Woodhaven 8585 User Manual

8585 T-Strike

Plate Jig

Please Read Carefully!

Parts List:

Part Description Quantity

8585 2-3/4" T-Strike Plate Jig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

STP001 #8 x 3/4" Screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

WB001 3/16" Washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

BUSH002 1/4" Spacers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

5503 1/2" Thumb Screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

ASSEMBLY

Identify and verify that you have all the parts listed. Read the instructions at least once before beginning.

Cut a wood fence approximately 3/4" thick, 1-1/4" wide and approximately 12" long. Drill two 1/8" pilot holes in the edge of the wood fence 4-5/8" on center. Mount the Strike Plate Jig to the wood fence using the 3/16" Washers (WB001) and 3/4" Screws (STP001). See fig. 1. Place the 1/4" Spacers (BUSH002) on the 1/2" Thumb Screws (5503) and screw them in to the two holes of the Strike Plate Jig shown. The remaining two holes in the Strike Plate Jig are for storing the thumb screws & spacers when not needed. See fig. 2.

Cut a 1/4" thick x 6" long spacer to the width required to position the strike plate in the desired jamb location. Place it between the spacers and the wood fence to position the strike plate opening at the proper distance from the edge of the jamb. The spacer also insures that the wood fence is square and parallel on the Strike Plate Jig. See fig. 2.

Attach spacers here

USING THE JIG ON A JAMB WITHOUT A STOP

Mark the strike plate location on the jamb. The Strike Plate Jig is 1/8" wider (1/16" on each side) then the actual strike plate opening it cuts. Position the Strike Plate Jig so it's edges are 1/16" from the strike plate location marks, or make the strike plate marks 1/8" further apart to correspond to the actual opening in the Strike Plate Jig. Clamp the Strike Plate Jig to the jamb using the wood fence and two clamps. See fig. 1.

Install our 8500 Hinge Bit (1/2" diameter with a 5/8" bearing), or a 1/2" bit (13416) and 5/8" bushing (5030K), in your router. If using the 8500 Hinge Bit, make sure the bearing rides firmly on the edge of the jig before attempting any cuts. Since the cutting depth for locks is shallow (usually 1/8" or less), either a standard or plunge router will work. Set the cutting depth of the bit, taking into account the thickness of the jig.

Plunge or tilt the router bit into the approximate center of the jig opening, moving in a small clockwise circle as you do so to cut a relief opening. With the router base riding firmly on the jig, move towards an edge of the jig opening. Moving clockwise, follow the jig until the outline has been cut. Make clean up passes to remove any remaining material. After making the first cut, the wood fence will have a cut out area that corresponds to the strike plate size. You can use this cut out area to position the jig on the next parts.

USING THE JIG ON A JAMB WITH A STOP

If you are cutting a strike plate in a jamb with a door stop and casing in place, you'll need a longer bit (PN 8505 Hinge Bit, 3/4" cut length). You'll also need a wood fence that will position the Hinge Jig at least 1/2" above the jamb and straddle the casing. If your door stops are 1/2" thick, part of the Strike Plate Jig will be supported on top of the door stop. If the door stop is thinner than 1/2" you'll need to shim between the Strike Plate Jig and jamb so it's at least 1/2" above the jamb. This can be accomplished by using double stick tape to attach 1/2" thick shims to the underside of the Strike Plate Jig. The 8505 Hinge Bit will work on doors with stops up to 3/4" thick. See fig. 3.

Install our the 8505 Hinge Bit (1/2" diameter with a 5/8" bearing), or a 1/2" bit and 5/8" bushing, in your router. If using the 8505 Hinge Bit, make sure the bearing rides firmly on the edge of the jig before attempting any cuts. Since the cutting depth for hinges is shallow (usually 1/8" or less), either a standard or plunge router will work. Set the cutting depth of the bit, taking into account the thickness of the jig. Plunge or tilt the router bit into the approximate center of the jig, moving in a small clockwise circle as you do so to cut a relief opening. With the router base riding firmly on the jig, move towards an edge of the jig. When you get to an edge, move clockwise, following the edge of the jig until the outline has been cut. Make clean up passes to remove any remaining material. After making the first cut, the wood fence will have a cut out area that corresponds to the strike plate size. You can use this cut out area to position the jig on the next parts.

ACCESSORIES

Self-Centering drill bits (PN 6505 - 5/64", 6507 - 7/64" or 6509 - 9/64") are available to insure

perfectly centered pilot holes for your strike plate. A Corner Chisel (PN 8508) is available to square the radiused corners left by the 1/2" router bit.

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