COPING SLED
Assembly and Use
Instructions.
Assembly
Made in USA.
STEP 1. Installing the Fence.
(5) 5⁄8" Flat head screws. (5) Oval nuts.
(2) Registration pins.
STEP 2. Installing the Top Plate Screws.
(2) 11⁄2" Flat head screws. (2) Thick, gold,
washers.
(2) Nuts with
star washer.
Insert two screws up through the bottom of the base. Slip on
one of the thick washers and thread on a nut. The star washer side of the nut needs to face the thick gold washer. Firmly
tighten each screw.
STEP 3. Installing the Spacer Tubes.
(1) 16" Fence.
Insert the screws up through the bottom of the base and
loosely start the oval nuts. Slide on the fence with the single
track side facing down.
Insert the two registration
pins behind the fence.
Align the fence flush with
the right edge of the base
and pull it back against the
pins. Firmly tighten the five
screws and Remove the
pins.
(5) Oval nuts. (4) Spacers tubes.(4) 21⁄2" Flat head screws.
Loosely assemble each 21⁄2" screw, spacer tube and oval nut
into each of the four holes as shown. The screws are inserted
from the bottom. Do not tighten. Leave an approximate 1⁄8" gap
between the top of the tube and the bottom of the oval nut.
STEP 4. Installing the Top Plate.
(2) Star knobs. (2) Large steel washers. (2) Large nylon washers.
STEP 6. Installing the Clamp Beam.
(1) Top Plate.
Position the top plate so the two spacer tubes and two screws
stick up through the slots. Notice that the top plate can only
be installed one way. Rotate it 180º if it won't drop on.
Once the top plate is in place, slip one large nylon washer and
then one large steel washer over each screw. Finally, install a
star knob on each screw.
STEP 5. Installing the Top Track.
(1) Clamp beam assy. (2) Handle knobs. (2) 1¼" Hex bolts.
First install one 11⁄4" hex bolt into the outside slot of each top
track. Then set the clamp beam in place so the bolts stick up
through the two holes.
Tighten the clamp beam in place with the two handle knobs.
Generally the clamp beam will be positioned over the center
of the work piece. For now, position it approximately 2" in
front of the fence.
STEP 7. Installing the Guide.
(2) 12" Top Tracks.
Each piece of top track gets attached with two screws. With
the single T-slot facing down, line up the oval nuts extending
up from the spacer tubes to slip into the T-slot. Slide the track
forward until both oval nuts are captured in the slot and the
back end is flush with the back edge of the base. Tighten both
screws from underneath and repeat the same procedure for
the second track.
(2) Star knobs. (2) 1" Hex bolts. (2) Nylon washers. (1) Guide.
Slip one 1" hex bolt into each end of the top track as shown.
The bolts need to be in the outside most T-slot. Set the guide
in place so that these two bolts protrude up through the slots.
Place one nylon washer onto each hex bolt and loosely install
the two star knobs.Position the guide so that the front and rear
edge are approximately aligned with the ends of the top track
and then tighten the knobs.
Using the Coping Sled
Star Knob
Star Knob
Guide
Router Fence
¾" Spacer
Base
Adjusting the Guide.
Setting the guide only takes a minute, but is vital for proper
operation. First loosen the two star knobs which secure the
guide to the top track.
Next insert a ¾" scrap wood spacer between the base and
the router fence. The spacer may need to be thicker if the
router bit would otherwise contact the base.
Star Knob
Star Knob
Guide
¾" Spacer
Router Fence
While holding the sled up against the spacer and the fence,
position the guide up against the fence as well and tighten the
two star knobs.
The guide should be the only part of the coping sled that runs
against the fence during use. It needs to be adjusted to keep
the base from contacting the router bit. At no time should the
base come in contact with the fence or the router bit. For larger
cutters, it may be necessary to use a wider spacer.
Installing Your Work Piece.
The coping sled is designed to provide the support and control
necessary to rout across the end grain of a board. This is a
necessary procedure for making raised panel doors as well as
tenon cuts. In most cases, the board will be less than 5" wide.
With this small amount of surface area, it would be nearly impossible to guide the end along the router fence to safely make
a profile cut without a sled.
The majority of force exerted on the board is torque. In other
words as the router bit is spinning in one direction, it is trying to
spin your board the opposite direction. Controlling this torque
is the function of the fence and top plate.
Using the top plate is simple, insert your board between the
sled fence and the top plate. Slide the top plate back against
the board and tighten the two knobs.
Now hold the guide against the router fence and slide the
board in until it bottoms out against it. And finally, position the
clamp beam over the center of the board and tighten both hold
down clamps.
These should only be moderately tight. Excessive force is not
needed and could lead to warping of the base plate.
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