Thank you for purchasing the AquaCraft Revolt. We at AquaCraft
want the time you spend with your boat to be safe, fun and
successful. If for any reason you feel this R/C model is not for
you return it to your place of purchase immediately. Your hobby
dealer cannot accept returns on any model after fi nal assembly
or after your boat has been operated.
AquaCraft products are to be used by ages 14 and over.
All pictures, descriptions, and specifi cations found in this instruction
manual are subject to change without notice. AquaCraft maintains
no responsibility for inadvertent errors in this manual.
INCLUDED WITH YOUR BOAT:
Revolt FE Mono
Tactic™ TTX240 2.4GHz Transmitter (Performance 2.4GHz Version Only)
ABS Molded Boat Stand
PARTS AND TOOLS NEEDED
TO COMPLETE AND WORK
ON YOUR MODEL:
Radio system of your choice (Receiver Ready) Rx-R™ Version
4 – AA Batteries (FUGP7300 Fuji AA batteries)
LiPo Battery pack/s (See Option Parts below)
LiPo battery Charger (See Option Parts below)
Tools and supplies available from
your local Hobby Dealer:
Hook and Loop (GPMQ4480 Great Planes® Hook and Loop)
Tools and supplies available from your
local hardware or home store.
10mm open end wrench
12mm open end wrench
Water displacer (WD-40®, CRC 6-56® or Corrosion X®)
Paper Towel
OPTION PARTS:
AQUB9768 L45x68 2-Bladed Prop (This prop has great
acceleration as well as top speed.)
AQUB9514 GrimRacer Pro Radio Box Tape
AQUB6322 GrimRacer Decal Set (Let ‘em know you’re ready to
race!)
GPMP0751 SafeCharge LiPo bag
Batteries and Chargers:
For your convenience we have listed below a few different battery
and charger options. It is also important to note that chargers
come in both DC and AC/DC versions. DC chargers require a 12V
power supply like a 12V car battery or bench top power supply
to power up the charger. AC/DC chargers allow you to plug the
charger into a 120V house outlet or DC power supply, therefore
making them more convenient for most charging situations.
Option 1: This is the easiest option.
Two (2) AQUB9825 GrimRacer LiPo 2S 7.4V 4200mAh 30C
OR
Two (2) AQUB9834 GrimRacer LiPo 2S 7.4V 5000mAh 40C
and
One (1) DTXP4245 Onyx™ 245 AC/DC Dual Charger W/Balancer
Option 2: More advanced but allows slightly better boat
handling
One (1) AQUB9830 GrimRacer LiPo 2S 14.8V 4200mAh 30C
OR
One (1) AQUB9840 GrimRacer LiPo 2S 14.8V 5000mAh 40C
and
One (1) GPMM3155 Great Planes ElectriFly® Triton™ EQ AC/DC
Battery Charger
NOTE: When using a single 4S pack, you must reconfi gure
the current connector system. We will show you how in the
ASSEMBLY section of this manual.
WARRANTY SERVICE:
AquaCraft will warrant your Revolt for 90 days after the purchase
from defects in materials or workmanship of original manufacture.
AquaCraft, at their option, will repair or replace at no charge,
the incorrectly made part. This warranty does not cover damage
caused by crash, abuse, misuse, alteration or accident. To return
your boat for service you need to provide proof of purchase. Your
store receipt or product invoice will suffi ce. IN NO EVENT SHALL
THE PURCHASER BE ENTITLED TO ANY INCIDENTAL,
SPECIAL, INDIRECT OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES,
WHETHER RESULTING FROM THE USE, MISUSE OR
INABILITY TO USE THE PRODUCT OR FROM DEFECTS IN
THE PRODUCT. This warranty gives you specifi c legal rights and
you may also have other rights, which vary from state to state.
Outside USA and Canada, contact local importer for warranty
information.
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Attn: Service Department
Phone: (217) 398-0007 9:00 am - 5:00 pm Central Time M-F
E-mail: hobbyservices@hobbico.com
2
SAFETY PRECUATIONS:
Never, ever attempt to swim after a stalled RC boat. DO NOT
get in the water for any reason to retrieve your boat. Your
Revolt has fl otation added to the interior of the hull and the
cowl. They will not sink. To aid you in retrieving a stalled RC
boat you can use a fi shing reel with a tennis ball tied to the
end of the line. Or better yet, get yourself a small Jon boat so
you can row out and pick up your boat. Remember to use a
PFD any time you enter your retrieval craft.
Do not touch the propeller anytime the motor is running. Pay
equally close attention to items such as loose clothing,
shirtsleeves, ties, scarves, long hair or anything that may
become entangled in the spinning prop. If your fi ngers,
hands, etc. come in contact with the spinning propeller, you
may be severely injured.
The speed and mass of this boat can infl ict property damage
and severe personal injury if a collision occurs. Never run
this boat in the presence of swimmers or where the possibility
of collision with people or property exists.
This boat is controlled by radio signals, which are susceptible
to possible interference from RF sources. It is a good idea to
pre-check the system to make sure it’s operating properly
before you launch your boat.
If your boat should happen to stall, water currents will slowly
carry it to shore. The bad news is the boat could be carried
to the opposite shore. When surveying areas to run your
model, keep variables in mind such as wind direction, size of
the lake, etc. It is not advisable to run R/C boats on any freefl owing bodies of water such as creeks or rivers.
Hand laid fi berglass hull and canopy
Roomy interior
Tactic 2.4GHz radio system (Performance 2.4GHz Version Only)
AquaCraft 1800 KV 6 pole motor
AquaCraft 60amp Motor Controller
Aluminum water jackets on both the motor and controller
New high-performance 25-35 GrimRacer boat hardware
Battery tray accepts many battery mounting confi gurations
Hook and loop battery mounting
Other outstanding features include:
High gloss painted fi nish
Pre-applied graphics
Brass stuffi ng tube
Low friction cable guide
.150” fl ex drive cable
Industry standard 3/16” (.187”) prop shaft
GrimRacer 42x55 Metal Propeller
Notes about using LiPo batteries in your boat: The Revolt uses
the AquaCraft 60amp motor controller. This controller has a built
in stutter bump system that cycles the power to the motor when
the battery voltage reaches 12V. This is designed to warn you of
impending low battery voltage and subsequent shut down. It also
has a 10.8V battery cut off safety system that shuts the power
down to the motor to avoid damaging the batteries.
Having said this, as a rule of thumb we have found it best in very
high current draw application like an RC boat, to not to use more
than 70% of the rated capacity of the battery pack, per run. We
have also found that when in doubt and using the recommended
propellers you can expect to use about 1000mAh (give or take)
per minute of operation. Using this you can better judge your
runs knowing you’re taking the very best care of your battery
pack investment.
GrimRacer says: It’s best to test this by making a timed
2 min run. Then charge the batteries back up and note the
amount of mAh the pack allowed back in. Do this each and
every time you make a prop change or any other signifi cant
change to your setup. Then adjust your driving time so you don’t
go over the 70% usage mark.
Also keep in mind that RC car packs (hard case) could be used.
But if you get them wet, they can store water, causing the internal
metal parts of the pack to corrode, and in turn causing short pack
life. We highly recommend using dedicated marine LiPo packs
like those in the GrimRacer Line.
3
RECEIVER READY (Rx-R) ASSEMBLY:
™
Here are a few great radios to choose from for your receiver
ready (Rx-R) Revolt.
Tactic TX240 (TACJ0245): The TX240 radio system is reliable
and easy to operate. It’s basic but has all the necessary features
to operate your Revolt.
Futaba 3PMS (FUTK2021): This radio system is very reliable
and offers more operator options. We really like the timer option
this radio system offers as well as the multi-model memory.
Futaba 4PL (FUTK1400): Along with great reliability, this radio
system offers the most user options. It’s also a great system if
you want to add to your AquaCraft boat collection. This system
offers 40 model memory and 10 character naming; great features
to grow your boat lineup.
NOTE: This step will require working on the boat with the radio
turned on and power to the motor. To prevent any possible injury,
temporarily remove the propeller from the boat.
1. Mount your receiver in your boat by installing hook and loop
to the bottom of your receiver. Install the receiver in the position
shown in the picture.
2. Plug the steering servo into channel 1 and the motor
controller into channel 2.
TURN ON YOUR TRANSMITTER.
Set the Throttle Trim to negative (clockwise if you have a dial)
25%.
If your radio has end point adjustments, check to see that your
(EPA) is set to 100% both forward and reverse throttle trigger.
Then plug the batteries into the motor controller. At this time you
will hear one beep letting you know battery power is working to
the controller. To arm the system, squeeze the throttle trigger
fully and hold until you hear one more beep. Release the throttle
trigger and you will hear three more beeps. Your boat is now
ready to operate.
Note: You will have to go through this simple arming procedure
each time to run your boat.
If your boat does not beep after plugging in the batteries, adjust
your throttle trim lower “a lesser percentage” until you hear the
boat beep. Then continue the arming process.
2
%
Squeeze the throttle trigger and hold
6
)
%
7
Your boat is now ready to operate!
Plug in the packs
Release the trigger
«Beep»
« Beep»
« Beep- Beep -Beep»
NOTE:
consecutive beeps, your throttle trim will likely need to be reversed.
Before or after the above, IF your boat’s power system emits
4
START UP AND OPERATION:
4 x “AA”
LED
IMPORTANT:
Your Revolt is a true racing boat. In our quest to provide you with
the very best performance, we feel it is important to remind you
that the water pickup that cools the electronics is located on the
left side of the rudder blade. The reason it is mounted on the
left is, in RC boat racing we take advantage of prop torque and
turn left on the racing circuit (“typically this is an oval course”).
CAUTION: Constantly turning right can cause a loss of cooling
to the electronics and should be avoided.
1. If you have the Performance 2.4GHz version, install 4 “AA”
batteries into the transmitter using the installation pattern molded
into the bottom of the battery tray. Turn on the transmitter, making
sure it’s working by viewing the LED on the front. The LED should
glow bright red.
At this time you will hear one beep. To arm the system, squeeze
the throttle trigger and hold until you hear one more beep.
Release the throttle trigger and you will hear three more beeps.
Your boat is now ready to operate. Note: You will have to go
though this simple arming procedure each time to run your boat.
If your boat does not beep after plugging in the batteries, slowly
turn the throttle trim knob lower “a lesser percentage” until you
hear the boat beep. Then continue the arming process.
2
%
Squeeze the throttle trigger and hold
6
)
%
7
Now is a good time to check the rotation of the prop. Power the
system back up, arm it and quickly squeeze the throttle trigger
and check the direction of the motor. It should spin the propeller
counterclockwise when viewing the boat from the back. If the
motor spins the wrong way, simply switch any two of the three
wires between the motor and the controller. WARNING: Do not
hold the throttle down for more than one or two seconds to check
the motor direction or you might risk damaging the motor. Also
check the steering direction. When you turn the wheel to the right
the back of the rudder blade should also move to the right.
Install the cowl and tape in place. You are now ready to run the
boat.
After you have completed your run, bring the boat in, un-tape
and unplug the batteries. Be careful as electronic parts can
become very hot during operation. Allow the electronics to
cool before running the boat again.
Your boat is now ready to operate!
Plug in the packs
Release the trigger
«Beep»
« Beep»
« Beep- Beep -Beep»
2. Remove the canopy and install the batteries, making sure
they are well strapped in and seated.
3. Plug the batteries into the motor controller and you’re ready
to arm the system.
TIPS AND NOTES:
The handling and performance of your Revolt can be disrupted
by the smallest obstructions in the water. If you happen to pick
up a small duck feather or leaf, the power system could draw
more current than the motor controller is capable of handling;
the performance of the boat will be compromised and you could
damage the motor, ESC or batteries. Please make sure the water
you are running in is clear or obstructions.
It’s also important to note that if you operate the boat for extended
periods of time at less than full throttle, you could overheat the
motor controller. Be mindful of this as you operate the boat.
5
TROUBLESHOOTING:
No signal between the transmitter and
the boat (Performance 2.4GHz version):
Check to make sure the transmitter is bound to the receiver. To
bind: With the transmitter turned on and the batteries plugged
into the boat, press and hold the bind button on the top of the
receiver (use a tooth pick or other small pointed object) for
approximately 4 seconds or until the system binds. You will know
it is bound when the small LED hidden behind the face of the
receiver stops fl ashing and stays lit.
Boat runs backwards:
Switch any two of the three motor wires.
Motor Controller will not arm:
Move the throttle trim knob slowly clockwise (or a lesser
percentage) to adjust the center point of the throttle system.
Boat is slow to take off:
First make sure the cable coupler is tight. If it’s OK, try being
more aggressive with the throttle during the launch or toss the
boat forward with more force, applying power as the boat touches
the water.
Boat slows down or shuts off in the middle of a run:
Check for weeds on the prop or any obstruction blocking the
water cooling pick up.
HOW TO UPDATE YOUR BOAT TO USE
A SINGLE 4S BATTERY PACK:
This is a little more advanced so if you are not comfortable
making the changes below, DO NOT ATTEMPT this until you
have more experience. The advantages, however, are worth the
extra work. We are going to show you a few ways to do this.
We are going to show you three options for how to update your
boat to use a single 4S pack. The advantages to a single 4S pack
are a lower roll center in the boat. NOTE: Extreme care must be
used when changing and using different connectors in your boat.
Start by unplugging the motor from the controller. Also remove
the radio lead from the receiver. Remove the Motor Controller
from the boat. NOTE: You do not need to remove the controller if
following Option 1.
OPTION 1 (Easiest and still allows
the use of two 2S packs):
Tools and supplies needed are:
After a run the motor, batteries and or motor controller are very hot:
Check to make sure the water pickup is not plugged. Check
to see that the prop is not bent or that you have changed to a
propeller that is too large for the power system.
1 female Deans® connector
1 short length of 12 or 14 gauge wire
1 length of large shrink tubing
Soldering Iron (TrakPower™ TK950, TKPR0950)
Solder, (TrakPower Lead Free Solder, TKPR0975)
Hobby knife
Wire cutters
Lighter or heat gun
1. Begin by tinning (pre-applying) solder to both the positive and
negative solder tabs on the Deans connector; also remove about
3/4" of insulation off one end of the length of wire and tin the
exposed wire as well.
6
2. Solder the wire across the two solder tabs, creating a bridge
between the two tabs. Use your side cutters to remove the
excess wire.
OPTION 2 (Simple to do but would
require you to make an adaptor
to again use two 2S packs):
Tools and supplies needed are:
1 length of medium shrink tubing
Soldering Iron, (TrakPower TK950 (TKPR0950)
Solder, (TrakPower Lead Free Solder (TKPR0975)
Hobby knife
Lighter or heat gun
3. Cut the shrink tube to around 1" long and place over the
connecter and exposed solder work. Shrink the tubing and with
the tube still warm pinch the end closed.
4. To use this system simply plug the adaptor into one of the
two battery leads coming from the controller. When you plug the
battery pack into the open connector the system will power up.
1. Start by removing the shrink tube from end of the black wire
leading from the controller as well as the shrink tube leading
from the black harness wire.
2. Next, un-solder the two wires leads you just exposed. Slide
a length of shrink tubing over the black wire leading from the
controller and solder the lead to the open tab of the still remaining
connector. Slide the shrink tube in place and heat to shrink. Your
system is now ready to use.
7
OPTION 3 (The most advanced but
allows the best contact between
the controller and battery pack):
Tools and supplies needed are:
5.5mm Bullet connectors (Castle Creations, CSEH0002)
Soldering Iron, (TrakPower TK950, TKPR0950)
Solder, (TrakPower Lead Free Solder, TKPR0975)
Hobby knife
Wire cutters
Shrink tubing (yellow)
6" length of large fuel tubing
Lighter or heat gun
2. Cut two lengths of fuel tubing 1/2" (12mm) long and slip one
over the end of each wire leading from the controller. Strip away
3/8" (10mm) of insulation from the end of each wire.
NOTE:
red connectors for 5.5mm gold
bullet connectors. If you are not
willing to follow proper procedure
you could damage your battery
or boat. Please do not go forward
with this update if you are not
comfortable soldering or are
not willing to follow the below
procedure. Also, you are also going
to need to make a charging lead
to charge this battery connector
confi guration like the one shown
Let’s get started:
We will be changing the
.
3. Tin the inside of one each male and female bullet connector
as well as the end of each wire. The male connector will be
soldered to the red wire (positive +) and the female connector
will be soldered to the black wire (negative –). Keep in mind as
we do this that order will be reversed on the battery pack.
Carefully reheat the solder in the connector and place the wire
end into the heated solder. Keep a little heat on the two to make
sure the pre-tinned wire has also liquefi ed. Remove the heat; do
not disturb as the parts cool. CAUTION: The wire can get very
hot, making it hard to hold onto. I like to use a clothespin to hold
the wire as I work. I also use a block of wood with a 9/32" hole
drilled in it to hold the connector as I solder, simple and effective.
1.
One inch from the connector cut both the black and red wires
leading from the controller. Do not cut the black jumper wire between
the connectors. Set this part aside as it can be used to make an
adaptor if you solder corresponding bullets to the cut wires.
4. Slide the fuel tubing up to the connector. Cut the shrink
tubing so it’s just a little longer than the fuel tubing plus large
diameter of the connector. Heat the shrink tubing to complete the
update to the controller.
8
We are going to update the battery pack the same way BUT...
Two 2S packs side by side.
Remove the foam to lower
battery placement.
Two 2S packs
stacked.
One 4S pack.
we are going to cut and change one connector at a time
starting with the red (positive wire).
5. Clip the red wire close to the connector. Strip back around
3/8" (10mm) wire insulation.
6. Tin a female bullet connector as well as the exposed wire.
7. Carefully re-heat the solder in the connector and place the
wire end into the solder. Keep heat on the two to make sure the
pre-tinned wire has also liquefi ed. Remove the heat and do not
disturb. Allow the parts to cool.
8. Cut the shrink tubing so it’s just a little longer than the
connector. Heat the shrink tubing to complete the update to the
positive battery wire.
9. Repeat this step using a male connector on the black
(negative wire) of the battery.
Here are the battery confi gurations the Revolt allows. It’s a
good idea to use plenty of hook and loop to help hold the
batteries in place.
Two 2S packs side by side.
IMPORTANT!: RECHECK ALL YOUR WORK TO MAKE SURE
YOU HAVE PROPERLY MATCHED THE CONNECTORS FROM
THE CONTROLLER TO THE BATTERY PACK.
10.
Cut a 3/4" long length of fuel tubing and slide it over the end
of the connector of the back battery connector. NOW, WHEN THE
BATTERY IS NOT IN USE, ALWAYS STORE AND KEEP THIS
TUBING OVER THE CONNECTOR. DO NOT REMOVE THE TUBING
FOR ANY REASON EXCEPT CHARGING AND OPERATING.
WARNING: NEVER, EVER PLUG THE BATTERY POSITIVE
CONNECTOR INTO THE BATTERY NEGATIVE CONNECTOR!
Remove the foam to lower
battery placement.
Two 2S packs
stacked.
One 4S pack.
9
SHAFT AND MOTOR MAINTENANCE:
After each day of operation we feel it’s best to remove the motor
and fl ush it out with a moisture displacer and re-oil the bearings.
You are going to need the following tools and supplies.
GrimRacer Cable Grease
12mm open end wrench
10mm open end wrench
#2 Phillips Screwdriver
Water displacer
Bearing oil
Paper Towel
1. Start by removing the water lines to the motor jacket. Also
unplug the three connector leads to the motor.
4. Use a #2 Phillips Screwdriver to remove the 4 motor pad
screws.
2. Use the 12mm and 10mm wrenches to loosen the cable
coupler from the cable. To do so hold the 12mm wrench still and
rotate the 10mm wrench counterclockwise.
3. Fully loosen the coupler and fi rmly pull the prop and shaft
away from the coupler.
5. Place the motor in a rag or paper towel and spray a water
displacer into the fi ttings on the water jacket as well as in the
motor itself. After the motor is “pickled,” wipe it down and reinstall
it in the boat using the above instructions in reverse order.
10
After each fi ve or so runs and or after a day of running it’s a
good idea to relubricate the drive cable. Here are the tools and
supplies you need to complete the task.
10mm open end wrench
12mm open end wrench
AquaCraft GrimRacer Speed Grease
Paper towel
6. Loosen the cable coupler using the 10 and 12mm wrenches.
7. Firmly pull the prop and drive shaft out of the back of the
boat. Now is a good time to inspect the bushing for excess wear.
8. Wipe away any old grease and water. Apply new speed
grease to the shaft and slide it back into the strut, moving it in
and out as you do so to help spread the grease along the length
of the cable.
TUNING TIPS AND PROP INFO:
“The Business End of the Boat”
Strut: Tilting the strut down or lowering it tightens the ride of the
boat. A “tighter ride” will help stabilize the boat but at the risk of
more power consumption as well as a loss of speed. It’s also
important to note that this “tight ride” could cause the ESC and
or motor to overheat. Tilting the strut up or raising it loosens the
boat ride. This looser ride allows the boat to go faster but at the
risk of a blow off (the boat lifting off the water). It’s best to make
small strut adjustments and only make one small change at a
time.
Rudder:
important aspect is how sharp it is or you make it. Using a fl at fi le,
sharpen the leading edge of the rudder fi nishing with 400 grit, then
600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. You can also gain some performance
if you remove the lift the rudder makes off the bottom of the blade.
You can either round or sharpen the bottom of the blade as either
method works. Another important aspect is the angle front to
back of the rudder blade. Tilting the rudder back and forth also
changes the way the boat operates. Tilting the rudder under the
boat tightens the ride while tilting it back loosens it.
CG: Adjusting the CG or center of gravity of the boat has a lot to
do with how tight the boat rides as well as the how the boat “fl ies”
as it enters and exits the water. Moving the battery packs forward
or rearward is the best way to adjust the CG.
The rudder can be tuned in a variety of ways. The most
9. Before tightening the cable coupler make sure to leave a 4 or
5mm distance between the back of the strut and the front of the
drive dog. This will keep the drive system from binding or breaking
as the cable operates. Tighten the cable coupler, reversing the
direction of the open end wrenches. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
NOTE: The drive cable is supported by the brass stuffi ng tube
which has a low friction liner. The prop shaft (or “stub shaft”) is
hard-soldered to the fl exible drive cable and spins in a brass
bushing located in the back of the stuffi ng tube. The bushing and
liner should be replaced when they start to show wear.
AQUB7884 Prop Shaft Bushing
AQUB7869 .150” Cable Liner 10” (cut to length as needed)
At the end of the day make sure to leave the cowl off and the drain
plug out overnight. This will allow any moisture that collected in
the boat to safely evaporate.
Scuffi ng: Scuffi ng is a tuning trick boat racers use to increase
the speed of their boat. Scuffi ng involves dulling the area/s of the
boat that touch the water as the boat is running. We like to use
a red scratch pad like the ones you fi nd in the paint section of
your local home supply store. Scuff the bottom of the boat to the
point the shine is removed from the paint. While this tuning trick
is mostly geared towards the hard core boat racer, sport runners
can benefi t from this as well. WARNING: GrimRacer says if you
scuff the boat and don’t like the way it looks, don’t come running
back to me for a new hull. I’m just trying to help you win some
races so don’t shoot the messenger! Now let’s go racing!
Props: About the best we can do is help guide you to a better
performing prop. Ultimately how you drive and tune your boat
will determine the best prop for your racing program. Having
said that, we have found the GrimRacer 42x55 (AQUB9725) is
about the best overall prop for your Revolt. It is also advisable
that you balance your propeller when it is new and check it for
balance periodically. If you want to learn more about tuning props
check out some of the How to Balance Your Propeller link at
aquacraftmodels.com.
11
RACING:
Your Revolt was designed to fi t into boat IMPBA and NAMBA P class racing. What you will fi nd is power systems designed for this
boat and others like it making their own class called P-Spec. This boat fi ts into the P-Spec Mono racing class. Check the websites
listed below for information and places to race your Revolt.