Prepared by the Technical Training
Department Asland City, Tennessee
The first portion of this Service Handbook addresses service issues
associated with Residential Gas Water Heaters that are atmosphericallyvented and use a thermocouple as their electrical source.
The second portion of this Handbook addresses service issues of
Residential Electric Water Heaters having one or two heating elements
and common wiring configurations for these models.
C-2 Service ........................................31
C-2 Voltage Checks...........................32
C-2 Grounded Element Check ..........34
A-6 Service ........................................35
A-6 Element Test...............................35
A-6 Voltage Check.............................36
A-6 Grounded Element Test..............38
A-7 Service ........................................39
A-7 Element Test...............................40
A-7 Voltage Checks...........................41
A-7 Grounded Element Test..............44
Miscellaneous Information.................45
A.O. Smith Technical Bulletins 46
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC HANDBOOK INTRODUCTION
This service handbook is designed to aid in servicing and troubleshooting A.O. Smith
Residential Gas and Electric water heaters in the field. No duplication or reproduction of this book
may be made without the express written authorization of the A.O. Smith Water Products
Company.
The following text and illustrations will provide you with a step-by-step procedure to verify
proper installation, operation, and troubleshooting procedures. Additional quick reference data is
included to assist you in servicing this product.
The information contained in this handbook is designed to answer commonly faced
situations encountered in the operation of the Residential Gas and Electric product line and is not
meant to be all-inclusive. If you are experiencing a problem not covered in this handbook, please
contact the A.O. Smith Technical Information Center at 1-800-527-1953 or your local A.O. Smith
Water Products Company representative for further assistance. Additional information is also
available on the web site www.hotwater.com
plumbing professionals and reference should be made to the instructional manual accompanying
the product. This handbook contains supplemental information to the Residential Gas and
Electric instructional manual.
. This handbook is intended for use by licensed
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temperature decreases 25 degrees F. A 40 gallon water heater will typically provide 70% (28
gallons) of this “usable” hot water. The burner or elements are allowed to operate during this test.
Incoming, cold water mixes the remaining stored water below this 25 degree limitation.
Energy Factor
water heater. The higher the energy factor, the more efficient the water heater will be.
Recovery rate
might be that a water heater has a recovery rate of 30 gallons of water per hour at 80 degree F.
(Fahrenheit) temperature rise.
Thermal efficiency
which enters the water. A percentage of the total BTU passes out through the vent piping.
is the quantity of hot water available to the consumer before the outlet water
is an indicator of the combined thermal efficiency and standby efficiency of a
is the amount of water that is heated to a set temperature, per hour. An example
is approximately the amount of generated BTU (British Thermal Units),
Temperature rise
the desired hot (outlet) setting. Typically this is assumed to be 40 degrees entering water, 120
degrees desired stored water or 80 degrees “temperature rise.”
Standby efficiency
water heat loss per hour is desired.
is the increase in the temperature from its coldest “inlet” water temperature to
– the water heater’s ability to contain heat in the tank. A minimum of tank
Water cannot
Water expands
Minerals and gases
(for all practical purposes) be compressed.
when it is heated.
will separate from water as temperature increases.
Formulas:
BTU (British Thermal Unit)
1 BTU = 252 cal = 0.252 kcal
1 cal = 4.187 Joules
BTU X 1.055 = Kilo Joules
BTU divided by 3,413 = Kilowatts
To convert
C.
One gallon
Pounds X .45359 = Kilogram
Gallons X 3.7854 = Liters
% of Hot
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is the heat required to raise 1 pound of water 1°F
3
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
General Section – continued
% Thermal Efficiency
BTU Output
GPH
= (BTU/H Input X % Eff.) divided by (Temp. Rise X 8.25)
One cubic foot
One “therm”
One cubic foot
One gallon
= GPH X 8.25 X Temp. Rise X 1.0
of Natural Gas contains about 1000 BTU of heat.
is equal to 100,000 BTU
of Propane Gas contains about 2500 BTU of heat.
of Propane gas contains about 91,250 BTU of heat.
= (GPH X 8.25 X Temp. Rise X 1.0) divided by BTU/H Input
SERVICE HANDBOOK
One pound
of Propane gas contains about 21,600 BTU of heat.
One pound of gas pressure is equal to 27.7 inches water column pressure
Inches of Water Column X .036091 = PSI
Inches of Water Column X .073483 = Inches of Mercury (Hg.)
Centimeters = Inches X 2.54
MM (millimeters) =Inches X 25.4
Meters = Inches X .0254
Doubling the diameter of a pipe will increase its flow capacity (approximately) 5.3 times.
CONSTRUCTION:
Tank
is constructed of steel.
The inside of the tank is constructed of a
to metal contact and rusting of the tank.
An
anode rod
the top of the water heater. This metal rod offers secondary protection of the tank against
corrosion where the application of glass is not possible (threaded tank openings). These areas
will have small areas of water to metal contact.
All water heaters will contain at least
limit
(to prevent water temperatures approaching the “steam” level).
will be installed within the tank. The hex-head plug end of the anode is visible on
glass lining
one thermostat
bonded to the steel. This prevents water
(to operate the heater) and
one high
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This portion of this manual applies to the Operations and Servicing of Residential Gas, Tank
Type, Water Heaters, which are vented atmospherically and use a thermocouple as their electrical
source.
Construction: See also “General” section of this
manual.
Contro
main gas regulator, pilot gas regulator, on-off-pilot knob, controls water temperature, has a
temperature adjustment knob, and a high water temperature limit safety.
l: There is one control on this style of water heater. The control has a
▲(delta)
Note: The word “Hot”
may or may not be
present on the control
knob
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supply tube, pilot burner, pilot burner orifice, pilot burner gas supply tube and thermocouple.
The pilot burner remains on once it is manually lit. When incoming cold water activates the
thermostat, gas flows to the main burner. The pilot flame ignites this gas. The main flame burns
until the tank reaches set temperature then the thermostat interrupts this main gas flow.
The burner assembly consists of the main burner, main burner orifice, main burner gas
SERVICE HANDBOOK
AFTER HAVING CONFIRMED THAT THE WATER HEATER HAS BEEN INSTALLED
PER THE INSTALLATION MANUAL INSTRUCTIONS:
Normal Operation
Electrical:
thermocouple gets hotter, it generates a small (cannot be detected without an electrical meter)
electrical current to the bottom of the control valve. This current powers the electromagnet and
holds open the safety valve as long as the pilot flame is heating the thermocouple. DANGER! If
the pilot is extinguished, it can take up to 180 seconds for the thermocouple to cool sufficiently to
close the safety valve.
The Pilot Flame heats the end of a thermocouple. As the
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onto the back of the control are immersed
inside the tank water. One probe (the
shorter) acts as a temperature high limit. If
water gets excessively hot, a sensor within
the probe opens, interrupts the small
electrical current to the gas valve, and gas
flow through the control is interrupted. If this
safety sensor opens, the entire control must
be replaced.
The longer probe contains a metal rod that
expands and contracts as water temperature
around the probe cools and heats. As the
rod expands, it pushes against a lever
actuated gas valve. If the regulator is
pushed sufficiently, gas flow is interrupted to
the main burner. Adjusting the temperature
dial changes the distance the rod must
expand or contract to open or close the gas
valve.
Two metal probes mounted
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Gas:
When you prepare to light the pilot,
you are instructed to turn the top
knob to the pilot position and depress
the knob. When the knob is
depressed gas will flow to the pilot
burner only. You then have to
(manually) ignite this pilot gas. When
the pilot is lit, the flame must heat the
thermocouple until it generates
sufficient electricity to the gas valve
to allow you to release the knob while
gas continues to flow to the pilot.
When the top knob is turned to the
“ON” position, gas is also available to
the main burner if the thermostat calls
for heat.
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main forces cold water into the water heater. This pushes hot water out of the tank.
When a hot water faucet is opened, water pressure from the well tank or street
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Operation:
heater relies on the expansion and contraction of a metal rod, when the thermostat dial is set at
an indicated setting (“▲” is recommended as a starting setting. This is approximately 120
degrees F.) the heater may shut off at 110 to 130° F. The heater will consistently shut off at this
same temperature. For this same reason, water temperature may drop 15 - 25° F, around the
temperature probe, before the main burner is activated. Keep in mind that hot water in the upper
part of the tank will probably be very near the “shut off” temperature of the control while incoming
cold water drops the water temperature around the thermostat probe. Also, short repeating
heating cycles caused by small hot water uses can cause temperatures at the point of use to
exceed the thermostat setting by up to 30° F.
A residential water heater is not a precise operating appliance. Because the water
Setting Approximate Temperature (°F)Time To Cause Injury
Hot (▲)
A 130° ± 10° 30 Seconds
B 140° ± 10° 5 Seconds
C 150° ± 10° 1.5 Seconds
Very Hot 160° ± 10° Under 1 Second
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A gas burning appliance requires the oxygen contained in 12.5 cubic feet of air (at sea level)
for every 1000 BTU of heat that is generated. If your water heater has a BTU per hour input of
40,000 BTU then a minimum of 500 (40 times 12.5) cubic feet of clean air must be available. This
oxygen will mix with the gas for a clean, blue flame in the burner chamber and provide dilution air
for flue products.
(Enters
Here)
(Enters Here)
Do not forget that your gas (or oil) furnace and gas clothes dryer also require a like amount of air.
When calculating air supply provisions, also consider the presence of whole house exhaust fans
or other exhaust fans competing for the same air supply.
Air must be allowed to enter the heater chamber from the base of the heater and also enter the
flue vent from below the draft hood. Do not block these areas with insulation blankets or
obstructions lying around the base of the heater.
Lack of Oxygen:
dilution, the result will be:
• Pilot outage
• Yellow burner flame
• Sooting water heater
• Possible carbon monoxide
• Smell of burnt gas in the room
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If a sufficient supply of oxygen (air) is not available for combustion and
1,000
BTU
Fuel
10
+=
12.5
Cubic
Feet of
Air
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Gas – continued
The instruction manual gives guidelines under “Air Requirements” and “Unconfined “ or “Confined
Space” sections. If you want to test for a lack of air:
1. Turn on every appliance and fan that exhausts air from the utility room and/or house.
Make sure all windows and doors are closed, as well as chimney dampers.
2. Open a hot water faucet so that the main burner will ignite
3. Remove the outer door of the water heater – not the inner door
4. Monitor the flame characteristics for several minutes
If the flame begins to “yellow” open a door or window, to the outdoors, to see if additional air
corrects this back to blue. If it does, the room needs more air supply. Perform draft test at draft
hood of water heater with match or smoke source to verify.
Manifold
Gas Pressure
Test
Gas pressure checks are done with flowing gas.
Supply gas pressure
possible.
Pilot gas pressure
checks are taken ahead of the gas control and as close to the heater as
checks are taken by using fitting adapters to tap into the pilot gas tubing.
Manifold (main burner) gaspressure
of the control valve.
Desired gas pressures will be noted on the gas valve label.
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Testing with
Gas
Pressure
Gauge
is measured using the Allen wrench tap on the bottom
Pilot Gas
Pressure
Test
If … … then
supply gas pressure is under desired pressure
setting
supply gas pressure is over desired pressure
pilot gas pressure is more than +/- .3 inch
W.C. from desired
manifold gas pressure is more than +/- .3 inch
W.C. from desired
Additional considerations when pilot or main burner flames are too large or too small:
• Incorrect orifice
• Dirt in orifice or gas supply tubing
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the burner is clean but the chamber and/or flue
are sooted
the main burner, chamber and flue are sooted check the following:
check for lack of supply air.
•
incorrect orifice
•
excessive gas pressure
•
loose main burner
•
cross threaded orifice
•
gas control valve gas seepage
•
loose gas connection in burner assembly.
Electrical Testing
This type of water heater has its own electrical
generating system.
When two dissimilar metals are joined together
and this joint is heated, a small, electrical current
will be produced. A thermocouple uses this
science.
TO GROUND
Thermocouple output test
Procedures/Conditions:
Meter set for DC millivolt testing
Test from lower ECO (emergency cut off or energy cut off) solder joint to ground.
Note: If pilot will not stay lit, manually hold the top knob down in the pilot position. This allows
gas to flow to the pilot. Light the pilot and continue to hold this knob down while conducting the
test.
If … … then
reading test of at least 13 MV is not present
reading test of at least 13 MV is present continue to next test.
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Residential Gas - continued
Electrical Testing– continued
Millivolt dropout test
Procedure:
Move meter probe to upper ECO solder joint and ground
through copper magnet winding and ECO (Emergency Cut Off)
SERVICE HANDBOOK
If … … then
reading of at least 10 MV is not present replace the control valve.
reading of more than 10 MV is present but,
gas to the pilot shuts off each time knob is
released
Safety drop out test
– the safety gas shutoff
should interrupt gas through
the valve when MV current
drops to 1-3 MV.
replace the control valve.
Procedures:
Meter still connected to upper ECO solder joint and
ground.
Turn Top Knob to “off” position
Millivolt output will decrease as thermocouple cools
TO GROUND
If… … then
internal safety does not activate between 1
and 3 MV (you will hear a “click” inside the
valve)
*internal safety does activate between 1 and
3 MV
*Note: A “click” sound should be heard from the valve as the main gas interrupter snaps up to the
“closed” position.
replace the control valve.
valve is within tolerance and will interrupt gas
flow if pilot looses heat or ECO opens.
Condensation
Flue gas products contain moisture. If these flue gas products are cooled to their “dew point”,
they become visible moisture – condensation.
Flue gas may become cooled by:
• Cold supply air temperatures
• Cool surfaces – generally, if tank water temperatures drop below 110°F, the flue pipe surface
and/or bottom tank head will be cool enough to cause condensation.
• Increased combustion efficiency – higher thermal efficiency means that an increased amount
of heat is transferring from the flue gas into the water. If you transfer (approximately) 87.5%,
or more, the moisture in the flue gas will condense.
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Condensation is a mild acid – it will corrode steel
Condensation
• water dripping is heard (only) while the main burner is on,
• there is “water” around the heater just after the heater has been operating,
• there are small, black or red granules on the main burner or top of the heater or
• corroded jacket or vent piping is noted.
is usually noted when:
If … … then
any of the above conditions exist
•
raise the supply air temperature or
•
increase stored water temperature or
•
increase the size of the tank
You would not wish to lower combustion
efficiency – this would waste gas. Use
materials (stainless steel, PVC etc.) that
will not be affected by the condensation
Suggested Multiple Heater Water Piping Required For
Proper Operation of Top Connect Models
Installed in accordance with local codes.
TEMPERATURE/PRESSURE RELIEF VALVES
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Follow current National Fuel Gas Code requirements for proper installation.
“D” – Typically, same or larger diameter as Draft Hood
outlet
“L” – Horizontal piping slopes upward ¼” per foot from
heater to chimney or vertical vent
Length of horizontal not more than 75% of “H”
“H” – Not less than 5 feet
Maximize vertical distance to first elbow
See the “Technical Bulletins Section “ of this manual for explanations of:
Water Hammer
Mineral Buildup
Aluminum Hydroxide
Condensation
Discolored Water
Smelly Water
Chlorination Process
Lack of hot water
Thermal Expansion
Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve Operation
Parts Replacement
in the products. To order the current, correct replacement part for your model gas water heater,
you must know the model number and (complete) serial number of your water heater. This
information will be located on a black and white label, on the front of your water heater – this label
will also display a star within a circle (the A.G.A. symbol). A sample might be:
Model “PGCG-50 – 242” “Ser No. MB99-(numbers) – 242”.
– The parts on these models change often due to improvements/changes
To order parts, contact your local A.O. Smith Contractor or Distributor, phone AOS
parts at 800-433-2545 or contact A. O. Smith on Web site “www.hotwater.com”
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STANDARD RESIDENTIAL ELECTRIC WATER HEATER SERVICE GUIDELINES
Construction
See “General Section” for features common to both gas and electric models.
Miscellaneous:
Amperage (Amps) (1 phase) = Watts divided by Volts
Amperage (3 phase) = (Watts X .577) divided by Volts
KW Required = (GPH X 8.25 X Temp. Rise X 1.0) divided by (3413)
Ohms = Volts divided by Amperes
One kilowatt is equal to 1000 watts
One kilowatt is equal to 3,413 BTU
Recovery Rate = (KW X 3413) divided by (Temp. Rise X 8.25)
Rise (F°) = (KW X 3413) divided by (GPH X 8.25)
Supply electrical fusing or breakers should be sized at least 125% of expected heater
amperage.
Water weighs 8.25 pounds per gallon at 120°F (49°C).
% of Hot water = (Mixed temp. – Cold) divided by (Hot temp. – Cold)
Heating element(s)
This style water heater will have
one or two electric, heating
elements immersed in the tank.
One element will always be
located low in the tank; a second
element is commonly located
down about 1/3 of the tank height from the top of the tank. These elements will seldom
be wired to operate at the same time. (If they operate at the same time, amperage draw
doubles, wire gauge size increases, fuse size increases and little is gained in heat
recovery.)
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Since the element (s) are - very nearly - totally immersed in the tank, thermal efficiency is
assumed to be 100%. – all of the Btu (Watts) generated, enter the water.
SERVICE HANDBOOK
B.
A.
C.
•
Watt Density
= the density of the wattage output of the element compared to the surface
area of the element (i.e. “High Watt Density Element” will have the most wattage per square
inch of element surface. If the above elements generated 4,500 w. each, “B” might be
considered a “high” watt density element, “A” a medium and “C” a low.)
•Voltage Notes:
120 volt AC circuit
240 volt AC circuit
Hot)
L1 L2
L2L1
Hot
Hot)
L1 to Ground = 120 Volts
L2 to Ground = 0 Volts
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The thermostats and high limits are held against the side of the tank. As the tank surface heats or
cools, a metal disc inside of the control expands or contracts to open or close electrical contacts
in the controls.
They will satisfy within 10°F of setting. The tank surface has to cool 8 - 15°F to reactivate these
controls.
Newer
Model Circuit Older Models
2
59T-Style 4100
2
59T-Style 4000
A-6, A-7 X A-6 Upper Tank 110-170
A-6, A-7,
Models
X X Lower Tank 110-170
1
Location
C-2
3
89T33
3
89T13
2
59T-Style 4000
2
AW-Style 7135
A-6 X Upper Tank 90-150
C-2, A-7 X Lower Tank 90-150
A-6 X Lower Tank 90-150
A-7 X X Upper Tank 110-170
4
66T-Style 4400
A-6, A-7,
X X Lower Tank 190°
C-2
3
89T
A-6, A-7,
X 170°
C-2
1
”
Older” = series 916 or older.
“Newer” = series 917 or more current – (Began approximately January, 1996)
2
Older 59T controls had a maximum setting of 170°F. Replacement 59T controls will stop at
150°F.
3
89T controls are combination High Limit/Thermostat, one piece controls.
4
66T limits may be mounted onto 59T thermostats.
Temperature
Range °F
66T4400
59T4100
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C-2 Circuit – Standard on most single element water heaters.
• Single Element
• Single Thermostat
• Single High Limit
Operation from a cold tank of water.
C -
2 CIRCUIT
Post 1995
Power Enters
Hi
h Limit – L1 and L
Through High Limit
L1 to T2 and L3 to L4
Thermostat
WIRING DIAGRAM
Note: If used on a normally two element heater,
controls will be located behind the upper service
cover and the element behind the lower service
cover.
T2 Contacts
Open
T2 Contacts Closed
Power To Element
Element Heats Water
Thermostat Satisfies
T2 Contacts Open
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*Some electrical utilities give discounts if electricity is used during “Off Peak” times of the day. This circuit
allows use of an “Off Peak” meter, which interrupts power to the lower element during the time of day when
electricity is more expensive. This customer relies on additional hot water storage to meet their needs while
this element is off.
Prior to 1996
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UL – UL-174 applies to Residential Electric Water Heaters
The following paragraph describes the relationship between ASHRAE, NAECA and the
Department of Energy’s ENERGY FACTOR as it relates to the residential electric product lime.
All of the A.O. Smith residential electric water heaters meet this code.
The American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineer (ASHRAE)
guidelines follow the National Appliance Energy Conservationist Act (NAECA). NAECA follows
the Department of Energy (DOE) test procedures of the 1990 code of federal regulation, title 10,
part 430 (64) which establishes minimum Energy Factors (EF) for water heaters of 12 kilowatts
or less and a storage capacity of at least 20, but not more than 120 gallons.
Formula -The minimum EF allowed = .93 - .00132 x V (volume of storage)
Example (EES-52; 50 gal. x .00132 = .066 Then .93 - .066 = .854 minimum allowable energy
factor).
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(both elements ‘on’ when entire tank is cold)
Element
Wattage
Full Load Current in Amperes
Connected to Three Phase Power
(Terminal L2/ Terminals L1 & L3
208V 240V 480V
30
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
SERVICE
Testing C-2 type – single element, single controls type circuit
Element Test
OHMS Resistance Check**
Test Conditions:
This test uses the multimeter's battery as the electrical supply.
Procedures:
Power to the water heater is "OFF".
Multimeter set to OHMS scale testing.
Black lead "Common" port.
Red lead in "Ω" or " OHMS" port.
Dial indicator set to scale above expected indication.
Note: Volts divided by amps = OHMS
Disconnect wires from the element terminals.
Test probe on each terminal of an element
See OHMS Resistance Table – Page 45
Element
If … … then
proper resistance (+7.5%) is present continue testing.
meter reads "0"
meter reads "1" or off scale replace element.
** The above test can also be conducted with the element removed from the tank.
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check jumper between high limit 2 and
thermostat 1or
•
on T2, L4 test-replace control.
32
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
Residential Electric – continued
C-2 service “No Hot Water” – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Test between the two element terminals
If …
rated voltage is not present check wiring from control.
rated voltage is present
… then
•
•
repeat Ohms resistance test of element
check for water leaks in piping or fixtures.
Complaint: Water Too Hot
Conditions:
Tank water above thermostat setting +10°F
Power on
Voltage Check
Test between 4 and 2 or L4 and T2
If …
rated voltage is present replace thermostat control.
lower than rated voltage is present test for grounded element.
no voltage is present test complete.
… then
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Testing A-6 - two element, two thermostat, one high limit, two wire circuit type water
heaters.
Wired non-simultaneously – When the upper element satisfies, power switches to the
lower thermostat and element.
Element Test
OHMS Resistance Check**
Test Conditions:
This test uses the multimeter's battery as the electrical
supply.
Power to the water heater is "OFF".
Multimeter set to OHMS scale testing.
Black lead "Common" port.
Red lead in "Ω" or " OHMS" port.
Dial indicator set to scale above expected indication.
Note: Volts divided by amps = OHMS
Disconnect wires from the element terminals.
Test probe on each terminal of an element
See OHMS Resistance Table – Page 45
Element
If … … then
proper resistance (+7.5%) is
continue testing.
present
meter reads "0"
• check OHM scale setting.
• replace element.
meter reads "1" or off scale
replace element.
** The above test can also be conducted with the element removed from the tank.
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Residential Electric – continued
A-6 service – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Testing with the Multimeter
Probes installed to test for "voltage - (black test lead is “common".)
Dial set to AC - Voltage scale - set dial to highest voltage scale or scale above the
expected voltage. Do not set the meter to a scale below the voltage expected.
Complaint: No hot water
Test Conditions:
Tank is full of cold water.
Power is "on" to the heater
Voltage Check
Test between 1 and 3 or L1 and L3
If … … then
correct supply voltage is present continue.
correct supply voltage is NOT present
• check disconnect breaker.
• check wiring to the heater.
Test between 2 and 4 or L1 and L4
If … … then
correct supply voltage is present continue
correct supply voltage is NOT present,
still no power replace High Limit (High Limit/Thermostat on
push Manual Reset - if power is now supplied,
conduct thermostat and element checks.
89T)
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Two elements
Two thermostats
Two high limits
Four wires
Non-simultaneous operation or simultaneous
Prior To 1996 Post 1995
Supply wiring may be a: (See Pages 25 and 27)
1. three wire, 3 phase circuit:
2. two wire, single phase circuit or
3. connection to an off peak meter or time clock.
This third, wiring system interrupts power to the lower thermostat during the designated
time period but does not interrupt power to the upper thermostat.
If the consumer uses enough of the stored hot water to drop tank temperature at the top
of the tank to call for upper element activation, then the upper element will reheat the
upper third of the tank
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Residential Electric – continued
A-7 Service – continued
SERVICE HANDBOOK
Element Test
OHMS Resistance Check**
Test Conditions:
Element(s) not heating or water becoming excessively hot.
This test uses the multimeter's battery as the electrical
supply.
Procedure:
Power to the water heater is "OFF".
Multimeter set to OHMS scale testing.
Black lead "Common" port.
Red lead in "Ω" or " OHMS" port.
Dial indicator set to scale above expected indication.
Note: Volts divided by amps = OHMS
Element
Disconnect wires from the element terminals.
See OHMS Resistance Table – Page 45
Test probe on each terminal of an element
If … … then
proper resistance (+7.5%) is present continue testing.
meter reads “0”
•
check OHM scale setting
•
replace element.
meter reads “1” or off scale replace element.
** The above test can also be conducted with the element removed from the tank.
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Training Department
Grounded Element Test – Amperage Method – Using “clamp type” Amperage
Meter. Many multimeters could be used to conduct this test but be certain that the
thermostat is satisfied or the amperage limits of the multimeter may be exceeded.
Complaint: A grounded element is suspected whenever the water temperature
becomes excessively hot and/or the end user must push the high limit reset to
reactivate the heater.
Amperage measures the flow of current through a wire.
Watts divided by volts = Amps
Conditions
Power on
Thermostats are satisfied
Clamp the jaws of the Amp Meter around each wire connected to an element –
one wire at a time.
If … … then
meter reads the proper amperage
(+5, -10%)
meter reads approximately ½ of the
proper amperage
meter reads NO amperage thermostat and element are not grounded
the thermostat is calling for heat
replace the element
Note: Amperage will only be indicated while electricity flows through a wire.
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Training Department
Miscellaneous Residential Electric Water Heater Service Items:
•Watts divided by Volts = Amps
Supply wire gauge and fuse (breaker) protection must be at least 125% of the expected
Amperage draw of the water heater.
•Volts times Amps = Watts
Replace elements with elements rated at the same wattage and voltage indicated on the
heater model and rating plate. Installing an element with a higher voltage rating or wattage
output may create a safety hazard by overloading the heater wiring or supply wiring or
fusing. Installing an element with a lower wattage or voltage rating will reduce performance.
• Normally, a residential electric water heater with two elements will have only one element
operate at a time. If the upper element or thermostat fails, the customer will be out of hot
water. If the lower element or thermostat fails, the customer should still have 1/3 of the
tank with hot water.
• With two element heaters, the lower element and thermostat will cycle more frequently
than the upper element and thermostat. For this reason, the lower element will normally
accumulate lime faster and fail more often than the upper element. Lower thermostats will
fail more often than upper thermostats.
•Replacement elements:
Replace elements with an element having the most surface area (low watt density)
available for your water heater. By spreading the heat of the element over a greater area,
lime (calcium) buildup rate should be reduced.
Elements constructed of Incoloy are much more durable than elements made of copper
with zinc coating.
• Many electric utilities offer discounts if you do not use electricity during certain times of the
day. Contact them – by purchasing a larger storage water heater, with special wiring (see
A-7 wiring circuit) for time clocks or “off peak meters”, you may save on monthly operating
costs.
The following are bulletins designed to help service the standard, residential gas and
electric model water heaters. These bulletins and more are available on the A. O. Smith
website www.hotwater.com.
This information is intended to supplement service and maintenance information found
in the heater installation and operation manual.
“Why water heaters leak” information .............................................. 47-48
Index of Technical Bulletins:
Water Hammer.................................................................................. 49
Mineral Buildup ................................................................................. 50
Water expands when it is heated
(Thermal Expansion). Water
cannot be compressed.
Excessive Pressure in the tank
causes failure of joints, welds or
gaskets.
Condensation
(Gas Water
Heaters)
Products of combustion contain
moisture. As the combustion
products cool the moisture
becomes liquid – carbonic acid.
The acid attacks the metal.
Higher efficiency water heaters
have cooler gases.
Recommended water storage
temperatures create cooler
surfaces.
Contaminated
Air
Bleaches, floor waxes,
detergents, salt and many other
household products contain
chemicals which, when drawn into
contact with a flame (a gas water
heater uses 12 cubic feet of air for
each 1000 BTU of heat
generated). When these
chemical vapors or dusts come
into contact with a flame or
electrical contact, various acids
form. These acids attack the
metal.
Soft Water Soft water minimizes mineral
buildup within the tank. Minimal
minerals maintain the water
heater at high efficiency but may
also expose interior surfaces to
corrosion. Mineral buildup in
some heaters prevents them
leaking while greatly reducing
efficiency.
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Training Department
A Temperature and Pressure Relief
Valve limits pressure to a
maximum.
Adding a Thermal Expansion Tank
limits pressure to near supply water
pressure.
Install a water heater with capacity
to minimize significant stored water
temperature drop during usage.
Store water at a higher temperature
– install a mixing valve to reduce
danger of scalding.
Supply the heater with clean air.
“Direct Vent” water heaters use air
from outside of the building for
combustion.
A metal “Anode” rod within the tank
helps to prevent internal corrosion.
Maintain the self sacrificing “anode”
rod by inspecting the rod annually
and replacing when large “gouges”
appear in its surface.
47
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
WHY WATER HEATER TANKS LEAK - Continued
WATER CONDITIONS
WHAT WHY PREVENTION
“Hard” Water
(Gas Water
Heaters)
“Hard” water contains minerals.
As water is heated the minerals
separate from the water and
attach to hot surfaces within the
tank. In gas water heaters, these
minerals “insulate” the heat
transfer surfaces conducting heat
from the burner through to the
water. These surfaces become
hotter than if they were clean.
Hotter surfaces mean more
expansion and contraction of the
metal as the burner cycles on and
off. The metal or weld joints
crack.
“Hard” Water
(Electric Water
Heaters)
See above explanation.
Lime (calcium) forms on the
electric elements.
Elements become excessively hot
and may split.
Split elements often leak to the
outside of the heater.
Water
Temperature
Water stored at 160°F (72 °C)
may be twice as corrosive as
water stored at 140°F (60°C)
Usage Each time the burner or elements
cycle on and off, a small amount
of metal expansion and
contraction take place. As
bending a piece of wire back and
forth will break the wire, this
expansion and contraction will
eventually crack tank joints or
welds.
For more detailed explanation on this information as well as additional service information, see
the A.O. Smith Web site www.hotwater.com
under “Technical Information”.
0801
form TC-063
“Flush” the sand from the tank every 6
months.
Delime the tank interior yearly.
Install a water softener in hard water
areas. These should be adjusted
according to manufacturer’s
recommendations, typically for 5 grains
hardness.
Inspect and clean elements as
necessary.
Add a water softener.
Install elements resistant to failure due to
Lime (mineral) build up.
Begin with a water heater setting of
120°F (49°C) and increase only as
necessary.
Purchasing a proper sized tank will
minimize burner or element operation
when only small quantities of hot water
are used.
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Training Department
Water hammer is the destructive forces, pounding noises and vibration in a piping
system when water flowing through a pipeline is stopped abruptly. When water
hammer occurs, a high intensity pressure wave travels back through the piping
system until it reaches a point of some relief. The shock wave will then surge back
and forth between the point of relief and the point of stoppage until the destructive
energy is dissipated in the piping system. The violent action accounts for “banging”,
“thumping”, and/or intense vibration in the pipe line. Although noise is generally
associated with the occurrence of water hammer, it can occur without audible sound
or noise. Quick closure always causes some degree of shock with or without noise.
The common cause of water hammer is single lever faucets (sinks/lavatories) or
automatic solenoid valves (dishwashers, washing machines, etc.). The speed of the
valve closure time is directly related to the intensity of the surge pressure.
The damage from water hammer can manifest itself in a number of ways. The most
common are:
Expanded Tank Shell - This can be demonstrated by measuring the circumference at
•
various locations along the shell. Pressures in excess of the maximum design working
pressure can cause permanent deformation of the shell
Collapsed Flue Tube - This will choke off the ability to vent the products of combustion
•
causing the flame and/or combustion to spill out from the combustion chamber. Often
this will occur where thinning of the flue tube walls has occurred due to contamination
of the combustion air or because of excessive condensation
Inverted or Deformed Tank Heads - Often this accompanies collapsed flues, but one
•
or both heads can be deformed.
The only effective means of control is to install water hammer arrestors. These
devices have diaphragms, which separate an air chamber from the water in the piping
system. As the shock wave reaches this device, the air chamber absorbs the shock.
Arrestors should be located as close as possible to the source of the shock wave.
Since water hammer exposes the equipment to pressures in excess of its design
limits, failures caused by water hammer are not eligible for warranty consideration.
49
.
.
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
BULLETIN 13
MINERAL BUILD-UP
SYMPTOMS
• Rumbling
CAUSE
THE FIX
NOTES
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Training Department
“Crackling”, “gurgling”, or “popping” noises from new water heaters (installed less than
six months).
In a few isolated parts of the United States where the water supply has a relatively high pH (8+),
water conditions will react with the aluminum anode to form excessive amounts of aluminum
hydroxide on the anode and in the bottom of the tank. Aluminum hydroxide looks like “jelly
beads” or a green, blue or gray gel like substance in the heater drain or at faucet aerators
.
This procedure should only be performed by someone with abilities equal to a licensed
tradesman. Aluminum hydroxide can be removed by using one of the methods outlined.
If tank is new with no lime build-up to any degree:
1 Turn off the heater.
2 Remove the anode.
3 Flush the tank thoroughly with water.
4 Replace the aluminum anode (identifiable by smooth surface on plug) with magnesium
anode (identifiable by weld bead on plug).
If the tank is new with lime build-up to any degree:
1 Turn off the heater.
2 Drain the heater.
3 Remove the anode.
4 Add UN-LIME to the tank.
5
6 Shut off the water heater.
7 Allow the heated UN-LIME to stand for up to 12 minutes.
8 Drain and flush the tank. Caution: UN-LIME will still be hot.
9 Replace the original aluminum anode with a magnesium anode.
10 Fill the system with water.
11 On electric models, return the wiring to its original configuration.
12 Turn heater fuel “ON”.
Since aluminum hydroxide is a product of a chemical reaction dependent on the water condition,
any treatment is not considered warranty related.
20-40 gallon models (use 3 gallons of UN-LIME)
41-65 gallon models (use 5 gallons of UN-LIME)
66-100 gallon models (use 7 gallons of UN-LIME)
(On electric models, be certain the lower element is immersed in solution.)
Heat the UN-LIME to a temperature between 140°F to 160°F.
•
GAS - Heat for 7 to 10 minutes.
ELECTRIC - Power off and remove the yellow wire from terminal 2 on the upper thermostat.
•
Move the red wire from terminal 4 of the upper thermostat to terminal 2 of the upper
thermostat. This allows operation of the lower element only. Restore power to the heater.
Be certain that only the lower element is operating. Heat for 7 to 10 minutes.
51
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
BULLETIN 21
DISCOLORED WATER
SYMPTOMS
CAUSE
TREATMENT
NOTE
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Training Department
Rusty, brown, black, or yellow water appearing in the hot water.
Complaints of discolored water are commonly blamed on water heaters and
storage tanks, but in fact, it is a rare occurrence for today’s high quality glass
lined tanks to have a lining failure significant enough to allow water to contact
enough bare metal to discolor the contents of even a small tank.
The most common cause of “rusty” water is a non-toxic iron reducing bacteria,
scientifically termed Crenothrix, Leptothrix, and Gallionella. Iron bacteria is
commonly found in soil, water wells, water treatment plants and water
distribution piping systems where soluble iron exceeds 0.2 ppm, higher levels
make conditions even more favorable. Soluble iron in the water provides food
for the bacteria. Rusty discolored water is the end result of the bacteria feeding
process. Water heaters and storage tanks usually require new anode rods as
presence of iron bacteria contributes to premature anode failure.
The requirements for the bacteria to thrive are:
• Elevated level of iron and manganese in the water
• Water with little or no dissolved oxygen
• Temperatures below 138°F
Items that can increase the potential for this bacteria are:
• Water softeners
• Well water
• Long periods of no water movement
The simplest treatment available is shock-chlorination of the system. This is a
surface treatment, and often requires repeated trials in heavily infected
systems. The chlorination of a system requires that you follow each step
explicitly to avoid an un-treated portion of the piping system from reinfecting
another part. See Bulletin 23 for the chlorination procedure.
Since rusty water is caused by a bacteria presence and is not caused by the
water heater, any treatment would not be considered warranty related.
52
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
BULLETIN 22
SMELLY WATER
CAUSE
TREATMENT
NOTE
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Training Department
the water system through construction or a break in ground piping. The
bacteria creates the energy it needs to survive by converting sulfate (SO
hydrogen sulfide (H
Hydrogen sulfide gas is distinctive because of its rotten egg-like stench. Its
presence can severely affect the taste as well as the odor of the water.
Occasionally this bacteria can be accompanied by black deposits, the result
of pipe and fitting corrosion. In extremely high concentrations, hydrogen
sulfide gas can be toxic though the gas is detectable long before harmful
levels are reached.
The requirements for the bacteria to thrive are: a) an elevated level of sulfur in
the water, b) activated hydrogen from cathodic reactions within the tank, c)
water with little or no dissolved oxygen, d) and temperatures below 138°F.
Items that can increase the potential for this bacteria are: a) water softeners,
b) well water, c) and long periods of no water movement.
Other factors that may contribute to smelly water:
• Chlorides of Magnesium and Calcium leave a bitter taste.
• Chloride of Sodium produces a salty taste.
• Sulfates (50 ppm) give a medicinal taste.
• Carbon Dioxide in a low pH water gives fizzy water.
• Iron and tannic waters also give a bad taste and odor.
The simplest treatment available is the shock-chlorination of the system. This
is a surface treatment, and often requires repeated trials in heavily infected
systems. The chlorination of a system requires that you follow each step
explicitly to avoid an un-treated portion of the piping system from reinfecting
another part. See Bulletin 23 for the chlorination procedure. Longer lasting
solutions include chlorination or aeration of the water supply.
Since smelly water is caused by a bacteria presence and is not caused by the
water heater, any treatment would not be considered warranty related.
S) gas you smell in the water.
2
53
. This bacteria often enters
) to
4
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
CAUSE
PROCEDURE
STEP 1
STEP 2
STEP 3
STEP 4
STEP 5
STEP 6
STEP 7
STEP 8
STEP 9
STEP 10
STEP 11
STEP 12
STEP 13
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
BULLETIN 23
CHLORINATION PROCEDURE
The chlorination procedure is used to eliminate various bacteria that
accumulate and grow in water heaters. These bacteria often cause odorous
or discolored water conditions.
Please read the steps of the chlorination procedure prior to beginning. If you
feel uncomfortable performing any of these steps, contact a service person to
perform this procedure for you.
Turn off the gas or electric supply to the tank.
Turn off the cold water supply valve to the tank.
Open a nearby hot water faucet to relieve the vacuum.
Drain all the water from the tank (a water-hose may be needed).
Remove the anode rod(s), and close the drain valve.
Using a funnel in the anode opening add one gallon of household chlorine
bleach (e.g. Clorox or Purex) for every 25 gallons of tank capacity.
Reinstall anode rod(s) after inspecting and replacing as needed.
Open cold water supply valve and refill the system. Then draw the water to
every
hot water fixture, until the smell of chlorine is detected. Operate dish
and clothes washers until a noticeable amount of the chlorine is detected as
well. All hot water lines must receive treatment.
Leave the chlorine solution undisturbed for one hour or more.
After the contact time has elapsed, drain the tank according to steps #2, #3, &
#4.
Close the drain valve and refill the tank. Allow the tank to sit for 15 minutes.
Repeat steps #2, #3, and #4. Continue to flush the tank if the water is
discolored or contains a chlorine odor.
Close the drain valve and refill the tank. Flush all
opening every hot water outlet/ appliance.
Return hot water heating system to service by following the recommended
start-up procedure posted on the unit or in the manual.
chlorine from the piping by
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Training Department
Not enough hot water complaints are becoming more frequent in the water heater
industry. This increase was triggered when changes required by our regulatory
agencies were implemented. For example, heaters are now factory preset at a
lower temperature and inlet tubes have been shortened. While lower temperatures
settings reduce the burn rate, and shorter dip tubes guard against stacking, both
affect the amount of hot water a water heater can supply. The following test will
help determine if a water heater is supplying the intended amount of hot water and
will help pinpoint any problems that exist.
Please read all the steps of the test prior to beginning. If you feel uncomfortable
performing any of these steps, contact a service person to conduct this test for you.
At the faucet nearest to the water heater, time (in seconds) how long it takes to fill a
1 gallon bucket (flow rate).
Gallon per minute (gpm) = 60 seconds / seconds to fill a 1 gallon bucket
Turn thermostat dial on the water heater so the arrow points to “A” position.
Run about 15 gallons of hot water from the nearest faucet. Shut water off.
Water heater should complete heating 15 gallons in approximately 20-35 minutes.
At a nearby faucet using a candy thermometer, measure the hot water temperature.
The temperature should fall between 120°F to 140°F.
Continue running the hot water until 60% of the tank capacity is depleted:
Not enough hot water complaints are becoming more frequent in the water heater
industry. This increase was triggered when changes required by our regulatory
agencies were implemented. For example, heaters are now factory preset at a
lower temperature and inlet tubes have been shortened. While lower temperatures
settings reduce the burn rate, and shorter dip tubes guard against stacking, both
affect the amount of hot water a water heater can supply. The following test will
help determine if a water heater is supplying the intended amount of hot water and
will help pinpoint any problems that exist.
Please read all the steps of the test prior to beginning. If you feel uncomfortable
performing any of these steps, contact a service person to conduct this test for you.
At the faucet nearest to the water heater, time (in seconds) how long it takes to fill a
1 gallon bucket (flow rate).
Gallon per minute (gpm) = 60 seconds / seconds to fill a 1 gallon bucket
Turn both upper and lower thermostat dials on the water heater to 130° F.
Run about 15 gallons of hot water from the nearest faucet. Shut water off.
Water heater should complete heating 15 gallons in approximately 45 minutes
At a nearby faucet using a candy thermometer, measure the hot water temperature.
The temperature should fall between 120°F to 140°F.
Continue running the hot water until 60% of the tank capacity is depleted:
• Effects are only noticeable after hot water use followed by periods of no water use.
• Relief valve drips during any recovery cycle when no hot or cold water is used.
• Hot water pipes creak while heater is recovering and all valves are closed.
• Tanks or other components of the water supply system fail prematurely.
• A metallic creaking noise might actually be heard in the location of the heater as the
pressure is relieved and the stretched tank returns to a natural shape.
•Faucets drips during any recovery cycle when no hot or cold water is used.
Water surges when a valve is first open and then pressure drops.
The water in a water heating system expands when it is heated and has a greater
volume. Since water will not compress (like air), system designers must include
provisions for thermal expansion. (Water in a closed tank at 50 psi, when heated just
10 degrees, will reach a pressure of 250 psi).
Many water supply systems have check valves at the water meter to prevent any
possible contamination of the public water supply by the accidental back-flow of
contaminated water into the supply mains. These check valves are often required by
code, and some cities are even installing the check valves. They serve a useful
purpose. Do not remove them!
The use of pressure reducing valves (PRV) is another cause. PRVs are designed to
conserve water and prolong fixture life. Many PRVs also act as very effective check
valves. Again, do not remove them!
Water softeners in the system may also act as back-flow preventers.
Follow these easy steps to diagnose thermal expansion:
•Turn the heater thermostat all the way down, and install a water pressure gauge with dead
hand (AOS part #4798) on the drain valve. Open the drain valve, so the gauge reads system
pressure.
•Open a hot water tap and allow 15% to 20% of the tanks volume to run out. Shut off the
drain valve and make sure that no other fixture in the system, hot or cold, is open. Make sure
that outside fixtures, if they are on the same system, are turned off too. Any water leaks or
use will make the test meaningless.
•Check the water pressure gauge, and turn the pointer so it lines up with the pressure
indicating needle. Turn the thermostat back up to its normal position, so the heater cycles
on. Watch the pressure gauge.
•If the system is closed, the pressure will start to climb steadily and rapidly. A small amount of
thermal expansion control may be built into the system because of trapped air pockets or a
water hammer arrestor. In that case the pressure will increase slightly, hold steady for a
short time and then rapidly increase. The temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P) or
PRV should open and release water once the pressure reaches the maximum setting on the
valve. The valve will close once the pressure falls below the pressure setting of the valve.
57
THE FIX
FIGURE
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
The ideal fix involves the use of a pressure reducing valve if supply pressures are
above 60 to 70 psi, and a properly sized expansion tank. The PRV reduces supply
pressures to 40 to 60 psi allowing an economically priced and sized expansion tank to
be used. The PRV also offers the benefit of saving water and prolonging the life of
water flow valves. The PRV is not required if the system already has one or if high
supply pressures are desired.
The PRV is installed between the check valve and the water heating system. The
expansion tank is installed between the PRV and the water heating system. Follow the
manufacturers instructions for installing the expansion tank.
Run the thermal expansion check again. The pressure should increase only slightly
then hold steady throughout the recovery cycle. The expanded water is flowing back
from the heater and into the pressurized storage bladder of the expansion tank. Air
pressure will force this water out of the expansion tank into the supply once usage
resumes.
DO NOT DEPEND ON THE T&P VALVE TO HANDLE THERMAL EXPANSION! The
T&P valve, according to the makers of those valves, was designed as an emergency
relief device only. The T&P could be subject to reduced effectiveness or failure.
WARNING
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Training Department
Thermal expansion of water, if not compensated for in system design, will lead to the
early failure of components. These failures are not covered by the manufacturer’s
warranty, so it is extremely important that everyone be aware of the causes, symptoms
and solutions to thermal expansion in a closed water heating system.
58
RESIDENTIAL GAS AND ELECTRIC WATER HEATER
SERVICE HANDBOOK
SYMPTOMS
GENERAL
THE FIX
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
BULLETIN 52
LEAKING TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
• Water seeping around the relief valve tank connection
• Leakage at the threaded portion of the relief valve connection
• Intermittent weeping and/or dribbling from the relief valve
• Large volume of hot water sporadically discharged from the relief valve
The temperature and pressure relief valve (T & P) is a safety device limiting temperature and
pressure levels in a water heater. Each T & P has both a temperature and pressure rating.
Normally, the temperature and pressure relief valve will have a temperature rating for 210°F. A
probe (part of the relief valve) extends into the tank measuring the stored water temperature.
This probe must be within the top six inches of the water heater. However, if the water heater’s
thermostat malfunctions, higher than normal water temperatures could be produced. Once the
probe senses a temperature exceeding its temperature rating, the relief valve will open to full
capacity releasing “very hot” water until the temperature is below its reset temperature.
The pressure rating on the relief valve should be the same or less than the certified working
pressure of the tank (generally 150 psi) and be below the lowest pressure rating of any system
components. It is not acceptable to install a relief valve that exceeds the maximum working
pressure of the water heater. Once the pressure in the tank reaches the valve’s pressure rating,
it will slightly open relieving the pressure. Relieving of pressure can be noted as “dribbling” or
“weeping” water from the relief valve.
If an incorrectly sized temperature and pressure relief valve is installed, the warranty will be
void.
•Seeping at the spud of the water heater
repairable. The heater should be replaced.
•Leakage at the threaded relief valve connection
connection.
•Intermittent weeping and/or dribbling at the relief valve
slowly when actuating on pressure. A closed system can cause pressure to increase in the
system. This condition is called thermal expansion. For additional information regarding
thermal expansion please see Bulletin 45.
•Large volume of hot water sporadically discharged from the relief valve
relieves water quickly when actuating on temperature. The only cause of this problem is a
malfunctioning thermostat.
- Spuds are welded to the tank and are not
- Remove relief valve and reseal
- The relief valve relieves water
- The relief valve
A.O. Smith Water Products Company Training Department