If you need assistance, contact your dealer,
or call the Whirlpool Consumer Assistance
Center toll-free, 1-800-253-1301, 24 hours a
day.
2
Important Information
The following information is used throughout this Installation Guide. Read it carefully so you
are familiar with it.
Your safety and the safety of others are very important.
We have provided many important safety messages in this manual and on your appliance. Always read and obey all
safety messages.
This is the safety alert symbol.
This symbol alerts you to potential hazards that can kill or hurt you and others.
All safety messages will follow the safety alert symbol and either the word “DANGER” or
“WARNING.” These words mean:
You can be killed or seriously injured if you don't
immediately follow instructions.
You can be killed or seriously injured if you don't
follow instructions.
All safety messages will tell you what the potential hazard is, tell you how to reduce the chance of injury, and tell you
what can
happen if the instructions are not followed.
• This Installation Guide gives you complete
instructions on how to install the Ice Maker
Kit in your refrigerator-freezer and connect
a water line to it. Please read the guide
carefully and follow the instructions exactly
as described. Also, make sure that you
observe all of the “safety” instructions.
• This kit is designed so that almost anyone
can install it; however, a certain amount of
mechanical ability is required.
• Before you start to install your Ice Maker
Kit, you will have to purchase a copper
tubing kit that contains a “Regular Valve
and Clamp Assembly” (for refrigerators with
an automatic ice maker, or self-filling trays).
The kit contains all of the hardware
necessary to connect your ice maker to the
water supply. You can purchase one at
most hardware or plumbing supply stores.
3
⁄16
• DO NOT USE PIERCING-TYPE, OR
"
SHUT-OFF VALVES. They reduce the flow
of water to the ice maker, and are easily
clogged.
• DO NOT USE POLYETHYLENE TUBING
to connect the ice maker to the water line.
Use only 1⁄4
(O.D.) copper tubing.
"
CUSTOMER INSTALLATION IS NOT
WARRANTED BY THE REFRIGERATOR
OR ICE MAKER MANUFACTURER.
3
Before You Begin
Tools
Gather required tools and parts before
starting installation. Read and follow the
instructions provided with any tools listed here.
1. Regular screwdriver
2. Phillips screwdriver
7
3.
»16
"
adjustable wrench)
4. Pliers
1
5.
»4
nut driver
"
6. Hand drill with
7. Small hand level (optional)
8. Small
9. Tubing cutter
10.Center punch
11.Hammer
12.Scissors
13.Ruler
14.Step stool (optional)
1
and
»2
3
»4-round file
open-end wrenches (or an
"
1
»4
"
drill bit
Ins tallation notes
1.Follow all of the instructions. Read
through the entire step so that you
understand it before you perform it.
2.The illustrations in this Installation Guide
are meant to clarify the installation steps
you need to perform. For each set of steps
shown, refer to the diagram immediately
beside or below the text for clarification.
Some illustrations also contain “DETAILS.”
DETAILS are contained in bubbles
alongside the larger illustration. A DETAIL
shows a close-up illustration of a certain
portion of a diagram or an illustration of a
specific step you are to perform. DETAILS
are labeled A, B, C or D and are clearly
referenced in each step.
3.When you are instructed to install a part,
position the part as shown in the illustration.
Components
Remove the contents from the shipping carton
and set them on a table where they can be
easily identified and located. Check all of the
components in the kit against the following list
to help you become familiar with them. When
you identify a component, place a check
mark ( 3) after it. The KEY numbers
correspond to the “Component Illustrations.”
Do not discard any of the packing material
until you account for all of the components. If
you need to order a replacement part for the
Ice Maker, a replacement parts list is provided
on page 18.
KEY QTY.DESCRIPTION
11Ice maker
21Ice bucket
BEFORE
COMPONENT ILLUSTRATIONS
4
Installing the Ice Maker
Making preparations
Refer to the illustration below for the
following steps.
1.Pull the refrigerator away from the wall so
that you can easily access the rear panel.
IMPORTANT:Make sure to protect the floor
from any damage.
WARNING
Electrical Shock Hazard
Disconnect power before installing
ice maker.
Failure to do so could result in death or
electrical shock.
2.Unplug Refrigerator or disconnect power.
Open the freezer door and remove all of
3.
the food items from inside the freezer
compartment.
4.
On top-mount models without a full-width
freezer shelf, remove the ice tray shelf.
Place the shelf aside, as you will use it
later to support the ice bucket.
5.
Remove the screw from the ice maker
connector & tube cover. Retain this
screw for ice maker installation.
Connector &
Tube Cover
Screw
Removing connector & tube cover
Insert the end of a small-bladed screwdriver
6.
under the edge of the ice maker mounting
hole plug in the side of the freezer liner, and
pry it out of its hole. You can discard the plug.
Shoulder Screws
NOTE: The work area for refrigerator-freezer
is shown in DETAIL A below.
Detail A
Rear wall
You will be
left side
of freezer
compartment
Power
cord
plug and
receptacle
Work area
working in
these areas
Mounting
Hole Plug
NOTE: Verify the shoulder screws are in position.
5
M ounting the Ice M aker
Refer to the side diagrams for the following
steps.
7.Position the ice maker inside the freezer
compartment and connect its wiring
connector to the wiring harness connector
so they lock together (the locking arm will
snap over the raised tab). The connectors
will fit together only one way.
8. Hang the ice maker from the tabs on the
shoulder screws shown earlier. Make
sure that the bracket mounting hole
is aligned with the mounting hole in
the freezer liner.
NOTE: Guide fill tube into water cup hole.
Connectors
9.Mount the ice maker to the freezer liner
1
»2
mounting hole with the
"
hex-head
sheet-metal screw removed from the
ice maker connector & tube cover.
Water cup
Bracket
Mounting Hole
Mounting the ice maker
6
Installing the Water Line
Choosing a location
1. Open the copper tubing kit that you
purchased earlier, and lay the contents
neatly on a table where you can identify
them easily. The parts from the kit that you
will use are as follows:
1Regular Valve (not the steel-
piercing type)
2Compression Sleeves
2Compression Nuts
2Clamps
2Screws
2Nuts
1Gasket Seal *
1Length of Coiled Copper Tubing
* - not needed for 11 Cubic Foot Top Freezer Models (24ECKMF kit)
NOTE: When you work with the soft copper
tubing, be careful not to kink it. If you
accidentally kink the tubing, do not use it.
IMPORTANT: Do not install water line tubing
in a location where the temperature may fall
below freezing; otherwise, property damage
could occur.
2. Choose a suitable water pipe location to
install the water shut-off valve (see side
diagram for some suggested locations). We
recommend installing the valve on a vertical
length of cold (not hot) water pipe that is
nearest your refrigerator. If a vertical length
of pipe is not nearby, you can use a
horizontal length of water pipe, however,
you will have to drill the access hole for the
valve into the top or side of the pipe (not the
bottom). This will keep water in the pipe
from flowing down onto the drill, and also
keep sediment from collecting in the valve
later.
NOTE: Depending on the location of the
horizontal pipe in relation to the floor and
wall, drilling into it may not be possible.
3. Drill a
3
⁄8" hole through the floor or wall to
the water pipe.
Through
floor to
basement
cold water
pipe
Under sink
to cold
water pipe
Typical water pipe locations
Through
wall to
utility room
cold water
pipe
In crawl
space
under
home to
cold water
pipe
7
Routing the copper tubing
Refer to the side diagram for the following
steps.
1. Uncoil the necessary length of copper
tubing and straighten it, then route the end
of the tubing through the access hole you
drilled to the location you have chosen to
install the shut-off valve. Straighten only
enough of the copper tubing to reach this
location. Leave the rest coiled near the
access hole.
2. At this time, make sure that you have been
supplied with enough tubing so that when
you are finished connecting the water line,
you will have enough coiled behind the
refrigerator to easily move it forward far
enough to clean behind it. Also make sure
that the coils are large enough so that when
the unit is pulled forward, the windings will
not stretch too far and kink.
Back wall
1
Drill
⁄4" hole in
front side of
vertical water
pipe
Routing the copper tubing
Allow 4 to 5 feet of
coiled tubing for
moving refrigerator
Drill3⁄8" access
hole for tubing
Water
valve
Coiled copper
tubing
Refrigerator
3. Turn off the cold water supply going to the
water pipe where you will be installing the
shut-off valve.
4. Open a cold water tap that is connected to
the selected water pipe and bleed off the
water pressure. Leave the tap open until
after you complete the water line hook up.
5. Use a hammer and a center punch, and
mark the location of the hole for the shut-off
valve. If you are marking copper tubing, do
not strike the punch hard enough to bend it.
6. Install a
1
⁄4" bit in the drill, and drill an access
hole through just the front side (not through
both sides) of the cold water pipe.
7. Check the hole and make sure that you
have drilled completely through one side of
the pipe. The edges of the hole should be
smooth and round. If necessary, use a
3
small
⁄4-round file to remove any rough
edges from inside the hole, and any burrs
from around the top of the hole.
8
Installing the shut-off val ve
Refer to the diagram below for the following
steps.
1. Locate the shut-off valve and the front pipe
clamp (with the threaded hole in the center)
from the copper tubing kit. Then, making
sure not to crossthread the valve, screw
the end with the pilot tube into the threaded
hole of the clamp. Hand-tighten the valve
as far as it will go (the threaded shaft is
slightly tapered and can only be tightened
so far).
2. Use a
1
⁄2" open-end (or adjustable) wrench,
and turn the body of the shut-off valve an
1
additional
⁄8-turn to secure it to the clamp.
3. Slide the rubber seal gasket (from the
copper tubing kit) over the pilot tube (the
unthreaded portion) of the shut-off valve.
4. Slide the pilot tube of the shut-off valve
into the water pipe access hole so it is
against the seal gasket, and install the
back pipe clamp over the water pipe.
Secure the clamps to the pipe with the two
screws and nuts that were supplied with
the copper tubing kit. Tighten the nuts
equally so that the space between the
clamps is the same (see DETAIL A). DO
NOT OVERTIGHTEN the nuts, or you
could deform the clamps and damage the
seal gasket.
DETAIL A
Keep spacing
equal
Pilot tube
Shut-off valve
Screw
Nut
Back pipe
clamp
Seal gasket
Front pipe
clamp
Vertical cold
water pipe
Mounting the shut-off valve
to the water pipe
9
Connecting the copper tubing to the shut-off valve
Refer to the diagram below for the following
steps.
1.Straighten a 2" section of copper tubing and
make sure that the opening is round and
cut evenly across the end. If necessary, use
a tubing cutter (or a hacksaw) and cut the
end off, then file it so it is even, and remove
any burrs from around the inside and outside edges so it is smooth and round. When
you are finished, clean the filings from
inside the tubing as much as possible.
2.Position the compression nut as shown,
and slide it over the end of the copper
tubing.
3.Slide a compression sleeve over the
copper tubing until it is approximately
1" from the end.
4.Insert the end of the copper tubing into the
outlet connector of the shut-off valve as far
as it will go, and then hand tighten the
compression nut as much as possible.
5.Use a 1⁄2" open-end wrench, and further
tighten the compression nut on the shut-off
valve
one additional turn
. If necessary, you
will tighten the nut further after you turn on
the water supply.
6.Turn the T-handle on the shut-off valve to
its fully “open” (counterclockwise rotation)
position.
10
Shut-off
valve
Open
T-handle
Compression nut
Outlet
connector
Connecting the copper tubing to the shut-off valve
Compression
sleeve
Copper
tubing
Connecting the copper tubing to the water valve
Refer to the diagram below for the following
steps.
1. Check to make sure that the free end of
the tubing is round and cut even. If necessary, prepare the end in the same manner
as you did earlier. Be sure to clean the
filings from inside the tubing after you
prepare the end.
When you perform the next step, make sure
not to kink the copper tubing.
2. Starting at the free end, straighten ap-
proximately 20
of the copper tubing.
"
3. Close the water tap you left open earlier to
bleed the water lines.
4. Insert the end of the copper tubing into a
pail, and have someone turn on the water
supply. Allow enough water to flow
through the lines to thoroughly flush them
out. Once the water runs clear, turn off the
supply and bleed the lines.
9. Insert the end of the tubing into the water
inlet connector at the top of the water
valve as far as it will go, and hand tighten
the compression nut as much as possible.
10.Use a
1
⁄2"open-end wrench, and further
tighten the compression nut on the water
inlet connector
one additional turn
. If
necessary, you will tighten the nut further
after you turn on the water supply.
11.Mount the strain relief clamp to the back
of the cabinet with the hex-head screw
you removed earlier.
Copper
tubing clamp
Mounting screw
5. Remove the strain relief clamp from the
rear of the cabinet and slide it over the end
of the copper tubing. Make sure you position the flanges as shown.
6. Slide a compression nut over the free
end of the copper tubing.
7. Slide a compression sleeve over the
"
copper tubing and position it 1
from
the end.
8. If one is installed, remove the plastic cap
from the water inlet fitting on the water
valve and discard the cap.
Water valve
Copper tubing
Compression
nut
Compression
sleeve
Water inlet
fitting
Connecting the copper tubing
to the water valve
11
Turning the water on
NOTE: Check to be sure you tighten the
compression nuts that you do not overtighten
them and destroy the compression sleeving
and the end of the soft copper tubing. If this
happens, you will have to cut off the end of
the tubing, purchase a new compression
sleeve, and start over. Go slow!
1. Turn on the water supply and check the
shut-off valve for leakage. If necessary,
refer to the side diagram, and tighten the
compression nut on the shut-off valve
small increments until the leakage just
. Wipe off the connection with a cloth
stops
each time you check for leaks.
in
Shut-off
valve
Water flow
Open
Compression nut
T-handle
2. Check the water valve for any leakage. If
necessary, tighten the compression nut
(see the side diagram)
until the leaking just stops
in small increments
.
Tightening the shut-off valve connection
WATER
Water
valve
Tightening the water valve connection
Compression
nut
Water inlet
fitting
12
Final Installation
Installing the access cover and forming the
copper tubing
1. Reinstall the rear access cover on the
refrigerator so the water valve tubing is
inside the cover, and the copper water line
is outside (see the diagram below), then
secure the cover with the seven hex-head
screws you removed earlier.
2. Loop the copper tubing coming from the
water valve as shown. Position the coiled
copper tubing near the center of the unit so
that it forms an “accordion-fold” (as shown
in the diagram below) when it is moved toand-from the wall.
Hex-head
screws
Form tubing
Rear access
cover
loops as
shown
Copper tubing
Place water
valve tubing
behind cover
Hex-head
screws
Installing the access cover and forming the copper tubing
13
Connecting the power/ leveling the unit
WARNING
Electrical Shock Hazard
Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
Do not remove ground prong.
Do not use an adapter.
Do not use an extension cord.
Failure to follow these instructions can result in
death, fire, or electrical shock.
1. Plug the power cord into its AC outlet, and
push the refrigerator back against the wall.
2. Place a level on top of the cabinet. If you
need to relevel the refrigerator, follow the
procedure to adjust the front casters, as
outlined in your refrigerator’s “Use and Care
Guide.”
3. Check the position of the ice maker. If it is
crooked and needs to be adjusted, loosen
the mounting screw and bracket screw
(see the side diagram), position the ice
maker as desired then tighten the screws.
Mounting
Screw
Bracket
Screw
14
Starting the Ice Maker
1.Wash out the ice bucket, and then slide it
under the ice maker (see the side diagram)
as far as it will go. The ice bucket will be
sitting on top of the freezer shelf.
Ice maker
Ice bucket
Installing the ice bucket
IMPORTANT: On top-mount models without a
full-width freezer shelf, you will need to place
the ice bucket on top of the inverted ice tray
shelf. First, position the ice tray shelf face
down so that the shorter side is alongside the
freezer wall (see DETAIL A). Then insert the
tabs on the shorter side of the shelf into the
slots on the edge of the freezer floor. This will
hold the shelf in position. Next, place the ice
bucket on top of the inverted ice tray shelf and
slide it under the ice maker (see side diagram). The ice maker will not function properly
if the ice bucket is placed directly on the
freezer floor.
2.Place the items back into the freezer
compartment.
3.Lower the arm on the ice maker (see the
side diagram) to its “on” position, and close
the freezer door. The ice maker will begin to
make ice within 24 hours.
NOTE: It usually takes approximately 24
hours for the ice maker to begin producing
ice. Once ice is available, you may notice that
it has an “off taste.” If this happens, make two
or three batches of ice and discard them.
After that, the “off-taste” should be gone. If
you have any problems, refer to “Troubleshooting” on page 16.
This completes the installation of your Ice
Maker.
DETAIL A
Tabs
Slots
Off
On
Turning the ice maker on
Raise arm to
stop ice
Lower arm to
start it
15
Troubleshooting
Operational notes
1.The Ice Maker water valve contains a flow
washer that acts like a pressure regulator to
control the water flow. For the Ice Maker to
work properly, the water pressure in your
home must be between 20 and 120 pounds
per-square-inch (psi). If you encounter
problems with your Ice Maker’s ability to
produce ice, call your water utility company
and have the water pressure checked.
Troubleshooting chart
The following chart lists several common problems that could occur with your Ice Maker.
2.The Ice Maker’s water valve is equipped
with two strainers: a plastic basket type
and a wire-mesh screen. Both of these
can be cleaned by turning off the water
and disassembling the water valve (your
service center should be able to provide
this service). If local water conditions
require periodic cleaning, or if you use a
well as a water source, you should consider installing a second water strainer in
the water line. You can obtain a water
strainer from your local appliance dealer.
PROBLEM
One or more of the following sounds is
heard:
• Buzzing
• Trickling water
• Thud (clatter of ice)
Ice tastes stale.
Water in Ice Maker overflows.
Not enough ice.
Ice making has stopped.
CAUSE
The water valve is operating.
Water is entering the Ice Maker fill cup.
Ice is being dumped into the ice bin.
The ice is old. Make a new batch.
Refrigerator or Ice Maker is not level. If the Ice
Maker still overflows after leveling, turn off the
Ice Maker’s water supply at the shut-off valve,
and raise the Ice Maker’s bail arm to the “off”
position (see page 15); then contact your local
service center.
It will take 4 8 hours to fill the ice bucket. The ice
maker will make ice e very 2 to 3 hours. For more
ice, adjust the freezer control for a colder setting.
Be sure that the bail arm is lowered into the ice
bucket (see page 15).
Make sure that the water shut-off valve is on.
The water shut-off valve or the water valve
screen is clogged (contact your local service
center).