Owners Name: ___________________________________________________________________________
Address: _________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
Phone: ___________________________________________________________________________________
Purchase Date: ___________________________________________________________________________
Purchase Location: _______________________________________________________________________
Serial # __________________________________________________________________________________
(Located on the backside of the right axle clamp)
SAFETY
1.) NEVER REMOVE STEER TUBE FROM CROWN. THIS
IS A PRESSED IN PART, REMOVING IT WILL RENDER
BOTH CROWN AND STEERER INOPERABLE*. MAKE
SURE YOUR FORK CAPS AND ALL FORK HARDWARE
(brake studs, pinch bolts, etc.) ARE TIGHT.
2.) DO NOT PERFORM ANY MODIFICATIONS OR
ADJUSTMENTS THAT ARE NOT OUTLINED IN THIS
MANUAL. SEE THE TUNING SECTION OF THE
MANUAL FOR MORE DETAILS.
3.) INSPECT YOUR FORK BEFORE EVERY RIDE.
INSPECT THE CROWN, TUBES AND AXLE SEAT
AREAS FOR ANY SIGNS OF FATIGUE, BENDING,
CRACKING OR OTHER DAMAGE. IF YOU NOTICE
ANY TYPE OF DAMAGE, DO NOT RIDE ON YOUR
FORK. RETURN IT TO YOUR DEALER FOR A
COMPLETE INSPECTION AND NECESSARY REPAIR
OR WARRANTY STEPS. PLEASE REFER TO THE
WARRANTY SECTION OF THIS MANUAL.
4.) PERFORM ALL RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE
ACCORDING TO THE MAINTENANCE SECTION OF
THIS MANUAL. FAILURE TO PERFORM
MAINTENANCE COULD DRASTICALLY REDUCE
YOUR FORK’S LIFE AND PERFORMANCE.
5.) WHITE BROTHERS RECOMMENDS THAT YOU
WEAR PROPER SAFETY EQUIPMENT EVERY TIME
YOU RIDE, INCLUDING AN APPROVED BICYCLE
HELMET. NEVER RIDE AT NIGHT WITHOUT LIGHTS!
* IF SERVICE BECOMES NECESSARY OR REMOVAL
OCCURS, PLEASE CALL WHITE BROTHERS
CUSTOMER SERVICE FOR PRODUCT EVALUATION
AND DIAGNOSIS.
APPLICATIONS
Thanks for purchasing your new White Brothers Fork. You
are in for the best ride of your life. Our forks are designed to
give you the level of performance you need to ride at your
absolute peak.
The White Brothers DH-3 fork features lightweight, dual
rate coil springs, air/oil separated damping system, externally
adjustable rebound damping, and piggyback design air
charged reservoir with compression damping external
adjuster. This technology is borrowed from motorcycling
and offers the best possible suspension action. Steering
accuracy is improved over conventional MTB forks by
utilizing dual billet aluminum steering crowns, oversized
31.75mm fork tubes, inverted stanchion/slider design and
large 20mm axle. Fork travel has been set at 7.28” (185mm)
to offer the best performance for downhill racing terrain. A
combination coil spring and high-cushion bottom bumper is
used to minimize hard bottoming.
Every possible effort has been made to make the White
Brothers Fork very light in weight and perform at a level
superior to other forks on the market. To ensure peak
performance, proper installation and periodic maintenance is
required. Please read this manual in its entirety to familiarize
yourself with the fork to insure your satisfaction with this
product.
White Brothers Forks are designed for offroad use only.
They are not equipped with proper reflectors for road use. If
you are going to use your fork on the road, have your dealer
or mechanic install reflectors that meet the Consumer
Product Safety Commission’s (C.P.S.C.) requirements for
bicycle standards. If you have any questions concerning
C.P.S.C. Standards, please talk to your dealer.
When using your fork on public land and trails, please
respect the rights of other users and stay on established paths
and trails. By mountain biking responsibly, you help to
ensure the future of our sport.
Copyright 2001, Eko Sport, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
WB recommends that installation and service should be carried out by
experienced shop mechanics or qualified service personnel.
All numbers in the detailed service procedures refer to the parts listed in
the exploded view.
Building the Wheel
The DH-3 fork is designed in 120mm hub width specification, this is to
allow the strongest possible spoke configuration. Even if you use
110mm specification hub the spoke angles are more even, resulting in a
stronger wheel. If you are using a 110mm hub, supply your wheel builder
with the 10mm spacer and inform them that they must use the spacer for
correct alignment.
Installing on a New Frame
1.) Install head set cups in frame per the manufacturers instructions.
2.) Remove the fork from the box, loosen the crown bolts and remove the
leg assemblies.
3.) Install the lower bearing race on the WB steerer tube pressing it down
until it firmly contacts the lower crown.
4.) Install the lower crown on the frame, then place the upper head set
assembly onto the steerer tube. Next install the upper crown onto the
steerer tube, push the top crown down firmly while holding the lower
crown up to ensure they are fully seated in position then tighten the center
clamp bolt slightly to temporarily hold everything in place. Note: it is
unlikely you will need to place spacers between the top head set bearing
and the upper crown. Your WB fork is designed for a compact fitment and
will allow the most geometry adjustment with the crowns closer together.
5.) If your head tube is too long (too deep) then the tire can contact the
crown, this is very dangerous. If your head tube is in excess of 5.5”
(140mm) then you should perform the following test to determine
whether you can mount the forks on your frame. Mount the leg
assemblies into the crowns and align the top of the outer tube flush with
the top of the top crown, this is the highest the forks can be set at. Next:
install the front wheel. Note: it isn’t necessary to mount the brake and
tighten the axle etc at this time. Please also note that your DH-3 fork has
up to 3/4” (19mm) negative travel so it’s necessary to pull up on the bike
while you hold the wheel down to achieve maximum travel. Now measure
the distance from the bottom of the lower crown to the highest knob on the
tire, you should have a distance of 7 7/16” (190mm). Iif not, you may
want to try changing to a smaller tire size. Iif you are already using a
small diameter tire your options are quite limited. Consult your local WB
service center or distributor for options or return the fork to the place you
purchased it from. If you have adequate clearance, you can continue
with the installation. Note, this is a good time to check how far you can
slide the forks up in the crowns to tune steering characteristics. Assuming
that you have a distance greater than 190mm you will have adjustment
possibilities. For example: When measuring the distance you read
200mm, this means you can adjust your fork up through the crowns
10mm. It’s a good idea to make a note of this dimension. If you change to
a different tire always recheck this dimension before riding.
Never ride the bicycle with less than 190mm of tire clearance the tire
could come in contact with the lower crown causing you to loose
control of the bicycle resulting in possible injury or death.
Installing handlebar mounting system and
Cutting steerer Tube
A) Using Moto Mounts Mark the steerer tube at the top of the crown
with a scribe or sharp instrument. Proceed to number 6.
B) Using Steering Stem Mount the stem per the manufacturers
instructions. You may wish to include stem spacers at this point, before
you cut the steerer stem. This will allow some vertical adjustment later.
Proceed to number 6.
6.) Remove the crowns from the frame.
7.) Mark or scribe a second line 1/8” (3mm) further down on the steerer
tube. Note, some head set caps have a larger shoulder and you may
need to remove slightly more tube or add a short steerer tube spacer for
the head set cap to clear.
8.) Next cut the steerer tube at the second mark (lower) and remove any
inside and outside burrs on the steerer tube, then clean away any filings
etc.
9.) Install the star nut in the steerer tube. Note, WB highly recommends
installing the star nut with the appropriate special tool, if the star nut is not
inserted correctly it can destroy the nut rendering it useless. You will then
need to drive it all the way through and out the bottom of the steerer tube
and obtain a new part and attempt the installation again.
10.) Lightly grease the bearing area and reinstall the lower crown in the
head tube.
11.) Install the upper head set assembly per the manufacturers
Installing the dual crowns
12.) Clean and de-grease the steer tube in the area where the upper
crown will clamp. Note: as a general rule clamping areas should be grease
free, any area that rotates should be greased. Sometimes, as in this case
items have rotating and clamping areas, careful preparation ensures the
design will function correctly.
13.) Mount the upper crown, and install the leg assemblies. Please see
“Steering Clearance” note below. Lightly clamp some of the crown bolts
then adjust the height of the leg assemblies. Note: WB recommends
adjusting your legs to the middle of the adjustment range that you
calculated earlier.
14.) Now that you have the crowns pre-assembled you need to adjust the
headset bearing per the manufacturers instructions. Torque the upper
crown bolts only to 8 ft Ib (11Nm). Next, adjust the head set center cap
bolt to adjust free play and/or tension on the headset. Then torque the
steerer tube clamp bolt to 8 ft Ib (11Nm) and finally torque the 6 lower
crown bolts to 8 ft Ib (11Nm). Note: all crown to leg assembly bolts should
be tightened in sequence (first one then the other and back again).
Steering Clearance
Because the WB DH-3 fork is a dual crown design, and there are no
industry standards for lock-to-lock stops, the fork tubes are likely to come
in contact with the bicycle frame with no protective stops mounted. To
eliminate the chance of damage to the fork or frame a cushion stop must
be fabricated to eliminate metal-to-metal contact. WB has seen many
innovative adaptations of twist shift grips, elastomer and automotive
exhaust mounting rings used. Normally sliding a rubber ring over the outer
legs and adjusting them to a position where they contact the frame first
when the steering is tuned is the most effective method.
Installing on a Used Frame
1.) Remove your old forks.
2.) If you plan to reuse the same headset, inspect the bearings, seals
and/or o-rings. WB recommends servicing the head set per the
manufacturers instructions before remounting the head set on the frame.
If you deem it necessary to replace the head set with the exact same
model then mark and cut your steerer tube as described in the previous
section. If you plan on changing the headset to a different type then
proceed with installing the fork as if it were a new frame and please ignore
the following instruction.
3.) If you are mounting the fork with the same steerer stem parts you can
use the old steerer tube as a length gauge to cut the new one. You must
add 0.63” (16mm) to the length of the old tube. It’s very important that the
steerer tube is cut straight and even to ensure maximum clamping in the
crown area.
4.) Continue installation as if it were a new fork starting at section 8.
These instructions cover installation of the WB fork using a cassette type
head set bearing assembly. WB urges you to read the head set
manufacturers instructions in case your bearing assembly is not installed
in this manner.
Mounting the wheel and front brake
The 20mm axle system is designed to provide maximum rigidity; the 3-bolt
clamp and axle thread system utilizes the center spacer in the hub as an
extra torque stiffener. The method on installing the wheel is as follows.
1.) Slide the axle an inch or so into the RH axle clamp. Iif you are using a
110mm spec hub then place the 10mm axle spacer over the axle so the
spacer is just flush with the axle clamp, if you are using a 120mm spec
hub, the spacer is not required. You should now have the axle engaged in
the axle clamp and hanging out the right side of the fork.
2.) Pick up the wheel, hold it up to the axle and slide the axle into the hub
through the RH wheel spacer and out through the LH spacer slightly.
3.) Start the axle in the left hand axle clamp. At this point it’s necessary to
compress the RH leg slightly to make it the same length as the LH side,
once it is the same level the axle should slide through easily with a little
juggling around. Note, it should not be necessary to force the axle in place.
It sometimes helps to rotate the axle with a 11/16” (17mm) wrench as you
push it through the wheel and into the axle clamp.