W&H 206, 209 Operator's Manual

WILLIAMS & HUSSEY MACHINE CO INC

MODEL 206 MOLDER

OPERATOR’S MANUAL

MANUAL NUMBER OM-99

ADDRESS; 70 Powers St, Milford NH 03055

[e-mail] www.williamsnhussey.com

1800 258 1380 603 732 0219 fax [phone]

Customer Service is available Monday-Friday, 8:30 AM- 4:30 PM EST

JULY 2010

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SPECIFICATIONS ACCESSORIES

MOTOR 2HP ELLIPTICAL JIG EJ-92

RPM 6900

FEED RATE 0-19FPM CRANK EXTENSION 54-306

MAX PROFILE DEPTH ¾”

MAX PROFILE WIDTH 6 ¾”

PLANING WIDTH 7”

MIN STOCK LENGTH 9”

MIN STOCK THICKNESS ¼”

MAX STOCK THICKNESS 8”

WORKING HEIGHT 35”

OVERALL HEIGHT 50”

OVERALL WIDTH 22”

OVERALL LENGTH 28”

BOXED WEIGHT 218#

SAFETY RULES

Your W&H Molder has been designed for maximum safety, however, as with all power tools; there is a
possibility of incident or injury to the operator. Therefore, it is imperative that this manual is completely read

and understood before using.

Use your W&H Molder with respect and caution. Following stated and inherent safety precautions will
considerably lessen the possibility of personal injury. If normal safety measures are not taken or are overlooked,
the possibility of incident rises tremendously. These safety measures are simple to follow, and the injuries that
could happen are not worth the few minutes saved by ignoring safety.

The W&H Molder was designed for specific applications. Do not modify or use the machine for any purpose
other than what this manual describes as its capabilities. Substituting a motor with a horsepower rating over
2HP constitutes a modification. Any modifications or improper use to the Molder-Planer may result in personal
injury, and will void the warranty. Please contact us if you are unsure about safety protocol before using the
machine.

2

SAFETY CHECK LIST DON’T TAKE UNNECESSARY RISKS!

Failure to read and apply manual instructions will cause poor performance, unnecessary repairs and

injury.

Wear safety glasses and use respiratory protection.

Disconnect the power before servicing or changing knives.

Wear footwear that does not slip. This will help you keep proper footing and balance. Always stand beside the

machine, never in the way of the in-feed and out-feed areas.

Keep knives sharp and clean.

Make sure the machine has proper grounding.

Make sure all guards are secured and in working order.

Remove all adjusting keys and wrenches before starting.

Check the stock for loose knots, nails, and foreign matter.

Keep the machine in a dry, clean, and well-lit area.

PREPARING TO USE THE MACHINE

1. Disconnect the power source while going through these procedures.

2. Check knives to ensure that the bolts are tight. If molding, set your guides for the stock path through the
knife area. If planing, you may or may not wish to set your guides. Many times, they are not needed in
planing.

3. When molding, the head scale setting must be set to within 3/16” of the height of your stock. The “0” on
your scale is set to the top of your GS-2 guide system sub-plate. This means you would set the machine
head reference to the scale at ¾” in order to take a full profile pass on a ¾” piece of stock. You could set
the machine head in reference to the scale at 15/16” for a maximum height first pass (3/4” + 3/16”). This
setting will provide the proper roller tension. Any other setting higher from the thickness of the stock
entering the machine is unacceptable and dangerous. See the molding section for more information.

4. The chip extractor loads first under the out-feed end of the head with a lip under the cast head. You then
finish by attaching the chip extractor with its pin. Make sure the pin is inserted all the way in until you
feel it “catch” on the spring-loaded catch.

5. Check rotational clearance of the knife with the chip extractor in place. Rotate the knife by hand at the
5” pulley cut out on the inner belt guard to ensure the knife area is clear.

6. Do not stand or let others stand in the out-feed area or directly in line with the in-feed of the machine.

7. With the head set in the proper position, tighten the head locking bolt firmly. This is essential for safety
and to ensure the machine head will stay where you have set it.

8. Test a piece of stock, with the machine off, to see if it will make contact with the in-feed roller.

3

VARI-FEED OPERATIONAL TIPS

The main control start button starts the knife motor and the Vari Feed motor. The speed control knob controls
the speed of the feed rollers.

The stock feed rate is approximately from 0 to 19 fpm (feet per minute), depending on where the knob is set.
Higher rates of feed are only recommended for lighter depths of cuts. Turn the knob clockwise to increase the
feed rate.

When the dial is in the 9 o’clock position the feed speed is approximately 4 fpm.
At the 12 o’clock position = approximately 6 fpm
At the 3 o’clock position = approximately 14 fpm
At the full to the right position = approximately 19 fpm

Always remember to set your stock rate prior to entering the stock into the machine. The feed rate may be
changed during the cut.

The vari-feed option allows for high feed rates on relief cuts on the backside of casings. The vari-feed multi­pass combination provides the versatility of slow feed rates on deep hardwood profiles making possible two or
three passes to finish.

On deep and wide profiles you can now raise the knife for a partial profile cut and enter the stock very slowly,
while engaging the butt into the knife gently, letting stock move under the out-feed roller before engaging a
higher feed rate. This reduces the incidence of a large chip out, a chatter mark or snipe on the first few inches
of your stock. You have the same advantages exiting the cut.

As the grain structure changes throughout the cut you can vary the stock feed rate to reduce the possibility of
chip outs and spoilage of your piece of stock.

Before starting the machine first familiarize yourself with the rest of this “Owners Manual”. It is very important
to safely operate the machine as outlined in this “Owners Manual”. Operate the machine only within the
described design intent.

Be sure you check for rotation direction before you use the machine. See the rotation illustration in the changing
knives section.

MOTOR LOCK

Your newly designed machine base has a motor lock. This new devise allows you to lock your motor in place to
keep it from bouncing on the belt during interrupted cuts etc. It also allows you to modify the belt tension which
can aid you in achieving the finish quality you are looking for.

To reduce tension you can crank the head down to within 1/4” of the actual setting you will use and lock your
motor. Then reset your head to the 1/4” lower running position and your tension will be reduced. You can vary
the 1/4” factor to achieve the tension you desire.

Always unlock the motor before resetting the machine head height.

4

CHANGING KNIVES DISCONNECT POWER BEFORE CHANGING KNIVES!

KNIFE

ARBOR

KNIFE BEVEL

INFEED SIDE

OUT-FEED SIDE

VIEW FROM PULLEY SIDE OF MACHINE

ROTATION

PLANER KNIVES

CAUTION; when planing always back off all four pressure screws to a position ¼” higher than the fully seated
position.You will create too much roller pressure and feeder problems if you don’t.

Remove the chip extractor by pulling out the pin and lifting the infeed end up first and pulling it back to clear
the lips hold. Clean off knives and machine arbor. Set one knife at a time in place against the lip of the arbor.
Place the “bevel” of the knife as shown in the illustration below. Tighten the eight bolts securely using a 7/32”
allen wrench. After tightening, double check to see that the knives are snug against the lip.

MOLDING KNIVES

Clean off knives and machine arbor. Set one knife at a time in place with
the bevel edge positioned as shown in the illustration below. Push the
knife firmly down against the arbor lip and sideways against the bolts in
the direction of the tube side of the machine. Hold secure while tightening
the bolts.

KNIFE SHARPENING

For fast and professional results with minimum edge loss, return your knives to the factory for re-sharpening.
Have your knives re-sharpened when you first notice some dullness. This gives optimal performance and
maximum life span out of the knives.

Molding knives should be surface ground on the face in pairs or the profiles should be
reground. Sometimes it is better to regrind the profile. If you send them to us for
regrinding we will use the best method that will prolong the use of your knives.
Planing knives may be ground on the surface or on the bevel.

Both molding and planing knives have an edge angle of 57 degrees measured off the
back of the knife.

Face of knife

Hook angle is 11 degrees

The use of dull knives will put a strain on the feed mechanism and will result in your need of a repair. Any
problems created due to the use of dull knives are not covered under the warranty.

HOW TO MOLD

You will normally use the guide sub-plate. When using the optional jig you will take it off. Always use your
sub-plate on any job where the knife is designed to cut below the bottom of the stock. This type of knife will hit
the base of the machine if a sub-plate is not used. An example of this situation would be the moulding of half or
quarter rounds.

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The “0” on your head setting scale references the top of the ½” sub-plate supplied with your machine. For
example if you were milling a ¾” piece of stock you would set the machine head at the ¾” setting. Adjusting
your machine head to this scale setting will give you a full pass cut and a completely finished profile. This is a
multi-pass machine and with multi-pass you can add 3/16”, in this example, to the 3/4” dimension for a first
pass setting of 15/16”. In this example you may set the machine head to any scale setting between 3/4” and
15/16” for a first pass. These settings allow you to achieve proper roller tension for holding the stock and
providing a safe operation.

Be sure to check for sufficient feed roller contact before proceeding to use this setup and be sure to rotate
your moulding knives to check for knife rotation clearance with the chip extractor installed and the power
off before starting the machine. Turn the knife arbor by turning the motor pulley at the inner guard opening.

Other moulding tips
Stock height should be within 3/16” of finished moulding size. If making one pass only it should be within
1/32”.

Stock width should be uniform and to finished moulding size. Saw ripping to width will not make the stock
uniform enough for smooth flow through the guides, and thus, will not result in a satisfactory molding. We
recommend that all stock be planed in both width and height to finished moulding size before setting up to do
the profile.

When tightening the knives, push them firmly against the lip and sideways against the bolts in the direction of
the tube side of the machine for an exact profile match up. Hold secure while tightening bolts.

Set the head height to within 3/16”of your stock height. This will give you proper roller tension on your
moulding stock. This is the correct way to mold. It is acceptable to leave 3/16” of the cut for multiple passes.
But for safety reasons leave no more than 3/16”.

On some extremely deep or wide cuts, some prior stock removal will be required before molding. You may
remove this stock using one of the rabbet/dado knives found in our catalog. You may also use a dado blade on a
table saw.

Failure to set your head height within 3/16” of the stock height will create an extreme safety hazard in that
possibly not enough roller pressure will be applied, or that no roller pressure at all will be applied.

Do not cut a wider stock area than the knife was designed to cut. This will cause excessive heat in the knife,
burn your stock and puts a harmful load on the feed system.

The roll pressure screws are set at maximum molding pressure from the factory. They are screwed into the head
as far as possible and the check nut is tightened.

When you use the machine for planing you will need to reduce the roller pressure. Loosen the pressure screw
lock nut and screw out each pressure to a setting ¼” higher than the fully seated position and retighten the lock
nut.

To change the molding knives, remove the chip extractor. Set one knife at a time in place with the bevel edge
toward the in-feed end of the machine. Firmly push the knife down against the arbor lip and sideways against
the bolts in the direction of the tube side of the machine. Hold secure while tightening bolts with a 7/32” allen
wrench or drive.

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GUIDES

Guiding your stock

Your machine comes with the GS-2 guide system, which includes a flex guide and a solid guide to guide, your
stock. To set these guides, first attach your knives to the knife arbor in the position you have chosen, often a
place where you can get the most out of your roller surfaces. Panel knives would go to the far right. Smaller
knives to the post side half of the mounting area and larger knives to the central positions.

Roll one knife down pointing to the machine bed and place a sample piece of stock you are going to mold on
the bed. Align the stock to the knife profile and carefully lower the machine head until the roller puts pressure
on your stock to hold it securely.

Attach your flex guide to the side of the profile that will cut the least deep into your stock. This will give the
longest possible life to your flex guide. The beveled portion of the guide should be facing the stock. Put about a
1/32” amount of pressure on the flex part of the guide. This will keep you stock from wandering within the
glide path. Pull the handles up and away from the stock path.

Attach your solid guide on the other side of the stock. Push it up firmly against the stock and tighten the
handles angling them away from the stock path.

Remove your set up piece of stock by raising the machine head, and pulling the stock out from the bed.

Your knives will usually cut into one or both guides. This is normal and expected. The guides are effective

and last a long time after being cut into many times.

As you become more familiar with the machine and its use, you will want to make

wooden guides to suit specific jobs. Always make a complete sample (top and
bottom) of crowns and keep sample to set up on.

Make your bottom cut first when milling bed and crown moldings. You may want

to add a key cut as a guiding mechanism for your top profile.

When planing the edge of stock, a high, square, relieved guide is needed in order

to have the edge reasonably square and to provide
stability. The center reliefs are to reduce friction.

Some profiles are too deep to make on the W&H. In some
cases you can rotate the profile into a flatter position to
effectively reduce the depth of cut. A “V block” guide
would be made to guide your stock. The profile knives
would have to be custom made to use in this V block
position.

When making tongue and groove stock, a serious and
detailed approach is needed in order to achieve a uniform fit. Carefully pre-inspect
your stock for cupping and warping. You need to plane all your stock to one uniform
size.

The guide thickness should be 3/8” thinner than your stock or your roller will scuff on the guides when the
stock has left the machine and the rollers are in their rest positions. When running thin stock you will need to
fasten a sub-plate between the guides to maintain a thick enough guide to control your stock.

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Always check your knife clearance to the guide. Clear away any interfering portion of the guide by gently
lowering your knife down into the guides to just below your running position.

MOLDING PICTURE FRAMES

Decide whether the rabbet or profile cut should be done first. If you are going to make the rabbet on the W&H
Molder, do the rabbet first. In order to utilize the W&H Molder for rabbets, a rabbet knife with a depth of cut
equivalent to the depth you need should be ordered. If we do not have a standard knife with the depth you seek,
we can make a special knife to suit your needs.

ROUND TOP CASINGSCONSTANT RADIUS SIZE ARCS

We manufacture knives with the profile cutting the deepest portion of the cut on the open side of the machine.
Notify us when you order a knife if you want the deep side of the cut on the vertical tube side of the machine.

The set up and operation of the W&H machine for a round top moulding job is very similar to the straight
moulding set up. One main difference is the moulding stock will ride piggybacked on a template to enable the
knife to clear the jig guiding hardware. Our EJ92 Elliptical Jig is not needed for a fixed, constant radius.

Stock preparation can be done in many ways. The following is one example.

First determine the angle needed to cut the wood sections in order to stay within the selected radius. Lay out the
wood sections by marking the angles while being careful to select cuts for grain structure and color. Cut the
sections and biscuit join them together with glue.

We made a fixture to band saw the inside and outside radii consisting of a pivot bar and bracket. We mounted
the pivot bar to the stock on the scrap portion of the inside radius. The pivot bar is drilled with numerous holes
to accommodate any radius sizes. You may also want to design a fine adjuster to allow you to make any radius
in between your adjusting holes. Make sure the outside radius is cut first.

The guides should be 20” long, which is the length of the GS2 guide system, or 14” long if you are just using
the bed of the machine. The guides may be made using the band saw set up. We make one guide for the inside
radius and one for the outside radius. We use MDF board.

ROUND TOP SETUP

1. Make sure power supply is disconnected

2. Raise the machine head and set the stock on the bed.

3. Align the stock with moulding profile.

4. Lower the head to pinch the stock.

5. Set the guides and clamp them in place.

6. Raise the machine head, remove the stock, and reset the head to within 3/16” of stock size. Check to see
that the rotating knife will not hit anything you don’t want it to on start up.

NEVER attempt closed loop molding. It is an unsafe procedure, you will not have enough roller pressure
initially.

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RAISED PANELS

All of our panel knives are designed to produce a ¼” tongue. Be sure to select a panel knife based on the
finished panel thickness. A panel must be 9” or more in the direction you are moulding in order to not have
the panel come off of one roller before it engages the second roller. When you use multiple passes you must
have at least 9” of panel remaining in the direction of the cut in order to have a least one roller on the panel at
all times.

If you desire a different tongue size or have a panel thickness other than ¾” or 5/8,” a special knife can be
ordered and shipped quickly by W&H.

THE RAISED PANEL SET UP

1. Disconnect the power supply.

2. Install your knives over toward the tube side of the machine allowing enough room to install your guide.

3. Index the knife arbor so the profile will be seen against the bed. Raise the head to allow the panel to be

laid on the bed and to be lined up with the profile visually.

4. Once you have found the proper position for the panel, lower the head so the rollers will put pressure on
the panel while butting the guide against the panel. Tighten your guide.

5. Raise the head, pull the panel out of the machine, and lower the head to within 3/16”of the panel height.
Rotate the blade arbor by hand to insure nothing is interfering with its rotational path.

6. Mould the panel cross grain ends first. Stand somewhere between the open side and in-feed side.

RAISED PANEL ISSUES

It takes some practice to make a good panel. It is helpful to keep a slight upward pressure on the panel as it is
being moulded with a steady pressure against the guide.

Because panels are normally larger than the 7” cutting capacity of the machine, the panel must pass beneath the
open side of the head. There is approximately 1/32” clearance between the top of the panel and the head of the
machine, provided the head is at stock size setting, and not below.

Many users try to create a slightly deeper cut to modify the tongue size or change the profile appearance and
end up dragging and pivoting the panel away from the guide path. The head must be set at the panel thickness
and not below it in order to have clearance to pass the panel through the machine in a satisfactory way.

HOW TO PLANE

CAUTION! When you use the machine as a planer you will need to back off all four pressure screws ¼” so

that you will not have too much roller tension, or you will risk shearing a pin in the large bronze worm gear.

Measure the thickness of your stock.

The amount of stock that is removable in one pass is dependent on the density of the wood (relative hardness),
how wide the cut is, and the moisture content of the stock.

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GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR DEPTH OF CUT

THICKNESS TYPE OF WOOD DEPTH OF

CUT
1” Poplar ¼”
1” Red Oak 3/16”
3” White Pine 3/16”
3” White Oak 1/8”
6” Poplar 1/8”
6” Red Oak 1/16”

See the table of contents section for knife changing and installation.

Loosen the planing head locking knob (54-21). To initially begin planing, set the head position to a height 1/32”
less than the dimension of the stock entering the machine. One-third of a turn on the elevating handle will equal
1/32”. Tighten the head locking knob.

Make sure the chip extractor is in place, the front lip engaged into the head and the pin is firmly seated.

Utilize a high, square, relieved guide when planing the edge of stock to ensure the edge will be reasonably
square. A relief in the vertical wall of the guide reduces friction. See the guide section for a picture of the edge
guides.

THREAD LOCKING INFORMATION

A medium strength thread-locking compound used on some parts prone to loosen with vibration.
Use two drops on the thread area of the parts listed below.
P-122 post side axle.
54-16 Rest pins.
54-15 Pivot screws.
A small tube of thread locker is available for purchase. Part number P-242
Do not use on P-124 in-feed axle, or on P-224, out-feed axle.

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CHATTER

Definition

Chatter marks are irregularities in the finish
quality of the surface of the wood. They can be
evenly spaced or randomly distributed. Simply
put, they may be described as “hills and valleys”
in the wood surface.

Cause

These marks are caused by either loosely held
stock or by an imbalance in the machine’s
mechanical qualities

Solutions

The most common cause of poor
stock finish quality is a rough running
belt. Replace the belt.

Make sure you are cutting with the
head set at the appropriate height.

Keep your knives sharp. Dull knives
cause intermittent feeding.

Check the pulleys for damage or
imbalance.

Check to see that both knives and all
attaching bolts are of the same
weight.

SNIPE

Definition

Snipe is generally an unwanted undercut in the stock. It occurs in the
first and last few inches of the stock length. It causes a different
height dimension than what was selected for the stock.

Causes

The stock may be cupped, warped or twisted.

The stock experiences a change in down pressure as the out feed
roller engages the stock, and when the stock disengages with the in
feed roller.

The stock may enter or exit the machine on an angle because it is
either being fed from a higher or lower plane than the bed, or it is
exiting to a higher or lower plane.

Solutions

Use a jointer to flatten cupped, warped,
or twisted stock.

Butt stock pieces tight end to end.

Put a slight upward pressure on the
exposed end of the stock during both the
in feed and out feed stroke.

Use slightly longer stock length than
needed and cut the snipe off.

Make sure the head locking handle is
tight.

Your outboard support should be
slightly higher than your bed.

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FEEDING PROBLEMS

Make sure that power is disconnected before inspecting machine.

SYMPTOM SOLUTION

The stock stops but the feed-rollers

continue to turn.

This is a traction or friction problem.

1) Make sure your stock is not binding in
the guides.

2) Make sure the stock is of consistent
width. Saw ripping is inadequate.

3) Make sure stock is the proper width for
the knife profile.

4) Make sure the head is set at the correct
height.

5) Check the rollers to see if they have a
glossier than normal build-up. Clean the
gloss or pitch build up off the rollers.

6) Make sure adequate spring pressure is
being applied to the rollers.

7) Check the base or bed for rust or scars.

8) Replace worn rollers.

One roller stops while the other continues

to operate.

Both rollers will not turn Check for a blown fuse in the Vari-Feed

Check for a loose set screw on one of the
two chain sprockets involved with the roller
that won’t operate.

control. The armature fuse is a 2 amp fuse,
and the line fuse is a 5 amp fuse. Both fuses
are ¼”x1 ¼”

The motor electrical plug may not be fully
engaged in its receptacle.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR REMOVAL OF FEED ROLLER

12

Unplug machine, Take off chip deflector, raise head, and remove pressure screws over swing arm.
Remove two 54-15 pivot screws and remove swing arm, leaving chain connected to mating sprocket.
Reinstall each pivot screw with a drop of medium strength thread locker.

Take the sprocket off the swing arm axle by putting the feed roller in a vise. Use a couple of small
adjustable wrenches attached to the flat on the long axle to loosen it.

Put a good square shank flat bladed screw driver into the slot on the short axle. Push in as hard as you can
while using a wrench on the square shank of the screw driver to loosen the short axle. Sometimes this axle
will not come out. Hack saw it off if it won’t. If you need to save the roller, pull the roller out of the swing
arm by lifting it up and pulling it out with the short axle still in the roller. Reset the roller in a vise and use a
small pipe wrench to remove it from the roller.

REASSEMBLY The rollers are constructed with a shallow hole in one end and a deeper hole in the other.
The P-122 post side axle always goes in the short end. Reinstall the P-122 axles with two drops of medium
strength thread locker on the thread portion. Do not use thread lock on P-124 or P-224.
The longer axle goes in the deeper end. See drawing for swing arm assembly with roller.

POSITION OF SPROCKETS First position feed motor shaft sprockets with hubs facing in toward chain guard..
The first sprocket slides up to the end of the flat on the motor shaft and the second right up against the first.
Chains should (under load) run in a straight line from these sprockets to the roller sprockets. Adjust the roller
sprockets to achieve this alignment. Feed roller sprockets should be positioned based on the feed motor
sprockets already positioned. The chains should run in a straight line from the feed motor sprockets to the roller
sprockets when the machine is under load.

13

MACHINE EXPLODEDVIEW

the machine as you tighten it using up the attaching bolt hole clearance for adjustment. This should give
you the optimum chain tension and slack.

When
reinstalling
the vari feed
unit after a
repair check

the chains
for proper
tension. The

short in feed
chain should
have a small
amount of
slack in it and
the long out
feed chain
should have
plenty of
slack. This is
the correct
setting. To
obtain the
correct
setting, in
most cases,
you would
push the unit
toward the in­feed end of

14

VARI-FEED VIEW

VF-100 assembly

Does not include roller sprockets and chains

VF-1 Vari-Feed motor

VF-2 REV A Aluminum motor mount

VF-3 Roller sprockets,14 tooth

VF-4 Short chain, 36 pitch

VF-5 Long chain, 54 pitch

VF-9 REV A Chain guard

VF-12 REV A Motor sprockets, 17 tooth

Vari-Feed Removal

Loosen the set screw on the in-feed roller chain sprocket. Loosen and remove the (2) hex head bolts,
and (1) socket head bolt holding the chain guard to the machine head. As you pull the unit free, pull
off the in-feed chain sprocket you loosened. To remove the motor from the motor mount and chain
guard, remove the two motor shaft chain sprockets and loosen and remove (4) socket head cap
screws that are in a rectangular pattern surrounding the motor gear housing. To disassemble the
motor mount from the chain guard remove the two remaining socket head cap screws with nuts.

UNDERSIDE VIEW OF SPROCKETS AND CHAINS

Out-feed
VF-3 14 tooth sprocket
VF-5 chain

(2) 17 tooth
sprockets
VF-12 REV A

In-feed
VF-3 14 tooth sprocket
VF-4 chain

15

ARBOR REMOVAL VIEW

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CONTACT INFORMATION

Williams & Hussey Machine Co., Inc. [e-mail] (e-mail)
70 Powers Street
Milford NH 03055 williamsnhussey.com (website)

603-732-0219 (local) Business Hours: Monday – Friday
800-258-1380 (toll free) 8:30 am – 4:30 pm
603-732-4048 (fax)

WARRANTY INFORMATION

Molder – 7 Year Limited

Williams & Hussey Machine Co., Inc. warrants its molders for a period of seven years from the original date of
purchase.

WHAT IS COVERED?

The warranty covers any defects in workmanship or materials.

WHAT IS NOT COVERED?

The warranty does not cover damage due to; modifications, misuse, improper maintenance, normal wear, wood
jams or using a knife motor with a horse power rating over 2HP.

WHO IS COVERED?

The warranty covers the initial purchaser only.

LIMITATIONS ON WARRANTY

Williams & Hussey shall in no event be liable for death, injuries to persons or property, or for incidental,
contingent, special, or consequential damages arising from the use of our products.

Motors - 2 year Limited

Warranty covers any defects in workmanship or materials on original parts. Warranty does not cover defects
due directly or indirectly to misuse, abuse, negligence or accidents, normal wear-and-tear, lack of maintenance,
or improper repair or alteration.

Controls & Elliptical Jig - 1 year Limited

Same as motors.

VF-104 and VF-106

Refer to applicable motor and control warranties.

AUTHORIZATION FROM WILLIAMS & HUSSEY IS REQUIRED

BEFORE ITEMS ARE BETURNED FOR EVALUATION.

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