Westerbeke W-13, W-13A Service Manual

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SERVICE MANUAL

2&3-CYLINDER MARINE DIESEL ENGINES & GENERATORS

2-CYLINDER MODELS
Fngines Gene erators
Linginiou 60 Hz 50 Hz
W-13 WMD 4.4 WMD 3.3
W-13A 4.4 BCD 3.3 BCD
3-CYLINDER MODELS
Engines Generators
60 Hz 50 Hz
W-18 WMD 6.0 WMD 4.5
W-18 6.0 BCD 4.5 BCD
W-21 WMD 7.7 WMD 5.8
WMD 8.0 WMD 6.0
W-21A 8.0 BTD 6.0 BTD
RD-60
35B THREE 10.0 BTD 7.5 BTD

PUBLICATION NO. 43444 1st Edition / April 1999

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CALIFORNIA

PROPOSITION 65 WARNING

Diesel engine exhaust and some of its constituents are known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and other reproductive harm.

Exhaust gasses contain Carbon Monoxide, an odorless and colorless gas. Carbon Monoxide is poisonous and can cause unconsciousness and death. Symptoms of Carbon Monoxide exposure can include:

  • Dizziness
  • Nausea
  • Headache
  • Throbbing in Temples
  • Muscular Twitching Vomiting
  • Headache Weakness and Sleepiness
  • Inability to Think Coherently

IF YOU OR ANYONE ELSE EXPERIENCE ANY OF THESE SYMPTOMS, GET OUT INTO THE FRESH AIR IMMEDIATELY. If symptoms persist, seek medical attention. Shut down the unit and do not restart until it has been inspected and repaired.

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

INTRODUCTION

Read these safety instructions carefully. Most accidents are caused by failure to follow fundamental rules and precautions. Know when dangerous conditions exist and take the necessary precautions to protect yourself, your personnel, and your machinery.

The following safety instructions are in compliance with the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) standards.

PREVENT ELECTRIC SHOCK

WARNING: Do not touch AC electrical connections while engine is running, or when connected to shore power. Lethal voltage is present at these connections!

  • Do not operate this machinery without electrical enclosures and covers in place.
  • Shut off electrical power before accessing electrical equipment.
  • Use insulated mats whenever working on electrical equipment.
  • Make sure your clothing and skin are dry, not damp (particularly shoes) when handling electrical equipment.
  • Remove wristwatch and all jewelry when working on electrical equipment.
  • Do not connect utility shore power to vessel's AC circuits, except through a ship-to-shore double throw transfer switch. Damage to vessel's AC generator may result if this procedure is not followed.
  • Electrical shock results from handling a charged capacitor. Discharge capacitor by shorting terminals together with an insulated tool.

PREVENT BURNS — HOT ENGINE

WARNING: Do not touch hot engine parts or exhaust system components. A running engine gets very hot!

Always check the engine coolant level at the coolant recovery tank.

A WARNING: Steam can cause injury or death!

■ In case of an engine overheat, allow the engine to cool before touching the engine or checking the coolant.

PREVENT BURNS — FIRE

A WARNING: Fire can cause injury or death!

  • Prevent flash fires. Do not smoke or permit flames or sparks to occur near the carburetor, fuel line, filter, fuel pump, or other potential sources of spilled fuel or fuel vapors. Use a suitable container to catch all fuel when removing the fuel line, carburetor, or fuel filters.
  • Do not operate with a Coast Guard Approved flame arrester removed. Backfire can cause severe injury or death.
  • Do not operate with the air cleaner/silencer removed. Backfire can cause severe injury or death.
  • Do not smoke or permit flames or sparks to occur near the fuel system. Keep the compartment and the engine/generator clean and free of debris to minimize the chances of fire. Wipe up all spilled fuel and engine oil.
  • Be aware diesel fuel will burn.

PREVENT BURNS — EXPLOSION

A WARNING: Explosions from fuel vapors can cause injury or death!

  • Follow re-fueling safety instructions. Keep the vessel's hatches closed when fueling. Open and ventilate cabin after fueling. Check below for fumes/vapor before running the blower. Run the blower for four minutes before starting your engine.
  • All fuel vapors are highly explosive. Use extreme care when handling and storing fuels. Store fuel in a well-ventilated area away from spark-producing equipment and out of the reach of children.
  • Do not fill the fuel tank(s) while the engine is running.
  • Shut off the fuel service valve at the engine when servicing the fuel system. Take care in catching any fuel that might spill. DO NOT allow any smoking, open flames, or other sources of fire near the fuel system or engine when servicing. Ensure proper ventilation exists when servicing the fuel system.
  • Do not alter or modify the fuel system.

WESTERBEKE

  • Be sure all fuel supplies have a positive shutoff valve.
  • Be certain fuel line fittings are adequately tightened and free of leaks.
  • Make sure a fire extinguisher is installed nearby and is properly maintained. Be familiar with its proper use. Extinguishers rated ABC by the NFPA are appropriate for all applications encountered in this environment.
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ACCIDENTAL STARTING

A WARNING: Accidental starting can cause injury or death!

  • Disconnect the battery cables before servicing the engine/ generator. Remove the negative lead first and reconnect it last.
  • Make certain all personnel are clear of the engine before starting.
  • Make certain all covers, guards, and hatches are reinstalled before starting the engine.

BATTERY EXPLOSION

WARNING: Battery explosion can cause injury or death!

  • Do not smoke or allow an open flame near the battery being serviced. Lead acid batteries emit hydrogen, a highly explosive gas, which can be ignited by electrical arcing or by lit tobacco products. Shut off all electrical equipment in the vicinity to prevent electrical arcing during servicing.
  • Never connect the negative (-) battery cable to the positive (+) connection terminal of the starter solenoid. Do not test the battery condition by shorting the terminals together. Sparks could ignite battery gases or fuel vapors. Ventilate any compartment containing batteries to prevent accumulation of explosive gases. To avoid sparks, do not disturb the battery charger connections while the battery is being charged.
  • Avoid contacting the terminals with tools, etc., to prevent burns or sparks that could cause an explosion. Remove wristwatch, rings, and any other jewelry before handling the battery.
  • Always turn the battery charger off before disconnecting the battery connections. Remove the negative lead first and reconnect it last when servicing the battery.
BATTERY ACID

WARNING: Sulphuric acid in batteries can cause severe injury or death!

■ When servicing the battery or checking the electrolyte level, wear rubber gloves, a rubber apron, and eye protection. Batteries contain sulfuric acid which is destructive. If it comes in contact with your skin, wash it off at once with water. Acid may splash on the skin or into the eyes inadvertently when removing electrolyte caps.

TOXIC EXHAUST GASES

A WARNING: Carbon monoxide (CO) is a deadly gas!

  • Ensure that the exhaust system is adequate to expel gases discharged from the engine. Check the exhaust system regularly for leaks and make sure the exhaust manifolds are securely attached and no warping exists. Pay close attention to the manifold, water injection elbow, and exhaust pipe nipple.
  • Be sure the unit and its surroundings are well ventilated.
  • In addition to routine inspection of the exhaust system, install a carbon monoxide detector. Consult your boat builder or dealer for installation of approved detectors.
  • For additional information refer to ABYC T-22 (educational information on Carbon Monoxide).

WARNING: Carbon monoxide (CO) is an invisible odorless gas. Inhalation produces flu-like symptoms, nausea or death!

  • Do not use copper tubing in diesel exhaust systems. Diesel fumes can rapidly destroy copper tubing in exhaust systems. Exhaust sulfur causes rapid deterioration of copper tubing resulting in exhaust/water leakage.
  • Do not install exhaust outlet where exhaust can be drawn through portholes, vents, or air conditioners. If the engine exhaust discharge outlet is near the waterline, water could enter the exhaust discharge outlet and close or restrict the flow of exhaust. Avoid overloading the craft.
  • Although diesel engine exhaust gases are not as toxic as exhaust fumes from gasoline engines, carbon monoxide gas is present in diesel exhaust fumes. Some of the symptoms or signs of carbon monoxide inhalation or poisoning are:
    • Vomiting
    • Dizziness

FIWESTERBEKE

  • Throbbing in temples
  • Muscular twitching
  • Intense headache
  • Weakness and sleepiness

AVOID MOVING PARTS

A WARNING: Rotating parts can cause injury or death!

■ Do not service the engine while it is running. If a situation arises in which it is absolutely necessary to make operat-

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

ing adjustments, use extreme care to avoid touching moving parts and hot exhaust system components.

  • Do not wear loose clothing or jewelry when servicing equipment; avoid wearing loose jackets, shirts, sleeves, rings, necklaces or bracelets that could be caught in moving parts.
  • Make sure all attaching hardware is properly tightened. Keep protective shields and guards in their respective places at all times.
  • Do not check fluid levels or the drive belt's tension while the engine is operating.
  • Stay clear of the drive shaft and the transmission coupling when the engine is running; hair and clothing can easily be caught in these rotating parts.
HAZARDOUS NOISE

WARNING: High noise levels can cause hearing loss!

  • Never operate an engine without its muffler installed.
  • Do not run an engine with the air intake (silencer) removed.
  • Do not run engines for long periods with their enclosures open.

WARNING: Do not work on machinery when you are mentally or physically incapacitated by fatigue!

OPERATORS MANUAL

Many of the preceding safety tips and warnings are repeated in your Operators Manual along with other cautions and notes to highlight critical information. Read your manual carefully, maintain your equipment, and follow all safety procedures.

ENGINE INSTALLATIONS

Preparations to install an engine should begin with a thorough examination of the American Boat and Yacht Council's (ABYC) standards. These standards are a combination of sources including the USCG and the NFPA.

Sections of the ABYC standards of particular interest are:

H-2 Ventilation

  • P-1 Exhaust systems
  • P-4 Inboard engines
  • E-9 DC Electrical systems

All installations must comply with the Federal Code of Regulations (FCR).

ABYC, NFPA AND USCG PUBLICATIONS FOR INSTALLING DIESEL ENGINES

Read the following ABYC, NFPA and USCG publications for safety codes and standards. Follow their recommendations when installing your engine/generator.

ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council) "Safety Standards for Small Craft"

Order From:

ABYC 3069 Solomon's Island Road Edgewater, MD 21037

NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) "Fire Protection Standard for Motor Craft"

Order From:

NFPA 11 Tracy Drive

Avon Industrial Park Avon, MA 02322

USCG (United States Coast Guard) "USCG 33CFR183"

Order From:

ESTERBEKE

U.S. Government Printing Office Washington, D.C. 20404

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Product Software
Engine/Generator Model Designations
Notes, Cautions and Warnings
Ordering Parts/Serial Number Location
Tosting for Averbaul
How to Judge Engine Overhaul Period 6
Cause of Low Compression
Measuring Compression Pressure
Overhaul Conditions
Disassembly
Reassembly
Service Standards
Tightening Torque 11
Fnnine Troubleshooting
Engine Parts Identification 16
2-Cylinder Models
3-Cylinder Models17
Cylinder Head
Construction
Cylinder Head Service
Disassembly
Cylinder Head 20
Valve Guide 20
Valve Seat
Valve21
Valve Spring
Rocker Arm and Rocker Shaft
Reassembly
Installation of Cylinder Head Assembly 22
Valve Clearance Adjustment
Cylinder Block
Construction
Cylinder Block Service
Cylinder Block Service
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B C and D Models 25
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26
Cylinder Block Service25Disassembly25A Models25B, C and D Models25Removing Piston Pin26Inspection26
Cylinder Block Service25Disassembly25A Models25B, C and D Models25Removing Piston Pin26Inspection26Cylinder Block26
Cylinder Block Service25Disassembly25A Models25B, C and D Models25Removing Piston Pin26Inspection26Cylinder Block26Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings27
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Cylinder Block 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Connecting Rod 27
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Cylinder Block 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Pagriage and Connecting Rod Pagriage 28
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Cylinder Block 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Cylinder Block 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft 29 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft 29
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft 29 Ball Bearings 29 Texetter 20
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft 29 Ball Bearings 29 Tappets 29 Push Bods 29
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft 29 Ball Bearings 29 Tappets 29 Push Rods 29 Reassembly A Models 30
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Viston Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Camshaft 29 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft 29 Papets 29 Reassembly A Models 30 Reassembly 30 Reassembly B, C and D Models 33
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Cylinder Block 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Camshaft 29 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft 29 Papets 29 Push Rods 29 Reassembly — A Models 30 Reassembly — B, C and D Models 33 Governor 37
Cylinder Block Service25Disassembly25A Models25B, C and D Models25Removing Piston Pin26Inspection26Oylinder Block26Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings27Connecting Rod27Crankshaft28Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings28Gearcase29Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear29Camshaft29Puel Injection Pump Camshaft29Papets29Rapsets29ReassemblyA Models30ReassemblyA Models33Governor37Description37
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Cylinder Block 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Camshaft 29 Tapets 29 Tapets 29 Reassembly — A Models 30 Reassembly — B, C and D Models 33 Governor 37 Disassembly 37
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Cylinder Block 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Tappets 29 Tappets 29 Reassembly — A Models 30 Reassembly — B, C and D Models 33 Governor 37 Disassembly 37 Inspection 37
Cylinder Block Service25Disassembly25A Models25B, C and D Models25Removing Piston Pin26Inspection26Cylinder Block26Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings27Connecting Rod27Crankshaft28Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings28Gearcase29Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear29Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft29Ball Bearings29Tappets29Push Rods29Reassembly — A Models30Reassembly — B, C and D Models33Governor37Disassembly37Inspection37Governor Lever37Governor Spring37
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Cylinder Block 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft 29 Ball Bearings 29 Tappets 29 Reassembly — A Models 30 Reassembly — B, C and D Models 33 Governor 37 Disassembly 37 Needle Bearing 37
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Cylinder Block 26 Cylinder Block 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft 29 Ball Bearings 29 Tappets 29 Reassembly — A Models 30 Reassembly — B, C and D Models 33 Governor 37 Disassembly 37 Needle Bearing 37 Reassembly and Adjustment 37
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Cylinder Block 26 Cylinder Block 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft 29 Ball Bearings 29 Tappets 29 Reassembly — A Models 30 Reassembly — B, C and D Models 33 Governor 37 Disassembly 37 Needle Bearing 37 Needle Bearing 37 Reassembly and Adjustment 37 Engine Shutoff 38
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Cylinder Block 26 Cylinder Block 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft 29 Ball Bearings 29 Tappets 29 Reassembly — A Models 30 Reassembly — B, C and D Models 33 Governor 37 Disassembly 37 Description 37 Needle Bearing 37 Needle Bearing 37 Reassembly and Adjustment 37 Reassembly and Adjustment 37 Engine with Manual Stop (Standard) 38
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Cylinder Block 26 Cylinder Block 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft 29 Ball Bearings 29 Tappets 29 Push Rods 29 Reassembly A Models 33 30 Reassembly 37 Description 37 Disassembly 37 Disassembly 37 Needle Bearing 37 Needle Bearing 37 Reassembly and Adjustment 37 Reassembly and Adjustment 37 Reassembly and Adjustment 38 Engine with Manual Stop (Standard) 38
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Cylinder Block 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft 29 Ball Bearings 29 Tappets 29 Push Rods 29 Reassembly A Models 33 Governor 37 Description 37 Disassembly Models 33 Governor Lever 37 Governor Spring 37 Needle Bearing 37 Reassembly and Adjustment 37 Sinstalling and Adjusting the Key Switch 38
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Connecting Rod Bearings 28 Gearcase 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft 29 Ball Bearings 29 Tappets 29 Reassembly A Models 30 Reassembly Reassembly A Models 31 Governor 32 37 Disassembly 37 Inspection 37 Governor Lever 37 Governor Spring 37 Needle Bearing 37
Cylinder Block Service 25 Disassembly 25 A Models 25 B, C and D Models 25 Removing Piston Pin 26 Inspection 26 Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings 27 Connecting Rod 27 Crankshaft 28 Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings 29 Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear 29 Camshaft 29 Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft 29 Ball Bearings 29 Tappets 29 Push Rods 29 Reassembly A Models 30 Reassembly Reassembly A Models 33 Governor 37 Description 37 Reassembly 1nspection 37 Needle Bearing 37 Reassembly 37 Inspection 37 Description 37 Needle Bearing 37 Reassembly and Adjustment 37 Reassembly and Adjustment<
Engine Adjustments
Tightening the Cylinder Head
Adjusting Valve Clearance
Adjusting Fuel Injection Timing 40
Adjusting No Load Engine Speeds ۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰
Adjusting No-Load Engine Speeds
Lubrication System Service
Description
Disassembly 42
Oil Filter and Oil Pump 42
Inspection 43
Oil Pump 43
Reassembly 43
Testing the Oil Pressure
Oil Pressure Switch 44
Generators лл
ЛЛ
Bropulsion Engines ·····
ruei System
Description 45
Fuel System Service 47
Disassembly 47
Fuel Filter 47
Fuel Lift Pump 47
Fuel Injection Pump
Injector
Inspection 48
Fuel Filter 48
Fuel Lift Pump ۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰۰
Fuel Injection Pump
Nogalo
NOZZIE
Reassembly
Fuel Filter
Fuel Lift Pump
Injection Pump
Installation and Adjustment of Fuel Injection Pu mp49
Injector 50
Adjustment and Installation of Nozzle Holder A ssembly50
Paw Water Cooling Circuit
naw water counny circuit
Description
Description
Description
Pump Overhaul — Raw Water Pump PN 33636
Dicassembly
Pump Overhaul — Raw Water Pump PN 33636
Disassembly
Pump Overhaul — Raw Water Pump PN 33636
Disassembly
Pump Overhaul — Raw Water Pump PN 33636
Disassembly
Reassembly
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naw water cooling circuit Description Raw Water Pump Service. Pump Overhaul — Raw Water Pump PN 33636 Disassembly Inspection Reassembly Pump Overhaul — Raw Water Pump PN 32610 Disassembly Inspection Reassembly Inspection Reassembly Pump Overhaul — Raw Water Pump PN 24143 Disassembly Inspection Reassembly Inspection Bescription Fresh Water Cooling Service Disassembly Inspection Water Pump 52
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Description 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 60

Page 8

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Activa allel – Eally Muuels
ition by Key Switch62
Starter/Se llenoid Service
Descr ption64
Adjus tment and Repair64
Pi ion Gap Inspection64
NO -Load Test64
Solen Did
Starte Disassembly
Starte Inspection
50 lenoid
specting the Armature
DI and Drush Holder hispection
Storto r Adjustment and Passeembly
acl System
ical system
Descr pilon
Chara gine 12-volt Control Circuit
Altor ing System
Allen allor froubleshooting
Dattor v Maintananaa
Glow y Maintenance
Alternate r Tugs
Decer intian 70
Altor pilon
Alleri ator froubleshooting
sting the Charging Voltage
Diese nput 165t
Increa senioly
Inspec ode 72
C ecking for Short Circuit 72
CI ecking for Open Circuit 72
Ch ecking Diode Trio
St ator 73
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sions 75 ical System 76 e Wiring Diagram #24666 Key Switch 76 e Wiring Schematic #24666 Key Switch 77 e Wiring Diagram #33685 Key Switch & 77 o Pushbuttons 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 78 o Pushbuttons 78 o Pushbuttons 79
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sions 75 ical System 76 e Wiring Diagram #24666 Key Switch 76 e Wiring Schematic #24666 Key Switch 77 e Wiring Diagram #33685 Key Switch & 70 vo Pushbuttons 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 79 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 80
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sions 75 ical System 76 e Wiring Diagram #24666 Key Switch 76 e Wiring Schematic #24666 Key Switch 77 e Wiring Diagram #33685 Key Switch & 70 vo Pushbuttons 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 79 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 80 e Wiring Schematic #36844 Admiral Panel 81
DC Electu
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sions 75 ical System 76 e Wiring Diagram #24666 Key Switch 76 e Wiring Schematic #24666 Key Switch 77 e Wiring Diagram #33685 Key Switch & 70 vo Pushbuttons 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 70 Pushbuttons 79 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 80 e Wiring Schematic #36844 Admiral Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel 82
DC Electi
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sions 75 ical System 76 e Wiring Diagram #24666 Key Switch 76 e Wiring Schematic #24666 Key Switch 77 e Wiring Diagram #33685 Key Switch & 77 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 79 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 80 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #368467 Captain Panel 82 e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel 83
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sions 75 ical System 76 e Wiring Diagram #24666 Key Switch 76 e Wiring Schematic #24666 Key Switch 77 e Wiring Diagram #33685 Key Switch & 77 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 79 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 80 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel 82 e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel 83 e Wiring Diagram #39144 Admiral & 83
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sions 75 ical System 76 e Wiring Diagram #24666 Key Switch 76 e Wiring Schematic #24666 Key Switch 77 e Wiring Diagram #33685 Key Switch & 77 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 79 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 80 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel 82 e Wiring Diagram #39144 Admiral & 83 e Wiring Diagram #39144 Admiral & 84 e Wiring Schematic #39144 Admiral & 84
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sions 75 ical System 76 e Wiring Diagram #24666 Key Switch 76 e Wiring Schematic #24666 Key Switch 77 e Wiring Diagram #33685 Key Switch & 77 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 78 vo Pushbuttons 78 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 80 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel 82 e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel 83 e Wiring Diagram #39144 Admiral & 9tain Panels 84 e Wiring Schematic #39144 Admiral & 84 84 e Wiring Schematic #39144 Admiral & 85 85
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sions 75 ical System 76 e Wiring Diagram #24666 Key Switch 76 e Wiring Schematic #24666 Key Switch 77 e Wiring Diagram #33685 Key Switch & 70 vo Pushbuttons 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 79 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 80 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel 82 e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel 83 e Wiring Diagram #39144 Admiral & 9tain Panels e Wiring Schematic #39144 Admiral & 84 e Wiring Schematic #39144 Admiral & 85 Hardware 86 & Lubricants 86 mversions 87
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sions 75 ical System 76 e Wiring Diagram #24666 Key Switch 76 e Wiring Schematic #24666 Key Switch 77 e Wiring Diagram #33685 Key Switch & 70 vo Pushbuttons 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 79 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 80 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 80 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel 82 e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel 83 e Wiring Diagram #39144 Admiral & 9 ptain Panels 84 e Wiring Schematic #39144 Admiral & 84 e Wiring Schematic #39144 Admiral & 85 Hardware 86 & Lubricants 86 inversions 87 r Information 88
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sions 75 ical System 76 e Wiring Diagram #24666 Key Switch 76 e Wiring Schematic #24666 Key Switch 77 e Wiring Diagram #33685 Key Switch & 77 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 79 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 80 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 80 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #36847 Captain Panel 82 e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel 82 e Wiring Diagram #39144 Admiral & 91 e Wiring Schematic #39144 Admiral & 84 e Wiring Schematic #39144 Admiral & 85 Hardware 86 & Lubricants 86 Inversions 87 r Information 88 f Electric Motors 88 ator Frequency Adjustment 88
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sions 75 ical System 76 e Wiring Diagram #24666 Key Switch 76 e Wiring Schematic #24666 Key Switch 77 e Wiring Diagram #33685 Key Switch & 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 78 e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch & 79 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 80 e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel 80 e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel 81 e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel 82 e Wiring Diagram #39144 Admiral & 91 e Wiring Schematic #39144 Admiral & 84 e Wiring Schematic #39144 Admiral & 85 Hardware 86 & Lubricants 86 Inversions 87 r Information 88 f Electric Motors 88 ator Frequency Adjustment 88 ator Troubleshooting 88 iption 89 e Wiring Schematic #39144 89 e Wiring Schematic #39
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Inspea
Reass
WMD Gel
No El
Flash
sions75ical System76e Wiring Diagram #24666 Key Switch76e Wiring Schematic #24666 Key Switch77e Wiring Diagram #3685 Key Switch &78e Wiring Schematic #33685 Key Switch &78e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel80e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel80e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel81e Wiring Diagram #36844 Admiral Panel81e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel82e Wiring Diagram #36467 Captain Panel83e Wiring Diagram #39144 Admiral &e Wiring Schematic #39144 Admiral &ptain Panels85Hardware86& Lubricants86unversions87r Information88red Operating Speed88ator Troubleshooting89embly89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89etion89
Replacement of Field Coil(s) .91
Low Voltage Output .91
High Voltage Output .92
Solenoid with Throttle Linkage .92
WN ID Generator AC Internal Wiring Diagrams .93
WN ID Generator DC Electrical System .94
WMD Generator Wiring Diagram #24700 .94
WMD Generator Wiring Schematic #24700 .95
8.0 BTD Generator 96
0.0 Description 96
s n BTD Congrator Troublachanting 07
0.0 9.0 PTD Internet Wiring Schemetic .97
8.0 BTD Internal Wiring Schematic with Voltage .97
8.0 BTD Internal wiring Schematic with voltage 00
Regulator Circuit Removed .90
Tratia the Deide Destifier for Faults 00
Testing the Bridge Rectifier for Faults 00
with an Onmmeter 00
Exciter Stator Windings 01
Exciter Rotor 02
Main Stator Windings 03
Compound Transformer 03
Selector Switch .04
Bridge Rectifier Wiring1 .04
No-Load Voltage Adjustment 05
Optional Voltage Regulator1 06
Installation1 06
Generator Frequency1 07
Manual Check1 07
Electrical Check1 07
Winding Connections1 .08
10. O BTD Generator1 .09
Description1 09
10. O BTD Generator Troubleshooting1 10
10.0 BTD Internal Wiring Schematic1 10
Residual Voltage Check1 12
Bridge Rectifier1 12
Testing the Bridge Rectifier for Faults
with an Ohmmeter1 13
Internal Wiring Diagram1 13
Component Resistance Values1 14
Component Resistance Checks 14
Exciter Stator Windings1 14
Exciter Rotor/Field1 15
Main Stator Windings1 16
Compound Transformer 16
Selector Switch 16
Bridge Rectifier Wiring 16
No-Load Voltage Adjustment1 17
Voltage/Hertz Connection Bar .17
Voltage/Hertz Connection Bar1
Generator Frequency
.17
.17
.18
Voltage/Hertz Connection Bar1
Generator Frequency1
Wiring Connections
.17
.17
.18
.19
BT Voltage/Hertz Connection Bar .17
.18
.19
.20
BT Voltage/Hertz Connection Bar1
Generator Frequency
.17
.18
.19
.20
.20
BT Voltage/Hertz Connection Bar .17
.18
.19
.20
.20
BT Voltage/Hertz Connection Bar 1 Generator Frequency 1 Wiring Connections 1 Generator DC Electrical System 1 BT Generator (Early Models) Wiring Diagram #34651 1 8.0 BTD & 10.0 BTD Generators Wiring 1 Diagram #36412 1 .17
.18
.19
.20
.20
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Page 9

INTRODUCTION

This service manual contains detailed information relating to the proper operation of the major components and systems of the engine or generator. Included are disassembly, inspection, service, and reassembly instructions for the guidance of suitably equipped and staffed marine engine service and rebuilding facilities. The necessary procedures should be undertaken only by such facilities and their personnel. Refer also to your Westerbeke parts catalog when performing an engine overhaul.

PRODUCT SOFTWARE

Product software (tech data, parts lists, manuals, brochures and catalogs) provided from sources other than WESTER-BEKE are not within WESTERBEKE'S control.

WESTERBEKE CANNOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE CONTENT OF SUCH SOFTWARE, MAKES NO WAR-RANTIES OR REPRESENTATIONS WITH RESPECT THERETO, INCLUDING ACCURACY, TIMELINESS OR COMPLETENESS THEREOF AND WILL IN NO EVENT BE LIABLE FOR ANY TYPE OF DAMAGE OR INJURY INCURRED IN CONNECTION WITH OR ARISING OUT OF THE FURNISHING OR USE OF SUCH SOFTWARE.

WESTERBEKE customers should also keep in mind the time span between printings of WESTERBEKE product software and the unavoidable existence of earlier WESTER-BEKE manuals. In summation, product software provided with WESTERBEKE products, whether from WESTER-BEKE or other suppliers, must not and cannot be relied upon exclusively as the definitive authority on the respective product. It not only makes good sense but is imperative that appropriate representatives of WESTERBEKE or the supplier in question be consulted to determine the accuracy and currentness of the product software being consulted by the customer.

ENGINE/GENERATOR MODEL DESIGNATIONS

This manual contains certain descriptions, procedures and specifications that vary depending on the engine/generator model. Where references to specific models are necessary, four basic model group designations are used: A Models , B Models , C Models and D Models .

( A MODELS
2-Cylinde
S
R)
B MODELS
(3-Cylinder)
ENGINES GENER ATORS ENGINES GENERATORS
60 Hz 50 Hz 60 Hz 50 Hz
W-13 WMD 4.4 WMD 3.3 W-18 WMD 6.0 WMD 4.5
W-13A 4.4 BCD 3.3 BCD W-18 6.0 BCD 4.5 BCD
( C MODELS
3-CYLINDE
S
R)
D MODELS
(3-CYLINDER)
ENGINES GENER ATORS ENGINES GENERATORS
60 Hz 50 Hz LINUINED 60 Hz 50 Hz
W-21 WMD 7.7 WMD 5.8 35B Three 10.0 BTD 7.5 BTD
WMD 8.0 WMD 6.0
W-21A 8.0 BTD 6.0 BTD
RD-60

Differences between 2-cylinder and 3-cylinder engine models are described in the disassembly, inspection and reassembly procedures throughout the Engine section of this manual.

NOTES, CAUTIONS AND WARNINGS

As this manual takes you through the service procedures, maintenance schedules, and troubleshooting of your marine engine/generator, critical information will be highlighted by NOTES, CAUTIONS, and WARNINGS. An explanation follows:

NOTE: An operating procedure essential to note.

CAUTION: Procedures, which if not strictly observed, can result in the damage or destruction of your engine/generator.

WARNING: Procedures, which if not properly followed, can result in personal injury or loss of life.

ORDERING PARTS/SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION

Whenever replacement parts are needed for engines, always provide the engine model number and engine serial number as they appear on the silver and black identification nameplate located on the manifold. For generators, provide the complete generator model number, engine serial number, and generator serial number as they appear on the silver and black decal located on the generator end.

The engine serial number can also be found stamped into the engine block just outboard of the injection pump. The generator serial number is stamped into the generator housing on the side or above the rear carrier bearing.

You must provide us with this information so we may properly identify your engine/generator. In addition, include a complete part description and part number for each part needed (see the separately furnished Parts List). Also insist upon WESTERBEKE packaged parts because will fit or generic parts are frequently not made to the same specifications as original equipment.

NOTE: Component locations in this manual are referenced from the front of the engine which is the pulley/drive belt end. Left and right sides are determined as follows: imagine straddling the engine, facing in the same direction as the front of the engine: the left side is at your left, the right side is at your right.

Page 10

INTRODUCTION

Owners may find it convenient to fill in the data on the decal or identification nameplate shown below to provide a quick reference when using this service manual.

SPECIFICATION 50 HZ. 60 HZ.
MODEL
RPM
KW
KVA
VOLTS
AMPS
ENG. HP
ENG. SER. NO.
GEN. SER. NO.
PF/PHASE
WIRES
RATING
INSUL CLASS
TEMP. RISE
BATTERY
C.I.D. :

GENERATOR DECAL

PROPULSION ENGINE IDENTIFICATION NAMEPLATE

Page 11

ENGINE/GENERATOR SPECIFICATIONS

A MODELS
(2-CYLINDER)
B MODEL
(3-CYLIND
S
ER)
C MODELS
(3-CYLINDER)
D MODELS
(3 CYLINDER)
ENGINES GENER ATORS ENGINES GENEF ATORS ENGINES GENER ATORS ENGINES GENER ATORS
60 Hz 50 Hz 60 Hz 50 Hz 60 HZ 50 Hz 60 Hz 50 Hz
W13
W-13A
WMD 4.4 WMD 3.3
3.3 BCD
W-18
W-18
WMD 6.0 WMD 4.5 W-21 WMD 7.7 WMD 5.8 35B Three 10.0 BTD 7.5 BTD
4.4 808 0.0 000 0.0 000 1.0 000 W-21A 8.0 BTD 6.0 BTD
- RD-60
Engine Type Vertical , inline, 4- cycle, O HV, freshw /ater-coole d with h eat exchan ger, diesel engine.
Cylinders 2 3
Bore & Stroke 2.8 x 3 3.0 in. (70 x 78 mm) 2.6 x 3 3.1 in. (65 x 78 mm) 2.9 x 3 3.1 in. (73 x 78 mm) 3.1 x 3 3.1 in. (78 x 78 mm)
Total Displacement 36.6 cu. in. (0.6 60 liters) 47.4 cu. in. (0.7 78 liters) 59.7 cu. in. (0.9 98 liters) 68.2 cu. in. (1. 12 liters)
Combustion Chamber Swi rl chamber type
Compression Ratio 23:1
Injection Order 1-2 1-3-2
Injection Timing Engine es: 23° ± 1.5° BT DC; Genei ators: 1 9° ± 1.5° BTDC _
Injection Pump E Bosch M ty pe
Injection Nozzle - Throttle typ e
Governor Centrif ugal flywei ght type -
Fuel D iesel #2 ce tane rating 45 or h igher
Lubrication F orced lubri ication (tro choid pı imp)
Oil Filter Р aper-ele ement filter full flow type) .5 liter capaci ity
Sump Capacity 2.5 quarts. (2. 3 liters) 3.6 quarts (3.5 liters)
Fresh Water Pump · Ce entrifugal t уре
Fresh Water Coolant
Capacity (approximate)
4.0 quarts (3. 7 liters) 5.0 quarts (4.8 liters) )
Raw Water Pump Posit ive displac ement (Ne oprene i mpeller)
Starter Motor 12 volts – 1.6 kW red duction t уре
DC Alternator 12 vo lt - 50 amp ) – internal voltage regulator
Inclination Angle 15° Contin
20° Tem
uous (in al
porary (20
I direction minutes ons)
S)
Starting Battery 12 volt 3 300 C.C.A. or greate er
Compression Value
Standard
Minimum
Overhaul
455 psi at
370 psi at
312 psi at
280 rpm
280 rpm
280 rpm
(32 kg/c)
(26 kg/c)
(22 kg/c)
m²)
m²)
m²)
Difference between
Cylinders
35.5 psi (2.5 kg g/cm²)

Page 12

TESTING FOR OVERHAUL

HOW TO JUDGE ENGINE OVERHAUL PERIOD

Cause of Low Compression

Generally, the time at which an engine should be overhauled is determined by various conditions such as lowered engine power output, decreased compression pressure, and increased fuel and oil consumption. The lowered engine power output, in the case of diesel engines, is not necessarily due to trouble with the engine itself, but is sometimes caused by injector nozzle wear or injection pump wear. It is most reasonable to judge by a decrease in compression pressure. The decrease in compression pressure is caused by many factors. It is, therefore, necessary to determine a cause or causes on the basis of data produced by periodic inspection and maintenance. Oil analysis on a seasonal basis is a good means of monitoring engine internal wear. When caused by worn cylinders or piston rings, the following symptoms will occur:

Low engine power output

Increased fuel consumption Increased oil consumption

Hard engine starting

Noisy engine operation

These symptoms often appear together. Increased fuel consumption and hard engine starting can result also from excessive fuel injection, improper injection timing, and wear of plugs and nozzles. They are caused also by defective electrical devices such as the battery, alternator, starter and glow plugs. Therefore it is desirable to judge the optimum engine overhaul time by the lowered compression pressure caused by worn cylinders and pistons plus increased oil consumption. In diesel engines, satisfactory combustion is obtained only under sufficient compression pressure. If an engine lacks compression pressure, incomplete combustion of fuel will take place even if other parts of the engine are operating properly. To judge the period of engine overhaul, it is important to measure the engine compression pressure regularly. At the same time, the engine speed at which measurement of compression pressure is made should be checked because the compression pressure varies with engine rpm.

The engine rpm can be measured at the front end of the crankshaft.

Measuring Compression Pressure

To check the compression pressure, follow this procedure:

  • 1. Warm the engine.
  • 2. Remove all the fuel injectors or all the glow plugs from the cylinder block.
  • 3. Disconnect the fuel solenoid from the throttle arm (generator models only).
  • 4. Place the stop lever in the OFF position (propulsion models only).

  • 5. Install a pressure gauge adapter in the first injector hole or glow plug hole to be tested.
  • 6. Connect the pressure gauge to the adapter.

  • 7. Crank the engine with the starter motor until the pressure reaches a maximum value. Read the engine rpm and the pressure gauge when the starter rotation has become stable.
  • 8. Repeat the above procedure for each cylinder.
  • 9. If the compression differs by more than 42.7 psi (3.0 kg/cm2) at 200 rpm, then determine the cause of the low pressure, and repair as necessary.

NOTE: Do not guess the conditions of other cylinders from a result of testing one cylinder. Be sure to measure the compression pressure for each cylinder. Look for cylinders with dramatically (at least 20%) lower compression than the average of the other cylinders. If the weak cylinder is flanked by healthy cylinders, the problem is either valve- or head-gasket related; or very low compression in an adjacent cylinder indicates gasket failure. Abnormally high readings on all cylinders indicate heavy carbon accumulations, a condition that might be accompanied by high pressures and noise.

NOTE: In case of severe vibrations, detonation noise, and smoky, sooty exhaust, have the injectors overhauled by an authorized fuel injection service center. Poor fuel quality, contaminants, and loss of positive fuel pressure to the injection pump will result in injector faults.

OVERHAUL CONDITIONS

Compression pressure tends to increase a little in a new engine until piston rings and valve seats have been broken in. Thereafter, it decreases gradually with the progressive wear of these parts.

When decrease of compression pressure reaches the repair value, the engine must be overhauled.

The engine requires overhaul when oil consumption is high, blowby evident, and compression values are at minimum or below. Engine compression should be 32 kg/cm2 (at 280 rpm). See SERVICE STANDARDS chart.

Page 13

TESTING FOR OVERHAUL

NOTE: The SERVICE STANDARDS chart gives the values for repair or replacement of the engine components. Refer to these values and measurements during engine overhaul.

Disassembly

  • 1. Before disassembly and cleaning, carefully check for defects which cannot be found after disassembly and cleaning.
  • 2. Drain water, fuel and oil before disassembly.
  • 3. Clean or wash the engine exterior.
  • 4. Do not remove or disassemble the parts that require no disassembly.
  • 5. Perform disassembly in a proper order using proper tools. Keep disassembled parts in order. Apply oil when necessary. Take special care to keep the fuel system parts free from the intrusion of dust and dirt.
Reassembly

  • 1. Prepare all parts necessary for reassembly.
  • 2. Clean or wash the parts. Apply oil on surfaces where needed or specified.
  • 3. Carefully check gaskets, packings and oil seals even if not specified to check. Replace with new ones if defective.
  • 4. Be sure to install in proper directions and positions. (Pay attention to dowel pins, mating marks and specified directions.) Where tightening torque is not specified, tighten evenly to an ordinary torque. Apply sealant where specified.
  • 5. After completion of the reassembly, manually rotate the engine crankshaft two complete revolutions to ensure there is no binding or obstructions. Prepare for starting the engine and idle the engine sufficiently for a test run.

Page 14

These SERVICE STANDARDS specify the values at which the engine components will require REPAIR (replacement is optional), or REPLACEMENT (due to maximum component wear). It is important to observe these standards for your engine/generator, and to take action when necessary to maintain a high level of safety, dependability and performance.

SERVICE STANDARDS

A MODELS
(2-CYLINDER)
В I
(3-С
MODELS
Ylindef
R) C I
(3-C
MODELS
Ylinder
l) D MODELS
(3-CYLINDER)
ENCINES GENEF ATORS GENERATOR ATORS GENERATORS ENCINES GENERATORS
ENGINES 60Hz 50Hz ENGINES 60Hz 50Hz ENGINES 60Hz 50Hz ENGINES 60Hz 50Hz
W-13 WMD 4.4 WMD 3.3 W-18 WMD 6.0 WMD 4.5 W-21 WMD 7.7 WMD 5.8 35B Three 10.0 BTD 7.5 BTD
W-13A 4.4 BCD 3.3 BCD W-18. 6.0 BCD 4.5 BCD WMD 8.0 WMD 6.0
W-21A 8.0 BTD 6.0 BTD
RD-60

All measurements are in mm unless otherwise noted. To convert mm to inches, multiply by .03937

DESCRIPTION MODELS S STANDARD VALUE REPAIR (or
replacement)
Required at:
REPLACEMENT
Required at:
ENGINE COMPRESSION PRESSURE A 32 kg/cm² (at 320 rpm) 26 kg/cm 2
В C D 32 kg/cm² (at 280 rpm) 26 kg/cm 2
INTER-CYLINDER DIFFERENCE (max) A B C D 2.5 kg/cm 2
INJECTION ORDER A [ 1-2
B C D 1-3-2
CYLINDER HEAD
Bottom surface distortion A B C D Within 0.05 0.1
Valve seat angle (IN and EX) A В C D 45°
Valve seat width (IN and EX) A 1.0 – 1.3 2.5
В C D 1.3 – 1.8 2.5
Valve seat sinkage A В C D 0.5 -1
VALVE CLEARANCE (IN and EX) A В C D 0.25 (when engine is cold)
VALVE
Stem 0.D. A В C D 6.6
Stem to guide clearance
Intake A В C D .012 0.10
Exhaust A В C D .025 0.15
Valve face angle A В C D 45°
Valve head thickness (margin width) A В C D 1.0 - 0.5
VALVE SPRING
Free length A В C D 43 -1.0%
Installed load/length A В C D 14.0 kg ± 0.7 kg/36 mm -15%
Squareness A В C D
ROCKER ARM
Arm to shaft clearance A В C D 0.05 mm - 0.2
CYLINDER BLOCK
Camshaft hole I.D.
Front bushing A B C D 45
Cylinder bore A 70 +0.2 +.95 Replace block
or sleeve
B 65 +0.2 +.95 Replace block
or sleeve
C 73 +0.2 +.95 Replace block
or sleeve
D 78 +0.2 +.95 Replace block
or sleeve
Cylinder bore oversize finish tolerance A В C D 0 to 0.03 for each oversize
Taper of cylinder A B C D within 0.01

NOTE: Valve seats are a part of the cylinder head. A machine shop can install valve seats and cut the seats to properly fit the valves.

WESTERBEKE Engines & Generators 8

Page 15

SERVICE STANDARDS

All measurements are in mm unless otherwise noted. To convert mm to inches, multiply by .03937

DESCRIPTION MODELS 8 STANDARD VALUE REPAIR (or
replacement)
Required at:
REPLACEMENT
Required at:
PISTON
0.D. (skirt end) A 70
B 65
C 73
ŀ D 78
Piston to cylinder clearance A B C D .035 – .086 .120 0.3
Oversize A - 0.25, 0.50, 0.75, 1.00
B C D 0.25, 0.50, 0.75
PISTON PIN
Туре Α В C Semi-floating type
D Full-floating type
0.D. A B C 19
D 23
Piston to pin clearance Α B C D 002 (slight force fit-heat) 0.08
Pin to connecting rod clearance Α B C D Press-fit load: 500 – 1500 kg
PISTON RINGS A В C D 3 (No. 1: chrome plated barrel type.
No. 2 and No. 3: taper ring.)
Number of oil rings A В C D 1 (chrome plated with coil expander)
Ring side clearance
Compression No. 1 A B C D .08 – .12 0.3
No. 2 A В C D .05 – .09 0.2
No. 3 A В C D .04 – .08 0.2
Oil ring A В C D .03 – .07 0.2
Ring gap Α В C D .15 – .40 1.25 1.5
CONNECTING ROD
Bend and distortion A В C D .05 0.15
Sideplay clearance A B C D 0.1 – 0.35 0.5
Small-end bushing I.D. D 23 +0.08
CONNECTING ROD BEARING ·
Standard Type Α B C D Kelmet metal with back metal
Oil clearance A B C D .012025 05 0.15
A В C ע 0.25, 0.50, 0.75
| - -
Bend A B C D .03 0.05
End play A - - 0.06 - 0.3
| B C D 0.05 - 0.21 - 0.3 0.05
Main O.D. A | | 59 - 0.15 - 0.95
B C D 52 - 0.15 - 0.95
Conn. O.D. A B C D 42 - 0.15 - 0.95
Undersize finish tolerance | | |
Main (common to all) A B C D 0 – 0.015
Conn. (common to all) A B C D .015
|
A R U Keimet metal with back metal
(flanged metal for center bearing only)
Oil clearance A B C D .04 – .05 .06 0.10
Undersize A В C D 0.25, 0.50, 0.75

Page 16

SERVICE STANDARDS

All measurements are in mm unless otherwise noted. To convert mm to inches, multiply by .03937

DESCRIPTION MODELS S STANDARD VALUE REPAIR (or
replacement)
Required at:
REPLACEMENT
Required at:
CAMSHAFT
Front bearing A В C D Lead bronze alloy with back metal
Oil clearance A В C D 0.04 - 0.08 0.10 0.15
Cam lobe height (IN and EX) A В C D 35.76 -1.0
PUMP CAMSHAFT
Front bearing A В C D Ball bearing
Cam lobe height A В C D 44 -1.0
ТАРРЕТ
0.D. A В C D 23
Tappet to cylinder block clearance A B C D .01 – .08 0.15
PUSH ROD
Bend A B C D Within 0.3

LUBRICATION

ENGINE OIL
Oil specification
API service classification A B C Class CC
D Class CF or CG-4
Viscosity above 20°C A В C D SAE30 or 10W-30
5° to 20°C A В C D SAE20 or 10W-30
below 5°C A В C D SAE 10W-30
OIL PUMP
Type: trochoid Α В C D
Check valve opening pressure Α В C D 4 ± 0.4 kg/cm 2 (at 500 rpm of pump speed)
Outer rotor to body clearance A В C D 0.15 – 0.2 0.3
Outer rotor to inner rotor clearance A В C D 0.05 – 0.12 0.25
Rotor to cover clearance A В C D 0.03 – 0.07 0.20
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
Contact closing pressure
Engine A В C D 4 – 6 psi normally open
Generator A В C D 4 – 6 psi normally open

FUEL SYSTEM

FUEL INJECTION PUMP
Model: ND-PFR2M A
Model: MD-PER3M В C D
At smoke set (SS)
Pump speed A В D 1500 rpm: 27.5 ± 1.0 mm 3 /st
Pump speed C 1500 rpm: 38 ± 1.0 mm 3 /st
At start set (MS)
Pump speed В 150 rpm: 36 ± 7.5 mm 3 /st
Pump speed A C D 150 rpm: 34 ± 5 mm 3 /st
Difference from reference cylinder A В C D Within 2 mm 3 /rev. cylinder
Prestroke A В C D 2.2 ± 0.1
NOZZLE
Throttle type A В C D
Model: ND-DN4SD24 A В C D
Injection start pressure A В C D 120 ± 10 kg/cm 2

STERBEKE es & Generators

10

Page 17

TECHNICAL DATA

TIGHTENING TOROUE

DESCRIPTION MO DEL S TYPE/QUANTITY TIGHTENING TORQUE (kg-m)
CYLINDER HEAD BOLT A (6) 12.0 – 13.0
В C D M12 bolt (8) 11.5 – 12.5 (wet)
В C D M10 bolt (3) 6.5 – 8.0 (wet)
CRANKSHAFT PULLEY NUT A В C D M18 15 – 20
MAIN BEARING CAP BOLT A В C D 5 – 5.5
CONNECTING ROD CAP NUT A В C D 3.2 – 3.5
FLYWHEEL MOUNTING
(8T) bolt with flange
A В C D 13 – 14
(8T) bolt with washer (old) В C D 11.5 – 12.5
OIL DRAIN HOSE BANJO BOLT A В C D 5 – 6
OIL FILTER A В C D 1.1 – 1.3
FUEL INJECTION PUMP
Delivery valve holder A В C D 4 – 5
NOZZLE HOLDER
Holder mounting bolt A В C D 1.5 – 2
Holder body and retaining nut A 8 - 10
В C D 6 – 8
GLOW PLUG A В C D 1.5 – 2

Conversion factor to get Nm: ft-lb x 1.356 = Nm

WESTERBEKE Engines & Generators 11

Page 18

The following troubleshooting table describes certain problems relating to engine service, the probable causes of these problems, and the recommendations to overcome these problems.

NOTE: The engine's electrical system is protected by a 20ampere manual reset circuit breaker located on a bracket on the left front side of the engine. The preheat solenoid is mounted on the same bracket.

PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE VERIFICATION/REMEDY
HARD STARTING LOW CRANKING SPEED
1. Engine oil viscosity too high. 1. Replace engine oil with less viscous oil.
2. Run-down battery. 2. Recharge battery.
3. Worn battery. 3. Replace battery.
4. Battery terminals loosely connected. 4. Clean terminals and correct cables.
5. Defective starter. 5. Repair or replace starter.
DEFECTIVE INJECTION SYSTEM
1. Air trapped in fuel passage. 1. Bleed air from fuel system.
2. Clogged fuel filter. 2. Clean or replace filter.
3. Low injection pressure. 3. Adjust injection pressure.
4. Inadequate spray. 4. Clean or replace nozzle.
5. Injection pump delivering insufficient fuel. 5. Repair or replace injection pump.
6. Injection too early. 6. Adjust injection timing.
MAIN ENGINE TROUBLES
1. Low compression.
a. Incorrect valve clearance. a. Adjust valve clearance.
  • Inadequate contact of valve seat.
b. Lap valve.
c. Valve stem seized. c. Replace valve and valve guide.
d. Broken valve spring. d. Replace valve spring.
e. Compression leaks through cylinder head gasket. e. Replace gasket.
f. Piston ring seized. f. Replace piston and piston ring.
g. Worn piston ring and cylinder. g. Overhaul engine.
2. Burnt glow plug. 2. Replace glow plug.
3. Faulty glow plug operation. 3. Check glow plugs and solenoid.
4. Incorrect governor lever position. 4. Set lever to starting position.
LOW OUTPUT See HARD STARTING
INJECTION SYSTEM OUT OF ADJUSTMENT
  1. Incorrect injection timing.
  1. Adjust injection timing.
2. Insufficient injection.
  1. Repair or replace injection pump.
3. Low injection pressure. 3. Check injection nozzle and adjust pressure.
INSUFFICIENT FUEL
1. Air trapped in fuel system. 1. Check and retighten connector.
2. Clogged filter. 2. Clean or replace filter.
3. Contaminated fuel tank. 3. Clean tank.
INSUFFICIENT INTAKE AIR
1. Clogged air inlet. 1. Clean or replace air inlet.

Page 19
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE VERIFICATION/REMEDY
LOW OUTPUT (cont.) OVERHEATING
1. Low coolant level. 1. Add coolant.
2. Loose V-belt. 2. Adjust or replace V-belt.
3. Incorrect injection timing. 3. Adjust injection timing.
4. Low engine oil level. 4. Add engine oil.
EXCESSIVE OIL OIL LEAKAGE
CONSUMPTION 1. Defective oil seals. 1. Replace oil seals.
2. Broken gear case gasket. 2. Replace gasket.
3. Loose gear case attaching bolts. 3. Retighten bolts.
4. Loose drain plug. 4. Retighten plug.
5. Loose oil pipe connector.
  1. Retighten oil connections.
6. Broken rocker cover gasket. 6. Replace gasket.
7. Loose rocker cover attaching bolts. 7. Retighten attaching bolts.
OIL LEVEL RISING
1. Incorrectly positioned piston ring gaps. 1. Correct ring gap positions.
2. Displaced or twisted connecting rod. 2. Replace connecting rod.
3. Worn piston ring. 3. Replace ring.
4. Worn piston or cylinder. 4. Replace piston and rebore cylinder.
OIL LEVEL FALLING
1. Defective stem seal. 1. Replace stem seal.
2. Worn valve and valve guide. 2. Replace valve and valve guide.
EXCESSIVE FUEL ENGINE BODY TROUBLES
CONSUMPTION 1. Noisy knocking. 1. See KNOCKING.
2. Smoky exhaust. 2. See SMOKY EXHAUST.
3. Moving parts nearly seized or excessively worn. 3. Repair or replace.
4. Poor compression. 4. See LOW COMPRESSION; HARD STARTING.
5. Improper valve timing. 5. Adjust.
6. Improper valve clearance. 6. Adjust.
INSUFFICIENT INTAKE AIR
1. Air intake obstructed. 1. Clean or remove obstruction.
NOZZLE TROUBLES
1. Seized nozzle. 1. Replace.
2. Worn nozzle. 2. Replace.
IMPROPER FUEL Replace with proper fuel.
FUEL LEAKS Find fuel leaks.
SMOKY EXHAUST WHITISH OR PURPLISH
1. Excessive engine oil. 1. Correct oil level.
2. Excessive rise of oil into combustion chamber due to:
a. Poor piston contact. a. Check.
b. Seized piston ring. b. Replace or clean.
c. Excessive piston-to-cylinder clearance. c. Replace or correct.

Page 20
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE VERIFICATION/REMEDY
SMOKY EXHAUST (cont.) WHITISH OR PURPLISH (cont.)
d. Worn valve stem and valve guide. d. Replace.
e. Low engine oil viscosity. e. Replace.
f. Excessive oil pressure. f. Correct.
3. Injection timing is too late. 3. Adjust.
4. Insufficient compression. 4. See LOW COMPRESSION; HARD STARTING.
BLACKISH OR DARK GRAYISH
1. Engine body troubles.
a. Poor compression. a. See LOW COMPRESSION; HARD STARTING.
b. Improper valve clearance. b. Adjust.
2. Insufficient intake air. 2. Clean air intake silencer.
3. Improper fuel. 3. Replace with proper fuel.
ABNORMAL SOUND CRANKSHAFT AND MAIN BEARING
OR NOISE 1. Badly worn bearing. 1. Replace bearing and grind crankshaft.
2. Badly worn crankshaft. 2. Grind crankshaft.
3. Melted bearing. 3. Replace bearing and check lubrication system.
CONNECTING ROD AND CONNECTING ROD BEARING
1. Worn connecting rod big end bearing. 1. Replace bearing.
2. Worn crankpin. 2. Grind crankshaft.
3. Bent connecting rod. 3. Correct bend or replace.
PISTON, PISTON PIN, AND PISTON RING
1. worn cylinder. Rebore cylinder to oversize and replace piston. Panlage piston.
2. Worn piston pin. 2. Replace piston.
  1. Piston seized and ringe warm an demograd
Replace piston and repore cylinder. Paplace piston and ringe
1. WOITI Camistian. 2 Adjust
2. Excessive valve clearance. 3 Replace
4 Worn fan nullev bearing
(HUNTING) 1 Uneven injection 1. Adjust injection or replace parts.
(nonina) 2. Control rack malfunctioning
  1. Disassemble, check and correct injection pump.
3. Worn delivery valve. 3. Replace.
4. Inadequate injection nozzle sprav. 4. Replace injection nozzle.
GOVERNOR SYSTEM
1. Governor lever malfunctioning. 1. Check governor shaft and correct operation.
2. Fatiqued governor spring. 2. Replace.

Page 21
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE VERIFICATION/REMEDY
KNOCKING ENGINE KNOCKS WITHOUT MUCH SMOKE
1. Faulty injector. 1. Foul exhaust – rebuild injector.
2. Bent rod. 2. Fuelish exhaust – check compression, repair.
3. Main engine troubles.
a. Overheated cylinder. a. See OVERHEATING; LOW OUTPUT.
b. Carbon deposits in cylinder. b. Clean.
4. Too early injection timing. 4. Correct.
5. Too high injection pressure. 5. Correct.
6. Improper fuel. 4. Replace with proper fuel.
KNOCKING WITH DARK SMOKE
1. Poor compression. 1. See LOW COMPRESSION; HARD STARTING.
2. Injection pump malfunctioning.
a. Worn plunger. a. Replace.
b. Pinion is not in mesh with control rack. b. Correct.
c. Broken delivery valve spring. c. Replace.
d. Worn delivery valve seat. d. Replace.
3. Improper nozzle.
a. Poor spray. a. Clean or replace nozzle.
b. Poor chattering. b. Repair or replace nozzle.
c. After-injection drip. c. Repair or replace nozzle.
d. Nozzle needle valve seized. d. Replace.
INTERMITTENT 1. Fuel filter clogged. 1. Clean or replace.
EXHAUST SOUND 2. Fuel pipe sucks air. 2. Retighten pipe joints or replace pipe.
3. Water mixed in fuel 3. Replace fuel.
OVERHEATING 1. V-belt slackening or slippery with oil. 1. Adjust, replace or clean.
2. Damaged water pump. 2. Replace.
3. Lack of coolant. 3. Add.
4. Faulty thermostat. 4. Replace.
5. Low oil level or poor oil quality. 5. Add or change.
6. Knocking. 6. See KNOCKING.
7. Moving parts seized or damaged. 7. Replace.

Page 22

ENGINE PARTS IDENTIFICATION

2-CYLINDER MODELS

Page 23

ENGINE PARTS IDENTIFICATION

3-CYLINDER MODELS

Page 24

CYLINDER HEAD

CONSTRUCTION

The cylinder head is of an overhead valve type made of high-rigidity special cast iron and has an excellent cooling effect. The cross-flow type cylinder head, provided with its intake port on the right-hand side and the exhaust port on the left-hand side, ensures high intake-exhaust efficiency.

The precombustion chamber is of a swirl chamber type ( Ricardo ) made of heat resisting steel and is press fitted in the cylinder head. This chamber, therefore, requires no disassembly.

Intake and exhaust valve guides are made of sintered alloy and are commonly usable in either port. The valve guides are oil-impregnated to improve wear resistance.

Valve seats , when needed, can be installed by a competent and knowledgeable machine shop.

The cylinder head gasket is made of carbon graphite. It is provided with stainless steel sheet grommets around the bores for improved heat and pressure resistance. The gasket requires no sealant when assembled.

Intake valves are made of heat-resisting steel and have a large-diameter head to provide greater intake efficiency. The heads of the exhaust valves are protected against high temperatures by a special heat-resisting steel facing welded to the valve head.

Valve springs are coated with red enamel which marks the rocker arm end to aid in proper placement of the spring during assembly. The spring retainer and retainer lock are common to intake and exhaust valves. The valve stem seal at the top of the valve guide prevents downward seepage of oil into the combustion chamber. The high speed engines (3000 rpm and over) are provided with a valve spring seat between the valve springs and cylinder head.

Rocker arm, rocker shaft and stay. The rocker arms are made of special cast iron and are gas carbonized on the entire surface. An oil hole is on the upper side of each arm. The rocker arm shaft is a carbon steel tube, the interior of which forms a lubricant passage. The rocker arm area of the shaft is induction-hardened. Three rocker shaft stays of aluminum alloy casting are used. The rearmost stay forms an oil passage connected to the cylinder head. The rear stay is identical to the front stay.

Page 25

CYLINDER HEAD

Intake manifold and exhaust manifold. An intake manifold with its gasket is on the right side of the cylinder head and an exhaust manifold is on the left side of the cylinder head. The shape of each manifold depends on the engine model.

The crankcase vent system allows blowby gases produced in the cylinder block to circulate inside the engine, thus preventing them from exhausting. This system leads blowby gases from the cylinder block through tappet holes and push rod holes into the rocker cover and, further, through the air breather pipe (rubber pipe) into the air intake manifold, so that blowby gases are carried into the combustion chamber and are burned during combustion.

3-Cylinder Engines

Page 26

CYLINDER HEAD SERVICE

DISASSEMBLY

  • 1. Remove the air breather pipe. Remove the water bypass hose if provided.
  • 2. Remove the fuel injection lines.
  • 3. Remove both the intake manifold and exhaust manifold assemblies.
  • 4. Remove the rocker cover.
  • 5. Remove the rocker arms and rocker shaft as an assembly.
  • 6. Remove the push rods.
  • 7. Remove the cylinder head assembly by loosening the head bolts in the numerical order shown below.

2-Cylinder Engines

CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS LOOSENING SEQUENCE 3-Cylinder Engines

  • 8. Remove the cylinder head gasket.
  • 9 . Partly disassemble the cylinder head assembly as follows:
    • a. Remove the thermostat housing. Remove the thermostat and thermostat gasket.
    • b. Remove the fuel injectors and sealing washers.
    • c. Remove the glow plug lead wires and remove the glow plugs.
    • d. Using a valve spring compresser, compress the spring for each valve. Remove the retainer lock and then remove the retainer, spring and valve. Place the removed valves and other parts in order by each cylinder.
    • e. A valve spring seat of 2mm thick for each spring is fitted on the cylinder head surface. Be careful not to lose the spring seats.

INSPECTION

Cylinder Head

NOTE: See SERVICE STANDARDS for tolerances and measurements.

  • 1. Before cleaning the cylinder head, check it for cracks, damage and water leaks.
  • 2. Hot tank the cylinder head to thoroughly clean all surfaces and oil passages.
  • 3. Check the lower surface of the cylinder head for distortion using a straightedge and a feeler gauge.

CHECKING CYLINDER HEAD DISTORTION

Valve Guide

  • 1. Check the valve stem-to-guide clearance. If the replacement value is reached, replace the valve guide and valve.
  • 2. To remove an existing guide, press it upward with a driver from under the cylinder head. To install a new guide, press it into the top of the cylinder head with a driver until the specified height is obtained.

Valve Seat

ESTERB

20

1. Check each valve seat for damage and improper contact. If necessary, correct it as shown in the illustration. After correction, lap the valve into the seat using lapping compound.

Page 27

CYLINDER HEAD SERVICE

NOTE: Correction of a valve seat should be done after the valve guide has been checked, and if necessary, replaced.

  • 2. If the valve seat sinkage reaches the replacement value (see SERVICE STANDARDS ), install a new valve seat.
  • 3. Check the valve seat sinkage by measuring the installed length of each valve assembly. When measuring the size up to the top of the valve spring retainer, include retainer thickness (at the collar) of 2 ± 0.25 mm.

4. Check the valve seat inserts if provided, for proper fit. Replace any that fit loosely.

Valve

  • 1. Check the valve face and stem for excessive wear, damage and distortion. If there is any, correct or replace the valve.
  • 2. If the replacement value of the valve head thickness is reached, replace the valve.
  • 3. Check each valve stem for wear and pitting in the areas shown by the arrows in the illustration. If necessary, correct or replace the valve.

Valve Spring

  • 1. Check the valve springs for cracks and damage.
  • 2. Measure the free length and load of each spring. Replace the spring if excessively deteriorated.

CHECKING FREE LENGTH OF VALVE SPRING

NOTE: The thickness of the valve spring retainer collar is 1.7 ± 0.3 mm.

3. Check the squareness of each spring. Replace the spring if it tilts excessively.

Rocker Arm and Rocker Shaft

  • 1. Check the valve contact surface of each rocker arm for excessive wear and damage. If there is any, replace the rocker arm. Check the push rod contact surface of each adjusting screw for wear and damage. If there is any, replace the screw.
  • 2. Measure the rocker arm I.D. and shaft O.D. If the difference between them is excessive, replace the rocker arm.

Page 28

CYLINDER HEAD SERVICE

REASSEMBLY

To reassamble the cylinder head, reverse the order of disassembly, taking care to observe the following instructions.

Partial Reassembly

  • 1. Press in the valve guides to the specified height. (For the installation procedure, see Valve Guide .)
  • 2. Install the valve stem seals securely on the valve guide.
  • 3. Apply oil to the valve stems and insert them into the valve guides. Install the springs, retainers and retainer locks in that order.
  • 4. To assemble the rocker arms and shaft, place the rocker shaft in such a manner that the identification mark ($\phi3$ mm hole) at the front end of the shaft faces toward the front of the engine. Install the front-most rocker arm and retain it with a snap ring. In a similar manner, install the other rocker arms, one after another. Finally, install the rear-most rocker arm and retain it with a snap ring. Then install the assembly on the cylinder head. When tightening the front and rear stays, be sure to install the bolt seats and washers.

INSTALLING ROCKER ARMS ON ROCKER SHAFT

  • 5. Tighten the glow plugs to the specified torque.
  • 6. Install the nozzle holders and tighten the bolts temporarily. After installing the high pressure injection lines, retighten the bolts evenly to the specified torque. Do not reuse any sealing washers.
  • 7. Install the glow plug lead wires. (The glow plugs are a taper sealed type; they do not require gaskets.)
Installation of Cylinder Head Assembly

  • 1. Install the cylinder head assembly with a new gasket. The gasket does not require any sealant.
  • 2. Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the specified torque in the numerical order shown in the illustration. Start with a slight torquing of the bolts, and after two or three stages of moderate torquing, finally tighten to the specified torque (see TECHNICAL DATA ). (Be sure to use a torque wrench.)

3. Be sure to use only new gaskets and packings. Apply sealant to the specified sealing points.

Valve Clearance Adjustment
A Models

/ESTERBI

With the piston of each cylinder at top dead center (T.D.C.) of its compression stoke, adjust the valve clearance to the specified value using a feeler gauge between the valve stem tip and the rocker arm face using the adjusting screw.

B, C and D Models

Position the piston in #1 cylinder at the top of its compression stroke. Observe the valves and timing mark on the front crankshaft pulley (T.D.C.) when doing this. Adjust the valve clearances for cylinder #1. Rotate the crankshaft 240° in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and adjust the valves for the next cylinder in the engine's firing order, cylinder #3. Rotate the crankshaft another 240° and adjust the valves for cylinder #2.

NOTE: For additional information, see Adjusting Valve Clearance under ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS.

ADJUSTING VALVE CLEARANCE

Page 29

CYLINDER BLOCK

CONSTRUCTION

The special iron casting cylinder block is of a full jacket type in which cylinder liners are integrated with the cylinder block.

The main bearings are made of metal-backed copper sintered alloy ( Kelmet ) and an aluminum alloy. To improve runin characteristics, they are coated with a lead-tin alloy plating on the journal surface, and tin flash-plating on the journal surface and tin flash-plating over the entire bearing surface. Crankshaft thrust is received by the flanged center bearing. On the front bearing area of the camshaft, a metal-backed special copper alloy rolled bushing is pressfitted.

The crankshaft is a precision-forging of carbon steel, which is supported by four bearings to provide high rigidity. Journals, pins and oil seal contact areas are induction-hard-ened to improve wear resistance and durability.

The flywheel is made of cast iron, and the ring gear is made of carbon steel and is shrinkage-fitted to the flywheel. The gear teeth are induction-hardened.

The pistons are made of an aluminum alloy to reduce engine weight and to decrease bearing load during high-speed operation. Each piston forms a tapered cylinder with elliptical cross section contour so as to obtain the best contact with the cylinder bore. The piston crown surface has a cavity to improve fuel combustion.

The piston pins are hollow, carbonized forgings. When connecting a piston to its rod, a piston pin is press-fitted into the small end of the rod.

The piston rings are made of special cast iron. Each piston is provided with three (two, for D Models) compression rings and one oil ring. The outside surfaces of the top compression rings and oil rings are hard chrome plated. The top rings are of the semi-keystone type and the oil rings are provided with a coil expander.

The connecting rod has an I-beam cross section and a horizontally split big end to provide high rigidity.

The big end bearing is made of a metal-backed special copper alloy (except some Model C engines and all Model D engines which use a special aluminum alloy) and is flash-plated all over.

The front plate and gear case. The steel front plate is positioned by a dowel pin located in the upper part of the camshaft area and a dowel pin in the lower part of the injection pump area. It is bolted to the cylinder block through a gasket. On the left end rear surface, the lube oil pump gear bearing housing is installed together with the gear case. The aluminum casting gear case is attached to the front end surface of the cylinder block through the front plate. The case houses the lube oil pump front bearing and the governor related parts. It serves also as a camshaft and idler gear thrust stopper.

Page 30

CYLINDER BLOCK

The Camshaft and Timing Gears. The camshaft is a high carbon steel forging. The cam surface and journals are induction hardened to improve wear resistance. The shaft is supported on three bearings: the front bearing is a bush bearing (with the exception of a bushless bearing for engines produced in the initial period of production), while the middle and rear bearings are in the holes cut in the cylinder block. All bearings are lubricated by a forced lubrication system. The camshaft rear journal has a slot for intermittently lubricating the rocker arms through the cylinder head. The rear end of the shaft is provided with an oil escape hole to let excess oil return to the oil pan.

The helical timing gears are finished by shaving and crowning to provide high durability and to reduce chattering.

2-Cylinder Engine

TIMING GEARS 3-Cylinder Engines

Valve timing is as follows.

VALVE TIMING
Intake valve opens (BTDC) 18°
Exhaust valve closes (ATDC) 18°
Intake valve closes (ABDC) 46°
Exhaust valve opens (BBDC) 46°

The tappet and push rod. The tubular type tappets are chillhardened at the bottom and gas-carbonized at low temperature over the entire surface to improve wear resistance. Each tappet is offset from the cam center to prevent uneven wear of the tappet bottom. The steel-bar push rods are flame-hardened at each end.

The injection pump camshaft is made of high carbon steel. Its cam surfaces are inductionhardened to improve wear resistance. The front end of the shaft supported on a ball bearing is connected to a gear. The rear end is provided with an Oldham's coupling groove for connecting to the oil pump drive shaft.

INJECTION PUMP CAMSHAFT 3-Cylinder shown

The high-pressure oil pump is directly coupled to the injection pump camshaft at the rear of the shaft, mating into the Oldham's coupling groove.

The sheet metal oil sump has an oil drain hose that routes from the lube oil drain plug to a bracket at the front side of the engine.

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DISASSEMBLY

A Models

  • 1. For the removal of the cylinder head and related parts, refer to DISASSEMBLY under CYLINDER HEAD SERVICE .
  • 2. For removal of the injection pump, water pump and electrical equipment, refer to their respective sections.
  • 3. For the removal of the oil filter and oil pump, refer to LUBRICATION SYSTEM SERVICE .
  • 4. Remove the push rods, then pull the tappets upward out of the crankcase.
  • 5. Remove the oil pan and gasket.
  • 6. Remove the flywheel.
  • 7. Loosen the crankshaft pulley nut, and remove the pulley and washer.
  • 8. Remove the gear case and gasket.
  • 9. Remove the oil pump gear.
  • 10. Remove the governor weight assembly, then remove the snap ring and the governor gear.
  • 11. Draw out the camshaft and gear from the crankcase.

2-Cylinder shown

  • 12. Remove the sleeve, crankshaft gear, plate and thrust washer.
  • 13. Remove the connecting rod cap. Draw out the piston and connecting rod upward.

Note: Keep the rod caps and bearings in order near each cylinder to ensure they will be reassembled in their original order. Mark them as needed.

  • 14. Remove the bearing housing from the crankcase.
  • 15. With the crankshaft counterweight positioned in the cut of the crankshaft hole in the crankcase, draw the crankshaft out carefully so the main bearings will not be damaged.

B, C and D Models

  • 1. For removal of the cylinder head and related parts, refer to DISASSEMBLY under CYLINDER HEAD SERVICE .
  • 2. For removal of the water pump and electrical equipment, refer to their respective sections.
  • 3. Pull off the push rods, then pull out the tappets upward.
  • 4. Remove the fuel filter.
  • 5. Loosen the crankshaft pulley nut, then take off the pulley and washer.
  • 6. Loosen the flywheel mounting bolts and remove the flywheel.
  • 7. Remove the back plate and rear oil seal case.
  • 8. Remove the lube oil pump gear bearing housing. Remove the gear case, but first it is necessary to remove the tierod located at the right front (beside the injection pump) of the cylinder block and to remove the stopper spring and tie-rod from the injection pump's fuel rack.

CAUTION: Be sure to separate the injection pump rack from the tie-rod before removing the gear case. The front plate is bolted to the cylinder block from inside the gear case; therefore, be careful not to drive out the gear case together with the front plate. Also, be careful not to damage the dowel pins.

  • 9. Remove the fuel injection pump.
  • 10. Remove the governor weight bolts. Remove the weights.
  • 11. Remove the pump camshaft bolt.
  • 12. Remove the oil filter and the oil pump assembly. Then pull out the injection pump camshaft.
  • 13. Remove the gears. Then remove the front plate.
  • 14. Remove the camshaft.
  • 15. Turn the engine upside down. Remove the oil pan and oil screen.

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  • 16. Remove the nuts from the big end of each connecting rod and remove the cap. Push the piston and connecting rod assembly upward out of the cylinder block. Keep the removed parts in order for each cylinder. When pushing out the piston and connecting rod assembly, put a wooden block against the cap mating surface of the rod so as not to damage the metal surface.
  • Remove the main bearing caps. Keep the caps and bearings in order for each cylinder. It is necessary to measure the crankshaft end play before removing the caps (see Crankshaft , para. 3., under CYLINDER BLOCK SER-VICE ). Mark the caps and rod with a number punch 1 4 as needed.

18. Remove the crankshaft.

Removing Piston Pin

When separating the piston from the connecting rod, use the following procedures. Keep the disassembled parts in order for each set. Take care to prevent confusion, especially for each set of piston and wrist pin.

A, B and C Models

  • 1. Set the piston and connecting rod assembly on the special tool (piston pin setting tool) body.
  • 2. Insert the push rod of the tool into the piston pin hole and press the pin out.

CAUTION: Do not hammer a piston pin to remove it. A stuck piston pin which requires excessive pulling force should be replaced. Do not apply a load of more than 3,000 kg to the piston pin setting tool.

REMOVING PISTON PIN

D Models

  • 1. Remove the snap ring from each end of the piston.
  • 2 Using a piston heater, heat the piston for about 5 minutes in an oil bath of about 80°C. Then remove the piston from the oil bath and pull out the piston pin.

INSPECTION

Cylinder Block

Check the cylinder block for cracks and damage. If there is any, repair or replace the block. Check the camshaft front journal bushing for wear and damage. If there is any, replace the bushing using a special tool (Tool #033583).

If the journal mating part in the cylinder block is damaged on an engine without a bushing at the front end of the camshaft, machine the indicated dimension of the hole and press-fit the bushing in place. For bushing installation procedure, see CYLINDER BLOCK SERVICE, REASSEMBLY (early engines only).

A CAUTION: Force out the bushing in the cylinder block using an appropriate bushing drift. Be careful not to damage the tappet hole.

When machining the bushing installation hole, the $\ophi48$ mm ($\ophi1.8998") hole is to be parallel and concentric within 0.1 mm (0.0039") to the $\ophi45$ mm ($\ophi1.7717") hole.

  • 2. Check the water jacket for scale and corrosion. Clean the block thoroughly and ensure that all oil passages are clean.
  • 3. Check the cylinder walls for scratches, dents and wear. If necessary, repair by honing or boring. Measure the cylinder bore in right-angled directions A and B at three different depths.
  • 4. When cylinder bore wear is not excessive and only the piston rings require replacement, check the upper part of the cylinder for ridge wear. If any exists, ream the cylinder bore and hone when necessary.

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HECKING CYLINDER WEAR

Piston, Piston Pin and Piston Rings

  • 1. Check the piston for seizing, scratches and wear. If necessary, replace the piston.
  • 2. Measure the piston O.D. Replace the piston if excessively worn. If the piston-to-cylinder clearance is excessively large, machine the cylinder to an oversize bore or replace the piston. The piston O.D. should be measured at the lower end of the skirt at right angles to the axis of the piston pin hole.

3. Measure the side clearance between each piston ring and its groove. If necessary, replace the ring.

As to the semi-keystone type top ring, allow it to sink by its own weight into the groove, then measure its depth from the piston surface.

PISTON RING SIDE CLEARANCE

4. Measure the gap of each piston ring. Replace the ring if its gap is excessively large. To measure the ring gap, insert a ring into the least worn place of the cylinder bore (skirt) using a piston and measure the gap with a feeler gauge.

MEASURING PISTON RING GAP CLEARANCE

Connecting Rod

  • 1. Using a connecting rod aligner, check each connecting rod for bending and distortion. If necessary, correct or replace the rod.
  • 2. Measure the connecting rod thrust clearance with a rod assembled on the crankshaft. If the clearance is excessive, replace the rod assembly.

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Crankshaft

1. Measure the crankshaft bend, If excessive, repair or replace the crankshaft.

2. Check the crankshaft journals and pins for damage, seizure and other faults. If excessively worn or damaged, machine to the undersize diameter. At the same time, replace the corresponding main bearing or connecting rod bearing with the same undersize bearing. When machining a crankshaft journal or pin to the undersize one, be sure to finish its fillets to R2.5 mm. Check that all oil passages in the crankshaft are clean and open.

FILLET RADIUS ON CRANKPIN & JOURNAL

3. Check the crankshaft end play. If the specified limit is exceeded, replace the flanged No. 3 main bearing. To check the end play, install the main bearings, crankshaft and main bearing caps, then tighten the cap bolts to the specified torque. Measure the end play with a dial gauge held against the front end of the crankshaft.

Main Bearings and Connecting Rod Bearings

Check the surface of each bearing for flaking, melting, seizing and poor contact. If any of these conditions exist, replace the bearing.

A Models

ESTERBE

28

When replacing the main bearings, use the special bearing installer tool.

  • 1. Removing the main bearing. To remove the main bearing, put the guide ring onto the installer body as illustrated. Remove the main bearing from the bearing housing by pushing from the front toward the rear. Also remove the main bearing from the rear of the crankcase by pushing inward from the rear after removing the oil seal.
  • 2. Installing the main bearing . Before installing the main bearing, apply engine oil to the bearing's outside surface. Be sure to use a press to install the bearing. Do not hammer the bearing.

To install the main bearing, assemble the main bearing, installer body and guide ring as illustrated, and then press-in the bearing in the same direction as it was removed.

Page 35

The main bearing must be pressed-in in such a way that the crankcase oil hole and bearing oil hole line up. The housing body has a marking on its collar. Set the bearing with the oil hole properly aligned with this marking, and then press in with the oil hole aligned with the crankcase oil hole. After setting, do not turn the tool and bearing. Be sure that the main bearing is pressed in with the outer area of the main bearing above the crankcase center.

B, C and D Models

Fit the main bearings to the cylinder block and the connecting rod bearings to the connecting rods. Tighten the bolts to specification. Measure the I.D. of each bearing. Then measure the O.D. of the crankshaft journals and pins to calculate the oil clearance (a plastigauge may be used). If any oil clearance is excessive, replace the corresponding bearing. If an excessive clearance still remains even after replacement of the bearing, grind the crankshaft to the undersize O.D. and install the same undersize bearing.

Gearcase

Check the gearcase body for cracks and damage, and the oil seal for damage. Also check the governor related parts. If the camshaft thrust plug press-fitted in the gearcase has been worn or damaged, install a new thrust plug.

Timing Gears and Lube Oil Pump Gear

Check each gear for poor contact, wear and damage. If there is any, replace the gear. Also check the splined bore of the lube oil pump gear for faults.

Camshaft

Measure the clearance between the center journal and the cylinder block, and between the rear journal and the cylinder block. If either or both clearances are excessive, replace the camshaft, front bushing or cylinder block. Replace the camshaft if the cam surface is damaged or the cam lobe is badly worn.

MEASURING CAM LUBE HEIGHT

Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft

Replace the camshaft if the cam surface is excessively worn or damaged or if the Oldham's coupling is damaged.

MEASURING INJECTION PUMP CAMSHAFT LOBE

Ball Bearings

Check each ball bearing for excessive wear or damage and for irregular or noisy rotation. If there is any, replace the bearing.

Tappets

  • 1. Check the bottom of each tappet for cracks, flaking and nicks. If any of these conditions exist, replace the tappet.
  • 2. Check the clearance between each tappet and the cylinder block. If any clearance exceeds the specified limit, replace the tappet.

Push Rods

  • 1. Replace a push rod if both its ends are excessively worn.
  • 2. Place each push rod on a surface plate and check for bending at the center of the rod. If the bend exceeds the specified limit, correct or replace the rod.

Page 36

REASSEMBLY — A MODELS

A CAUTION: Clean each part sufficiently. Clean oil passages, sliding surfaces and rotating parts with special care.

Before assembling, apply engine oil to all sliding, rotating and press-fit parts such as bearings and cylinder inner walls.

Replace gaskets, packings and oil seals with new ones.

Apply sealant to gaskets and packings, and to the specified sealing points.

Observe tightening torque and sequence where specified. For other parts, tighten to the torque for ordinary screws or bolts as the torque table specifies.

Check clearances and end plays during assembly work.

  • 1. Assemble the piston and the connecting rod using the piston pin setting tool.
    • a. Insert a piston pin into the push rod of the tool, then screw a guide (see illustration for proper guide) fully into the push rod.
    • b. Insert the assembled push rod, piston pin and guide into the piston pin hole from the guide side, and into the small end of the connecting rod. In this case, both the arrow (front mark) on the piston head and the identification mark on the connecting rod are to be positioned upward. Before insertion, apply engine oil to the piston pin and to the connecting rod small end hole.

  • c. Set the piston, connecting rod and guide as an assembly on the tool body. When setting, insert the tool guide into the tool body with the cut in the guide in alignment with that in the tool body and then turn the guide 90°. Make certain the small end of the connecting rod rests properly on the tool body. Also, confirm that the front mark on the piston head and identification mark on the connecting rod face up.
  • d. Press the piston pin in under a pressure of 500 to 1500 kg. If the piston pin is easily pressed in with less pressure than above, or if the pin needs a greater pressure, replace the connecting rod or the piston and pin assembly. The piston pin will be positioned in place by the guide. After installation, turn the push rod 90° so that the cut in the guide comes in alignment with the cut in the tool body. Detach the piston and connecting rod assembly from the tool body.

PISTON PIN SETTING TOOL PN 033582 A-Models only

CAUTION: After assembling the piston and connecting rod, make certain the connecting rod small end is properly positioned at the center of the piston pin. If any excessive deviation from the proper position is found, correct it. In this case, check the piston pin setting tool also.

Each piston and its pin are matched parts and, therefore, a set of piston and pin must not be confused with other pistons and pins. All pistons and pins to be used in an engine must be of the same size (same mark).

Piston rings differ in shape from one another. Be sure to install them in their proper positions and directions, as illustrated, and with the stamped manufacturer mark and size mark facing up.

When installing the piston ring with a coil expander, position the expander joint opposite to the ring-gap position.

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31

  • 3. Insert the crankshaft into the crankcase. Apply engine oil to the main bearings and crankshaft journals. Be careful not to damage the main bearings.
  • 4. Install the bearing housing with the tongue of the inside thrust bearing properly fitted in a notch in the bearing housing.

CAUTION: Thrust bearings, inside and outside, are identical. However, before installation, measure their thickness to confirm that they are within the standard size. From this the crankshaft end play can be specified.

5. Install the outside thrust bearing in the bearing bore in the bearing housing, then install the stopper plate, crankshaft gear and sleeve. Install the stopper plate with the chamfered side facing toward the rear of the engine. Install the crankshaft gear with the stepped side facing toward the rear of the engine. Also install the sleeve with the chamfered square end toward the front of the engine.

INSTALLING CRANKSHAFT GEAR & SLEEVE

6. Temporarily install the sleeve stopper, washer (except for the P.T.O. pulley) and crankshaft pulley. Tighten the nut. Check the crankshaft end play. If the end play exceeds the specified value, recheck the thrust bearing. Also check that the crankshaft gear and sleeve are properly installed. After checking the end play, loosen the nut and remove the pulley and washer.

HECKING CRANKSHAFT END PLAY

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7. Insert the piston and connecting rod assembly from above into the cylinder using a ring band. At this time, make certain that the piston ring ends are properly positioned and that the arrow mark on the piston head is directed toward the front of the engine. In older models the arrow faces toward the combustion chamber. After insertion, install the rod metal in proper position and tighten the rod cap to the specified torque.

8. Assemble the camshaft gear to the camshaft and retain it with a key. Insert the camshaft into the crankcase with the crankshaft gear mating mark and camshaft gear mating mark properly aligned as illustrated.

TIMING GEAR MATING MARKS

9. Install the governor gear. Install a snap ring onto the shaft. Then install the governor weight assembly and sliding shaft.

INSTALLING THE GOVERNOR

  • 10. Install the oil pump drive gear (with ball bearing).
  • 11. Attach a gasket coated with the specified sealant to the gear case, then install the gear case with the governor linkage assembled to it.
  • 12. Install the crankshaft pulley. Be sure to install the crankshaft spacer stopper washer and crankshaft pulley washer.
  • 13. Install the flywheel and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
  • 14. Install the oil pan.
  • 15. Insert the tappet.
  • 16. Install the cylinder head assembly.
  • 17. Install the injection pump assembly.

INSTALLING INJECTION PUMP

  • 18. Install the oil pump and oil filter. When the oil pressure switch has not been installed yet, apply sealant to its threaded portion, and install.
  • 19. Install the fuel filter.
  • 20. Install the water pump.
  • 21. Install the starter and alternator.

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WESTERBEKE

REASSEMBLY — B, C and D MODELS

A CAUTION: Clean each part sufficiently. Clean oil passages, sliding surfaces and rotating parts with special care.

Before assembling, apply engine oil to all sliding, rotating and press-fit parts such as bearings and cylinder inner walls.

Replace gaskets, packings and oil seals with new ones.

Apply sealant to gaskets and packings, and to the specified sealing points.

Observe tightening torque and sequence where specified. For other parts, tighten to the torque for ordinary screws or bolts as the torque table specifies.

Check clearances and end plays during assembly work.

1. When the camshaft front bushing is pressed in, align the bushing oil hole with the oil hole in the cylinder block using a bushing installing tool. For proper alignment, make a mark indicating the block's oil hole position on the front end face of the block. After installing the bushing, confirm that the oil holes are properly aligned with each other.

PRESS-FITTING CAMSHAFT BUSHING

When pressing in the idler gear shaft, follow the alignment and length of protrusion shown in the diagram. Failure to do so will result in low oil pressure during engine operation.

PRESS-FITTING IDLER GEAR SHAFT

3. When replacing the dipstick guide, coat the new guide (without a flange) with HERMESEAL 52B sealant, then press-fit into the cylinder block. Press-fit to a height of 30 ± 0.5 mm (1.1811" ± 0.0197") from the cylinder block surface. When installing the former type of guide, which is increased in diameter at the midpoint, press it in until caught in the hole. (There is no difference in the press-fit position between the former type and later type

PRESS-FITTING DIPSTICK GUIDE INTO BLOCK

4. Install the main bearings to the cylinder block.

NOTE: The oil ports must be properly positioned and the bearing fitted correctly into the block recess.

  • 5. Install the crankshaft. Apply engine oil to the journals and pins.
  • 6. Install the main bearing caps and tighten the cap bolts to the specified torque. Each cap carries an embossed arrow mark and numeral to prevent incorrect installation of the caps. When installing the No. 1 and No. 4 caps, apply sealant to the upper surface (cylinder block mating surface).

MAIN BEARING CAPS

Page 40

  • 7. Check the crankshaft end play.
  • 8. Apply sealant to the outside surface of both side seals. Press the side seals into the front and rear caps, thus completing the reassembly of the crankshaft.

  • 9. Install the oil seal into the crankshaft rear oil seal case. Install the seal case to the cylinder block. Remember to install the gasket. Turn the crankshaft one complete revolution to ensure there is no unwanted binding.
  • 10. Install the back plate.
  • 11. Install the flywheel. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
  • 12. Assemble the piston and the connecting rod.
B and C Models

a. Use the Piston Pin Setting Tool. Insert a piston pin into the push rod of the tool, then screw a guide (see illustration for proper guide) fully into the push rod.

  • b. Insert the assembled push rod, piston pin and guide into the piston pin hole from the guide side, and into the small end of the connecting rod. In this case, both the arrow (front mark) on the piston head and the identification mark on the connecting rod are to be positioned upward. Before insertion, apply engine oil to the piston pin and to the connecting rod small end hole.
  • c. Set the piston, connecting rod and guide as an assembly on the tool body. When setting, insert the tool guide into the tool body with the cut in the guide in alignment with that in the tool body and then turn the guide 90°. Make certain the small end of the connecting rod rests properly on the tool body. Also, confirm that the front mark on the piston head and identification mark on the connecting rod face up.
  • d. Press the piston pin in under a pressure of 500 to 1500 kg. If the piston pin is easily pressed in with less pressure than above, or if the pin needs a greater pressure, replace the connecting rod or the piston and pin assembly. The piston pin will be positioned in place by the guide. After installation, turn the push rod 90° so that the cut in the guide comes in alignment with the cut in the tool body. Detach the piston and connecting rod assembly from the tool body.
Page 41

CAUTION: After assembling the piston and connecting rod, make certain the connecting rod small end is properly positioned at the center of the piston pin. If any excessive deviation from the proper position is found, correct it. In this case, check the piston pin setting tool also.

Each piston and its pin are matched parts and, therefore, a set of piston and pin must not be confused with other pistons and pins. All pistons and pins to be used in an engine must be of the same size (same mark).

D Models

When assembling the piston and connecting rod for D Models, heat the piston at 80°C for about 5 minutes in oil using a piston heater. After installing the piston pin, lock with a snap ring at each end of the pin.

13. Piston rings differ in shape from one another. Be sure to install them in their proper positions and directions, as illustrated, and with the stamped manufacturer mark and size mark facing up.

When installing the piston ring with a coil expander, position the expander joint opposite to the ring gap position.

PISTON RINI Positions

  • 14. Install the piston and connecting rod assembly from the top of the cylinder block using a ring band. In this case, make certain the piston ring gaps are properly positioned and the arrow mark on the piston faces the front of the engine. After insertion, install the connecting rod end halves in place and tighten the rod cap bolts to the specified torque. Apply oil to the bearing surfaces before assembly of the connecting rod ends.
  • 15. Install the front plate. Remember to install the gasket and dowel pin.
  • 16. Turn the crankshaft until the No. 1 cylinder piston comes to the top dead center.
  • 17. Align the keyway in the crankshaft gear with the key on the crankshaft. Install the gear on the shaft.
  • 18. Align the mating mark "1" on the idler gear with that on the crankshaft gear; install the idler gear on the idler shaft. Insert the camshaft and gear assembly into the cylinder block so that the mating mark "2" on the camshaft gear aligns with that on the idler gear. Then insert the injection pump camshaft assembly into the cylinder block and align the mating mark "3" on the pump gear with that on the idler gear. Finally, install the injection pump drive shaft gear assembly.

  • 19. Confirm that mating marks on the gears are in proper alignment with each other.
  • 20. Fit the governor weight assembly to the injection pump cam gear.

Page 42

21. Install the gear case (with the governor and related parts previously installed) and gasket. When installing the gear case, insert the tie-rod and tie-rod stopper spring into the hole in the cylinder block so to position it next to the injection pump fuel rack.

  • 22. Insert the crankshaft pulley. Install the washer and nut. Then tighten to the specified torque.
  • 23. Install the back plate. Be sure to install the gasket.
  • 24. Install the oil pick up, then install the oil pan.
  • 25. Apply oil to the periphery of the tappet. Insert the tappet into the cylinder block. Then insert the push rod properly into the tappet hole. Check to see if the tappet moves lightly.

INSTALLING TAPPET AND PUSH ROD

  • 26. Install the cylinder head assembly (see CYLINDER HEAD SERVICE, REASSEMBLY ).
  • 27. Install the injection pump assembly (see Installation and Adjustment of Fuel Injection Pump under FUEL SYSTEM).

INSTALLING INJECTION PUMP

  • 28. Install the oil pump and oil filter (see REASSEMBLY under LUBRICATION SYSTEM SERVICE ). When the oil pressure switch and oil pressure sender with adapter has not yet been installed, apply sealant to the threaded portion when installing.
  • 29. Install the fuel filter.
  • 30. Install the fresh water pump.
  • 31. Install the starter (see STARTER/SOLENOID SERVICE ) and alternator (see ALTERNATOR/REGULATOR SERVICE ).
  • 32. Install the raw water pump.

Page 43

GOVERNOR

DESCRIPTION

The governor keeps engine speed constant by using a balance between the centrifugal force acting on the governor weights and the tension of the governor spring.

If engine speed increases, the governor weights will open, forcing the sliding shaft forward. This moves the injection pump fuel rack, linked to the sliding shaft through the governor lever assembly, tie-rod and spring, in the direction that injects less fuel into the cylinders. The movement is stopped at a point where the centrifugal force of the governor weights balances with the tension of the governor spring.

If engine speed is decreased by an overload, the control rack is pushed against the smoke set spring in the direction that injects more fuel. The Angleich mechanism restricts the increase and quantity of fuel injection thus preventing overload, saving fuel, and decreasing exhaust smoke.

DISASSEMBLY

  • 1. Remove the drive belt (see FRESH WATER COOLING SERVICE).
  • 2. Remove the crankshaft pulley nut and remove the pulley.

  • 3. Remove the fuel injection pump (see Fuel Injection Pump under FUEL SYSTEM ).
  • 4. Remove the gear case mounting bolts and remove the gear case (see CAUTION under DISASSEMBLY, CYLIN-DER BLOCK SERVICE ).
  • 5. Remove the governor spring.
  • 6. Remove the nut, washer and spring lever. Remove the speed control lever from the gear case.
  • 7. Remove the nut, washer and spring lever, remove the governor lever set bolt, and remove the governor lever.
  • 8. Remove the governor weight assembly and the sliding shaft from the injection pump camshaft.
  • 9. Remove the tie-rod and spring from the governor lever.

INSPECTION

  • 1. Check the governor weights for wear and damage. Replace if defective.
  • 2. Check the sliding shaft for damage and stiff movement. Replace if defective.

Governor Lever

Check the sliding shaft contact area of the governor lever and check the tie-rod and spring which connect the governor lever to the fuel rack. Replace if defective.

Governor Spring

Check the spring for deterioration and breakage. Replace if defective. When overhauling, replace the spring.

Needle Bearing

Check the needle bearing supporting the governor lever shaft in the gear case for damage.

REASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTMENT

To reassemble the governor, reverse the order of disassembly. After reassembly, check the governor for smooth operation.

Page 44

ENGINE SHUTOFF

ENGINES WITH MANUAL STOP (Standard)

A manual stop lever is located on the outboard side of the engine block just below the fuel injection pump. The damper spring is also mounted on this same lever assembly. A throttle bracket is provided to attach a push-pull cable. This cable is attached to the shutoff lever. When pulled fully in the stop direction by the cable, a lever inside the cover assembly moves the fuel rack of the injection pump to the fuel stop position, stopping the engine. Once the engine stops, the cable is pushed in to return the shutoff lever back into the fuel/run position. A heavy return spring on the shutoff lever assists in doing this. Periodically lubricate the lever and push-pull cable to ensure free movement.

OPTIONAL KEY SWITCH SHUTOF (D Models only)

An optional key switch shutoff solenoid #037100 is offered for D Models only. This solenoid mounts in a boss directly behind and slightly below the injection pump mounting location. This solenoid, when energized by turning the keyswitch on, allows the injection pump fuel rack to move to the fuel/run position allowing the engine to start and run. When the key switch is turned off, the solenoid plunger moves the fuel rack to the stop fuel position stopping the engine.

Installing and Adjusting the Key Switch Shutoff Solenoid

  • 1. Remove the large plug or side oil filler assembly located just behind the injection pump and slightly below it on the engine block.
  • 2. Visual access to the fuel injection pump fuel rack is needed. To obtain this, remove the shutoff lever side cover assembly.
  • 3. Thread the locknut all the way onto the solenoid and apply a small amount of Teflon sealant to the threads forward of the nut.
  • 4. Thread the solenoid into the boss on the engine block and observe the solenoid plunger through the side cover opening. Allow the plunger to contact the fuel rack and move it fully into the shutoff position on the injection pump. Do not thread the solenoid further into the boss so that the plunger against the fuel rack is pushed into the solenoid.
  • 5. Back the solenoid out of the boss 1/4 to 1/2 turn and secure the solenoid in position with the locknut.
  • 6. Properly connect the three electrical leads from the solenoid. The black eye lead goes to block ground. The white

pull-in lead should be run to the heavy solenoid terminal on the starter. Connect the red hold lead (splice into) the "R" connection on the DC alternator.

Key-Stop Solenoid System Operation Checking Procedure.

  • 1. Wire the system making reference to the wiring diagram.
  • 2. Viewing with the tie-rod cover off, confirm that when the key switch is turned to the ON position before starting the engine, the solenoid energizes and brings the fuel injection pump fuel rack to the MS STOP plate position.
  • 3. Turn the key switch to OFF and reinstall the tie-rod cover.
  • 4. The shutoff sequence is as follows: When the start button is depressed during the normal starting procedure, the solenoid is energized by the pullin lead. Once the engine starts and the start button is released, the solenoid remains energized by current to the hold lead of the solenoid coming from the "R" terminal connection on the alternator which receives voltage/current once the engine starts and the oil pressure switch closes from engine oil pressure.

CAUTION: The pull-in lead draws about 8-10 amps to energize the solenoid. The hold lead draws about one amp to keep the solenoid energized. Should these leads be connected incorrectly during installation, the solenoid will be damaged from excess current draw during engine operation.

NOTE: Should the solenoid fail and engine operation is required, unscrew the solenoid as far out of the boss as possible without removing it. Lock it in position with the locknut. The engine will now start. To shut the engine off, use the manual shutoff lever. Disconnect the two leads red and white from their power source.

Page 45

ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS

WESTERBEKE

39

TIGHTENING THE CYLINDER HEAD

Pull off the air breather pipe from the rocker cover and remove the rocker cover. Before adjusting the valve clearance, retighten the cylinder head bolts to their specified torque in the sequence shown in the diagram. Make sure the engine is cold when this is done. Before applying the specified torque to a bolt, loosen it 1/4 to 1/2 a turn and then apply the torque (see TECHNICAL DATA ).

3-Cylinder Engines
ADJUSTING VALVE CLEARANCE

Adjust the valve clearances when the engine is cold. Valves are adjusted by cylinder in the firing order of the engine (1-2 for 2-cylinder engines, 1-3-2 for 3-cylinder engines). Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the specified torque before adjusting the valves (see TIGHTENING TORQUE chart).

  • 1. Pull off the air breather pipe from the rocker cover, and take off the rocker cover bolts and the rocker cover.
  • 2. The valve clearances must be adjusted at TDC (Top Dead Center) for each cylinder when each is on its compression stroke. Remember the engine's firing order (1-2 for 2-cylinder engines, 1-3-2 for 3-cylinder engines). The valves must be adjusted in the firing order while they are closed. You may find that turning the engine's crankshaft is more easily done when the engine's glow plugs are removed before the crankshaft is turned. Adjust the valve clearances as follows.

NOTE: It is important to exactly align the timing mark on the gear case with that on the crankshaft pulley; if not, the valve may be pushed up by the piston, depending on the position of the cam lobe.

a. Rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation placing the No. 1 Cylinder at the top of its compression stroke. Align the timing mark on the gear case with the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley indicated for cylinder No. 1 (the timing mark next to the three injection timing marks). In this position, the No. 1 cylinder is at its top timing mark while dead center on its compression stroke. Adjust both intake and exhaust valve clearances for this cylinder.

3-Cylinder Engine shown

Adjust each valve's clearance by inserting a 0.25 mm feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the valve stem.

ADJUSTING VALVE CLEARANCE 3-Cylinder Engine shown

Page 46

ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS

If the valves have no specified clearance, adjust by means of the adjusting screws. Remember to align the timing marks properly; it not, the valve may be pushed up by the piston, depending on the position of the cam lobe. Be sure to check the valves for this cylinder – both should be closed.

b. For 2-cylinder engines: After adjusting the valves for cyllinder No. 1, place the No. 2 cylinder piston at the top dead center on its compression stroke and adjust its intake and exhaust valve clearances.

For 3-cylinder engines: After adjusting the valves for cylinder No. 1, turn the crankshaft clockwise 240° so the TDC mark on the camshaft pulley for the No. 3 cylinder is approximately at the position shown in the illustration. Now adjust the intake and exhaust valve clearances for cylinder No. 3. Be sure to check the valves for this cylinder – both should be closed.

c. For the No. 2 cylinder, turn the crankshaft clockwise another 240° to position the TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley approximately at the position shown in the illustration. Now adjust the intake and exhaust valves for cylinder No. 2. Be sure to check the valves for this cylinder – both should be closed.

ADJUSTING FUEL INJECTION TIMING

  • 1. Rotate the engine's crankshaft in its normal direction of rotation to position piston No. 1 at the beginning of its compression stroke.
  • 2. Remove the high-pressure fuel line between the No. 1 injector and the No. 1 fuel delivery valve holder.
  • 3. Remove the No. 1 delivery valve holder.
  • 4. Remove the delivery valve spring from the holder and reinstall the holder only.
  • 5. Re-attach the high pressure fuel line to the delivery holder. Fuel will flow from this line during the timing check. Attach it so that the end that would connect to the fuel injector is pointing away from the engine. Have a container under it to catch the fuel.
  • 6. Move the throttle to full open and energize the fuel lift pump. Place the starter key in the ON position; do not turn the key to the START position.

NOTE: the fuel shut-off lever must be in the RUN position while making the adjustment or no fuel will flow from the fuel injection pump.

7. Slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation and watch the fuel flowing from the injector line. The instant it stops is the injection timing (I.T.) point. With the crankshaft stopped at the I.T. position, check to see if the timing mark on the front crankshaft pulley is

aligned with the timing mark on the front gear case. The injection timing is correct when the timing marks are aligned. Refer to the SERVICE STANDARDS chart for the injection timing for the model being checked.

  • 8. When the specified injection timing is not correct, increase or decrease the shim material thickness under the fuel injection pump's mounting flange. Injection timing varies 1° with each 0.1 mm increase or decrease of shim thickness. The addition of shim thickness will retard the timing and reducing shim thickness will advance the timing. Shims are available in the following thicknesses: .2 mm, .3 mm, .4 mm and .8 mm. Refer to your engine's/ generator's parts catalog for shim part numbers.
  • 9. Another method of checking the injection timing without removing the spring from under the delivery valve holder is to disconnect the high pressure injector line from the injector. Then with the number one piston at the beginning of its compression stroke, turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation and carefully watch the fuel in the end of the high pressure line. The moment this fuel starts to swell and come out of the line, this is the injection timing point. By this method, the timing is about 1° later than the spill timing method previously discussed.

ADJUSTING NO-LOAD ENGINE SPEEDS

To adjust the engine speed on a generator, adjust the linkage between the throttle arm and the fuel run solenoid. Shortening the linkage increases the engine speed. Lengthening the linkage reduces the engine speed.

NOTE: This adjustment is performed with the engine operating and at normal operations temperature, with no amperage being taken from the generator. See the chart below:

GENERATOR MODELS NO-LOAD SPEED (rpm)
60 hertz models 1850 – 1880 (61.5 – 62.0 hertz)
50 hertz models 1550 – 1580 (51.5 – 52.0 hertz)

NOTE: Any adjustment of the throttle on a generator is done only with the linkage between the fuel solenoid and the throttle lever.

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ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS

Propulsion Models. This adjustment need only be performed after an engine overhaul or when the governor system or injection pump overhaul/repairs have been performed. This adjustment is performed after engine assembly during testing at the factory. See the chart below for no-load engine speed.

1. With the damper spring released (by loosening the damper spring adjusting bolt), set the engine at "a" rpm specified in the chart with the maximum speed set bolt. Lock the bolt at that position.

ENGINES "a" rpm
A, B and C Models 3110 +0
-30
D Models 3710 +0
-30

2. Tighten the damper spring adjusting bolt until the engine speed is set to "a" + 40 rpm, shown in the table below as "b" rpm. Lock the adjusting bolt at that position with a locknut. (Apply Locktight to the threads of the adjusting bolt.)

ENGINES "b" rpm
A, B and C Models 3150 +0
-50
D Models 3750 +0
-50

  • a. Seal the above-mentioned adjusting bolt with its brass cap and crimp it on the bolt.
  • b. Seal the maximum speed set bolt with wire and sealing material.
  • 3. Adjusting the Idling Speed. Idling speed for most engines is between 800 and 1,000 rpm. Set the engine to the idling speed with the idling set bolt, and lock the bolt at that position.

DAMPER SPRING ADJUSTMENT

DAMPER SPRING ADJUSTMENT

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LUBRICATION SYSTEM SERVICE

DESCRIPTION

The lubrication system uses a trochoid gear pump and a full flow oil filter. The oil pump is driven through the Oldham's coupling at the rear end of the fuel injection pump camshaft. Oil from the oil pump flows into the cartridge type oil filter via the relief valve. After being filtered by this filter, oil is delivered to various engine parts through oil galleries in the engine block.

The cartridge type oil filter , in which the filter body is integral with the filter element, is easy to handle. Oil from the oil pump is led into the filter element. When a pressure difference between before and after the element exceeds 14.2 lb/in2 (1 kg/cm2) due to excessive clogging of the element, a bypass valve in the element will open an oil passage bypassing the element. As a result, oil flows to various engine parts without filtration. Therefore it is important to replace the oil filter regularly. The oil filter should be replaced after the initial 50 hours of operation and thereafter every 100 hours of operation.

The trochoid gear type oil pump is mounted on the back of the fuel injection pump on the right side of the cylinder block. The oil pump houses a relief valve. If pump delivery oil pressure exceeds 56.9 lb/in2 (4 kg/cm2), the relief valve will open to by-pass oil into the oil pan, thus preventing further oil pressure rise.

DISASSEMBLY

/ESTERBEKE

Oil Filter and Oil Pump

  • 1. Remove the oil filter.
  • 2. Remove the pump cover assembly, housing and gasket.

LUBRICATION SYSTEM 3-Cylinder Engines

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LUBRICATION SYSTEM SERVICE

INSPECTION

Oil Pump

1. Outer rotor to body clearance . Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the outer rotor and body. If excessive, replace the rotor assembly.

2. Rotor clearance. Check the clearance between the outer and inner rotors with a feeler gauge. If excessive, replace the rotor assembly.

Check the Oldham's coupling of the inner rotor shaft for cracks, damage and wear.

ROTOR CLEARANCE

3. Rotor to cover clearance . With the outer rotor inserted in the pump body, insert a straightedge and check the clearance between the rotor and the straightedge with a feeler gauge. If excessive, replace either the rotor or the body.

  • 4. Pump body O-ring. Check the pump body O-ring for cracks and damage.
  • 5. Oil pressure switch/sender: Replace the oil pressure switch and the oil pressure sender.

CAUTION: Oil Pressure Switch Do not use lock pliers, vise grips or pipe wrenches on the oil pressure switch. Use the correct socket which is available from Snap-On, Proto, New Britain and others. Damage to the switch will cause oil leaks and/or switch failure.

REASSEMBLY

  • 1. Install the oil filter and tighten fully by hand. (Tightening torque: 8.0 to 9.4 ft-lb (1.1 to 1.3 kg-m.) Before installation, check for proper fitting of the O-ring in the groove and coat the O-ring with a small quantity of oil.
  • 2. Install the gasket. Then install the oil pump housing, O-ring, rotor assembly and cover assembly in that order. Apply oil to the rotating parts.
  • 3. With sealant applied to the threaded portion, screw in the oil pressure switch taking care not to close the oil hole with sealant.
  • 4. Apply liquid teflon sealant to the threaded portion of the oil pressure sender. Take care not to close off the oil hole into the sender. Thread the sender into its fitting on the oil pump's housing.

TESTING THE OIL PRESSURE

  • 1. Start and warm up the engine.
  • 2. Check for oil leaks at the filter and pump assembly.
  • 3. Remove the oil pressure sender and connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge to the hole.
  • Set the engine speed at 3000 rpm and measure the oil pressure. It should be fairly constant at 50 lb/in2 (3.5 kg/cm2).

NOTE: Insure that oil meets specification standards: Class CF or CG-4 or better/SAE 30, 10W-30, 15W-40.

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LUBRICATION SYSTEM SERVICE

OIL PRESSURE SWITCH

Generators

All generators have a two-prong oil pressure switch (see illustration) which is normally open. When the oil pressure drops below 5-10 psi (0.4-0.7 kg/cm2), this switch interrupts the circuit for the fuel run solenoid by opening, shutting down the generator.

Propulsion Engines

Early propulsion engines have an oil pressure switch that is normally closed. This switch opens when the oil pressure is higher than 5-10 psi (0.4-0.7 kg/cm2) (see illustration); when the oil pressure drops below 5-10 psi (0.4-0.7 kg/cm2), the switch closes, activating an alarm that emits a pulsating signal.

Later propulsion engines have a two-prong oil pressure switch (see illustration) which is normally open. When the oil pressure drops below 5-10 psi (0.4-0.7 kg/cm2), the switch activates an alarm that emits a pulsating signal.

NOTE: On all propulsion engines, the alarm will also emit a pulsating signal when the engine starts up, as the oil has not yet reached its normal pressure (a good check of the alarm). If this alarm emits a continuous signal, it indicates an engine overheat, with the engine operating temperature reaching 210F (99C).

OIL PRESSURE SWITCHES

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FUEL SYSTEM

45

DESCRIPTION

An electromagnetic fuel lift pump draws fuel from the diesel supply through an (owner-supplied) fuel filter/water separator to the engine's primary fuel filter and on to the fuel injection pump. The pressurized fuel is then injected into the combustion chamber through the injection pipes and nozzles. Excess fuel is returned to the fuel supply through the fuel return pipes that connect to the top of each nozzle holder.

NOTE: Fuel supplied to the fuel lift pump must be filtered to 10–25 microns by the (owner-supplied) fuel filter/water separator.

Fuel Pump. Two types of fuel lift pumps are shown in the illustration; both operate on the same electromagnetic principal. Earlier model engines use a lift pump with a replaceable fuel element. This element should be changed at regular maintenance intervals (at every 250 hours). Later model engines use a smaller lift pump that does not require maintenance. Electrical connections should be kept clean and tight with either pump.

The primary fuel filter encloses a highly effective paper element. This filter assembly is located on the engine between the fuel pump and the injection pump. The paper element should be changed at regular maintenance intervals.

The built-in fuel injection pump is mounted on the right side of the cylinder block. It consists of the pump elements (plunger assemblies), delivery valves, tappets and smoke set unit. As the pump camshaft rotates, the plungers are moved up and down through a fixed stroke, thus delivering pressurized fuel to engine cylinders.

Fuel injection control. Fuel injection rate is dependent on the relative positions of the plunger lead and barrel. The plunger is rotated by the control pinion which is mounted on the plunger barrel. This pinion meshes with the plunger's lower collar which transmits the rotation of the pinion directly to the plunger. As the engine runs, the injection pump camshaft rotates to move the control rack through the centrifugal type governor weight, governor sleeve and lever. The control rack slides to turn this pinion. Rightward movement (STOP→ mark side) of the control rack decreases the fuel injection rate; as the rack moves to the left, the fuel increases.

Smoke set unit. The smoke set unit restricts the maximum fuel injection rate of the injection pump. The stopper is held by a spring in the position shown in the illustration. This position is the smoke set position. When starting the engine (propulsion models), pull the throttle control lever fully toward the maximum speed position, and the tie-rod (with stopper spring) will move the control rack in the arrowed direction against the spring force, thus causing over-injection for easy engine start. For the injection pump with the Angleich mechanism, over-injection requires releasing that mechanism.

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FUEL SYSTEM

Angleich Mechanism. The Angleich Mechanism restricts the movement of the smoke set plate in the narrower range (Angleich effect "L") to save fuel consumption and decrease emission of exhaust smoke.

Releasing the Angleich Mechanism. It is necessary when starting the engine to set the injection pump in the over-injection (MS) condition by moving the throttle control lever fully to the FULL-OPEN position. This requires the Angleich set plate to be released from its set position. Usually the Angleich set plate is released by pulling the throttle lever until it is caught by its stopper when stopping the engine. After starting the engine, the Angleich set plate is returned automatically to the applied position during warm-up running of the engine.

The intercylinder injection control. Fuel injection control among the cylinders is performed by the adjusting plates (one plate for A Models, two plates for B Models) which have their own cam mechanisms. These adjusting plates are located on the opposite side of the control rack. Necessary turning of the plunger barrels required for inter-cylinder injection control is attained by turning the respective adjusting plates. This adjustment is performed on a fuel shop flow bench only.

Delivery valve operation. The delivery valve's function is to deliver fuel to the injection pipes after the fuel pressure has been increased sufficiently, and to prevent "after-drip" from the nozzles. When the fuel pressure above a plunger has decreased after injection, its delivery valve piston closes the delivery valve seat. At this time the compressed fuel remaining in the injection pipe drips from the nozzle. To prevent this "after-drip", the delivery valve piston makes a stroke to draw back the fuel before the delivery valve reaches the seat, thus reducing the fuel pressure in the injection pipe to nearly

Nozzle and nozzle holder. Fuel from the fuel injection pump flows through the passage in the body of each nozzle holder and is injected from the nozzle into the combustion chamber. Fuel overflowing from the nozzle enters the nozzle holder and returns to the fuel tank through the banjo and attached return fuel line.

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DISASSEMRI Y

Fuel Filter

Remove the retaining nut, O-ring and filter element.

Fuel Lift Pump

The fuel lift pump requires little or no maintenance. Disassemble an early fuel lift pump and change the filter. Later model fuel lift pumps require no disassembly. Fuel to the pump must be filtered to 10-25 microns. Electrical connections must be clean and tight. Fuel connections at the pump must be tight and without leaks.

  • 1. Remove the fuel injection pipes.
  • 2. Before removing the pump, be sure to remove the pump side cover and disconnect the tie-rod and spring from the rack. Then remove the bolts fastening the injection pump and remove the pump assembly.
  • 3. Record the thickness and number of pump adjusting shims to facilitate adjustment at the time of assembly.
  • 4. When partly disassembling the fuel injection pump, use the following procedure.

A CAUTION: Do not attempt to disassemble the fuel injection pump unless it is necessary. Since the adjustment of an injection pump requires a pump tester and technical disassembly, reassembly and adiustment of a pump should not be performed if such a tester and technician are not available.

Before disassembly, close the fuel inlet and outlet and clean the pump's outside surfaces.

Keep disassembled parts immersed in clean kerosene and keep all parts neatly arranged in order to avoid confusion.

  • a. Remove the delivery valve holder.
  • b. Take out the valve spring, valve and O-ring.
  • c. Take out the gasket and valve seat.
  • d. Unbend the lock plate of the tappet guide pin. Push the tappet slightly in and pull out the guide pin using needle-nose pliers. Then remove the tappet.
  • e. Remove the spring and upper seat.
  • f. Remove the pinion
  • g. Pull out the plunger barrel upward from the pump housing. Keep the removed plunger barrels and plungers in a set for each cylinder. (Do not mix plungers and barrels of other cylinders.)
  • h. Pull off the split pin. Remove the washer, return spring and smoke set stopper. Draw out the control rack. Remove the Angleich set spring and plate, if equipped, before taking out the control rack.

A CAUTION: Do not disassemble the inter-cylinder injection control adjusting plate. When this plate has been disassembled, it will become necessary to adjust the inter-cylinder injection by a tester. When this plate requires removal, remember to draw a mating mark across the pump body and the plate.

Page 54

Injector

  • 1. Disconnect the return pipe from the nozzle holder upper nipple.
  • 2. Disconnect the fuel injection pipe from the nozzle holder.
  • 3. Loosen the nozzle holder attaching bolts and remove the holder assembly.
  • 4. When disassembling the nozzle holder into parts, use the following procedure:
    • a. Holding the nozzle holder body in a vice, remove the retaining nut with a spanner wrench. When holding in the vice, be sure to use an aluminum or copper plate adapter.
    • b. Remove the shim, pressure spring, flange, pressure pin and distance piece.
    • c. Remove the nozzle from the retaining nut. If the nozzle is hard to remove, apply light taps to it with a wooden block. Be careful not to damage the nozzle needle valve.

INSPECTION

Fuel Filter

Check the filter element for contamination. The regular element replacement interval is 250 hours. Replace the element more frequently if necessary.

Fuel Lift Pump

The fuel lift pump operates during the start sequence when PREHEAT is depressed. Simulate a start and depress PRE-HEAT. The pump should produce a clicking sound indicating the pumping piston in the pump is pumping. If no clicking is heard, check that there is 12V DC at the pump connection and that the pump is properly grounded.

1. Checking the pump delivery . Test the pump by connecting a battery and fuel line, as illustrated. Fuel delivery must be 225 cc (.5 pints) or more every 15 seconds.

Fuel Injection Pump

  • 1. Delivery valve seat. Check the contact surface of the delivery valve seat. Replace if defective.
  • 2. Plunger barrel. Check the plunger for seizure, damage and rust. Also check to see if the plunger slides smoothly when inserted into the barrel. If defective, do not repair it, but be sure to replace as a set with a new one.
  • 3. Control rack and pinion . If the rack and pinion have any worn or damaged teeth, replace.
  • 4. Tappet. Check the tappet O.D., roller and shaft for wear and damage. If defective, replace.

Nozzle

  • 1. Check the nozzle for incorrect contact and damage. Replace the nozzle as an assembly if defective.
  • 2. Check the pressure spring for damage.

NOTE: Also check the Angleich set plates and set springs for wear and damage.

REASSEMBLY

Fuel Filter

Install the filter element and filter cup O-rings in position. Tighten the retaining nut securely.

Fuel Lift Pump

To reassemble, set the plunger, plunger spring, valve, O-ring and washer in position in that order, and as a final step, fit the retainer to prevent the above-mentioned parts from popping out of position (see illustration).

Put the filter in position and fit the magnet and gasket in the cover. Using a 17 mm spanner, fasten up to the stopper portion in such a way as to prevent air leakage.

Injection Pump

  • 1. Insert the plunger barrel with its slots in alignment with the dowel pins projecting in the pump housing.
  • 2. Install the O-ring in the delivery valve holder.

Page 55

3. Install the spring seat gasket and the valve assembly in the holder. Tighten the delivery holder to the pump housing. Make certain that the O-ring has been properly installed.

  • 4. Install the control rack.
  • 5. Install the pinions with their deep-root teeth aligned with the respective marks on the rack.

  • 6. Install the spring upper seat and spring.
  • 7. Put the plunger and the spring lower seat together. Install the assembly so that, in the same alignment position as mentioned in step 5, the plunger front-end lead (slant groove) is positioned on the opposite side of the control rack. On former engines, insert the mark "L" area of the plunger collar into the control rack side.

8. Insert the tappet, taking care not to drop the shim. Align the tappet guide hole with the dowel pin hole of the housing and insert the tappet guide pin. Install the lock plate before inserting the tappet guide pin and bend the lock plate after inserting the pin.

  • 9. Install the smoke set stopper, return spring and washer. Then insert the split pin, and split it. On later engines, also install the E-ring stopper.
  • 10. Install the Angleich set plate and spring, when equipped.
  • 11. Torque the delivery holder to specification 28.9-36.2 ft-lb (4-5 kg-m).

Installation and Adjustment of Fuel Injection Pump

1. When installing the pump assembly, select and install the adjusting shim. After installing the pump, fit the tie-rod from the governor lever to the control rack, then install the tie-rod spring to the control rack. Make sure that the end of the tie-rod spring positioned at the governor lever side has the shorter straight wire of the two ends of the spring. For proper selection of shim thickness, temporarily install a shim set having the same thickness as before removal, and when adjusting fuel injection timing, replace the current shim set with one formed by a proper combination of four kinds of shims — 0.2, 0.3, 0.4 and 0.8 mm in thickness.

NOTE: Maintaining the same shim thickness for the injection pump will place the pump in the same timing with the engine as when previously removed.

INSTALLING INJECTION PUMP 3-Cylinder shown

ESTERBEKE

49

Page 56

2. Install the tie-rod cover. In the case of a damper springloaded cover, install the cover with the tie-rod pressed toward the High Speed side by the speed control lever (see illustration).

  • 3. Connect the fuel supply hose. Preheat to bleed air from the system.
  • 4. Check damper spring adjustment and fuel injection timing. For these adjustment procedures, refer to ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS .
Injector

A CAUTION: Thoroughly clean all parts with kerosene. Do not wipe them with rags.

When tightening the retaining nut on the nozzle holder body, be sure to tighten it to the specified torque. Insufficient torquing will cause poor compression. Excessive torquing will prevent the nozzle needle from moving freely.

  • 1. Install the nozzle assembly, distance piece, and pressure pin in the retaining nut.
  • 2. Install the shim, spring and flange to the body. Install the retaining nut on the body and tighten to the specified torque.

CAUTION: When using a vice to tighten the nut, be sure to hold the body side. If the retaining nut was held, a deformed nozzle would result.

Adjustment and Installation of Nozzle Holder Assembly

1. Injection Start Pressure Test. Using a nozzle tester, measure the injection start pressure. If the pressure is different from the standard value, adjust to the specified pressure by increasing or decreasing the thickness of the adjusting shim. Increasing or decreasing shim thickness by 0.1 mm will vary the pressure by approximately 10 kg/cm2. When replacing the shim, grip the retaining nut in a vise and remove the body with a wrench. Tighten the retaining nut to the specified torque.

2. Chattering Test. For the chattering test, operate the tester lever slowly. If the nozzle sprays sharply and intermittently, the nozzle is considered good. The nozzle should spray fuel straight in its axial direction. A nozzle is defective if it sprays fuel in a wrong direction or in several separate strips. Also a spray in the form of particles indicates a defect. These defects may sometimes be caused by clogging with dust, therefore all parts should be carefully cleaned before assembly.

CHATTERING TEST

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3. After-drip test. An injection nozzle is considered defective if it drips fuel accumulated on the bottom of the nozzle after fuel injection is stopped during the chattering test. Replace such a nozzle. A very small amount of fuel may sometimes remain on the top of the nozzle. This is due to chattering and is not detrimental.

  • 4. Injection Condition Test. Operate the tester lever quickly (at a rate of 800 strokes per minute). The nozzle should inject a fine atomozed mist of fuel straight in its axial direction. A spray in the form of particles is cause for rejection.
  • 5. Install the Nozzle Holder Assembly. Install the tested nozzle holder assembly in the cylinder head. Tighten bolts to the specified torque. Be sure to install the assembly together with new sealing washers.

CAUTION: When installing the nozzle holder assembly in the cylinder head, fit the holder loosely with two bolts temporarily tightened. After fitting the injection pipe, retighten the bolts evenly to the specified torque.

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RAW WATER COOLING CIRCUIT

DESCRIPTION

The raw water cooling circuit is driven by a positive displacement impeller pump. This pump draws in water directly from an ocean, lake, or river, through the seacock, then to a raw water strainer. The raw water is drawn through the strainer to the self-priming pump and to the heat exchanger where it cools the engine's circulating fresh water coolant. The raw water is then discharged into the water injected exhaust elbow mixing with and cooling the exhaust gases. This mixture of exhaust gas and raw water is driven through the exhaust system and overboard.

Transmission oil cooler. In some installations the raw water is also used to cool the engine's transmission by passing through a transmission oil cooler. Similar to a heat exchanger, the transmission fluid is cooled by the raw water and then passes into the exhaust elbow. The oil cooler should be cleaned and pressure tested at about the same interval as the heat exchanger, every 1000 hours.

The heat exchanger functions as part of the fresh water system and the raw water system. The heat exchanger is a copper tube which encloses a number of small copper tubes. Raw water is pumped through the small copper tubes and fresh water coolant from the engine is circulated around the copper tubes. The raw water removes heat from the fresh water coolant. A zinc anode is located in the raw water portion of the exchanger to help control the effects of electrolysis. This area of the exchanger should be periodically inspected and cleaned. To keep the exchanger operating efficiently, it should be removed from the engine every 1000 hours to be thoroughly cleaned and pressure tested.

The raw water pump is a self-priming pump with a non-ferrous housing and a Neoprene impeller. The impeller has flexible vanes which wipe against a curved cam plate within the impeller housing, producing the pumping action. The raw water pump should be checked every 500 operating hours for wear. Should the pump fail, it can be disassembled and overhauled. Check for internal wear within the pump such as the cover plate, cam and impeller housing. Replace components that show excess wear.

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RAW WATER PIIMP SERVICE

RAW WATER PUMP ---- PN 33636

PUMP OVERHAUL

Disassembly

The pump, as removed from the engine, will have hose attachment nipples threaded into its inlet and outlet ports. They may be left in place or removed if they interfere with the pump disassembly. Note the port location and positioning if removed

1. Remove the six cover plate screws, cover plate, and the cover plate gasket.

NOTE: Replacement of the cover plate gasket is recommended; however, if you are going to reuse it, keep the gasket submerged in water until the pump is reassembled. If it's allowed to dry, the gasket will shrink and not be reusable

  • 2. Remove the impeller with its drive screw from the pump housing.
  • 3. Remove the screw and sealing washer and remove the cam from the pump housing.
  • 4. Remove the retaining ring.
  • 5. Support the pump housing, at the mounting flange end, on an arbor press, and with a drift, press out the shaft and bearings from the pump housing.
  • 6. With the pump housing supported, push the seals out of the pump housing. Push the impeller side seal out the impeller side, then lift the spacer out. Then push the bearing side seal out the bearing side.
  • 7. Supporting the bearing's inner race, push the shaft out of the bearings.
Inspection

Inspect all parts and replace those showing wear or corrosion.

Reassembly

1. Install the seals and spacer in the pump housing. Push the impeller side seal into the housing. Rotate the pump and install the spacer against the seal face. Push the bearing side seal into the housing from the bearing side.

NOTE: The seals' flat surfaces that have printing and numbers face toward each other

  • 2. Install the shaft into the bearings. Support the bearings at their center races. Push the shaft into the bearings, pushing at the impeller drive slot end using the base of the drive slot. Push the shaft through both of the bearings, flush against each other so the flat-sided end of the shaft extends beyond the second bearing center race 15 mm (19/32 in.) ± .5 mm (1/32 in.).
  • 3. Support the pump housing at the impeller side. Apply a small amount of petroleum jelly to the seal's inner lips and to the impeller shaft. Carefully install the shaft, rotating it through the seals until the bearings contact the housing from the bearing end. Use a pushing tool that will push this shaft and the bearing assembly into the pump housing by applying pressure against the outer bearing race. Push the assembly into the housing until the bearings seat fully in the housing. Install the retaining ring.
  • 4. Position the cam in the housing and secure it in place with the screw and sealing washer.

NOTE: Use a small amount of Permatex #1 on the inner cam surface and screw threads. Remove any excess from the impeller housing.

5. Apply a light film of silicone or petroleum ielly to the inner surface of the housing for the impeller.

NOTE: Coat only the surface, do not over-apply. Install the impeller with the drive screw. Push the assembly into the housing with the drive screw mating in the slot of the drive shaft

  • 6. Install the cover gasket and cover, and secure them with the six cover screws.
  • 7. Reposition and tighten the hose nipples. Assemble the pump to the engine, and attach the hoses.

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RAW WATER PUMP SERVICE

RAW WATER PUMP — PN 32610

PUMP OVERHAUL

Disassembly

When disassembling the raw water pump for inspection, an impeller kit (part #032620) should be purchased so the impeller can be replaced with a new gasket at the time of inspection. Although the impeller is a small part, it plays an important role in the proper operation of the engine. Replacing the impeller at the time of the raw water pump's inspection can only improve the raw water pump's pumping ability (see the note below).

  • 1. Remove the four cover screws, cover plate and the cover plate gasket
  • 2. Remove the rubber impeller and the wear plate.
  • 3. Remove the rubber O-ring.
  • 4. Remove the cam screw and washer, and the cam.

Now the raw water pump is stripped far enough to be inspected.

Inspection

Inspect the pump by rotating the pump's drive shaft. If there is excessive play or if it sounds rough or is frozen, replace the entire pump.

Since rebuilding a damaged or worn pump from individually purchased pieces would almost match the price of a new pump, we recommend that a new pump be purchased instead of rebuilding one.

Reassembly

NOTE: When reassembling the raw water pump with a new impeller kit, wipe a little petroleum jelly around the impeller. This ensures that when the engine is started the impeller will not run dry until raw water reaches the impeller as it draws a prime.

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RAW WATER PUMP SERVICE

RAW WATER PUMP - PN 24143

Pump #24143 has been replaced by pump #33636. Complete #24143 pumps are no longer assembled but their component parts are still available.

PUMP OVERHAUL

Disassembly

Remove the pump from the engine. The pump body is a bronze cast unit. Its inlet and outlet hose connections are part of the pump housing casting.

  • 1. Remove the six cover plate screws along with the cover plate and gasket.
  • 2. Using an appropriate drift, push the impeller drive shaft and impeller out of the pump housing.
  • 3. Using circlip pliers, remove the outer circlip from the impeller drive shaft, then remove the impeller from the shaft.
  • 4. Remove the key from the shaft, and the inner circlip.
  • 5. Remove the screw holding the cam in the pump housing, and remove the cam.
  • 6. Using an appropriate puller, withdraw the outer and inner shaft seals along with the slinger ring from the pump body.
  • 7. Support the pump on a press and with a lubricated drift, push the carbon shaft bushing out of the pump housing. Note the position of the shaft bushing in the housing prior to removal.
Inspection

Examine all components and replace worn or damaged parts. If the pump housing is worn internally and requires replacement, we recommend that the pump assembly be replaced with the current production pump. It is available in a replacement kit, Part #037431.

Reassembly

1. The carbon shaft bushing is a slight force fit into the pump housing. To aide in the installation of the replace

ment bushing, chill the bushing in a freezer for 1 hour to reduce it's size. Prepare the pump housing on a press to accept the bushing.

  • 2. Apply some light oil to the housing boss that the bushing will be pressed into. Using an appropriate drift, push the bushing into the housing so that it is flush with the impeller housing's inner surface.
  • 3. Using an appropriate installer, install the impeller shaft seal. Ensure that the seal seats properly in the housing and that the lip seal is positioned correctly.
  • 4. Place the slinger ring in the housing against the impeller seal.
  • 5. Install the impeller shaft oil seal into the housing so it is flush with the housing surface. Again ensure that the lip seal is positioned correctly.
  • 6. Install the inner circlip on the impeller drive shaft, and install the impeller key in the shaft.
  • 7. Apply some light oil to the shaft, and with a rotating action, slide it into the shaft bushing from the impeller side and rotate it through the impeller seal. Locate the slinger ring and rotate the shaft through it. Continue rotating the shaft and slide it through the housing oil seal.
  • 8. Install a new cam. Apply some sealant to the cam retaining screw and thread it into the cam through the housing and tighten it securely.
  • 9. Apply a small amount of petroleum jelly on the housing's inner circumference, then install the impeller onto the shaft and into the housing. Install the outer circlip on the shaft.

NOTE: The set of the impeller blades is of no concern. Once the pump is installed on the engine and the engine rotated, the blades will take the correct position.

10. Install the housing cover and gasket. Tighten the cover screws securely.

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FRESH WATER COOLING CIRCUIT

DESCRIPTION

The fresh water cooling circuit consists of a circulatory beltdriven water pump, a thermostat and thermostat housing, heat exchanger, engine manifold, and all associated hoses.

The water pump is a centrifugal impeller type and is mounted on the front upper part of the cylinder block. The pump shaft is supported on maintenance-free (grease-filled) double-row radial ball bearings.

Thermostat. A thermostat housing is located on the cylinder head water outlet. Enclosed is a wax pellet-type thermostat. The valve opening temperature is not affected by variations of pressure in the cooling water passages.

The water temperature switch and the water temperature sender are both mounted in the thermostat housing. The water temperature switch, normally open in a propulsion engine, when activated, will close and sound an alarm. The water temperature switch, normally closed in a generator drive engine, when activated, will open and interrupt DC Voltage to the fuel run solenoid and shut the drive engine down. The water temperature sender is a variable resistor affected by heat. Voltage from the water temperature gauge is grounded through the sender to the block. Depending on the resistance through the sender effected by coolant heat, the gauge will indicate a temperature reading.

Change of Coolant. Over a long period of engine operation, scale will be deposited and rust formation will occur in the water jacket and heat exchanger, causing progressive deterioration in cooling system efficiency. For this reason, flush the cooling system every 500 hours of engine operation.

Antirust and Antifreeze. To protect the cooling system against corrosion and freezing, always use a known brand of antifreeze compatible with aluminum cooling system components. The use of an antifreeze mixture of 50/50 is recommended for year-round use. Use antifreeze that is compatible with aluminum components, and never mix different brands of antifreeze. Do not use plain water; this can be detrimental to the cooling system components.

NOTE: Look for the new environmentally-friendly long lasting antifreeze that is now available.

Antifreeze mixtures will protect against an unexpected freeze and they are beneficial to the engine's cooling system. They retard rust and add to the life of the circulating pump seal.

Antifreeze concentration 23% 35% 50% 60%
Freezing temperature 14°F
(–10°C)
4°F
(20°C)
40°F
(40°C)
–58°F
(–50°C)

COOLANT RECOVERY TANK

Page 63

FRESH WATER COOLING SERVICE

DISASSEMBLY

  • 1. Drain the cooling water. A drain plug for draining the engine block is located on the side of the engine block just right of the lube oil filter. A drain plug for draining the heat exchanger is located on the heat exchanger.
  • Disconnect the water hose from the pump. NOTE: Generator models are equipped with belt guards that will need to be removed
  • 3. Remove the pump drive belt.
  • 4. Disconnect the bypass hose when equipped.
  • 5. Remove the water pump assembly.
  • 6. If necessary, remove the water pump adapter when equipped.
  • 7. On an engine with a thermostat, remove the water outlet fitting bolts in the front of the cylinder head and remove the thermostat.

INSPECTION

Water Pump

1. Check every part for cracks, damage and water leaks. Replace if defective.

NOTE: No rebuilding kits are available for the fresh water circulation pump.

2. Check the impeller and shaft for rotating condition. If they make noise or rotate irregularly, replace as an assembly.

Thermostat

Visually check the thermostat for damage. Then put it in water and raise the water temperature to test its valve opening temperature. Replace if defective.

CAUTION: The wax pellet-type thermostat remains closed if its heat-sensing part is defective. Leaving this uncorrected would cause the engine to overheat.

REASSEMBLY

To reassemble the cooling system, reverse the order of disassembly. When adjusting the drive belt tension, use the following procedure.

Drive Belt Adjustment

WARNING: Never attempt to adjust the drive belt tension while the engine is operating.

CAUTION: Excessive water pump drive belt tension can cause rapid wear of the belt and reduce the service life of the fresh water pump's bearings. Excessive slack or the presence of oil on the belt can cause belt slipping, resulting in high operating temperatures.

Adjust the alternator position so that the belt may deflect 3/8" to 1/2" (9 to 12 mm) deep when depressed at the middle point between the alternator and crankshaft pulleys. After adjustment, securely tighten the support bolt and brace bolt. If any clearance is found between the gear case and alternator fitting part, insert a suitable shim inside the support on the back of the alternator before tightening the bolts. Reinstall belt.

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ADMIRAL CONTROL PANEL

DESCRIPTION

This manually-operated control panel is equipped with a KEY switch and RPM gauge with an ELAPSED TIME meter which measures the engine's running time in hours and in 1/10 hours. The panel also includes a WATER TEMPER-ATURE gauge which indicates water temperature in degrees Fahrenheit, an OIL PRESSURE gauge which measures the engine's oil pressure in pounds per square inch, and a DC control circuit VOLTAGE gauge which measures the system's voltage. All gauges are illuminated when the key switch is turned on and remain illuminated while the engine is in operation. The panel also contains two rubber-booted pushbuttons one for PREHEAT and one for START

When the engine is shut down with the key switch turned off the water temperature and oil pressure gauges will continue to register their last readings before the electrical power was turned off. When the electrical power is restored, both gauges will once again register true readings.

A separate alarm buzzer with harness is supplied with every Admiral Panel. The installer is responsible for electrically connecting the buzzer to the four-pin connection on the engine's electrical harness. The installer is also responsible for installing the buzzer in a location where it will be dry and where it will be audible to the operator should it sound while the engine is running. The buzzer will sound when the ignition key is turned on and should silence when the engine has started and the engine's oil pressure rises above 15 psi.

VATER TEMPERATURE GAUGE: THIS GAUGE IS BRADUATED IN DEGREES FAHRENHEIT AND IS ILLUMINATED WHILE THE KEY SWITCH IS JRNED ON. THE ENGINE'S NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE IS 170°-190° F (77°-88°C).

OIL PRESSURE GAUGE: THIS GAUGE IS GRADU-ATED IN POUNDS PER SQUARE INCH (PSI ILLUMINATED WHILE THE KEY SWITCH IS TURNED ON. THE ENGINE'S NORMAL OPERATING OIL PRESSURE RANGES BETWEEN 30-60 PSI.

RPM GAUGE: REGIS TERS REVOLUTIONS ENGINE AND CAN BE CALIBRATED FOR CCURACY FROM THE REAR OF THE

HOUR METER: REGIS TERS ELAPSED TIME, AS A GUIDE FOR THE AS A GUIDE FU SCHEDULE

DC VOLTMETER THE BATTERY IS REING CHARGED. SHOULD SHOW 13V TO 14V

PREHEAT BUTTON: WHEN PRESSED, ENERGIZES THE ALTERNATOR'S REGULATOR, THE FUEL LIFT PUMP AND THE ENGINE'S GLOW PLUGS. IT BY-PASSES THE ENGINE'S PROTECTIVE OIL PRES-SURE ALARM SWITCH. IN ADDITION, THIS BUTTON ENERGIZES THE START BUTTON

START BUTTON: WHEN PRESSED, ENERGIZE ENGINE. THIS BUTTON WILL NOT OPERATE ELECTRICALLY UNLESS THE PREHEAT BUTTON IS PRESSED AND HELD AT THE SAME TIME

AUTOMATIC ALARM SYSTEM

HIGH WATER TEMPERATURE ALARM: AN ALARM BUZZER HAS BEEN SUPPLIED WITH THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. IF THE ENGINE'S FRESH WATER COOLANT REACHES 210° F (98°C), THIS SWITCH WILL OSE SOUNDING THE ALARM WHICH WILL EMIT A CON-WILL CLOSE SOU TINUOUS SIGNAL

LOW OIL PRESSURE ALARM: A LOW OIL PRESSURE ALARM SWITCH IS LOCATED OFF THE ENGINE'S OIL GALLERY. THIS SWITCH MONITORS THE ENGINE'S OIL PRESSURE. SHOULD THE ENGINE'S OIL PRESSURE FALL TO 5 – 10 PSI. THE SWITCH WILL CLOSE SOUNDING THE ALARM. IN THIS EVENT, THE ALARM WILL EMIT A PULSATING SIGNAL.

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CAPTAIN CONTROL PANEL

DESCRIPTION

This manually-operated control panel is equipped with a KEY switch, an RPM gauge, PREHEAT and START buttons, an INSTRUMENT TEST button and three indicator lamps, one for ALTERNATOR DISCHARGE, one for low OIL PRESSURE, and one for high ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE. It also includes an alarm buzzer for low

OIL PRESSURE or high WATER TEMPERATURE. The RPM gauge is illuminated when the KEY switch is turned on and remains illuminated while the engine is in operation.

Page 66

CONTROL PANEL TROUBLESHOOTING

TACHOMETER/HOURMETER

The tachometer/hourmeter used in propulsion engine instrument panels contains two separate electrical circuits with a common ground. One circuit operates the hourmeter and the other the tachometer. The hourmeter circuit operates on 12 volts alternator charging voltage supplied to the (+) terminal on the back of the instrument.

The tachometer circuit operates on AC voltage 6-8 volts, fed from one of the diodes in the alternator and supplied to the tachometer input terminal while the engine is running, and the alternator producing battery charging voltage 13.0-14.8 volts DC.

Use the following procedures when troubleshooting a fault in either of the two circuits in a tachometer/hourmeter.

Hourmeter Inoperative

Check for the proper DC voltage between (+) and (-) terminals.

  • 1. Voltage present meter is defective repair or replace.
  • Voltage not present trace (+) and (-) electrical connections for fault. (Jump 12 volts DC to meter (+) terminal to verify the operation.)

Tachometer Inoperative

Check for the proper AC voltage between tachometer input terminal and the (–) terminal with the engine running.

  • 1. Voltage present attempt adjusting the meter through the calibration access hole. If no results, repair or replace the meter.
  • 2. AC voltage not present check for proper alternator DC output voltage.
  • 3. Check for AC voltage at the tach terminal on the alternator to ground.
  • 4. Check the electrical connections from the tachometer input terminal to the alternator connection.
Tachometer Sticking

  • 1. Check for proper AC voltage between the tachometer input terminal and the (-) terminal.
  • Check for a good ground connection between the meter (-) terminal and the alternator.
  • 3. Check that the alternator is well grounded to the engine block at the alternator pivot bolt.
Tachometer Inaccurate

  • 1. With a hand-held tach on the front of the crankshaft pulley retaining nut or with a strobe-type tach, read the front crankshaft pulley rpm. Set the engine with a hand or strobe tach at 1500-1800 rpm.
  • 2. Adjust the tachometer with a small Phillips type screwdriver through the calibration acess hole in the rear of the tachometer. Zero the tach and bring it to the rpm set by the strobe or hand tach. (Verify the rpm at idle and at high speed 3000-3600 rpm). (Adjust the tach as needed.)

EARLY MODEL TACHOMETER

Page 67

CONTROL PANEL TROUBLESHOOTING

MANUAL STARTER DISCONNECT (TOGGLE SWITCHES)

NOTE: The engine control system is protected by a 20 amp manual reset circuit breaker mounted on a bracket at the top rear of the engine near the PREHEAT solenoid.

PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE VERIFICATION/REMEDY
PREHEAT depressed, no panel indications, 1. Battery switch or power not on. 1. Check switch and/or battery connections.
preheat solenoid not energized. 2. 20 amp circuit breaker tripped.
  1. Reset breaker. If opens again, check preheat sole-
    enoid circuit and "run" circuit for shorts to ground.
START SWITCH DEPRESSED, no starter 1. Connection to solenoid faulty. 1. Check connection.
2. Faulty switch. 2. Check switch with ohmmeter.
3. Faulty solenoid.
  1. Check that 12 volts are present at the solenoid con-
    nection.
4. Loose battery connections. 4. Check battery connections.
5. Low battery. 5. Check battery charge state.
START DEPRESSED, panel indications OK.
Start solenoid OK. Fuel solenoid not
functioning
  1. Poor connections to fuel solenoid. Defective fuel run
    solenoid. (P/N.2304)
  1. Check mechanical positioning of the fuel solenoid
    for plunger and throttle arm.
Turiotoning.
  1. Manually check movement of the fuel run solenoid
    plunger and throttle arm.
NO IGNITION, cranks, does not start. Fuel 1. Faulty fueling system. 1. Check for fuel to generator system.
Sulenulu energizeu.
  1. Check for air in the fuel system.
    Allow system to self-bleed.
3. Full lift pump faulty.
ENGINE STOPS 1. Switch and wiring.
  1. Inspect all wiring for loose connections and short
    circuits.
NOT CHARGING BATTERY 1. Alternator drive.
  1. Check the drive belt and its tension. Be sure the
    alternator turns freely. Check for loose connections.
    Check the output with a voltmeter. Ensure 12V are
    present at the regulator terminal.
BATTERY RUNS DOWN 1. Oil pressure switch.
  1. Observe if the gauges and panel lights are activated
    when the engine is not running. Test the oil pressure
    switch.
2. High resistance leak to ground.
  1. Check the wiring. Insert sensitive (025 amp) meter
    in battery lines (Do not start engine). Remove con-
    nections and replace after short is located.
3. Low resistance leak to ground.
  1. Check all wires for temperature rise to locate the fault.
4. Alternator.
  1. Disconnect alternator at output, after a good battery
    charging. If leakage stops. Remove alternator and
    bench test. Repair or replace.
TROUBLESHOOTING WATER TEMPERATURE AND OIL PRESSURE GAUGES

If the gauge reading is other than what is normally indicated by the gauge when the instrument panel is energized, the first step is to check for 12 volts DC between the ignition (B+) and the Negative (B-) terminals of the gauge.

Assuming that there is 12 volts as required, leave the instrument panel energized and perform the following steps:

  • 1. Disconnect the sender wire at the gauge and see if the gauge reads zero, which is the normal reading for this situation.
  • 2. Connect the sender terminal at the gauge to ground and see if the gauge reads full scale, which is the normal reading for this situation

If both of the above gauge tests are positive, the gauge is undoubtedly OK and the problem lies either with the conductor from the sender to the gauge or with the sender.

If either of the above gauge tests are negative, the gauge is probably defective and should be replaced.

Assuming the gauge is OK, check the conductor from the sender to the sender terminal at the gauge for continuity.

Check that the engine block is connected to the ground. Some starters have isolated ground terminals and if the battery is connected to the starter (both plus and minus terminals), the ground side will not necessarily be connected to the block.

Page 68

CONTROL PANEL – EARLY MODELS

ACTIVATION BY KEY SWITCH

Turning the ignition switch ON activates the instrument panel. The oil and water temperature gauges will zero, the voltmeter will indicate battery voltage, and the hourmeter will start to record time. The alarm buzzer should sound. The electric fuel pump will start to operate.

Pushing the key will activate the preheat circuit. This closes a solenoid on the engine with an audible click and supplies 12 volts to the engine glow plugs. Preheat as needed for weather conditions. A noticeable voltage drop will indicate on the voltmeter when the preheat circuit is activated.

Continuing to preheat, turn the key to START. This energizes the starter and turns the engine over. Once the engine starts, release the keyswitch. It should spring back to the ON position and pop out of the preheat position.

The voltmeter should indicate a charge from the alternator of 13.5 – 14.5 volts. The oil pressure and the alarm buzzer should shut off. Oil pressure opens the oil pressure switch in the alarm circuit shutting off the alarm. The water temperature switch operates the opposite way: it closes when an

EARLY PROPULSION ENGINE MODELS

overheat condition exists and the operating temperature of the engine reaches 205°F, and sounds the alarm. The tachometer will register the engine speed as it takes impulses from the alternator as it charges. If the alternator does not produce a charge, the tachometer will not operate. The hourmeter will continue to record time. The hourmeter is on a separate 12 volt circuit.

The circuit is protected by a circuit breaker located on the engine. Whenever excessive current flows, the circuit breaker will trip. This is a manual reset breaker which must be reset before the engine will operate electrically again.

CAUTION: The builder/owner must ensure that the instrument panel, wiring and engine are installed so that electrical devices cannot come in contact with sea water.

The latest information regarding your engine's electrical system is included on the wiring diagram shipped with the engine. Be sure to study this wiring diagram and all notes thereon.

LATER PROPULSION ENGINE MODELS

Page 69

CONTROL PANEL – EARLY MODELS

WMD GENERATOR MODELS

Page 70

DESCRIPTION

The starter can be roughly divided into the following sections:

  • A motor section which generates a drive power.
  • An overrunning clutch section which transmits an armature torque, preventing motor overrun after starting.
  • A switch section (solenoid) which is operated when actuating the overrunning clutch through a lever and which supplies load current to the motor.

The starter is a new type, small, light-weight, and is called a high-speed internal-reduction starter. Its differences in construction from conventional starters are as follows:

  • In conventional starters, the pinion slides on the motor shaft (armature shaft). In the new type of starter, the pinion shaft is separate from the motor shaft; the pinion slides only on the pinion shaft.
  • A reduction gear is installed between the motor shaft and the pinion shaft.
  • The pinion sliding part is not exposed outside the starter so that the pinion may slide smoothly without becoming fouled with dust and grease.
  • The motor shaft is supported at both ends on ball bearings. The lever mechanism, switch and overrunning clutch inner circuit are identical to conventional ones.

STARTER

ADJUSTMENT AND REPAIR

If any abnormality is found by the following tests, the starter should be disassembled and repaired.

Pinion Gap Inspection

1. Connect a battery (12V) between the starter terminal "S" and the starter body, and the pinion drive should rotate out and stop.

CAUTION: Never apply battery voltage for over 10 seconds continuously.

  • 2. Lightly push the pinion back and measure the return stroke (called pinion gap).
  • 3. If the pinion gap is not within the standard range (0.5 to 2.0 mm), adjust it by increasing or decreasing the number of shims on the solenoid. The gap is decreased as the number of shims increases.

No-Load Test

VESTERBFKF

  • 1. Connect the ammeter, voltmeter, and battery to the starter (see illustration).
  • 2. When the switch is closed, the pinion must protrude and the starter must run smoothly (at 3000 rpm or more). If the current or starter speed is out of specification, disassemble the starter and repair it.

CAUTION: Use thick wires as much as possible and tighten every terminal securely. This is a solenoid shift-type starter which makes a rotating sound louder than that of a direct-drive type starter. When detecting starter rotation at the pinion tip, be careful not to come in contact with the pinion gear when it protrudes.

Page 71

SOLENOID

Perform the following tests. If any test result is not satisfactory, replace the solenoid assembly.

  • 1 Disconnect the wire from terminal "M"
  • 2. Attraction test: Connect a battery to the solenoid's terminal S for (+) and M for (-). Have a switch in the (+) lead and close it. The pinion drive should extend fully out.

STARTER DISASSEMBLY

  • 1. Disconnect the wire from the solenoid terminal "M".
  • 2. Loosen the two screws fastening the solenoid. Remove the solenoid assembly.
  • 3. Remove the two through bolts and two screws fastening the brush holder. Remove the rear bracket.
  • 4. With the two brushes pulled away from the armature, remove the yoke and brush holder assembly. Then pull the armature out.
  • 5. Remove the cover, prv the snap ring out, and remove the washer.
  • 6 . Unscrew the bolts and remove the center bracket. At the same time, the washers for the pinion shaft end play

3. Holding test. With a battery connected to the solenoid terminal "S" and to the starter body, manually pull out the pinion fully. The pinion must remain at that position even when released from being held by hand.

  • 4. Return test. With a battery connected to the solenoid terminal "M" and to the starter body, manually pull out the pinion fully. The pinion must return to its original position when released from being held by hand.
  • 7. Pull out the reduction gear lever and lever spring from the front bracket.
  • 8. On the pinion side, pry the snap ring out, and pull out the pinion and pinion shaft.
  • 9. At each end of the armature, remove the ball bearing with a bearing puller. It is impossible to replace the ball bearing press-fitted in the front bracket. If that bearing has worn off, replace the front bracket assembly.

Page 72

STARTER INSPECTION

Solenoid

Inspect the solenoid for continuity between terminals S and M and between terminals S and body. No continuity should be found between S and M. Continuity should be found between S and the body and M and the body.

Inspecting The Armature

1. Check the armature with a growler tester. If it's short circuited, replace the armature. Also check for insulation between the communicator and its shaft. If poorly insulated, replace the armature.

2. Measure the commutator O.D. and the depth of undercut. Repair or replace it if the service limit is exceeded. Also check the commutator outside surface for dirtiness and roughness. If rough, polish the commutator with a fine crocus cloth.

Brush and Brush Holder Inspection

1. Check the brushes. If worn out beyond 10 mm, replace the brushes.

2. Check the brush spring tension. A weak or defective spring will cause excessive brush wear; replace the springs if suspect.

3. Check for insulation between the positive brush holder and holder base. If poorly insulated, replace the holder assembly. Also check the brush holders for proper staking.

Page 73

Field Coil Inspection

  • 1. Check for insulation between one end (brush) of the coil and yoke.
  • 2. Check for continuity between both ends (brushes) of the coil.
  • 3. Check the poles and coil for tightness.

STARTER ADJUSTMENT AND REASSEMBLY

CAUTION: Before installing, thoroughly clean the starter flange and mounting surfaces, remove all oil, old paint, and rust. Starter performance largely depends on the quality of the wiring. Use wire of sufficient size and grade between the battery and starter and fully tighten to the terminal.

Reassemble the starter assembly in the reverse order of disassembly, making sure of the following:

  • 1. Pinion shaft end play adjustment. Set the end play (thrust gap) to between 0.5 to 2 mm by inserting an adjusting washer between the center bracket and the reduction gear.
    • a. Fit the pinion shaft, reduction gear washer and snap ring to the center bracket.
    • b. Measure the end play by moving the pinion shaft in the axial direction. If the end play exceeds 0.5 mm, increase the number of adjusting washers inserted.

  • 2. Greasing . Whenever the starter has been overhauled, apply grease to the following parts:
    • a. Armature shaft gear and reduction gear.
    • b. All bearings.
    • c. Bearing shaft washers and snap rings.
    • d. Bearing sleeves.
    • e. Pinion.
    • f. Sliding portion of lever.

CAUTION: Never smear the starter fitting surface, terminals, brushes, or commutator with grease.

3. After reassembly, check by conducting a no-load test again.

Page 74

DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

DESCRIPTION

The DC Circuit functions to start, operate and stop the engine. The circuit is best understood by reviewing the DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS.

The engine's DC wiring is designed with three simple basic circuits: preheat, start, and run or stop .

Engine 12-Volt Control Circuit

The engine has a 12 volt DC electrical control circuit that is shown in the wiring diagrams. Refer to these diagrams when troubleshooting or when servicing the DC electrical system on the engine.

CAUTION: To avoid damage to the battery charging circuit, never shut off the engine battery switch while the engine is running. Shut off the engine battery switch, however, to avoid electrical shorts when working on the engine's electrical circuit.

CHARGING SYSTEM

The charging system consists of an alternator, a voltage regulator, an engine DC wiring harness, an engine-mounted DC circuit breaker, a battery and connecting wires. Because of the use of integrated circuits (IC's) the electronic voltage regulator is very compact and is mounted internally or on the back of the alternator.

ALTERNATOR TROUBLESHOOTING

If you suspect that the alternator is not producing enough voltage to charge the engine's battery, check the following:

WARNING: A failed alternator can become very hot. Do not touch until the alternator has cooled down.

  • ☐ Make certain your alternator is securely mounted.
  • Check the drive belts for proper tension.
  • □ Inspect for loose or disconnected wires at the alternator.

NOTE: An isolator with a diode, a solenoid, or a battery selector switch is usually mounted in the circuit to isolate the batteries so the starting battery is not discharged along with the house batteries. If the isolator is charging the starting battery but not the house battery, the alternator is OK and the problem is in the battery charging circuit.

A WARNING: Shut off the engine battery switch or disconnect from the battery when working on the engine electrical system.

Checking for Proper Voltage

If you suspect the alternator has failed, perform the following tests with the engine off:

  • 1. Using a voltmeter, connect the voltmeter red wire clip to the output terminal B.
  • 2. Connect the voltmeter negative wire to any ground on the engine.
  • 3. Check the battery voltage. If the battery is in good condition it should read 12 to 12.5 volts.
  • 4. Check the voltage between the alternator (+) positive terminal B and any engine ground. If the circuit is good, the voltage at the alternator should be the same as the battery (unless there's an isolator in the circuit, then the reading would be zero).

A CAUTION: To avoid damage to the battery charging circuit, never shut off the engine battery switch when the engine is running!

WARNING: Before starting the engine make certain that everyone is clear of moving parts! Keep away from sheaves and belts during test procedures.

5. Start the engine.

68

6. The voltage reading for a properly operating alternator should indicate between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. If your alternator is over- or uncercharging, have it repaired at a reliable service shop.

NOTE: Before removing the alternator for repair, use your voltmeter to ensure that 12 volts DC excitation is present at the EXC terminal if the previous test showed only battery voltage at the B output terminal.

Page 75

DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

BATTERY MAINTENANCE

Review the manufacturer's recommendations and then establish a systematic maintenance schedule for your engine's starting batteries and house batteries.

  • Monitor your voltmeter for proper charging during engine operation.
  • Check the electrolyte level and specific gravity with a hydrometer.
  • Use only distilled water to bring electrolytes to a proper level.
  • ☐ Make certain that battery cable connections are clean and tight to the battery posts (and to your engine).
  • □ Keep your batteries clean and free of corrosion.

WARNING: Sulfuric acid in lead batteries can cause severe burns on skin and damage clothing. Wear protective gear.

GLOW PLUGS

The glow plug is a small heater installed in each pre-combustion chamber. They run off the engine starting battery and become red hot when activated.

The glow plugs are wired through the preheat solenoid. When PREHEAT is pressed at the control panel this solenoid should "click" on and the glow plug should begin to get hot.

Glow plugs can be checked by unscrewing and holding them against a good ground (engine block) and turning them on. The tip should glow red hot. You can also use an ammeter to test the power drain (8 to 9 amps per plug) or an ohmmeter to test resistance (1.1 to 1.2 ohms).

WARNING: These glow plugs will become very hot to the touch. Be careful not to burn your fingers when testing plugs.

Reinstall the plugs in the engine and test them again. The plugs should get very hot (at the terminal end) within 20 to 25 seconds. If the plugs don't heat up quickly, check for a short circuit.

When installing the glow plugs, use anti-seize compound on the threads.

A CAUTION: Do not keep glow plugs on for more than 30 seconds.

TYPICAL GLOW PLUG

Page 76
DESCRIPTION

The alternator serves to keep the battery constantly charged. It is driven from the pulley at the end of the crankshaft by a V-belt. The type of alternator used is ideal for high speed engines having a wide range of engine speeds. It contains diodes that convert AC to DC, and an IC regulator that keeps the generated voltage constant even when the engine speed changes.

A CAUTION: Do not use any high-voltage tester such as a megger. Otherwise, damage to diodes will result.

During high-speed running of the engine, do not disconnect the positive or negative terminal of the battery from terminal B of the alternator. If this is done, diode failure will result.

With alternators having IC regulators, absolutely avoid a short circuit between terminals B and L. This would allow current to flow in the "diode trio" and damage it.

Do not start the engine with the lead disconnected from terminal B of the alternator. Otherwise, damage to the voltage regulator will result.

When charging the battery with a quick charger, be sure to disconnect the battery terminals to prevent damage to diodes.

NOTE: The alternator connections and color coding described on the following illustrations may vary from earlier WEST-ERBEKE engines. Always refer to the wiring diagrams in this manual and also make a quick sketch of your alternator wiring before disconnecting for service.

ALTERNATOR TROUBLESHOOTING

If you suspect that the alternator is not producing enough voltage to charge the engine's battery, check the following:

  • Make certain your alternator is securely mounted.
  • Check the drive belts for proper tension.
  • □ Inspect for loose or disconnected wires at the alternator

WARNING: A failed alternator can become very hot. Do not touch until the alternator has cooled down.

Testing The Charging Voltage

If you suspect the alternator has failed, perform the following tests.

  • 1. Using a voltmeter, connect the voltmeter red wire clip to the output terminal B.
  • 2. Connect the other voltmeter wire to any ground on the engine.
  • 3. Start the engine and record the voltmeter's readings.

CAUTION: To avoid damage to the battery charging circuit, never shut off the engine battery switch when the engine is running!

Page 77

The voltage reading for a properly operating alternator should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. If your alternator is over- or undercharging, have it repaired at a reliable service shop, or continue with the following tests.

NOTE: Before removing the alternator for repair, use your voltmeter to ensure that 12 volts DC excitation is present at the R (EXC) terminal if the previous test showed only battery voltage at the B output terminal.

Output Test

  • 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
  • 2. Disconnect the wire from terminal B on the alternator and connect an ammeter between B and this wire.
  • 3. Connect a voltmeter between terminal B (+) and ground (-).
  • 4. Connect to the P terminal.
  • 5. Reconnect the battery ground cable to the (-) terminal. The voltmeter should indicate the battery voltage.
  • 6. Connect B+ to the R terminal (regulator).
  • 7. Start the engine.
  • 8. Turn on 12 volt accessories equaling the amperage output of the alternator, accelerate the engine to the specified speed (2000 to 3000 rpm) and measure the output current. The output current should be close to the alternator's maximum ouput.
Output Current 1300 rpm 2500 rpm 5000 rpm
Hot 16 amp 41 amp 48 amp
Cold 24 amp 50 amp _

NOTE: rpm is that of the alternator. The pulley ratio (alternator vs crank pulley) is 1.78 to 1; all readings are at 13.5 volts.

DISASSEMBLY

1. After removing the three assembly through-bolts, insert a screwdriver between the front bracket and stator. While prying it, remove the front bracket and rotor.

NOTE: If the screwdriver is inserted too deep, the stator coil might be damaged.

  • 2. Hold the rotor in a vise and remove the pulley nut. Then remove the pulley, fan, spacer and seal. Next, remove the rotor from the front bracket and remove the seal.
  • 3. Unsolder the rectifier from the stator coil lead wires and remove the stator assembly.

NOTE: Make sure that the solder is removed quickly (in less than five seconds). If a diode is heated to more than 150°C (310°F), it might be damaged.

  • 4. Remove the condenser from terminal B.
  • 5. Unsolder the plates B and L from the rectifier assembly.
  • 6. Remove the mounting screw and B terminal bolt and remove the electronic voltage regulator and brush holder. The regulator and brush holder cannot be sepearated.
  • 7. Remove the rectifier assembly.
  • 8. Brush and brush spring replacement:

When only a brush or brush spring is to be replaced, it can be replaced without removing the stator, etc. With the brush holder assembly removed, unsolder the pigtail of the brush.

NOTE: If the terminals L and B of the rectifier assembly are bent, damage might result to the rectifier. Therefore, the plates B and L should be gently bent at the center.

Page 78

An alternate method for removing the stator winding, brush holder regulator unit and the I.C. diode rectifier assembly from the rear bracket. With the front bracket and rotor assembly separated from the rear half of the alternator:

1. Insert a flat-bladed screwdriver between the stator core and the edge of the rear bracket on the same side as the brush-holder. Raise this side of the stator core away from the bracket so as to open a gap of about 1/2 inch.

NOTE: Be careful not to allow the screwdriver blade to enter far enough to touch the stator winding.

  • 2. Maintaining the 1/2 inch gap, insert the screwdriver between the stator core and the bracket on the rectifier side and move the stator laterally toward the brush-holder for a distance of 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch without lifting it from the bracket.
  • 3. Insert a #2 Phillips screwdriver through this opening and remove the two screws holding the rectifier.

  • 4. Remove the nut anchoring the B terminal bolt and the capacitor mounted thereto on the outside rear of the bracket. Then remove the third Phillips screw holding the brush holder to the bracket.
  • 5. Carefully withdraw stator, brush holder and rectifier from the rear bracket as one loosely connected unit.

With the bracket out of the way, it is easy to unsolder the stator winding leads from the rectifier quickly to avoid heat damage to the diodes and I.C. chips. It is also easier to renew the brushes because there is no need to bend the connecting plates between the brush holder and the rectifier and possibly damage the rectifier.

When reversing this procedure, make sure that the stator winding leads are gently pushed back (from possible contact with the rotor body) after seating the stator into the rear bracket.

INSPECTION

Diode

Diode troubles are classified as open-circuit and short-circuit. When the diode is open-circuited, no current flows. In the short-circuited diode, current flows in both directions.

Checking for Short Circuit

Check for continuity between the (+) heat sink and the stator coil lead joint terminal and between the (-) heat sink and the said terminal. If each test shows current flow in both directions, the diodes are short-circuited. Replace the rectifier assembly.

Checking for Open Circuit

To check for an open circuit in the diodes which have passed the short-circuit test, disconnect the diode leads and check with your ohmmeter between the diode lead and the body, reversing the leads. If no continuity is found, the diode is open.

Checking Diode Trio

Check each of the three diodes for continuity. If any diode allows current flow in both directions or does not allow current to flow in one direction, replace the rectifier assembly.

Page 79

Stator

Disconnect the stator lead wires from the coil and check for continuity between the three leads with a circuit tester. If no continuity is found, the stator windings are open. Next, check for insulation between each lead and the core. If continuity is found, replace the stator.

Field Coil (Rotor)

Check resistance between the slip rings. The resistance must conform to the specified value.

Resistance Value: 3.87 \Delta \pm 10%

Check for continuity between the slip ring and the core. If there is continuity, it means that the coil or slip ring is grounded. Replace the rotor assembly.

Checking Brush and Brush Spring

Replace the brush if it has worn to the replacement value. Check the brush spring force. Also confirm that the brush moves smoothly in the brush holder.

Standard
Value
Replacement
Required at
Brush Length (mm) 18 8
Brush Spring Force (g) 370 ±60 210
Checking the Slip Ring

Because the slip ring wears very little, the diameter must be measured with a micrometer. Replace the rings (rotor assembly) when wear reaches the replacement value.

Standard
Value
Replacement
Required at
Slip Ring O.D. 33 mm 32.2 mm
Runout 0.03 mm or less 0.2 mm

The slip ring must be smooth with no surface oil. If necessary clean and polish with a fine crocus cloth.

REGULATOR

The regulator consists of a voltage regulator and a lamp relay; their wires are gathered into a connector. The voltage regulator is used to always keep the alternator output constant regardless of alternator speed and to cut off the flow of current to the field coil when necessary. The lamp relay is used on the Captain panel only to illuminate the panel light indicating no alternator charge. The 50A alternator has a built-in IC regulator. During alternator operation, field current is controlled automatically by the IC regulator.

  • 1. Connect an ammeter (approx. 60A rating) between the battery positive terminal and its cable.
  • Connect a voltmeter between the generator terminal L and the ground. In this case, the voltmeter must indicate "O". If otherwise indicated, a defective alternator or faulty wiring is suspected.

Page 80

  • 3. Turn the starting switch key to the ON position, and the voltmeter will indicate a value considerably lower than the battery voltage. If the indication is near the battery voltage, a defective generator is possible.
  • 4. With the ammeter short-circuited, start the engine.

CAUTION: If the ammeter is not short-circuited, a large starting current will burn out the ammeter coil.

  • 5. Increase the engine speed to between 2000 and 3000 rpm and read the ammeter.
  • 6. If the ammeter reading does not exceed 5A, read the voltmeter at that state (2000–3000 rpm). The voltmeter reading is the regulated voltage.
  • If the ammeter reading exceeds 5A, continue charging the battery until the ammeter reading drops to 5A or below; or replace the battery with a fully-charged one; or connect a 1/4Ω (25W) resistor in series to the battery to restrict charging current.
  • 8. The IC regulator is of the temperature compensation type and, therefore, regulated voltage varies with temperature. It is necessary to measure the temperature of the rear bracket (surrounding the regulator) and to use the measurement for correction of regulated voltage.

CHECKING THE IC REGULATOR VOLTAGE

REASSEMBLY

CAUTION: Connect the alternator properly. Should the polarity be reversed, a powerful current would flow from the battery into the alternator, damaging the diodes and wiring harness.

  • 1. Install the alternator support bolt through the alternator leg (underside) into the engine casting.
  • 2. Swing the alternator into position on the adjusting bracket and fasten. Lightly tighten.
  • 3. Adjust belt tension.
  • 4. Tighten both bolts and recheck belt tension.

Torque values:

Support bolt: 20 – 24 Nm (15 – 18 ft-lbs) Adjusting bracket bolt: 12 – 14 Nm (9 – 10 ft-lbs)

NOTE: Make certain the belts are perfectly aligned with the alternator and engine pulleys. If not, insert or remove spacers as needed, to align the alternator.

Page 81

TRANSMISSIONS

WESTERBEKE uses a variety of marine transmissions made by well-known marine manufacturers such as HURTH , ZF , BORG WARNER , PARAGON and others. If you require transmission parts, repair work or an overhaul, we recommend contacting the transmission manufacturer directly for information on the locations of authorized service facilities.

WESTERBEKE
Engines & Generators
75
Page 82

WESTERBEKE
Engines & Generators
76
Page 83

DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ENGINE WIRING SCHEMATIC #24666 KEY SWITCH

NOTES

NOTES ON BUILDER OWNERS RESPONSIBILITY

SWITCH

OTHER NOTES

(B) WARNING ; SENDER CONNECTION : CONTACT WITH B + MAY DAMAGE SENDER. © A RMS ARE THROUGH ENGINE BLOCK.

  • Ô FOR WIRING OF AUXILLARY ALTERNATORS SEE THE FOLLOWING DIAGRAMS
    • BS AMP, 11232 120 AMP, 11231 111 53 AMP, 16535
    • MP, 11231 AMP, 1653
  • © E SWITCHES ARE REQ'D TO START LEXIBLE HOSE MUST BE RUN FROM IFOLD TO A NEARDY BULKHEAD AND MOUNTED AT THE BULKHEAD.
  • © SILASTIC OR TIGHT WOUND AROUND CONNECTORS CON PLASTIC / SPLICE ELECTRICAL AROUND 6

TION : D BY A MANUAL RESET THE STARTER AND AS CLOSE PANEL, THIS EVENT BREAKER DISCONNECTS TI BUILDER OWNER MUST B WIRING AND ENGINE ARE BETWEEN THE TALLED TO PREV

B ITEMS 4, 6, 19 $ 20 WERE USED WITH PREVIOUS DESIGN.

77

Page 84

DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ENGINE WIRING DIAGRAM #33685 KEY SWITCH & TWO PUSHBUTTONS

Page 85

DC FLECTRICAL SYSTEM

ENGINE WIRING SCHEMATIC #33685 KEY SWITCH & TWO PUSHBUITTONS

NOTES: NOTES ON BUILDER OWNERS RESPONSIBILITY

SWITCH MUST BE INSTA , IN

OTHER NOTES

  • WARNING; SENDER CONNECTION: CONTACT WITH B + MAY DAMAGE SENDER. C ALL RETURNS ARE THROUGH ENGINE BLOCK.
  • ALL RETURNS ARE THROUGH ENGINE BLOCK. FOR WIRING OF AUXILLARY ALTERNATORS SEE THE FOLLOWING DIAGR MOTOROLA BSAMP, 11232 MOTOROLA 120 AMP, 11231 LEECE -NEVILLE 53 AMP, 16535 õ
  • Đ S ARE REQ'D TO START OSE MUST BE RUN FROM NEARBY BULKHEAD AND AT THE BULKHEAD .
  • APPLY SILASTIC OF TIGHT WOUND PLASTIC SPLICE ELECTRICAL TAPE AROUND CONVECTORS CONNECTED.
  • G CAUTION : TON : THIS PRODUCT IS F UIT BREAKER LOCATE ANUAL RESET RTER AND AS CLOSE R MOST ENC BREAKER

VESTERBEKE nes & Generators 79

Page 86

DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ENGINE WIRING DIAGRAM #36844 ADMIRAL PANEL

ALTERNATOR (354, 404, 504) [19] *IORE WATER TEMP SWITCH GLOWPLUGS (2,3,4,0R 6 DEPENDING O NUMBER OF CYLINDERS) IE II 16 14 LT. BLUE PREHEAT SOLENOID PRESSURE 21 12 YEL/RED FUEL SOLENOID SEE NOTE 2 OIL PRESSUF SENDER ON SOME MODELS ╤╧ GROUND TO ENGINE BLOCK NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH (USED ON SOME MODELS 14 TAN -0-ALARM BUZZEN 10 RED 14 GREEN ALTERNATOR - 51 A 18 17 14 LT. BLUE /44 LT. BLUE MALE CONNECT SBAT, OLT ME TE (MOU *IO BL FIO BLK PANEL

Page 87

DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

NOTES:

  • I. THIS PRODUCT IS PROTECTED BY A MANUAL RESET CIRCUIT BREAKER LOCATED NEAR THE STARTER. EXCESSIVE CURRENT DRAIN WILL CAUSE THE BREAKER TO TRIP AND THE ENGINE WILL SHUT DOWN.THE BUILDER/OWNER MUST BE SURE THAT THE INSTRUMENT PANEL, WIRING AND ENGINE ARE INSTALLED TO PREVENT CONTACT BETWEEN ELECTRICAL DEVICES AND SALTWATER.
  • 2. AN ON-OFF SWITCH SHOULD BE INSTALLED BETWEEN THE BATTERY AND STARTER TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY IN AN EMERGENCY AND WHEN LEAVING THE BOAT. A SWITCH WITH A CONTINUOUS RATING OF 175 AMPS AT 12VDC WILL SERVE THIS FUNCTION. THIS SWITCH SHOULD NOT BE USED TO MAKE OR BREAK THE CIRCUIT.

3. GRAY WIRE AT PLUG 2 IS UNUSED AND SHOULD BE INSULATED.

Page 88

DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

ENGINE WIRING DIAGRAM #36467 CAPTAIN PANEL

Engines & Generators

Page 89

DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ENGINE WIRING SCHEMATIC #36467

CAPTAIN PANEL

START - I TURN KEY TO ON POSITION. THE ALARM WILL SOUND, OIL PRESSURE AND BATTERY CHARGE INDICATORS WILL LIGHT.

2.PUSH PREHEAT SWITCH FOR 15 TO 60 SECONDS AS REQUIRED, ALARM WILL STOP.

3. WHILE CONTINUING TO PUSH PREHEAT SWITCH, PUSH THE START SWITCH ALSO. WHEN THE ENGINE STARTS RELEASE THE START SWITCH ONLY.

4.WHEN THE OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR LAMP GOES OUT RELEASE THE PREHEAT SWITCH.

STOP: TURN THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION.

NOTES:

  • I THIS PRODUCT IS PROTECTED BY A MANUAL RESET CIRCUIT BREAKER LOCATED NEAR THE STARTER EXCESSIVE CURRENT DRAIN WILL CAUSE THE BREAKER TO TRIP AND THE ENGINE WILL SHUT DOWN. THE BUILDER/OWNER MUST BE SURE THAT THE INSTRUMENT PANEL, WIRING AND ENGINE ARE INSTALLED TO PREVENT CONTACT BETWEEN ELECTRICAL DEVICES AND SALTWATER.
  • 2. AN ON-OFF SWITCH SHOULD BE INSTALLED BETWEEN THE BATTERY AND STARTER TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY IN AN EMERGENCY AND WHEN LEAVING THE BOAT. A SWITCH WITH A CONTINUOUS RATING OF 175 AMPS AT 12VDC WILL SERVE THIS FUNCTION. THIS SWITCH SHOULD NOT BE USED TO MAKE OR BREAK THE CIRCUIT.

3. PINK WIRE AT PLUG 2 IS UNUSED AND SHOULD BE INSULATED.

Page 90

DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

ENGINE WIRING DIAGRAM #39144 ADMIRAL & CAPTAIN PANELS

Engines & Generators 84

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DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

ENGINE WIRING SCHEMATIC #39144 ADMIRAL & CAPTAIN PANELS

Page 92

STANDARD HARDWARE

BOLT HEAD MARKINGS

Bolt strength classes are embossed on the head of each bolt.

Customary (inch) bolts are identifed by markings two to grade eight (strongest). The marks correspond to two marks less than the actual grade,

i.e.; a grade seven bolt will display five embossed marks.

Metric bolt class numbers identify bolts by their strength with 10.9 the strongest.

NOTES: 1. Use the torque values listed below when specific torque values are not available.

  • 2. These torques are based on clean, dry threads. Reduce torque by 10% when engine oil is used.
  • 3. Reduce torques by 30% or more, when threading capscrews into aluminum.
STANDARD BOLT & NUT TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Capsrew Body Size
(Inches) - (Thread)
SAE Grade 5
Torque
Ft-Lb (Nm)
SAE Grade 6-7
Torque
Ft-Lb (Nm)
SAE Grade 8
Torque
Ft-Lb (Nm)
1/4 - 20 8 (11) 10 (14) 12 (16)
- 28 10 (14) 14 (19)
5/16 - 18 17 (23) 19 (26) 24 (33)
- 24 19 (26) 27 (37)
3/8 - 16 31 (42) 34 (46) 44 (60)
- 24 35 (47) 49 (66)
7/16 - 14 49 (66) 55 (75) 70 (95)
- 20 55 (75) 78 (106)
1/2 - 13 75 (102) 85 (115) 105 (142)
- 20 85 (115) 120 (163)
9/16 - 12 110 (149) 120 (163) 155 (210)
- 18 120 (163) 170 (231)
5/8 - 11 150 (203) 167 (226) 210 (285)
- 18 170 (231) 240 (325)
3/4 - 10 270 (366) 280 (380) 375 (508)
- 16 295 (400) 420 (569)
7/8 - 9 395 (536) 440 (597) 605 (820)
- 14 435 (590) 675 (915)
1 - 8 590 (800) 660 (895) 910 (1234)
-14 660 (895) 990 (1342)
METRIC BOLT & NUT TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Bolt Wrench Size Grade 4.6 Grade 4.8 Grade 8.8 - 9.8 Grade 10.9
Dia. Ft-Lb (Nm) Ft-Lb (Nm) Ft-Lb (Nm) Ft-Lb (Nm)
M3 5.5 mm 0.3 (0.5) 0.5 (0.7) 1 (1.3) 1.5 (2)
M4 7 mm 0.8 (1.1) 1 (1.5) 2 (3) 3 (4.5)
M5 8 mm 1.5 (2.5 2 (3) 4.5 (6) 6.5 (9)
M8 10 mm 3 (4) 4 (5.5) 7.5 (10) 11 (15)
M9 13 mm 7 (9.5) 10 (13) 18 (25) 35 (26)
M10 16 mm 14 (19) 18 (25) 37 (50) 55 (75)
M12 18 mm 26 (35) 33 (45) 63 (85) 97 (130)
M14 21 mm 37 (50) 55 (75) 103 (140) 151 (205)
M16 24 mm 59 (80) 85 (115) 159 (215) 232 (315)
M18 27 mm 81 (110) 118 (160) 225 (305) 321 (435)
M20 30 mm 118 (160) 166 (225) 321 (435) 457 (620)
M22 33 mm 159 (215) 225 (305) 435 (590) 620 (840)
M24 36 mm 203 (275) 288 (390) 553 (750) 789 (1070)
M27 41 mm 295 (400) 417 (565) 811 (1100) 1154 (1565)
M30 46 mm 402 (545) 568 (770) 1103 (1495) 1571 (2130)
M33 51 mm 546 (740) 774 (1050) 1500 (2035) 2139 (2900)
M36 55 mm 700 (950) 992 (1345) 1925 (2610) 2744 (3720)

SEALANTS & LUBRICANTS

GASKETS/SEALANTS

Oil based PERMATEX #2 and it's HIGH TACK equivalent are excellent all purpose sealers. They are effective in just about any joint in contact with coolant, raw water, oil or fuel.

A light coating of OIL or LIQUID TEFLON can be used on rubber gaskets and O-rings.

LOCTITE hydraulic red sealant should be used on oil adapter hoses and the oil filter assembly.

Coat both surfaces of the oil pan gasket with high temp RED SILICONE sealer.

When installing gaskets that seal around water (coolant) passages, coat both sides with WHITE SILICONE grease.

High-copper ADHESIVE SPRAYS are useful for holding gaskets in position during assembly.

Specialized gasket sealers such as HYLOMAR work well in applications requiring non-hardening properties. HYLOMAR is particlarly effective on copper cylinder-head gaskets as it resists fuel, oil and water.

Use LIQUID TEFLON for sealing pipe plugs and fillings that connect coolant passages. Do not use tape sealants!

BOLTS & FASTENERS/ASSEMBLIES

Lightly oil head bolts and other fasteners as you assemble them. Bolts and plugs that penetrate the water jacket should be sealed with PERMATEX #2 or HIGH TACK.

When assembling the flywheel, coat the bolt threads with LOCTITE blue.

Anti-seize compounds and thread locking adhesives such as LOCTITE protect threaded components yet allows them to came apart when necessary. LOCTITE offers levels of locking according to the job.

LITHIUM based grease is waterproof, ideal for water pump bearings and stuffing boxes.

Heavily oil all sliding and reciprocating components when assembling. Always use clean engine oil!

Page 93

METRIC CONVERSIONS

INCHES TO MILLIMETERS MILLIMETERS TO INCHES ES
Inches mm Inches mm mm Inches mm Inches
1 25.40 15 381.00 1 0.0394 15 0.5906
2 50.80 20 508.00 2 0.0787 20 0.7874
3 76.20 25 635.00 3 0.1181 25 0.9843
4 101.60 30 762.00 4 0.1575 30 1.1811
5 127.00 35 889.00 5 0.1969 35 1.3780
10 254.00 40 1016.00 10 0.3937 40 1.5748
10 MI LLIMETERS = 1 CENTIMETE R, 100 CENTII Meters = 1 M eter = 39.37 II ICHES (3.3 FEET)
INCHES TO MET ERS | METERS TO INCHES
Inches Meters Inches Meters Meters Inches Meters Inches
1 0.0254 7 0.1778 0.1 3.937 0.7 27.559
2 0.0508 8 0.2032 0.2 7.874 0.8 31.496
3 0.0762 9 0.2286 0.3 11.811 0.9 35.433
4 0.1016 10 0.2540 0.4 15.748 1.0 39.370
5 0.1270 11 0.2794 0.5 19.685 1.1 43.307
6 0.1524 12 0.3048 0.6 23.622 1.2 47.244
TO CO NVERT METER S TO CENTI METERS, MOV e decimal po INT TWO PLAC ES TO THE R IGHT
YARDS TO MET ERS METERS TO YARDS
Yards Meters Yards Meters Meters Yards Meters Yards
1 0.91440 6 5.48640 1 1.09361 6 6.56168
2 1.82880 7 6.40080 2 2.18723 7 7.65529
3 2.74320 8 7.31520 3 3.28084 8 8.74891
4 3.65760 9 8.22960 4 4.37445 9 9.84252
5 4.57200 10 9.14400 5 5.46807 10 10.93614
М OVE DECIMAL P POINT FOR H IIGHER VALUE S — e.g. 6,00 0 METERS = 6,5 61.68 YARD S
POUNDS 1 RAMS KIL OGRAMS T DS
lb kg lb kg kg lb kg lb
1 0.454 6 2.722 1 2.205 6 13.228
2 0.907 7 3.175 2 4.409 7 15.432
3 1.361 8 3.629 3 6.614 8 17.637
4 1.814 9 4.082 4 8.818 9 19.842
5 2.268 10 4.536 5 11.023 10 22.046
GALLON S TO LIT ERS L ITERS TO G ALLONS
Gallons Liters Gallons Liters Liters Gallons Liters Gallons
1 3.79 10 37.86 1 0.26 60 15.66
2 7.57 20 75.71 2 0.53 90 23.77
3 11.36 30 113.57 5 1.32 120 31.32
4 15.14 40 151.42 10 2.64 150 39.62
5 18.93 50 189.28 20 5.28 180 47.54
PINTS TO LITE RS LITERS TO PINTS
Pints Liters Pints Liters Liters Pints Liters Pints
1 0.47 6 2.84 1 2.11 6 12.68
2 0.95 7 3.31 2 4.23 7 14.79
3 1.42 8 3.79 3 6.34 8 16.91
4 1.89 9 4.26 4 8.45 9
5 2.37 4./3 10.57 10 21.13
32 40 DU 00 /
J
00 90 с Г
_
I I 1 1 I 1 1 1 1
Δ 5 10 15 2 0 25 20 22 40 60 80 10 ∩ °∩

WESTERBEKE Engines & Generators

87

Page 94

GENERATOR INFORMATION

USE OF ELECTRIC MOTORS

The power required to start an electric motor is considerably more than is required to keep it running after it is started. Some motors require much more current to start them than others. Split-phase (AC) motors require more current to start. under similar circumstances, than other types. They are commonly used on easy-starting loads, such as washing machines, or where loads are applied after the motor is started such as small nower tools. Because they require 5 to 7 times as much current to start as to run, their use should be avoided, whenever possible, if the electric motor is to be driven by a small generator. Capacitor and repulsion-induction motors require from 2 to 4 times as much current to start as to run. The current required to start any motor varies with the load connected to it. An electric motor connected to an air compressor, for example, will require more current than a motor to which no load is connected.

In general, the current required to start 115-volt motors connected to medium starting loads will be approximately as follows:

MOTOR SIZE (HP) AMPS FOR RUNNING
(AMPERES)
AMPS FOR STARTING
(AMPERES)
1/6 3.2 6.4 – 22.4*
1/4 4.6 9.2 – 32.2*
1/3 5.2 10.4 – 72.8*
1/2 7.2 14.4 – 29.2
3/4 10.2 20.4 - 40.8
1 13.0 26 – 52

*NOTE: In the above table the maximum "Amps for Starting" is more for some small motors than for larger ones. The reason for this is that the hardest starting types (split-phase) are not made in larger sizes.

Because the heavy surge of current needed for starting motors is required for only an instant, the generator will not be damaged if it can bring the motor up to speed in a few seconds. If difficulty is experienced in starting motors, turn off all other electrical loads and, if possible, reduce the load on the electric motor.

REQUIRED OPERATING SPEED

Although individual units may vary slightly, the normal voltage and frequency of typical 60 (50) hertz engine-driven generators described in this manual are approximately as follows: run first with no-load applied, then at half the generator's capacity, and finally loaded to its full capacity as indicated on the generator's data plate.

The output voltage should be checked periodically to ensure proper operation of the generating plant and the appliances it supplies.

GENERATOR FREQUENCY ADJUSTMENT

Frequency is a direct result of engine/generator speed, as indicated by the following:

  • □ When the generator is run at 1800 rpm, the AC voltage output frequency is 60 hertz.
  • □ When the generator is run at 1500 rpm, the AC voltage output frequency is 50 hertz.

Therefore, to change the generator's frequency, the generator's drive engine's speed must be changed.

GENERATOR MAINTENANCE

  • Maintaining reasonable cleanliness is important. Connections of terminal boards and rectifiers may become corroded, and insulation surfaces may start conducting if salts, dust, engine exhaust, carbon, etc. are allowed to build up. Clogged ventilation openings may cause excessive heating and reduced life of windings.
  • For unusually severe conditions, thin rust-inhibiting petroleum-base coatings should be sprayed or brushed over all surfaces to reduce rusting and corrosion. Typical materials suggested are Ashland Tectyle 506 and Daubert Chemical Co. Non-Rust AC-410.
  • In addition to periodic cleaning, the generator should be inspected for (a) tightness of all connections, (b) evidence of overheated terminals, and (c) loose or damaged wires.
  • □ The drive discs on single bearing generators should be checked periodically if possible for tightness of screws and for any evidence of incipient cracking failure. Discs should not be allowed to become rusty because rust may accelerate cracking. The bolts which fasten the drive disc to the generator shaft must be hardened steel SAE grade 8, identified by 6 radial marks, one at each of the 6 corners of the head.
  • ☐ The rear armature bearing is lubricated and sealed; no maintenance is required. However, if the bearing becomes noisy or rough-sounding, have it replaced.
  • Examine the bearing at periodic intervals. No side movement of the shaft should be detected when force is applied. If side motion is detectable, the bearings are wearing or wear on the shaft of the bearing socket outside bearing has occurred. Repair must be made quickly or major components will rub and cause major damage to the generator.
  • Examine the control box at periodic intervals to detect cracks from engine and generator vibration. If cracks in the box are seen, engine vibration may be severe, requiring bracing in the box for additional strength to resist vibration.

GENERATOR TROUBLESHOOTING

A complete and illustrated text on troubleshooting and servicing the WMD, BT and BC generators is furnished in the following pages.

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WMD GENERATOR

DESCRIPTION

The WMD model generator is a self-exciting and self-regulating brush style generator, requiring only a driving force to produce voltage. It is four lead reconnectable for 115 volts or 115/230 volts, and has a four pole revolving armature with no DC brushes or commutator. It has a solid state bridge rectifier in the exciter circuit. AC slip rings, a drip-proof construction, and a single bearing design. Voltage regulation is 7% no-load to full-load, and frequency regulation is 3-4 hertz no-load to full-load. It is in insulation class "F" as defined by MFMA MGI-1 65 and it's temperature rise is within MEMA MGI-22.40 definition when operating at fullload. It's centrifugal-type blower fan is direct connected to the armature shaft for cooling. Capacitors across the hot leg and neutral minimize radio interference within the limits of most commercial and civilian applications. The armature is balanced laminated steel, double dipped and baked. The field ring is thick hot rolled steel with a welded bearing support bracket, machined as an assembly for precise bearing alignment. The rear carrier bearing is pre-lubricated, double sealed with an anti-rotation lock.

WMD GENERATOR SPECIFICATIONS
WMD 4.4 115 VAC 34.7 amp at 115 VAC
WMD 6.0 115 or 115/230 VAC 25.7 amp at 230 VAC
WMD 7.7 115 or 115/230 VAC 33.5 amp at 230 VAC
WMD 8.0 115 or 115/230 VAC 34.0 amp at 230 VAC
Frequency: Frequency: 60 Hz Standard (50 Hz available at reduced rating)
RPM: 1800–60 Hz; 1500–50 Hz
VOLTAGE: Normal 115 VAC 230 VAC
Maximum (no load) 132 VAC 264 VAC
N /linimum (full load) 108 VAC 216 VAC
Excitation Voltage: 115 VAC (output voltage supplied to rectifier)
Field Excitation Voltage: 190 VDC (approximate)

DISASSEMBLY

  • 1. Lift and support the back end of the engine so that the generator is not resting on its isolators.
  • 2. Remove the generator endbell cover. This exposes the fan and brush rig assembly. Remove the fan assembly with its hardware.
  • 3. Remove the brush rig assembly. This can be done in two half assemblies. Unbolt the two half-moon assemblies from the frame attachment and lift the two halves away from the slip rings. Mark the polarity of the two leads on the bridge rectifier that go to the field coils and unplug these from the bridge rectifier. The two half-moon brush assemblies can be removed from the generator by removing the heavy output leads G1, G2, G3 and G4 from their attachment point on each brush holder. Make a rough sketch as to where each of these leads attaches on each assembly half. There are 8 leads that are paired in the control panel to provide four reconnectable leads. Inspect and replace components in the brush rig as needed.
  • 4. Remove the control panel from the top of the generator housing. Mark all leads as needed for proper assembly.
  • 5. Unbolt the generator housing from the bellhousing. A puller may be needed at the bearing end to assist in pulling the housing with or without the bearing off the armature. Some gentle prying at the bellhousing end will be needed

as well. The housing with field coils is heavy. Once the housing has cleared the armature shaft, it should be supported and slowly drawn over the armature. Try not to drag it over the armature.

INSPECTION

  • 1. Inspect the bearing and replace as needed. If the unit is going through a major overhaul, bearing replacement is recommended.
  • 2. Check the field coils resistance values. Remove the field coils from the housing. Note and mark each field coil's position in the housing. Do not mix them up! Each coil has a different part number and a specific position in the housing. Incorrect assembly will cause low voltage output.
  • 3. Unbolt the armature from the flywheel. Test the armature with an ohmmeter. Clean the slip rings and polish using a crocus cloth.

REASSEMBLY

Reassemble in reverse order.

NOTE: When assembling the housing onto the generator armature, be sure to properly align the anti-slip groove in the bearing with the hole in the housing and install a new lock pin.

The fan on the back end plays an important part in moving air through the generator for cooling. In installations where surrounding air is limited, outside air should be ducted to the area of the screened endbell inlet to provide this needed air for cooling, and combustion as well.

The security of the generator fan hold down nut should be checked at installation (commissioning), at the initial 50-hour servicing of the generator unit, and periodically thereafter (200-300 hours). The cooling fan securing nut should be tight enough so that when force is applied to rotate the fan by pushing on the outer edge and blades with the palm of your hand (protect the hand with a cloth or a glove), you should be able to turn the generator and engine without the fan slipping on the shaft. If properly torqued and the fan still slips, replace the lockwashers.

Recirculation of generator cooling air through the generator must be avoided. The generator compartment ventilation must be sufficient to prevent generator air recirculation. Insure that the screened endbell inlet and the screened discharge slots at the flywheel are not obstructed, preventing good air circulation through the generator while it is running.

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WMD GENERATOR TROUBLESHOOTING

90

NO ELECTRICAL OUTPUT

  • 1. Remove the load from the generator and verify no output directly at the generator output leads with a voltmeter.
  • 2. Check for proper electrical connections. Refer to the INTERNAL WIRING DIAGRAMS .

NOTE: The generator armature slip rings and brush rigs are numbered from inboard at the windings or flywheel end outward toward the rear support bearing.

3. For a residual voltage check, disconnect the field leads from the bridge rectifier. Note the position of the leads on the rectifier (+) to (+) and (-) to (-). Operate the generator and check the AC output (no load on generator). Measure the voltage between the neutral lead and the hot lead(s) (3 and 4 wire unit - 2.5 volts AC each hot lead to neutral approximate).

If the residual voltage checks OK: you can assume the rotating armature and brush rig are OK. The generator's problem lies in the rectifier and/or the field coils.

If residual voltage is not present: Check the brush rig and the static capacitors. Check the rotating armature resistance values and the continuity check found under Flash Field Coils .

4. Test the operation of the generator by bypassing the bridge rectifier. Apply 12 volts DC to the field leads on the bridge rectifier (+) to (+) and (-) to (-). Run the generator (no-load). Measure the voltage output at the generator leads. Generator output with 12 volts DC excitation to the field coils should be 50 to 70 volts AC. If 50 to 70 volts AC is produced, this should indicate that the generator is OK, and that the bridge rectifier is defective.

5. If no voltage is produced, check the static capacitor(s) that it is not shorted to ground. If one is found faulty, remove the connection from the output terminal at the brush rig and repeat Step #3.

FLASH FIELD COILS

1. Units may lose their residual magnetism from extended storage, or rough handling during installation or disassembly and assembly for installation, etc., requiring the field coils to be excited with 6 to 12 volts DC to restore the magnetism to the generator. This is done in the following manner:

Stop the engine and remove the generator endbell cover. This will expose the cooling fan, brush rig assembly and rectifier. Check internal wiring (see diagram). The positive (+) lead from the field coils is connected to the positive marked terminal on the rectifier and the negative (-) lead from the field coils is connected to the opposite unmarked terminal on the rectifier. Using jumper leads with insulated alligator clips, connect 6 to 12 volts DC battery positive to the positive of the rectifier and negative to the unmarked terminal of the rectifier for approximately 10 seconds. This should restore magnetism to the stationary field coils.

CAUTION: Be careful not to connect DC voltage to the AC terminals on the rectifier, as this will damage the rectifier.

Remove the alligator clip connections; replace the endbell cover and operate the generator and check AC output voltage.

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WMD GENERATOR TROUBLESHOOTING

2. Check for a short or open in the rotating armature or in the stationary field coils.

ROTATING ARMATURE (RESISTANCE VALUES)
WMD 4.4 (2-WIRE) 1 OHM OR LESS SLIP RING TO SLIP RING
WMD 4.4 (3-WIRE) 1 OHM OR LESS BETWEEN SLIP RINGS 1 & 3
WMD 6.0, 7.7, 8.0 1 OHM OR LESS BETWEEN SLIP RINGS 1 & 3 AND 2 & 4

NOTE: 4-wire units: there should be no continuity found between slip rings (1&2), (2&3) and (3&4). If continuity is found, an internal short exists between these windings and the armature should be replaced.

NOTE: There should be no continuity found between any of the slip rings and the armature's central steel shaft. If continuity is found, the windings are shorted to the shaft and the armature should be replaced.

Rotating armature slip rings are numbered from inboard of the generator flywheel end outward to the rear support bearing. When referring to 2, 3 and 4-wire units, these are the number of generator output leads being connected to the load. You will find on the WMD models that there are 3 to 4 leads coming from the brush rig. These are combined to produce the voltage output wanted (see the WMD wiring diagrams in this section). The number of wires can also be related to the number of slip rings on the rotating armature.

REPLACEMENT OF FIELD COIL(S)

1. Field coils are connected in series and the resistance value given in this text is the total of the four field coils. To determine the resistance value of one, divide by four. Each field coil has a mounting position on the generator housing and cannot be interchanged with another field coil.

When installing a replacement field coil(s), the installer must ensure that the coil is correct for the mounting position in the housing and will have the correct polarity when excited with 9–12 volts DC.

The field coil shoes that hold the coil securely to the generator housing are held in place by bolts that must be properly tightened when the coil and shoe are installed to the generator housing. When connecting the coils in series ensure the butt connections are good and secure and positioned away from rotating parts.

To ensure the field coils have been positioned properly in the generator housing and will have the correct polarity, the following test must be made before reassembly of the generator.

a. Connect a 9–12 volt DC battery to the leads off the coils that would normally be connected to the (+) and (-) connectors of the bridge rectifier. These leads are unmarked and the polarity in their connection to the DC battery is not important.

NOTE: When removing the leads from the battery and reconnecting them to the bridge rectifier, you should maintain the same polarity as used in this test: plus lead to (+) on rectifier and negative to unmarked (-) connection to rectifier.

TESTING THE FIELD COILS

b. Using a 3-inch iron bolt or its equivalent, place this bolt between each adjoining field coil/shoes. It should be held in place by the magnetic attraction set up between the coil/shoes by the 9–12 volts excitation of the field coils. Should this fail to happen between any of the four adjoining coils/shoes, then an incorrect coil is installed and must be removed and the correct one installed; otherwise the generator, when assembled, will not produce proper voltage.

LOW VOLTAGE OUTPUT

1. Verify the voltage output at the generator output leads with load applied to the generator; check the no-load condition also. Check the voltage at the load. Check the rating for the generator and verify the load with an amp probe at the output leads. Check all connections to ensure they are clean and secure. Ensure that the wire size carrying the voltage to the load is of sufficient size so as not to produce a voltage drop.

NOTE: Beware of motor starting loads and the amperage draw placed on the generator from these types of loads. Generally, the amperage draw of a motor at start-up will be 3–5 times the amperage needed when running.

Ensure that the engine no-load speed is producing 125–132 (250–264) volts from the generator. Lower no-load voltage can result in low output voltage at rated amperage output.

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WMD GENERATOR TROUBLESHOOTING

2. Check the generator with a Hertz meter:

No-Load Hertz 61–61.5 (51–51.5)
No-Load Voltage 130–132 volts (generator cold)
No-Load Voltage 126–130 volts (generator hot)

3. Test the Bridge Rectifier. The bridge rectifier may be faulty and should be checked as follows:

The field excitation rectifier is a full-wave bridge rectifier. This type of rectifier has four terminals: two AC, a DC positive, and a DC negative. The rectifier is tested in the following manner: Connect one ohmmeter lead to the positive DC terminal, and the other lead to each of the AC terminals in turn. A high or low resistance reading will be obtained. Reverse the meter leads, and an opposite reading should be observed. Now check from the negative terminal to each of the AC terminals, using the same procedures as above. Check each terminal to the case, and no resistance reading should be observed.

If a battery-powered test light is used, follow the procedures described above. If the rectifier is good, the light will come on, in one direction only.

If the rectifier fails any of the above tests, it should be considered defective and replaced.

4. Check the field coil resistance as per the following specifications:

FIELD COIL RESISTANCE (TOTAL)
WMD 4.4 32.5 OHMS ±5%
WMD 6.0 31.5 OHMS ±5%
WMD 7.7, 8.0 22.5 OHMS ±5%

  • 5. Insufficient cooling of the generator. Ambient air entering the generator should not exceed 104°F (40°C). Operating efficiency of the generator decreases as the ambient air temperature entering the generator endbell increases above 104°F. Generators in confined areas may require the ducting of cool outside air into the compartment, directed toward the inlet at the generator endbell.
  • 6. Check the condition of the brushes for wear and contact with the slip rings on the armature. Ensure that the brushes are not sticking in the holders.
  • 7. Condenser Testing. Condensers are built into the generator circuit to minimize radio interference during operation. If a condenser shorts out, it shorts the generator output. To determine whether a condenser is shorted, stop the generator, disconnect the lead wire from the brush holder to which the condenser is connected, start the generator and check the output. If the generator then provides power, the condenser was at fault and should be replaced. (If the generator did not provide power after the lead wire was disconnected, the problem was not caused by that condenser.) Reconnect the lead wire.

NOTE: There should be no continuity found between the lead end from the condenser and the metal case of the condenser. If so, the condenser is shorted.

HIGH VOLTAGE OUTPUT

1. Verify the voltage at the generator output leads.

No-Load Voltage 126–130 volts (generator hot) 61.5–62.0 hertz

2. Check the internal wiring of the generator leads attached to the brush rig and the leads from the brush rig feeding AC to the bridge rectifier. One connection is from a hot brush rig and the other must be from a neutral brush rig.

SOLENOID WITH THROTTLE LINKAGE

The solenoid plunger must move smoothly and rapidly into the solenoid when the solenoid is electrically energized, drawing with it the engine throttle arm into the set speed run position. Failure of the solenoid plunger to bottom in the solenoid will result in a failed solenoid.

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WMD GENERATOR AC INTERNAL WIRING DIAGRAMS

60 Hz — 4 WIRE RECONNECTABLE

60 Hz --- 4 WIRE RECONNECTABLE

50 Hz — 2 WIRE RECONNECTABLE

ingines & Generato 93

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DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WMD GENERATOR WIRING DIAGRAM #24700

Engines & Generators 94

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