Aquacraft Vela User guide

➧ NEVER attempt to swim after a

stalled R/C boat!.

➧ Never operate your R/C boat while

standing in the water.

➧ Never operate your R/C boat in the

presence of swimmers.

➧ Always use a Personal Flotation

Device (PFD) when boarding and
operating your retrieval craft,
i.e. Jon boat or duck boat. NOTE:
Because of the sharp running
hardware included with this R/C
boat, we do not recommend a
rubber blow up raft.

➧ R/C boat running hardware is very

sharp. Be very careful
when working on and around
the metal parts.

™

➧ AquaCraft products are to be used

by ages 14 and over.

aquacraftmodels.com

WARNING:

INTRODUCTION & DESCRIPTION CHANGES

WARRANTY SERVICE

Thank you for purchasing the AquaCraft™ Vela! We want the time you
spend with your new R/C boat to be fun and successful so please fully
read the manual. If for any reason you think this R/C model is not for
you, return it to your local hobby dealer immediately. Your hobby dealer
cannot accept returns on any model after  nal assembly or after your
boat has been operated.

All pictures, descriptions, and speci cations found in this instruction
manual are subject to change without notice. AquaCraft maintains no
responsibility for inadvertent errors in this manual.

FEATURES & SPECIFICATIONS

BOAT FEATURES:

Prepainted lightweight  berglass hull
Pre-assembled preprinted sails
Water-resistant radio hatch
Modern, 1-meter design
Tactic™ TTX410 2.4GHz two-stick surface radio system
Tactic TR325 2 Channel RX
Tactic TSX382 sail winch servo (installed)
AquaCraft TSX100 rudder servo (installed)
Pre nished wood boat cradle
Quick and easy  nal assembly

BOAT SPECIFICATIONS:

Boat Speci cations:
Hull Length: 40" [1016mm]
Beam: 6.5" [165mm]
Overall Height: 79" [2006mm]
Weight: 6lbs [2720g]

ITEMS REQUIRED

➧ Eight “AA” batteries
➧#2 Phillips® screwdriver
➧ 2.5mm hex wrench
➧ Grease (Grimracer cable grease, AQUB9500)

AquaCraft will warrant your Vela for 90 days after the purchase from
defects in materials or workmanship of original manufacture. AquaCraft,
at their option, will repair or replace at no charge, the incorrectly made
part. This warranty does not cover damage caused by crash, abuse,
misuse, alteration or accident. To return your boat for service you will
need to provide proof of purchase, i.e., your store receipt or product
invoice.

IN NO EVENT SHALL THE PURCHASER BE ENTITLED TO ANY
INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, INDIRECT OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES,
WHETHER RESULTING FROM THE USE, MISUSE OR INABILITY TO USE
THE PRODUCT OR FROM DEFECTS IN THE PRODUCT.

This warranty gives you speci c legal rights and you may also have other
rights, which vary from state to state. Outside USA and Canada, contact
local importer for warranty information.

Hobby Services

3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign, Illinois 61822

Attn: Service Department

Phone: [phone]:00 am - 5:00 pm Central Time M-F

E-mail: [e-mail]

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

➧ Never, ever, attempt to swim after a stalled R/C boat. DO NOT get

in the water for any reason to retrieve your boat. Your Vela has
 otation added to the interior of the hull and will not sink. To aid
you in retrieving a stalled R/C boat you can use a  shing reel with
a tennis ball tied to the end of the line. Or better yet get yourself a
small boat so you can row out and pick up your boat. Remember to
use a PFD any time you enter your retrieval craft.

➧ AquaCraft products are to be used by ages 14 and over.
➧ The speed and mass of this boat can in ict property damage and

severe personal injury if a collision occurs. Never run this boat in the
presence of swimmers or where the possibility of collision with people
or property exists.

➧ This boat is controlled by radio signals, which are susceptible to

possible interference from electrical noise.

➧ If your Vela should happen to loose signal, wind and water currents will

slowly carry it to shore. The bad news is that the boat could be carried
to the opposite shore. When surveying areas to run your model, keep
variables in mind such as wind direction, size of the lake, etc. It is not
advisable to run R/C boats on any free- owing bodies of water such
as creeks or rivers.

2

CRADLE ASSEMBLY

Begin by removing the sailboat components from the box
and assembling the boat stand. You’re going to need the
cradle to aid in the assembly and rigging of your Vela.

Use a #2 Phillips screwdriver and the M4X16
wood screws to assemble the cradle.

Take note that the support straps go over (not under) the top bars.

3

SAILBOAT TERMINOLOGY

BACKSTAY: A backstay is the line that runs from the top of the mast
to the stern of the boat. Like other stays, it is a strong wire, rod, or line
that is used to prevent the mast from being blown over. The backstay
is speci cally designed to prevent the mast from blowing forward.
Backstays sometimes have adjustable tension in order to shape the
mast (and consequently the sail) in varying wind conditions.

BOOM: A boom is a horizontal spar that is generally attached to the mast
at one end, and attached to the aft corner of a sail (the clew) at the other
end. The boom is used to hold the sail out in a horizontal direction.

BOW: The bow is the front of the boat.
BOWSIES: Adjustment blocks located between the tops of the sails and

the mast.
BOWSPRIT: The bowsprit is a spar that extends forward of the hull of a

boat. It can be used for a variety of things, including a more forward point
to attach a forestay and/or a sail such as a spinnaker or jib.

carbon  ber. The weight of a mast is extremely important because it
cancels out weight in the keel.

MASTHEAD: The top of the mast.
PORT: This is the left side of the boat when aboard and facing the front

(bow). An easy way to remember this is that port and left both contain
four letters.

RUDDER: Blade that turns the boat
STARBOARD: This is the right side of the boat when aboard and facing

the front (bow).

STERN: The back of a boat.
WEATHER AND LEE HELM: If the boat tends to turn windward, it’s called

weather helm. If the boat tends to turn away from the wind, it’s called
lee helm.

CLEAT: A cleat is a piece of hardware designed to hold a line. In the
most traditional sense, a cleat is a piece of metal or wood that is shaped
somewhat like an anvil. A special cleat knot is used to tie a line to these
traditional cleats.

DECK: The deck of a boat is the horizontal outside surface that one walks
upon. When you are outside on a boat, the deck is your  oor. When you
are in the cabin of a sailboat the deck is usually the ceiling above you.

FOOT: The foot of a sail is a reference to the bottom edge of a sail. The
forward corner of the foot is the tack, and the aft corner of the foot is
the clew.

FORESTAY: The stay that runs from the top of a mast to the bow of the
boat. As with other stays, a forestay is made from strong wire, rod, or
line, and is used to prevent the mast from being blown over. On some
sailboats, the forestay attaches to the mast slightly below the very top.
If this is the case, the sailboat is considered to have a "fractional rig". A
forestay may also be called a headstay.

HULL: The main structural outer skin of a boat. Most modern boats have
 berglass hulls.

JIB: The sail that goes forward of a mast. The leech of a jib generally
does not go any further aft than the position of the mast. If it is larger
than that, it is considered a genoa.

KEEL: The part of a boat's hull that extends below the waterline, on the
boat’s centerline, that is used to counterbalance the tendency of wind to
blow a sailboat over. A keel generally is shaped something like a  n, so
as to cut through the water and prevent sideways motion of the boat. It
also will always have weight at its lowest point to prevent the sailboat
from tipping over.

TYING BASIC KNOTS

BOWLINE KNOT:

FIGURE 8 KNOT:

SQUARE (OR "REEF") KNOT:

LUFF: The forward edge of a sail. The luff runs between the head of a sail
(at the top of a mast), to the tack of a sail (at the lower forward corner
of a sail).

MAINSAIL: The sail that is located aft of the mast on a sloop.
MAST: The vertical spars on boats. A mast is supported by stays so that it

does not blow over from the force of the sails. The purpose of the mast is
to provide the basic support for the system of sails. Masts were originally
made of wood, then aluminum, and now they are sometimes made of

4

JIB

BACKSTAY

MAST

MAINSAIL

BOW

DECK

BOOM

STERN

RUDDER

HULL

KEEL

5

SAILBOAT ASSEMBLY

Assemble the rudder, grease and a 2.5mm hex wrench. Remove

both hatches from the deck by turning the winch drums 90°.

Very lightly grease the rudder post and slip it up into the

rudder stuf ng tube located on the bottom of the boat. Align

the tiller arm so the rudder post is able to slide through.

Tighten the tiller arm screw using a 2.5 hex wrench. Make sure

you align the screw with the  at spot on the rudder post.

6

Remove the brass thumb nut from the keel post.

Slip the keel into the hole in the bottom of the hull.

Using the brass thumb nut, tighten the keel in place.

PERFORMANCE TIP:

If you are looking for the ultimate in performance and don’t foresee
the need to remove the keel, you can epoxy the keel into the
bottom of the boat as you assemble it. You can then very carefully
 ll and sand the area the keel around the attachment point to
keep drag to a minimum. The same  ll-and-sand procedure can
be done where the counterweight and keel attach as well as
around the screw bosses that hold the counterweight together.

7

Unroll the sails on your work table. The larger sail is

the mainsail and the smaller one is the jib.

Lay out the mast on your work table. You will notice there are two sections

of mast (upper and lower), along with pre-attached and labeled lines.

Slip the mast joiner into the lower mast. If you feel you have no

need to break down the mast, you can epoxy the halves together;

just remember you are not going to be able to take it back apart.

Place the lower mast into the mast pocket on the top deck

of the hull. You might want to lean the mast against a wall

or have somebody help you stabilize it as you work.

8

Undo the upper hook line of the jib sail and
hook it to front hole of the upper stay.

Attach the lower hook (A) of the jib boom onto the
furthest forward attachment point (A).

Match the letters and attach the side load strings B, C, D, and E,
as well as the backstay line (F). Snug up the blocks to hold the

mast upright. It’s not necessary
to make them tight at this time.

9

Next, slip the mainsail upper attachment line through

the hole near the center of the upper stay. Tie off the

line on the open cleat near the top of the mast.

Open the sail clips and clip the sail on to the mast.

Slip the lower mainsail attachment line through the open hole of the boom

mast mount. Tie off the line on the open cleat located above the mount.

10

Slip the rear sail line through the back hole of the boom
and tie off the line on the open cleat of the boom.

The longer of the winch lines attaches to the jib by
slipping the line through the guide on the jib boom
and tying off on the forward open cleat.

Attach the last of the winch lines to the mainsail by sliding the line
through the mast and tying it off on the open cleat on the main boom.

11

TRANSMITTER

Sail Control Stick

LED

On/Off Switch

Rudder
Control Stick

Rudder
Control Trim

Sail Control Trim

80°

°

30°

The transmitter is not water resistant and should never come in contact
with water.

80

Slide off the battery door on the back of the transmitter. Install 4 fresh “AA”
batteries into the transmitter in the con guration molded into the battery
compartment. Re-install the battery door onto the back of the transmitter.
Install 4 fresh “AA” batteries into the receiver battery holder.

80°

80°

4. Move the left stick to the full up position. The sails should now open to
80°. It might be necessary to adjust the full tight position again as both
of these adjustments are dependent on each other.

LAUNCH PROCEDURE

1. Turn “ON” the power to the transmitter and receiver (in that order).
Re-install the hatch covers and turn the winch drums to secure the
covers.

2. Gently place the boat in water that is at least 20" deep and free of
obstacles (weeds, rocks, sticks, etc.). The mast of the Vela sailboat
is NOT A HANDLE. Do not hold the boat by the mast.

3. When  nished running, be sure to turn the power “OFF” to the receiver
and transmitter (in that order).

4. When you are through sailing for the day, remove the keel and rudder
and allow them to dry.

12

Turn the transmitter on using the switch on the front. The red LED should
light up. If it does not light up, turn the transmitter off and check to make
sure that the batteries are installed properly. If you see a  ashing red
LED, the batteries are low and need to be replaced.

TRANSMITTER SETUP

1. Place the left transmitter stick in the center position. Turn on the
transmitter and then the receiver.

2. The large sail servo arm should center as well as the rudder. Move the
left stick to the lowest position for the next step.

3. With the left stick in the lowest position, reposition each sail such that
the sails’ control lines are tight. The mainsail and jib sail should now be
full in and tight.

OPERATION AND TUNING TIPS

Make sure your mast does not lean to the left or to the right. Adjust the
line blocks to adjust this.

For your  rst runs, make sure the main mast is straight front to back.
After you have some time on the boat, you can adjust for weather helm
and or lee helm. Adjust (lean) the mast forward to compensate for
weather helm. Adjust (lean) the mast rearward to compensate for lee
helm. Ultimately you want just a small amount of Weather helm during
your run.

30°

Adjust the rudder to provide 30° de ection to the right and left. You can
add or remove rudder de ection to your liking, but we have found 30°
to be about best.

SAILING

Unlike propeller-driven boats that you basically point and accelerate,
sailboats present an interesting challenge. Sailing requires constant
reaction to water movements, wind gusts and direction changes. These
reactions then require adjustment of the rudder and sails in order to  nd
the best possible course. In some cases, transmitter adjustments are
suf cient. At other times, it will be necessary to make physically adjust
the sails via the rigging lines. There is no substitute for actual “on-the­water” experience and after your  rst couple of outings you may want
to re-read this manual to help you to gain a better understanding of the
“art” of sailing. While learning to sail, it is a good idea to pick up on as
much sailing terminology as possible; this will make it easier to grasp
some aspects.

READING THE WIND

When you get to your favorite pond, take a few moments to observe
wind direction, speed, and frequency of gusts and adjust your sailboat’s
rigging as necessary. What follows are guidelines for tuning your ship’s

sails and rigging, but with experience you will gain the ability to  ne-tune
your sails and rigging for optimal performance, regardless of conditions.

➧ For light wind conditions (1-5 mph): Use the adjustment blocks

(bowsies) located between the tops of the sails and the masthead to
tighten the sails so they will respond to the slightest push from the
wind.

➧ For medium wind (6-10 mph): Loosen the sails slightly in order to

 nd the most ef cient combination of sail shape and tension. As a
rough guideline, you will want it somewhere in-between the light and
high wind set-up.

➧ For high wind conditions (11-15 mph): Loosen the jib and mainsail

further. They will be better able to handle the high winds and your hull
will be less likely to lay over on its side.

GETTING WHERE YOU NEED TO GO

Sailboats can easily sail downwind but sailing against the wind can be
quite challenging. In fact, sailboats cannot sail directly into the wind and
attempting to do so will leave you “in irons.” Sailboats can sail at up
to a 45° angle against the wind. Movement against the wind is known
as tacking. Take a moment to study the diagram at right as you read
through these de nitions.

PORT TACK

CLOSE-REACHED

PORT TACK

CLOSE-HAULED

IN IRONS

STARBOARD TACK

CLOSE-HAULED

BEAM REACH

BROAD REACH

BROAD REACH

DOWNWIND

BROAD REACH

STARBOARD TACK

CLOSE-REACHED

BROAD REACH

BEAM REACH

13

➧ Downwind: Sailing with the wind coming from stern (a.k.a. running

and sailing free).

➧ In Irons: A sailboat is said to be “in irons” when the boat stalls with its

bow pointed directly into the wind and no wind in the sails. If you  nd
yourself in this position, simply move the rudder stick to either side
and hold it until the sails catch some air. You will need to adjust the
tension on the sails with the sail control stick to get the boat moving.
Release the rudder when the ship reaches the desired heading.

➧ Luf ng: When the sails are unable to  ll with wind and begin  apping

wildly (like a  ag).

➧ Tacking: Sailing towards the wind in a series of maneuvers diagonal to

the wind source. There are basically two tacking directions. Starboard
tack occurs when the wind comes from starboard and the sail boom
hangs over the port side. Port tack is just the opposite, with the wind
coming from port with the sail boom hanging over the starboard side.

There are varying degrees of tack angle and it is important to learn

when each will be useful and how to get your sailboat into position,
especially when racing. For instance, when trying to reach a speci c
position upwind, sailing close-hauled may be the most direct route.
Sailing close-reached allows you to get upwind faster, but is not as
direct. In any case, you basically want the sails to be full of air and just
on the verge of luf ng. Here are some terms that describe different
sailing positions in relation to the wind:

➧ Total run time of the Vela sailboat is approximately 45-60 minutes

(assuming you begin with new batteries in the receiver box). When
you notice a decrease in power or sluggish response, it means the
batteries are nearly drained and it’s time to head for shore. As soon
as the boat reaches shore, turn off the power to the receiver and
transmitter (in that order).

MAINTENANCE

Make sure you replace low batteries. Leave the hatch covers off
overnight to allow any water to evaporate from the inside of the hull.
Clean the exterior of the hull with standard household cleaners and
check for any loose knots or screws.

NATIONAL ORGANIZATION

The American Model Yachting Association is a not-for-pro t organization
dedicated to promoting the designing, building, racing, and preservation
of all model sailing yachts, and membership is open to all who are
interested in these activities.

theamya.org

➧ Close-Hauled: Sailing against the wind at (up to) 45° angles.

➧ Close-Reached:

➧ Beam Reach:

➧ Broad Reach: Sailing with the wind coming diagonally from behind

(a.k.a. sailing large or quartering wind).

PLEASE READ BEFORE RUNNING THE VELA SAILBOAT:

➧ NEVER attempt to swim after a stalled or stuck boat! Wait patiently

for the wind currents to return the boat to shore or use a tennis ball
attached to the end of a  shing line to retrieve it.

➧ Sailing the Vela in winds over 15 mph is not advised.

➧ It is dangerous to operate any R/C vehicle when there is insuf cient

light.

➧ CAUTION: Windy conditions cause rough water that will affect the

performance of your sailboat and increase the chances of taking on water.

➧ Your Vela sailboat may occasionally take on small amounts of water,

especially when running in high winds or rough water, or making tight
turns. Keep a roll of paper towels handy and dry out the hull interior
after every run. Check for leaks if you notice excessive amounts of
water in the hull.

➧ IMPORTANT: If, for whatever reason, your boat takes on a large amount

of water causing the electronics to get wet, you must do the following
immediately: Remove the radio equipment from the boat. Allow the
components to air dry completely before reassembling. Reinstall the
components and check for proper operation before running the boat
in water.

Sailing against the wind at a much shallower angle.

Sailing with the boat at about a 90° angle to the wind.

REPLACEMENT PARTS

To order replacement parts for the AquaCraft Vela use the stock numbers
in the list below. Replacement parts may be purchased from your local
hobby shop or by mail order. If you need help locating a dealer, visit
aquacraftmodels.com and click on “Where to Buy”. If you are missing
parts, contact AquaCraft Product Support at:

Phone: [phone]

Fax: [phone]

E-mail: [e-mail]

AQUB6403 Deck Guides and Rigging Cleats
AQUB6490 Jib Support with Tie Rod
AQUB7110 Sailboat Stand
AQUB7500 Keel
AQUB7501 Keel and Bulb Thumb Nuts
AQUB7502 Keel Bulb with Weight
AQUB7825 Main Mast with Blocks
AQUB7826 Main and Jib Sail
AQUB7827 Mast Head
AQUB7828 Main and Jib Boom with Blocks
AQUB8660 Rigging Line 12-Meters
AQUB8661 Rigging Line Adjuster Blocks
AQUB8662 Rigging Line Clips
AQUB8750 Rudder
AQUB8751 Rudder Control Arm
AQUB8802 Spreaders
AQUB8820 Sail Clips
TACJ2410 Tactic TTX410 4-Channel TR625 SLT System
TACL0325 Tactic TR325 3-Channel Receiver

14

15

© 2015 AquaCraft Models, a Hobbico® company.

AQUB0201