AEG-Electrolux GIBSON MEMPHIS User Manual

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OWNER’S MANUAL
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©2003 Gibson Guitar Corp.
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To the new Gibson owner:
Congratulations on the purchase of your new Gibson electric guitar – the world’s most famous electric guitar from the leader of fretted instruments.
Please take a few minutes to acquaint yourself with the information in this booklet regarding materials, electronics, “how to,” care, maintenance and more about your guitar.
And then begin enjoying a lifetime of music with your new Gibson.
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The Components of a Hollow or Semi-hallowbody Guitar 4 Gibson Innovations 6 The History of Gibson Electric Guitars 8
Care and Maintenance
Finish 21 Your Guitar on the Road 21 Things to Avoid 22 Strings 23 Install your Strings Correctly 24 String Gauge 25 Brand of Strings 25
Design and Construction
Body 14 Neck and Headstock 14 Pickups 15 Controls 17 Bridge 19 Tailpiece 20
TABLE OF CONTENTS
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Strap
Button
Hinged
Tailpiece
Bridge
THE COMPONENTS
OF THE
ELECTRIC GUITAR
Featuring an ES-175
in Antique Natural
12th Fret
Marker/Inlay
Neck
Fret
Nut Headstock
Fingerboard
Tuning
Key
Machine
Head
Truss Rod
Cover
Pickguard
Lead or Bridge
Pickups
Body
Bridge Pickups
Tone and
Volume
Input Jack
Three-way
Toggle Switch
Binding
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Rhythm or
Neck Pickup
Neck Pickups
Tone and
Volume
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THE COMPONENTS
OF THE
ELECTRIC GUITAR
Featuring an ES-345
in Faded Red
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Stopbar
Tailpiece
Tune-o-matic
Bridge
12th Fret
Marker/Inlay
Neck
Fret
Nut Headstock
Fingerboard
Tuning
Key
Machine
Head
Truss Rod
Cover
Pickguard
Pickups
Body
Tone
Controls
Strap
Button
Binding
Volume
Controls
Varitone
Mono
Jacks
Stereo
Jacks
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Here are just a few of the Gibson innovations that have reshaped the guitar world:
1894 – First archtop guitar
1922 – First ƒ- hole archtop, the L-5
1936 – First professional quality electric guitar,the ES-150
1947 – P-90 single-coil pickup introduced
1948 – First dual-pickup Gibson, the ES-300
1949 – First three-pickup guitar,the ES-5
1949 – First hollowbody electric with pointed cutaway, the ES-175 1952 – First Gibson solidbody guitar,the Les Paul
1955 – First thinline hollowbody,the ES-225T
1957 – First humbucking pickup
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1958 – Flying V and Explorer introduced
1958 – First semi-hollowbody guitar,the ES-335
1961 – SG body style introduced
1963 – Firebird guitars and Thunderbird basses introduced
1973 – Les Paul Signature with low-impedance pickups introduced
1979 – ES-Ar tist with active electronics introduced
1981 – ES-335 DOT reissue introduced
1982 – First solidbody acoustic , the Chet Atkins CE
1999 – Gibson ES-Series production moves to Memphis
2002 – Gibson Digital Electric Guitar introduced
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A BRIEF HISTORY OF GIBSON ELECTRIC GUITARS
Gibson’s legendar y acoustic engineer, Lloyd Loar, was experimenting with electric instruments in 1924, at the dawn of electronic amplification. However, Gibson’s struggle to dominate the banjo market took precedence through the 1920s,and it wasn’t until the mid-1930s that the company once again turned its attention to electric guitars.In 1935, Gibson’s Walt Fuller designed a pickup that was introduced on the E-150, an aluminum-body lap steel. Early in 1936, the pickup was put in a midline archtop model and named the ES-150 – ES for Electric Spanish,150 for the retail price of $150 for the guitar and amplifier set.
The original ES-150 bar pickup with its hexagonal housing is now known as the “Charlie Christian” pickup,because it was installed on the ES-150s and ES-250s that Christian used to establish the new concept of electric jazz guitar.
Gibson made several improvements in pickup design before World War II, although many play ers still consider the “Christian” pickup to be the best jazz pickup ever made.
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Immediately after World War II, Gibson introduced the P-90 single-coil, with six adjustable polepieces and a black plastic cover, usually with “dog-ear” mounting extensions.The P-90 is still in production and still sets the industry standard for a single-coil pickup.
The first postwar Gibson electrics followed the prewar concept of an electric guitar as a conventional acoustic archtop with a pickup installed on the top. Gibson added a second pickup to the ES-300 in 1948 and then became the first company to offer a three-pickup model with the introduction of the ES-5 in 1949.
Although the advantages of a solidbody guitar had been exploited by Hawaiian steel guitarists for almost twenty years, it took the persuasive powers of Les Paul, the world’s most famous guitarist in the early 1950s, to convince Gibson to make a “Spanish style” solidbody. Gibson designed the new model with a carved top, not only to give it the look of a traditional archtop – a style invented by Gibson – but
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also to make it difficult for other makers to copy. Les, who had been playing a homemade solidbody guitar, nicknamed The Log, since 1941, specified a maple top cap to increase sustain,coupled with a mahogany back to lighten the weight.Les also specified the famous “goldtop” finish.
The Les Paul Model debuted in 1952.The bridge and tailpiece were upgraded when Gibson introduced the patented tune-o-matic bridge in 1954,and the original single­coil pickups were upgraded with the introduction of Gibson’s patented humbuckers in 1957. Otherwise , the original Les Paul is essentially the same guitar today as it was when it was introduced.
As the Les Paul Model expanded to a line of four distinct models (and eventually to over 100),Gibson pushed ahead with more innovations for the electric guitar. Gibson engineer Seth Lover developed and patented a double-coil pickup that eliminated the “hum” or electrical interference caused by rheostats and florescent lights.Introduced
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in 1957, this powerful new “humbucking” pickup would shape the sound of rock and roll music in the 1960s.
In 1958, Gibson introduced more important design innovations than in any other year in the company’s history.Gibson president Ted McCar ty combined the look of an ƒ-hole archtop with the performance of a solidbody and came up with a completely new type of guitar – the semi-hollowbody ES-335.McCarty also designed two radically modern solidbody shapes: the Flying V and Explorer. The body of the Les Paul Jr. received a pair of rounded horns to become Gibson’s first double­cutaway solidbody. And the finish color on the Les Paul Model was changed to Cherry Sunburst, which let the grain of the maple top show through. The model name was changed to Les Paul Standard, and the sunburst Standards from 1958-60 would become some of the most valuable collectibles in the guitar world.All of this happened in 1958.
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Only the semi-hollowbody ES -335 was immediately successful.The traditional look of an arched top with ƒ- holes balanced nicely with the contemporary styling of the thinbody, double -cutaway design. Under the top, however, the ES-335 had a solid block of maple extending the length of the body, which eliminated the feedback of conventional hollowbody electrics and gave the 335 the sustaining performance of a solidbody guitar.
The ES-335’s versatility appealed across the board, to pop,rock and blues guitarists, and by the end of 1958, Gibson introduced a fancier, gold-plated semi-hollowbody, the ES-355. A year later, with the appearance of the midline ES-345, the 355 was upgraded with stereo electronics and a Varitone – a five-position tone control.
Beginning in the 1960s, Gibson’s hollow and semi-hollow lines feature signature models from such influential and popular musicians as Johnny Smith,Barney Kessel, Tal Farlow,Trini Lopez and Les Paul.
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In the 1980s, bluesmaster B.B. King and “Mr.Guitar” Chet Atkins joined the list of signature artists.
In 1999 Gibson opened the Beale St. Showcase, a multi-purpose facility in Memphis that includes manufacturing facilities for all of Gibson’s regular-production hollowbody and semi-hollowbody electric models, plus a performance venue, museum,a retail shop,catering service and factor y tours. For more information visit gibsonmemphis.com.
As Gibson celebrated the 50th anniversary of the Les Paul in 2002, the company rocked the guitar world once again by introducing the first digital electric guitar.It represents the biggest advance in electric guitar design since the instrument was invented,and moreover,it serves notice that Gibson electric guitars will continue to epitomize the highest levels of Quality, Prestige and Innovation.
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DESIGN AND CONSTR UCTION Body. Gibson’s ES-Series guitars have top, back and rims of a maple-poplar-maple laminate.The
three-ply construction allows for traditional arched shaping of the top and back and makes for a lighter body without sacrificing strength. Traditional models, such as the ES-175, have a fully hollow body.The ES-335 style double-cutaway models have a solid maple centerblock between the top and back. The single-cutaway semi-hollowbodies,such as the ES-135 and ES-137 have a solid mahogany centerblock.These different designs and materials result in subtle differences in resonance and sustain.
Neck and headstock.Gibson uses both mahogany and maple necks on ES-Series models.The
historic ES-175 and ES-335 styles have a traditional mahogany neck.Newer models,such as the ES-135,ES-137, Chet Atkins Country Gentleman and Tennessean, and the B.B. King Lucille, have a maple neck.The denser maple neck enhances sustain and brightness of tone. Fingerboards are of ebony or rosewood.
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Neck Specifications.
Width of fingerboard at nut
Chet Atkins Countr y Gentleman and Tennessean:1 3/4" All other models: 1 11/16"
Frets
Chet Atkins Countr y Gentleman: 21 ES-175, Herb Ellis ES-165: 20 All other models: 22
Scale length
Chet Atkins Countr y Gentleman and Tennessean,B.B. King "Little Lucille": 25 1/2" All other models: 24 3/4"
Pickups. Humbucking (double-coil): Most Gibsons have double-coil humbucking pickups, which
were designed to do what their name says:“buck” the hum caused by florescent lights,rheostats and other electrical interference. They accomplish this with two coils of wire, wound in opposite directions so that they cancel out interference.In addition, they produce a powerful
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sound that is the foundation of rock and roll music.Gibson produces humbuckers in a variety of subtle variations, achieved by the use of different magnets and different combinations of winding turns.In addition,some models have humbuck ers without the metal co v er pieces,which results in a hotter signal. For individual model and humbucking pickup specs, please refer to Gibson’s website , www.gibson.com.
P-90 (single-coil): Only a few Gibsons are fitted with single-coil P-90 pickups. Some have the
original “dog-eared” covers; those without the "dog ears" are nicknamed “soapbar” because the cream-colored covers on the 1952 Les Paul Model resembled bars of soap.When the P-90 was was introduced in 1946,it was the most powerful pickup of its kind.And it still is.The B.B.King “Little Lucille” has specially designed P-90s called Blues 90 pickups,along with a dummy pickup coil to give it humbucking functionality. Among the many examples of the P-90 sound are Scotty Moore’s ES-295 on Elvis Presley’s first recordings and Tracy Chapman’s ES-125T on “Give Me One Reason.”
Pickup adjustments. Although the pickups on each guitar are set to Gibson standards at the
factory,they can be adjusted.The height of the pickup can be adjusted by the two screws found
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at either end of the pickup,in the mounting ring. Individual string volume can be adjusted by turning the polepiece screws.Bringing the pickup or pole screw closer to the strings makes the signal stronger or “hotter.”
Controls. The standard Gibson electronic configuration is two pickups, four knobs and a
pickup selector switch. The four knobs provide individual tone and volume control for each pickup.Models with only three knobs provide individual volume and master tone control. Single pickup models have only two knobs – for volume and tone control – and no pickup selector.
Volume controls: The two knobs closest to the fingerboard control volume . The volume knob
nearest the bridge controls the “rhythm” or neck pickup; the knob nearest the edge of the guitar controls the “lead” or bridge pickup.
Tone controls: The knob or knobs far thest away from the fingerboard control tone. The tone
knob nearest the bridge controls the “rhythm” or neck pickup; the knob nearest the edge of the guitar controls the “lead” or bridge pickup.
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The tone controls are the “treble roll off ” or “cut” variety. The tonal quality of the instrument is darkened by the reduction of treble rather than the addition of bass. The tone control turned all the way counterclockwise results in maximum reduction of treble and produces the “darkest” sound. The tone control turned clockwise to its maximum position allows the pickup’s full harmonic frequencies to pass through, producing the guitar’s brightest sound.
Pickup selector switch: The selector switch has three positions. The position toward the neck
selects only the “front” or neck pickup.The position toward the bridge of the guitar selects only the “back” or bridge pickup.The middle position engages both pickups. The tone and volume controls will only be active when the corresponding pickup is selected. On models with three pickups, the selector switch activates the front pickup (front position), the middle and back pickup together (middle position), and the back pickup (back position).
Varitone:
The rotary Varitone control is a progressive mid-range filter. The original Varitone, introduced in 1959 on the ES-355,had five settings and was always engaged.Today’s Varitone has an additional setting to bypass the control altogether.Setting 1 is the bypass.Setting 2 reduces the mid-range tone slightly. It is reduced more at setting 3 and so on to the maximum at setting 6.
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Stereo: Some models have two jacks, for Mono or Stereo signal. For normal play, use a standard
guitar cord from the Mono jack.For stereo output,a “Y cord” is required.The Y-cord plugs into the Stereo jack and splits the signal into two channels, with one pickup per channel, which can be connected to two different amplifiers.Note:Plugging two separate cords into the Mono and Stereo jacks will not result in stereo output.
The Tune-o-matic Bridge.The Tune-o-matic bridge allows for adjustment in overall bridge
height and individual string length. Height is adjustable up and down by means of thumb nuts under the bridge at either end. Each string saddle is adjustable forward and back with a small standard screwdriver. Action adjustment (up and down) is set at the factor y to the correct height for playing comfort and for buzz-free action.Raising the bridge will r esult in stiff er action; lowering the bridge will result in faster action but may also result in fret buzz. Climatic or humidity changes, or changes in string gauge, may necessitate a bridge adjustment.
Any change – in bridge height, string gauge or climate – can affect the intonation and cause a guitar to play out of tune in some fret positions.When this happens,the string length needs to be adjusted,and this is accomplished by moving the individual saddles forward (toward the neck)
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or backward (toward the tailpiece). The screw heads are on the pickup side of the bridge, although there are many Gibsons that have the screw heads facing the tailpiece. To check intonation,compare the pitch of a string that is fretted at the 12th fret against the harmonic at the 12th fret (accomplished by touching the string lightly with the left hand,without pressing it all the way to the fret). If the fretted note is higher than the harmonic, the string should be lengthened by moving the saddle toward the tailpiece until the two notes are the same . If the fretted note is lower than the harmonic the string length should be increased.
The tune-o-matic bridge was designed to adjust for string changes (gauge or type) and other physical changes but not for problems with intonation due to string wear.Should a string lose its intonation due to wear, we strongly recommend changing the string and not the bridge setting.
Tailpiece.
Most Gibson Memphis models are fitted with a stopbar tailpiece that is mounted into the top of the guitar. It may be adjusted up or down to change the down pressure across the bridge. There is usually no need to adjust the stopbar unless the strings are moving out of the saddles,in which case the stopbar should be lowered. A few models are fitted with a vintage-style hinged or “trapeze” tailpiece that extends to the strap button area of the rim and is not adjustable.
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Finish. A Gibson instrument always attracts attention,whether it is on a concert stage before
thousands or on a guitar stand in a home studio. Next to the classic body lines of a Gibson, the finish makes the strongest impression.
Perspiration acids,heavy fingerprinting,dust and grime from on-the-job usage are unavoidable. However, a minute or two spent with Gibson’s instrument care products – polish, fretboard conditioners, string cleaner/lubricant and polishing cloth – will restore a finish to like-new condition.
Gibson’s nitro- cellulose lacquer finish is also easily repairable – by a professional – so that minor scratches and dings can be fixed without completely refinishing the instrument.
Keeping your guitar on the road. Your Gibson is a durable instrument.It is likely to outlive
you – if you take care of it. In determining what conditions might be harmful to your guitar, the rule of thumb is, if you are comfortable, then your guitar will be comfortable . Here are some conditions to avoid:
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
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Heat and cold: Gibson’s nitrocellulose finish can expand or contract to adjust to extreme
temperatures but not to sudden changes in temperature or humidity. Just as a hot drink will crack a chilled glass,the finish of a Gibson will crack if a guitar that has been sitting in the trunk of a car in wintertime is suddenly exposed to the warm air of a heated room.In these conditions, let the guitar warm up gradually inside the case before opening the case.
Humidity: Sudden changes in humidity, caused by leaving your guitar next to a source of dry heat, for
example, can also cause uneven expansion or contraction of the wood, resulting in finish cracks.
Note: Gibson's warranty does not cover finish damage.
Rain: Water wipes off the instrument’s finish easily, but if allowed to remain, it can cause ugly water spots
in the lacquer.
Sun: Avoid direct rays of the sun on your Gibson. Direct sunlight can blister or discolor the finish.
More things to avoid.Guitar stands with black rubber supports can leave a black stain on
your guitar that goes through the lacquer finish and into the wood.These stains are permanent. Use a guitar stand with natural-colored rubber whenever possible.If you do use a stand with black rubber, do not leave the guitar on the stand for extended lengths of time.
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When using a shoulder strap for a standing playing position,check that all contact points and strap fasteners are secure.
Avoid sharp blows to any part of your instrument.Be particularly alert to possible blows to the back of the peghead, machine head (tuners) and in the neck heel area.
Should major adjustments become necessary,contact your local authorized Gibson dealer or service center.
Strings. Fresh strings are a vital part of that “new instrument” sound. When strings begin to
go dead,a guitar loses its edge, and as the strings undergo fur ther wear and tear they begin to sound dull and out of tune. Your Gibson will sound its best with new strings.
How often should you change strings? That depends on how much you play your guitar, how hard you play and also on your individual body chemistr y.Some professional musicians change strings before every show in order to maintain the sharpest edge on their sound.More casual
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players may only need to change strings every month or two. For some players, even light perspiration shortens the life of their strings. The sound of the strings is the only sure way to judge whether or not they need to be changed. And if one string needs to be changed, the others can’t be far behind.To maintain tonal balance , change the whole set.
Use high quality strings. The most obvious action you can take to maximize the life and
performance of your strings is to use high quality strings.Your Gibson comes from the factory with a set of strings made by Gibson and designed exclusively for Gibsons. Although the string set from the Gibson factory is suitable for virtually any style of music. Gibson offers a variety of string styles and gauges for specialized purposes.
Install your strings correctly. Improperly installed strings can slip, which will cause your
Gibson to constantly go out of tune. To correctly install strings:
1. Be certain the first winding of the string around the machine head stem (tuner post) goes
over the exposed tip of the new string.The rest of the winding should then go under the
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exposed tip of the new string. When pressure is applied by tightening the string to pitch, a clamping action keeps the string from slipping around the machine head stem.
2. Be certain the string is wrapped around the machine head stem an adequate number of
times. For unwound strings, at least five turns around the machine head stem are necessary. For wound strings,two or three turns are adequate.
What gauge strings should be used? Your guitar is strung at the factory with “10’s” – which means
the high-E string is .010 inches in diameter. The low-E is .046 inches in diameter. The set is designed so that all six strings have the same amount of tension,ensuring that the action and the volume will be consistent across the entire fingerboard. Gibson offers “9’s”, “11’s” and a variety of other string gauges and compositions,all of which are balanced for consistent tension.
What brand of strings should be used? Gibson has been making its own strings since 1907, and
Gibson has more experience than any other string maker when it comes to matching strings to Gibson guitars. Gibson strings are manufactured to exacting standards to achieve the highest level of quality and performance.
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A LIFETIME OF MUSIC
Your Gibson electric guitar is a lifetime investment. With proper care, it will not only maintain its value as a top­quality instrument, it will also continue to pay musical dividends for generations to come.
Your investment in the world’s finest electric guitar is supported by the #1 Customer Service team in the musical instrument industry. To contact a Gibson Customer Service Representative call 1.800.4GIBSON or email us at service@gibson.com.
For more information on Gibson products and accessories, please visit www.gibson.com or call 1.800.4GIBSON.
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145 Lt. George W. Lee Ave. Memphis, TN 38103
USA 1.800.4GIBSON www.gibson.com
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