Wellsaw 613 User Manual

Parts List
4
613
MODEL
Manual Bandsaw
and
Built better to work stronger and last longer
Operating & Maintenance Manual
REV 140502
2829 N. Burdick St. Kalamazoo, MI 49004
rdick St. Kalamazoo, MI 4900
www.wellsaw.com
Index
A
0
W
Model 613 Specifications
General
utomatic Stop
Blade Brushes Blade Selection Guide Dash Pot, Hydraulic Feed Feed Pressure Adjustment Fixed Vise Jaw Gear Box Repair Lubrication Maintenance Motor Switch Notes on Sawing 4 Placing Blade on Saw 6 Receiving & Installation Safety Rules 3 Servicing Blade Guides Service Kits Sliding Vise Jaw Trouble Shooting Warranty Wheel Pitch Adjustment
22
Drawings
Blade Brush Assembly Blade Guide Assembly Bed Assembly 12 Coolant System Electrical Controls Frame Assembly Hydraulic System 18 Leg & Chip Pan 14 Motor & Gear Box 18 Right Tensioning Device
16 16
18 20
-
1
14
Parts Lists & Part Numbers
Blade Brush Assembly 17 Blade Guide Assembly Bed Assembly Coolant System Electrical Controls/Diagram Frame Assembly 11 Hydraulic System Leg & Chip Pan Motor & Gear Box Right Tensioning Device
17
13 19 21
18 15 19
15
Capacity
6 8
6 6 6 7 8 7 8
3 7
9
6 4
Rectangular 6' high x 13' wide Round 7” diameter
Flat 13' wide 4 5° Angle 6' high x 6.5' wide
Blade Speed 50-90-160-250 FPM
Motor 3/4 HP, 115-230/60/1 or 206-230-460/60/3
Drive V-Belt
Blade Size 3/4” x .035"x8'3"
Swivel Vise To 45°
Vise control Manual Screw
9 7
Band Wheels 11' dia.
Height to top of bed 29'
Coolant System 8 gallon w/115VAC submersible pump
Recommended Workload Weight 600 lbs.
Floor Space 25" x 60'
Shipping weight (approximate) 650 lbs.
Parts Ordering
For your convenience:
When contacting your Wellsaw supplier
or the Company for parts or service,
it is essential that you have both your saw
Serial Number and Purchase Date available.
Jot them down here for handy reference.
Serial Number _____________________
Purchase Date ____________________
Fill out and return your Warranty Card
so that you can be kept informed of developments concerning your
ellsaw.
Forward
2. Keep Guards in Place
Keep guards in place and in good working order.
The Model 613 Wellsaw has been designed and manufactured to conform to WeIlsaw's recognized high standards of quality and performance. Each saw must pass a series of final inspection tests, including actual metal cutting operations, before it is shipped. For this saw to provide satisfactory service, it is necessary that it be properly installed, operated and maintained. This manual has been prepared to assist you in carrying out these functions. We urge you to study this manual and follow its suggestions.
Receiving and Installation
Uncrating
Carefully remove the protective crating and skid so the saw and its parts are not marred or otherwise damaged. In the event of damage in transit, notify the carrier and file a Proof of Loss Claim immediately.
Shortages
Inspect the complete shipment carefully against the itemized packing list. Make sure that all items are present and in good condition. In the event of any shortage, notify the distributor from whom you pur­chased the saw and the carrier who made delivery.
Utility Hook-Up
The use of a qualified electrician is always recom­mended when connecting the saw to the main power supply. Electrical codes differ from area to area and it is the customers responsibility to ensure that his saw complies with applicable codes. Your Wellsaw is pre­wired at the factory for a specified voltage. Always check the motor and electrical panel to ensure that they are both wired to correspond to your electrical power supply.
3. Remove Adjusting Keys and Wrenches See that keys and wrenches are removed from the saw before operating it.
4. Keep Working Areas Clean Clutter invites accidents
5. Avoid Dangerous Environment
Do not use power tools in damp or wet locations. Keep work areas well illuminated.
6. Keep Children Away
Keep all visitors a safe distance from work areas.
7. Use The Right Tools
Do not force a tool or attachment to do a job or operate at a speed it was not designed for.
8. Wear Proper Apparel
Avoid all loose clothing or jewelry which may get caught in moving parts.
9. Use Safety Glasses
Also use a face or dust mask if the cutting operation being performed requires it.
10. Secure Work
Use proper clamps or the vise to hold work before cutting.
11. Do Not
Keep your footing and balance at all times. Clean up all liquids spilled in work area.
12. Maintain Tools in Top Condition
Keep tools sharp and clean for best and safest performance. Follow instructions for lubrication, maintenance and changing accessories
Over
Reach
Safety Rules
1. Know Your Saw
Read this manual carefully. Learn your saws' applica­tion and limitations as well as the specific potential hazards peculiar to this machine.
13. Disconnect Power
Before servicing and when changing accessories such as blades, disconnect the power supply.
14. Use Recommended Accessories
Consult this Manual. The use of improper accessories may be dangerous and can damage the saw.
3
Notes on Sawing
Trouble Shooting
It is widely recognized that a proficient operator is a key to optimum bandsawing. He makes certain the machine is properly maintained and adjusted for de­pendable operation. He carefully sets up each cutting job to prevent damage to the machine and obtain the best performance from the equipment.
Blade dealers can be very helpful in selecting the grade and proper tooth blade for each sawing job. All blades should be straight, have sharp teeth with uni­form set, and be "broken in" at a reduced feed rate to obtain good cutting performance and blade life.
Every cutting situation has special characteristics requiring some experimentation to determine which blade, speed and feed rate will achieve the most satis­factory result. Cutting charts indicate a good starting point, but must be modified by direct experience if optimum performance is desired. (See page 24)
Here are some helpful pointers for adjusting speed and feed for good cutting performance.
1. Make sure the saw is cutting a good chip from the workpiece.
2. Watch for blue chips or excessive "smoke" indicating heat in the cut which could damage the blade or work-harden the material being cut.
3. Watch for excessive vibration or chatter marks on the cut-off piece indicating possible damage to saw teeth by "hammering".
4. Check the cut-off piece for flatness. A dull blade or excessive feed will produce a "belly" in the cut.
5. Inspect the blade for worn, rounded or shiny cutting edges. Avoid force cutting which will allow chips to "weld" to saw teeth and eventually cause the teeth to be stripped off the blade.
6. When experimenting, start with a slow speed and feed rate. Gradually increase blade speed and then feed pressure by small amounts until adverse effects are noted. You can then set the speed and feed at a reasonable level for continuous cutting. Remember that blade speed and feed pressure must be balanced to keep cutting a good chip.
Premature Dulling of Blade Teeth
1. Feed rate too high or low. Check recommendation.
2. Blade speed too slow or too fast.
3. Faulty material; heavy scale, hard spots, etc.
4. Verify material analysis.
5. If coolant flow is not covering saw teeth, increase coolant flow rate.
6. If saw is vibrating in cut, reduce blade speed or increase feed rate.
7. Chipped or broken teeth may be lodged in cut.
8. "Chip welding" caused by improper feed and speed.
9. Incorrect coolant mixture.
10. Incorrect blade selection.
11. Improper break-in of ne w blade. New blades should be run initially with reduced feed pressure for approximately 50 to 100 square inches of cutting.
12. Saw blade teeth may be hitting blade guides. Check for proper blade size and guide adjustment.
Saw Blade Vibration
1. Incorrect blade speed fo r materi al being cut.
2. Blad e tension insu fficient.
3. Back-u p be aring may be worn.
4. Incorrect choice of saw tooth pitch.
5. In correct coolan t mixture.
6. Incorrect feed setting. Increase feed pressure.
7. Workpiece not firmly clamped in vice.
8. Worn or improperly adjusted saw guides. Check and make necessary adjustments or repairs.
Blade Teeth Chipping or Ripping Out
1. Blade pitch too coarse. Use a fine pitch saw blade on thin work sections.
2. Improper break-in of new blade. Do not start a new blade in an old cut.
3. Work piece not held firmly enough. Clamp work securely.
4. Introduce cooling if it is not being used.
5. Faulty material; scale or hard spots.
6. Blade gullets may be loaded. Use higher viscosity lubricant or coolant.
7. Blade speed and feed may need adjustment.
4
Premature Blade Breakage
1. Poor weld in blade.
2. Feed rate set too high. Reduce it.
3. Excessive blade speed. Adjust it.
4. Blade guides set too tight or misaligned.
5. Blade tension set too high.
6. Blade running against flange on wheels. Adjust wheel pitch.
Blade Squeal
1. Feed rate too light for blade speed. Increase feed rate and/or reduce blade speed.
Blade Slips Off Blade Wheels
1. Blade not tensioned correctly.
2. Wheel pitch not set properly.
3. Guides set too tight.
Gullets of Blade Teeth Loading
1. Blade pitch too fine. Review blad e selec tio n.
2. Incorrect blade speed. Consult cutting chart.
3. If not using coolant, apply it.
Chips Welding to B lade T eet h
1. Cutting rate too high.
2. Chip brush may be out of adjustment.
3. Check coolant and application.
Blade Becoming Scored
1. Saw guides may be worn. Check and replace if necessary.
2. Too much pressure on saw guides. Adjust.
3. Guides may be out of alignment.
Blade Making Belly-Shaped Cut
1. Blade tension too light. Increase it.
2. Saw guides too far from work piece.
3. Blade pitch too fine. Use larger pitch and positive rake tooth form.
4. Feed force too heavy. Decrease it.
3. Blade guides too far apart. Always set blade guides as close to work piece as possible.
4. Blade may be dull. Check and replace if necessary.
5. Feed pressure too high. Reduce it.
6. Blade guides loose, worn or out of alignment.
7. Too many teeth-per-inch. Blade not cutting freely.
8.
Chip brush not cleaning teeth properly.
9. Dirty coolant.
10. Check for loose nuts, bolts, etc.
Rough Cut I Poor Finish
1. Excessive feed rate. See recommendations.
2. Blade too coarse. Use finer blade pitch.
3. Inadequate cutting fluid. Change.
Blade Stalls In work.
1. Insufficient blade tension.
2. Excessive feed pressure.
3. Blade tooth spacing too coarse.
4. Motor worn or defective.
5. Guides too tight against blade.
Blade Does Not Track Properly
1. Set wheel pitch so that blade runs to wheel flange but not against it.
2. Is blade tension proper?
3. Is back of blade riding against back-up bearing? If not, adjust guides.
Motor Overheating
1. Check for correct voltage supply. Check voltage at motor. Check magnetic starter heaters.
2. Check for loose electrical connections.
3. Does motor amp reading correspond to rating on motor specification tag?
4. Is internal motor wiring correct?
5. Is drive belt over-tightened?
Inaccurate Cut-Off
1. Is conveyor or stock stand level with saw bed?
2. Insufficient blade tension.
5
Operating Instructions.
Speed Selection
Cutting Tips
1. For long er bla de life, star t ea c h cut careful ly .
2. For new blade, reduce feed pressure on first two cuts or about 100 square inches.
3. Keep blade guides as close to the vise jaws as possible.
4. Make sure all four legs of the saw are in solid contact with the floor.
Automatic Stop
When the blade has completed a cut through the material, the saw frame activates a limit switch which shuts the motor off.
When changing a blade or doing any other mainte­nance or repair, be sure the automatic stop is engaged or
disconnect the main power supply.
It is necessary to raise the saw frame clear of this limit switch actuator before the saw can be started.
Dash Pot
Machines are equipped with a dash pot [frame check] for the purpose of stabilizing downward travel of the saw frame, thereby protecting the saw blade from damage. The action of the dash pot is hydraulic and controlled by fluid being passed through an orifice in the piston on the downward stroke.
Fill within 1" of the top of the bottom cylinder with Mobil Velocite Oil #6 or equivalent.
Frame Weight Adjustment
The position of the collar in relation to the spring on the dash pot acts as the frame weight adjustment.
The proper frame weight is approximately 10 lbs. and is obtained by positioning the top of the collar 4" down from the top edge of the upper cylinder. For less frame weight, loosen the collar and move it down toward the tension spring. Reverse this action for more frame weight.
Too much frame weight will cause the blade to make crooked cuts!
Saws are equipped with step pulleys providing blade speeds of 50, 90, 160 and 250 feet-per-minute. High speeds are suggested for cutting thin-wall tubing, channels, aluminum, brass or any metal that will not burn blade teeth. Use medium speed for general cut­ting such as cold rolled, machine steels, heavy chan­nels, etc. Run at low speed for cutting nickel steels or any metal requiring a slow speed on a lathe. When cutting brass, use a blade that has not been used on other metals and apply beeswax to the teeth. See page
22 for suggested Blade Speed combinations.
Belt
Pivoted mounting provides for quick belt change. With the belt in pulley grooves for the desire speed, swing motor to put proper tension in the belt. Tighten thumb screw to hold motor in proper operating position.
Fixed Vise Jaw
The two pins in the fixed vise jaw should be kept in place the ensure square cuts. For cutting angles, the pins must be removed to the desired position and tightened with clamp bolts. The vise pins allow you to quickly relocate the fixed vise jaw for approximate 90
0
cutting. For final, accurate cutting, the fixed vise jaw should be squared with the blade. [See Blade Guide Alignment.]
Sliding Vise Jaw
The sliding vise jaw is fitted with a lift plate and ratchet dog for quick action. A hand wheel tightens the vise on the workpiece. Excessive pressure is not needed
to hold the workpiece securely!
Maximum Capacity
To obtain maximum vise capacity, remove vise jaw pins and move fixed vise toward motor end to the last two holes in the bed. Make sure the stock in the vise will not strike the ratchet arm.
Feeding Pressure
Feed pressure is varied by moving the weight on the top side of the frame. Blade pressure increases as the weight is moved toward the open end of the saw. Excessive pressure may cause a run-out of the blade. [See page 22 for recommendations.]
6
Placing Blade on Saw
1. Raise saw frame.
2. Open Idle and Drive Wheel guards.
3. Loosen Rite Tension take-up screw and remove old blade. In the event of a broken blade, be sure Rite Tension is open by turning take-up screw counter­clockwise at least six [6] turns.
4. Uncoil new blade. Make certain the blade teeth point in the direction of blade travel which is toward the motor. If not, turn blade inside out to have the proper tooth direction.
5. Place new blade on the guides and the band wheels.
6. Grasp blade on frame side and push it toward guide bracket beam to hold it in position while turning the Rite Tension take-up screw.
7. Tighten blade to proper tension. Blade is properly tensioned when the take-up screw is tightened until the mechanism bottoms out.
Maintenance Instructions
adjustment. If you then find the saw blade is not square with the stationary vise jaw, the blade must be adjusted.
2. This adjustment is. made with the top two Allen screws on the roller adjusting block of the guide arm. Looking at the drawing, you will see these adjusting screws labeled "A" and "B".
3. To make a vertical adjustment of the saw blade, so that the cut is square from top to bottom, the blade must be set so that it is perpendicular to the bed. In making this adjustment, clean the saw bed first.
4. Set the rule of the combination square on the saw bed with the end of the rule butted against the blade above the set of the saw teeth. Use a 1-1/2 thousandths (.0015") shim and slide it along the top and the bottom edge of the rule where it meets the saw blade. If the shim slides between the blade and the rule at either the top or bottom, the roller supports must be adjusted by using the bottom Allen screws marked "C" and "D" to obtain the correct 90° angle.
Adjust the side roller guides with the eccentric axle until both rollers contact blade. When this adjustment has been made, the roller should be adjusted so that the PATH OF THE BLADE IS STRAIGHT and the blade is not forced to curve around the rollers. The top roller guide should be in contact with the top of the blade at all times. When running idle, this contact pressure should be very light
Blade Guide Alignment
To properly align the saw blade for a straight and accurate cut, do the following.
1. Check the stationary vise jaw. Make sure it is square. To do this, place a combination square against the vise jaw slot in the saw bed. Slide the square toward the stationary vise jaw. Make the necessary
Wheel Pitch Adjustment
If the saw blade runs too low or off the wheels, or runs too high and rubs the wheel flange, a wheel pitch adjustment must be made. Loosen the blade before making the following adjustments.
Idler Wheel Blade running too low or off the wheel. Adjust the Idler
Wheel Block. Loosen one-half [112] turn the two cap screws in the block closest to the take-up screw end. Tighten by one-half turn [112] the two cap screws in the opposite end of the block. Repeat if more adjustment is necessary.
Blade running too high and running against the Idler Wheel Flange. The blade can become distorted, its top edge rolled over and the wheel flange will wear exces­sively. To correct this, loosen by one-half [112] turn the two cap screws opposite the take-up screw on the wheel block. Tighten the two cap screws closest to the
7
take-Up screw end. Repeat if necessary.
Drive Wheel:
Blade running too low or off the drive wheel. Loosen the two cap screws closest to the motor end of the wheel plate by one-half [1/2] turn. Tighten the two hollow-head screws at the same end by one-half [1/2] turn. Repeat if more adjustment is necessary.
Preventive Maintenance
Caution:
emergency STOP button before performing any maintenance. DO NOT service the Dash Pot unless the frame is in the Down position or resting on a mechanical stop, such as a block of wood.
Daily
Disconnect the electrical supply and press
Make certain that all screws are tight after adjustments have been made.
Gear Box Repair
1. Remove gear box from saw.
2. Remove four machine screws holding gear box together.
3. Separate gear box by carefully prying castings apart at a location near pulley shaft. Caution: Do not
use excessive force!
4. Once the gear box is open, the internal parts may be inspected for wear.
5. Liquid plastic gasket is used to seal the gear case. Use Loctite No. 51580 or equivalent.
Blade Brushes
Brushes should be cleaned frequently in kerosene and reversed to take advantage of both rows of bristles. For efficient cutting, replace worn blade brushes. In replacing brushes, be sure bristles are bent in the direction the blade travels.
1. Keep the saw clean and free of chips.
2. Maintain the coolant level and keep the coolant tank and filter clean of chip accumulation or sludge.
Monthly
1. Check, adjust and replace blade brush as needed.
2. Lubricate drive gears.
3. Inspect guides and bearings.
4. Inspect drive belt.
5. Clean coolant tank and filter as needed.
Annually
1. Check hydraulic oil level.
2. Replace guide rollers.
3. Inspect gear box. Lubricate as needed.
Lubrication
Correct and adequate lubrication is a very important factor in determining the life and service of your Wellsaw. It is essential that all dust, dirt, chips, etc. be thoroughly removed before lubricating the saw. The following lubrication recommendations cover usual saw applications. Heavy use and hostile environments may indicate more frequent lubrication for best saw performance.
Switch
A "Stop-Start" switch across the line controls the motor. A heater coil breaks the circuit if an overload occurs. Allow time for the coil to cool before restarting the saw. An automatic shut-off operates when the saw frame contacts a limit switch. Low voltage protection is provided by the magnetic starter. A separate switch controls the automatic coolant system.
Vise Screw, Ring Gear, Drive Pinion
1. Inspect monthly.
2. Use anti-seize on vise screw.
3. Use Extreme Pressure Open Gear Lube sparingly on Ring Gear and Drive Pinion.
Gear Case
1. Inspect after 3 years (6,000 hours).
2. Use Mobilgrease XHP 220 or equivalent.
3. Viscosity: Heavy grease, drop point 550 EF.
4. Military Specification: None.
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