Contents Page:
Preface and General Safety Information
Part 1: Operating Instructions Class 550-16-23
1. Product Description ............................................ 5
2. Proper Use.................................................. 5
3 Technical Data ............................................... 6
4. Operation
4.1 Threading the Needle Thread ....................................... 7
4.2 Setting the Needle Thread Tension .................................... 9
4.3 Releasing the Needle Thread Tension .................................. 9
4.4 Setting the Thread Regulator ....................................... 10
4.5 Winding the Hook Thread ......................................... 11
4.6 Changing the Hook Thread Bobbin .................................... 12
4.7 Setting the Hook Thread Tension ..................................... 13
4.8 Changing the Needle ............................................ 14
4.9 Sewing Foot Lift ............................................... 15
4.10 Arresting the Sewing Foot in the High Position............................. 16
4.11 Setting the Sewing Foot Pressure .................................... 16
4.12 Stroke Height of the Sewing Foot during Lifting ............................ 17
4.13 Pulsating sewing foot ............................................ 17
4.14 Knee Switch ................................................. 18
4.15 Left “Correction Value” / Fullness Value Pedal ............................. 18
1
5. Operating the Controls 550-16-23
5.1 Manual Sewing................................................ 19
5.1.1 Setting the Fullness Value ......................................... 19
5.1.2 Turning the Supplementary Thread Tension On/Off .......................... 19
5.1.3 Turning the Thread Tension Off/On .................................... 19
5.1.4 Bartack Inversion .............................................. 20
5.2 Sewing with a Program (Automatic) ................................... 20
5.2.1 Program Selection.............................................. 20
5.2.1.1 Direct Program Selection ......................................... 20
5.2.1.2 Program Selection via Menu ....................................... 21
5.2.1.3 Side Selection in a Program........................................ 21
5.2.3 Changing Fullness Values ......................................... 22
5.3 Programmable Functions.......................................... 23
5.3.1 Generating a New Program ........................................ 23
5.3.2 Temporary Changes in a Step ....................................... 24
Contents Page:
5.3.3 Saving Changes in the Program ..................................... 24
5.3.4 Deleting a Program ............................................. 24
6. Sewing .................................................... 25
7. Maintenance
7.1 Cleaning and Checking........................................... 26
7.2 Lubrication .................................................. 28
1. Product Description
2. Proper Use
The Dürkopp Adler 550-16-23 is a configured sewing station for the
sewing-on of sleeves.
The workstations are equipped with a single needle, double lockstitch,
post-bed machine with bottom and top belt feed.
30 different fullness values can be selected via the keypad. In order to
achieve a firmer pulling-on of the stitch, a supplementary tension can
be added when a high fullness value is turned on.
Further details:
Step motor technology for top and bottom belt feed.
•
Material-protective belt feed with two individually powered belts for
•
the top and bottom feed.
The 550-16 is a sewing place which can properly be used for sewing
litght to medium weight material. Such material is, as a rule, material
made up of textile fibres. This material is used in the garment industry.
Further, it may be possible to also conduct so-called technical seams
with this special sewing machine. Here, however, it is essential that the
operator (
Dürkopp Adler AG would be pleased to collaborate) make an
evaluation of the possible dangers because such applications are, on
the one hand, comparatively rare and, on the other, the variety is
immense. Dependent of the result of this evaluation, appropriate safety
measures are to be taken.
Generally, only dry material should be sewn on this machine. The
material should not exceed the thickness of 7 mm when compressed
by the lowered sewing foot. The material should not contain any hard
objects, otherwise it would be necessary to protect the eyes during the
sewing process. For the time being, no such guard is available.
The seams are produced generally with threads of textile fibres of a
dimension up to 70/3 - 140/3 NeB. Before using any other threads it is
necessary, also in this case, to estimate the consequential dangers
and to take, if necessary,
the respective safety measures.
This special sewing machine may only be installed and operated
in a dry and clean environment. If the sewing machine is used in
another environment which is not dry and clean, further measures,
which are to be agreed upon, may be necessary
(see EN 60204-31: 1999).
We, as a manufacturer of industrial sewing machines, assume that at
least semi-skilled operating personnel will be working on our products
so that all normal operations and, where applicable, their dangers are
presumed to be known.
1
5
3. Technical Data
Noise Workstation-specific emission value to DIN 45635-48-A-1-KL2
Cl. 550-16-23 Lc = 79 dB (A)
Stitch length: 4,4 [mm]
Number of
stitches: 2.500 [min
Material: G1 DIN 23328 2-plies
-1
]
Stitch type
Needle system:
Needle thickness (as per E-No.:) [Nm]
Thickness of sewing thread max.: [Nm]
Number of stitches max.: [min
-1
] 4000
Stitch length max.: [mm]
Max. clearance under the sewing feet:
- Sewing [mm]
- Lifted [mm]
Operating pressure: [bar] 6
Air consumption per work cycle: approx. [NL]
Nominal voltage:
Dimensions(L x B xH) [mm]
Working level (ex works): [mm]
Double lockstitch
134-35
797
Sy1955-1
70 - 100
50/3
1,5 - 5,5
0,6
190-240V 50/60 Hz
140 x 750 x 1300
790
Weight [kg]
140
6
4. Operation
4.1 Threading the Needle Thread
Caution Risk of Injury !
Turn the main switch off !
Thread the needle thread only with the sewing machine turned off.
–
Place the thread rolls on the thread stand and guide the needle and
the hook thread through the thread guides.
The thread guide 1 must be in horizontal position above the thread
rolls.
–
Thread the needle thread as shown in the illustration.
1
1
7
321
4
Illus. A: Correct thread interlacing
in the middle of the material
Illus. B: Needle thread tension too low
or
hook thread tension too high
high
Illus. C: Needle thread tension too
high
or
hook thread tension too low
8
4.2 Setting the Needle Thread Tension
Pre-tension
With open main tension 3 a slight residual tension on the needle thread
is necessary. The residual tension is created by pre-tension 1.
The pre-tension 1 influences the length of the cut needle thread end at
the same time (starting thread for the next seam).
–
Base position:
Turn the knurled nut 1, until its face is flush with bolt 2.
–
Shorter starting thread:
Turn knurled nut 1 clockwise.
Main tension
The main tension 3 is to be set as low as possible.
The interlacing of the threads should lie in the middle of the material.
Too high thread tensions can lead to undesired puckering and thread
breakage in thin material.
–
Set the main tension 3 so that a uniform stitch formation is
achieved.
Increase tension = Turn the knurled nut clockwise
Decrease tension = Turn the knurled nut -
counterclockwise
1
ATTENTION !
The main tension can be opened through the control.
(e.g. for sewing Polsters)
Supplementary tension
The supplementary tension 4 can be switched on for thicker gathering
(programmable).
–
Set the supplementary tension 4 lower than the main tension 3.
4.3 Releasing the Needle Thread Tension
Automatic
The needle thread tension is automatically opened during thread
trimming and lifting of the sewing foot.
9
4.4 Setting the Thread Regulator
76 5
Caution Risk of Injury !
Turn the main switch off .
Set the thread regulator only with the sewing machine turned off.
The needle thread quantity required for stitch formation is regulated by
the thread regulator 6.
Only a precisely set thread regulator assures an optimal sewing result.
With a correct setting the needle thread loop must glide over the
thickest part of the hook with a light tension.
–
Loosen screw 5.
–
Set the position of the thread regulator.
–
Tighten screw 5.
Setting note:
When the largest thread quantity is required, the check spring 7 must
be pulled up approx. 0.5 mm from its upper end position. This is the
case when the needle thread loop passes the maximum hook
circumference.
10
4.5 Winding the Hook Thread
–
–
–
–
–
321
Slip the bobbin onto the bobbin winder 2.
Pull the thread through the guide 3 and the tension 4.
Wind the thread clockwise about 5 times around the bobbin core
and tear off at the thread clamp.
Swing the bobbin winder lever 1 towards the bobbin .
Sewing
The bobbin winder lever will stop the winding process as soon as
the bobbin is full.
1
ATTENTION !
If the thread is not to be wound during sewing,
it is essential to arrest the sewing foot in the raised position.
(See chapter 4.10)
11
4.6 Changing the Hook Thread Bobbin
21
Caution Risk of Injury !
Turn the main switch off .
Change the hook thread bobbin only with the machine turned off.
3
4
1
7
6
5
Removing the empty bobbin
–
Swing the hook cover 2 down.
–
Bring the needle bar in high position.
–
Lift the bobbin case flap 1.
–
Take out the bobbin case top 3 with the bobbin 7.
–
Remove the empty bobbin from the bobbin case top 3.
Inserting a full bobbin
–
Insert the full bobbin in the bobbin case top 3.
–
Pull the hook thread through slit 6 under the tension spring 5 until
in the drilled hole 4.
–
Pull the hook thread approx. 5 cm out of the bobbin case 3.
The bobbin must turn in the direction of the arrow when the thread
is pulled off.
–
Insert the bobbin case 3 again.
–
Close the bobbin case flap 2.
–
Push the hook cover 2 upward.
12
4.7 Setting the Hook Thread Tension
8
9
3
105
Caution Risk of Injury!
Turn the main switch off .
Set the hook thread tension only with the machine turned off.
Half of the necessary hook thread tension should be created by the
brake spring 8 and halb by the tension spring 5.
Setting the tension spring
–
The bobbin case top 3 should slowly lower under is own weight
(see right illustration).
–
Set the tension spring 5 at the adjusting screw 10 until the
necessary tension value is reached.
Note:
The hook thread tension should amount to 20 +/- 5 grams.
1
13
4.8 Changing the Needle
3
1
2
Caution Risk of Injury!
Turn the main switch off .
Change the needle only with the sewing machine turned off.
–
Loosen screw 1.
–
Push the new needle into the drilled hole of the needle bar 3 up to
the stop.
ATTENTION !
The furrow 2 of the needle must show to the hook point.
–
Tighten screw 1.
ATTENTION !
After a change to another needle thickness the clearance of the hook
to the needle must be corrected (see Service Instructions).
The non-observance of the above correction can lead to following
faults:
–
Change to a thinner needle: - Missing stitches
- Damage to the thread
–
Change to a thicker needle:
- Damage to the hook point
- Damage to the needle
14
4.9 Sewing Foot Lift
4
1
The sewing foot can be lifted pneumatically by operating the pedal 4.
Pneumatic sewing foot lift (pedal)
–
Step half back on the pedal.
Lift the sewing feet.
–
Step completely back on the pedal.
Activate the thread trimmer and lift the sewing feet.
15
4.10 Arresting the Sewing Foot in the High Position
321
The pneumatically raised sewing foot can be arrested in the high
position with button 3 (e.g. for winding the hook thread).
–
With the sewing machine idle, step half back on the pedal.
The sewing foot lifts.
–
Press button 3 and release the pedal.
The raised sewing foot is arrested in the high position.
–
Step half back on the pedal again.
The sewing foot is released.
4.11 Setting the Sewing Foot Pressure
The desired sewing foot pressure is set with the knurled screw 1.
–
Loosen lock nut 2.
–
Increase the sewing foot pressure
= Turn screw 1 clockwise.
–
Decrease sewing foot pressure
= Turn screw 1 counterclockwise.
–
Tighten lock nut 2 again.
16
21
4.12 Stroke Height of the Sewing Foot during Lifting
The stroke height of the sewing foot during lifting can be limited by the
knurled nut 1 (max. 3 mm).
–
Loosen the lock nut 2.
–
Increase the stroke of the sewing foot
= Turn the knurled nut 1 counterclockwise.
Decrease the stroke of the sewing foot
= Turn the knurled nut clockwise.
ATTENTION !
The stroke height of the sewing foot should not be so high that the
needle bar strikes on the foot when the machine turns.
4.13 Pulsating sewing foot
In order to facilitate the rolling of the material in the arc, the sewing
foot will be lifted with the needle frequency synchronously. The height
could be adjusted using the setting wheel 3.
–
Position 0 on the setting wheel 3 ® no stroke of the sewing foot.
–
Position 10 on the setting wheel 3 ® maximum stroke.
543
1
ATTENTION
Thinner Material ® lesser stroke.
Thicker Material ® greater stroke.
Normal Material ® position between 2 and 4 on the setting wheel.
Basic settings
–
Position the needle at the lower reversal point.
–
Turn the setting wheel 3 in a way that the figure 2 is turned towards
the operator.
–
Loose the Allen screw 5 and turn the disc 4 to the right until the
sewing foot slightly lifts.
–
Tighten the Allen screw 5.
17
4.14 Knee Switch
21
With the knee switch 1 one moves from one program step to the next in
the sewing programs.
–
Press the knee switch.
The next program step is called up.
4.15 Left “Correction Value” / Fullness Value Pedal
The left pedal 2 has a dual function.
1.
Automatic operation
In automatic operation the fullness value can be corrected with the
pedal.
2.
Manual operation
In manual operation the individual fullness levels are selected with the
pedal.
18
5. Operating the Controls 550-16-23
The 550-16-23 is equipped with programmable controls. The functions
can be programmed via the keypad.
5.1 Manual Sewing
If sewing is to take place without a program, the manual sewing mode
is to be activated using one of the following methods:
–
Press the “P” key.
–
Press the “0” key 2x.
Program “0" = manual is selected.
–
Select the fullness value with the0-15keys or the left pedal
(Setting-Global Parameters [13]).
–
Start the sewing cycle.
In manual operation the step and program number
displays are turned off.
5.1.1 Setting the Fullness Value
The desired fullness value is entered with the “1”to“15” keys. An
intermediate value (1/2) is set by pressing neighbouring fullness value
keys simultaneously.
Setting a fullness value: (Example: Fullness value 5)
–
Press the “5” key.
5.1.2 Turning the Supplementary Thread Tension On/Off
The supplementary thread tension can be turned on at any time.
–
Press the “F” key.
The supplementary tension is turned on.
The green LED under the key is lit.
–
Press the “F” key again.
The supplementary tension is turned off.
The green LED goes out.
5.1.3 Turning the Thread Tension Off/On
1
By simultaneously pressing the “F” and “1” keys, the thread tension
can be turned off and on again.
–
Hold down the “F” key and tap the “1” key.
The thread tension is turned off.
–
Hold down the “F” key and tap the “1” key again.
The thread tension is turned on.
19
5.1.4 Bartack Inversion
The bartack set in the parameters (see Part 4: Programming
Instructions) is inverted (suppressed) by simultaneously pressing the
“F” and “2” keys.
Seam beginning:
–
Press the “F” and “2” keys simultaneously.
The bartack is not sewn.
Seam end:
–
Press the “F” and “2” keys simultaneously.
The bartack is not sewn.
5.2 Sewing with a Program (Automatic)
In automatic operation the step and program number
displays show the selected program and the active step.
Additionally, the selected piece (left or right sleeve) is shown in the
program number display. At the end of the program this display blinks.
5.2.1 Program Selection
5.2.1.1 Direct Program Selection
Programs already generated for a specific sleeve can be called up as
follows:
–
Press the “P” key.
The display shows:
–
Enter the two-digit program number.
Example: Program 17 is to be called up enter => “17".
The display shows :
–
After activation of a program, step 01 is displayed.
The program is immmediately ready for operation.
The “Automatic” operation mode is active.
–
If the program is not present in the memory, the left display blinks.
By holding down the “Y” key and tapping the “P” key, a new
program can now be entered or the program search repeated by
pressing the “P” key.
20
5.2.1.2 Program Selection via Menu
If the program number is unknown, all programs can be run through
sequentially in the following manner.
Order of operations
–
Press the “P” key.
Change-over to the “Program Selection” mode.
–
Press the “Y” key.
The first program is shown.
Each pressing of the “Y” key moves to and shows the next
program.
If the program has valid data assigned to it, the following display
appears:
If the program has no valid data assigned to it, the following
appears:
–
If the displayed program is to be selected,
press the “E” key. (Example: Program 01)
The following display appears.
1
5.2.1.3 Side Selection in a Program
After selection of a program one always goes first to the right piece (if
a right sleeve has been programmed).
In the automatic mode one can, however, alternate between “right” and
“left” sleeves at any time.
–
Press the “E” key.
The controls switch to the left sleeve.
The display shows:
–
Press the “E” key again.
The controls switch to the right sleeve again.
The display shows:
21
5.2.2 Changing Fullness Values
For the adaption to differing types of material with the program step,
the fullness values can be changed via the “0"to”15" keys at any time.
Via the supplementary foot switch (see Chapter 6.16), the current
fullness value can be increased or decreased by 0.5.
Increasing or decreasing a fullness value by a whole value:
Example: Set fullness value = 08
–
Press the “9" key.
The next higher fullness value is selected.
–
Press the “7" key.
The next lower fullness value is selected.
The changed fullness value is automatically deleted through selection
of the next program step.
Increasing or decreasing a fullness value by a half value:
Example: Set fullness value = 08
–
Step forward on the foot pedal.
The fullness value is increased by 0.5.
–
Step back on the foot pedal.
The fullness value is decreased by 0.5.
The changed fullness value is automatically deleted through selection
of the next program step.
22
5.3 Programmable Functions
5.3.1 Generating a New Program
The machine settings described in the following are saved in memory
with each program.
The generation of a new program starts with the entry of a non-existent
program number.
–
Press the “P” key.
–
Enter a 2-digit program number
The left display blinks.
(If the left display does not blink the selected program already
exists.)
–
Hold down the “Y” key and tap the “P” key.
“01" appears in the middle display.
The dots in the middle display blink.
1
The dots in the ”Step" and the “Sleeve Side” displays blink.
Note:
One can alternate between left and right piece with the “E” key until the
first fullness value/ special function has been selected (the sleeve side
display no longer blinks).
–
Enter a fullness value by pressing one of the keys from 0 to 15.
If desired, activate supplementary functions for the step by
pressing on one of the following keys :
- F : Supplementary thread tension on / off
- F+1: Needle thread tension on/ off
–
Press the knee switch.
The next step is selected.
The entered value is saved.
The next value can be entered.
–
This programming order can be continued up to step 13.
–
Press the “E” key.
The established values are mirrored for the second piece and
saved to memory.
or
–
Press the “Y”+"P“ keys.
The established values are saved only for the current piece and
are not mirrored.
Note:
During teaching, one can go back one step at a time with the “Y” key.
23
5.3.2 Temporary Changes in a Step
5.3.3 Saving Changes in the Program
Every function in a step can be changed as required. This change
applies only for this program run. When the step is exited these
changes are lost. Parameter changes can also be made.
–
Press the key for the desired fullness value.
The new fullness value appears in the left display.
When the program is run again the original value is activated
again.
If the program is to be changed permanently, proceed as follows :
–
Select the step to be altered.
–
Hold down the “Y” key and tap the “P” key.
The controls change to the editing mode.
The decimal points in the step display blink.
Example
Enter a new fullness value.
–
If desired, enter further parameters, such as e.g. supplementary
thread tension.
–
Hold down the “Y” key and tap the “P” key.
The complete program is saved.
The program continues with the altered step.
Or
–
Press the “E” key.
The program is mirrored to the other sleeve side,
5.3.4 Deleting a Program
If an active program is to be deleted, this is possible with the following
key entries :
–
Hold down the “Y” key and tap the “P” and “E” keys.
–
The keys must be held for 2 seconds, then the program number
goes out. After the release of all keys, the controls branch to the
program number entry.
The program number display blinks.
A new program number can be entered.
Note:
The deleting of a program is only possible in a program which is not
running.
24
6. Sewing
Sewing cycle Operation / Remarks
V Before the start of sewing
Initial position
Positioning the material at
the seam beginning
Beginning the seam
Beginning bartack and continuing to
sew
At the middle of the seam
Interrupting the
sewing cycle
Continuing the
sewing cycle
Z Sewing an intermediate bartack
bartack
Changing the fullness value
- Pedal in rest position.
Sewing machine idle.
Needle up. Sewing foot down.
- Step half back on the pedal.
The sewing foot rises .
- Position the material.
- Release the pedal.
The sewing foot lowers onto the material.
- Step forward on the pedal and hold down.
The beginning bartack is sewn (if given).
Then the machine continues to sew at the
speed determined with the pedal.
1
- Release the pedal (rest position).
The machine stops.
The sewing foot is down.
- Step forward on the pedal.
The machine sews at the speed
determined
with the pedal.
- Press the key [OH] and hold the pedal down.
The machine sews in reverse as long as key [OH]
is pressed.
The speed is determined by the pedal.
- Operate the fullness key or left pedal.
The changed fullness value is activated.
At the seam end
Remove the material
- Step completely back on the pedal and hold down.
The end bartack is sewn (if given).
The thread is trimmed.
The machine stops in the 2nd position.
The sewing foot is raised.
25
7. Maintenance
7.1 Cleaning and Checking
Caution Risk of Injury!
Turn the main switch off .
Conduct maintenance work only with the machine switched off.
The maintenance work must be carried out at least at the intervals
specified in the tables (see the column “Service hours”).
When working very linty materials, shorter maintenance intervals may
result.
A clean machine protects against malfunctions.
1
Maintenance work Explanantion Service
to be carried ou hours
Machine head
8
- Remove sewing dust and
thread ends.
(e.g. with compressed-air gun)
Clean particularly:
- the bottom of the throat plate
- transporter bars
- the space around the hook 1
- the bobbin case
- thread trimmer
- the space around the needle
26
6
4
8
2
10
1
2
3
Maintenance work Explanantion Service
to be carried out hours
Pneumatic System
- Check water level in the
pressure regulator.
- Clean the filter element.
The water level should not reach the filter element 1.
- After turning-in the draining screw 3 drain the
water separator 2 under pressure.
The filter element 1 separates dirt and condensed
water.
- Disconnect the machine from the compressed air line.
- Turn-in the draining screw 3.
The pneumatic system of the machine must be
pressure-free.
- Unscrew the water separator 2.
- Unscrew the filter element 1.
Wash the dirty filter tray and the filter element with
petroleum benzine (no solvent!) and
blow clean by compressed air.
- Re-assemble the conditioning unit.
40
500
1
- Check the tightness of the
system.
500
27
7.2 Lubrication
1
Caution Risk of Injury !
Oil can cause skin rashes.
Avoid longer skin contact.
After contact wash yourself thoroughly.
ATTENTION !
The handling and disposal of mineral oils is subject to legal
regulations.
Deliver used oil to an authorized reception point.
Protect your environment.
Take care not to spill any oil.
For lubrication of the special sewing machine, use exclusively the
lubrication oil ESSO-SP-NK 10 or an equivalent oil with the following
specification:
–
Viscosity at 40° C: 10 mm²/s
–
Flash point: 150° C
ESSO SP-NK 10 can be obtained from the sales offices of
DÜRKOPP ADLER AG under the following parts numbers:
2 liter container: 9047 000013
5 liter container: 9047 000014
Maintenance work Explanation Serviceto be carried out hours
Lubrication of the machine
head
The lubrication of the machine head occurs via a central
oil wick system. Except for the hook all bearings are
lubricated via the oil reservoir 1.
40
28
- The oil level should not drop below the mark “MIN”
.
- Fill oil up to the “MAX” mark through the drilled hole
in the viewing glass.
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