TWIN CAM® INSTALLATION GUIDE
Thank you for purchasing a set of Red Shift Performance Cams! Red Shift Cams are developed and manufactured to the highest
standards by Zipper’s Performance Products. We grind each cam on custom designed Berco® machines that are the most advanced
in the industry. We control the design, manufacturing and testing processes on site, to provide you with excellent quality control and
batch consistency for a better finished product.
Although the process to make a set of Red Shift Cams is time consuming and painstakingly difficult, no expense is spared in creating
the most accurate and dynamically stable camshafts on the market today. Red Shift Cams will make you smile every time you reach
for the throttle. Red Shift Cams are produced by a team with decades of experience in racing, street riding, and manufacturing
experience. No matter what your application is, Red Shift Cams can help you meet or exceed your performance goals.
The information in this document is meant to share our own engine development discoveries with our customers. These “best
practices" we perform on our engines yield outstanding results in enhancing and strengthening the durability of the Twin Cam®
engine, in any high performance application.
To successfully install a new set of Red Shift Camshafts, the following inspection procedures must be performed to ensure proper
operation of your valve train. The oiling system must be operating correctly for proper valve train control, component reliability, and
the final power output. If you do not have the correct factory Service Manual, obtain one before starting this installation. Be sure to
follow all tear down and assembly instructions, and heed all cautions and warnings presented.
Before beginning the teardown, make sure that you’ve got the proper tools and parts ready to complete the installation.
Recommended Parts to Install: Recommended Specialty Tools:
Installation Introduction:
1.) Red Shift Cams 1.) Cam Plate Pressure Tester #772-910
2.) Red Shift Dual Piston Chain Tensioners (07-UP) #413-901 2.) Crankshaft Run-out Checker #772-015
3.) Complete Gasket Kit 3.) Inner Bearing Removal Tool #758-279 (99-06)
4.) High Quality Lifters #758-993 (07-UP)
5.) High Quality Adjustable Pushrods (if required) 4.) Inner Bearing Install Tool #758-787 (ALL TC)
6.) Full Compliment Inner Cam Bearings 5.) Cam Sprocket Lock Tool #758-285 (99-06)
99-06 – Inner / Outer Bearing Kit - Chain Drive #417-450 #758-994 (07-UP)
- Gear Drive #417-455
07-UP – Inner Bearing Kit – Chain & Gear Drive #417-460
6.) 99-06 Spring Release Tool #758-283
7.) 99-06 Zipper’s TC Cam Relief Tool #713-905 (Single)
7.) Precision Ground Oil Pressure Relief Valve #626-010 #713-906 (Dual)
8.) 07-UP – Gear Drive Cams Only – Block-off Plates #672-816
Teardown Procedure:
1.) Read the factory Service Manual’s Cam Compartment Service procedure; and the associated section on Stripping the
Motorcycle for Service.
2.) Following the factory Service Manual’s procedure, remove all components from the motorcycle that will interfere with the
rocker box and cam chest disassembly. This includes the fuel tank, exhaust system, and the floorboard, for example.
3.) Remove the entire Rocker Arm / Stand Assemblies, and set them aside for further inspection.
4.) Remove the Cam Support Plate subassembly & associated parts, including the oil pump.
5.) Disassemble the Cam Support Plate subassembly; removing the camshafts, tensioners, and oil pump from the support plate. On
’99-’06 engines, you will need a special tool to release the spring pressure on the cam chain tensioners. Be sure to install the
retaining lock pins if you are reusing the spring style cam chain tensioners on ’99-’06 engines.
Document V.20130226
Inspection Guide:
1.) Crankshaft Run-out – The first thing to check is the run out of the crankshaft pinion shaft. Gear Drive cams cannot be used
with more than 0.003” of run out on the pinion shaft. If the crankshaft run-out is deemed excessive, further disassembly and
repairs will be required. It is highly recommended that anytime the camshaft cover is removed, crankshaft run-out is checked.
2.) Oil Pump - Disassemble the oil pump, and draw a line across the inner / outer gerotors with a permanent marker, so they can
be reinstalled exactly as they were removed. Inspect the gerotors and pump body for damage due to foreign material being
pumped through the system. Follow the factory Service Manual for gerotor tip clearances and the overall stack height tolerance.
Replace or repair as needed. If excessive material has gone through the scavenge side of your pump, the oil tank and oil lines
must be cleaned out now as well. Certain models will require the oil pan to be removed for cleaning, while other models require
the entire oil tank to be flushed out with kerosene.
3.) Cam Chain Tensioners - While apart, it’s a good time to evaluate the operation of your cam chain tensioners. Look for uneven
wear patterns in the shoe especially. Replace or repair as needed. Red Shift Dual Piston Cam Chain Tensioners are highly
recommended on ‘07-Up engines.
4.) Cam Chains - Check the outside of both the inner and outer cam chains for any burrs or inconsistencies. Some wear may be
present, but any physical damage to the chain will transfer directly into replacement cam chain tensioners.
5.) Cam Support Plate – Oil Pressure Relief Valve - We strongly recommend
using the Fueling Cam Support Plate Pressure Tool to check the cam support
plate for leaks at the Oil Pressure Relief Valve. This is an extremely critical step
that is completely bypassed in the standard circle of service technician
training. Our testing of hundreds of O.E. cam support plates have resulted in the
discovery of a complete failure of the proper operation of the bypass valve on a
large percentage of cam support plates.
This Oil Pressure Relief bypass valve has been found in many cases to be
leaking 50% or more pressure at idle. These leaks cause a dramatic reduction in
the amount of lubrication on all of the key parts of the engine, especially high
contact pressure valve train parts. Another key issue is in maintaining oil
pressure when the engine is at its lowest rpm, which is hot idle. A precision
ground Oil Pressure Relief Valve may be required to properly seal this bypass
valve. Any losses at this point will systematically reduce oil pressure to the entire
engine, specifically shortening the normal lifespan of the high pressure
components in the valve train and other key areas of the engine. Call your
Zipper’s Sale Rep for more information on this issue and the various solutions
available for you.
6.) Take-Out Camshafts - Although these are the key items being replaced, it’s the right time to take a moment to inspect the
wear on the lobes and bearing journals. Finding issues on the parts that are being removed will aide you in setting up your new
Red Shift Cams for a long reliable lifespan.
7.) Lifters - Inspect the lifters’ roller surfaces, the bearing condition, and the outer diameter of the lifter bodies. We recommend
that higher quality lifters be installed when upgrading your camshafts, but studying the condition of the take-out parts will help
you identify previous oiling and control issues. The latest factory lifters referred to as “-99C” should be removed regardless of
mileage, and replaced with a higher quality aftermarket replacement. The newest lifters do not appear to be made to the same
quality standards as the earlier lifters.
8.) Pushrods - Check the pushrods for unusual wear on the tips, blockage through the body, and any rubbing or interference
marks from hitting the pushrods tubes. You may be reusing these non-adjustable pushrods, if you’ve purchased a Red Shift Cam
that was designed for use with these pushrods. In many cases these will be replaced with a high quality adjustable pushrod.
Many options are available; please call your Zipper’s Sales rep for a rundown on available pushrods for your application.
9.) Rocker Arm Assemblies - Checking the Rocker Arm Assemblies is commonly overlooked during a cam installation. The rocker
arms are inexpensive to replace, and typically one of the first items to show accelerated wear when operating in a low oil
pressure environment. Do a complete inspection on the rocker arms & assemblies before performing repair work to any of the
parts. You may find that it’s cheaper to purchase a new factory rocker arm than repairing multiple issues. If both bushings need
replacement, the repair cost will be near the replacement cost. A worksheet is provided at the end of this section to aide in the
inspection process.
Check for clearance between the spring
clearance AFTER assembly.
a. Rocker Arm Pushrod Cups - Visually inspect each rocker arm pushrod cup for a proper 360
only see a wear pattern that’s 2/3 of a circle, you’ll need to either replace, or lap the pushrod cup until a full circular sealing
ring is present. All oil to the top end travels through the pushrod and into the rocker arm at this point, so a leak here will
diminish the oil pressure to the top end.
b. Rocker Arm Valve Tip Pads - Look for damage on both the rocker arm Valve Tip Pad, and then the associated valve tip itself.
With the right tools, it is possible to resurface the tip, if the damage is minimal. Repair or replace as necessary for your
situation.
c. Rocker Arm Endplay - Follow the factory Service Manual’s procedure and tolerances. Repair or replace as necessary.
d. Rocker Arm Shaft Diameter - Follow the factory Service Manual’s procedure and tolerances. Repair or replace as necessary.
e. Rocker Arm Bushing Clearance - The pushrod side bushing takes a beating if not properly lubricated. Follow the factory
service manual for the proper inspection procedure, and use the factory tolerances as your guideline. Repair or replace as
necessary.
f. Rocker Stand Clearance - Follow the factory Service Manual’s procedure and tolerances. Repair or replace as necessary.
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pushrod tip sealing ring. If you
10.) Rocker Box to Valve Spring Clearance – If using late model
96 / 103 style heads with factory-equipped beehive springs;
rocker box clearance will not be a problem. Any dual or triple
spring pack must be checked, as they commonly hit the lower
rocker box, and potentially the top lid. If an aftermarket rocker
box is being used, always check for spring clearance, including
the top lid. A minimum of 0.060” clearance must be present
around the top of the spring pack.
To ensure proper alignment of the lower rocker box
when checking for clearance, use 2-3 tapered (alignment)
screws to hold the lower box in place. Using a standard zip-tie,
make a 2” loop, and make sure it fits around the top spring
collar. If the zip-tie doesn’t fit between the spring pack and the
rocker box, then remove the rocker box and cut material away
until it fits.
retainer and the lower frame boss above
intake and exhaust springs. Clearance as
needed. Verify you have at least .060”