LAY-UP
&
RECOMMISSIONING
General
Many owners rely on their boatyards to prepare their craft,
including engines and generators, for lay-up during the offseason
or
for long periods
of
inactivity. Others prefer to
accomplish lay-up preparation themselves.
The procedures which follow will allow you to perform your
own lay-up and recommissioning,
or
will serve as a checklist
if
others do the procedures.
These procedures should provide protection for your
engine/generator during a lay-up and also help familiarize
you with its maintenance needs.
If
you have any questions regarding lay-up procedures, call
your local servicing dealer.
He
will
be
more than willing to
provide assistance.
Propeller
Shaft
Coupling
[Propulsion
Engine]
The transmission and propeller half couplings should always
be opened up and the bolts removed when the boat is hauled
out
of
the water
or
moved from land to water, and during
storage in the cradle. The flexibility
of
the boat often puts a
severe strain on the propeller shaft
or
coupling
or
both, while
the boat is taken out or
put
in the water. In some cases, the
shaft has actually been bent
by
these strains. This does not
apply to small boats that are hauled out
of
the water when
not in use, unless they have been
dry for a considerable
period
oftime.
Fresh
Water
Cooling
Circuit
[Propulsion
Engine]
A 50-50 solution
of
antifreeze and distilled water
is
recom-
mended for use
in
the fresh water cooling system at all times.
This solution may require a higher concentration
of
antifreeze,
depending
on
the area's winter climate. Check the solution to
make sure the antifreeze protection is adequate.
Should more antifreeze be needed, drain an appropriate amount
from the engine block and add a more concentrated mixture.
Operate the engine to ensure a complete circulation and mixture
of
the antifreeze concentration throughout the cooling
system. Then recheck the antifreeze solution's strength.
Lubrication
System
With the engine warm, drain all the engine oil from the oil
sump. Remove and replace the oil filter and fill the sump
with new oil.
Use the correct grade
of
oil. Refer to the
ENGINE LUBRICATING OIL pages in this manual for
"engine oil change".
Run
the engine and check for proper oil pressure and make
sure there are no leaks.
A
CAUTION:
Do
not
leave
the
engine's
old
engine
oil
in
the
sump
over
the
lay-up
period.
Engine
oil
and
combustion
deposits
combine
to
produce
harmful
chemicals
which
can
reduce
the
life
of
your
engine's
internal
parts.
Fuel
System
[Gasoline]
Top off your fuel tanks with unleaded gasoline
of
89 octane
or higher. A fuel conditioner such as
STABIL gasoline
stabilizer should
be
added. Change the element in your
gasoline/water separator and clean the metal bowl.
Re-install and make certain there are no leaks. Clean
up any spilled fuel.
Fuel
System
[Diese~
Top off your fuel tanks with No.2 diesel fuel. Fuel additives
such as
BlOB OR and STABIL should be added at this time to
control algae and condition the fuel. Care should be taken
that the additives used are compatible with the primary fuel
filter/water separator used in the system. Change the element
in your primary fuel filter/water separator,
if
the fuel system
has one, and clean the separator sediment bowl.
Change the fuel filter elements on the engine and bleed the
fuel system, as needed.
Start the engine and allow it to run
for 5 - 10 minutes to make sure no air is left
in
the fuel
system. Check for any leaks that may have been created in
the fuel system during this servicing, correcting them as
needed. Operating the engine for 5 - 10 minutes will help
allow movement
of
the treated fuel through the injection
equipment on the engine.
Raw
Water
Cooling
Circuit
Close the through-hull fitting. Remove the raw water intake
hose from the fitting.
Place the end
of
this hose into a five
gallon bucket
of
clean fresh water. Before starting the engine,
check the zinc anode found in the primary heat exchanger
on
the engine and clean
or
replace it
as
required and also clean
any zinc debris from inside the heat exchanger where the
zinc anode is located. Clean the raw water strainer.
Start the engine and allow the raw water pump to draw the
fresh water through the system.
When
the bucket is empty,
stop the engine and refill the bucket with an antifreeze
solution slightly stronger than needed for winter freeze
protection in your area.
Start the engine and allow all
of
this mixture to be drawn
through the raw water system.
Once the bucket is empty, stop
the engine. This antifreeze mixture should protect the raw
water circuit from freezing during the winter lay-up, as well
as providing corrosion protection.
Remove the impeller from your raw water pump (some
antifreeze mixture will accompany it, so catch it in a bucket).
Examine the impeller. Get a replacement,
if
needed, and a
cover gasket.
Do
not replace the impeller (into the pump)
until recommissioning, but replace the cover and gasket.
Intake
Manifold
and
Thru-Hull
Exhaust
Place a clean cloth, lightly soaked
in
lubricating oil, in the
opening
of
the intake manifold
to
block the opening.
Do
not
shove the cloth out
of
sight. (If it is not visible at
recommissioning, and an attempt is made to start the engine,
you may need assistance
of
the servicing dealer). Make a
note to remove the cloth prior to start-up. The thru-hull
exhaust port can be blocked in the same manner.
Engines & Generators
43