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Preface and General Safety Notes
Part 1: Operating Instructions Cl. 558
1. Product Description
1.1 Short Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.2 Sub-classes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
1.3 Technic al Speci fication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
1.4 Sewing Devic es . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
1.4.1 Device Summary Table and Function Characteristics 578 E... /... . . . 9
1.4.2 Device Summary Table and Function Characteristics 558 E ... / ... . . . 11
1.5 Optional Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
2. Operation
2.1 Removal and Placement o f the Clamp Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
2.2 Turnin g On - Quick Stop - Restart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
2.3 End Position of the Sewing Machine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
2.4 Needles, Threads and Gimps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
2.5 Threading of the Underthread (Hook Thread) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
2.6 Threading the G imps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
2.7 Threading of the Upper Thread (Needle Thread) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
2.8 Thread Tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
2.9 Sewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
2.1 0 Blocking the Clamp Lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
2.11 Buttonhole Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
2.1 2 Cutti ng Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
2.1 3 Cutti ng Blocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
2.1 4 Cutti ng Pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
2.1 5 Spreading of t he Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
2.16 Sti tch Density . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
2.17 Seam Width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
2.18 Buttonhole Fo rm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
2.19 Changeover to Cutting Before or After Sewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
3. Maintenance
3.1 Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
3.2 Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
3.3 Oiling Positions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
4. Malfunction Remedies
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
5. Optional Equipment Electromagnetic Upper Thread Catcher
5.1 General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
5.2 Electrical Conn ection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
5.3 Function Sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
5.4 Turn-on Interlocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
5.5 Setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
5.5. 1 Lift of the Electromag net . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
5.5.2 Base Position of the Upper Thread Catcher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
5.5.3 Lowering Movement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
5.5.4 Gripping Movement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
5.5 .5 Switc hes for the Upper Th read Catcher Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
5.6 Attachment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
5.6.1 Pre-assembling the Wiring Distributor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
5.6.2 Laying the Wiring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
5.6 .3 Control Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
5.6 .4 Mounting Switch b 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
5.6 .5 Mounting the Switching Rail for Switch b2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
5.6.5 Mounting the Upper Thread Catcher on the Machine Arm . . . . . . . . . 104
. . . . . 79
The illustrations used in these instructions are of differing sub-classes of the
buttonhole machine 558 !
Please note that your buttonhole may deviate from the illustrations !
1. Product Description
1.1 Short Description and Proper Use
The
DÜRKOPP ADLER 558
Buttonholes with or without eye and with or without taper bar can be sewn.
The buttonhole form i s determined by 2 exchangeable disc cams with
•
corresponding knives. The upper disc cam determines the form of the eye. The disc
cam lying thereunder determines for buttonholes with taper bar the taper bar form
and the buttonhole length.
The smallest and largest butto nhole width for each sewing device (E no.) is
•
established by the position of the lim i t plate.
Pendulum swing of the needle bar from the rest position one-sided to the right
•
when sewing the right and one-sided to the left when sewing the left buttonhole
seam.
Automatic adaption of the upper cloth clamp pressure to differing material
•
thicknesses th rough spring -hangered clamp frame.
The safety devices do no t have to be removed when ti l ting up the mac h i ne.
•
The combined finger-eye protection device increases safety.
•
It is held in the work position by springs.
The gas pressure spring aids tilting up and effects a sure, slow lowering. The stop
•
position makes an unhindered threading of the hook thread possible.
The machine is equipped with a central oil wick lubrication from 2 oil reservoirs
•
(the positions marked in red must also be oi led).
In the next chapter the individual sub-classes are described.
is a double chain stitch buttonh ol e machine.
5
1.2 Sub-classes
558 - 211241
With automatic trimmers.
The upper thread, the underthread and the gimp fed in from the bottom are cut so short
that no thread ends are vi si ble. Cleaning is unnecessary.
Cutting open the buttonhole after sewing.
Cutting length 20 mm
558 - 221301
With automatic trimmers.
The upper thread is cut off short. The underthread and the gimp fed in from the bottom
are cut off l ong (about 30 m m).
Cutting open the buttonhole depending on E no. before or after sewing, as desired.
This sub-class has the electromagnetic upper thread catcher as standard equipment.
Cutting length 10...38 mm
558 - 231391
With automatic trimmer.
Only the upper thread is cut short. The sewing piece can be easily removed from the
sewing position or, with buttonholes lying in a row, simply pulled a bit to the left. The
underthread and the lower gimp are then trimmed by hand.
With this sub-class the sewing pi ece is positioned 12 mm further forward than with
-221301 and -251301.
Cutting open of the buttonhole, depending on the E no., as desired, before or after
sewing.
Cutting length 10...38 mm
558 - 241291
The sewing piece is positioned 9.5 mm further forward than with sub-classes -221301
and - 251301. This means a better view and more freedom when positioning the sewing
pieces.
With automatic trimmers.
The upper thread, the underthread and the gimp fed in from the bottom are trimmed so
short t hat no thread ends are visible. No cleaning is necessary.
Cutting open the buttonhole after sewing.
Cutting length dependent on the length package 14...32 mm
558 - 251301
With automatic trimmer.
Only the upper thread is cut short. The sewing piece can be easily removed from the
sewing position or, with the buttonholes lying in a row, simply pulled a bit to the left. The
underthread and the lower gimp are then trimmed by hand.
Cutting open the buttonhole can be switched between cutting before or after sewing.
Cutting length 10...50 mm
6
1.3 T echnical Specification
Number of stitches: 1.650 Stitches/min
Type of stitch: Double chain stitch
Sewing length: max. 50 mm
Cutting length: max. 50 mm
Needle system: 558
Needle thickness: Nm 90...110
Looping stroke: 2.7...3.2 mm
Material thicknesses: max. 10 mm with sub-class -221301
Sewing thread th ickness: Upper thread max. Nm 50
Nominal voltage: - 2410591 3 ~ 400 V + N, 50/60 Hz
Noise: Lc = 80 dB (A)
Dimensions: (H x W x D) 1570 x 630 x 520 mm (Standard)
Weight: 128 kg (complete w i t h m achine head,
55 kg (only frame and motor)
Work height: 760...1060 mm (Top edge of table)
Depending on the type of sewing thread and the material.
Depending on the sewing device (E no.).
max. 12 mm with all othersub-classes
Underthread max. Nm 30
- 2410575 3 ~ 230 V, 5 0/60 Hz
- 2410540 1 ~ 230 V, 5 0 H z
- 2410478 1 ~ 230 V, 6 0 H z
The machine is de l i vered with one of the listed drive
packages appropriate to the nominal voltage.
by sewing cycle 5.0 s on an d 1.4 s off
to DIN 45635-48-B-1
1570 x 1060 x 520 mm (Wide model)
frame and motor)
7
1.4 Sewing Devices
The devices parts for the differen t butt onhole forms and cutting lengt hs are established
under device numbers (E no.’s).
After the E no. behind a slash the cutting length or the setting range in mm is given.
Example:
For sewing the various buttonhole len gths different cu tting blocks, cloth clamps and disc
cams are required. The appropriate or der numbers can be found in the device sheet for
the
.
558
The device summary table on the following page lists the currently available devices.
The most suitable device for a specific buttonhole form and a certain type of material
can be chosen quickly from the t a ble.
ATTENTION :
For the
558
For the
558
There are two di fferent groups of butto nhole machines:
578 E2107 / 20 or 578 E209 / 10 - 38
558 E209 / 10 - 38
after July 1994 the device numbers for the 578 apply ( Chapter 1.4.1 ).
up to June 1994 t he device numbers for the 558 apply ( Chapter 1.4.2 ).
Only cutting
Cutting
before or after
For conversion of the buttonhole machine to a further buttonhole form or cutting length
the following points are to be consi dered:
1. Only those parts are to be ordered and at tached whose o rder numbers do not agree
with those o f the device available.
See the device sheets for the 558 and the 578.
2. The cutting lengths can only be selected appropriate to the device or the setting
range.
By devices which have only one digit behind the slash the cutting length is not
adjustable.
3. By machines wh i ch are switched over to cutting before or aft er sewing, the
appropriate sections of these instructions are to be observed.
4. The setting values, buttonhole width and looping stroke, are interdependent and must
be observed when changin g to another device (E no.).
If values deviating fr om the table arise, the adaption is to be made by a special i st as
per the Service Instructions.
after
sewing.
sewing as desired.
8
mm mm mm mm
for width area stroke
Cutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Looping
before after min. max.
Buttonhole form
Gimp long
20 Under th., Gimp
10 - 38
Buttonholes similar to E209 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,0
handworked quality 10 - 38 Under thread,
High quality clothing of E212 / E213 / V <-- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,4 2,7
variing thicknesses 10 - 38 10 - 38
Loose, coarse weave cloth
Buttonholes similar to handworked E309 / ---> N Upper thread 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,0
quality in outerwear 18 + 24
Small buttonholes in elastic material E311 / * ---> N " 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,2
(e.g. knitware) with round or flat gimp 6 - 34
Materials of variing quality and E312 / E312 / V <--- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,4 2,7
Garment leather E327 / V <--- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,6 3,2
Waistbands on jeans, E328 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 3,0
graduated cloth clamps 16 - 20
Fine, tightly woven materials E334 / V <--- " 6,0 7,0 - 2,7
(e.g. poplin) 10 - 38
558 Material
1.4.1 Device Summary Table and Function Characteristics 578 E . . . / . . .
- 211241 Loose, coarse weave cloth E2107 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7
- 221301
- 231391 thickness 10 - 38 12 - 34
* The construction set upper gimp guide 578 5101 must be ordered additionally.
9
for width area stroke
Cutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Looping
mm mm mm mm
before after min. max.
Buttonhole form
10
558 Nähgut
L1 - L3 Under th., Gimp
Loose, coarse weave cloth E2407 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7
L1 - L3
Buttonholes in elastic material
(e.g. knitware)
Waistbands on jeans and similar E2417 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 3,0
- 241291
Loose, coarse weave cloth, E2431 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7
plastic stitch formation L1 - L4
thickness 10 - 50 12 - 50
- 251301 Materials of variing quality and E512 / E512 / V <--- ---> N Upper thread 5,0 7,0 / 0,4 2,7
mm mm mm mm
for width area stroke
Cutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Looping
before after min. max.
Buttonhole form
Gimp long
20 Under th., Gimp
10 - 38
Buttonholes similar to E209 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,0
handworked quality 10 - 38 Under thread,
High quality clothing of E212 / E213 / V <-- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,4 2,7
variing thicknesses 10 - 38 10 - 38
Loose, coarse weave cloth
Buttonholes similar to handworked E309 / ---> N Upper thread 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,0
quality in outerwear 18 + 24
Small buttonholes in elastic material E311 / * ---> N " 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,2
(e.g. knitware) with round or flat gimp 6 - 34
Materials of variing quality and E312 / E312 / V <--- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,4 2,7
Garment leather E327 / V <--- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,6 3,2
Waistbands on jeans, E328 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 3,0
graduated cloth clamps 16 - 20
Fine, tightly woven materials E334 / V <--- " 6,0 7,0 - 2,7
(e.g. poplin) 10 - 38
558 Material
1.4.2 Device Summary Table and Function Characteristics 558 E . . . / . . .
- 11241 Loose, coarse weave cloth E107 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7
- 21301
- 31391 thickness 10 - 38 12 - 34
* The construction set upper gimp guide 578 5101 must be ordered additionally.
11
for width area stroke
Cutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Looping
mm mm mm mm
before after min. max.
Buttonhole form
12
558 Nähgut
L1 - L3 Under th., Gimp
Loose, coarse weave cloth E407 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7
L1 - L3
Buttonholes in elastic material
(e.g. knitware)
Waistbands on jeans and similar E417 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 3,0
- 41291
Loose, coarse weave cloth, E431 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7
plastic stitch formation L1 - L4
thickness 10 - 50 12 - 50
- 51301 Materials of variing quality and E512 / E512 / V <--- ---> N Upper thread 5,0 7,0 / 0,4 2,7
1.5 Optional Equipment
558 - 10012 Electromagnetically operated upper thread catcher
The electromagnetically operated upper thread catcher immediately after the thread
trimming procedure grips the upper thread. It holds this clamped and inserts it in the
right seam during sewing of the next buttonhole.
This means:
Secure seam b eginning even with lig ht , loose cloth.
•
Beginning sti tches pulled t i ght.
•
Neating the u nderside of the butt onhole is unnec es sary becaus e t he beginning
•
thread is sewn over.
The sub-class 558 - 221301 ha s t he upper thr ead catcher as standard equip ment. It is
available on request for all other sub-classes.
558 1501 Thread oiler
For improving thread glide in extremely thickness material.
557 1103 Gimps roller holder on the table top
For lower Gimps which are stiff and hard to bend.
558 3001 Thread unreeler, complete
For holding thread or wool cones. The attachment is to the middle traverse of the table
frame.
558 1731 Stop for buttonhole interval from 70 - 330 mm
App. 1062 Halogen sewing light
App. 1541 Mounting kit
798 500088 Sewing light transformer
Stops for the clearance between material edge and buttonhole are available in different
lengths on request.
13
1
4
2
3
2
5
6
7
2
8
9
7
2
8
9
10
14
10
2. Operation
2.1 Removal and Placement of th e Clamp Plates
Caution Risk of Injury !
Pull the mains plug.
Remove or place the clamp plates only with the machine
turned off.
The removal or placement of the clamp pl ates 3 and 5 occur s i n the machine end
position (see Chapter 2.3).
The clamp operating lever 1 must be open !
This is the case when it is pushed to the back until it hits.
ATTENTION !
In order to avoid damage to the needle the combined
finger-eye protection 4 must remain swung down.
Sub-class -231391 and -251301:
Removing the clamp plates
–
Swing the clamp plate holder 2 away to the side.
–
Reach under each nail slit 6 and lift the c l amp plate.
–
Remove the clamp plates to the front.
Placing the clamp plates
–
The clamp operators 8 must reach into the forks of the clamp arms.
–
Push the clamp plates to the right or left against the pressure screws 7 and plate
edges 9.
–
Place the clamp plates over the setbolt 10 on the material support plate.
–
Swing the clamp plates holder 2 back over the clamp plates.
The clamp plates are secured against li fting.
–
Check by closing the clamp operating lever 1 if the clamps open and close correctly.
15
-221301
1
1
2
3
-211241 und -241291
1
2
3
16
1
Sub-classes -211241, -221301 and -241291:
Removing the clamp plates
–
Swing the clamp plate holder 1 away to the side.
–
Pull the spring mounted slide 3 in the direction of the arrow and remove the right
clamp plate.
–
Reach under t he nail slit 2 and remove the left cl amp plate.
Placing the clamp plates
–
Place first the left, then the right clamp plate.
–
The clamp operators 5 must reach into the forks of the clamp arms.
–
Push the clamp plates to the right or left against the pressure screws 4 and plate
edges 6.
–
Place the clamp plates over the setbolt 7 on the the material support plate.
Hereby pull the spring mounted slide 3 in the direction of the arrow and let catch in
groove 8.
–
Swing the clamp plate holder 1 over the clamp plates again.
The clamp plates are secured against li fting.
–
Check by closing the clamp operating lever if the clamps op en and close correctly.
4
1
5
6
7
4
1
5
6
7
8
17
1
2
18
2.2 Turning On - Quick Stop - Restart
Caution Risk of Injury !
Do not reach in to the area of m oving machine parts,
particularly not under the knife and t he cloth clam ps.
Turning on
Turn on the drive motor with the hand shift lever 1.
–
Loosen the ha nd shift lever 1 out of i ts catch by
bring into position
The catch prevents an unwanted turni ng on of the dri ve m ot or.
Turning off
Turn off the drive motor,
–
Place the hand shift lever 1 in position
The hand shift lever catches in this position.
–
Step forward on pedal 2.
.
"I"
as desired,
Caution Risk of Injury !
As long as the operator is not yet fa miliar with the machine,
she should turn off the motor with t he pedal or hand shift
lever after sewing each butt onhole.
restarting should occur only after the cloth has been
repositioned and the clamp are closed.
with the hand shift lever 1 or the pedal 2.
"0"
pulling up
.
on the ball head and
Quick stop
The safety system of the 558 has two possibilities for an
s
ewing process
–
Put the hand shift lever 1 in position
–
Step pedal 2 forward.
by operating errors or malfunctions (e.g. needle or thread breakage):
.
"0"
immediate stop during the
19
1 2
3
4
5
20
6
Restart
In order to avoid damage to the machine, when restarting after a quick stop it is
essential to proceed as follows:
–
Lift the idle lever 5 until it jumps off of the nose 4 of the length setting slide 6.
Attention !
This point is only to be carried out if the machine was turned off immediately after
the first sewing stitches.
–
Pull the turn-off lever 1 forward.
ATTENTION !
Before turning on the machine always bring th e needle into
the high posit i on by catching in the handwheel 3. A bending
of the needle or damage to the material is thus avoided.
Exception:
The handwheel m ay not , however, be turned at that
moment in which, after the end of the sewing sequence,
the cutting movement of the upper thread knife begins and
this lies under t he needle hole of the needle p l ate.
–
Tur n the handwheel 3 in the dir ection of the a rrow until it catches.
The handwheel is arrested in this position by brake lever 2.
The needle is in its highest position.
–
Open the clamp pl ates and remove material.
–
Close the clamp plates again.
–
Turn on the machine with the hand shift lever.
The material support plate moves to its end position.
The needle remains in its highest position.
ATTENTION !
Only turn the hand crank of the high-speed wheel when the
handwheel ha s caught in the direction of turn.
21
1
2
22
2.3 End Position of the Sewing Machine
–
Turn handwheel 2 u ntil it catches.
The needle is in its highest position.
ATTENTION !
Before turning the hand cran k i t is essential that the needle
be brought into its high position by moving the handwheel
into its catch.
A bending of the needle or damage to the material is thus
avoided.
Exception:
The handwheel m ay not , however, be turned at that
moment in which, after the end of the sewing sequence,
the cutting movement of the upper thread knife begins and
this lies under t he needle hole of the needle p l ate.
–
Turn the hand crank until the clamp closing lever 1 automatically opens the clamp
arms.
Depending on the setting of the machine to cutting
occurs before or after operation of the cutter bar 3.
–
The machine is in the end position.
before
or
after
sewing opening
3
23
2.4 Needles, T hreads and Gimps
T able: Threads and Gimps
1
2
Needle thread type
and thickness
Hook thread type
and thickness
Lower gimp type
and thickness
Upper gimp type
and thickness
24
558-221301
558-231391
558-251301
Polye ster fiber thread,
schappe-spun
70/3
Polye ster fiber thread,
schappe-spun
70/3
Tube or
wire gimp
not required
Sub-class
558-211241
558-241291
Polye ster fiber thread,
schappe-spun
70/3
Polye ster fiber thread,
schappe-spun
30/3
not required
Twist gi mp
15/3
Needles
Needle system: 558
Needle thickness: Nm 90 - 110
Replacing the needle
–
Swing up the combined fing er-eye protection.
The needle is accessable without hinderance.
–
Loosen screw 1 and remove the needle.
–
Push the new needle as far as possible into the hole in the needle bar 2.
Attention !
The furrow of the needle must show to the front with the machine in its end position.
–
Tighten screw 1 again.
–
Swing the com bi ned finger-eye protection back again .
Threads
As needle and hook thread, spun, synthetic fiber thread or silk thread can be used.
The appearance o f the buttonhole i s c onsiderably influenc ed by
–
the thread used.
–
the use of differe nt strengths for need l e and hook thread.
Dependent on type of sewing thread and material.
Caution Risk of Injury !
Pull the mains plug.
Replace the needle only with the machine turned off.
Gimps
The gimp should stabilize the buttonhole and at the same time by it form.
It should have the following character i stics:
–
not too thick, but pliable and firm
–
uniform diameter
The recommend ed threads and gimps i n t he table along si de are only guide li n es.
Dependent on sewing device (E no.) and mat erial other t hreads and th read thicknesses
may also be required.
25
a
b
c
26
e
d
c
2.5 Threading of the Underthread (Hook Thread)
Caution Risk of Injury !
Pull the mains plug.
Thread the underthread only with the machine turned off.
The threading of the underthreads 1 (Page 28) is conducted as shown in the
illustrations on pages 26 and 28
–
Bring the machine in its end position (see Chapter 2.3).
In the end position the hook bracket with the underthread te nsion must point t o the
front (to the seamstress).
–
Remove the clamp plates (see Chapter 2.1).
–
Tilt up the machine head.
The gas pressu re spring ai ds the tilting and holds the machine head i n i ts position.
–
Place the thread spool on the thread stand and guide the thread through hole a.
–
Guide the thread through the thread guide b in the thread guide tube c on the back
of the housing.
–
Guide the thread through the thread guide tube d.
–
Guide the thread with the ai d of the threading wire from the accessor i es pack into
the spreader drive spindle e.
For this insert the threading wire into the spreader drive spindle from above.
–
Lead the thread over the guide pin f and past behind the tension plate g.
–
Lead the thread between the t wo t ension discs of the underthread tensi on h up
over the guide pin i.
–
Guide the thread through the eye of the torsion spring k.
–
With sub-classes
through the hole of the br i ng-forward lever l.
–
Lead the thread up through the thread guide tube m.
–
Lead the thread through the spreader stop n.
–
Guide the thre ad from below through hole o in the hook an d needle hole p of the
needle plate. Hereby let an approx. 25 mm long underthread end hang out of the
needle hole.
-211241, -221301
in alphabetical order of the letters
and
-241291
additionally guide the thread
:
= Gimp thread (Page 28)
2
27
m
-231391
-251301
-211241
-221301
-241291
k
l
f
i
g
h
12
p
28
o
n
Path of the underthread when using yarn or wool cones:
If yarn or wool cones are used as hook thread then these are t o be set on the as
optional equipment available thread unreeler 1 (Order no. 558 3001) underneath the
table.
–
Lead the thread through the thread guides under the table.
–
Lead the thread up through the thread tub e.
–
The threading of the machine a bove th e t able is conducted as described above.
1
29
a
1
2
30
3
2.6 Threading the Gimp
Caution Risk of Injury !
Pull the mains plug.
Thread the lower an d upper gimp onl y w i th the machine
turned off.
–
Place tube and wire gimp rolls on the gimp roll holder 1.
Place the gimp rolls with crosswinding vertically on the yarn plate 2 for an easy pull
off of the gimp or thread.
–
For stiff and difficult to bend lower gimps choose the short feed over the as
optional equi pment available gimp roll holder 3 (Order no. 557 1103).
Lower gimp threading
The threading of the lower gimp is conducted as shown in the lllustrations on pages 30,
32 and 33
in the alphabetical order of the letters
:
Sub-classes -211241, -221301, -231391 and -251301
–
Remove the clamp plates (see Chapter 2.1).
–
Thread the gimp from the gimp r ol l holder 1 or the yarn plate 2 th rough hole a in
the thread stand.
–
Lead the gimp in order through the gimp guide b and the gimp guide tubes c and d.
–
Thread the gimp through gimp guide e.
–
With sub-class
Through the draw spring the loosening gimp thread is held taut during
simultaneous turning movement of the hook bracket and ope rat i on of the gripper
knife.
–
Thread the gimp through the g i m p hole g of the needle pl ate.
Allow an approx. 25 mm long gimp en d to hang out of t he gimp hole.
4 = Hook thread (Page 32)
5 = Gimp thread (Page 32)
–
Replace the clamp plates again (see Chapter 2.1).
-221301
the gimp must also be threa ded through the draw spring f.
:
31
b
c
45
d
e
f
g
32
Sub-class -241291
This sub-class is equipped with gimp pulling device.
Before the start of sewing it pulls the gimp back to the correct starting length.
For correct positioning see the Service Instructions.
–
Remove the clamp plates (see Chapter 2.1).
–
Tur n the hand crank drehen until the hook bracket reaches the position shown.
The gimp pulling device 1 faces forward (to the seamstress).
–
Lead the gimp 2 from the lower gimp roll holder 4 through the side recess a in the
machine housing.
3 = Hook thread
–
Thread the gimp through the holes of the gimp pulling device 1.
For threading through the hole b press the brake flap 5 lying behind a little to the
back.
–
Thread the gimp 2 through the holes of the gimp guide c and gimp hole d of the
needle plate.
With the gimp pulling device in low position let an approx. 4 mm long gimp end look
out of the gimp hole of the needle plate.
–
Replace the clamp plates again (see Chapter 2.1).
:
1
4a
2 3
d
c
b
5
1
33
a
b
c
34
d
f
e
Upper gimp threading
The feed of the uppe r gimp is possible wit h a gimp guider p l aced in front of t he needle.
The threading of the upper gimp is conducted as shown in the illustrations alongside
the alphabetical order of the letters:
–
Thread the gimp from the gimp roll holder a through gimp guide b.
–
Lead the gimp through the gimp guide angle c and between the tension discs of
the gimp pre-tensioning d.
–
Thread the gimp through the g i m p guide e and the gimp gui der f.
The assembly for round and flat gimps is available under the Order no.: 578 5101.
in
35
a
b
36
dih1g
ec f 2
2.7 Threading of the Upper Thread (Needle Thread)
Caution Risk of Injury !
Pull the mains plug.
Thread the upper thread only with the machine turned off.
The threading of the upper thread is conducted as shown in the illustrations on pages
36 and 38
–
–
–
–
–
–
–
–
–
in the alphabetical order of the letters:
Bring the mac hi ne into its end position (see Chapter 2.3).
In the end p osition the ho ok bracket with the und erthread tension must face
forward (to the seamstress).
Close the clamps with the aid of the clamp operating lever and swing up the
combined finger-eye protection.
The needle bar and needle are accessable unhindered.
Place the thread spool on the thread stand and guide the thread through hole a.
Guide the thread in order through the thread guide b and under th read guide c.
Lead the thread between the tension discs d of the upper thread tension and over
guide pin e.
Guide the thread through the hole of the lever f and the thread lever g.
Lead the thread through the thread gripper h and thread guide i.
Guide the thread with the ai d of the threading wire from the accessor i es pack
through nee dl e bar k.
Lead the thread past behind the tension disc of the pre-ten sioning l and through
the eye of the needle.
Subsequent pulling of the upper thread by hand
The upper thread is trimmed after the last stitch automatically.
For subsequent pulling of the upper thread:
–
Operate the release lever 2 or push button 1 and subsequently pull the upper
thread by hand.
37
k
l
38
Threading by difficult to unreel thread rolls
To achieve an easy pull off of the upper and underthread from the thread plate:
–
Additionally g ui de the underthread th rough the holes 1 and 2.
–
Additionally guide the upper thread through hole 3
1 2
3
39
1234
5 6 7
40
2.8 Thread T ension
Upper thread ten sion
The upper thre ad tension on th e m achine arm must generally be set tighter than the
underthread tension.
It is set by turning the knurled nut 6.
Tension increase = turn to the right
Tension decrease = turn to the left
The upper thre ad tension is executed as a du al tension:
–
Remaining rest tension 1
It serves to tauten the upper thread during the cutting procedure under the
needle plate as well as to achieve the desi red length of upper thread en d.
The rest tension must, depending on the elasticity of the upper thread used, be
so set that upper thread end hanging out of the needle is long enough to assure
a secure sewing start.
The setting oc curs by turning the sleeve 2.
Longer thread end = turn to the left
Shorter thread end = turn to the right
ATTENTION !
Do not heighten the cutti ng effect of the upper thread knife
by further increasing the rest tension.
To heig hten the cutting effect shar pen the knife.
If the upper thread end rem ains too long then work must be conducted wi thout
tension rele ase. This can, for example, be the case with firm and hardly flexible
upper thread .
For the appropri ate settings see Service Instructi on 558.
–
Main tension 5
This should be appropriately corrected after changing the rest tension.
The thread gripper 3 remains closed in the end position.
During removal of the sewing pieces this avoids a subsequent pulling of the
upper thread out of the thre ad tension.
For the next sewing seque nce there is the n always an uniformly long star ting
thread available.
Subsequent pulling of the upper thread by hand
Open the thread gripper 3 by hand and subsequent l y pull the threa d.
For this either hold the button 4 down or swing t he release lever 7 down.
41
1
4
2
5
6
3
42
Underthread tension
The underthread tension is set by turni ng the knurled nut 3 on the hook bracket.
Tension increase = turn to the right
Tension decrease = turn to the left
Thread pull-on spring for the underthread
The thread pull-on spring 1 influences the pull-on of the underthread through its stopper
width and pre-tension and thus the form and beading of the buttonhole.
Setting the stopper width: Loosen screw 5 and turn the angle 4.
Setting the pre-tension: Loosen screw 6 and turn angle 2.
Gimps
The upper and lower gimp should be pulled easily an d uniformly from t he guide hole i n
the needle plate and the gimp guider.
For a faultless appearanc e of the buttonhole a braking or clam pi ng of the gimp on its
way to the sewing station is to be avoided.
43
1
2
3
44
2.9 Sewing
–
Place a work piece under the clamps and align precisely.
The alignment can be made with markings or the stops available as optional
equipment (see Chapter 1.5).
Caution Risk of Injury !
Keep hands out from under the lowering cloth clamps !
–
Pull the clamp operating lever 1 to the front until it touches.
The work piece i s fi xed by the c l am ps.
–
Turn on the motor with hand shift lever 3.
For this loosen the hand shift lever out of its catch by
and bring into position
–
Press start lever 2 down.
The machine, depending on se tting, automatically conducts the following wo rk
steps in order:
With the setting "cutting before sewing":
–
The cutting knife cuts the buttonhole slit.
–
The material support plate moves quickly wi th the clamped in work piec e so far
forward until the b eginning of the but tonhole slit is exactly under the needle.
–
At the same time the clamp plat es are drawn apart.
The buttonhole slit is opened a little.
–
The sewing unit is turned on and the buttonhole sewn.
–
After the left seam row is completed the needle stops outside the cloth.
–
The material support plate moves quickly to its end position, thereby opening the
clamps.
"I"
.
pulling up
on the ball head
With the setting "cutting after sewing":
–
The material support plate moves quickly wi th the clamped in work piec e so far
forward until the p osition where th e buttonhole is to s t art is exactly under the
needle.
–
At the same time the clamp plat es are drawn apart.
The cloth lies t aut for the sewing of th e buttonhole.
–
The sewing unit is turned on and the buttonhole sewn.
–
After the left seam row is completed the material support plate moves quickly in the
cutting position. The bu ttonhole slit is c ut.
–
The material support plate moves quickly to its end position, thereby opening the
clamps.
45
1
2
3
4
56
46
Caution Risk of Injury !
As long as the seamstress is not yet familiar with the
operation of t he machine sh e should tur n off the mot or with
the hand shift lever 3 or the pedal after sewing each
buttonhole.
Work procedure for the experienced seamstress
After a suitable learning period the closing of the clamp operating lever 1 and the
turning on and off of the motor with every buttonhole through the seamstress can be
eliminated.
Instead the experienced seamstress proceeds as follows:
–
Place the work piece exactly under the clamps by eye or with stops and hold the
cloth fixed in thi s position.
Caution Risk of Injury !
Keep hands out from under the lowering cloth clamps !
–
With the left i n dex finger press th e start l ever 2 down.
The machine cl oses the clamp s by itself and runs through al l described work
procedure automatically.
Taking out the finished work piece
–
If necessary a little subsequent pulling of the upper gimp and then trimming. The
work piece can be pushed further or removed.
–
For removal of work pieces with sub-classes -231391 and -251301 Guide the
underthread (hook t hread) and lower gimp under the th read gripper 5 .
Pull both threads from right to left along the knife 6.
The threads a re trimmed.
2.10 Blocking the Clamp Lif t
Normally, after the ending of the sewing process the clamps are automa t ically lifted
(opened).
If they should not be lifted, proceed as follows:
–
Push button 3 immediately and hold pressed until the machine shuts off.
47
1
2
3
48
4
2.11 Buttonhole length
Caution Risk of Injury !
Pull the mains plug.
Set the buttonhole length only with the machine turned off.
ATTENTION !
The changing of the buttonhole length requires a
simultaneous change of the cutting length and thus the
mounting of a different cutti ng block (see Chapter 2.12) !
Buttonholes without Taper Bar
By buttonholes without taper bar the buttonhole length is determined through the
position of the length setting slide 3:
–
Loosen clamp s crew 4.
–
Set the desired buttonhole length.
Longer buttonhole length = Pull the length setting slide 3 forward
Shorter buttonhole length = Push the length setting slide 3 to the rear
–
The scale 1 and m arking lines 2 s erve for setting a sp ecific buttonhole length.
–
Tighten clamp s cr ew 4 again.
ATTENTION !
Set only the through the sewing device (E no.) allowable
minimum and maximum buttonhole lengths.
Sub-classes -221301 and -241291:
With these sub-classes an exceeding of the maximum sewing length is prevented by a
stop.
With the setting of the length setting slide at max. sewing length the stop piece must lay
in at the guide slit at the front.
ATTENTION !
Scale plate, leng th setting slide and stop piece have been
correctly set at the factory.
They may not be altered.
49
Example:
E407/L2
resp.
E2407/L2
1
Sewing len g th
Cutting length
Taper bar length
minimum
Sewing len g th
maximum
Sewing length
50
Sewing len g th
Buttonholes with Taper Bar
By buttonholes with taper bar the different buttonhole lengths are achieved through
insertion of the appropriate lower disc cam 1.
It determi nes taper bar form and length.
For exchanging the lower di sc cam see Chapter 2.18.
The order numbe rs for the different lower disc cams can b e found on the device sheets
for the 558 and 578.
The shortening, lengthening or complete shutting off of the taper bars occurs as
described above through adjusting the length setting slide and mounting of the
correspondin g cutting block.
ATTENTION !
Do not set the taper bar length below the minimum or
beyond the maximum buttonhole length.
When setting the length of buttonholes with taper bar along with the cutting length the
taper bar length must also be added in.
Example: 18 mm cutting l ength + 4 mm tape r bar length = 22 m m sewing length
Special characteristic by sub-class 558-241291:
With this sub-class buttonhole length, cutting length and taper bar length can be
changed.
For this four different
L1 for cuttin g lengths of 14 - 20 mm
L2 for cuttin g lengths of 18 - 24 mm
L3 for cuttin g lengths of 22 - 28 mm
L4 for cuttin g lengths of 26 - 32 mm
cutting length packages
(L1...L4) can be requested:
Each cutting l ength package inc l udes:
–
3 lower disc cams an d cutting blocks for sewing buttonholes with 3 different cutting
lengths
–
a corresponding clamp plate set
The clamp plate sets are differentiated by differing lengths for cloth clamps and thread
scissors with operating element for the short trimming of thread.
In order to assure a secure gripping and short trimming of thread and gimp the
difference in the buttonhole lengths which can be sewn with one cutting length package
cannot exceed 2 mm .
Example:
578 E 2407/L2 (S ewin g device E2407 combine d with cutting le ngth package L2)
Allowable sewing lengths: minimum 24 mm
maximum 26 mm.
51
1
2
3
4
5
6
52
7
8
2.12 Cutting Length
The cutting length is determined by the length of the cutting block.
It can be altered by changing the cutting block.
The order numbers for the different cutting blocks are, taking into account the sewing
device used (E no.), to be found on the device sh eets for the 558 or 578.
Changing the cutting block
Caution Risk of Injury !
Pull the mains plug.
Change the cutting block and cutti ng knife only with t he
machine turned off.
Cutting block 3 and cutting knife 4 ar e designed so that two configurations are possible:
–
Configuratio n
–
Configuratio n
To change the cutting block:
–
Loosen screw 2 or 8 and remove the cutting block or cutting k ni fe entfernen.
–
Insert the new cutting block and cut ting knife and tight en screws 2 and 8 agai n.
Attention !
When inserting push the new cutting block to t he back until tou ching on the stop 5
or 7.
(on cutter bar 1)
top
bottom
(below the clamp plates on the anvil body 6)
ATTENTION !
Insert only the cutting blocks corresponding to each cutting
knife.
Cutting knife for "cutting before sewing " have a larger eye form than a cutting
knife for "cutting after sewing".
In order to avoid having two different knife impressions on one cutting block the
cutting block corresponding to the cutting knives mu st always be inserted.
Cutting knives wi t h two different kn i fe impressions cause buttonholes to not be
cleanly cut and must be trued again (see Chapter 2.13).
53
12
21
54
3
4
Mounting the cutting block at the top or bottom ?
The mounting of the cutting block 2 and the cutting knife 1 is dependent on the
sub-class with its sewing device (E no.) for cutting "before" or "after sewing":
A. Sewing device for "cutting before sewing":
–
Cutting block at bottom and cutting knife at top
–
The material is supported by the cutting block during the cutting procedure.
In this way an unwanted pressing down of the edges of the buttonhole slit by thick
material (as in configuration b) is avoided.
Attention !
With the cutting knife mounted at the top the waste pipe 3
for collection of cutting waste must be mounted on the
cutter bar 4.
B. Sewing device for "cutting after sewing":
–
Cutting block at the top and cutting knife below
–
The sewn buttonhole seam glides down the slim sides of the cutting knife without
resistance during the cutting procedure.
In this way an unwanted deformation through pressure exerted on the buttonhole
seam (as with configuration a) is avoided.
C. Sewing device for "cutting before and after sewing":
–
Cutting block at the top and cutting knife below
–
Exception:
With the set ting "cutting before sewing" and at t he same time p rocessing of th ick
material the reverse configuration (cutting block at the b ottom and cutting knife
above) is to be chos en.
In this way an unwanted pressing down of the edges of the buttonhole slit (as with
configuration b) is avoided.
ATTENTION !
For the change-over from "cutting before sewing" to
"cutting after sewing" it is essential to obderve Chapter
2.19.
55
56
12 3
2.13 Cutting Blocks
Caution Risk of Injury !
Pull the mains plug.
Remove the cutting block only with the machine tur ned off.
A trueing (filing) of the cutting block becomes necessary,
–
when the cutting block has been too strongly cut into by the cutting knife.
–
when two different cutting knife forms have worked on the cutting block (Illus. 2).
When trueing the cutting block care is to be taken:
–
The cutting block must be so filed that the impression of the knife blade is to
be seen everywhere very fine and exactly uniform
ATTENTION !
The trueing of the cutting block must be conducted very
precisely.
Use only flawless, straight bastard files !
–
The height of the cutting blocks may only be reduced by a
through filing.
–
To achieve a uniform distribution of the cutting pressure the cutting block must hit
parallel onto the cutting knife (see sketch).
One-sided cu tting pressure, particul arly in the area of the eye, can cause the
cutting knife to break off.
Illustration 1 shows a correctly filed, illustration 3 a badly filed cutting block.
–
After true i n g one cutting blo ck, a l l other cutti ng block used must also be reworked
to the
same height dimension
work continue with the sam e cutting pressure. Otherwise there is a d anger of
breaking the cutting knife by a change of the cutting block !
. Only in this way can, after a cutting block change,
( Illus. 1).
maximum 1.5 mm
Malfunctions during cutting
After a longer period of operation the sharpness of the cutting knife is reduced. The
blade is blunt and the knife no longer c uts precisely in spite of a cor rectly trued cutting
block.
–
Send the knife to one of the
DÜRKOPP ADLER AG
for r e working .
57
2.14 Cutting Pressure
The cutting pressure is set with screw 1:
Increase cutting pressure = turn to the right
Decrease cutting pressure = turn to the left
1
After each adjustment of screw 1 the cutting pressure must be checked.
Checking the cutting pressure
–
Turn the machine with the hand crank.
The cutting pressure may only be set so high that the hand crank can be turned at
the moment o f cutting without exerting t oo much energy !
ATTENTION !
Excessive cutting pressure leads to unnecessary wear of
the cutting tools !
–
If even with this setting of the cutting pressure the cloth can still not be cleanly cut:
True the cutting block or check the sharpness of the knife blade (see Chapter 2.13).
58
2.15 Spreading of the Material
1
2
Caution Risk of Injury !
Pull the mains plug.
Set the spreading only with the machine turned off.
At the setting
start of the material support plate . The material is draw n t aut.
At the setting
cutting. The buttonhole slit is ope ned a little. The stitching needle can cle an l y sew both
seam rows without stitching into the cut edge of the material.
Normally a spreading of
–
Remove the clamp plates (see Chapter 2.1).
–
Loosen screws 1 an d 3 and move the stops 2 and 4.
Increase spreading = move the stops inward
Decrease spreading = move the stops outward
"cutting after sewing"
"cutting before sewing"
1.5 mm is sufficient
the clamp plates are drawn apart after the run
the clamp plates are drawn apart only after the
.
3
4
ATTENTION !
So that both seam rows are equally wi de the left an d right
stops must be m o ved equal distances.
–
Tighten screws 1 and 3 again.
–
With unequal seam widths correct the spreading accordingly
59
A
A
B
1
2
3
60
B
4
2.16 Stitch Density
Caution Risk of Injury !
Pull the mains plug.
Set the stitch density only with the machine turned off.
For the whole buttonhole length
The stitch density is adjustable between 0.9 and 2 mm.
It is determined by the required strength and the appearance of the buttonhole, as well
as the thread s i ze us ed.
–
Loosen screw 2.
–
Move the transport lever 1.
Movement in direction A = stitches become denser
Movement in direction B = stitche are farther apart
–
Tighten screw 2 again.
In the eye of the buttonhole
This setting has no influence on the stitch density in both seam rows.
Stitch density in the buttonhole eye to be
–
Loosen screw 4.
–
Move the stitch length regulator rail 5 in the direction of the arrow.
–
Tighten screw 4 again.
Stitch density in the buttonhole eye to be
–
Loosen screw 4.
–
Replace the old stitch length regulator rail 5 with the stitch length regulator rail 3
found in the accessories pack.
–
Tighten screw 4 again.
3
smaller
greater
:
:
5
61
B
1
2
A
3
62
Seam width
Cutting area
Buttonhole width
2.17 Seam Width (Buttonhole Width)
Caution Risk of Injury !
Pull the mains plug.
Set the seam w i dth only with the machine turned off.
At the setting "cutting after sewing" the buttonhole width is arrived at as follows:
Buttonhole width = Cutting area + 2 x seam width
Setting the seam width
–
Loosen the win g nut 2.
–
Move the connecting rod 3.
Movement in direction A = wider seam
Movement in direction B = narrower seam
–
Tighten the wing nut 2 again.
Setting for sewing with gimp thread
–
Select the seam width so that the gimp thread is not pierced by the needle tip but
rather just still overcast.
Smallest and greatest allowable seam width
The smallest and greatest allowable s eam width for the s ewin g device used (E no.) is
determin ed by the limit plate attached wi t h screw 1.
ATTENTION !
Do not loosen screw 1 under any circumstances.
There is a
clamps, hook, spreader and n eedle plate !
Should the ma chine be converted to another sewing device (E no.) umgerüstet werden,
then the allowable butto nhole widths for it ar e to be found in the table in Chapter 1.4.
The conversion is to b e m ade per the Service Inst ructions.
danger of breakage
for the needle, cloth
63
1
2
3
4
64
2.18 Buttonhole Form
The buttonhole form i s determined by the two exchangeable disc cams 1 and 2:
–
The upper disc cam 1 determines the eye form.
–
The lower disc cam 2 determines, by taper bar buttonholes, the taper bar form and
buttonhole length.
Disc cams, cutti ng blocks and cutting knife for the different buttonhole forms and
buttonhole lengths are to be found in the device sheet for the 558 and 578.
Exchanging the disc cams
–
Bring the machine into the end position (see Chapter 2.3).
In the end position the roll er bolt 4 is held in position by the underly i ng cam plate 3.
The disc cams can be removed unhinder ed.
–
Remove and exchange the disc cams.
After the exchange of the disc cams it is essenti al that the following points be
checked:
1. Are the corresponding cutting knife and the appropriately long cutting block
mounted ?
If necessary exchange the cutting knife and cutting block (see Chapter 2.12)
2. Is the correct buttonhole length set as per Chapter 2.11 ?
If necessary set the correct buttonhole length at the length setting slide (see
Chapter 2.11).
3. During t he exchange of the k ni ves was the corresponding cutting block als o
mounted ?
ATTENTION !
When changing to a different cutting knife form
it is essential to also install the corresponding cutting
block !
When using the wrong cutting block two differing cutting knife impressions appear in it.
This leads to a bad cutting of the buttonhole slit. In this case true the cutting block again
(see Chapter 2.13).
65
66
1
2
2.19 Change-over to Cutting Before or After Sewing
Caution Risk of Injury !
Pull the mains plug.
Conduct the change-over to "cutt ing before" or "cutting
after sewing" only with the machine turned off vornehmen.
The change-over from "cutting before" to "cutting after sewing" is only possible with
sub-classes wi t h the appropriate sewing device (E no.) (see Device Table in Chapter
1.4).
All machine elements which must be adjusted are marked by the following bi-lingual
sticker with the following meaning:
Adjustment in direction of arrow = cutting before sewing
Adjustment in direction of arrow = cutting after sewing
Note:
CA and CB are the English language abbreviations.
CA = Cut after CB = Cut before
Change-over to "cutting before" or "cutting after sewing"
The settings for c utting before and cutting afte r sewing are each li m i ted by two stops.
ATTENTION !
The stops have been se t.
They may not be altered !
1. Timing of the cut
–
Loosen screw 2.
–
Slide the turn-off bolt 1 in the appropriate arrow direction.
Press the high-speed wheel inward for easier setting of the turn-off bolt.
–
Tighten screw 2 again.
67
12 34
68
5
6
2. Timing of the closing and opening of the clamps
–
Tilt the machine head up.
–
Loosen screw 2.
–
Push the clamp closing lever 1 in the appropriate arrow direction up to the stop.
–
Tighten screw 2 again.
3. With or without cutting room between the seam rows
–
Loosen screws 5.
–
Slide the lever 4 in the appropriate arrow direction up or down up to the st op.
Attention !
The amount th at the lever has to be moved is ver y s m al l .
–
Tighten screws 5 agai n.
4. Cutting knife and cutting block
–
Slide the cutting knife 4 in the appropriate arr ow di rection up to the stop.
The configurati on of the cutt i ng at the top or below occurs hereby as per the
instructions in Chapter 2.12.
–
Insert the cutting block 3 corresponding to the cutting knife used and slide to the
back up to the stop (see Chapter 2. 12).
ATTENTION !
Only mount the cutting block corresponding the cutting
knife used !
When using the wrong cutting block two different cutting knife impress i ons are
made.
This leads to a bad cut of the buttonhole slit.
5. Exchanging the upper disc cam
–
Bring the machine in its end position bringen (see Chapter 2.3).
In end posit ion the roller bolt is held in i t s position by the underlying cam plate.
The upper disc c am can be removed unhind ered.
–
Remove and exchange the upper disc cam.
(see Chapter 2.19)
69
3. Maintenance
1
Caution Risk of Injury !
Pull the mains plug.
Maintain the machine only when it is turned off.
3.1 Cleaning
A clean machine protects against malfunctions !
Daily cleaning:
Clean the area under the clamp plates, particularly around the hook bracket 1, of
sewing dust, thread rests and cutting refuse.
ATTENTION !
It is to be avoided that cutting refuse enters into the
housing of the main disc cam at the back. If a vacuum is
available this is recommended.
–
Take off the clamp plates (see Chapter 2.1) and remove cutting waste.
–
Tilt up the machine head and r em ove cut t i ng waste from the base.
70
3.2 Lubrication
12
For lubrication of the machine only
SP-NK 10 is available at the
Check the oil level in the oil reservoirs
–
The lubrication of all moving parts the machine on the machine arm and hook
bracket is through a central oil wick lubrication ou t of the oil reservoirs 1 and 2.
If necessary fill oil through the filling plug up to the "max." marking.
Weekly lubrication of the buttonhole machine
–
The marked positions on the material support plate and the control curve housings
are to be given a few drop of oil weekly.
The positions are shown in the pictures on the following page.
ESSO SP-NK 1 0
DÜRKOPP ADLER AG
lubricating oil is to be used.
sales offices.
71
3.3 Oiling Positions
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
72
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
73
*
*
*
*
*
*
74
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
75
4. Malfunction Remedies
Malfunction Remedy
1. Machine does not start or
runs unevenly.
a) V-belt from the motor to the
high-speed wheel or to the
handwheel is too loose.
b) Machine is in front of the
cutting position at the time of
starting.
2. Clamp closing lever cannot
be closed or opened
Material support plate is not i n
the end positi on.
3. Cloth clamp pressure is
too high or too low.
4. Buttonhole is not cleanly
cut open.
a) Cutting block has been cut into
too deeply by the knife.
b) Knife blade is blunt or broken.
c) Exit opening in the knife is
blocked by cloth waste.
d) Cutting pressure is not
correctly set.
e) The cutting block
correspondin g to the cutting
knife is not mount ed.
.
Tension V-belt as per Installation Instructions for
the 558.
With the main witch turned off and the needle high
bring the machine into its end position with the
hand crank.
Reduce cutting pressure as per Chapter 2.14.
With the hand crank bring the material support
plate into the end pos i ti on. W i t h a re peat of this
malfunction have a specialist reset the turn-off
timing (see Service Instructions for the 558).
When changin g over to cutting before or cutting
after sewing always slide the turn-off bolt up to the
stop.
Reset the cloth clamp pressure (see Chapter
2.17).
Tr ue the cutting block (see Chapter 2.13) and
reset the cutting pressure (see Chapter 2.14).
Insert a new knife or send the old knife to one of
the
reworking.
Remove the knife and clea n t he exit opening in
the knife and knife holder or cutter bar.
Reset the cutting pressure (see Chapter 2.14).
Always mount the cutting block corresponding to
the cutting k ni fe us ed !
DÜRKOPP ADLER AG
business offices for
76
Malfunction Remedy
5. Unequal stitch lengths or
stitch positions.
a) V-belt is too loose.
b) Gimp is too taut, jams or does
not pass easily through the
gimp hole of the needle plate .
6. Missing stitches
a) Needle is blunt, bent or not
correctly inserted.
b) Upper or underthread is
not correctly threaded.
c) Thread tension is set
too taut.
d) Thread unwinds badly from
the thread rolls.
e) Hook or spreader have
become misadjusted.
f) Material is not held or spread
correctly.
7. Loose stitches.
a) Thread tensions are not set
correctly.
b) Upper or underthread is not
threaded correctly.
8. Thread breakage.
a) Upper or underthread is not
threaded correctly.
b) Needle is incorrectly inserted,
bent or sharp-edged.
c) Thread used is u ns ui table
(knotted, hard or too thick).
d) Thread tensions are set too
taut.
e) Needle plate, hook or
spreader are damaged.
Tension V-belt as per Installation Inst ructions for
the 558.
Use thinner gim p or insert a needle pla t e with
larger gimp hole.
For stiff and inflexible gimps use gimp roller holder
on the table (Order no. 557 1103).
Insert a new, flawless needle (see Chapter 2.4).
Check the threading path of the upper or
undert hread (see Chap ter 2.5 and 2.7).
Reset thread tension (see Chapter 2.8).
See Chapter 2.7.
Readjustmen t only through a specialist !
Check the spread i ng of the material (see Chapter
2.17) and pressure of the upper cloth clamps.
Reset thread tensions (see Chapter 2.8).
Check the threading path of the upper or
undert hread (see Chap ter 2.5 and 2.7).
Check the threading path of the upper or
undert hread (see Chap ter 2.5 and 2.7).
Insert a new, flawless needle (see Chapter 2.4).
Use a different thread. See recommendations in
Chapter 2.6 .
Reset thread tensions. (see Chapter 2.8)
Replace damag ed parts through new ones or
have reworked by a specialist.
77
Malfunction Remedy
9. Needle breakage.
a) Needle thickness is unsuitable
for the material or the thread.
b) Needle is hitting the c l ot h
clamps.
10. No clean seam beginning or
unthreading of the upper
.
thread
a) Rest tension for the upper
thread is set too taut. Start
thread for the next sewing
beginning is t hus too short.
b) Thread gripper on the upper
thread tension does not
clamp the upper thread in
the machine end position.
Use a needle thickness as per Chapter 2.6 or as
per sewing device ( E no.).
The max. buttonhole width li s ted in the table on
page 8 for each sewi ng device (E no.) may not be
exceeded. Resetting by service personnel as per
Service Instructions for the 558.
Reset the rest tension fo r the upper thread (see
Chapter 2.8).
Reset the thread gripper a s per Service
Instructions for the 558.
78
5. Optional Equipment
Electromagneticall y Operated Upper Thread Catcher
5.1 General
The sub-class 55 8-221301 has the the electro-m agnetically operated upper th read
catcher as standard equipment.
All other sub-classes can, on request, be outfitted with it at the factory or have it
retrofitted.
Function
The electroma gnetically operated upper thread catcher grabs the upper thread
immediately after the thread cutting procedure and hold it clamped. When sewing the
next buttonhole it places it in th e right seam.
The means:
Secure seam beginning even in light, loose weaves.
•
Beginning sti tches drawn fast.
•
Trimming of the underside of the buttonhole is unnecessary because the starting
•
thread is overcast .
Parts set required for the retrofitting
Retrofitti ng attachmen t : Order no. 558 10002
Factory attachment: Order no. 558 10012
ATTENTION !
By equipment wi th the upper t hread catcher in the indivi dual sub-classes the following
points are to be observed:
558-231391 The maximum sewing length wi th thread catc her function is 3 2 m m .
For sewing lengths above 32 mm the upper thread catche r must be
deactivated (see chapter 2.2).
558-251301 The max. sewing length with thread catcher function is 42 mm.
For sewing lengths above 42 mm the thread catcher must be deactivated.
79
80
b3
12
3
4
5
5.2 Electrical Connection
ATTENTION
All work on the electrical components of the upper thread
catcher may only be conducted by electricians or
appropriately trained personnel. The mains plug must be
pulled.
The transformer in the controls of the upper thread catchers is equipped with
connections for foll owi ng mains voltages:
1 ~ 200 V
1 ~ 220 V
1 ~ 380 V
1 ~ 415 V
At the factory
–
With other mains voltages change the connection on the primary side of the
transformer accordingly before commissioning.
the transformer is connected to 1 ~ 380 V.
5.3 Function Sequence
–
After the machine is turned on the switching piece mounted on the material
support plate operates switch b3.
Thread catcher 1 lowers with the c l am ped upper thre ad 2 to the mate rial.
–
Appropriate to the set butt onhole length the sewing dr i ve turns on and begins with
the right seam.
The upper thread end placed by the thread catcher is thereby overcast and sewn in.
–
Shortly before reaching the buttonhole eye switch b3 falls off of the switching piece.
Thread catcher 1 moves back into its upper position.
–
During sewing of the buttonhole eye the u pper toothed segment 5 with stopper
angle 4 leaves its extreme right position.
The slewably bearinged thread catcher changes from the inse rtion to the catch
position, e.g. from the right to the left buttonhole seam.
–
After finishing the left buttonhole seam the sewing drive turns off in the needle high
position.
The upper thread is trimmed.
(Continuation see the following page)
81
6
b2
7
82
8
–
The cam 6 connected with the length setting slide operates the switch b2. The
thread catcher lowers.
Through the sl i de of the opene r lever 8 ont o the opener 7 the thread cat cher is
opened.
Via the curve plate 3 it is swung in f ront of the needle to grip the upper thread .
–
During further lowering the opener lever 8 falls off the opener 7.
The thread catcher closes.
–
After cam 6 has run over the switch b2 the thread catcher with the clamped thread
moves back into the upper position.
Opener lever 8 thereby slides past
opener 7 without being operated.
behind
83
b4
1
84
b1
b5
5.4 T urn-on Interlocks
Switch b4
With the cloth clamps opened the machine c an only be turned on in it s end position. For
this cams 1 op erates the switch b4 .
Switch b1
In all other m achine positions with the cloth clamps opened a turni ng on and thus also
the thread catcher function are blocked by switch b1.
The safety switch b1 is bypa ssed by the activated switch b4.
The machine, with
Example:
The sewing sequen ce is interrupted with th e hand shift lever.
During the subsequent release of the cloth clamps switch b1 opens.
The switch interlock in the thread catcher controls switches the motor off.
To restart:
–
Pull the turn-off lever forward (see chapter 2.2).
–
Tur n the handwheel until it ca tches.
The needle is in its highest position.
–
Remove material.
–
Close the cloth clamps.
–
Bring the hand shift lever into position
–
Tur n on the motor by operating the push button b5.
The machine moves back into its end position.
opened cloth clamps,
can only be started in i t s end position.
.
"I"
Deactivating the upper thread catcher
By pulling the plug from the electromagnet the upper thread catcher is deactivated.
ATTENTION !
Do not block the thread catcher by pulling the plug from the
thread catcher controls. The power supply for the sewing
drive is interrupted otherwi s e.
85
3
1
4
2
5
86
10
11
6
7
12
13
8
14
9
15
5.5 Setting
Caution Risk of Injury !
Pull the mains plug.
Make setting only with the machine turn ed off.
5.5.1 Lift of the Electroma gnet
The lift of the electromagnet should be 20 mm.
Measured is the di stance between t he upper edge of the protecti ve sleeve 4 and t he
upper edge of the anchor 3 in both positions (ON and OFF). The difference must be
20 mm.
–
Loosen lock nut 6.
–
Screw anchor 3 further i n or out.
–
Tighten lock nut 6 again.
5.5.2 Base Position of the Upper Thread Catcher s
The forward edge 5 of the magnet must be in line with the face 2 of the machine arm.
–
Loosen screws 1 an d 12.
–
Align the magnet.
–
Tighten screws 1 and 12 again.
Opener lever 13 and guide piece 11 must lie parallel to one another.
–
Loosen clamp s crew 9.
–
Tur n the opener l ever 13 wi th thread cat cher 10 and set parallel to the guide piece
11.
–
Tighten clamp s cr ew 9 again.
So that the thread catcher 10 can close securely there must be a little play between the
lower part 14 of the opener lever and the movable leg 15.
–
Bring the machine into the end position (see chapter 2.2.3).
–
Screw out the stop screw 7 so far that during retreat of the opener lever before
operation of the movable leg 15 a clearance of approx. 0.3 mm is still felt between
bracket 8 and stop screw 7.
87
2
3
1
45 6
7
88
89
5.5.3 Lowering Movement
Opener setting
After the closi ng of the thread gripper 1 the opener lever 3 must move past be hi nd the
opener 2 unhindered.
Thread gripper 1 must thereby remain closed.
–
Check the unhindered movement of the op ener lever 1.
–
If necessary, set opener 2 accordingly with screw 9.
Insertion position
When sewing the right buttonhol e seam and simul t aneous manual operation of the
magnet the ins erted upper thread en d s hould be overcast.
–
Set the insertion position accordingly with setting screw 8.
Thread catcher height
The clearance between
This setting applies for medium-weight material. With thicker or thinner materials a
correction m ay be necessary.
–
Loosen screws 6 an d 7.
–
Set the thread catcher height.
–
Tighten screws 6 and 7 again.
–
Check the insertion position again and correct, if necessary.
lowered thread gripper
and material should be 3 - 4 mm.
Opener
The clearance between the back of the opener 2 and the opener lever 3 must be about
0.5 mm.
–
Set the distance accordingly by turning the setting screw 8.
Slewing movement
Shortly before reaching its lowest position wird thread gripper 1, through the curve plate
5, is swung close in front of the needle.
In this posit i on the distance between thread gripper 1 and needle must be about 3 mm .
–
Loosen screws 4.
–
Set the curve plate 5 higher or lower.
–
Tighten screws 4 agai n.
89
12 3
45 6
7
89
90
5.5.4 Gripping Movement
Bringing the thread gripper in gripping position
After sewing the l eft buttonhole seam the thre ad gripper 3 mu st be set in the precise
gripping posi tion for the upper thread.
–
Tur n the handwheel until the sewi ng sequence for the left buttonho le seam is
completed a nd the handwh eel catches.
–
Turn the material support plate with the hand crank about 14 mm farther.
For this measure th e distance betwe en bearing block 2 and m achine arm 1.
If the measured distance i s e. g. 21.5 mm, t hen we get a dis tance to be set of 7.5
mm by subtracting 14 mm.
–
Move the bearing block 2, by turning t he hand crank, t oward t he machine arm 1.
Opening width
If, in gripping position, th e m agnet is operated manually, then the opener lever 9 must
glide onto the front of the opener 7 and open the thread gripper 3.
The opening wid th of the threa d gripper shou l d t hereby be 3 - 3,5 mm .
–
Set the opener 7 m ore or less in the path of the opener lever 9 by turning the
setting screw 6.
Position the thread gripper
The upper thread to be caught must, with lowered and opened thread gripper 3, lie in
the center of its opening.
–
Set the thread gripper by turning the setting screw 5.
The screw 5 is hidden in the illustration by the lever.
Timing of the closing
The closing of the thread gripper 3 should only occur shortly before reaching the lowest
position of the thread catcher.
At the end of the slewing movement of the thread catcher in the direction of the needle
the pin 8 should have moved past the upper th read approx. 2 mm.
The timing of the closing is determined by the opener 7.
–
Loosen screws 4.
–
Set the opener 7.
Opener higher = earlier closing
Opener lower = later closing
–
Tighten screws 4 agai n.
–
Check the timing of c l osing by slow manual lower i ng of the magnet.
91
5.5.5 Switches for the Upper Thread Catcher Controls
ATTENTION !
Before commissioning the machine all switches must be
set as described below.
b1
1
b4
Switch b4
Safety switch b1 is bypassed by the operation of switch b4.
The machine, with
In the end p osition the switch i ng piece 1 must t urn on the switch b4 and hold it
operative.
–
Bring the machine in its end position (s ee chapter 2.3).
The end position is reached when the cloth clamps are automatically opened.
–
Set the switching p i ec e 1 under the ma t erial support plate and switch b4 on the
control curve housing accordingly.
open cloth clamps,
can only be started in i t s end position.
92
1b3 2 3 45
Switch b3
After the sewing in of the upper thread end in the right buttonhole seam switch b3
determines the timing of the raising of the thread catcher.
The upper thre ad end should be held as long as po ssible.
Thereby the switching roller 2 must have fallen from the switching piece 3 before the
clamping piece 4 of the thread catcher can run onto t he clamp shackle 5.
This corresponds to a machine position shortly before entering i n the buttonhole eye.
–
Loosen screws 1.
–
Set switch b3.
–
Tighten screws 1 agai n.
93
2b1 b2 1
Switch b2
After the trimming of the upper thread switch b2 operated by cam 1 determines the
timing for lowering the thread catcher.
Cam 1 is connected to the length setting slide.
With the setting of a different buttonhole length the correct switch timing is thus set
automatically.
–
Just before ending the left buttonhole seam turn th e handwheel until i t cat ches. The
sewing drive turns off.
–
Turn the material support plate with the hand crank about 6 mm far t her.
At this time switch b2 s hould be operate d by cam 1.
The thread catcher lowers.
–
Adjust switch b2.
–
Correct the switch timing after a trial run, if necessary.
The upper thre ad must be caught about 2 mm behind pin 2.
94
1
b1
Switch b1
Safety switch b1 is directly under th e clamp frame 1.
It is to prevent the machine being turned on with the cloth clamps open.
–
Switch b1 must, with open clot h clamps, be open.
With the clo t h clamps closed i t must be closed.
–
Align switch b1 to the clamp frame 1 so that the above mentioned switching
functions a re assured during the whole advancing movement o f the material
support plate (with material in place).
95
10 b3 7 b5 3 b2 b1
1
13
13
2
4
2
b10
b10
5
5
11 L1 12 6 b4
96
5.6 Attachment
Caution Risk of Injury !
Pull the mains plug.
The attachment of the upper thread catcher may only be
conducted with the machine turned off and only by trained
skilled personnel.
5.6.1 Pre-assembling the Wiring Distributor
The designation numbers affixed to the cables and position numbers in these
instructions are indenti cal with the cable numbers in the enclosed hook-up diagram
558 10296 and in the circuit diagram 558 10295.
–
Lay the cables 2 and 3 through the holder tube 12.
–
Connect the cores of the cables to the two outside terminals (1 and 4) of the
switches b1 and b2.
–
Fasten the switches b1 and b2 to angle 13.
–
Lay the cables 1 and 4 through the holder tube 11.
–
Connect the cores of cable 1 t o m agnet plug 10 .
The terminal with the ground symbol remains free.
–
Connect the cores of the cable 4 at switch b3 to the terminals "Normally open" (3)
and "Common" (1).
–
Pull the cable brackets of cable 7 off of the connects in the wiring di stributor L1.
Since the button b5 is already soldered on th e freed cable end must be fed throug h
the holder t ube 11 from above.
Push the cable brackets back onto the contacts (1 and 5).
–
Connect the cores of cable 6 t o the two outsid e terminal s (1 and 4) of the switch b4.
97
10 b3 7 b5 3 b2 b1
1
13
13
2
b10
b10
2
5
5
4
19 20
11 L1 12 6 b4
98
11
13
14
15
16
17
5.6.2 Laying the Wiring
–
Pull the hand crank 17 from the shaft end.
–
Loosen nut 16 (
–
Loosen nut 13.
–
Pull off the h i gh-speed whee l 15 with the drive bush 14.
–
Attach the holder tube 11 with cables 1, 4 an d 7 to the cover plate.
–
Reattach the high-speed wheel 15 again and tighten nuts 13 and 16.
Set a clearance of 1 mm between the latches (see Service Instructions 558).
–
Replace hand crank 17 again an d let catch.
–
Mount angle 20 on the mach i ne housing under the screws 21.
Thereby do not remove the baffle.
–
Mount the triangle plate 19 with distributor L1 on angle 20.
–
Fasten holder tube 1 with a hose clampto the machine housing.
–
Lay the cables 2 and 3 to the right.
ATTENTION
: lefthand thread)
12
21
20
(Continuation see next page)
99
b1 21 b2
b4
22 23
–
Fasten angle 21 with switches b1 and b2 to the support 22.
–
Attach the cable clips.
–
Mount switch b4 to the outside of the control curve housi n g.
–
Secure the cable 6 with a clamp.
–
Mount operator 23 for switch b4 cent ered in its sl ot under the mat erial supp ort
plate.
100
6
5.6.3 Control Unit
–
Mount the control unit 2 under the table.
–
Lay the cable 1 from the wiring di stributor to t he control unit 2 (plug b10) and aatch
to the table with a clamp.
The laying of the cable must be conducted with the machine head tilted up.
–
Connect the mains lead and connector lead to the motor as per the hook-up
diagram.
1
2
ATTENTION
After connecting the sewing procfedure may only be turned
on if all setting have previously been made according to
Chapter 5.5 .
101
5.6.4 Mounting Switch b3
In the parts set there are 2 switching cams for the different sub-classes:
b3
1
2
Sub-class Switching cam
-221301 , -251301 straight switching cam
-231391 , -241291 milled switching cam
-211241 milled switching cam
–
Loosen and remove cover plate 2.
–
Mount the ap propriate switchin g cam 1 to the machine plate.
–
Mount switch b3 wi th angle 3 to t he cover plate 2.
–
Reattach cover plate 2.
–
Set switch b3 (see chapter 5.3.5).
102
The milling must be deepened
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