Adler 558 Operating Instruction

Contents Page:

Home

Preface and General Safety Notes

Part 1: Operating Instructions Cl. 558

1. Product Description

1.1 Short Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

1.2 Sub-classes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

1.3 Technic al Speci fication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

1.4 Sewing Devic es . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

1.4.1 Device Summary Table and Function Characteristics 578 E... /... . . . 9

1.4.2 Device Summary Table and Function Characteristics 558 E ... / ... . . . 11

1.5 Optional Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

2. Operation

2.1 Removal and Placement o f the Clamp Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

2.2 Turnin g On - Quick Stop - Restart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

2.3 End Position of the Sewing Machine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

2.4 Needles, Threads and Gimps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

2.5 Threading of the Underthread (Hook Thread) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

2.6 Threading the G imps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

2.7 Threading of the Upper Thread (Needle Thread) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

2.8 Thread Tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

2.9 Sewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

2.1 0 Blocking the Clamp Lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

2.11 Buttonhole Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

2.1 2 Cutti ng Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

2.1 3 Cutti ng Blocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

2.1 4 Cutti ng Pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58

2.1 5 Spreading of t he Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59

2.16 Sti tch Density . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61

2.17 Seam Width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

2.18 Buttonhole Fo rm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

2.19 Changeover to Cutting Before or After Sewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

3. Maintenance

3.1 Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70

3.2 Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

3.3 Oiling Positions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70

4. Malfunction Remedies

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

5. Optional Equipment Electromagnetic Upper Thread Catcher

5.1 General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79

5.2 Electrical Conn ection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81

5.3 Function Sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81

5.4 Turn-on Interlocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85

5.5 Setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87

5.5. 1 Lift of the Electromag net . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87

5.5.2 Base Position of the Upper Thread Catcher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87

5.5.3 Lowering Movement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89

5.5.4 Gripping Movement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91

5.5 .5 Switc hes for the Upper Th read Catcher Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92

5.6 Attachment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97

5.6.1 Pre-assembling the Wiring Distributor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97

5.6.2 Laying the Wiring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

5.6 .3 Control Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101

5.6 .4 Mounting Switch b 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102

5.6 .5 Mounting the Switching Rail for Switch b2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103

5.6.5 Mounting the Upper Thread Catcher on the Machine Arm . . . . . . . . . 104

. . . . . 79

The illustrations used in these instructions are of differing sub-classes of the buttonhole machine 558 !

Please note that your buttonhole may deviate from the illustrations !

1. Product Description

1.1 Short Description and Proper Use

The

DÜRKOPP ADLER 558

Buttonholes with or without eye and with or without taper bar can be sewn.

The buttonhole form i s determined by 2 exchangeable disc cams with

•

corresponding knives. The upper disc cam determines the form of the eye. The disc cam lying thereunder determines for buttonholes with taper bar the taper bar form and the buttonhole length.

The smallest and largest butto nhole width for each sewing device (E no.) is

•

established by the position of the lim i t plate. Pendulum swing of the needle bar from the rest position one-sided to the right

•

when sewing the right and one-sided to the left when sewing the left buttonhole seam.

Automatic adaption of the upper cloth clamp pressure to differing material

•

thicknesses th rough spring -hangered clamp frame. The safety devices do no t have to be removed when ti l ting up the mac h i ne.

•

The combined finger-eye protection device increases safety.

•

It is held in the work position by springs. The gas pressure spring aids tilting up and effects a sure, slow lowering. The stop

•

position makes an unhindered threading of the hook thread possible. The machine is equipped with a central oil wick lubrication from 2 oil reservoirs

•

(the positions marked in red must also be oi led).

In the next chapter the individual sub-classes are described.

is a double chain stitch buttonh ol e machine.

1.2 Sub-classes

558 - 211241

With automatic trimmers. The upper thread, the underthread and the gimp fed in from the bottom are cut so short that no thread ends are vi si ble. Cleaning is unnecessary.

Cutting open the buttonhole after sewing. Cutting length 20 mm

558 - 221301

With automatic trimmers. The upper thread is cut off short. The underthread and the gimp fed in from the bottom are cut off l ong (about 30 m m).

Cutting open the buttonhole depending on E no. before or after sewing, as desired. This sub-class has the electromagnetic upper thread catcher as standard equipment. Cutting length 10...38 mm

558 - 231391

With automatic trimmer. Only the upper thread is cut short. The sewing piece can be easily removed from the sewing position or, with buttonholes lying in a row, simply pulled a bit to the left. The underthread and the lower gimp are then trimmed by hand.

With this sub-class the sewing pi ece is positioned 12 mm further forward than with

-221301 and -251301. Cutting open of the buttonhole, depending on the E no., as desired, before or after

sewing. Cutting length 10...38 mm

558 - 241291

The sewing piece is positioned 9.5 mm further forward than with sub-classes -221301 and - 251301. This means a better view and more freedom when positioning the sewing pieces.

With automatic trimmers. The upper thread, the underthread and the gimp fed in from the bottom are trimmed so short t hat no thread ends are visible. No cleaning is necessary.

Cutting open the buttonhole after sewing. Cutting length dependent on the length package 14...32 mm

558 - 251301

With automatic trimmer. Only the upper thread is cut short. The sewing piece can be easily removed from the sewing position or, with the buttonholes lying in a row, simply pulled a bit to the left. The underthread and the lower gimp are then trimmed by hand.

Cutting open the buttonhole can be switched between cutting before or after sewing. Cutting length 10...50 mm

1.3 T echnical Specification

Number of stitches: 1.650 Stitches/min Type of stitch: Double chain stitch Sewing length: max. 50 mm Cutting length: max. 50 mm Needle system: 558 Needle thickness: Nm 90...110

Looping stroke: 2.7...3.2 mm

Material thicknesses: max. 10 mm with sub-class -221301

Sewing thread th ickness: Upper thread max. Nm 50

Nominal voltage: - 2410591 3 ~ 400 V + N, 50/60 Hz

Noise: Lc = 80 dB (A)

Dimensions: (H x W x D) 1570 x 630 x 520 mm (Standard)

Weight: 128 kg (complete w i t h m achine head,

55 kg (only frame and motor)

Work height: 760...1060 mm (Top edge of table)

Depending on the type of sewing thread and the material.

Depending on the sewing device (E no.).

max. 12 mm with all othersub-classes

Underthread max. Nm 30

- 2410575 3 ~ 230 V, 5 0/60 Hz

- 2410540 1 ~ 230 V, 5 0 H z

- 2410478 1 ~ 230 V, 6 0 H z The machine is de l i vered with one of the listed drive

packages appropriate to the nominal voltage.

by sewing cycle 5.0 s on an d 1.4 s off to DIN 45635-48-B-1

1570 x 1060 x 520 mm (Wide model)

frame and motor)

1.4 Sewing Devices

The devices parts for the differen t butt onhole forms and cutting lengt hs are established under device numbers (E no.’s). After the E no. behind a slash the cutting length or the setting range in mm is given.

Example:

For sewing the various buttonhole len gths different cu tting blocks, cloth clamps and disc cams are required. The appropriate or der numbers can be found in the device sheet for the

558

The device summary table on the following page lists the currently available devices. The most suitable device for a specific buttonhole form and a certain type of material can be chosen quickly from the t a ble.

ATTENTION :

For the

558

For the

558

There are two di fferent groups of butto nhole machines:

578 E2107 / 20 or 578 E209 / 10 - 38 558 E209 / 10 - 38

after July 1994 the device numbers for the 578 apply ( Chapter 1.4.1 ). up to June 1994 t he device numbers for the 558 apply ( Chapter 1.4.2 ).

Only cutting Cutting

before or after

For conversion of the buttonhole machine to a further buttonhole form or cutting length the following points are to be consi dered:

1. Only those parts are to be ordered and at tached whose o rder numbers do not agree with those o f the device available. See the device sheets for the 558 and the 578.

2. The cutting lengths can only be selected appropriate to the device or the setting range. By devices which have only one digit behind the slash the cutting length is not adjustable.

3. By machines wh i ch are switched over to cutting before or aft er sewing, the appropriate sections of these instructions are to be observed.

4. The setting values, buttonhole width and looping stroke, are interdependent and must be observed when changin g to another device (E no.). If values deviating fr om the table arise, the adaption is to be made by a special i st as per the Service Instructions.

after

sewing.

sewing as desired.

mm mm mm mm

for width area stroke

Cutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Looping

before after min. max.

Buttonhole form

Gimp long

20 Under th., Gimp

10 - 38

Buttonholes similar to E209 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,0

handworked quality 10 - 38 Under thread,

High quality clothing of E212 / E213 / V <-- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,4 2,7

variing thicknesses 10 - 38 10 - 38

Loose, coarse weave cloth

Buttonholes similar to handworked E309 / ---> N Upper thread 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,0

quality in outerwear 18 + 24

Small buttonholes in elastic material E311 / * ---> N " 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,2

(e.g. knitware) with round or flat gimp 6 - 34

Materials of variing quality and E312 / E312 / V <--- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,4 2,7

Garment leather E327 / V <--- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,6 3,2

Waistbands on jeans, E328 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 3,0

graduated cloth clamps 16 - 20

Fine, tightly woven materials E334 / V <--- " 6,0 7,0 - 2,7

(e.g. poplin) 10 - 38

558 Material

1.4.1 Device Summary Table and Function Characteristics 578 E . . . / . . .

- 211241 Loose, coarse weave cloth E2107 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7

- 221301

- 231391 thickness 10 - 38 12 - 34

* The construction set upper gimp guide 578 5101 must be ordered additionally.

for width area stroke

Cutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Looping

mm mm mm mm

before after min. max.

Buttonhole form

558 Nähgut

L1 - L3 Under th., Gimp

Loose, coarse weave cloth E2407 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7

L1 - L3

Buttonholes in elastic material

(e.g. knitware)

Waistbands on jeans and similar E2417 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 3,0

- 241291

Loose, coarse weave cloth, E2431 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7

plastic stitch formation L1 - L4

thickness 10 - 50 12 - 50

- 251301 Materials of variing quality and E512 / E512 / V <--- ---> N Upper thread 5,0 7,0 / 0,4 2,7

mm mm mm mm

for width area stroke

Cutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Looping

before after min. max.

Buttonhole form

Gimp long

20 Under th., Gimp

10 - 38

Buttonholes similar to E209 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,0

handworked quality 10 - 38 Under thread,

High quality clothing of E212 / E213 / V <-- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,4 2,7

variing thicknesses 10 - 38 10 - 38

Loose, coarse weave cloth

Buttonholes similar to handworked E309 / ---> N Upper thread 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,0

quality in outerwear 18 + 24

Small buttonholes in elastic material E311 / * ---> N " 4,1 5,2 0,4 3,2

(e.g. knitware) with round or flat gimp 6 - 34

Materials of variing quality and E312 / E312 / V <--- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,4 2,7

Garment leather E327 / V <--- ---> N " 5,0 7,0 - / 0,6 3,2

Waistbands on jeans, E328 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 3,0

graduated cloth clamps 16 - 20

Fine, tightly woven materials E334 / V <--- " 6,0 7,0 - 2,7

(e.g. poplin) 10 - 38

558 Material

1.4.2 Device Summary Table and Function Characteristics 558 E . . . / . . .

- 11241 Loose, coarse weave cloth E107 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7

- 21301

- 31391 thickness 10 - 38 12 - 34

* The construction set upper gimp guide 578 5101 must be ordered additionally.

for width area stroke

Cutting Short trimmer Buttonhole Cutting Looping

mm mm mm mm

before after min. max.

Buttonhole form

558 Nähgut

L1 - L3 Under th., Gimp

Loose, coarse weave cloth E407 / ---> N Upper thread, 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7

L1 - L3

Buttonholes in elastic material

(e.g. knitware)

Waistbands on jeans and similar E417 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 3,0

- 41291

Loose, coarse weave cloth, E431 / ---> N " 4,5 5,8 0,4 2,7

plastic stitch formation L1 - L4

thickness 10 - 50 12 - 50

- 51301 Materials of variing quality and E512 / E512 / V <--- ---> N Upper thread 5,0 7,0 / 0,4 2,7

1.5 Optional Equipment

558 - 10012 Electromagnetically operated upper thread catcher

The electromagnetically operated upper thread catcher immediately after the thread trimming procedure grips the upper thread. It holds this clamped and inserts it in the right seam during sewing of the next buttonhole.

This means:

Secure seam b eginning even with lig ht , loose cloth.

•

Beginning sti tches pulled t i ght.

•

Neating the u nderside of the butt onhole is unnec es sary becaus e t he beginning

•

thread is sewn over.

The sub-class 558 - 221301 ha s t he upper thr ead catcher as standard equip ment. It is available on request for all other sub-classes.

558 1501 Thread oiler

For improving thread glide in extremely thickness material.

557 1103 Gimps roller holder on the table top

For lower Gimps which are stiff and hard to bend.

558 3001 Thread unreeler, complete

For holding thread or wool cones. The attachment is to the middle traverse of the table frame.

558 1731 Stop for buttonhole interval from 70 - 330 mm

App. 1062 Halogen sewing light App. 1541 Mounting kit 798 500088 Sewing light transformer

Stops for the clearance between material edge and buttonhole are available in different lengths on request.

2. Operation

2.1 Removal and Placement of th e Clamp Plates

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug. Remove or place the clamp plates only with the machine turned off.

The removal or placement of the clamp pl ates 3 and 5 occur s i n the machine end position (see Chapter 2.3).

The clamp operating lever 1 must be open !

This is the case when it is pushed to the back until it hits.

ATTENTION !

In order to avoid damage to the needle the combined finger-eye protection 4 must remain swung down.

Sub-class -231391 and -251301:

Removing the clamp plates

–

Swing the clamp plate holder 2 away to the side.

–

Reach under each nail slit 6 and lift the c l amp plate.

–

Remove the clamp plates to the front.

Placing the clamp plates

–

The clamp operators 8 must reach into the forks of the clamp arms.

–

Push the clamp plates to the right or left against the pressure screws 7 and plate edges 9.

–

Place the clamp plates over the setbolt 10 on the material support plate.

–

Swing the clamp plates holder 2 back over the clamp plates. The clamp plates are secured against li fting.

–

Check by closing the clamp operating lever 1 if the clamps open and close correctly.

-221301

-211241 und -241291

Sub-classes -211241, -221301 and -241291:

Removing the clamp plates

–

Swing the clamp plate holder 1 away to the side.

–

Pull the spring mounted slide 3 in the direction of the arrow and remove the right clamp plate.

–

Reach under t he nail slit 2 and remove the left cl amp plate.

Placing the clamp plates

–

Place first the left, then the right clamp plate.

–

The clamp operators 5 must reach into the forks of the clamp arms.

–

Push the clamp plates to the right or left against the pressure screws 4 and plate edges 6.

–

Place the clamp plates over the setbolt 7 on the the material support plate. Hereby pull the spring mounted slide 3 in the direction of the arrow and let catch in groove 8.

–

Swing the clamp plate holder 1 over the clamp plates again. The clamp plates are secured against li fting.

–

Check by closing the clamp operating lever if the clamps op en and close correctly.

2.2 Turning On - Quick Stop - Restart

Caution Risk of Injury !

Do not reach in to the area of m oving machine parts, particularly not under the knife and t he cloth clam ps.

Turning on

Turn on the drive motor with the hand shift lever 1.

–

Loosen the ha nd shift lever 1 out of i ts catch by bring into position The catch prevents an unwanted turni ng on of the dri ve m ot or.

Turning off

Turn off the drive motor,

–

Place the hand shift lever 1 in position The hand shift lever catches in this position.

–

Step forward on pedal 2.

"I"

as desired,

Caution Risk of Injury !

As long as the operator is not yet fa miliar with the machine, she should turn off the motor with t he pedal or hand shift lever after sewing each butt onhole. restarting should occur only after the cloth has been repositioned and the clamp are closed.

with the hand shift lever 1 or the pedal 2.

"0"

pulling up

on the ball head and

Quick stop

The safety system of the 558 has two possibilities for an s

ewing process

–

Put the hand shift lever 1 in position

–

Step pedal 2 forward.

by operating errors or malfunctions (e.g. needle or thread breakage):

"0"

immediate stop during the

1 2

Restart

In order to avoid damage to the machine, when restarting after a quick stop it is essential to proceed as follows:

–

Lift the idle lever 5 until it jumps off of the nose 4 of the length setting slide 6.

Attention !

This point is only to be carried out if the machine was turned off immediately after the first sewing stitches.

–

Pull the turn-off lever 1 forward.

ATTENTION !

Before turning on the machine always bring th e needle into the high posit i on by catching in the handwheel 3. A bending of the needle or damage to the material is thus avoided.

Exception:

The handwheel m ay not , however, be turned at that moment in which, after the end of the sewing sequence, the cutting movement of the upper thread knife begins and this lies under t he needle hole of the needle p l ate.

–

Tur n the handwheel 3 in the dir ection of the a rrow until it catches. The handwheel is arrested in this position by brake lever 2. The needle is in its highest position.

–

Open the clamp pl ates and remove material.

–

Close the clamp plates again.

–

Turn on the machine with the hand shift lever. The material support plate moves to its end position. The needle remains in its highest position.

ATTENTION !

Only turn the hand crank of the high-speed wheel when the handwheel ha s caught in the direction of turn.

2.3 End Position of the Sewing Machine

–

Turn handwheel 2 u ntil it catches. The needle is in its highest position.

ATTENTION !

Before turning the hand cran k i t is essential that the needle be brought into its high position by moving the handwheel into its catch. A bending of the needle or damage to the material is thus avoided.

Exception:

–

Turn the hand crank until the clamp closing lever 1 automatically opens the clamp arms. Depending on the setting of the machine to cutting occurs before or after operation of the cutter bar 3.

–

The machine is in the end position.

before

after

sewing opening

2.4 Needles, T hreads and Gimps

T able: Threads and Gimps

Needle thread type and thickness

Hook thread type and thickness

Lower gimp type and thickness

Upper gimp type and thickness

558-221301 558-231391 558-251301

Polye ster fiber thread, schappe-spun

70/3

Polye ster fiber thread, schappe-spun

70/3

Tube or wire gimp

not required

Sub-class

558-211241 558-241291

Polye ster fiber thread, schappe-spun

70/3

Polye ster fiber thread, schappe-spun

30/3

not required

Twist gi mp

15/3

Needles

Needle system: 558 Needle thickness: Nm 90 - 110

Replacing the needle

–

Swing up the combined fing er-eye protection. The needle is accessable without hinderance.

–

Loosen screw 1 and remove the needle.

–

Push the new needle as far as possible into the hole in the needle bar 2.

Attention !

The furrow of the needle must show to the front with the machine in its end position.

–

Tighten screw 1 again.

–

Swing the com bi ned finger-eye protection back again .

Threads

As needle and hook thread, spun, synthetic fiber thread or silk thread can be used. The appearance o f the buttonhole i s c onsiderably influenc ed by

–

the thread used.

–

the use of differe nt strengths for need l e and hook thread.

Dependent on type of sewing thread and material.

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug. Replace the needle only with the machine turned off.

Gimps

The gimp should stabilize the buttonhole and at the same time by it form. It should have the following character i stics:

–

not too thick, but pliable and firm

–

uniform diameter

The recommend ed threads and gimps i n t he table along si de are only guide li n es. Dependent on sewing device (E no.) and mat erial other t hreads and th read thicknesses may also be required.

2.5 Threading of the Underthread (Hook Thread)

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug. Thread the underthread only with the machine turned off.

The threading of the underthreads 1 (Page 28) is conducted as shown in the illustrations on pages 26 and 28

–

Bring the machine in its end position (see Chapter 2.3). In the end position the hook bracket with the underthread te nsion must point t o the front (to the seamstress).

–

Remove the clamp plates (see Chapter 2.1).

–

Tilt up the machine head. The gas pressu re spring ai ds the tilting and holds the machine head i n i ts position.

–

Place the thread spool on the thread stand and guide the thread through hole a.

–

Guide the thread through the thread guide b in the thread guide tube c on the back of the housing.

–

Guide the thread through the thread guide tube d.

–

Guide the thread with the ai d of the threading wire from the accessor i es pack into the spreader drive spindle e. For this insert the threading wire into the spreader drive spindle from above.

–

Lead the thread over the guide pin f and past behind the tension plate g.

–

Lead the thread between the t wo t ension discs of the underthread tensi on h up over the guide pin i.

–

Guide the thread through the eye of the torsion spring k.

–

With sub-classes through the hole of the br i ng-forward lever l.

–

Lead the thread up through the thread guide tube m.

–

Lead the thread through the spreader stop n.

–

Guide the thre ad from below through hole o in the hook an d needle hole p of the needle plate. Hereby let an approx. 25 mm long underthread end hang out of the needle hole.

-211241, -221301

in alphabetical order of the letters

and

-241291

additionally guide the thread

= Gimp thread (Page 28)

-231391

-251301

-211241

-221301

-241291

Path of the underthread when using yarn or wool cones:

If yarn or wool cones are used as hook thread then these are t o be set on the as optional equipment available thread unreeler 1 (Order no. 558 3001) underneath the table.

–

Lead the thread through the thread guides under the table.

–

Lead the thread up through the thread tub e.

–

The threading of the machine a bove th e t able is conducted as described above.

2.6 Threading the Gimp

Caution Risk of Injury !

Pull the mains plug. Thread the lower an d upper gimp onl y w i th the machine turned off.

–

Place tube and wire gimp rolls on the gimp roll holder 1. Place the gimp rolls with crosswinding vertically on the yarn plate 2 for an easy pull off of the gimp or thread.

–

For stiff and difficult to bend lower gimps choose the short feed over the as optional equi pment available gimp roll holder 3 (Order no. 557 1103).

Lower gimp threading

The threading of the lower gimp is conducted as shown in the lllustrations on pages 30, 32 and 33

in the alphabetical order of the letters

Sub-classes -211241, -221301, -231391 and -251301

–

Remove the clamp plates (see Chapter 2.1).

–

Thread the gimp from the gimp r ol l holder 1 or the yarn plate 2 th rough hole a in the thread stand.

–

Lead the gimp in order through the gimp guide b and the gimp guide tubes c and d.

–

Thread the gimp through gimp guide e.

–

With sub-class Through the draw spring the loosening gimp thread is held taut during simultaneous turning movement of the hook bracket and ope rat i on of the gripper knife.

–

Thread the gimp through the g i m p hole g of the needle pl ate. Allow an approx. 25 mm long gimp en d to hang out of t he gimp hole.

4 = Hook thread (Page 32) 5 = Gimp thread (Page 32)

–

Replace the clamp plates again (see Chapter 2.1).

-221301

the gimp must also be threa ded through the draw spring f.

+ 72 hidden pages