Aeg-electrolux AFUERA User Manual

Do-It-

Yourself
Planning &
Installation

Manual

for your new

AFUERA

TM

Central

Cleaning

System

Before you start, read these instructions
thoroughly.You will be pleased to learn that a
central cleaning system is surprisingly easy
to install, and will provide you with years of
trouble-free enjoyment. All central cleaning
systems may be installed in either existing
or new construction. In either case, the num­ber of inlets required and their locations
must be determined before starting the
installation.

STEP 1: Choose the Valve Locations

Choose central locations for inlet valves in order to
cover the maximum area with the deluxe 30 foot
(9m) length hose. Usually several rooms (or The

Entire Main Floor) can be
serviced from a single inlet
valve (Fig. 1). There is an
inlet valve on the power unit
itself, and this feature often
reduces, by one, the num­ber of inlets required. Since
floor plans are normally
drawn to 1/4" scale (1 to
50cm), a 7-inch (18cm)
piece of string or beaded

chain will help to determine
inlet valve locations and hose coverage using the
floor plans of the construction. If the building is exist­ing or under construction, use a 30 foot (9m) tape or
rope. Be sure every inch of floor, wall, closet, and
ceiling can be reached, bearing in mind the hose
may have to reach around large pieces of furniture.
Good locations are centrally located in hallways or
closet walls near doorways. Inlets should be
installed near an electrical outlet (no more than 6 ft.
(1.82m) away). This would allow the use of an elec­tric hose without using a drop cord. Caution—Do
not place inlet valves where a door slides in the
wall,behind possible furniture, or behind open
doors. In existing homes, consider whether you will
want floor inlets or wall inlets. Floor valves are more
easily installed than wall valves and sometimes are
the only practical installation. They have some dis­advantages as the hose must be inserted at the floor
level rather than at a more convenient wall height.
Wall height is a matter of individual preference.
Some homeowners prefer the inlet at a convenient

fingertip height (about 30 inches (76cm)), while oth­ers want it to match the electric outlet height.

STEP 2: Choose Power Unit Location

The power unit can be mounted on almost any wall.
It should be out of the way , yet accessible, so the dirt
receptacle may be emptied. If you plan to exhaust
the power unit, locate it so piping can be run outside
conveniently. Venting over 10 ft. (3m) is not recom­mended. You will need to plug your power unit into
an electric outlet with no other loads on the circuit or
you may want to run a separate 15 amp. circuit.

STEP 3: Plan the Tube System

Plan the entire tubing installation from the power unit
to the desired location of the valve(s) (Fig. 2). It is
best to run tubing under the floor in structures with
basements or adequate crawl space. In locations
with no under-floor access, tubing may be run “up”

to the attic and over
to the power unit
using the same pre­cautions and basic
procedures as with a
“down” system. In 2­or 3-story existing
structures, tubing
can be run to upper
levels, through
clothes chutes, back
corners of closets,
under stairways,

beside soil
pipes, beside chimneys, or in partition walls before
the drywall goes on. The system that uses the least
amount of bends and tubing should be used.
STEP 4: Tools Required
a) 1/2" (1.3cm) Electric Drill
b) 2-1/4" (5.7cm) Hole Saw or Cutter
c) Steel Tape Measure
d) Screwdriver (Phillips)
e) Screwdriver (Common Blade)
f) Wire Cutters
g) Common Hacksaw or Small Handsaw
h) Hammer i) Masonry Drill Bit
j) Chisel k)Pocket Knife

l) Metal Coat Hanger m)Electrical Tape

n) Razor Knife

A. How to Plan Your New Central Cleaning System

STEP 1: Installing Inlet Valves

a) Wall Valves in Existing Structure

Determine as closely as possible desired location
of inlet valve. Drill a small pilot hole in the floor
directly below the proposed valve location. A
straight length of coat hanger wire, cut at an
angle, makes a good pilot hole drill bit, but, be
careful not to snag carpeting. Leave straightened
length of coat hanger wire through this pilot hole
to serve as locator and guide point (Fig. 3).
From beneath floor, measure over from pilot hole

to
locate the center of the sole plate.
NOTE: You may want to drill a 3/4" (1.9cm)
inspection hole to avoid drilling into the bottom of
a stud or other “inner-wall” obstruction. Drill a 2­1/4" (5.7cm) diameter hole through the center of
the sole plate. Using a flashlight or probe, inspect
the interior of the wall to be sure there are no
obstructions.

NOTE: The opening you are going to cut in the
wall for the inlet valve should be located between
studs, clear of obstructions such as plumbing,
wiring, heat ducts, etc. Minimum stud width for
sufficient clearance for inner-wall mounting­bracket assembly is 2-3/4" (7cm). (See Fig. 3
above.)

b) Using METAL Stud-Mounting Bracket

Centered at the desired height above floor level,
cut an almost square opening 2-3/4" (7cm) wide
by 2-1/2" (6.35cm) high in the wall directly above

the 2-1/4" (5.7cm) sole plate hole. Cut or file two
3/4" (1.9cm) high triangular pieces above and
below the almost square opening so that your wall
opening exactly resembles (Fig. 4). Insert top
screw only through inlet valve and gently squeeze

inlet valve stem
into bracket
assembly until
you are able to
just start top
screw threads in
bracket assem­bly hole.
Now cut or break
off “New
Construction”

section from
metal wall mounting bracket and glue a 90 degree
dual elbow to the
pre-riveted
adapter ring
(Fig. 5). Strip the
low-volt wire and
tape it to the 90
degree dual elbow
with approximately
6 inches (15.3cm)
sticking through
wire guide hole.
Join two inlet valve
wires with wire
connectors sup­plied. Attach a
small weight to the
other end of the
low-volt wire and drop
the weighted wire
through the opening
in wall. Allow wire and
weight to hang
through sole plate
(Fig. 6).

B. How to Install Your New Central Cleaning

System