Efficient performance of any machine tool is
the right combination of:
1) Machine, matched to the work load.
2) Tooling, matched to the work piece.
3) Operator, trained and conscientious.
W. F. Wells provides the machine tool.
Consult a reliable blade supplier for the
proper tooling, matched to the work piece.
Operators must not use this machine without
first reading through the manuals in this
binder. The time it takes will be more than
made up in man hours and machine
down-time saved.
This manual, together with other manuals in
this binder, explains installation, operation
and maintenance of W. F. Wells Model
F-1620-A CNC automatic band saw machine
tool. The purpose is to thoroughly familiarize
operators with proper procedures to get the
best performance and dependability from the
machine tool.
As soon as any machine arrives on the
receiving dock, give it a thorough visual
inspection to assure no damage occurred
during transport.
Normally, if the machine crating is in good
condition the machine is in good condition.
If the shipping crate shows damage or signs
of repair, note it on the waybill. Uncrate and
inspect the machine while the driver is still at
the dock, or refuse it.
II INSTALLATION
Give careful consideration to the machine
installation site.
The plant engineer must establish work flow
to and from the machine. The machine must
be level and anchored for proper, efficient,
trouble free operation.
The operator must have room to perform his
job safely. The work area must be
uncluttered and well-lighted. Maintain
temperature in the machine area at a level to
provide maximum operator comfort. If it is
not, machine operators will compensate in
clothing or move about, creating a condition
of hazard.
A. Site Preparation.
See the contents page for the machine floor
layout print, with recommended anchoring
procedure.
Establish machine location in relation to
material handling work flow to the machine
and related production functions.
Recommended anchoring procedure is
anchor bolts set in concrete and the machine
set over the anchor bolts, through holes in
the machine base.
1. Establish the intersection of the
machine blade line of travel to the stationary
vise line according to the plant engineer's
layout and prepare the foundation.
2. If adequate foundation exists, lay
out anchor bolt locations with 12" long cross
lines and drill anchor bolt holes into the
concrete 6-8" deep and 4-6" in diameter.
See the contents page for optional
equipment and prepare anchoring the entire
assembly as one unit.
3. Place the recommended bolt and
sleeve assembly in the hole with bolt threads
centered on the cross lines and extending
above the floor line sufficient to receive the
machine base. Fill around the assembly with
grout or concrete. The shoulder of the
sleeve must be at the floor line, allowing for
later bolt to hole alignment. Allow concrete to
cure fifteen days before machine installation.
B. Machine Assembly.
1. Place steel plate on the foundation
in screw jack locations.
Turn screw jacks on the four outside corners
of the machine base down for leveling. Turn
the center jacks up, out of the way.
4
2. Set the sawing unit frame over the
anchor bolts in the foundation, screw jacks
on the steel plate.
Vise Cylinders
The saw and barfeed cylinders have been
removed for shipping. The following
information is for both cylinders.
Attach the cylinder to the machine
using four 3/8-16 x 1" hex head screws. The
cylinders should be marked “saw bed” or
“barfeed” respectively. The saw vise cylinder
has the emergency stop bracket bolted to it.
To attach the coupling to the end of
the cylinder rod.Raise the saw head.
Slide the vise assembly to the end of the
bed. Tighten the cylinder rod to the coupling
using a 7/8" wrench on the cylinder rod flats
and a 1½” wrench (or Channel Locks) on the
coupling.
See maintenance section IV, page 12.
2. Electric hook-up. See maintenance
section IV, page 21, and motor rotation
direction after hook-up.
D. Leveling and Anchoring.
This machine must be level for precision sawing. Unauthorized moving or
bumping the machine alters the setup,
causing inaccurate sawing. Level the ma
chine. Flat material, laid across the optional
infeed conveyor, barfeed carriage and
machine bed up to the blade line must be flat
with no gaps between the material and the
machine. A machine not being level is a
major cause of getting crooked cuts.
See part "A," site preparation, for proper
foundation.
Use steel plate under each leveling screw
jack to prevent the jacks from drilling into
concrete during years of use.
Connect the hydraulic hoses to the
cylinder.
Emergency Stop Cable
The emergency stop cable is an
added safety feature. It is designed to
protect the operator, or any body who comes
close to the machine, from being pinched or
crushed by the moving barfeed.
Run the red cable though the two
pulleys on the back of the machine and
connect it to the bracket on the end of the
saw vise cylinder.
Remove any slack and tighten the cable.
Pull the cable to make sure it is working.
Push the reset button on the cable switch to
reactivate the feature.
C. Pre-operation Check-out.
Do not attempt to operate this machine
before completing the pre-operation
check-out.
1. Remove support blocks in the saw
bed to assure an accurate level reading.
2. Spread the guide arms and open
the vise jaws.
Place an accurate machine level on the saw
bed between the vise jaws. Lower the high
end of the saw bed. Use only the outside
four corner screw jacks for leveling.
3. Use a straightedge, with level on
top, along the infeed table roller surface and
saw bed. Bring the table to level with the
saw bed.
4. Run the level out over the infeed
table. Bring the table to level with the saw
bed.
5. Check all level readings. Turn
screw jacks between the outside four corner
jacks fully down on steel plate for even
weight distribution.
1. Check fluid levels and filters.
6. Tighten all screw jack lock nuts and
5
check all level readings.
7. Tighten nuts on the anchor bolts
through the saw frame.
7. Keep hands away from the blade
after it is installed.
B. Operator Controls.
8. Dam around each screw jack and
pour grout up to the base of the machine to
prevent shifting.
III SAFETY and OPERATION
Few safety devices benefit the careless
worker. Safety is an attitude either accepted
or rejected by the operator.
A. Safety.
For the operator who abides by his local
shop safety practices add the following,
applying to this machine.
1. Lock or tag out the electric disconnect during routine maintenance.
2. Replace guards and safety devices
removed during maintenance, before returning the machine to service.
3. A qualified assistant operator need
not be at the controls of this machine when
the regular operator is not. Authorize other
workers in the area to shut down the
machine with the Emergency Stop control in
the event of conditions of hazard.
CNC SAW OPERATION
The following is a quick start guide to begin
cutting material within minutes after applying
machine power. This machine is designed
using state of the art technology for high
quality cut parts. The color touch screen
offers simple operation with operator
prompts and diagnostics directing new and
experienced operators like no other sawing
machine. Most screens have help pages
associated with them for new operators that
provide the necessary information to operate
the machine without the written manual. The
attached manual provides advanced help
and documentation to assist the touch
screen prompts and help pages. All faults
and prompts are logged with time and date
stamps to trace machine operation history.
More to follow in the operation manual.
1.) After wiring the machine, leveling,
connecting the vise cylinders, and turning
on the disconnect, the machine is ready to
operate.
2.) Push the hydraulic start. The machine
hydraulics will start. Be sure the E-stop is
pulled out and the stop cable is reset.
4. Do not allow casual climbing or
leaning on the machine. Slippery coolant
covered surfaces are not detected until too
late to prevent the slip.
5. Wear heavy protective gloves
during blade change for positive control of
the blade.
Guard against all other body
contact with
the blade. Never wear gloves while
operating this or any machine tool.
6. Always wear eye protection
when operating this equipment.
6
3.) The home carriage screen will appear
after the hydraulics start. Move the carriage
forward until the “home OK” appears.
4.) Put the blade on the machine and then
tension it.
5.) The machine is now ready to make a
manual cut or an automatic cut. The
operator prompts and help screens will guide
from this point as well as the following
detailed instructions.
Note: The pages after page 20 in this
manual show each touch screen and contain
the help screen for each as well. The
operator should look at each screen and
read the help instructions before operation.
The green dot on the blade tension dial is
reference for proper blade tension.
The needle must always be at the green dot
during sawing to maintain blade tension.
See page 17 to adjust blade tension to blade
manufacturer specifications.
Cutting force dial is reference for blade force
important factor.
For fast, smooth sawing and lower cost per
cut, request a reliable blade supplier make
test cuts on the machine and the work piece
with his recommended blades.
Normally a thin section of work requires a
light sawing force and a wide section greater
force.
However, as the blade guides spread wider
for bigger stock, a longer distance between
the guides, the blade loses some of its
rigidity, or blade beam strength.
On wide stock use a lighter sawing force and
use only new blades which require less force
to make a satisfactory cut. Applying more
sawing force to penetrate a wide work piece
causes blade run out--a crooked cut in the
work piece.
As blades dull sawing wide work, replace
them with a sharp blade.
Set dulled blades aside for sawing smaller
work where the short span between the
guides provides greater saw blade beam
strength, rigidity, and makes cuts within
tolerance. Follow blade manufacturer
instructions for breaking in a new blade.
For more details on sawing force, see Blade
Selection Manual 900409 in this binder.
against the work piece.
Turn the sawing force control right or left to
increase or decrease sawing force on the
work piece.
Two metering valves, one in each guide arm
just above the blade, monitor the sawing
force.
Carefully determine sawing force. It is a very
Saw head approach feed control adjusts saw
head feed down to the work piece.
This control valve fully closed, the saw head
will not move.
The control fully open, the saw head will
come down at it's top speed. At the point the
blade contacts the work piece and begins
sawing, the dual hydraulic sawing force
system takes over.
Guide Arm Positioning.
When positioning the blade guide arm make
certain the area under both arms is clear of
obstruction.
The right guide arm and vise jaw stay at the
right side of the saw bed, next to the drive
wheel.
The left guide arm and vise jaw adjust to
work piece size.
7
For maximum safety and for support of the
blade while sawing, move the left guide arm
close to, but not touching the left vise jaw.
Allow a half inch extra space to open the
vise jaw.
To move the guide arm, loosen the hand
lever above the guide arm, releasing the
clamp. Slide the arm to place and tighten
the hand lever.
C. Operating Sequence.
Do not operate this machine before studying
manuals in this binder.
Follow the sequence closely, so it is
automatic as you become familiar with the
machine.
Blade installation procedure is in the maintenance section under mechanical
adjustments.
1. Move the blade guide arm far left.
2. Set all controls to Off, Stop and Manu-
al.
3. Switch on the electric disconnect.
4. Start the hydraulic pump.
5. Raise the saw head.
6. Tension the saw blade.
7. Adjust the machine to the work per
part "B", clearance for blade and guide arm,
number of pieces, length and any optional
equipment.
8. Open the vises.
9. Switch the machine mode to manual.
and select "Off" on their respective switches.
If an outboard vise or a holddown is used,
and the trim-cut material is too short to
clamp, leave the outboard selectors in the
"Off" position until the Auto cycle pushes the
stock out from under the holddown. Then
select "Clamp".
12. Start the saw blade and adjust blade
speed for the work piece.
13. Adjust sawing force and close the
feed control valve.
14. Press the saw head feed control and
open the approach feed control valve slightly
to feed the blade into the work piece slowly.
15. Monitor the chips, thin and curled.
Adjust the sawing force.
16. Switch the barfeed control from
Manual to Auto while making the first trim
cut. The machine can be placed in Auto
mode operation from a stand still by:
A) Selecting "Auto" on the mode switch.
B) Clamping the saw vise.
C) Starting the blade.
D) Pushing "Cutting Head Lower". The ma-
chine will now cycle automatically.
10. Move the work piece under the blade
for a trim cut.
11. Adjust clamping force for the work
piece and clamp the vise jaws. If there are
selectors for optional holddowns or for an
outboard vise, select "Clamp" on the selector
switch to enable them for automatic operation. If any of the outboard vises or
holddowns are not being used, manually
move them to a position as to not interfere
with the automatic operation of the machine,
8
17. The machine will automatically saw
and feed a pre-set number of pieces, or, the
out of stock limit switch senses the end of
stock passing through the barfeed. One or
the other will shut down the machine.
If the 2 or 3 stroke option is used, a short
delay will be noticed while the carriage vise
is clamping. This allows time for the out of
stock limit to be made.
If the counter, or limit switch are not used
and manual shut down is necessary, turn the
mode selector to "Manual". This locks out all
cycles except the saw head. The saw will
complete the cut, return to the raised
position and the system will shut down, just
as the machine functions with a manual cut.
18. Open the vise jaws and move the
work as necessary.
weld. Automatic blade welders will get out of
adjustment, or an inexperienced welder
operator may improperly anneal the weld.
If this is not the problem, see the maintenance section on sawing force and blade
wheel alignment.
19. Shut down the machine with the
Emergency Stop control.
D. Trouble Shooting.
Common band sawing problems listed
here give instructions for correcting the
problem.
Consider a problem carefully.
Get at the underlying cause of a problem
rather than remedy a series of side effects.
1. Scale on the work piece.
Hot-rolled steel will have a degree of mill
scale. On low carbon steel the scale does
not affect sawing rates, but the scale dulls
the saw blade teeth. Remove scale from the
sawing area.
2. Hard surfaces.
Torch cutting and improper grinding some
steel creates a case-hardened shell a few
thousandths of an inch thick. Sawing
through it will dull saw blade teeth. Saw and
change blades as they dull is the only solution, until the hardened area saws through.
3. Crooked sawing.
If a new blade saws crooked, or begins to
saw straight but after several cuts starts to
saw crooked and results are worse with each
cut, see the above paragraphs, the blade
selection manual and the maintenance
section on sawing force.
A machine not being level is a major cause
of getting crooked cuts. See leveling and
anchoring section, page 4, for more
information.
4. Broken blades.
Check to see if blades are breaking at the
5. Stripped teeth.
This is usually caused by improper sawing
force and blade speed.
See the blade selection manual, and the
maintenance section for a sawing force
check.
6. Poor blade life.
Blade speed too fast for the work piece is
the usual cause of poor blade life. See paragraphs 1 and 2 in this section.
7. Erratic saw head feed.
Uncontrollable saw head feed into the work
piece can be:
a) Defective blade welding, defective weld
grinding, blade teeth points stripped or
wrong blade for the work piece.
b) Lubrication, section IV.
c) Leveling and anchoring, sec. II.
d) Blade guide clearance, blade linkage or
metering valve. See maintenance section IV.
e) If erratic feed is still a problem, look for
brass frame thrust screw excessive wear.
Brass marks front and back of the left post
the saw head rides on, or brass dust at the
base of the post means the machine is not
level, or thrust screws are too tight against
the post.
1) Loosen lock nuts holding the thrust
screws, front and back of the left post frame.
Remove the thrust screws.
2) File the post contour from the face of the
9
thrust screws.
3) Turn the rear screw in first, bringing it up
to the column. Push gently on the frame to
feel contact with the post.
4) Hold the frame with the rear screw
against the post. Turn the front screw to the
post, lightly, then back it off cTH turn. c
TH
turn is the required .008 clearance between
the post and screws in the frame.
5) Tighten the lock nuts and check the saw
head for smooth feed.
8. Saw head stall.
If the blade comes to the work piece and
starts the cut but seems to float without
sawing, check the following malfunctions.
a) Make sure the blade is sharp, and the
proper blade for the work piece. Too much
sawing force applied to a small tooth blade
on a wide work piece fills saw tooth gullets
before the blade clears the work piece to
empty the gullets.
Chips locked in the tooth gullet, still in the
blade kerf, force teeth tips up away from the
cut, causing the blade to float through the
kerf. Change the blade to one with fewer
teeth and larger gullets, or use less sawing
force to form smaller chips, at the risk of
heating the blade to the point of hardening
the work piece.
will not move, or come down only slowly.
See the maintenance section for a blade
guide inspection.
e) Silt will by-pass a plugged hydraulic fluid
filter and accumulate in the metering valve.
Check the hydraulic fluid reservoir for a
milky-white color. Water or coolant in the
fluid will contaminate the entire system.
See hydraulic fluid level and sawing force in
the maintenance section.
9. Saw blade stall.
If the blade jams in the cut it is either the
wrong blade for the work piece, too much
sawing force for the blade or blade tension is
improper.
Correct the sawing practice.
Wait five minutes and press the motor starter
reset control. If the blade stalls with the
motor running, shut the machine down. Free
the blade from the kerf and tension the blade
properly. Rotate the work piece a few
degrees so the blade will not hang up in the
same kerf.
10. All system stall.
The hydraulic pump motor is thermal overload protected to shut down the system if the
motor overheats. Let the motor cool five
minutes and press the reset control. Also
see electric maintenance section "D."
b) Monitor the sawing force.
Use only 30 to 50 pounds of sawing force
and use the proper blade for the work piece.
c) Look for a hydraulic line kink from the
blade guides back to the control console,
limiting hydraulic fluid flow from the metering
valve to the control valve.
d) Look for dirt lodged in the blade guides,
preventing the metering valve from functioning. Keep the guides clean. Dirt and chips
blocking the metering valve linkage forces
the metering valve closed and the saw head
10
11. Saw head drift.
It is normal for the saw head to drift down
while sitting idle for a time.
Remove all work from the vise jaws, tools
and other material from the work bed at the
end of each shift.
Unauthorized machine use or drift down, the
blade coming into contact with material left in
its path, may destroy the blade and the
material.
IV MAINTENANCE
To assure smooth running machinery and
save hours of downtime and repair costs
follow inspection, adjustment, lubrication and
maintenance outlined here.
Check that all machine cycles function
through completion, not partly blocked.
A. Lubrication.
The lubrication chart in the back of this
manual depends on shop conditions and machine use.
1. Fluid levels and filters.
Routinely check fluid levels and filters. Lock
or tag out the electric disconnect switch.
a) Hydraulic fluid.
Check the fluid level with the saw head lowered and the machine turned off. Fluid showing in the screen, ½" to 1" from the top of the
top is proper level. Bring the fluid level up to
the this level with Mobil DTE-24.
Low fluid level allows air to enter the pump,
causing dieseling, cavitation and a ruined
pump.
Dirty hydraulic fluid is usually because the
reservoir filler cap is not in place.
Dirty hydraulic fluid causes valves to stick
and orifices to plug. Machine adjustments to
improve poor sawing will constantly change.
If hydraulic fluid inspection reveals dirt, or is
milky-white with water or coolant, contamination is in all lines and cylinders. Break primary connections and blow out the lines. Drain
and rinse the reservoir twice with fuel oil.
Swab out the reservoir and fill it with clean
fluid. Change the hydraulic fluid filter cartridge.
Activate all cycles several minutes to flush
out the machine.
Repeat the process five times, or until there
is no dirt or discoloration in the hydraulic
fluid.
Change the filter cartridge again.
Install a chain and lock on the reservoir filler
neck and cap.
Hydraulic fluid temperature over 130° is a
malfunction.
Check the fluid level.
Check the fluid for proper viscosity.
b) Hydraulic fluid filter.
Original equipment hydraulic fluid filter
cartridge (part number 911231) furnished
with this machine is a spin-on type with a
classification of three micron, absolute,
filtering .003 contamination out of the
system.
Replacing the filter cartridge with a rating
greater than three micron, ten micron for
instance is a popular filter, will downgrade the system and life expectancy of
the machine.
Change the filter cartridge once a year
(2,000 hours) for a trouble-free operation.
Locate the filter cartridge mounted inside the
lower front panel of the operators console.
Unscrew and discard the contaminated filter
and gasket. Check the gasket on the new
filter cartridge for damage. Wipe a thin film
of fresh fluid on threads and gasket of the
new cartridge and turn it on the filter system,
hand tight only. Make certain the cartridge
bottoms out on the filter system head.
c) Gear case oil.
See the contents page for the drive gear
reducer bulletin.
NOTE: Drain the blade drive reducer case
after the first 80 hour run-in period.
Flush the case with a light flushing oil. Filter
the old oil, or replace it with fresh oil.
Each 2,000 hours of operation drain the
reducer cases, flush, and fill with fresh oil.
Check gear case fluid levels at the sight
glass on the front of the case or pipe plug at
the side of the gear case, or oil standing in
the filler elbow. With the machine shut down
oil must be visible in the filler elbow, or seep
out the loosened pipe plug.
Add fresh oil as necessary to bring the level
up.
W. F. Wells and Cone Drive-Textron use and
recommend using only Mobil SHC-634
11
synthetic oil.
It is normal for gear reducers to operate at
housing temperatures up to 200 degrees.
Keep finned areas on the case clean to allow
maximum heat dissipation.
Keep breather plugs on top of the cases
clear of dirt to avoid gear case oil
contamination.
B. Coolant Fluids and Pump.
Caution: During machine set up and trial
running fill the coolant tray. Coolant fluid is a
heat sink for the pump and it must not be
operated unless the coolant tank is full of
coolant. Routinely clean the coolant tray and
pump screens. A blocked screen will stall
the pump. A damaged screen allows chips
to block or enter the pump chamber, ruining
the pump within minutes.
This machine has a 15 gallon coolant tray
capacity.
Consider coolant type and machine use
before filling the tray. Some fluids
deteriorate more rapidly than others. The
work piece and the blade determine
coolant/lubricant type.
There are coolant fluids and there are cutting
fluids.
Faster blade speeds require efficient coolant
to prevent saw blade overheating.
Increased tool surface speed makes the
cutting edge run hot. Without proper coolant
blade metal temperature passes critical at a
given point. Blade teeth soften and dull.
1. Straight cutting oil.
Slow blade speeds for hard metals and saw
blades that remove a large chip from the
work piece require more coolant/lubricant.
At these slow speeds high lubricity straight
cutting oil is popular.
Do not use straight cutting oil in this machine
unless factory labels clearly show machine
equipment includes oversize coolant pump,
lines and nozzles.
2. Water soluble oils.
Water soluble oils offer good cooling as well
as good lubrication.
Use one part oil to fifteen parts water for
most steels.
Use one-to-one water and soluble oil for tool
steel sawing.
This machine can use this fluid.
3. Synthetic oils.
Synthetic oils, without chemical solution, are
similar to water soluble oil capability and
dependability and used in the same manner.
Use one part oil to fifteen parts water for
aluminum sawing. A drawback to some
synthetic oils is animal fat in the formula
which deteriorates in time, and at high
temperatures, causing a breakdown of the
fats, creating an unpleasant odor.
This machine can use this fluid.
4. Chemical solutions.
Some cooling/cutting fluid used in high
speed aluminum machining and freemachining alloys contain chemical wetting
agents.
The application is useful but side effects are
harmful to the work piece and the machine.
Do not use chemical coolant in this machine
unless factory labels clearly show machine
equipment includes corrosion resistant
pump, hoses, seals and paint.
C. Mechanical.
1. Blade installation.
WARNING: Do not install a blade on this
machine before completing the pre-operation
check-out.
See the Saw Blade Selection and
Application manual to select the proper
blade for the work piece.
For maximum feed, speed and blade life,
request a reliable blade supplier conduct test
sawing with his recommended blades on the
machine and the work piece.
a) Start the hydraulic pump and release
12
blade tension.
b) Raise the saw head so the guide arms
clear the vise jaws.
c) Lock or tag out the electric
disconnect switch. Always disconnect
power before touching the blade or
opening the wheel covers.
d) Open the blade wheel guard doors.
Blade wheels rotate counterclockwise as
seen from the operator's console, drawing
blade teeth through the work piece from left
to right against the stationary vise. Wear
heavy gloves for positive control of the
blade. Hold the blade in front of the wheels
with teeth pointing to the back of the
machine. Teeth on the lower blade loop must
angle right, toward the drive wheel.
If teeth on the lower loop point to the back of
the machine but angle left, toward the
tension wheel, the band is inside out.
Reverse it.
For safety, clear personnel from the area.
Loop the band over a handy guard post or
trash barrel. Twist the band, as far around
the circumference as necessary, until the
band snaps over.
e) Again, hold the blade in front of the
wheels with teeth pointing to the back of the
machine. Teeth on the lower loop must angle
right, toward the drive wheel.
f) Place the top of the loop over the frame
posts, into the blade guard channel, and
onto the wheels.
Pull the back of the band up next to the
wheel flanges.
g) Start the machine and jog the tension
control just enough to take up slack in the
band. Shut down the machine.
This machine is equipped with door interlock
safety switches. The blade cannot be started
with the blade guard doors open.
h) Open the blade guides with the thumb
lever cap screws in the face of the guides.
One guide at a time, grasp the blade firmly
each side of the guide, twist the teeth down
and bring the back edge of the blade up
between the guide blocks.
i) Tighten the thumb lever cap screws in
the guides, check that the back of the blade
is next to the wheel flange.
j) Close the blade guard doors.
Start the machine and run the blade 30
seconds.
k) Shut down the machine.
Check that the back of the blade is close to,
but not scrubbing on the wheel flanges.
.010" to .030" clearance is ideal. Check
blade tension before each saw cut.
2. Blade wheel alignment.
Wheel alignment is not part of a routine
machine setup for a sawing operation.
Factory-aligned, inspected and tested
wheels, blade and guides require no
maintenance.
The usual cause of misalignment is
experimenting or bumping the wheels or
guides with the work piece or material
handling equipment.
Routinely check the wheel flanges for wear.
Be alert to audible and visual changes in
machine operation. A high-pitched metal-tometal scrubbing sound coming from the
wheel guard doors is the back of the blade
scrubbing on the wheel flange. The blade
will wear the flange from the wheel before
the blade breaks.
When checking wheel alignment use only a
new blade, known to be straight. A used
blade may have developed a camber,
making results of an adjustment useless.
To inspect the wheel flanges or to adjust
either wheel, raise the saw head so the
wheel guard doors clear the control console.
Release blade tension and lock or tag out
the electric disconnect switch.
13
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