6
ASSEMBLY (CONTINUED)
NOTE: Tighten screws snugly, but do not over tighten (use special care with a power screwdriver).
NOTE: Where colored hardware is called out, use the color coordinated to the laminate.
PREASSEMBLE MISCELLANEOUS PARTS
NOTE: The side panels have a notch in the bottom front corner.
1. If Two Full-Length Cabinet Doors will be installed:
Side Panels - (#22 and #23)
a. Lay the side panels (#22 and 23) flat, with their outside
surface up. Note: The outside surface has the largest
part of the crimp lock nut showing.
b. See Detail A. Use a plastic mallet to pound 8-32 screw inserts (#10 oyster) into the twelve holes (four sets of
three holes) located approximately 19/
3
2
" and 1 3/8" from the front edge of both panels. The inserts will be used
later for hinge screws. Refer to pages 10-11
c. Insert 1/4" screw inserts (#9) into the larger holes along the bottom notched edge of both panels.
Front Bottom Stretcher (#50)
a. Lay the front bottom stretcher (#50) flat, with the recessed holes side up.
b. Insert 1/4" screw inserts (#8 coordinated color) into the four larger holes. Note: Two of the holes are recessed.
Back Panel (#21)
a. Insert 1/4" screw inserts (#9) into the three larger holes along the top edge of one of the back panels.
NOTE: The panels are large and hard to keep aligned when you attach them together with screws. Because of this, in
several of the following steps you will be told to “peg” the parts first by inserting wood dowels (#6). These
dowels fit snugly into existing
5
/16"-diameter holes in the panels, and may have to be tapped into place.
2. Insert wood dowels into the side edges of the top panel (#20), the top edge of the top front stretcher panel (#48), and
in the notched out area of the side panels (#22 and 23).
ASSEMBLE THE MAIN PANELS
3. Turn the side panels on edge, with their front edges down. Using the wood dowels, peg the side panels to the top
panel. Then attach the side panels to the side edges of the top panel and the ends of the top front stretcher panel with
2"hex-socket screws (#2 oyster). Tighten the screws using the allen wrench or bit packed with these instructions.
4. With the screw inserts to the inside and edge banding to the middle of the cabinet, peg the two back panels (#21)
together. Attach the back panels to the side and top panels, using the 2" hex-socket screws (#2 oyster).
5. Insert
1
/4" screw inserts (#9) into the three larger holes along the bottom back panel. Attach the back panel using hex
socket machine screw (#3).
6. Attach the frame assembly (#55) to the inside of the side and rear panels with the weldnuts facing down towards the
bottom of cabinet, using 40 mm hex-socket screws (#3 oyster) inside the cabinet and
1
/4" screw inserts (#9 oyster)
outside. Do not tighten the screws.
ATTACH THE GLIDES AND LEVELERS
7. To protect corners and edges while moving the cabinet into place, push or hammer plastic tack glides (#13, not shown)
into the bottom edge of the side panels, about 2" from the corners.
8. Screw the four short levelers (#51) into the frame assembly.
NOTE: If the floor is excessively uneven longer levelers have been included and may be substituted as needed. Full
thread engagement is required on all levelers when installed.
SET THE CABINET UPRIGHT
9. Set the assembled cabinet upright.
10. Attach the bottom front stretcher (#50) to the side panel using the hex-socket screws (#2), hex-socket screw, then use
the 40 mm (#3) and screw insert (#9) to attach the side panel.
11. See Detail B. Attached the rubber bumper (#15) to the bottom front stretcher (#50).
12. Tighten all screws in the cabinet.
INSTALL THE SUPPORT GROUP
13. Refer to operation instructions on pages 7-8.
LEVEL THE CABINET AND MAKE FINAL ADJUSTMENTS
14. Move the cabinet to its intended location, and level it by using a 1/4" socket or screwdriver before putting the floor in
the cabinet. Refer to the leveling procedure on page 9. Insert the floor with the cutout forward.
15. To attach doors, refer to pages 10-11. To attach two or more cabinets together, and to secure the cabinet(s) to the
back wall, refer to pages 12-13.
16. If the cabinet is to be free-standing, it is advisable to use suitable floor-anchoring fasteners to hold the side panels
stationary. Be sure that the cabinet is square and plumb before anchoring.