DRD-Pers
1.
Table Saw
1.
Plan:
1.DONE Buy the Ridgid TS3650.
2.DONE Buy a push shoe (see if they have one at Home Depot, else could buy the Craftsman one that Sears has).
1.Use a push shoe rather than a push stick:
1."Push Shoe" http://home.att.net/~waterfront-woods/Articles/PushShoe.htm
1.[This is a very good idea - should use it rather than a push stick.]
2.Safety and the Table Saw - "Push Sticks and Hold-Down Devices" http://www.woodshopdemos.com/safe-4.htm
3.Pre-made:
1.http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&pid=00932190000&cat=Power+Tool+Acce ssories&subcat=Tool+Safety&vertical=TOOL&ihtoken=1
2.http://www.vermontamerican.com/Products/productdetail.htm?G=190912&GRP=190912&I=70515
3.Make or buy a featherboard.
1.How to make a featherboard: http://www.woodzone.com/tips/featherboard.htm
2.http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=1651
1.12
3.http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-10-005-Feather-Loc-Featherboard/dp/B000051WS9
1.17
4.Magnetic: (more expensive, probably keep it in mind and "upgrade" if necessary)
1.http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7534
1.50
5.Can see what they have at Home Depot.
4.Buy an inexpensive push block or two:
1.http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223VM/ref=pd_cp_hi_title/002-9117502-0836809?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER &pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_r=1EB0W0AGR1T8SBDZKV7R&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=277661601&pf_rd_i=B000051WS9
5.Buy a zero-clearance insert (one or more) for use with different blades.
1.They come solid; you customize it by passing the specific blade up through it.
2.Dado insert for the Ridgid:
1.http://www.amazon.com/Leecraft-RG-1-RIDGID-TS3650-Clearance/dp/B0006FKJGY
1.22
2.Positive reviews.
3.Make your own: http://www.hoistman.com/HoistMan/ZCItute.html
6.Probably buy non-silicone wax for use on the top of the table saw, to keep it from rusting.
7.Possibly buy a better saw blade.
1.Maybe Forrest WWII.
2.http://www.forrestsawblades.com/
3.DeWalt DW7657
1.http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-DW7657-General-Purpose-Blade/dp/B000H0VSHW/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/002-9117502- 0836809?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1175312167&sr=8-1
2.http://www.amazon.com/DW7657-10-Inch-General-Purpose-Woodworking/dp/B00008K2TZ
3.http://www.epinions.com/content_220309917316?linkin_id=8003929
1.After owning it for just a short time, I'm convinced that this has got to be the best value on the market. I’m a staunch supporter of the venerable Forrest WWII blade and am favorably impressed with the similar Ridge Carbide TS2000, but am also extremely impressed with the DW 7657 so far. It's difficult to distinguish cuts made between the two blades. Both are so good that it's difficult to even spot saw marks. One of the woodworking magazines did a comparison test between the DW7657 and the WWII and found the 7657 delivers remarkeably similar performance to the Forrest at close to half the cost. I agree and so do many others who've tried both.
2.the DW is only available in this configuration as a full kerf. Both Forrest and DeWalt offer stabilizers for their blades to supposedly reduce vibration, but I've yet to notice an improvement from them. DeWalt offers other thin kerf general purpose blades in other model numbers but don't have the same specs as the 7657.
3.These top shelf general purpose 40T blades also do an extremely good job crosscutting and for cutting most sheet goods. To get cleaner cuts in these materials, you'd have to maintain the level of quality and increase the tooth count to 60 to 80 teeth, which means significantly higher initial cost, and higher cost for resharpening. There are 60 and 80 tooth blades for less money, but most offer inferior quality to the DW and Forrest and will not cut as well in the long run. If you're like me, you'll find the 7657 and the Forrest will be installed on your saw for aout 90% of your cuts.
4.Freud
1.LU86R010
1.http://www.epinions.com/content_227985493636?linkin_id=8003929 by woody2
1.It's configured with smaller saws and versatility in mind, and delivers handsomely on that claim. It'll rip and crosscut well enough to leave in place for about 90% of the cuts I make. It makes cleaner cuts than a rip blade, yet can handle ripping chores that a crosscut blade can't. Only for heavy duty ripping of very thick hardwoods will I swap the LU86 for a dedicated rip blade. In comparison to it's 60 tooth cousin, the LU88, the 40 tooth LU86 offers a slightly less polished edge, but handles thicker materials more easily, and is more versatile in the range of cuts and materials it'll handle. It cuts cleanly enough to use for nearly all crosscuts in hard and soft woods. It does well in most plywoods too, splintering only slightly on the underside. The thin kerf body and shape of the teeth help this blade glide through tough woods even with average size saws, and has an effortless feel when cutting.
2.This will be my recommendation to family and friends looking for a good all around blade that will work well in a modest saw without breaking the bank. It'll see use in my saw for everyday use and as a back up to my Forrest WWII.
2.LU88R010
1.
http://www.epinions.com/content_226312687236 by woody2
Printed 18:10 3/31/07 |
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DRD-Pers
1.The LU88 is somewhat of an exception for a crosscut blade. The aggressive hook angle gives it the ability to rip respectably well on stock < 1" thick with minimal burning, minimal tearout, and at a surprisingly fast feedrate. Moderately thick pine, hard maple, cherry, black walnut, and oak were all handled with similar ease....I've even ripped 6/4" elm with it. It's difficult to detect blade marks and tearout on any cut I've made with the LU88. Most of the other good quality general purpose, combination, or crosscut blades that I've tried did not cut better than my trusty 40T Forrest WWII general purpose blade. Of the blades I've tried (see list below*), only the premier Freud F810, DW7657, and Ridge Carbide TS2000 held their own or bested the Forrest.
2.It's cut quality is ever so slightly cleaner than the Forrest's, but not quite as polished as the F810's. It will rip considerably better than the F810 and rips well compared to the Forrest in cut quality but bogs down sooner in thick stock. The Forrest and the LU88 both fall short of the aggressive ripping efficiency that a 24T dedicated ripping blade will offer, although both leave a cleaner cut....there's always a tradeoff of some sort.
3.The LU88R010 isn't quite as versatile as my Forrest and isn't likely to replace it as my primary blade, but there are definitely applications where it will be gainfully employed and appreciated for what it can do
5.thin kerf (3/32)
6.Ridge Carbide 40T
7.
8.Buy a Dado Set
1.When assembling your dado stack, use a paper towel dampened with paint thinner to wipe both sides of the outside cutters and inside chippers. This removes any sawdust that may cause the dado to be inaccurate in width.
1.http://www.woodworking.com/dcforum//DCForumID5/6144.html
2.went with the DeWalt set, and have a Ridgid TS3650 table saw. Yesterday was the first time that I really used the set to cut a wide dado (3/4" by 1/2" deep). The set was dead on, and cut a slot within 0.003-0.005 of 3/4". The cuts were straight, effortless, and easily repeatable. The saw did not feel bogged down. The dados were cut both with, and across the grain, of maple veneer plywood, and were completely chip free. I was amazed.
1.http://www.woodworking.com/dcforum//DCForumID5/6144.html
9.Probably buy a blade for cutting acrylic.
1.To what extent can I shape the acrylic by simply scoring and bending it to produce the cuts?
2.http://www.sdplastics.com/acrylic.html
1.Use metal cutting saw blades and drills which are ground for acrylic sheet.
2.Use hollow ground high speed blades with no set and at least 5 teeth per inch. Carbide tipped blades with a triple chip tooth will give the smoothest cuts. Set the blade height about 1/8" above the height of the material. This will reduce edge chipping.
3.Feed the work slowly and smoothly. Lubricate the blade with soap or beeswax to minimize gumming from the masking adhesive. Be sure the saw is up to full speed before beginning the cut. Water cooling the blade is suggested for thicknesses over 1/4", especially if edge cementing will be performed.
3.http://www.generalsaw.com/resource/plastic_tips.html
1.there are essentially two types of Acrylic sheet... Cast Acrylic and Extruded Acrylic.
2.The combination of this polymer and the slow curing process produces an acrylic that has few imperfections and is extremely hard. CAST Acrylic is therefore often referred to as "Hard Plastic".
3.The composition of this plastic is much softer and pliable than CAST Acrylic, and is often referred to as "Soft Plastic" or "Low Melt Acrylic". Herein lies the universal difficulty in machining EXTRUDED Acrylic, cutting it without melting it.
10.Possibly buy a hose and connector for Dad's vacuum; this setup can be permanently attached to the table saw to avoid difficult disconncection/reconnection.
11.Old
1.Plan:
1.Buy the DW746 (the plain version) for 950.
2.Buy the Incra TS-LS fence for 340.
3.Buy the Miter5000 sled for 246
4.Total of the above is about 1550 (450 cheaper than the Delta).
5.Perhaps buy the "mobile base".
6.Before proceding, see if Dad is interested, and see if there are any other contractor saws that can match the DW746.
2.
Vendors:
1.Amazon
2.Lowe's
3.HomeDepot
4.Woodcraft
1.http://www.woodcraft.com/
2.They have a store in Richmond:
1.The Shops at Willow Lawn
2.4925 West Broad St.
3.Richmond, VA 23230
4.Phone: 804-355-3945
5.Fax: 804-355-2532
6.richmond-retail@woodcraft.com
3.
Contenders:
1.Ridgid TS3650
1.http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/TS3650-Table-Saw
2.$549 at Home Depot
3.Until 4/11/07, save $75 for purchases between 400 and 599. Save $125 for purchases above 600.
4.549-75 = 474
5.Try to find a Home Depot 10% off coupon. Apparently, I could use a Lowe's coupon if necessary.
6.Accessories:
1.Dado insert:
1.
http://www.amazon.com/Leecraft-RG-1-RIDGID-TS3650-Clearance/dp/B0006FKJGY
Printed 18:10 3/31/07 |
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DRD-Pers
1.22
2.Positive reviews.
7.Research:
1.Press Release: http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/25150
2.http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/RidgidTS3650/RidgidTS3650Review.html
1.I believe its features place it in the "high end" category which makes the TS3650 a very good value.
2.The table height is 36.5 inches which is just a tad high.
3.The saw took about 4 hours to assemble but because it was aligned so well "out of the box", did not require any significant time to align, mainly just checking to see that it was.
4.The TS3650 uses a cradle made of a single piece iron casting which seems to be very stout.
5.The saw also incorporates an easy to remove and replace splitter / guard device. A single screw is all it takes to install the system onto the saw.
6.[nice integrated mobile base that comes standard]
7.The blade raise / tilt functions are fairly high resolution at 10 turns per inch of raise and 29.5 turns for 45 degrees of tilt. There are adjustable stops for blade angle which can be accessed easily from the top of the table. Both the raise and tilt functions are accurate and easy to operate.
8.the motor size is typical of this class of saw and has plenty of power for most operations. The saw is a stable platform when ripping sheets of plywood, I'm sure those heavy cast iron wings help a little with that. I found that most of the time the saw would pass the "nickel test" through a complete power cycle. There is a small amount of vibration on the machine though.
9.The rip fence has a fairly small head section with two cursors and a thumb wheel for moving the fence position in small increments. This thumb wheel is not a true micro-positioner and I did not find it to be very useful.
10.The rip fence locks on both the infeed and outfeed side, this makes for a very rigid fence when locked down. I have heard several uncomplimentary comments regarding the Ridgid rip fence but try as I may, I could never find any significant fault with this system. A common upgrade to a low end contractor saw is a better rip fence such as a Vega or Biesemeyer. When I evaluate fence systems in my reviews, I try to do so with actual measurements so as to remove any unjustifiable bias in the evaluation. Basically, the Ridgid rip fence is as good as any of the "upgrade" fences I have measured.
11.The rip fence was as straight as my machinists straightedge. The rip fence would lock down repeatedly within 0.004" of parallel (measured over 22"), it would repeat to a position within 0.005" (this is operator dependant). With a 10lb side load applied at the end of the rip fence it would deflect about 0.002" at that point. These are all VERY respectable numbers and compare favorably to premium replacement fences.
3.http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/articles/showarticle.asp?articleID=2188&position=0&type=article
1.Very positive review.
4.http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5843
1.Although I am satisfied with the saw there is that arbor issue that most seem to have. There is clearly a low spot on the arbor. This really doesn't bother me because I use my router for dados.
2.Also, there is a little vibration (probably fix with better belt). oh one more thing, when I made my first cut with the stock blade the cut came out jagged and there was much vibration. I thought that the saw had been damaged and considered returning it to HD. I decided to try an old blade that I had and it cut straight. I can't believe that the stock blade was warped.
3.I will try to get Rigid to send me a new blade and arbor.
4.Also the blade wrenches it came with are pathetic. I have had the blade off only twice so far and they are already bent and slip off the arbor
5.Ill have to find a couple of REAL wrenches that are flat enough and long enough to do the job.
6.As you know, the 3650 comes with a flat automotive type belt. I don't think you'll find a better belt and if you did you would have to change the pulleys too. Have you tried adjusting the belt tension to get rid of the vibration?
7.I think the 3650 is alot more saw than the Hitachi, which has among the worst fences and flimsiest wings I've seen recently on a saw in this price range. The vibration isn't likely to be from the serpentine belt. Check the alignment of the pulleys first, and be sure the belt tension on the motor is sufficient. If it persists, you may have to exchange it.
8.Moreover, it is easy to soup it up and have it handle material just like a $1500 - $2000 table.
9.I added the Shopfox extension table on the right side and moved the rails over with a new tape system to cut 51 inches on the right of the blade. I then added a 2.5 x 3 inch cherry platform on the left that receives a 27" x 48" 3/4" birch panel with glide tape that locks on the side of my workbench with a feather board system added to it. I also added the new Jessem miter gauge with the dual-indexing angle pins. The Jessem has an extremely accurate ruler and stop system that extends with the stop system out to 36" to left of the blade. Bottom Line: I do not miss the fence on the left side at all with the Jessem.
10.As far as vibration, my 3650 runs silky smooth and quietremarkably so. If my experience is typical, the saw should make a little startup noise when you first turn it on and then settle into a nice, smooth hum that you can barely hear over a shop vac.
11.mine seems to have come from the factory with loose trunnion bolts.
12.Another tipspend $20 or so and get a dial indicator, it's invaluable for getting your alignment just right. I got mine at littlemachineshop.com.
5.http://www.woodworkweb.com/woodwork/article182.html
1.[very impressed with the mobile base]
2.The controls on the Ridgid were smooth and easy to use, but one would expect smooth on a new tool. One of the most important purposes of a table saw is ripping wood, and having a good rip fence is a must. We found the rip fence on the ridgid OK, not fabulous, just OK. This is not a bad thing for a contractors saw. There is a micro adjustment, which is also OK. Moving the fence back and forth was nice and smooth and when it was locked in place it was solid! We found the fence was not too hard to adjust as it was slightly out of alignment from the factory. The other thing we liked about the rip fence and the saw … a very decent extension, like 36 inches to the right of the blade and 12 to the left of the blade.
3.The next thing we looked for was the alignment of the blade to the mitre slots. Most woodworkers don’t realize that the under carriage of the blade is adjustable and should be adjusted so that the blades are perfectly aligned with the mitre slots. This is where perfectly, non-binding ripped wood comes from. To our delight, there was NO adjustments needed to the trunion assembly, it was off slightly, but was well within the tolerances of working with wood.
Printed 18:10 3/31/07 |
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