A.O. Smith TC-049R3 User Manual

Residential
Gas and Electric
Water Heaters
M O D E L S C O V E R E D
Residential Gas Water Heaters that
are atmospherically vented and use a
thermocouple as their electrical source.
Residential Electric Water Heaters
having one or two heating elements
and common wiring configurations
for these models.
Part No. TC-049R3 • $15.00 • Printed in the U.S.A. • 0505
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
Introduction
Terms.................................................. 1
Tools ................................................... 2
Residential Gas Water Heaters
General Information ............................ 3
Installation........................................... 5
Operations and Servicing
Control................................................. 6
Burner ................................................. 7
Normal Operations .............................. 7
Temperature........................................ 8
Gas...................................................... 8
Water Flow.......................................... 9
Service .............................................. 10
Procedures and Conditions............... 11
Multiple Heater Piping....................... 14
Exhaust Venting Notes...................... 15
Flammable Vapor Ignition Design ……15
Lint, Dust & Oil Screen……………... 16
Flame Arrestor………………………...17 Thermal Cut Off Switch………….…...18 Pilot Burner Assembly……………..….19
Sealed Combustion Chamber………..20 Piezo Igniter…………………………….21
Miscellaneous ……………………….....22
Page
Residential Electric Water Heaters
Installation………………………………23 Standard Illustrations………………….24 Guidelines………………………………25 Elements………………………………..26
Thermostat….…………………….…..27 C-2 Circuit…………………………….28 C-2 Sequence of Operation…………29 A-6 Circuit……………………………..30 A-6 Sequence of Operation…….…..31 A-7 Circuit…………………………….32 A-7 Sequence of Operation…….……33 A-7 – wiring – Post 1995………...… 34 A-7 - Sequence of Operation ……….35 Certification and Approvals….……….36 Unbalanced 3 phase……………….…37 C-2 Ohms Check……………………...38 C-2 Ohms Check…………….………..39 C2 No Hot Water……………….……..40 C-2 Grounded Element Check………41 A-6 Ohms Check – No Hot Water…..42 A-6 No Hot Water Voltage Check…..43 A-6 Lack of Hot Water Voltage Ck….44 A-6 Grounded Element Test………...45 A-7 Service……………………………46 A-7 Ohms Test……………………….47 A-7 Voltage Checks………………….48 A-7 Lack of Hot ………………………49 A-7 Grounded Element Test………50-51 Miscellaneous and Ohms Table.……52
Technical Bulletins …………….. 53-66
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC SERVICE HANDBOOK INTRODUCTION
This service handbook is designed to aid in servicing and troubleshooting A.O. Smith Residential Gas and Electric water heaters in the field. No duplication or reproduction of this book may be made without the express written authorization of the A.O. Smith Water Products Company.
The following text and illustrations will provide you with a step-by-step procedure to verify proper installation, operation, and troubleshooting procedures. Additional quick reference data is included to assist you in servicing this product.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
The information contained in this handbook is designed to answer commonly faced situations encountered in the operation of the Residential Gas and Electric product line and is not meant to be all-inclusive. If you are experiencing a problem not covered in this handbook, please contact the A.O. Smith Technical Information Center at 1-800-527-1953 or your local A.O. Smith Water Products Company representative for further assistance. Additional information is also available on the web site
www.aosmithwaterheaters.com. This handbook is intended for use by
licensed plumbing professionals and reference should be made to the instructional manual accompanying the product. This handbook contains supplemental information to the Residential Gas and Electric instructional manual.
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Qualifications Tools Required: For servicing gas models:
Cross top screw driver 3/8, 7/16, ¾ inch open end wrenches 3/16 inch Allen wrench 11/16 inch – 6 point – socket – for anode removal set of marked drill bits electrical multimeter gas pressure gauge or monometer water pressure gauge thermometer tubing cutter if pilot tube is to be replaced hose – to drain tank container – to measure gallons per minute flow
For servicing electric models:
1 1/16 inch – 6 point – socket (for anode removal) 1 ½ inch deep socket – to remove an element electrical multimeter water pressure gauge thermometer hose – to drain tank
container – to measure gallons per minute flow
Rev 1 adds Technical Bulletins Rev 2 corrects illustration errors Rev 3 adds FVIR (C3) Technology product information 2005 printing – revised cover
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
GENERAL SECTION
MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION
Draw efficiency is the quantity of hot water available to the consumer before the outlet water
temperature decreases 25 degrees F. A 40 gallon water heater will typically provide 70% (28 gallons) of this “usable” hot water. The burner or elements are allowed to operate during this test. Incoming, cold water mixes the remaining stored water below this 25 degree limitation.
Energy Factor is an indicator of the combined thermal efficiency and standby efficiency of a
water heater. The higher the energy factor, the more efficient the water heater will be.
Recovery rate is the amount of water that is heated to a set temperature, per hour. An example
might be that a water heater has a recovery rate of 30 gallons of water per hour at 80 degree F. (Fahrenheit) temperature rise.
“R” Value is a measure of the resistance of a substance to heat flow.
Thermal efficiency is approximately the amount of generated BTU (British Thermal Units),
which enters the water. A percentage of the total BTU passes out through the vent piping.
Temperature rise
the desired hot (outlet) setting. Typically this is assumed to be 40 degrees entering water, 120 degrees desired stored water or 80 degrees “temperature rise.”
is the increase in the temperature from its coldest “inlet” water temperature to
Standby efficiency – the water heater’s ability to contain heat in the tank. A minimum of tank
water heat loss per hour is desired. Sample: “R” value
temperature change = Btu/h loss/ square foot of tank surface
Water cannot (for all practical purposes) be compressed. Water expands when it is heated.
Water Hammer – is a concussion of moving water against the sides of a containing pipe or vessel
on a sudden stoppage of flow. EX: 1/2 “copper pipe, 5GPM flow (7.2ft/sec.) – stop. Pressure rise of approximately 412 PSI. 3/4” copper pipe, 5GPM flow (3.3ft/sec) – stop. Pressure rise of approximately 188 PSI
Minerals and gases will separate from water as temperature increases. Formulas:
BTU (British Thermal Unit)
1 BTU = 252 cal = 0.252 kcal 1 cal = 4.187 Joules BTU X 1.055 = Kilo Joules
BTU divided by 3,413 = Kilowatts
is the heat required to raise 1 pound of water 1F
To convert from Fahrenheit to Centigrade: (° F – 32) times 5/9, or .556, equals degrees C.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
One gallon of (120 F, 49C) water weighs approximately 8.25 pounds.
Pounds X .45359 = Kilogram Gallons X 3.7854 = Liters
% of Hot = (Mixed Temp. – Cold) divided by (Hot Temp. – Cold)
General Section – continued
% Thermal Efficiency = (GPH X 8.25 X Temp. Rise X 1.0) divided by BTU/H Input BTU Output = GPH X 8.25 X Temp. Rise X 1.0 GPH = (BTU/H Input X % Eff.) divided by (Temp. Rise X 8.25) One cubic foot of Natural Gas contains about 1000 BTU of heat. One “therm is equal to 100,000 BTU One cubic foot of Propane Gas contains about 2500 BTU of heat. One gallon of Propane gas contains about 91,250 BTU of heat.
One pound
of Propane gas contains about 21,600 BTU of heat.
One pound of gas pressure is equal to 27.7 inches water column pressure
Inches of Water Column X .036091 = PSI
Inches of Water Column X .073483 = Inches of Mercury (Hg.)
Centimeters = Inches X 2.54 MM (millimeters) =Inches X 25.4 Meters = Inches X .0254
Doubling the diameter of a pipe will increase its flow capacity (approximately) 5.3 times.
CONSTRUCTION: Tank is constructed of steel.
The inside of the tank is constructed of a to metal contact and rusting of the tank.
An
anode rod will be installed within the tank. The hex-head plug end of the anode is visible on
the top of the water heater. This metal rod offers secondary protection of the tank against corrosion where the application of glass is not possible (threaded tank openings). These areas will have small areas of water to metal contact.
All water heaters will contain at least
limit
(to prevent water temperatures approaching the “steam” level).
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©2005 Ashland City, TN
glass lining bonded to the steel. This prevents water
one thermostat (to operate the heater) and one high
4
V
See Manual and Labels For Installation Clearances
Typical Model and Rating Plate Location
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
INSTALLATION OF RESIDENTIAL GAS WATER HEATER
Exhaust Vent to
Outside of Building
Union
Union
Water
Shut Off
alve
Expansion Tank Pressurize to Equal Supply Water Pressure
Temperature And Pressure Relief Valve – Do Not Reuse Old Valve.
Maximum Gas Supply
13.8” w.c. or ½ PSI Minimum
4.5” w.c. –Natural Gas
11.0” w.c. Propane Gas
Air Is Drawn In For Combustion. Keep Area Clean And Free From Flammables And Flammable Vapors
Installation Must Follow Local Codes and Instruction Manual Guidelines
Temperature and pressure relief valve tube piped to within 6” of drain.
Thermostat – Recommending setting of 125F.
Safety Pan – Piped to Drain
Drain
Inner and Outer Doors – Reinstall After Lighting Pilot.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
RESIDENTAL GAS WATER HEATER SERVICE
This portion of this manual applies to the Operations and Servicing of Residential Gas, Tank Type, Water Heaters, which are vented atmospherically and use a thermocouple as their electrical source.
Construction: See also “General” section of this manual.
Contro
pilot gas regulator, on-off-pilot knob, controls water temperature, has a temperature adjustment knob, and a high water temperature limit safety.
l: There is one control on this style of water heater. The control has a main gas regulator,
(delta) Note: The word “Hot” may or may not be present on the control knob
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Gas – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Burner: The burner assembly consists of the main burner, main burner orifice, main burner gas
supply tube, pilot burner, pilot burner orifice, pilot burner gas supply tube and thermocouple.
The pilot burner remains on once it is manually lit. When incoming cold water activates the thermostat, gas flows to the main burner. The pilot flame ignites this gas. The main flame burns until the tank reaches set temperature then the thermostat interrupts this main gas flow.
AFTER HAVING CONFIRMED THAT THE WATER HEATER HAS BEEN INSTALLED
PER THE INSTALLATION MANUAL INSTRUCTIONS:
Normal Operation
Electrical:
it generates a small (cannot be detected without an electrical meter) electrical current to the bottom of the control valve. This current powers the electromagnet and holds open the safety valve as long as the pilot flame is heating the thermocouple. DANGER! If the pilot is extinguished, it can take up to 180 seconds for the thermocouple to cool sufficiently to close the safety valve.
The Pilot Flame heats the end of a thermocouple. As the thermocouple gets hotter,
See also C3 technology product information beginning on page .
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Gas – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Temperature: Two metal probes mounted
onto the back of the control are immersed inside the tank water. One probe (the shorter) acts as a temperature high limit. If water gets excessively hot, a sensor within the probe opens, interrupts the small electrical current to the gas valve, and gas flow through the control is interrupted. If this safety sensor opens, the entire control must be replaced.
The longer probe contains a metal rod that expands and contracts as water temperature around the probe cools and heats. As the rod expands, it pushes against a lever actuated gas valve. If the regulator is pushed sufficiently, gas flow is interrupted to the main burner. Adjusting the temperature dial changes the distance the rod must expand or contract to open or close the gas valve.
Gas: When you prepare to light the pilot,
you are instructed to turn the top knob to the pilot position and depress the knob. When the knob is depressed gas will flow to the pilot burner only. You then have to (manually) ignite this pilot gas. When the pilot is lit, the flame must heat the thermocouple until it generates sufficient electricity to the gas valve to allow you to release the knob while gas continues to flow to the pilot. When the top knob is turned to the “ON” position, gas is also available to the main burner if the thermostat calls for heat.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Gas - continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Water Flow: When a hot water faucet is opened, water pressure from the well tank or street
main forces cold water into the water heater. This pushes hot water out of the tank.
Operation: A residential water heater is not a precise operating appliance. Because the water
heater relies on the expansion and contraction of a metal rod, when the thermostat dial is set at an indicated setting (“” is recommended as a starting setting. This is approximately 120 degrees F.) the heater may shut off at 110 to 130 F. The heater will consistently shut off at this same temperature. For this same reason, water temperature may drop 15 - 25 F, around the temperature probe, before the main burner is activated. Keep in mind that hot water in the upper part of the tank will probably be very near the “shut off” temperature of the control while incoming cold water drops the water temperature around the thermostat probe. Also, short repeating heating cycles caused by small hot water uses can cause temperatures at the point of use to exceed the thermostat setting by up to 30° F.
Setting Approximate Temperature (°F) Time To Cause Injury
Hot (▲)
A 130° ± 10° 30 Seconds B 140° ± 10° 5 Seconds C 150° ± 10° 1.5 Seconds
Very Hot 160° ± 10° Under 1 Second
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120° ± 10° 5 Minutes
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Gas - continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Service:
Air: A gas burning appliance requires the oxygen contained in 12.5 cubic feet of air (at sea level)
for every 1000 BTU of heat that is generated. If your water heater has a BTU per hour input of 40,000 BTU then a minimum of 500 (40 times 12.5) cubic feet of clean air must be available. This oxygen will mix with the gas for a clean, blue flame in the burner chamber and provide dilution air for flue products.
(Enters Here)
(Enters Here)
Do not forget that your gas (or oil) furnace and gas clothes dryer also require a like amount of air.
When calculating air supply provisions, also consider the presence of whole house exhaust fans or other exhaust fans competing for the same air supply.
Air must be allowed to enter the heater chamber from the base of the heater and also enter the flue vent from below the draft hood. Do not block these areas with insulation blankets or obstructions lying around the base of the heater.
1,000
BTU Fuel
+
Lack of Oxygen: If a sufficient supply of oxygen (air) is not available for combustion and
dilution, the result will be:
Pilot outage Yellow burner flame Sooting water heater Possible carbon monoxide Smell of burnt gas in the room
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12.5
Cubic
Feet of
Air
=
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Gas – continued
The instruction manual gives guidelines under “Air Requirements” and “Unconfined “ or “Confined Space” sections. If you want to test for a lack of air:
1. Turn on every appliance and fan that exhausts air from the utility room and/or house. Make sure all windows and doors are closed, as well as chimney dampers.
2. Open a hot water faucet so that the main burner will ignite
3. Remove the outer door of the water heater – not the inner door
4. Monitor the flame characteristics for several minutes
If the flame begins to “yellow” open a door or window, to the outdoors, to see if additional air corrects this back to blue. If it does, the room needs more air supply. Perform draft test at draft hood of water heater with match or smoke source to verify.
Manifold Gas Pressure Test
Gas pressure checks are done with flowing gas.
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Testing with
Gas
Pressure
Gauge
Pilot Gas Pressure Test
Supply gas pressure checks are taken ahead of the gas control and as close to the heater as
possible.
Pilot gas pressure checks are taken by using fitting adapters to tap into the pilot gas tubing. Manifold (main burner) gas pressure is measured using the Allen wrench tap on the bottom
of the control valve. Desired gas pressures will be noted on the gas valve label.
If … … then
supply gas pressure is under desired pressure setting
supply gas pressure is over desired pressure
pilot gas pressure is more than +/- .3 inch W.C. from desired manifold gas pressure is more than +/- .3 inch W.C. from desired Additional considerations when pilot or main burner flames are too large or too small:
Incorrect orifice Dirt in orifice or gas supply tubing
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increase supply gas pressure regulator
setting and,
increase supply gas piping size.  add gas pressure regulator.  reduce setting on existing regulator.
replace the control valve.
replace the control valve.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Gas - continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Sooting causes
:
If … … then
the burner is clean but the chamber and/or flue are sooted the main burner, chamber and flue are sooted check the following:
check for lack of supply air.
incorrect orifice excessive gas pressure loose main burner cross threaded orifice gas control valve gas seepage loose gas connection in burner assembly.
Electrical Testing
This type of water heater has its own electrical generating system.
When two dissimilar metals are joined together and this joint is heated, a small, electrical current will be produced. A thermocouple uses this science.
TO GROUND
Thermocouple output test Procedures/Conditions:
Meter set for DC millivolt testing Test from lower ECO (emergency cut off or energy cut off) solder joint to ground. Note: If pilot will not stay lit, manually hold the top knob down in the pilot position. This allows gas to flow to the pilot. Light the pilot and continue to hold this knob down while conducting the test.
If … … then
reading test of at least 13 MV is not present check that flame contacts end of
thermocouple
replace thermocouple.
reading test of at least 13 MV is present continue to next test.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Gas - continued Electrical Testing– continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Millivolt dropout test through copper magnet winding and ECO (Emergency Cut Off) Procedure: Move meter probe to upper ECO solder joint and ground
If … … then
reading of at least 10 MV is not present replace the control valve. reading of more than 10 MV is present but, gas to the pilot shuts off each time knob is released
replace the control valve.
Safety drop out test – the safety gas shutoff
should interrupt gas through the valve when MV current drops to 1-3 MV.
Procedures:
Meter still connected to upper ECO solder joint and ground. Turn Top Knob to “off” position Millivolt output will decrease as thermocouple cools
TO GROUND
If… … then
internal safety does not activate between 1 and 3 MV (you will hear a “click” inside the valve) *internal safety does activate between 1 and 3 MV
*Note: A “click” sound should be heard from the valve as the main gas interrupter snaps up to the
“closed” position.
replace the control valve.
valve is within tolerance and will interrupt gas flow if pilot looses heat or ECO opens.
Condensation
Flue gas products contain moisture. If these flue gas products are cooled to their “dew point”, they become visible moisture – condensation.
Flue gas may become cooled by:
Cold supply air temperatures Cool surfaces – generally, if tank water temperatures drop below 110F, the flue pipe surface
and/or bottom tank head will be cool enough to cause condensation.
Increased combustion efficiency – higher thermal efficiency means that an increased amount
of heat is transferring from the flue gas into the water. If you transfer (approximately) 87.5%, or more, the moisture in the flue gas will condense.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Gas – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Condensation is a mild acid – it will corrode steel Condensation
water dripping is heard (only) while the main burner is on, there is “water” around the heater just after the heater has been operating, there are small, black or red granules on the main burner or top of the heater or corroded jacket or vent piping is noted.
is usually noted when:
If … … then
any of the above conditions exist raise the supply air temperature or
increase stored water temperature or increase the size of the tank
You would not wish to lower combustion efficiency – this would waste gas. Use materials (stainless steel, PVC etc.) that will not be affected by the condensation
Suggested Multiple Heater Water Piping Required For
Proper Operation of Top Connect Models
Installed in accordance with local codes.
TEMPERATURE/PRESSURE RELIEF VALVES
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Gas – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Exhaust Venting Notes
Follow current National Fuel Gas Code requirements for proper installation.
“D” – Typically, same or larger diameter as Draft Hood outlet
“L” – Horizontal piping slopes upward ¼” per foot from heater to chimney or vertical vent Length of horizontal not more than 75% of “H”
“H” – Not less than 5 feet
Maximize vertical distance to first elbow
FLAMMABLE VAPOR IGNITION RESISTANT DESIGN
This section will address the changes brought about by the introduction of FVIR compliant products. Other than items mentioned here, the construction, installation, and service will remain the same as discussed in the primary handbook.
The FVIR acronym stands for "Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant." The AO Smith products are based on "Corderite Combustion Containment" known as “C3 Technology™” . The C3 Technology design features a sealed (from non designated air intake openings) combustion chamber and a "flame arrestor" component.
This class of residential gas water heaters meet the new ANSI standards and testing protocols (ANSI Z21.10.1) established to deal with the accidental or unintended ignition of flammable vapors, such as those emitted by gasoline. Virtually all gas-fired, atmospherically vented, residential water heaters manufactured in the United States with BTU ratings of 75,000 or less are required to meet this new ANSI standard effective July 1,2003. The current implementation schedule for C3 TECHNOLOGY compliant residential gas-fired products is shown in the following table. These dates are subject to change.
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SERVICE HANDBOOK
IMPLEMENTATION CATEGORY
Phase I July 1, 2003
Phase II January 1, 2005
Phase III July 1, 2005 All other gas-fired models with inputs of 75,000 BTU or less.
This supplement addresses the July1, 2003 compliant products.
In addition to the standard water heater design discussed in the main service handbook, the C3 Technology design also includes:
A LDO (Lint Dust and Oil) screen over the combustion air intake  A Flame Arrestor  A combustion chamber Thermal Cut Off (TCO) limit
An additional tool for these products might be a vacuum cleaner with both blowing and vacuuming capabilities. Also include the long, narrow crevasse accessory.
ANTICIPATED INTRODUCTION
CLASS OF PRODUCTS INCLUDED IN THIS CATEGORY
30, 40, and 50 gallon atmospheric vented. (Manufactured housing models are excluded.)
30, 40, and 50 gallon power-vented models. (Manufactured housing models are excluded.)
LDO SCREEN (LINT, DUST, OIL) SCREEN(S)
An easy to clean screen designed to minimize lint, dust and oil based contaminants from being drawn into the “Flame Arrestor” along with make up – combustion - air. There may be one or two of these screens. The LDO screen must be installed with the arrows on the right and left side facing up to function properly. (The arrows are located on two mounting tabs on each side of the screen).
Service:
Inspect the LDO screen(s) regularly. Clean or wash as necessary.
Pulling the tab located in the middle of the screen will remove the screen. Reinstall the clean screen by inserting the end tabs into the jack with the arrows pointing up.
Possible Service issues associated with a blocked screen:
Poor combustion – yellow flame, possible sooting  Pilot outage resulting from a lack of oxygen  Pilot outage resulting from to increased combustion chamber temperature below the main burner.
This may open the automatic reset, thermal cut off switch (TCO).
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
FLAME ARRESTOR
Made from Corderite, a fireproof ceramic material, the flame arrestor is built into the base of the water heater. Combustion air is drawn in through the LDO screen (s). After entering the bottom area of the water heater, this air passes up through the small ports of the flame arrestor and into the combustion chamber.
In the event flammable vapors are introduced accidentally into the combustion chamber, the flame arrestor is designed so any flames burn off the top surface of the arrestor and cannot escape down through the arrestor. The arrestor works somewhat like a check valve.
Service:
Inspect the bottom ports of the flame arrestor by removing the LDO screen (s) and using a mirror and flashlight. Clean the ports if necessary by vacuuming the bottom of the arrestor.
Inspect the top of the flame arrestor by removing the inner door and burner assembly. Lift the heat shield located on the bottom of the chamber. Inspect with the mirror and flashlight. Vacuum or blow down any blocking material. If you blow down through the ports, be certain to also vacuum below the arrestor.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
If there has been a flammable vapor ignition, a qualified service agent needs to inspect the arrestor for cracks. The arrestor is not a replaceable part – the heater would need to be replaced.
Possible service issues associated with the flame arrestor.
Poor combustion – yellow flame, sooting, possible carbon monoxide production.  Pilot outage due to lack of oxygen. Continued pilot outage or finding that the LDO screen(s) is
heavily blocked would warrant inspection of the flame arrestor.
Pilot outage due to increased combustion chamber temperatures below the main burner. This may
open the automatic reset, thermal cut off switch (TCO).
The flame arrestor having contained a flammable vapor ignition. The TCO will open and the
chamber and arrestor should be inspected by a qualified service agent.
SERVICE HANDBOOK
COMBUSTION CHAMBER TEMPERATURE SENSOR
The C3 Technology water heaters will come equipped with a thermal cutoff (TCO) device that is integral with the thermocouple. Temperature cutoff points range from 160°C to 200°C depending on model. The TCO is an automatic reset thermal switch. When activated it will open the thermocouple circuit and shut off the main and pilot burner gas flow. The pilot would have to be relit after the TCO has had sufficient time to cool down (sensor is below 120 degrees F).
The TCO performs two primary functions:
SERVICE:
In the event of flammable vapor ignition inside the combustion chamber, it senses the
corresponding increase in temperature and shuts off gas flow to the main and pilot burners.
If excessive temperatures inside the combustion chamber indicate poor combustion due to
a clogged LDO screen or inadequate air for combustion, the TCO will shut off gas flow to
the main and pilot burners.
There is no routine service associated with the TCO. The standard thermocouple millivolt output checks described in this service handbook still apply. Millivolt readings indicate that the TCO is closed. An open TCO (within a cool chamber) would indicate that the assembly must be replaced.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
The TCO is an integral part of the thermocouple and not replaceable as a separate item. A pilot burner assembly must be reinstalled. On repeated calls of no hot water or pilot outage, a clogged/dirty LDO screen might be the cause and should be checked. Keep in mind this TCO will shut off the pilot and main burner when activated.
With the different cutoff temperature set-points of TCO devices for different model water heaters, it is important that the correct part is used when replacement of the pilot burner assembly is necessary.
Possible service issues associated with the Thermal Cut Off switch being opened:
Pilot outage due to increased combustion chamber temperatures below the main burner. This may
open the automatic reset, thermal cut off switch (TCO).
SERVICE HANDBOOK
The flame arrestor having contained a flammable vapor ignition. The TCO will open and the
chamber and arrestor should be inspected by a qualified service agent.
ONE PIECE PILOT BURNER ASSEMBLY
C3 Technology models feature a "one piece" pilot burner assembly. This assembly will be covered under a minimum 6 year parts warranty on all C3 Technology models, 10 years on premium models.
There are five main components that make up this pilot assembly:
1. Thermocouple with integral Thermal Cut Off switch (TCO).
2. Pilot burner w/orifice and tubing
3. Piezo igniter cable
4. Pilot assembly seal/grommet (orange).
5. An inner door gasket (white) will also be included.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
To replace a pilot assembly:
1. Turn off the gas supply
2. Disconnect the piezo cable from the piezo button (connection near gas control valve).
3. Disconnect the pilot tubing, thermocouple and main burner tube from the bottom of the gas control valve.
4. Remove (2) 3/8 inch nuts securing the inner door.
5. Remove the entire burner assembly.
6. Remove screw securing pilot burner assemble to pilot mounting bracket.
7. Remove pilot assemble - with orange gasket – from the back side of the inner door.
8. Reinsert new pilot assembly into back side of inner door. Wetting the orange gasket may help in securing the gasket into place.
9. Reattach the new pilot assembly to the pilot mounting bracket.
10. Inspect/replace the white, inner door gasket before making the connections to the bottom of the gas control valve.
11. Reattach the piezo cable to the piezo button.
12. Remount the inner door.
13. Follow the pilot lighting instructions including gas and gasket leak checks.
14. Install the outer door.
SEALED COMBUSTION CHAMBER
The combustion chamber is factory sealed around the flame arrestor and the upper and lower perimeter of the chamber. Access for service is provided through an inner door as with current product. However, this inner door is now sealed with; a door gasket, a pilot assembly grommet type seal, and a main burner tube boot/sleeve type seal.
The three seals on the inner door should be checked every time any service is performed. The sight glass should be checked to insure it is not damaged or missing. The pilot tube and thermocouple routing should be straight (not bent at an angle close to the surface of the seal) as it passes through the pilot assembly seal.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
A "five point inner door seal inspection" is outlined below:
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Five point inner door seal inspection:
1. Inner door gasket condition and fit.
2. Main burner tube seal condition and fit.
3. Pilot assembly seal condition and fit.
4. Sight glass, condition; present, not broken or cracked.
5. Straight routing of the thermocouple and pilot burner tube through the pilot assembly seal.
These are all critical to maintaining the C3 TECHNOLOGY integrity of the combustion chamber.
PIEZO IGNITER
C3 TECHNOLOGY models will feature a Piezo igniter to light the pilot burner. The push button switch will be located on the top of the gas control valve. There will be a plug connector between the push button and the igniter wire which is part of the pilot burner assembly.
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Important Service Reminder
Any time service is performed on C3 TECHNOLOGY product the Five Point Inner Door Seal Inspection outlined in the Sealed Combustion Chamber section should be performed and the LDO Screen (s) should be inspected for proper installation (arrows up) and cleaned before leaving.
Other features
All C3 TECHNOLOGY models will feature Green Choice by having a low NOx (nitrous oxide) burner which meets SCAQMD rule 1121. All C3 TECHNOLOGY models will have a brass drain valve standard.
See the “Technical Bulletins Section” of this manual for explanations of:
Water Hammer Mineral Buildup Aluminum Hydroxide Condensation Discolored Water Smelly Water Chlorination Process Lack of hot water Thermal Expansion Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve Operation
Parts Replacement
the products. To order the current, correct replacement part for your model gas water heater, you must know the model number and (complete) serial number of your water heater. This information will be located on a black and white label, on the front of your water heater – this label will also display a star within a circle (the CSA symbol). A sample might be: Model “PCVG-50 – 250” “Ser No. MB03-(numbers) – 250”.
– The parts on these models may change due to improvements/changes in
To order parts, contact your local A.O. Smith Contractor or Distributor, phone AOS
parts at 800-433-2545 or contact A. O. Smith on Web site:
“www.aosmithwaterheaters.com”
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
STANDARD RESIDENTIAL ELECTRIC WATER HEATERS
SOME MODELS MAY HAVE SIDE OR REAR CONNECTIONS
TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE OPENING MAY BE ON SIDE OR TOP OF HEATER. DO NOT REUSE OLD VALVE
SERVICE HANDBOOK
INSTALLATION
TO †FUSED ELECTRICAL SUPPLY (BREAKER BOX)
UNION
COLD WATER INLET LINE
SHUTOFF VALVE
HOT WATER TO FIXTURES
ELECTRICAL JUNCTION BOX ADJACENT CONDUIT ENTRANCE
RATING PLATE WITH MODEL AND SERIAL NUMBER
UNION
†FUSE SHOULD BE RATED AT AMPERAGE INDICATED ON RATING PLATE TIMES 125%
INSTALL THERMAL EXPANSION TANK AFTER SHUT OFF VALVE. PRE­PRESSURIZED TO EQUAL SUPPLY WATER PRESSURE
DRAIN LINE
ACCESS PANELS – WATER TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT IS BEHIND THESE PANELS. RECOMMENDED SETTING IS
6” AIR GAP
SEE MANUAL AND LABELS FOR INSTALLATION CLEARANCES
INSTALL DRAIN PAN TO PREVENT
INSTALLATION MUST FOLLOW LOCAL CODES AND INSTRUCTION MA NUAL GUIDELINES.
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
23
FLOOR
DRAIN VALVE
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
STANDARD RESIDENTIAL ELECTRIC WATER HEATERS
This portion of this manual applies to the Operation and Servicing of Residential Electric,
Tank Type, Water Heaters. The illustrations are for two element models but the
information also applies to single element models.
Multiple Heater Water Piping
Required for Proper Operation
of Top Connect Models
TEMPERATURE/PRESSURE RELIEF VALVES
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©2005 Ashland City, TN
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
STANDARD RESIDENTIAL ELECTRIC WATER HEATER SERVICE GUIDELINES
Construction
See “General Section” for features common to both gas and electric models. Miscellaneous: Amperage (Amps) (1 phase) = Watts divided by Volts Amperage (3 phase) = (Watts X .577) divided by Volts KW Required = (GPH X 8.25 X Temp. Rise X 1.0) divided by (3413) Ohms = Volts divided by Amperes One kilowatt is equal to 1000 watts One kilowatt is equal to 3,413 BTU Recovery Rate = (KW X 3413) divided by (Temp. Rise X 8.25)
Rise (F) = (KW X 3413) divided by (GPH X 8.25) Supply electrical fusing or breakers should be sized at least 125% of expected heater
amperage.
Water weighs 8.25 pounds per gallon at 120F (49C). % of Hot water = (Mixed temp. – Cold) divided by (Hot temp. – Cold)
Heating element(s)
This style water heater will have one or two electric, heating elements immersed in the tank. One element will always be located low in the tank; a second element is commonly located down about 1/3 of the tank height from the top of the tank. These elements will seldom be wired to operate at the same time. (If they operate at the same time, amperage draw doubles, wire gauge size increases, fuse size increases and little is gained in heat recovery.)
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
(
(
)
(
)
Residential Electric – continued
Since the element (s) are - very nearly - totally immersed in the tank, thermal efficiency is assumed to be 100%. – all of the Btu (Watts) generated, enter the water.
SERVICE HANDBOOK
B.
A.
C.
Watt Density = the density of the wattage output of the element compared to the surface
area of the element (i.e. “High Watt Density Element” will have the most wattage per square inch of element surface. If the above elements generated 4,500 w. each, “B” might be
considered a “high” watt density element, “A” a medium and “C” a low.)
Voltage Notes:
120 volt AC circuit
240 volt AC circuit
Hot)
L1 L2
L1 L2
Hot
Hot
L1 to Ground = 120 Volts L2 to Ground = 0 Volts
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L1 or L2 to Ground = 120 Volts L1 L2 = 240 Volts
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Surface Mounted Thermostat (s) and High Limit (s)
The thermostats and high limits are held against the side of the tank. As the tank surface heats or cools, a metal disc inside of the control expands or contracts to open or close electrical contacts in the controls. They will satisfy within 10F of setting. The tank surface has to cool 8 - 15F to reactivate these controls.
Newer
Model Circuit Older Models
2
59T-Style 4100
2
59T-Style 4000
A-6, A-7 X A-6 Upper Tank 110-170
A-6, A-7,
Models
X X Lower Tank 110-170
1
Location
C-2
3
89T33
3
89T13
2
59T-Style 4000
2
AW-Style 7135
A-6 X Upper Tank 90-150
C-2, A-7 X Lower Tank 90-150
A-6 X Lower Tank 90-150 A-7 X X Upper Tank 110-170
4
66T-Style 4400
A-6, A-7,
X X Lower Tank 190°
C-2
3
89T
A-6, A-7,
X 170°
C-2
1
Older” = series 916 or older.
“Newer” = series 917 or more current – (Began approximately January, 1996)
2
Older 59T controls had a maximum setting of 170°F. Replacement 59T controls will stop at
150°F.
3
89T controls are combination High Limit/Thermostat, one piece controls.
4
66T limits may be mounted onto 59T thermostats.
Temperature
Range °F
66T4400
59T4100
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©2005 Ashland City, TN
Thermostat
59T4100
27
89T33 89T13
Combination High Limit &
Thermostat
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued
After having confirmed that the water heater has been installed per the installation manual instructions:
C-2 Circuit
Single element Single thermostat Single High Limit
SERVICE HANDBOOK
C-2 Circuit
Prior to 1996
Power Enters High
Limit 1 and 3
Through High Limit
1, 2 and 3, 4
Through High Limit (2) Jumper
to Thermostat (1) Terminal
And High Limit (4) to Element
Thermostat 1, 2 is Closed
Element is “On”
Tank Water is Heated
Thermostat 1, 2 Opens
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
g
3
r
Residential Electric – continued
Normal Sequence of Operation
SERVICE HANDBOOK
C-2 Circuit – Standard on most single element water heaters.
Single Element Single Thermostat Single High Limit
Operation from a cold tank of water.
C-
2 CIRCUIT
Post 1995
Power Enters
Hi
h Limit – L1 and L
Through High Limit
L1 to T2 and L3 to L4
Thermostat
WIRING DIAGRAM
Note: If used on a normally two element heater, controls will be located behind the upper service cover and the element behind the lower service cover.
T2 Contacts
©2005
Open
T2 Contacts Closed
Power To Element
Element Heats Wate
Thermostat Satisfies T2 Contacts Open
29
Technical Training Department A.O. Smith Water Products Company
Ashland City, TN
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
r
, 1,
r
r
Residential Electric – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
A-6 Circuit
2 Elements 2 Thermostats 1 High Limit
Operation: From cold tank of water
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
Power Enters High-Limit
1, 4 Contacts Open
Power Interrupted to Upper Element Upper Thermostat, 1, 2 Open
A-
Through High Limit
Upper Thermostat
1, 2 Contacts Closed
Power to Upper Element
Element Heats Wate
Upper Thermostat Satisfied
Switch Power to Lower Thermostat – Upper Thermostat
Lower Thermostat Contacts Open
6 CIRCUIT
4 Closed
30
Lower Thermostat
Contacts Closed
Power to Lo ew
Element
Element Heats
Wate
Lower
Thermostat
Satisfied
Lower 1, 2 open
Power Interrupted
to Lower Element
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
WIRING DIAGRAM A-6 Circuit
2 Elements 2 Thermostats 1 High Limit
A-6 Circuit
element water heaters non-simultaneous/interlocked operation
- Standard on dual
Operation: From cold tank of water
A-6 Circuit - Post 1995
Power Enters High-Limit
Through High Limit
Upper Thermostat
L1/T4 Contacts Open
L1/T2 Contacts Closed
Power to Upper /Element
Element Heats Water
Upper Thermostat Satisfied
.
Lower Thermostat
Contacts Closed
Power to Lower Element
Element Heats Water
Lower Thermostat
Satisfied
Power Interrupted to
Power Interrupted to Upper Element
Open
L
1/T2
Switch Power to Lower Thermostat
Closed
L
1/T4
Lower Element Lower 1, 2
Open
Lower Thermostat Contacts Open
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
A-7 Circuit
2 Elements 2 Thermostats 2 High Limits 4 wire
*Some electrical utilities give discounts if electricity is used during “Off Peak” times of the day. This circuit allows use of an “Off Peak” meter, which interrupts power to the lower element during the time of day when electricity is more expensive. This customer relies on additional hot water storage to meet their needs while this element is off.
Prior to 1996
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued
Cold tank of water
Single Electrical Service
Single Phase
SERVICE HANDBOOK
A-7 Circuit
Prior to 1996
Fused Disconnect
Power Enters
Terminal 1 Of Upper High Limit And Terminal 3 Of Upper Thermostat
Upper High Limit 1, 2 Is Closed Upper Thermostat 3, 4 Is Open
Upper Thermostat 1, 2 Is Closed
No Power To Lower High Limit Term 1
Upper Element Is On
Top 1/3 Of Tank Is Heated
Upper Thermostat 1, 2 Opens, 3, 4 Closes
Power From Upper Thermostat 1 To Lower High Limit 1.
Lower High Limit 1, 2 Is Closed
Terminal 3 Of Upper High Limit And Term 3 Of Lower High Limit
Upper High Limit 3, 4
Is Closed
Lower High Limit 3, 4
Is Closed
Lower Thermostat 1, 2 Is Closed
Lower Element Heats Bottom 2/3 Of Tank
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
A-7 Circuit
2 Elements 2 Thermostats 2 High Limits 4 Wire
WIRING DIAGRAM
A-7 – Post 1995
Four wire circuit for non-simultaneous element operation. This circuit permits off-peak meter usage and connection to 3 phase supply circuit.
*Interrupts power to lower element during “peak” charges time of day.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued
Cold tank of water
Single Electrical Service Single Phase
SERVICE HANDBOOK
A-7 Circuit
Post 1995
Fused Disconnect
No Power to Lower High Limit Terminal 1
Power to Upper High Limit 1, and Upper Thermostat 3
Upper High Limit 1, 2 is Closed. Upper Thermostat 3, 4 is Open
Upper Thermostat 1, 2 is Closed Upper Element is On
Top 1/3 of Tank is Heated
Upper Thermostat 1, 2 Opens Upper Thermostat 3, 4 Closes
Power Flows Between Upper Thermostat 4 and Lower High Limit L1
Power to Upper High Limit 3 and Lower High Limit L3
Upper High Limit 3, 4 is Closed Lower High Limit L3, L4 is Closed
Lower High Limit L1 and Lower Thermostat T2 is Closed
Lower Element Heats Bottom 2/3 of Tank
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
CERTIFICATION AND APPROVALS
UL – UL-174 applies to Residential Electric Water Heaters
The following paragraph describes the relationship between ASHRAE, NAECA and the Department of Energy’s ENERGY FACTOR as it relates to the residential electric product lime. All of the A.O. Smith residential electric water heaters meet this code.
The American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineer (ASHRAE) guidelines follow the National Appliance Energy Conservationist Act (NAECA). NAECA follows the Department of Energy (DOE) test procedures of the 1990 code of federal regulation, title 10, part 430 (64) which establishes minimum Energy Factors (EF) for water heaters of 12 kilowatts or less and a storage capacity of at least 20, but not more than 120 gallons.
Formula (as of January 2004) -The minimum EF allowed = .97 - .00132 x V (volume of storage) Example (EES-52; 50 gal. x .00132 = .066 Then .97 - .066 = .904 minimum allowable energy factor).
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
(
)
Residential Electric – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Three Phase – Unbalanced Circuit
3 Supply Wires
6 Element Wires
Element Wattage
Upper/Lower
3000/3000 25.0/14.4 21.7/12.5 10.8/6.3 4000/4000 33.3/19.2 28.9/16.7 14.4/8.3 4500/4500 37.5/21.6 32.5/18.8 16.2/9.4 5000/5000 N/A 36.1/20.8 18.0/10.4 6000/6000 N/A N/A 21.7/12.5
SIMULTANEOUS DUAL ELEMENTS
(both elements ‘on’ when entire tank is cold)
208V 240V 480V
See A-7 Circuit
Full Load Current in Amperes
Connected to Three Phase Power
(Terminal L2/ Terminals L1 & L3
Note: Residential heaters may or may not offer the ability to wire elements for simultaneous
operation. If they are wired for non-simultaneous operation, amperage will be as if wired single phase.
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3 Supply Wires
4 Element Wires
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
SERVICE
Testing C-2 type – single element, single controls type circuit
Element Test OHMS Resistance Check** Test Conditions:
This test uses the multimeter's battery as the electrical supply.
Procedures:
Power to the water heater is "OFF". Multimeter set to OHMS scale testing. Black lead "Common" port. Red lead in "" or " OHMS" port. Dial indicator set to scale above expected indication. Note: Volts divided by amps = OHMS
Disconnect wires from the element terminals.
Test probe on each terminal of an element
See OHMS Resistance Table – Page 45
Element
If … … then
proper resistance (+7.5%) is present continue testing.
meter reads "0"
meter reads "1" or off scale replace element.
** The above test can also be conducted with the element removed from the tank.
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
check OHM scale setting. replace element
38
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued C-2 – service continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Complaint: No Hot Water Conditions:
Tank water cold Power on
Procedure:
Multimeter set for AC voltage check
Voltage Checks
Test voltage between 1 and 3 or L1 and L3 of high limit. If … … then
rated voltage is not present check circuit breaker (fused disconnect)
check wire connections in heater junction
box
check position of heater ON/OFF switch-if
applicable.
rated voltage is present continue to next step.
Test voltage between 2 and 4 or L1 and L4 of high limit
… then
If …
rated voltage is not present press high limit reset button
replace high limit (after conducting
thermostat check)
rated voltage is present continue to next step.
Test voltage between 4 and 2 or T2 and L4
… then
If …
rated voltage is not present check jumper between high limit 2 and
thermostat 1or
on T2, L4 test-replace control.
rated voltage is present continue to next step.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued C-2 service “No Hot Water” – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Test between the two element terminals If … … then
rated voltage is not present check wiring from control. rated voltage is present repeat Ohms resistance test of element
check for water leaks in piping or fixtures.
Complaint: Water Too Hot Conditions:
Tank water above thermostat setting +10F Power on
Voltage Check
Test between 4 and 2 or L4 and T2 If … … then
rated voltage is present replace thermostat control. lower than rated voltage is present test for grounded element. no voltage is present test complete.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued C-2 – service “Water Too Hot” – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Grounded Element Check – Amperage Method Grounded Element Test – using “clamp type” Amperage Meter. Many multimeters
could be used to conduct this test but be certain that possible amperage will not exceed the multimeter’s limit.
Complaint:
becomes the heater.
A grounded element is suspected whenever the water temperature
excessively hot and/or the end user must push the high limit reset to reactivate
Amperage measures the flow of current through a wire. Watts divided by volts = Amps
Conditions:
Power on
Thermostat is satisfied
59T4000
89T13
Test around red wire then black wire to element. If … … then
amperage is noted (indicating flowing power) replace the element. amperage is not noted the element is not grounded.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
A-6 Circuit Servicing
Testing A-6 - two element, two thermostat, one high limit, two wire circuit type water
heaters. Wired non-simultaneously – When the upper element satisfies, power switches to the lower thermostat and element.
Element Test OHMS Resistance Check** Test Conditions:
This test uses the multimeter's battery as the electrical supply. Power to the water heater is "OFF". Multimeter set to OHMS scale testing. Black lead "Common" port. Red lead in "" or " OHMS" port. Dial indicator set to scale above expected indication. Note: Volts divided by amps = OHMS
Disconnect wires from the element terminals.
Test probe on each terminal of an element
See OHMS Resistance Table – Page 45
Element
If … … then
proper resistance (+7.5%) is
continue testing.
present
meter reads "0"
check OHM scale setting. replace element.
meter reads "1" or off scale
replace element.
** The above test can also be conducted with the element removed from the tank.
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RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued A-6 service – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Testing with the Multimeter
Probes installed to test for "voltage - (black test lead is “common".) Dial set to AC - Voltage scale - set dial to highest voltage scale or scale above the
expected voltage. Do not set the meter to a scale below the voltage expected.
Complaint: No hot water Test Conditions:
Tank is full of cold water. Power is "on" to the heater
Voltage Check
Test between 1 and 3 or L1 and L3
If … … then
correct supply voltage is present continue.
correct supply voltage is NOT present
check disconnect breaker.
check wiring to the heater.
Test between 2 and 4 or L1 and L4 If … … then
correct supply voltage is present continue
correct supply voltage is NOT present,
still no power replace High Limit (High Limit/Thermostat on
push Manual Reset - if power is now supplied, conduct thermostat and element checks.
89T)
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43
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued A-6 service Voltage Check “No Hot Water” – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Test between Thermostat 2 and High Limit 4 or T2 and L4
If … … then
supply voltage is present: continue. supply voltage is not present check jumper between high limit 2 and
thermostat 1.
replace thermostat – (tank must be 15F
cooler than setting to activate thermostat.
Complaint: Lack of Hot Water Conditions:
Upper thermostat satisfied Lower portion of tank still calling for heat
Test between high limit 4 and thermostat 4 and L4 and T4 If … … then
correct supply voltage is present continue. correct supply voltage is not present check that tank water temp has satisfied
the upper thermostat.
replace the upper thermostat.
Test between high limit 4 and lower thermostat 1 or L4 and 1 If … … then
correct supply voltage is present continue. correct supply voltage is not present check wiring connections.
Test between high limit 4 and lower thermostat 2 or L4 and 2 If … … then
correct supply voltage is present continue. correct supply voltage is not present replace lower thermostat.
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44
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued A-6 service – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Grounded Element TestAmperage Method - using “clamp type” Amperage Meter.
limits of the multimeter will not be exceeded.
Many multimeters could be used to conduct this test but be certain that the amperage
Complaint:
A grounded element is suspected whenever the water temperature becomes
excessively hot and/or the end user must push the high limit reset to reactivate the
heater.
Amperage measures the flow of current through a wire. Watts divided by volts = Amps
Test Conditions
Wires on the water heater are all connected to their proper terminals. Power to the heater is "on". Both thermostats are satisfied.
Clamp the jaws of the Amp Meter around each wire connected to the elements – one wire at a time.
If …
meter reads the proper amperage (+5, ­10%)
meter reads approximately ½ of the proper amperage
meter reads NO amperage thermostat and element are not grounded.
… then
the thermostat is calling for heat.
replace the element.
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
45
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Testing The A-7 Wiring Circuit
A-7 Circuit:
Two elements Two thermostats Two high limits Four wires Non-simultaneous operation or simultaneous
Prior To 1996 Post 1995
Supply wiring may be a: (See Pages 34 and 37)
1. three wire, 3 phase circuit:
2. two wire, single phase circuit or
3. connection to an off peak meter or time clock.
This third, wiring system interrupts power to the lower thermostat during the designated time period but does not interrupt power to the upper thermostat. If the consumer uses enough of the stored hot water to drop tank temperature at the top of the tank to call for upper element activation, then the upper element will reheat the upper third of the tank
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
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46
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued A-7 Service – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Element Test OHMS Resistance Check** Test Conditions:
Element(s) not heating or water becoming excessively hot. This test uses the multimeter's battery as the electrical supply.
Procedure:
Power to the water heater is "OFF". Multimeter set to OHMS scale testing. Black lead "Common" port. Red lead in "" or " OHMS" port. Dial indicator set to scale above expected indication. Note: Volts divided by amps = OHMS
Element
Disconnect wires from the element terminals.
See OHMS Resistance Table – Page 52
Test probe on each terminal of an element If … … then
proper resistance (+7.5%) is present continue testing. meter reads “0” check OHM scale setting
replace element.
meter reads “1” or off scale replace element.
** The above test can also be conducted with the element removed from the tank.
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
47
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued A-7 Voltage Check
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Voltage Checks
These tests are conducted on the heater, below the junction box.
Complaint: No Hot Water Test Conditions:
Tank is full of cold water (or at least 15F below the upper thermostat setting).
Power on
Upper thermostat calling for heat Multimeter set to the proper AC voltage scale
Test between upper high limit terminals 1 and 3 If … … then
the proper voltage is not present (disconnect) the proper voltage is present check wiring in heater junction box
check power from the breaker (fused disconnect).
continue to next step.
Test between upper high limit terminals 2 and 4 If … … then
the proper voltage is not present push the reset button – if this establishes
proper voltage, conduct thermostat and element checks before changing the high
limit. pushing the reset does not restore voltage replace the high limit. the proper voltage is present continue to the next step.
Test between upper high limit 4 and upper thermostat 2 If … … then
the proper voltage is not present high limit and upper thermostats 2
the proper voltage is present conduct upper element checks.
check the jumper between upper
thermostat 1 and high limit 2.
replace the upper thermostat
top 1/3 of tank should be hot.
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
48
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued A-7 Voltage Check - continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Complaint: Lack of Hot Water Test Conditions:
Upper thermostat satisfied
Test between upper high limit 4 and upper thermostat 4 If … … then
proper voltage is not present replace upper thermostat. proper voltage is present continue to next step.
Test between lower high limit terminal 1 and 3 or L1 and L3 If … … then
proper voltage is not present check wiring to upper thermostat and
heater junction box.
check that off peak meter is not
“Open”.
proper voltage is present continue to next step.
Test between lower high limit 2 and 4 or L1 and L4 If … … then
proper voltage is not present push lower high limit reset. pushing reset restored voltage conduct lower thermostat check
conduct lower element checks
pushing reset did not restore voltage replace lower high limit proper voltage is present continue to next step
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
49
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued A-7 service – Voltage Checks “Lack of Hot Water” – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Test Condition
Lower tank water is at least 15F below lower thermostat setting
Test between lower high limit 4 and lower thermostat 2 or lower high limit L4 and lower thermostat T2 If … … then
proper voltage is not present: check jumper between lower high limit
2 and lower thermostat 1.
replace lower thermostat.
proper voltage is present: continue to next step.
Test between the terminals of the lower element If … … then
proper voltage is not present: check wire connections to lower controls. proper voltage is present: conduct grounded element checks.
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
50
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued A-7 – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Grounded Element Test – Amperage Method – Using “clamp type” Amperage Meter. Many multimeters could be used to conduct this test but be certain that the
thermostat is satisfied or the amperage limits of the multimeter may be exceeded.
Complaint: A grounded element is suspected whenever the water temperature becomes excessively hot and/or the end user must push the high limit reset to
reactivate the heater.
Amperage measures the flow of current through a wire. Watts divided by volts = Amps
Conditions
Power on Thermostats are satisfied
Clamp the jaws of the Amp Meter around each wire connected to an element – one wire at a time. If … … then
meter reads the proper amperage (+5, -10%) meter reads approximately ½ of the proper amperage meter reads NO amperage thermostat and element are not grounded
the thermostat is calling for heat
replace the element
-
Note: Amperage will only be indicated while electricity flows through a wire.
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
51
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Miscellaneous Residential Electric Water Heater Service Items:
Watts divided by Volts = Amps
Supply wire gauge and fuse (breaker) protection must be at least 125% of the expected Amperage draw of the water heater.
Volts times Amps = Watts
Replace elements with elements rated at the same wattage and voltage indicated on the
heater model and rating plate. Installing an element with a higher voltage rating or wattage
output may create a safety hazard by overloading the heater wiring or supply wiring or
fusing. Installing an element with a lower wattage or voltage rating will reduce performance.
Normally, a residential electric water heater with two elements will have only one element
operate at a time. If the upper element or thermostat fails, the customer will be out of hot
water. If the lower element or thermostat fails, the customer should still have 1/3 of the
tank with hot water.
With two element heaters, the lower element and thermostat will cycle more frequently
than the upper element and thermostat. For this reason, the lower element will normally accumulate lime faster and fail more often than the upper element. Lower thermostats will fail more often than upper thermostats.
Replacement elements:
Replace elements with an element having the most surface area (low watt density)
available for your water heater. By spreading the heat of the element over a greater area, lime (calcium) buildup rate should be reduced.
Elements constructed of Incoloy are much more durable than elements made of copper
with zinc coating.
Many electric utilities offer discounts if you do not use electricity during certain times of the
day. Contact them – by purchasing a larger storage water heater, with special wiring (see
A-7 wiring circuit) for time clocks or “off peak meters”, you may save on monthly operating costs.
Element with Links
Resistance of Element in Ohms (± 7.5%)
Rated Wattage Rated
Voltage
120 23.2 18.6 13.9 11.1 9.28 6.96 5.57 208 72.1 57.7 43.3 34.6 28.8 21.6 17.3 240 92.8 74.3 55.7 44.6 37.1 27.8 22.3 277 128 102 76.7 61.4 51.2 38.4 30.7
Voltage
120 4.64 208 14.4 12.4 10.8 9.61 8.65 7.85* 7.2 240 18.6 15.9 13.9 12.4 11.1 10.1* 9.28 277 25.6 21.9 19.2 17.1 15.3 14.0 12.8 480 76.8 65.7 57.5 51.1 45.7 41.8 38.4
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
600 750 1000 1250 1500 2000 2500
Rated Wattage Rated
3000 3500 4000 4500 5000 5500 6000
52
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
A.O. SMITH TECHNICAL BULLETINS
The following are bulletins designed to help service the standard, residential gas and electric model water heaters. These bulletins and more are available on the A. O. Smith
website www.aosmihtwaterheaters.com.
This information is intended to supplement service and maintenance information found in the heater installation and operation manual.
“Why water heaters leak” information ……………………………..54-55
Index of Technical Bulletins:
Water Hammer.................................................................................. 56
Mineral Buildup ................................................................................. 57
Aluminum Hydroxide ......................................................................... 58
Discolored Water............................................................................... 59
Smelly Water..................................................................................... 60
Chlorination Procedure...................................................................... 61
Not Enough Hot Water - Gas ............................................................ 62
Not Enough Hot Water – Electric ...................................................... 63
Thermal Expansion…………………………………………………....64-65
Leaking Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve.............................. 66
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
53
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
WHY WATER HEATER TANKS LEAK
WHAT WHY PREVENTION
Water Pressure
Water expands when it is heated (Thermal Expansion). Water cannot be compressed. Excessive Pressure in the tank causes failure of joints, welds or gaskets.
Condensation (Gas Water Heaters)
Products of combustion contain moisture. As the combustion products cool the moisture becomes liquid – carbonic acid. The acid attacks the metal. Higher efficiency water heaters have cooler gases. Recommended water storage temperatures create cooler
surfaces. Contaminated Air
Bleaches, floor waxes,
detergents, salt and many other
household products contain
chemicals which, when drawn into
contact with a flame (a gas water
heater uses 12 cubic feet of air for
each 1000 BTU of heat
generated). When these
chemical vapors or dusts come
into contact with a flame or
electrical contact, various acids
form. These acids attack the
metal. Soft Water Soft water minimizes mineral
buildup within the tank. Minimal
minerals maintain the water
heater at high efficiency but may
also expose interior surfaces to
corrosion. Mineral buildup in
some heaters prevents them
leaking while greatly reducing
efficiency.
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
A Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve limits pressure to a maximum. Adding a Thermal Expansion Tank limits pressure to near supply water pressure.
Install a water heater with capacity to minimize significant stored water temperature drop during usage. Store water at a higher temperature – install a mixing valve to reduce danger of scalding.
Supply the heater with clean air. “Direct Vent” water heaters use air from outside of the building for combustion.
A metal “Anode” rod within the tank helps to prevent internal corrosion. Maintain the self sacrificing “anode” rod by inspecting the rod annually and replacing when large “gouges” appear in its surface.
54
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
WHY WATER HEATER TANKS LEAK - Continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
WATER CONDITIONS
WHAT WHY PREVENTION
“Hard” Water (Gas Water Heaters)
“Hard” water contains minerals. As water is heated the minerals separate from the water and attach to hot surfaces within the tank. In gas water heaters, these minerals “insulate” the heat transfer surfaces conducting heat from the burner through to the water. These surfaces become hotter than if they were clean. Hotter surfaces mean more expansion and contraction of the metal as the burner cycles on and off. The metal or weld joints
crack. “Hard” Water (Electric Water Heaters)
See above explanation.
Lime (calcium) forms on the
electric elements.
Elements become excessively hot
and may split.
Split elements often leak to the
outside of the heater. Water Temperature
Water stored at 160F (72 C)
may be twice as corrosive as
water stored at 140F (60C) Usage Each time the burner or elements
cycle on and off, a small amount
of metal expansion and
contraction take place. As
bending a piece of wire back and
forth will break the wire, this
expansion and contraction will
eventually crack tank joints or
welds. For more detailed explanation on this information as well as additional service information, see the A.O. Smith Web site
www.hotwater.com under “Technical Information”.
0801
form TC-063
“Flush” the sand from the tank every 6 months. Delime the tank interior yearly. Install a water softener in hard water areas. These should be adjusted according to manufacturer’s recommendations, typically for 5 grains hardness.
Inspect and clean elements as necessary. Add a water softener. Install elements resistant to failure due to Lime (mineral) build up.
Begin with a water heater setting of 120F (49C) and increase only as necessary. Purchasing a proper sized tank will minimize burner or element operation when only small quantities of hot water are used.
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
55
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
WATER HAMMER
GENERAL
EFFECTS
THE FIX
NOTES
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
Water hammer is the destructive forces, pounding noises and vibration in a piping
system when water flowing through a pipeline is stopped abruptly. When water
hammer occurs, a high intensity pressure wave travels back through the piping
system until it reaches a point of some relief. The shock wave will then surge back
and forth between the point of relief and the point of stoppage until the destructive
energy is dissipated in the piping system. The violent action accounts for “banging”,
“thumping”, and/or intense vibration in the pipe line. Although noise is generally
associated with the occurrence of water hammer, it can occur without audible sound
or noise. Quick closure always causes some degree of shock with or without noise.
The common cause of water hammer is single lever faucets (sinks/lavatories) or
automatic solenoid valves (dishwashers, washing machines, etc.). The speed of the
valve closure time is directly related to the intensity of the surge pressure.
The damage from water hammer can manifest itself in a number of ways. The most
common are:
Expanded Tank Shell - This can be demonstrated by measuring the circumference at
various locations along the shell. Pressures in excess of the maximum design working pressure can cause permanent deformation of the shell
Collapsed Flue Tube - This will choke off the ability to vent the products of combustion
causing the flame and/or combustion to spill out from the combustion chamber. Often this will occur where thinning of the flue tube walls has occurred due to contamination of the combustion air or because of excessive condensation
Inverted or Deformed Tank Heads - Often this accompanies collapsed flues, but one
or both heads can be deformed.
The only effective means of control is to install water hammer arrestors. These
devices have diaphragms, which separate an air chamber from the water in the piping
system. As the shock wave reaches this device, the air chamber absorbs the shock.
Arrestors should be located as close as possible to the source of the shock wave.
Since water hammer exposes the equipment to pressures in excess of its design
limits, failures caused by water hammer are not eligible for warranty consideration.
56
BULLETIN 11
.
.
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
MINERAL BUILD-UP
SYMPTOMS
Rumbling
CAUSE
THE FIX
NOTES
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
With the advent of high input and larger storage tanks in both commercial and
residential heaters, deliming has become a necessity of modern maintenance.
Lime (CaCO
Lime is present in every water system to some degree across the entire
United States. Since lime is inversely soluble [the more you heat, the more
lime comes out], higher usage, excessive hardness, and increased heating
surface can lead to a high incidence of “limed-up” heaters.
Symptoms often include a popping of water trapped under lime deposits or
the sizzling of water trapped next to elements, boiling it to steam.
Treatment of a “ limed-up“ heater is relatively simple. Since CaCO
the easiest way to dissolve it so it can be flushed from the heater is with an
acid. The most commonly used is phosphoric acid at a food-grade level.
Two common treatments marketed by A.O. Smith are Mag-Erad and Un-
Lime. Any well-stocked plumbing supply house should have a deliming
solution available.
The directions on the product should be followed explicitly.
For additional information and instructions in deliming water heaters and
boilers, please refer to the following pamphlets available from A.O. Smith:
Why? When & How: To Remove Water Scale from Tank Type Water The Mag-Erad
Up-N-Down All About Deliming Coil Type Water Heaters
), is the most notable factor when discussing water hardness.
3
Heaters
Crackling
Method of Cleaning Gas Fired Water Heaters
Transfer Kit
57
BULLETIN 13
Popping
is a base,
3
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
BULLETIN 14
SYMPTOMS
CAUSE
THE FIX
NOTE
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
“Crackling”, “gurgling”, or “popping” noises from new water heaters (installed less than six months).
In a few isolated parts of the United States where the water supply has a relatively high pH (8+), water conditions will react with the aluminum anode to form excessive amounts of aluminum hydroxide on the anode and in the bottom of the tank. Aluminum hydroxide looks like “jelly beads” or a green, blue or gray gel like substance in the heater drain or at faucet aerators
This procedure should only be performed by someone with abilities equal to a licensed tradesman. Aluminum hydroxide can be removed by using one of the methods outlined.
If tank is new with no lime build-up to any degree:
1 Turn off the heater. 2 Remove the anode. 3 Flush the tank thoroughly with water.
4 Replace the aluminum anode (identifiable by smooth surface on plug) with magnesium
anode (identifiable by weld bead on plug).
If the tank is new with lime build-up to any degree:
1 Turn off the heater. 2 Drain the heater. 3 Remove the anode.
4 Add UN-LIME to the tank.
5
6 Shut off the water heater. 7 Allow the heated UN-LIME to stand for up to 12 minutes. 8 Drain and flush the tank. Caution: UN-LIME will still be hot.
9 Replace the original aluminum anode with a magnesium anode. 10 Fill the system with water. 11 On electric models, return the wiring to its original configuration. 12 Turn heater fuel “ON”.
Since aluminum hydroxide is a product of a chemical reaction dependent on the water condition, any treatment is not considered warranty related.
20-40 gallon models (use 3 gallons of UN-LIME) 41-65 gallon models (use 5 gallons of UN-LIME) 66-100 gallon models (use 7 gallons of UN-LIME)
(On electric models, be certain the lower element is immersed in solution.)
Heat the UN-LIME to a temperature between 140F to 160F.
GAS - Heat for 7 to 10 minutes. ELECTRIC - Power off and remove the yellow wire from terminal 2 on the upper thermostat.
Move the red wire from terminal 4 of the upper thermostat to terminal 2 of the upper thermostat. This allows operation of the lower element only. Restore power to the heater. Be certain that only the lower element is operating. Heat for 7 to 10 minutes.
ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE
.
58
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
BULLETIN 21
DISCOLORED WATER
SYMPTOMS
CAUSE
TREATMENT
NOTE
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
Rusty, brown, black, or yellow water appearing in the hot water.
Complaints of discolored water are commonly blamed on water heaters and storage tanks, but in fact, it is a rare occurrence for today’s high quality glass lined tanks to have a lining failure significant enough to allow water to contact enough bare metal to discolor the contents of even a small tank.
The most common cause of “rusty” water is a non-toxic iron reducing bacteria, scientifically termed Crenothrix, Leptothrix, and Gallionella. Iron bacteria is commonly found in soil, water wells, water treatment plants and water distribution piping systems where soluble iron exceeds 0.2 ppm, higher levels make conditions even more favorable. Soluble iron in the water provides food for the bacteria. Rusty discolored water is the end result of the bacteria feeding process. Water heaters and storage tanks usually require new anode rods as presence of iron bacteria contributes to premature anode failure.
The requirements for the bacteria to thrive are:
Elevated level of iron and manganese in the water  Water with little or no dissolved oxygen  Temperatures below 138F
Items that can increase the potential for this bacteria are:
Water softeners Well water Long periods of no water movement
The simplest treatment available is shock-chlorination of the system. This is a surface treatment, and often requires repeated trials in heavily infected systems. The chlorination of a system requires that you follow each step explicitly to avoid an un-treated portion of the piping system from reinfecting another part. See Bulletin 23 for the chlorination procedure.
Since rusty water is caused by a bacteria presence and is not caused by the water heater, any treatment would not be considered warranty related.
59
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
BULLETIN 22
SMELLY WATER
CAUSE
TREATMENT
NOTE
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
The most common cause of “smelly water” is a non-toxic sulfate reducing bacteria, scientifically termed the water system through construction or a break in ground piping. The bacteria creates the energy it needs to survive by converting sulfate (SO hydrogen sulfide (H
Hydrogen sulfide gas is distinctive because of its rotten egg-like stench. Its presence can severely affect the taste as well as the odor of the water. Occasionally this bacteria can be accompanied by black deposits, the result of pipe and fitting corrosion. In extremely high concentrations, hydrogen sulfide gas can be toxic though the gas is detectable long before harmful levels are reached.
The requirements for the bacteria to thrive are: a) an elevated level of sulfur in the water, b) activated hydrogen from cathodic reactions within the tank, c) water with little or no dissolved oxygen, d) and temperatures below 138F.
Items that can increase the potential for this bacteria are: a) water softeners, b) well water, c) and long periods of no water movement.
Other factors that may contribute to smelly water:
Chlorides of Magnesium and Calcium leave a bitter taste.  Chloride of Sodium produces a salty taste.  Sulfates (50 ppm) give a medicinal taste.  Carbon Dioxide in a low pH water gives fizzy water.  Iron and tannic waters also give a bad taste and odor.
The simplest treatment available is the shock-chlorination of the system. This is a surface treatment, and often requires repeated trials in heavily infected systems. The chlorination of a system requires that you follow each step explicitly to avoid an un-treated portion of the piping system from reinfecting another part. See Bulletin 23 for the chlorination procedure. Longer lasting solutions include chlorination or aeration of the water supply.
Since smelly water is caused by a bacteria presence and is not caused by the water heater, any treatment would not be considered warranty related.
S) gas you smell in the water.
2
Divibrio Sulfurcans. This bacteria often enters
) to
4
60
CAUSE
PROCEDURE
STEP 1 STEP 2 STEP 3 STEP 4 STEP 5 STEP 6
STEP 7 STEP 8
STEP 9 STEP 10
STEP 11
STEP 12 STEP 13
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
BULLETIN 23
CHLORINATION PROCEDURE
The chlorination procedure is used to eliminate various bacteria that accumulate and grow in water heaters. These bacteria often cause odorous or discolored water conditions.
Please read the steps of the chlorination procedure prior to beginning. If you feel uncomfortable performing any of these steps, contact a service person to perform this procedure for you.
Turn off the gas or electric supply to the tank. Turn off the cold water supply valve to the tank. Open a nearby hot water faucet to relieve the vacuum. Drain all the water from the tank (a water-hose may be needed). Remove the anode rod(s), and close the drain valve. Using a funnel in the anode opening add one gallon of household chlorine bleach (e.g. Clorox or Purex) for every 25 gallons of tank capacity. Reinstall anode rod(s) after inspecting and replacing as needed. Open cold water supply valve and refill the system. Then draw the water to every hot water fixture, until the smell of chlorine is detected. Operate dish and clothes washers until a noticeable amount of the chlorine is detected as
well. All hot water lines must receive treatment.
Leave the chlorine solution undisturbed for one hour or more. After the contact time has elapsed, drain the tank according to steps #2, #3, & #4. Close the drain valve and refill the tank. Allow the tank to sit for 15 minutes. Repeat steps #2, #3, and #4. Continue to flush the tank if the water is discolored or contains a chlorine odor. Close the drain valve and refill the tank. Flush opening every hot water outlet/ appliance. Return hot water heating system to service by following the recommended start-up procedure posted on the unit or in the manual.
all chlorine from the piping by
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
61
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
BULLETIN 35
NOT ENOUGH HOT WATER - GAS
CAUSE
TEST
STEP 1
STEP 2 STEP 3 STEP 4 STEP 5 STEP 6 STEP 7
STEP 8 STEP 9
THE FIX
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
Not enough hot water complaints are becoming more frequent in the water heater industry. This increase was triggered when changes required by our regulatory agencies were implemented. For example, heaters are now factory preset at a lower temperature and inlet tubes have been shortened. While lower temperatures settings reduce the burn rate, and shorter dip tubes guard against stacking, both affect the amount of hot water a water heater can supply. The following test will help determine if a water heater is supplying the intended amount of hot water and will help pinpoint any problems that exist.
Please read all the steps of the test prior to beginning. If you feel uncomfortable performing any of these steps, contact a service person to conduct this test for you.
At the faucet nearest to the water heater, time (in seconds) how long it takes to fill a 1 gallon bucket (flow rate).
Gallon per minute (gpm) = 60 seconds / seconds to fill a 1 gallon bucket
If the bucket fills in: 10 sec = 6 gpm 12 sec = 5 gpm 15 sec = 4 gpm 20 sec = 3 gpm 24 sec = 2.5 gpm
Turn thermostat dial on the water heater so the arrow points to “A” position. Run about 15 gallons of hot water from the nearest faucet. Shut water off. Water heater should complete heating 15 gallons in approximately 20-35 minutes. At a nearby faucet using a candy thermometer, measure the hot water temperature. The temperature should fall between 120F to 140F. Continue running the hot water until 60% of the tank capacity is depleted:
CAPACITY DEPLETE 30 gallons 18 gallons
40 gallons 24 gallons 50 gallons 30 gallons 75 gallons 45 gallons 100 gallons 60 gallons
At the same faucet using a candy thermometer, measure the water temperature. The temperature should be about 30F below the temperature in step 6.
Step 6 - if the temperature was not within range, check the thermostat. Step 9 - if more than 30 F was lost, check the dip tube.
62
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
BULLETIN 36
NOT ENOUGH HOT WATER - ELECTRIC
CAUSE
TEST
STEP 1
STEP 2 STEP 3 STEP 4 STEP 5 STEP 6 STEP 7
STEP 8 STEP 9
THE FIX
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
Not enough hot water complaints are becoming more frequent in the water heater industry. This increase was triggered when changes required by our regulatory agencies were implemented. For example, heaters are now factory preset at a lower temperature and inlet tubes have been shortened. While lower temperatures settings reduce the burn rate, and shorter dip tubes guard against stacking, both affect the amount of hot water a water heater can supply. The following test will help determine if a water heater is supplying the intended amount of hot water and will help pinpoint any problems that exist.
Please read all the steps of the test prior to beginning. If you feel uncomfortable performing any of these steps, contact a service person to conduct this test for you.
At the faucet nearest to the water heater, time (in seconds) how long it takes to fill a 1 gallon bucket (flow rate).
Gallon per minute (gpm) = 60 seconds / seconds to fill a 1 gallon bucket
If the bucket fills in: 10 sec = 6 gpm 12 sec = 5 gpm 15 sec = 4 gpm 20 sec = 3 gpm 24 sec = 2.5 gpm
Turn both upper and lower thermostat dials on the water heater to 130° F. Run about 15 gallons of hot water from the nearest faucet. Shut water off. Water heater should complete heating 15 gallons in approximately 45 minutes At a nearby faucet using a candy thermometer, measure the hot water temperature. The temperature should fall between 120F to 140F. Continue running the hot water until 60% of the tank capacity is depleted:
CAPACITY DEPLETE 30 gallons 18 gallons
40 gallons 24 gallons 50 gallons 30 gallons 66 gallons 39 gallons 80 gallons 48 gallons 120 gallons 72 gallons
At the same faucet using a candy thermometer, measure the water temperature. The temperature should be about 30F below the temperature in step 6.
Step 6 - if the temperature was not within range, check the thermostats. Step 9 - if more than 30 F was lost, check the lower element for continuity and the dip tube.
63
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
BULLETIN 45
THERMAL EXPANSION
SYMPTOMS
CAUSE
TEST
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
Effects are only noticeable after hot water use followed by periods of no water use.
Relief valve drips during any recovery cycle when no hot or cold water is used.
Hot water pipes creak while heater is recovering and all valves are closed.
Tanks or other components of the water supply system fail prematurely.
A metallic creaking noise might actually be heard in the location of the heater as the
pressure is relieved and the stretched tank returns to a natural shape. Faucets drips during any recovery cycle when no hot or cold water is used. Water surges when a valve is first open and then pressure drops.
The water in a water heating system expands when it is heated and has a greater volume. Since water will not compress (like air), system designers must include provisions for thermal expansion. (Water in a closed tank at 50 psi, when heated just 10 degrees, will reach a pressure of 250 psi).
Many water supply systems have check valves at the water meter to prevent any possible contamination of the public water supply by the accidental back-flow of contaminated water into the supply mains. These check valves are often required by code, and some cities are even installing the check valves. They serve a useful purpose. Do not remove them!
The use of pressure reducing valves (PRV) is another cause. PRVs are designed to conserve water and prolong fixture life. Many PRVs also act as very effective check valves. Again, do not remove them! Water softeners in the system may also act as back-flow preventers.
Follow these easy steps to diagnose thermal expansion:
Turn the heater thermostat all the way down, and install a water pressure gauge with dead
hand (AOS part #4798) on the drain valve. Open the drain valve, so the gauge reads system
pressure. Open a hot water tap and allow 15% to 20% of the tanks volume to run out. Shut off the
drain valve and make sure that no other fixture in the system, hot or cold, is open. Make sure
that outside fixtures, if they are on the same system, are turned off too. Any water leaks or
use will make the test meaningless. Check the water pressure gauge, and turn the pointer so it lines up with the pressure
indicating needle. Turn the thermostat back up to its normal position, so the heater cycles
on. Watch the pressure gauge. If the system is closed, the pressure will start to climb steadily and rapidly. A small amount of
thermal expansion control may be built into the system because of trapped air pockets or a
water hammer arrestor. In that case the pressure will increase slightly, hold steady for a
short time and then rapidly increase. The temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P) or
PRV should open and release water once the pressure reaches the maximum setting on the
valve. The valve will close once the pressure falls below the pressure setting of the valve.
64
THE FIX
FIGURE
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
The ideal fix involves the use of a pressure reducing valve if supply pressures are above 60 to 70 psi, and a properly sized expansion tank. The PRV reduces supply pressures to 40 to 60 psi allowing an economically priced and sized expansion tank to be used. The PRV also offers the benefit of saving water and prolonging the life of water flow valves. The PRV is not required if the system already has one or if high supply pressures are desired.
The PRV is installed between the check valve and the water heating system. The expansion tank is installed between the PRV and the water heating system. Follow the manufacturers instructions for installing the expansion tank.
Run the thermal expansion check again. The pressure should increase only slightly then hold steady throughout the recovery cycle. The expanded water is flowing back from the heater and into the pressurized storage bladder of the expansion tank. Air pressure will force this water out of the expansion tank into the supply once usage resumes.
DO NOT DEPEND ON THE T&P VALVE TO HANDLE THERMAL EXPANSION! The T&P valve, according to the makers of those valves, was designed as an emergency relief device only. The T&P could be subject to reduced effectiveness or failure.
WARNING
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
Thermal expansion of water, if not compensated for in system design, will lead to the early failure of components. These failures are not covered by the manufacturer’s warranty, so it is extremely important that everyone be aware of the causes, symptoms and solutions to thermal expansion in a closed water heating system.
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SYMPTOMS
GENERAL
THE FIX
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
BULLETIN 52
LEAKING TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
Water seeping around the relief valve tank connection  Leakage at the threaded portion of the relief valve connection  Intermittent weeping and/or dribbling from the relief valve  Large volume of hot water sporadically discharged from the relief valve
The temperature and pressure relief valve (T & P) is a safety device limiting temperature and pressure levels in a water heater. Each T & P has both a temperature and pressure rating.
Normally, the temperature and pressure relief valve will have a temperature rating for 210F. A probe (part of the relief valve) extends into the tank measuring the stored water temperature. This probe must be within the top six inches of the water heater. However, if the water heater’s thermostat malfunctions, higher than normal water temperatures could be produced. Once the probe senses a temperature exceeding its temperature rating, the relief valve will open to full capacity releasing “very hot” water until the temperature is below its reset temperature.
The pressure rating on the relief valve should be the same or less than the certified working pressure of the tank (generally 150 psi) and be below the lowest pressure rating of any system components. It is not acceptable to install a relief valve that exceeds the maximum working pressure of the water heater. Once the pressure in the tank reaches the valve’s pressure rating, it will slightly open relieving the pressure. Relieving of pressure can be noted as “dribbling” or “weeping” water from the relief valve.
If an incorrectly sized temperature and pressure relief valve is installed, the warranty will be void.
Seeping at the spud of the water heater - Spuds are welded to the tank and are not
repairable. The heater should be replaced.
Leakage at the threaded relief valve connection - Remove relief valve and reseal
connection.
Intermittent weeping and/or dribbling at the relief valve - The relief valve relieves water
slowly when actuating on pressure. A closed system can cause pressure to increase in the system. This condition is called thermal expansion. For additional information regarding thermal expansion please see Bulletin 45.
Large volume of hot water sporadically discharged from the relief valve - The relief valve
relieves water quickly when actuating on temperature. The only cause of this problem is a malfunctioning thermostat.
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Technical Training Department
©2005 Ashland City, TN
66
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
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©2005 Ashland City, TN
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