Watts FMRO5GP-115V User Manual

Installation Instructions

Residential Reverse Osmosis

Drinking Water System

Tools

The following tools may be necessary, depending
on each particular installation:

Your Reverse Osmosis System has been tested to
ensure it will operate correctly. The following

periodic maintenance is recommended so your
system will provide years of trouble-free service:

Replacement parts Replacement

Pre-filters (sediment) Every 6 mos.
Pre-filter (activated carbon) Every 6 mos.

R/O membrane Every 2-3 years
Post filter (carbon) Every 6 mos.

Components

The following components make up your Reverse
Osmosis Drinking Water System:

Pre-filter (sediment) removes larger particles such
as sand, silt, rust and scale.

Pre-filter (activated carbon) removes chlorine in the
feed water to protect the reverse osmosis

membrane.
Reverse Osmosis Membrane reduces dissolved

minerals, metals and salts. During the process,
harmful compounds are separated by the

membrane and the reject water goes to waste
(drain).

An activated carbon post-filter is provided for a
final “polish” and to remove foul tastes, odors and to

provide great tasting drinking water.
Filter housings and R/O module hold pre-filters

and membranes. A bracket is provided so they
may be mounted, typically below sink.

Storage tank holds filtered water, readyfor use.
Automatic shut-off valve senses when the

storage tank is full and closes the water supply to
conserve water.

The dedicated faucet is used to dispense RO
produced water when needed.

Feed water saddle valve is connected to the cold
water line to supply water to the R/O system.

 3/8” variable speed electric drill; 1/8” &1/2” bits
 1-1/4” porcelain hole cutter (if hole for second

faucet is not provided).

 Center punch and hammer
 1-1/4” wood bit
 Concrete drill bits
 Phillips head and flat blade screwdrivers

 Adjustable wrench
 Crescent wrench
 Teflon tape
 Plastic tube cutter
 Air pressure gauge (low pressure)
 Air pump (hand)

System location

Your R/O system may be installed under a sink, in a
basement or other location, depending on available

space. Do not install unit where temperatures fall
below freezing; otherwise, damage will result.

Connection to an icemaker should also be
considered for optimum performance.

Guidelines for component placement are as follows:
Faucet should be placed near the sink where

drinking / cooking water is normally required. A 2”
flat surface is required to mount the faucet if an

existing hole for a second faucet is not available.
The thickness of the mounting thickness should not

exceed 1-1/4”.
Storage tank may be placed where it is convenient,

within ten feet of the faucet. Under the sink or in a
nearby cabinet are excellent choices. If tank is

located further than ten feet from the faucet, use ½”
tubing to reduce pressure drop. Full tanks may

weight more than thirty pounds, so a sturdy shelf is
required.

R/O unit may be mounted on either side of the sink,
in a cabinet or heated basement, with nearby

access to a potable, cold water line.
Feed water connection is accomplished with a

self-piercing feed water saddle valve. Locate this
assembly as close to the R/O unit as possible.

Connect to a potable, cold water supply line only.

Waste water saddle valve is connected to the
drain to remove reject water from the R/O system.

Tubing supplies feed and reject water.
Fittings are used for necessary hose connections.

Note: Softened water is preferred since it will
extend the life of your R/O membrane.

Drain connection is accomplished using a waste
water saddle valve which is designed to fit around a

standard 1-1/2” OD drain pipe. The drain saddle
valve should always be installed above (before) the

tap and on the vertical or horizontal tailpiece.

Do not install the drain saddle valve near a garbage
disposal; otherwise, plugging of the waste water

line may occur. If discharging into a utility sink or
standpipe, an air gap must be provided. (Air gaps

must be 1” or greater above the floor rim.)

2

Porcelain, Enamel, Ceramic on Metal or Cast Iron:

Precautions must be taken to penetrate the
porcelain through to the metal base and prevent it

from chipping or scratching.

Note: Plumbing codes may require the use air
gaps. Please check with your local municipality.

Do not connect the R/O system drain line to the
dishwasher drain line due to the fact back

pressures my cause the air gap to overflow.

Site reparation

Installing dealers may want to speak with
customers in advance and ask them to clean under

the sink to save time. If a basement installation is
advisable, check area to determine if extra fittings

or hosing are required. Upon arrival, it is a good
idea to check the condition of all plumbing for

potential leaks and advise customer so there will be
no misunderstandings in the event leaks occur.

Unit preparation

Open shipping carton, remove components and
check that all parts are present. Check empty

storage tank to be sure air pressure is
approximately 7 psi. Adjust if necessary.

Note: Hand tighten all fitting connections to be sure they
are tight.

Tools required:

 Variable speed drill
 Relton porcelain cutter tool set

(7/8" or alternative size, 9/16")

 Plumber's putty

Procedures:

1. Mark the center for the 7/8” hole.

2. Form shallow putty around hole area and fill
with enough water to lubricate carbide drill bit.

3. Carefully drill pilot hole through all layers. (Use
light pressure and slow speed.)

4. Insert pilot tip of spring-loaded porcelain cutter
into pilot hole.

5. Drill porcelain / enamel using spring loaded
porcelain cutter, making certain a complete ring

has been cut through the porcelain / enamnel to
the metal base.

6. Cut away the inner porcelain / enamel disc
down to the base metal. Make certain the

cutter does not touch outer rim of the cut
porcelain / enamel. Continue witht his bit to cut

through metal until sink has been completely
penetrated.

Note: Always use sharpened porcelain cutter to
eliminate chips and cracks.

Installation steps

All plumbing must be completed in accordance with
state and local plumbing codes. Some

municipalities may require installation by a licensed
plumber. Check local authority prior to installation.

1. Faucet installation

If the sink has a sprayer it may be disconnected for
faucet installation. (Installing dealers should

discuss this with customers.) A pipe cap or plug will
be necessary to seal the sprayer connection.

To make the faucet mounting hole (if sprayer or
second hole is not used), check below to make sure

the drill does not interfere with anything below.
Center punch a small indent at the desired faucet

location. (2” flat surface is required, not exceeding
1-1/4” in thickness.) Drill the required pilot hole for

the chassis punch and tighten nut to cut the desired
hole size. Clean up sharp edges.

The faucet should be positioned so it empties into
the sink and the spout swivels freely for

convenience. If sink has a hole that can
accommodate the RO faucet, no drilling is required.

Proceed with mounting the faucet.

Faucet installation without air gap

Installation procedures for stainless steel sinks

Recommended tools:

 Center punch
 Variable speed drill
 High speed drill bits
 Greenlee chassis punch 7/8" (or 9/16" for

non air gap faucets)

 Protective gloves & eye protectors