White brothers cycling WBDH3 User Manual

OWNERS MANUAL FOR

DH<3

DOWNHILL

WHITE BROTHERS CYCLING

A DIVISION OF EKO SPORT, INC.

580 NORTH WESTGATE DR.

GRAND JUNCTION, CO 81505

WWW.WHITEBROTHERSCYCLING.COM

Owners Name: ___________________________________________________________________________
Address: _________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
Phone: ___________________________________________________________________________________
Purchase Date: ___________________________________________________________________________
Purchase Location: _______________________________________________________________________
Serial # __________________________________________________________________________________
(Located on the backside of the right axle clamp)

SAFETY

1.) NEVER REMOVE STEER TUBE FROM CROWN. THIS
IS A PRESSED IN PART, REMOVING IT WILL RENDER
BOTH CROWN AND STEERER INOPERABLE*. MAKE
SURE YOUR FORK CAPS AND ALL FORK HARDWARE
(brake studs, pinch bolts, etc.) ARE TIGHT.

2.) DO NOT PERFORM ANY MODIFICATIONS OR
ADJUSTMENTS THAT ARE NOT OUTLINED IN THIS
MANUAL. SEE THE TUNING SECTION OF THE
MANUAL FOR MORE DETAILS.

3.) INSPECT YOUR FORK BEFORE EVERY RIDE.
INSPECT THE CROWN, TUBES AND AXLE SEAT
AREAS FOR ANY SIGNS OF FATIGUE, BENDING,
CRACKING OR OTHER DAMAGE. IF YOU NOTICE
ANY TYPE OF DAMAGE, DO NOT RIDE ON YOUR
FORK. RETURN IT TO YOUR DEALER FOR A
COMPLETE INSPECTION AND NECESSARY REPAIR
OR WARRANTY STEPS. PLEASE REFER TO THE
WARRANTY SECTION OF THIS MANUAL.

4.) PERFORM ALL RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE
ACCORDING TO THE MAINTENANCE SECTION OF
THIS MANUAL. FAILURE TO PERFORM
MAINTENANCE COULD DRASTICALLY REDUCE
YOUR FORK’S LIFE AND PERFORMANCE.

5.) WHITE BROTHERS RECOMMENDS THAT YOU
WEAR PROPER SAFETY EQUIPMENT EVERY TIME
YOU RIDE, INCLUDING AN APPROVED BICYCLE
HELMET. NEVER RIDE AT NIGHT WITHOUT LIGHTS!

* IF SERVICE BECOMES NECESSARY OR REMOVAL
OCCURS, PLEASE CALL WHITE BROTHERS
CUSTOMER SERVICE FOR PRODUCT EVALUATION
AND DIAGNOSIS.

APPLICATIONS

Thanks for purchasing your new White Brothers Fork. You
are in for the best ride of your life. Our forks are designed to
give you the level of performance you need to ride at your
absolute peak.

The White Brothers DH-3 fork features lightweight, dual
rate coil springs, air/oil separated damping system, externally
adjustable rebound damping, and piggyback design air
charged reservoir with compression damping external
adjuster. This technology is borrowed from motorcycling
and offers the best possible suspension action. Steering
accuracy is improved over conventional MTB forks by
utilizing dual billet aluminum steering crowns, oversized

31.75mm fork tubes, inverted stanchion/slider design and
large 20mm axle. Fork travel has been set at 7.28” (185mm)
to offer the best performance for downhill racing terrain. A
combination coil spring and high-cushion bottom bumper is
used to minimize hard bottoming.

Every possible effort has been made to make the White
Brothers Fork very light in weight and perform at a level
superior to other forks on the market. To ensure peak
performance, proper installation and periodic maintenance is
required. Please read this manual in its entirety to familiarize
yourself with the fork to insure your satisfaction with this
product.

White Brothers Forks are designed for offroad use only.
They are not equipped with proper reflectors for road use. If
you are going to use your fork on the road, have your dealer
or mechanic install reflectors that meet the Consumer
Product Safety Commission’s (C.P.S.C.) requirements for
bicycle standards. If you have any questions concerning
C.P.S.C. Standards, please talk to your dealer.
When using your fork on public land and trails, please
respect the rights of other users and stay on established paths
and trails. By mountain biking responsibly, you help to
ensure the future of our sport.

Copyright 2001, Eko Sport, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

WB recommends that installation and service should be carried out by
experienced shop mechanics or qualified service personnel.

All numbers in the detailed service procedures refer to the parts listed in
the exploded view.

Building the Wheel

The DH-3 fork is designed in 120mm hub width specification, this is to
allow the strongest possible spoke configuration. Even if you use
110mm specification hub the spoke angles are more even, resulting in a
stronger wheel. If you are using a 110mm hub, supply your wheel builder
with the 10mm spacer and inform them that they must use the spacer for
correct alignment.

Installing on a New Frame

1.) Install head set cups in frame per the manufacturers instructions.

2.) Remove the fork from the box, loosen the crown bolts and remove the

leg assemblies.

3.) Install the lower bearing race on the WB steerer tube pressing it down
until it firmly contacts the lower crown.

4.) Install the lower crown on the frame, then place the upper head set
assembly onto the steerer tube. Next install the upper crown onto the
steerer tube, push the top crown down firmly while holding the lower
crown up to ensure they are fully seated in position then tighten the center
clamp bolt slightly to temporarily hold everything in place. Note: it is

unlikely you will need to place spacers between the top head set bearing
and the upper crown. Your WB fork is designed for a compact fitment and

will allow the most geometry adjustment with the crowns closer together.

5.) If your head tube is too long (too deep) then the tire can contact the
crown, this is very dangerous. If your head tube is in excess of 5.5”
(140mm) then you should perform the following test to determine
whether you can mount the forks on your frame. Mount the leg
assemblies into the crowns and align the top of the outer tube flush with
the top of the top crown, this is the highest the forks can be set at. Next:
install the front wheel. Note: it isn’t necessary to mount the brake and
tighten the axle etc at this time. Please also note that your DH-3 fork has
up to 3/4” (19mm) negative travel so it’s necessary to pull up on the bike
while you hold the wheel down to achieve maximum travel. Now measure
the distance from the bottom of the lower crown to the highest knob on the
tire, you should have a distance of 7 7/16” (190mm). Iif not, you may
want to try changing to a smaller tire size. Iif you are already using a
small diameter tire your options are quite limited. Consult your local WB
service center or distributor for options or return the fork to the place you
purchased it from. If you have adequate clearance, you can continue

with the installation. Note, this is a good time to check how far you can
slide the forks up in the crowns to tune steering characteristics. Assuming
that you have a distance greater than 190mm you will have adjustment
possibilities. For example: When measuring the distance you read
200mm, this means you can adjust your fork up through the crowns
10mm. It’s a good idea to make a note of this dimension. If you change to

a different tire always recheck this dimension before riding.

Never ride the bicycle with less than 190mm of tire clearance the tire
could come in contact with the lower crown causing you to loose
control of the bicycle resulting in possible injury or death.

Installing handlebar mounting system and
Cutting steerer Tube

A) Using Moto Mounts Mark the steerer tube at the top of the crown

with a scribe or sharp instrument. Proceed to number 6.
B) Using Steering Stem Mount the stem per the manufacturers
instructions. You may wish to include stem spacers at this point, before
you cut the steerer stem. This will allow some vertical adjustment later.
Proceed to number 6.

6.) Remove the crowns from the frame.

7.) Mark or scribe a second line 1/8” (3mm) further down on the steerer

tube. Note, some head set caps have a larger shoulder and you may
need to remove slightly more tube or add a short steerer tube spacer for
the head set cap to clear.

8.) Next cut the steerer tube at the second mark (lower) and remove any
inside and outside burrs on the steerer tube, then clean away any filings
etc.

9.) Install the star nut in the steerer tube. Note, WB highly recommends
installing the star nut with the appropriate special tool, if the star nut is not
inserted correctly it can destroy the nut rendering it useless. You will then
need to drive it all the way through and out the bottom of the steerer tube
and obtain a new part and attempt the installation again.

10.) Lightly grease the bearing area and reinstall the lower crown in the
head tube.

11.) Install the upper head set assembly per the manufacturers

Installing the dual crowns

12.) Clean and de-grease the steer tube in the area where the upper

crown will clamp. Note: as a general rule clamping areas should be grease
free, any area that rotates should be greased. Sometimes, as in this case
items have rotating and clamping areas, careful preparation ensures the
design will function correctly.

13.) Mount the upper crown, and install the leg assemblies. Please see
“Steering Clearance” note below. Lightly clamp some of the crown bolts
then adjust the height of the leg assemblies. Note: WB recommends

adjusting your legs to the middle of the adjustment range that you
calculated earlier.

14.) Now that you have the crowns pre-assembled you need to adjust the
headset bearing per the manufacturers instructions. Torque the upper
crown bolts only to 8 ft Ib (11Nm). Next, adjust the head set center cap
bolt to adjust free play and/or tension on the headset. Then torque the
steerer tube clamp bolt to 8 ft Ib (11Nm) and finally torque the 6 lower
crown bolts to 8 ft Ib (11Nm). Note: all crown to leg assembly bolts should

be tightened in sequence (first one then the other and back again).

Steering Clearance

Because the WB DH-3 fork is a dual crown design, and there are no
industry standards for lock-to-lock stops, the fork tubes are likely to come
in contact with the bicycle frame with no protective stops mounted. To
eliminate the chance of damage to the fork or frame a cushion stop must
be fabricated to eliminate metal-to-metal contact. WB has seen many
innovative adaptations of twist shift grips, elastomer and automotive
exhaust mounting rings used. Normally sliding a rubber ring over the outer
legs and adjusting them to a position where they contact the frame first
when the steering is tuned is the most effective method.

Installing on a Used Frame

1.) Remove your old forks.

2.) If you plan to reuse the same headset, inspect the bearings, seals
and/or o-rings. WB recommends servicing the head set per the
manufacturers instructions before remounting the head set on the frame.
If you deem it necessary to replace the head set with the exact same
model then mark and cut your steerer tube as described in the previous
section. If you plan on changing the headset to a different type then
proceed with installing the fork as if it were a new frame and please ignore
the following instruction.

3.) If you are mounting the fork with the same steerer stem parts you can
use the old steerer tube as a length gauge to cut the new one. You must
add 0.63” (16mm) to the length of the old tube. It’s very important that the
steerer tube is cut straight and even to ensure maximum clamping in the
crown area.

4.) Continue installation as if it were a new fork starting at section 8.

These instructions cover installation of the WB fork using a cassette type
head set bearing assembly. WB urges you to read the head set
manufacturers instructions in case your bearing assembly is not installed
in this manner.

Mounting the wheel and front brake

The 20mm axle system is designed to provide maximum rigidity; the 3-bolt
clamp and axle thread system utilizes the center spacer in the hub as an
extra torque stiffener. The method on installing the wheel is as follows.

1.) Slide the axle an inch or so into the RH axle clamp. Iif you are using a
110mm spec hub then place the 10mm axle spacer over the axle so the
spacer is just flush with the axle clamp, if you are using a 120mm spec
hub, the spacer is not required. You should now have the axle engaged in
the axle clamp and hanging out the right side of the fork.

2.) Pick up the wheel, hold it up to the axle and slide the axle into the hub
through the RH wheel spacer and out through the LH spacer slightly.

3.) Start the axle in the left hand axle clamp. At this point it’s necessary to
compress the RH leg slightly to make it the same length as the LH side,
once it is the same level the axle should slide through easily with a little
juggling around. Note, it should not be necessary to force the axle in place.

It sometimes helps to rotate the axle with a 11/16” (17mm) wrench as you
push it through the wheel and into the axle clamp.

4.) Once the axle is in place in both axle clamps, tighten the axle, then
tighten the clamp bolt on the left side only.

5.) Next you need to align the RH leg assembly, Hold the RH axle clamp
in your left hand and slide it back and forward on the axle, you will feel the
resistance is greater at the extremes (in and out). Reduce the amount
you are sliding the clamp until it is in the middle of the extremes. You
should now be able to move it freely and feel the fork leg centering in a
relaxed position. Once you have the fork leg assemblies aligned tighten
the RH clamp bolts.

6.) If you are mounting the brake caliper for the first time, please refer to
the brake manufacturers specifications and installation instructions. All
the major brake manufacturers have disc brakes that mount onto the WB
upside down forks with no fork modifications necessary. Note: The DH-2

and DH-3 models use the original industry specification for 20mm axle
mounting. Most brake systems are a direct fit however Hayes and
Formula both require adapter brackets. Consult the manufacturer for
caliper identification and for the correct adapter if you are having fitment
problems.

7.) After mounting the brakes per the manufacturers instructions, remove
the bike from the work stand and stroke the suspension up and down to
check that the brake hose doesn’t foul the tire and/or wheel. If it does, you
must reposition the hose route so there is no chance of contact. WB
recommends that you use the WB Cable/Hose Guide Part#97-899 to
allow for proper routing and clearance. Never ride the bicycle with a

possibility of the brake hose coming in contact with the wheel; it
could cause you to loose control of the bicycle resulting in possible
injury or death.

As with all service and maintenance operations, always wear safety
glasses and protect your clothing from oil contamination.

Tuning

To get the most from your White Brothers fork, it is important that you

tune the forks to fit your style of riding and the conditions you ride in.

Initial break-in period

Your new fork is designed to break-in over a period of 10 hours or more of
riding. As all of the parts bed into each other, the stiction (friction) of the
forks will reduce and the forks will absorb the bumps better. After this
initial break-in, fine tuning the spring preload and hydraulic damper may
be beneficial to achieve the best possible fork performance for your
weight and riding style.

Tuning Your Rebound Damping

Adjusting the rebound damping should only be done after you are
completely happy with your spring choice, and the proper spring preload
has been set.
Your White Brothers DH-3 fork comes with the rebound damping adjusted
in the middle of its range. The standard setting is 3 turns out from all the
way in (clockwise). Use the following guidelines to determine if further
adjustment is needed.
A) If your forks rebound too slowly, turn the adjustment screw on the top of
the right fork leg one turn counter-clockwise (6 turns out is the
maximum)(figure 3). The forks should absorb and return fast enough to
absorb the next major obstacle. A sign that your forks are rebounding too
slowly is if they feel like they pack-up or continue to compress as you go
through rough sections.
B) If your forks are rebounding too fast, turn the adjustment screw on the
top of the right fork leg clockwise 1/2 turn at a time. A sign of too fast
rebound is if the forks deflect and the bicycle is hard to hold in lines. The
front wheel will also bounce and appear “busy” ie. you get an additional
bounce after landing from a drop. NOTE: If a stiffer spring is installed,

your standard setting should be 1 turn stiffer (clockwise). A light rider that
has installed a softer spring will usually be most satisfied with the damping
set at a lighter setting (4 to 6 turns out).

Tuning Your Compression Damping

Your White Brothers DH-3 fork comes with the compression damping
adjusted in the middle of its range. The standard setting is 2 turns out from
all the way in (clockwise). Use the following guidelines to determine if
further adjustment is needed.
A) If your forks ride far into the travel and/or feel soft in certain situations,
turn the adjustment screw located on the side of the piggyback reservoir
located on the right lower fork leg one turn clockwise (All the way in
clockwise is the maximum)(figure 4). The forks should feel plush but
should not stroke rapidly through the travel and bottom hard. If you have
to adjust the compression adjuster all the way in to stop bottoming, you
may consider substituting a stiffer fork spring.
B) If your forks feel stiff and do not absorb small bumps and terrain
irregularities well, turn the adjustment screw counter-clockwise (4 Turns
out is the maximum). The forks should feel plush and suck up the small
bumps well. If you have adjusted the compression adjuster to the full soft
position and the forks still feel stiff, consider substituting a softer fork
spring and/or servicing your fork if stiction is present.
C) Tuning air pressure. The fork is set a 50 psi. The minimum air pressure
is 40 psi. At this setting, the fork is very plush. To get a stiffer feel, as well
as faster rebound, add pressure up to a maximum of 120 psi. If rebound is
too fast, turn damper adjuster clockwise

Tuning Your Springs

There are various ways to adjust your forks. The first is by changing the
spring for a completely different rate. The spring basically controls the
quality of the ride. A stiff spring handles major obstacles and dropoffs
better, but doesn’t give as smooth of ride over braking bumps and other
small obstacles. Your White Brothers Fork comes with a medium rate
spring installed. For the majority of riders, this should give a compliant
ride, yet remain resistant to bottoming. If forks are too stiff or too soft with
the medium spring supplied, WB offers an optional soft (pn 97-3518) and
heavy (pn 97-3508) spring. Contact your WB dealer to order these.
A fine tuning adjustment for you fork is spring preload. As delivered, the
spring preload is correct for most riders. Spring preload is the amount of
pressure that the spring has against it at the full extended position
(spacers are used to adjust spring preload, see items #3 on the exploded
view page 8). With the correct preload on the spring, with no load on the
bike, the forks should come within 3/4” to 1” of returning to full extension
after being compressed. Too much sag, add (1) 3mm spacer. Too little
sag, remove (1) 3mm spacer. Note if your fork has an excess of stiction,

complete basic service first before preload adjustment.

Figure 3

Figure 4

Trouble Shooting

Problem: The fork has “stiction” (moves up

and down in jerky movements).
See Tuning section for break-in
notes

Cause: This is normally caused by lack of

lubrication or dirt in the seals and/or
bearings, or forks are not sufficiently
broken in

Solution: Clean and lubricate the fork as

described in the maintenance section

Problem: The fork settles too far into its travel
Cause: This is normally caused by a lack of

spring preload

Solution: Increase the spring preload

Please Note, although every effort has been made to reduce the need
for special tools etc. and general cleaning and lube service
operations are quite easy, full rebuilding and repair off the DH-3 fork
is definitely for an experienced mechanic or service technician.
Special Tools are required and include, but are not limited to, air
compressor, arbor press, cleaning and measuring equipment,
wrenches etc.

As with all service and maintenance operations always wear safety
glasses and protect your clothing from oil contamination.

Removal of the leg assemblies

1.) Remove the wheel and disconnect the brake from the left hand axle

clamp.

2.) Before removing the leg assemblies from the crowns you can utilize the
lower crown as a holding devise to slacken the top caps. Undo the 4 x M6
upper clamp bolts and slacken the top caps counterclockwise using a
25mm (1”) wrench or socket, at this point 1/4 turn is sufficient.

3.) Slacken the lower clamp bolts and remove the legs from the crowns.

Problem: The fork returns to it’s full height too

Cause: Too much spring preload or (or the hydraulic

Solution: Reduce the spring preload or (service

Problem: The fork bottoms too easily
Cause: Incorrect spring choice and/or compression

Solution: Install stiffer option spring and/or re-adjust

Problem: The fork doesn’t use its full travel
Cause: Incorrect spring choice and/or re-adjust

Solution: Install softer option spring and/or re-adjust

Problem: The fork bounces up and down rapidly
Cause: Insufficient rebound damping
Solution: Increase damping by adjusting clockwise 1/4

Problem: The fork has heavy feel, doesn’t return quick

Cause: Too much rebound damping
Solution: Decrease damping by adjusting

aggressively, feels like an air fork or “tops
out”

damper needs service)

hydraulic damper)

damping is too soft

compression damper setting

compression damper setting

damper setting

turn at a time (or the hydraulic damper
needs service)

enough for consecutive bumps

counter clockwise 1/4 turn at a time

Maintenance

Your White Brothers Fork requires periodic maintenance to ensure peak
performance and long life. Moisture and contamination may build up
inside the fork. We suggest you disassemble your forks, inspect, clean
and re-grease them after 30 hours of use. If the forks appear to be
relatively clean, you can probably go 40 hours between servicing. If the
forks appear dirty, you should service them every 20 hours. The three
things that will most effect the service interval and performance of your
forks are water, mud and dust? How much time you use your forks in
those conditions will determine how much service they require.

NOTE: When cleaning the fork, it is not recommended to direct water
spray at the seals.
NOTE: Neglecting proper fork maintenance will reduce the fork’’s life.
Internal build up of water and dirt, or a lack of lubrication will cause
excessive wear to the forks. In harsh condition it is advisable to inspect
the forks for dirt ingestion after each ride.

Basic service should include disassembly of the forks, cleaning and re­greasing all shafts and seals. At this time, the forks should be carefully
inspected for wear and damage before reassembly. NOTE: Disassembly

of the hydraulic damper should be left for a dealer who is familiar with
servicing the WB hydraulic damper and has the special tools that are
required.

REQUIRED TOOLS

DESCRIPTION PART #

1. SHAFT SEAL BULLET

2. 10mm CLAMP BLOCKS FT180-4

3. 1 1/4" TUBE WRENCH FTDH3-1

FT180-3

2.

1.

3.

Disassembly of the spring leg assembly (LH)

4.) Unscrew the top cap from the outer leg.

5.) Place the axle clamp into a vise with soft jaws or some type of

protection that will not harm the finish.

6.) Lower the outer tube so the wiper seal comes down in contact with the
axle clamp.

7.) Pull down on the small spring to expose the 9/16” (15mm) jam nut. Hold
the nut and unscrew the top cap counterclockwise from the shaft.

8.) Remove the small spring, jam nut, double sided spacer and main
spring from the shaft.

9.) Remove the leg assembly from the vise and invert it over a drain pan, to
tip out the excess oil. Pull the inner leg out of the outer leg. Note: more oil
will drain at this time.

10.) Return the lower leg into the vise, and then undo the spring guide
counterclockwise with a 19mm (3/4”) wrench.

11.) Clean and inspect all the parts. Pay special attention to the following
parts; bearings and seals in the outer leg, surface condition of the inner
leg, rebound bumper. All these should be in good condition or be replaced.
It is advisable to replace the seals each time the fork is serviced.

12.) Normally, it’s unnecessary to remove the anti bottoming system from
the inner leg, but it is a good idea to shine a flash light down inside to
visually inspect the compression bumper. If that looks OK, you can
precede to rebuilding the leg assembly. If it looks damaged invert the leg
and tap it on a soft block of wood or plastic to remove it. Note be careful

with the threads as it is very easy to damage the inner leg.

Disassembly of the damper side leg assembly (RH)

1.) Unscrew the top cap from the outer leg.

2.) Carefully clamp the shaft in the vise using the clamp block. Note, you

can easily damage the shaft by scratching or bending it, when you clamp,
make sure the outer leg isn’t touching the bench below the vise.

3.) Unscrew the top cap counterclockwise from the shaft. Note, there is a
small spacer on all models that sometimes stays in the cap, but can fall
out.

4.) Remove outer leg.

5.) Place the axle clamp into a vise with soft jaws or some type of

protection that will not harm the finish.

6.) Remove the Dust cap and depress the Schrader valve to depressurize
the system.

7.) Unscrew the seal head counterclockwise with a pinwrench, or similar
tool.

8.) Remove the seal head and damper shaft as one assembly.

9.) Unscrew the pressure cap counterclockwise and set it aside.

10.) Remove the leg and axle clamp from the vise and invert it over the

drain pan to release the damper fluid. While the leg is in this position push
the piston upwards with a blunt tool such as a socket extension to drain
any remaining oil out of the reservoir.

11.) Use a 1/16 pin punch to remove pin that retains the compression
screw. Remove the compression screw.

12.) Install in a vise with soft jaws. Reinstall seal head with shaft into the
inner leg. Using a blowgun through the compression adjuster hole will
remove the floating piston through the top of the cannister. Cover the top
with your hand to prevent shooting the piston out. Remove the shaft
assembly.

13.) Remove the shaft assembly.

14.) If there are no signs of leakage on the compression adjuster screw, it

does not need to be removed. If there are signs of leakage, to remove the
screw, you must first drive out the spring pin using a good quality 1/6” pin
punch.

Damper instalation

1) Replace the compression screw o-ring. When installing the screw, turn

counter clockwise until it clicks and then turn clockwise. Install to 4 turns
out from bottom.

2) Fill canister with 3.5wt fork oil. Repeat filling canister until the oil level is
at the top.

3) Replace the floating piston o-ring. Grease piston and o-ring with
suspension lube. Install piston with the hollow cavity facing up. Push the
piston to the bottom of the canister.

4) Fill the le to the top with fork oil.

5) Remove the seal head and shaft from damper rod.

6) Replace the shaft seal in the seal head and the o-ring. Grease the seal

where the shaft will run.

7) Replace the needle o-ring. Set aside.

8) Install the damper shaft with the seal head into the leg. Push down until

the piston band is just under the oil and stop. With your other hand push
the seal head onto the piston and insert into the oil. The seal head and
piston need to go into the oil as one unit. The seal head has a small
breather hole in it. Cover it with your hand so oil does not squirt on you.

9) Tighten the seal head with a pin spanner.

10) Install the needle. Turn in until the o-ring is in the shaft.

11) Remove the brass compression screw. Cover the hole with a rag.

Push floating piston down with a socket until it is 1 3/4” from top of the
canister to the top ledge of the piston.

12) Reinstall the compression screw to 3 turns out from bottom.

13) Install the air cap in the canister. Fill to 80psi.

14) Install the keeper pin for the compression screw.

15) Install outer leg after lubricating the bushing with suspension grease.

Do not pour oil into the leg!

16) Install cap with the pacer in it. Use a axle vise to hold shaft. Turn
rebound in so it does not bind in cap while installing.

17) Install cap in the leg. Push down on the fork to check for any “dead”
spots from air pockets. If there is an air pocket you will have to do the
process over. To check compression, screw the adjuster in to the bottom.
The leg should “lock-out.” Back screw out to 1 ½ turns out.

Rebuilding the outer legs

1.) Thoroughly clean all the parts in a mild solvent.

2.) Check the condition of the wiper seal and the internal oil seal for

cracks, abrasion and/or obvious signs of wear. Note: replacing the wiper
seals is always recommended, it helps to keep dirt out especially when
riding in harsh conditions.

3.) If you decide to replace the seals, they can be removed with a spoon
style tire iron or something similar and can be reinstalled using a large
socket as a driver to install them squarely into position. Note: jamming the

seals in at an angle can crush the steel case and the seal will no longer
seal correctly and/or not stay in place.

4.) Bearings are replaceable but a number of special tools are required.
WB recommends that this task be carried out by a WB Authorized Service
Center or qualified mechanic.

Rebuilding the spring leg subassembly (LH)

5.) Thoroughly clean all the parts in a mild solvent.

6.) Check the condition of the rebound bumper and replace if necessary.

7.) Rebuild the dummy shaft in the following order: 2 thin small spacers

then the rebound bumper and another thin spacer then the rebound
bumper spacer, finally, the rebound spring attached to the spring guide.

8.) Screw the spring guide and dummy shaft assembly into the inner leg
and set it aside.

Rebuilding the damper shaft subassembly

9.) Thoroughly clean all the parts in a mild solvent.

10.) Inspect for obvious signs of damage. If any of the parts that have

seals running on them show signs of damage they should be replaced.
The main shaft seal is very durable and is likely to last for one average
racing season , so it would normally not need to be replaced. Always
replace the shaft sealing o-ring and the needle o-ring. The floating piston
o-ring is the highest wear internal part in the fork and should always be
replaced.

11.) Inspect the rebound shim, it should seat down flat against the piston, if
not replace it.

12.) Inspect the check valve, it should slide smoothly up and down on it’s
guide, if not it may be possible to improve the action by sanding the guide
slightly with a very fine wet/dry paper (1000 grit or finer).

13.) If you have 100 hours plus of riding time on the fork you may want to
consider replacing the main shaft seal while you have the fork apart. Do
not attempt to replace the seal from the top by pushing it past the threads
as this damages the seal. Instead, clamp the damper shaft in a vise using
the 10mm shaft blocks and remove the piston bolt Note: keep the shim

stack in the same order and the piston has compression and rebound
sides, be careful to make a mental note of the order the parts are in.

14.) Remove the seal head complete with the seal. Place the seal head
upright on a work surface and push the seal down though with a suitable
tool.

15.) Clean the seal head with a mild solvent and air-dry if possible. Install
the new seal dry, with the sealing lips pointing away from the pin spanner
holes. Press the seal all the way in so it is past the small bleed hole. Then
set the seal head to one side. Note: a suitably size deep socket works well

for this job. Make sure you press the seal in square or leakage may occur.

16.) Next, check the shaft condition including the internal thread for the
needle. It should be free of damage.

17.) Replacing the seal without the 10mm seal bullet is a tricky operation
and not recommended, Place the seal bullet in the end of the shaft, lightly
grease the seal and gently rock the seal head down over the shaft.

18.) When you replace the piston bolt, lock it in place with thread lock and
torque it to 85 in Ib (9.6 Nm) Note, only use a small amount of thread lock
as excess can harden and disrupt the flow of oil.

19.) After reinstalling the piston on the shaft, check fit the piston ring in the
inner leg for smooth action. Install the piston ring on the piston, lightly
grease and insert into the leg. Stroke the shaft up and down and if
everything is OK. You may feel a slight resistance but it should move
freely and smoothly.

20.) Replace the needle o-ring, lightly grease and test the fit by screwing it
into the shaft. Note: the o-ring should enter the shaft smoothly.

Rebuilding the axle clamp subassembly

21.) Inspect the axle clamp for any damage that may hinder the rebuilding

process. Damage may occur from extreme use, poor maintenance and/or
from crashing. Any parts that show signs of cracking, thread damage
and/or distortion should be viewed as dangerous and should be replaced.
If you are in any doubt about the safety of the parts, please return them to
an authorized service center for inspection.

22.) A special tool has been made to assist the removal of the reservoir.
The tool will in most cases remove the tube, however this tool is designed
to provide a limited amount of grip, so it gives some protection to the tube.
The tube is also installed with thread lock and may need a little heat to
remove it. This is definitely a task for the more experienced technician and
WB recommends returning the unit to a service center for inspection and
rebuild if you suspect it needs it.

23.) Inspect the condition of the threads for the compression adjuster,
damper stack bolt, reservoir tube and the axle clamping bolts. If they are
in good condition, replace the reservoir tube o-ring.

24.) Remove the o-ring from the floating piston and inspect the surface
condition. Test fit the piston in the reservoir tube, it should slide up and
down smoothly, if not replace it. Note: Always replace the floating piston o-

ring.

25.) Inspect the surface condition of the compression piston. The
surfaces that the shims sit on should be smooth and flat, if not the piston
should be replaced.

26.) Place the compression shim stack on the shim stack bolt and insert
into the compression piston. Check to see that the shims sit flat on the
piston, if not it is necessary to replace some or all of the shims. Replace
the piston o-ring then lightly grease it. Note: failure to install the shims in
the correct sequence will result in the adjustment range being reduced.

27.) Carefully insert the piston into the reservoir while holding the bolt
against the piston so the shims do not fall out.

28.) Next place the large shim over the shim stack bolt and down against piston followed by the small thin shim and next the thick pivot shim. Check to see if the
large shim sits flat against the piston, if not replace it. Note: the thick shim has one groundside and one stamped side. You must make sure the flat side is facing

the thin shim and that the flat surfaces face up towards the piston.

29.) Lightly grease the outside of the reservoir tube and invert it so the bolt faces upwards. Next apply a small amount of light thread lock to the threads and
screw the reservoir tube up and into the upturned axle clamp while holding the bolt in place. After engaging the tube a few threads, you must start the
compression stack bolt. Once the bolt is engaged you may screw the tube all the way in and tighten with the special tool

30.) Next screw the shim stack bolt all the way in and torque to 75 in Ib (8.5Nm)

31.) Replace the o-ring on the compression adjuster screw, lightly grease and insert into the axle clamp. Screw the adjuster all the in way until it stops, then

unscrew 2 turns.

32.) Place the axle clamp upright in a vise. Be sure to use soft jaws or some protection for the axle clamp.

33.) Replace the pressure cap o-ring on the reservoir pressure cap and put it to one side.

34.) Fill the reservoir with shock oil. Note: You may have to top off the oil a few times while it finds its own level in the inner leg also.

35.) Lightly grease the floating piston and place it down into the tube with the smooth side downwards. Gently rocking the piston from side to side helps the

piston to easily enter the tube. Note: initially tipping the piston to one side slightly expels air out from the tube. Also note, if you force the piston into the tube - you
will damage the o-ring and the fork will not function correctly.

36.) Once the piston is correctly inserted into the reservoir tube, push it all the way to the bottom until it touches the shim stack bolt.

37.) Top up the oil level in the inner leg to the top of the tube.

38.) Place the piston ring around the piston and insert the whole assembly gently down into the inner leg. Note, place your finger over the needle hole so no oil

can be expelled.

39.) Keep your finger over the needle hole and slowly stroke the damper assembly up and down to expel the air trapped in the piston.

40.) After the bubbles stop rising, lightly grease the seal head thread, o-ring and inner leg threads and then lift the shaft assembly up until the piston is

approximately 1” (25mm) below the surface of the oil.

41.) Next install the seal head down into the inner leg. Note, it’s necessary to gently ease the seal head o-ring down past the threads to avoid damaging the o-
ring. Please also note that some oil will be expelled out of the bleed hole in the seal head, so don’t point the hole towards your body or face.

42.) Screw the seal head down into the inner leg leaving 1/8” (3mm) of thread showing. Note, this gap is used later to preset the height of the floating piston in
the reservoir.

43.) Lightly grease the o-ring then insert the needle and screw in until the o-ring is just below the surface of the shaft, then screw one more full revolution.

44.) Reposition the axle clamp in the vise so the compression adjuster is pointing upwards.

45.) Remove the compression adjuster screw.

46.) Push the piston slowly in until it touches the shim stack bolt again. Note: oil will be purged out of the compression adjuster hole, as with all service

operations safety glasses are required.

47.) Replace the compression adjuster screw and set at 2 turns out.

48.) Reposition the unit in the vise so it is now upright then tighten the seal head down against the inner tube.

49.) Replace the reservoir pressure cap.

50.) Re-pressurize the reservoir. Note: your WB Factory fork is set at 50psi with Nitrogen. Nitrogen is an inert gas and is used because it does not expand

when it gets hot, this keeps the damping rate more consistent. Air is satisfactory, but nitrogen is preferable if available.

51.) Test the damper by pushing the shaft down. If the rebuild was done correctly you should have a damper with approximately 10” (255mm) or more stroke
and it should return to full extension in a smooth controlled manner. Next, screw the compression adjuster in all the way in, stroke the damper in. You should
feel that the damper is significantly stiffer, if so unscrew it exactly 2 turns and then screw the needle in all the way and stroke it again. You should now be able to
a see a significantly slower return, if so you have a successful rebuild, if not you have probably missed something and need to go over the process again.
Unscrew the needle 3 turns.

52.) Replace the spring pin with a new one, rest the axle clamp on a flat surface and tap the pin into place using a small hammer. Note: a small needle nose
pliers holds the pin nicely while you tap it into place.

Reinstalling the outer leg assemblies

1.) The method for reinstalling the outer legs on to the inner leg assemblies is very similar for right and left sides.

2.) Clamp the axle clamp in the vise with your soft jaws or protection.

3.) Fill the gap between the oil and wiper seals with WB suspension lube or non-lithium grease.

4.) Slide the outer leg over the end of the inner leg assembly taking care not to fold the lips of the seal under.

5.) Once you feel the seals and the lower bearings are engaged, pour in 10 - 20cc of 40W motor oil. Note this method gets the oil in-between the bearings and

provides a constant lube to reduce friction and wear.

6.) After the lube is inserted, slide the outer tube all the way down until the wiper seal contacts the axle clamp.

Reinstalling the springs and LH top cap

7.) Clamp the axle clamp in the vise with the soft jaws so it’s lying over somewhere near level with the ground but not downward or the oil will run out.

8.) Pull the dummy rod out to its full extension.

9.) Coat one end of the main spring with grease and insert it into the outer leg.

10.) Install the double spring guide and then screw the jam nut on all the way until it bottoms at the end of its thread.

11.) Install the small spring and then screw the top cap down on to the dummy rod until it stops, then bring the jam nut up and lock the cap in place.

12.) Screw the top cap into the outer leg. Note: a little more than hand tight is all that is necessary, as the cap remains tight when clamped by the upper crown.

Reinstalling the RH top cap

13.)Screw the needle in clockwise until it stops.

14.) Install the small spacer in top cap if you removed it earlier.

15.) Carefully clamp the shaft in the vise using the clamp blocks. Note: you can easily damage the shaft by scratching or bending it, when you clamp, make

sure the outer leg isn’t touching the bench below the vise.

16.) Install the top cap down on to the damper rod until it stops, and tighten it.

17.) Remove the unit from the vise and screw the top cap into the outer leg. Note: a little more than hand tight is all that is necessary, as the cap remains tight

when clamped by the upper crown.

18.) Readjust the needle to your preferred position or 3 turns out.

Exploded Views

The following illustration and parts table gives you the exploded view of the DH-3. The parts table lists the parts for the DH-3 fork and is
the reference you will need if ordering replacement parts. See your local dealer to order the parts that you require.

69

2

68

67

20

66

41

65

64

63

62

61

60

59

58

57

56

55

54

53

52

51

20

50

49

48

47

46

45

44

17

31

32

33

17

34

35

36

37

38

39

40

41

42

43

30

17

29

28

27

26

1

2

3

*

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

-

­69
68
67
66
65
64
63
62
61
60
59
58
57
56
55
54
53
52
51
50
49
48
47
46
45
44
43
42
41
40
39
38
37
36
35
34
33
32
31
30
29
28
27
26
25
24
23
22
21
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10

9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1

Part#

97-737

P0105/P0107

P2348
97-1416
P2201
97-1409
P2036
P2028
P2014
P2015
P2004
P2012
P3000
29-142
P2005
P4010
P4650
P4016
P2353
P3025-1
P2010
P1515
P4011
29-126/127
P3028
P2016

29-136/P2001B

P3026
97-3677
P4015
97-1418
P4004
P1508
97-1351
P4301
P3060
97-986

P1562/P1562-1

P1159-1

97-9300

P1158-1

P4006
P1509-1
97-9200
97-3677-1
98-406-2
P4005
98-406-1
P3027
P3307
97-3500
P3021
P3309
97-3341
97-852
97-4110
97-3342
P3321
P3322
P2026
P3208
P3304
97-3518

97-3508

97-3507
P3300
P3220
97-4100
P3312
P3020
P2349

Discription

OWNERS MANUAL
DECAL-0105 (RED LEGS),0107(BLUE)
FORK CAP
O-RING, SHAFT
SEAL HEAD
DAMPER SEAL
NEEDLE ASSEMBLY
DAMPER ROD
CHECK VALVE GUIDE
CHECK VALVE SPRING
CHECK VALVE 22 X 12 X 0.02
PISTON
PISTON RING
LOW SPD SHIM 22 X 8 X 0.20
HIGH SPD SHIM 22 X 10 X 0.15
BOLT, DAMPER
DUST CAP
VALVE CORE
RES. PRESSURE CAP
O-RING
FLOATING PISTON
RESERVIOR
VALVE ASSM. BOLT
(1) 29-126, (2) 29-127 SHIMS

COMPRESSION PISTON O-RING

COMPRESSION PISTON
(1)29-136, (1)P2001B SHIMS
O-RING
AXLE, UD180
RETAINING PIN
O-RING
COMPRESSION ADJ. SCREW
LEG ASSEMBLY, RH UD180
WIPER SEAL
C-CLIP
OIL SEAL
DU BUSHING
OUTER LEG-1562-RED,1562-1-BLUE

LOWER CROWN ASSY

STAR NUT, 1 1/8"

UPPER CROWN ASSY

NUMBER PLATE SCREW-2000 DH3
LEG ASSEMBLY, DH-3
BOLT, AXLE CLAMP

AXLE SPACER, UD180
RH STONE GUARD

SCREW NYLON GUARD GUIDE
LH STONE GUARD

O-RING GUARD GUIDE

BOTTOM SEAT
SPRING, STD 70
O-RING S. HEAD / LIMITER
BOTTOM STOP DH<2/3
COMPRESSION BUMPER

BOLT, M6
WASHER, TOP-OUT

REBOUND BUMPER
REBOUND BUMPER WASHER
REBOUND BUMPER SPACER
DUMMY ROD

NEGATIVE SPRING
SPRING GUIDE

SPRING, UD180 (SOFT)
3508 (HEAVY)
SPRING, UD180 (STD)
SPRING GUIDE, DOUBLE
SPRING, AUX
JAM NUT

PRELOAD SPACER

O-RING TOP CAP
FORK CAP

1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
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3
1
1
1
1
1
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6
2
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1
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6
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1
1

12

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*
*
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*
3
1

MAINTENANCE

DATE SERVICE PERFORMED DATE SERVICE PERFORMED

WARRANTY

White Brothers forks are designed to enhance riding pleasure and as such are warranted to be free from defects in materials and workmanship
for a period of six months from the date of purchase. On receipt of the fork by White Brothers, if they are found to be defective, White Brothers
will determine whether to replace or repair the fork. This warranty is the sole and exclusive remedy. White Brothers shall not be liable for any
indirect, special or consequential damages. Warranty does not apply to any product that has been installed improperly or adjusted using
methods not outlined in this manual. Warranty also does not cover forks that have been misused, or forks that are missing or have altered serial
numbers (located on the backside of the right fork stanchion). The forks are not warranted against damage in the appearance of the fork or for
modifications not outlined in this manual. This warranty does not cover breakage, bending, or damage that may result from crashes, falls or
abuse. Normal wear (i.e. seals, bushings, slider finish, etc.) and wear and damage caused by lack of proper maintenance is not included. *A
copy of your proof of purchase, including your name, address, phone number and fork serial number (located on lower left leg) must be
returned within 30 days of purchase to activate and validate this warranty. Customers in the USA please contact your dealer for a Return
Authorization Number (RA#) before returning the forks. All forks returned for inspection must be sent freight paid to:

C/O White Brothers Customer Service

Www.whitebrotherscycling.com

*Customers outside the USA please contact the dealer or distributor in your area

Eko Sport, Inc.

580 North Westgate Dr.

Grand Junction, CO 81505

Phone [phone]

Fax [phone]