Radio Required: 4Ch or More Micro w/3 Micro Servos
●
ESC Required: 30 Amp Micro
●
Battery Required: 7 Cell CP1300SCR
IMPORTANT The Wattage Ultimate Bipe EP is not intended for inexperienced pilots. It is in no way a trainer. If you
are not comfortable flying aerobatic sport aircraft, we strongly suggest returning the Ultimate Bipe EP (brand new, in
the box with all original packaging) to the place of purchase.
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This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only
in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your
airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control
system and any other components purchased separately.
FOR YOUR INFORMATION
To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and
during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified
instructors. If there is no hobby shop in your area, we recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to
help you locate a flying field near you.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie IN 47302-9252
(800) 435-9262
www.modelaircraft.org
OUR GUARANTEE
Wattage guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component
parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Wattage's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
In that Wattage has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from
the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
2
Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing the new Wattage Ultimate Bipe EP. Before completing the final assembly of your new
airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure your success
the first time around!
Wattage Ultimate Bipe EP Special Features:
●
Compact Design for Exciting Small-Field Flying
●
One-piece built-up wings, Plywood Outer Wing Struts and Plywood Center Cabane Strut
●
Entire Airframe is Hand-Built from Quality Balsa & Plywood
●
Covered with Real Iron-On Covering Material
●
Preinstalled Cobalt 400 Direct Drive Motor for More Power
●
Prepainted Cowling, Wheel Pants & Tinted Canopy
●
Generous Hardware and Custom Decal Set Included - Including Durable Aluminum Main Gear
●
Fast & Easy Assembly - Over 40 High Resolution Digital Photos & Drawings Guide You
This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new airplane in the
least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn
tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them
before beginning assembly.
●
Please read through each step before beginning
assembly. You should find the layout very complete
and straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through
assembly without any of the headaches and hassles
that you might expect.
●
Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put
the small parts in after you open the accessory bags.
●
We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but
take your time. This will ensure you build a straight,
strong and great flying airplane.
●
There are check boxes next to each step. After
you complete a step, check off the box. This will help
prevent you from losing your place.
●
Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft
cloth, both to protect the table and to protect the parts.
●
If you come across this symbol ☞, it means that
this is an important point or an assembly hint.
Visit Our Website
http://globalservices.globalhobby.com
If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please
To serve your needs better, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us. Your email
address will be added to our Customer Service Database so you will automatically receive free updates and tech
notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if applicable) and other important
information about your product as it becomes available.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS
Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,
trade, or rent your personal information to others . Your privacy is important to us.
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3
SECTION 1: OUR RECOMMENDATIONS
This section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for
your new Ultimate Bipe EP. Please read through this entire section very carefully. We have provided you with
tips and recommendations that, if followed, will result in a great flying airplane. Failure to follow our
recommendations may result in a poor flying airplane.
IMPORTANT When choosing accessories for your Ultimate Bipe EP, such as servos, ESC, receiver and other
related accessories, it's very important to take the weight of these items into consideration. Remember, the lighter the
overall weight of the finished airplane, the better the airplane will fly.
What Servos Do I Use?
The servos you use should be the lightest available, yet still have an adequate amount of torque. We suggest using servos
that weigh no more than 0.34 ounces and have a torque rating of no less than 11 ounces per square inch. Cirrus CS-6.2
servos, Cirrus CS-09 servos or Hitec HS-55 servos would be a perfect choice.
What Receiver Do I Use?
The receiver should be as light as possible, preferably 1/2oz. or less. Most four-channel micro receivers would be a good
choice. If you plan on using the Hitec 555 Micro receiver, we suggest removing the case to reduce the receiver's overall
weight. If you do remove the case from your receiver we strongly suggest wrapping the receiver with heat-shrink material
to protect the internal components.
Important Note: We don't suggest using short-range receivers like the Hitec Feather or Cirrus MRX-4. The range
provided by these receivers will not be long enough for you to keep control of the airplane.
What Electronic Speed Control Do I Use?
The ESC you choose should be capable of handling no less than 30 amps continuous current. Again, lighter is better. Your
ESC should weigh no more than 1 ounce including the wiring and switch.
Important Note: To minimize current loss, we suggest cutting off the bullet connectors from the Cobalt 400 motor
and your ESC, and soldering the motor wires directly to the ESC motor wires.
What Flight Battery Do I Use?
Through much testing with this power system and airframe combination, we have found several different flight battery
packs that work well and will provide you with good overall performance. We recommend using either a Sanyo 7 cell
800AR-SCR flight pack or a Sanyo 7cell CP1300SCR flight pack. The CP1300SCR pack is ideal because it will provide
much more runtime without any significant weight penalty. We do not suggest using NiMH battery packs. At this time they
cannot handle the current draw of this power system.
Important Note: We strongly suggest replacing the stock Tamiya connector that is likely preinstalled on your ESC
and flight battery with a more efficient Dean's Ultra-Plug battery connector. The Tamiya connector is not able to
withstand the current draw of the high-power cobalt 400 motor.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT THE COBALT 400 POWER SYSTEM
The airplane includes a 7 x 4 propeller, that when used with a 7 cell flight battery results in a static amp draw of
approximately 25 amps. Using a larger propeller and/or more cells will result in an amp draw of over 30 amps, which
will cause failure of the power system. This is not recommended; however, the airplane has been designed so that an
in-line gear box can easily be added. In-line gear boxes designed for 480 size motors with 1/8" shafts can be used. In
conjunction with a 10 or 11 inch propeller (depending on the gear ratio used) and a 7 - 8 cell CP1300SCR Sanyo flight
battery, this combination will result in better performance and longer flight times.
4
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OUR RECOMMENDATIONS, CONTINUED....
Here's a List of What We Used to Finish Our Ultimate Bipe EP:
QTY. 1 759118Hitec 555 Micro Receiver
Hitec Dual Conversion FM RX Crystal
QTY. 3 444045Cirrus CS-09 Micro Servos
QTY. 1 128486Wattage IC-30A Micro ESC
Note: If you're wondering why we've recommended
using a Dean's Ultra-Plug connector, please read the
important note on page # 4 under "What Flight Battery
Do I Use?" A high-quality battery connector is just as
important as a good ESC and flight battery.
QTY. 1 1285777 Cell CP1300SCR NiCD Flight Battery
QTY. 1 130108Wattage PF-12 AC/DC Park Flyer Charger
QTY. 1 625085Dean's Ultra-Plug Battery Connector Set
QTY. 1 869020Dubro Double-Sided Tape
IMPORTANT The Cirrus servos and Wattage ESC use a universal connector that is compatible with all name-brand radio control
systems. The part number listed for the Hitec 555 micro receiver is compatible with Hitec radio control systems only. This receiver
is also available for JR, Futaba and Airtronics radio control systems.
When you purchase the Hitec 555 micro receiver, you must also purchase a Hitec brand crystal compatible with the receiver. The
crystal must also be on the same frequency as your transmitter. Note that the Hitec 555 micro receiver uses a dual conversion
FM Hitec crystal.
SECTION 2: TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
The tools and supplies listed below will be necessary to finish the assembly of your Ultimate Bipe EP. We suggest having
these items onhand before beginning assembly.
❑Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560
❑Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500
❑Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510
❑Kwik Bond C/A Debonder # 887545
❑# 1 & # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
❑7/64" Hex Wrench
❑Magnum Z-Bend Pliers # 237473
❑Wire Cutters
❑Needle Nose Pliers
❑Adjustable Wrench
❑Excel Modeling Knife # 692801
❑Scissors
❑Electric or Hand Drill
❑Assorted Drill Bits
❑Ernst Airplane Stand # 223977
*
These items are necessary to solder the motor wires on the motor to the motor wires on your ESC, and to solder the new
high-quality Dean's Ultra-Plug connector to your ESC and your flight battery.
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5
SECTION 3: KIT CONTENTS
We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin
assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly
and it will also help you become familiar with each part.
If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact us at the address below:
We stock a complete line of replacement parts for your Wattage Ultimate Bipe EP.
☞
6
Please refer to page # 29 for more details and a replacement parts list.
To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = mm
To convert millimeters into inches: Millimeters / 25.4 = in
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SECTION 4: A NOTE ABOUT COVERING
The covering material used on the Wattage Ultimate Bipe EP is real iron-on, heat-shrink covering material, not cheap
"shelf paper." Because of this, it is possible with heat and humidity changes that the covering on your airplane may
wrinkle or sag. This trait is inherent in all types of heat-shrink material. To remove any wrinkles that might be visible
you will need to purchase, or borrow from a fellow modeler, a heat iron. If you need to purchase one, the Global Heat
Sealing Iron # 360900 is recommended.
Follow this simple procedure to remove the wrinkles:
❑Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium-high temperature setting. Allow the iron to heat up for approximately
5 - 7 minutes.
❑After the iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the iron to the wrinkled section of the covering. Move the iron
slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering tightens and the wrinkles disappear. You will notice that the color of the
covering will darken when it is heated. When the covering cools back down, it will return to its normal color.
If the color layer smears from any of the seams the temperature of the iron is too hot. Turn the temperature dial down
☞
and wait about 5 minutes for the iron to adjust to the lower temperature. You can remove any excess color streaks using
a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of Acetone.
WARNING We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in
direct sunlight) for any length of time. The extreme heat could cause the covering material to wrinkle and possibly
damage the fragile components of the radio system, ESC or batteries.
SECTION 5: BECOMING FAMILIAR WITH YOUR COBALT 400 MOTOR
Your Wattage Ultimate Bipe EP is powered by the Wattage Super Cobalt 400 Direct Drive motor. This motor is a
high-quality alternative to lower power, closed end-bell motors, and more expensive specialty motors. The Super Cobalt
400 Direct Drive motor features a 3.2mm (1/8") shaft and a bolt pattern that can match either 05 or 400 size mounting
dimensions. And at 3.7 ounces, this motor is light for its enormous power potential.
Please take a moment to familiarize yourself with the Wattage Super Cobalt 400 Direct Drive motor:
Nominal Voltage: 7V
Operating Voltage: 6V - 10V
No-Load Motor Speed: 19,500 RPM
RPM Per Volt: 2,395 RPM
Max Efficiency: 75%
Max Efficiency Current: 18A
Important Note: Continuous amps should not exceed more than 30 amps, so if you use propellers larger
than 7 x 4, you will need to reduce voltage accordingly.
Max Loading: 31A/20s
Stall Current: 55A
Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm (1/8")
Weight: 3.7 Ounces
Propeller Range: 5 x 5 to 8 x 6
The motor break-in procedure begins at the top of the next page. Do not omit this
section. It is very important to break in the motor before flight.
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7
SECTION 6: BREAKING IN THE SUPER COBALT 400 MOTOR
Taking time to break in the motor now will result in increased motor performance and longevity. You can either leave
the motor secured to the fuselage during the break-in process or you can remove the motor and secure it to a test
stand. If you leave the motor in the fuselage, make sure to hold the fuselage securely during the break-in process.
❑Remove the cowling and set it and the four wood screws aside for now.
If you leave the motor on the fuselage during the break-in process, it's very important to remove the cowling so that the
☞
motor receives adequate cooling.
❑Install a smaller propeller onto the motor than the one included with the airplane. We suggest using a 5 x 5 or a 6 x 5
propeller to begin the break-in procedure. We don't suggest using the 7 x 4 propeller included for the break-in procedure
because it will put too much load on the motor before it's fully broken in.
❑To start the break-in procedure, attach the motor wires directly to a fully charged 4 cell battery pack. A receiver battery
pack works great for this. Run the motor in 5 minute intervals for a total of 15 minutes runtime. This means run the motor
for 5 minutes, unplug the battery pack, let the motor cool for 5 minutes, and repeat this three times for a total of 15 minutes
runtime. This technique will begin to seat the motor brushes and prevent the motor from overheating.
❑After you've completed the initial 15 minute break-in procedure, connect the motor to your ESC and the flight battery
you plan on using to fly the airplane. Run the motor in 1 to 2 minute intervals of varying throttle settings with increasingly
larger propellers until you reach the 7 x 4 propeller included with the airplane. During this process, let the motor cool
between runs and do not run the motor at full power for more than 15 seconds at a time.
IMPORTANT To prevent current loss, we strongly suggest soldering the motor wires directly to the ESC motor wires.
We also suggest using a Dean's Ultra-Plug battery connector in place of the stock Tamiya connector likely preinstalled
on your flight battery and ESC.
After breaking in your motor, please read the important information below
about motor cooling and maintenance. Failure to follow these suggestions
can result in poor motor performance.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT MOTOR COOLING
The Super Cobalt 400 Direct Drive motor must have airflow through and over the motor to prevent overheating. It's
important that the air-exit holes be larger than the air-intake holes. We also strongly suggest that the flight battery and
ESC receive maximum cooling, too. This will allow your ESC and flight battery to work at maximum efficiency.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT MOTOR MAINTENANCE
We do not recommend using spray cleaners or liquid solvents to clean the motor. Any dust and debris should be
removed using compressed air, either from an air-compressor or from a can.
Regularly check the motor brushes and springs. If they look worn, replace them immediately. Worn motor brushes will
cause short motor life and poor performance.
The part number for the replacement brushes and springs set is 131475.
8
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❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A
❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ Electric Drill
❑ 1/16" Drill Bit
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand
❑ Ruler
❑Center each hinge within its precut slot in both ailerons.
If you can't push the hinge in halfway, carefully cut the slot
deeper using a modeling knife.
Each aileron is hinged using three hinges and the precut
☞
slot in each hinge should be perpendicular to the leading edge
of the ailerons.
❑Carefully glue each hinge into place using 5-6 drops of
thin C/A on each side of the hinge. Do not use thick C/A or
epoxy. Use only thin C/A for proper adhesion.
If any C/A gets onto the aileron, it can be removed promptly using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of
☞
C/A Debonder.
❑Cut out a 2" square piece of waxed paper and slide it
between the torque rod and the trailing edge of the wing on
one wing half.
The waxed paper will prevent epoxy from gluing the torque
☞
rod to the trailing edge.
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper, lightly sand the end of the aileron torque rod to roughen the surface. Doing this will allow the
epoxy to stick to the metal more securely.
❑Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the end of the aileron torque rod and pack more into the
predrilled hole and the precut groove in the leading edge of the aileron.
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9
❑Slide the aileron and its hinges into the hinge slots in the trailing edge of the wing, making sure that the torque rod is
firmly seated in the leading edge of the aileron. Adjust the aileron so that the tip of the aileron is even with the wing tip.
❑While holding the aileron tightly against the wing, pivot
the aileron down about 45º and apply 5-6 drops of thin C/A to
the exposed area of each hinge. Turn the wing over and
repeat for the other side of the hinges.
Remove any C/A that may run down the hinge line using
☞
C/A Debonder.
❑After the C/A has dried completely - about 15 minutes -
pivot the aileron up and down to free up the hinges.
IMPORTANT After the C/A and epoxy have fully cured, gently grasp the aileron and pull on it like you are trying to pull
out the hinges. The hinges should hold securely. If one or more hinges feels loose, apply more thin C/A to the hinge(s)
and allow it to completely cure.
❑Repeat the previous procedures to install the second aileron.
Step 2: Hinging the Elevator
❑Hinge the elevator using the same technique as hinging the ailerons. The elevator is hinged using a total of
four hinges - two per side. Remember, after allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the elevator to check the integrity
of the hinges.
Step 3: Installing the Tail Wheel Wire
❑Using a ruler and a pencil, measure up 9/16" from the bottom of the rudder (at the leading edge) and draw a mark.
❑Using a drill with a 1/16" diameter drill bit, carefully drill a
3/4" deep hole into the leading edge of the rudder, at the mark
you drew.
IMPORTANT Make sure that you drill the hole perpendicular
to the leading edge and be careful not to drill out through the
side of the rudder.
10
❑Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a shallow groove in
the leading edge of the rudder from the base of the hole down
to the bottom of the rudder.
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❑Test-fit the tail wheel wire into the hole you drilled. When
properly aligned, the wire should rest within the groove and
the front edge of the wire should be flush with the leading
edge of the rudder.
❑When satisfied with the fit, remove the tail wheel wire
and use 220 grit sandpaper to roughen only the gluing
surfaces of the wire.
❑Glue the tail wheel wire into place using 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing
alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.
❑After the epoxy has set up, install the tail wheel using two nylon wheel retainers. Very carefully apply one drop of thin
C/A to the outer wheel retainer to secure it into place. This will prevent the wheel from coming off during flight.
IMPORTANT Do not hinge the rudder to the vertical stabilizer at this time. It will be hinged into place after installing
the vertical stabilizer. If you hinge the rudder now, it will be impossible to install the vertical stabilizer.
❑Carefully apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into the
threaded wing hold-down hole in the fuselage.
WARNING Allow the C/A to dry completely before proceeding
or you may inadvertently glue the wing to the fuselage.
❑Set the wing into the wing saddle and secure it into place
using the M4 x 20 machine screw.
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11
❑Using a modeling knife and a ruler, carefully cut out the
section of the fuselage directly behind the horizontal stabilizer
mounting slot.
IMPORTANT Save the piece that you cut out. It will be
glued back into place after mounting the stabilizer.
❑Slide the stabilizer into the mounting slot and temporarily
align it. The stabilizer should be pushed forward completely
and the cutout in the elevator should be centered from side to
side with the back of the fuselage.
❑When satisfied with the alignment, hold only the trailing
edge of the stabilizer in position using a T-Pin.
The front of the stabilizer should be able to pivot from
☞
side to side and the back should stay firmly in place and aligned.
❑Use a ruler to carefully measure the distance between
the tips of the stabilizer and the tips of the wing. Pivot the
front of the stabilizer until both of these measurements are
equal. When both measurements are equal, the stabilizer is
square to the wing.
B=B-1
❑When you are satisfied that the stabilizer is square to the wing, use a pencil to draw a couple of marks on each side of
the front of the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet, then use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the
stabilizer firmly in place and aligned.
❑With the stabilizer held firmly in place, look from the front
of the airplane at both the wing and the stabilizer. When
aligned properly, the stabilizer should be parallel to the wing.
If the stabilizer is out of alignment, remove it and use 220
☞
grit sandpaper with a sanding block to sand down the higher
side of the stabilizer mounting slot, then reinstall the stabilizer
and check the alignment once more. Repeat this procedure
C=C-1
❑After you're satisfied with the alignment, remove the stabilizer and mix a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy. Care-
fully apply a thin layer to the top and bottom of the gluing surface of the stabilizer and to the gluing surfaces of the stabilizer
mounting slot.
until you are satisfied with the alignment.
12
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❑Slide the stabilizer into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before the epoxy
sets up. Quickly remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the stabilizer in place until
the epoxy sets up.
❑After the epoxy sets up, use 5 minute epoxy to glue the
piece that you cut out previously back into the fuselage.
IMPORTANT Be careful not to get any glue on the elevator
joiner.
❑Pivot the elevator up and down several times to ensure it
moves freely.
Step 2: Installing the Vertical Stabilizer
❑Push the vertical stabilizer into the mounting slot in the
fuselage. When properly aligned, the stabilizer should be
pushed down firmly and the trailing edge should be even with
the back edge of the fuselage.
❑With the stabilizer in place and aligned, use a builder's
triangle to check and make sure that the vertical stabilizer is
aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer.
❑When satisfied with the alignment, remove the stabilizer and use a modeling knife to cut away and remove the
covering material from the top of the fuselage, where the stabilizer will be glued into place.
❑Mix a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to the gluing surfaces of the stabilizer and to the
mounting slot in the fuselage. Push the stabilizer into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once
more before the epoxy sets up. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the stabilizer
in place until the epoxy has set up.
Step 3: Hinging the Rudder
❑Hinge the rudder using the same technique as hinging the elevator. The rudder is hinged using a total of three
hinges - two in the stabilizer and one in the fuselage. Remember, after allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the rudder
to check the integrity of the hinges.
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13
SECTION 9: LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (1) Aluminum Main Gear Strut
❑ (2) Wheel Pants
❑ (2) Main Gear Wheels
❑ (2) M3 x 10 Wood Screws
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A
❑ # 1 & # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
Step 1: Installing the Main Gear Strut
❑Install the main gear strut to the bottom of the fuselage,
using two M3 x 10 wood screws.
IMPORTANT The front of the strut is angled and the back
of the strut is straight. Make sure that the back of the strut
(straight edge) is toward the back of the fuselage.
❑Slide one main gear wheel onto one M3 x 25 machine
screw.
❑Thread one M3 hex nut onto the screw and up against
the wheel, but don't tighten the nut. The wheel should be
able to spin freely.
❑Very carefully apply one or two drops of thin C/A to the
hex nut to lock it into place, being careful not to get any C/A
between the machine screw and the wheel. Allow the C/A to
fully cure before proceeding.
❑After the C/A has fully cured, thread a second M3 hex nut
onto the machine screw and gently tighten it against the first
hex nut.
❑Slide the axle assembly through the hole in the main gear
strut and secure it into place using one M3 lock nut.
IMPORTANT When tightening the lock nut, hold the
machine screw steady; don't hold the hex nuts.
14
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❑Slide one wheel pant over the wheel, making sure that
the precut slot in the wheel pant fits firmly over the two
hex nuts.
❑Push the wheel pant completely down into place and line
up the predrilled holes in the wheel pant with the predrilled
holes in the main gear strut.
❑Secure the wheel pant into place using two M2 x 5
wood screws.
❑Double-check that the wheel spins freely within the wheel pant, then repeat the previous procedures to install the
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑ # 0 & # 1 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers
❑ Wire Cutters
❑ Needle Nose Pliers
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ Electric or Hand Drill
❑ 5/64" Drill Bit
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand
❑ Ruler
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❑Carefully install your elevator servo into the servo tray,
making sure that the servo output shaft is toward the front of
the fuselage, as shown.
The holes in the servo tray are precut to fit most micro
☞
servos. Depending on the particular servo you're using, you
may need to enlarge the holes slightly.
IMPORTANT The elevator servo is installed in the left side
of the servo tray, as shown.
15
❑Slide one nylon pushrod snap-link onto one 17-3/4" long
pushrod wire, then make an L-Bend in the very end of the
wire, using needle nose pliers.
❑Using a pair of needle nose pliers, carefully bend a "V"
shape in the wire, as shown. The middle of the "V" should be
7/8" in front of the L-Bend and the "V" shape should be
toward the L-Bend, as shown.
IMPORTANT Make sure that when you bend the "V" shape
into the wire that the snap-link is between the L-Bend and the
"V" shape, as shown.
IMPORTANT The "V" shaped bend is necessary to allow center-trim adjustments to the pushrod wire. Do not omit
this procedure.
❑Insert the L-Bend into the outermost hole in one nylon
control horn, so that the longer portion of the pushrod wire is
toward the right side of the control horn, and hook the
snap-link over the end of the wire.
Positioning the longer portion of the wire on the right side
☞
of the control horn will prevent the pushrod from binding when
it is installed.
❑Carefully slide the plain end of the pushrod wire (with the control horn still attached) into the nylon pushrod housing in
the right side of the fuselage.
❑Carefully position the control horn so that the molded
pushrod attachment holes are lined up over the elevator hinge
line and angle the control horn toward the fuselage so it is
lined up with the pushrod wire.
❑When satisfied with the alignment, gently push the
control horn down to make an impression of the control horn
mounting studs onto the elevator.
❑Using a 5/64" diameter drill bit, drill two holes through the
elevator at the two marks left by the control horn.
❑With the control horn attached to the pushrod wire, firmly
push the control horn into place.
IMPORTANT So the control doesn't come loose, it will be
glued to the elevator, but don't glue it into place yet. That will
be done later.
16
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❑Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the horizontal stabilizer and the elevator, to hold the elevator
centered.
❑Plug the elevator servo into the receiver, then plug the ESC into the receiver and the flight battery into the ESC . Turn
on the radio system and center the servo using the trim lever on the transmitter.
❑Place a servo horn onto the elevator servo, making
sure that the servo horn is centered and points toward the
fuselage side.
❑With both the servo horn and the elevator centered, use
a pencil to draw a mark on the pushrod wire where it crosses
the fourth hole out from the center of the servo horn.
❑Using Z-Bend Pliers, make a Z-bend in the pushrod wire
at the mark you drew, then use wire cutters to cut away the
excess wire.
❑Connect the servo arm to the Z-Bend and attach the servo
horn to the servo output shaft, making sure that the servo
horn is centered.
To make it easier to make the Z-Bend, remove the
☞
pushrod from the control horn and pull the pushrod as far
forward as possible. This will give you more room to work.
❑Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw, provided with your servo, to secure the servo horn into place.
❑Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away and remove the covering material from the bottom of the elevator, where the
control horn will be glued into place.
❑With the control horn attached to the pushrod wire, glue the control horn to the elevator using a small dab of 5 minute
epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up completely
before proceeding.
❑Remove the masking tape from the elevator and double-check that the servo horn and the elevator are centered. If
the elevator is not centered, use a pair of pliers to carefully open or close the "V" in the pushrod wire. Doing this will
effectively lengthen or shorten the pushrod wire, centering the elevator.
Step 2: Installing the Rudder Control System
IMPORTANT The rudder control system is installed in much the same way as the elevator control system. Servo
installation is the same, control horn installation is the same, etc. There are a couple of minor differences, but those
are pointed out for you in this step.
❑Install your rudder servo into the servo tray, making sure that the servo output shaft is toward the front of the fuselage.
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17
❑Slide the remaining nylon pushrod snap-link onto the
remaining 17-3/4" long pushrod wire and carefully make an
L-Bend and a "V" shaped bend in the pushrod wire. For this
pushrod though, the "V" shaped bend should be made away
from the L-Bend, as shown.
❑Insert the L-Bend into the outermost hole in the remaining
nylon control horn so that the longer portion of the pushrod
wire is toward the left side of the control horn, and hook the
snap-link over the end of the wire.
❑Dry-fit the control horn to the left side of the rudder,
making sure that the pushrod attachment holes are positioned
over the rudder hinge line and that the control horn is lined up
with the pushrod wire.
IMPORTANT Remember not to glue the control horn to the
rudder yet.
❑Center the rudder and the rudder servo horn, then mark
and make a Z-Bend in the pushrod wire.
Remember to remove the control horn and pull the
☞
pushrod wire forward to make this easier.
❑Attach the servo horn to the pushrod, then place the servo
horn onto the servo, securing it into place using the retaining
screw provided with your servo mounting hardware.
❑Glue the rudder control horn to the rudder using a small dab of 5 minute epoxy. Allow the epoxy to completely set up,
then center the rudder by using a pair of pliers to carefully open or close the "V" in the pushrod wire.
Step 3: Installing the Aileron Control System
❑Carefully install your aileron servo into the aileron servo
tray, as shown. Again, depending on the size of your servo,
you may need to enlarge the size of the hole to fit.
18
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❑Test-fit the servo tray to the wing. When positioned
properly, the base of your servo should be centered within
the cutout in the wing and the mounting rails on the bottom of
the servo tray should fit flush against the top of the wing. The
servo output shaft should be toward the leading edge of the
wing, too.
IMPORTANT Depending on the height of your servo, you
may need to make the cutout in the wing deeper to allow the
mounting rails on the servo tray to fit flush against the top of
the wing.
❑When satisfied with the fit and alignment, cut away and remove the covering material from the top of the wing where
the mounting rails will be glued and glue the servo tray assembly into place, using 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess
epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the servo tray in place until the epoxy completely sets up.
❑Two nylon adjustable control horns have been partially threaded onto the two aileron torque rods. Thread the control
horns into their final positions. The top of the control horns should be even with the top of the torque rods.
❑Carefully make a Z-Bend and a "V" shaped bend in one
end of each aileron pushrod wire. The "V" bend in each
pushrod wire should be toward the Z-Bend, as shown.
IMPORTANT The "V" shaped bends should be located 3/4"
in front of the Z-Bends.
❑Plug the aileron servo into the receiver. Plug the ESC into the receiver and the flight battery into the ESC. Turn on the
radio system and center the servo using the trim lever on the transmitter.
❑Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the wing and the ailerons, to hold the ailerons centered.
❑Install the Z-Bend in each pushrod wire into each of the adjustable control horns.
IMPORTANT Install the pushrod wires so that the "V" shaped bends are toward the center of the wing.
❑Place a servo horn onto your servo and make a Z-Bend
in each pushrod wire where they cross the fourth hole out
from the center of the servo arm.
❑Cut away the excess wire and install the servo horn to
the pushrods and attach the servo horn to the servo, securing
it into place using the retaining screw provided with your servo
mounting hardware.
❑Remove the masking tape from the ailerons and center them by using a pair of pliers to carefully open or close the "V"
in each pushrod wire.
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19
Step 4: Installing the Receiver
The locations of the radio equipment shown in the next few steps is only approximate. This is how our test airplanes
were set up. The locations of your radio equipment could differ and should be dependent on what type of equipment
you use and where you balance your airplane.
❑Plug the elevator and rudder servo leads into their proper
slots in your receiver.
❑Mount the receiver to the plywood deck, in front of the
servos, using a piece of double-side tape (not included).
❑To run the antenna, we wound up the excess antenna onto an antenna bobbin and secured the bobbin to the side of the
fuselage ,using a small piece of double-sided foam tape. We then ran the antenna out through the small air-exit hole in the
bottom of the fuselage and taped the end of it to the back of the fuselage, using a piece of clear tape.
Step 5: Installing the Electronic Speed Control
❑Remove the battery door from the bottom of the fuselage and set it aside.
Important Tip: To minimize current loss, it is imperative that you remove the stock Tamiya connector likely preinstalled
on your ESC and flight battery, and replace it with a high-quality connector, such as a Dean's Ultra-Plug. Failure to do
this can cause a loss of power and result in a poor flying airplane.
❑Carefully solder the positive and negative motor wires to the motor wire on your ESC, being careful that the polarity is
correct. Make sure to use heat-shrink tubing to insulate the solder joints.
Important Tip: We strongly suggest removing the motor plugs on the motor and the motor plugs that are likely
preinstalled on your ESC and soldering the motor wires directly to the motor wires on your ESC. Bypassing the plugs
will prevent any chance of current loss which could affect the amount of power to the motor.
❑Mount the ESC to the plywood plate, directly behind the
firewall, using a small piece of double-sided foam tape.
❑Run the ESC throttle lead through the fuselage and plug it into the receiver.
❑If your ESC features a micro switch you can mount it to the side of the fuselage using two small wood screws
(not included.)
20
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Look at the base of the center cabane strut and notice
☞
the two precut notches. The notch in the very end of the strut
should be toward the back of the fuselage when the strut is
pushed into place. The strut will fit only one way.
❑Test-fit the center cabane strut into the precut slot in the
top of the fuselage. When positioned properly, the strut should
be pushed down completely into place and the strut should
be aligned straight up and down when viewed from the front
of the fuselage.
❑When satisfied with the alignment, glue the center cabane strut into place using a generous amount of 5 minute
epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the strut in place and aligned until
the epoxy sets up.
Step 2: Installing the Top Wing & Outer Wing Struts
❑Carefully install the four prebent aluminum mounting
brackets (two per wing) to the top of the bottom wing and to
the bottom of the top wing, using four M3 x 10 wood screws.
To position the brackets properly, the vertical portion of each
bracket should be toward the center of the wing and parallel
to the wing ribs.
Pilot holes have been predrilled into both wings for the
☞
wood screws; notice that the wood screws are installed through
the smaller diameter predrilled holes in the brackets.
❑Mount the bottom wing to the fuselage using the M3 x 20 machine screw provided.
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21
❑Carefully mount the top wing to the center cabane strut
using two M3 x 8 machine screws.
IMPORTANT Make sure to use the two M3 x 8 machine
screws and not two M3 x 6 machine screws.
Airplane pictured upside down for photo clarity.
☞
❑Mount the two outer wing struts to the mounting brackets
using four M3 x 6 machine screws.
IMPORTANT There are separate right and left struts and
they will fit properly in only one direction. When positioned
properly, the predrilled holes in the struts will line up with the
predrilled holes in the mounting brackets and the ends of the
struts will be flush with the surface of the wings.
❑ Electric or Hand Drill
❑ 1/4" Drill Bit
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand
❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron
❑ Solder
Step 1: Installing the Propeller & Spinner
❑Test-fit the nylon propeller adapter rings over the propeller hub and remove the one that's the closest fit.
❑Press the nylon propeller adapter ring into the spinner backplate.
❑Using a 1/4" diameter drill bit, very carefully enlarge the hole in the propeller.
IMPORTANT We strongly suggest holding the propeller with a heavy rag while enlarging the hole. The propeller
blades are very sharp and they could cut your hand if the drill bit bites and spins the propeller around.
®
Strip
22
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Step 2: Installing the Flight Battery
❑Install the spinner backplate and propeller, making sure
to tighten the propeller screw securely.
Make sure when you install the propeller that it is centered
☞
between the two molded grooves in the backplate; otherwise,
the spinner cone will not line up properly when it's installed.
❑Slide the plastic spinner cone over the propeller and align
it with the molded grooves in the backplate. Secure the
spinner cone in place using the two screws provided.
❑Firmly stick the strip of Velcro
mount the flight battery into the fuselage. The flight battery is
positioned on the top side of the plywood plate that the
receiver is mounted on, and can be accessed through the
battery door on the bottom of the fuselage.
IMPORTANT A strip of Velcro
plywood plate to hold the battery in place.
®
to your flight battery and
®
has been preinstalled on the
IMPORTANT Don't worry yet about mounting your flight battery in its final location. You will have to move it fore or
aft to balance the airplane in the next section.
❑Using a modeling knife, remove the covering material from
over the lightening hole in the plywood battery door.
❑Reinstall the battery door using the two wood screws
provided.
IMPORTANT Do not omit this procedure. This hole needs
to be opened so that the motor does not overheat during flight.
It is also convenient because you can reach your battery wires
to charge your flight battery without having to remove the
battery door or the fight battery from the fuselage.
❑Using a modeling knife, remove the covering material from
over the last lightening hole in the bottom of the fuselage.
IMPORTANT As the motor, ESC and flight battery are cooled
from the incoming air at the front of the airplane, hot air is
produced. This hot air must exit the fuselage to prevent the
motor, ESC and flight battery from overheating. Do not omit
this procedure.
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23
SECTION 13: BALANCING THE ULTIMATE BIPE EP
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ Ruler
❑ Pencil
IMPORTANT It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly. Improper balance will cause your airplane to lose
control and crash!
Center of Gravity Location:
2-1/2" to 3" back from the leading edge of the TOP wing, measured at the centerline of the wing.
WARNING This is the recommended C/G range. For test-flying we suggest you start with the C/G in the middle of the
range (2-3/4"), then move it farther back as you become familiar with the flying characteristics of the airplane. It is not
recommended that the C/G be located any farther back than 3".
IMPORTANT As you move the C/G farther aft, the airplane will become more responsive, especially in pitch. Do not start
to move the C/G back until you are comfortable with the flight characteristics of the airplane.
Balance the Ultimate Bipe EP with the flight battery installed.
☞
❑Measure and draw two marks on the bottom of the TOP wing, 2-3/4" back from the leading edge, measured at the
centerline of the wing.
❑With the airplane rightside up, place your fingers on the marks, and carefully lift the airplane. If the nose of the airplane
falls, the airplane is nose heavy. To correct this, move the flight battery back far enough to bring the airplane into balance.
If the tail of the airplane falls, the airplane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the flight battery forward enough to bring the
airplane into balance. When balanced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with
your fingers at the C/G location. In some cases, it may be necessary to move your ESC and/or receiver to make the
airplane balance properly.
Once you have flown and become familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, the C/G can be moved forward
☞
or aft up to 1/8" in each direction to change the flight performance. Moving the C/G back will cause the airplane to be more
responsive, but less stable. Moving the C/G forward will cause the airplane to be less responsive, but more stable.
Do not fly the airplane beyond the recommended balance range or an uncontrollable crash could result!
SECTION 14: LATERAL BALANCING THE ULTIMATE BIPE EP
Lateral balancing will make the airplane easier to trim and will make it track straighter in the air. It is strongly
☞
recommended.
❑Turn the airplane upside down and tie one length of string to the propeller shaft and one length of string to the tail
wheel wire.
❑With someone helping you, carefully lift the airplane up by the two pieces of string. Watch how the wings react. If one
side of the wings drop, that side is heavier than the other. To correct this condition, stick a small piece of self-adhesive lead
weight to the bottom of the lighter wing half (the ones that don't drop). For best mechanical advantage, place the weight as
close to the wing tip as possible.
❑Repeat the procedure a couple of more times to double-check your findings. When done properly the wings should
stay level when you lift the airplane by the string.
24
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SECTION 15: CONTROL THROWS
We recommend setting up the Ultimate Bipe EP using the control throws listed below. These control throws are suggested
for initial test-flying because they will allow the airplane to fly smoother and make it easier to control.
TEST-FLYING
Ailerons:1/2" Up1/2" Down
Elevator:1/2" Up1/2" Down
Rudder:3/4" Right3/4" Left
Measure the control surface throw from the widest point of the control surface.
☞
Once you're familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, you might want to increase the control throws to the
aerobatic-flying settings listed below. These control throws will make the airplane more responsive and allow you to do
most aerobatics with ease.
AEROBATIC-FLYING
Ailerons:7/8" Up7/8" Down
Elevator:1" Up1" Down
Rudder:1-1/2" Right1-1/2" Left
IMPORTANT We do not suggest increasing the control throws beyond the recommended aerobatic-flying settings
unless you are a very proficient flyer. Higher control throws will cause the airplane to be extremely control-sensitive
and result in a possible crash if you are not careful.
SECTION 16: PREFLIGHT CHECK & SAFETY
●
Check the operation of the throttle. To do this, do the following:
A) Plug the flight battery into the ESC and turn on the radio system.
WARNING Do not turn the receiver on unless the transmitter is turned on first. Always turn the transmitter on first.
Never allow hands or clothing to get in the way of the propeller when the radio is turned on. Sudden unwanted radio
signals, or turning the radio on with the throttle stick set at full throttle, can turn the motor on unintentionally. Always
make sure that the throttle control stick is set to idle before turning on the transmitter.
B) When the throttle control stick is at the idle position, the motor should be off. Moving the stick forward
should turn on the motor. Gradually moving the stick to the full forward position should result in the motor running at
full power.
Some ESCs will give you more proportional control than others. Your ESC may also have a manual control
☞
adjustment screw that must be adjusted prior to using the ESC. (Refer to your ESC's operating guide for further
information.)
●
Cycle the flight battery three times. When NiCD batteries are new they need to be used 2-3 times before they will
produce their top voltage and duration. To cycle them, simply charge the battery and then run the motor (at low speed
to prevent damaging it) until the motor stops. Allow the battery and motor to cool, then repeat this procedure two
more times.
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Continued On Next Page
25
PREFLIGHT CHECK & SAFETY CONTINUED.....
●
Check the condition of the transmitter batteries. They should be fully charged.
●
Check every bolt and every glue joint in the airplane to ensure that everything is tight and well-bonded.
●
Double-check that all of the control horns are tight.
●
Double-check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the flight battery installed.
●
Check the control surfaces. They should all move in the correct direction and not bind.
●
If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches, double-check that they are on the low-rate setting for
your first few flights.
●
Check to ensure that all of the control surfaces are moving the proper amount in both low and high rate settings.
●
Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage. The only exception
to this is if the excess antenna is properly wound around an antenna bobbin.
●
Properly balance the propeller. A propeller that is out of balance will cause excessive vibration, which could lead
to motor and/or airframe failure, and it will reduce motor efficiency and power.
The following are our general guidelines for your safety and the safety of others. Please read and understand
these safety guidelines before going out to the flying field for the first time.
●
Do not test-fly your model for the first time without first having it safety-checked by an experienced modeler.
●
Do not fly your model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without having an observer
with you. The observer should tell you about any full-size aircraft in your vicinity and you should always give the
right-of-way to full-scale aircraft.
●
When flying at a flying field with established rules, you should abide by those rules. You should not deliberately fly
your model in a reckless and/or dangerous manner.
●
While flying, you should not deliberately fly behind the flight line. If your model should inadvertently fly behind the
flight line, you should change course immediately.
●
You should complete a successful range check of your radio equipment prior to each new day of flying, or prior to
the first flight of a new or repaired model.
●
You should perform your initial turn after take- off away from the flightline and/or spectator area.
●
You should not knowingly operate your R/C radio system within 3 miles of a preexisting model club flying field
without a frequency sharing agreement with that club.
26
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SECTION 17: FLYING THE ULTIMATE BIPE EP
The Ultimate Bipe EP is designed for those pilots who are experienced at flying sport models. It is not a trainer. If you do
not feel comfortable about test-flying the airplane, don't hesitate to ask someone more experienced for help.
When set up for test-flying, the Ultimate Bipe EP is much like flying any other sport aerobatic airplane and because it has
a relatively low wing loading, the airplane is predictable during low-speed flight and landing. You should find your first few
test flights enjoyable.
TAKING OFF FROM THE GROUND
It is important to let the airplane get up to flying speed before lifting off the ground. Lifting the airplane off the ground too
fast will cause the airplane to stall and crash. You should allow the airplane to roll out until the tail is completely off the
ground and flying. Allow the airplane to roll out on its main wheels about 50 feet more and then gently pull it off the ground
and into a shallow climb. Because of the torque of the motor, the airplane will have a natural tendency to pull to the left
when it is accelerating down the runway. You will need to compensate for this by applying and holding right rudder during
the takeoff roll. Once the airplane lifts off the ground, you can release the right rudder.
IN THE AIR
In the air the Ultimate Bipe EP is smooth and predictable. At full power, the motor and propeller combination produce
enough torque to pull the airplane through just about any maneuver you want. You'll find that the airplane is responsive
to control inputs and handles light winds with ease. When trimmed and set up properly, the airplane goes where you put
it and tracks like it's on rails. With the C/G set toward the back of the range, snap rolls are crisp and very little elevator
input is necessary for inverted flight. And because of the generous fuselage side area and highly effective rudder, knife
edge flight is very easy. All this results in an airplane that's easier to fly during more difficult maneuvers like 4-point rolls,
rolling circles and slow rolls.
LANDING
Like take-off, landing should always be done into the wind.
Prepare for landing by reducing power and making a shallow turn into the wind. (With power off we strongly suggest
avoiding high-banked turns.) With the airplane on final approach it will begin to slow down and descend. With the
airplane descending, apply small amounts of up elevator to slow the airplane's speed. Just before touch-down, turn the
motor off and let the airplane settle near the ground. Flair just before touch-down and you will be rewarded with a soft
landing. As always, when landing, be careful not to over-control. Over-controlling leads to excessive oscillations which
don't make for good landings. You may find that the airplane lands easier if you come in slightly faster and land on the
main gear rather than trying to slow down to do a three point landing.
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27
SECTION 18: ULTIMATE BIPE EP TRIMMING CHART
After you have test-flown and done the initial trim changes to the airplane, use this trimming chart to begin trimming your
airplane. Following and adhering to this chart will result in the ability to diagnose trim problems and correct those problems
using the simple adjustments shown below. Making these observations and related corrections will result in a straighter
and truer flying airplane.
TRIM FEATUREMANEUVEROBSERVATIONCORRECTION
Control CenteringFly general circles and random
maneuvers
Control ThrowsFly random maneuversA) Controls are too sensitive or airplane
Motor Thrust Angle*From straight and level flight,
quickly chop the throttle for a
short distance
Center of GravityFrom level flight, roll to a 45º
bank and neutralize the controls
Yaw**Into the wind, perform inside
loops using only elevator.
Repeat test performing outside
loops from an inverted entry
Try for hands off straight and level flightReadjust linkages so the transmitter trim
feels "jerky"
B) Controls are not sensitive enough or
airplane feels "mushy"
A) Airplane continues in a level attitude
for a short distance
B) Airplane pitches nose up
C) Airplane pitches nose down
A) Airplane continues in the bank for a
short distance
B) Nose pitches up
C) Nose pitches down
A) Wing is level throughout
B) Airplane yaws to the right in both
inside and outside loops
C) Airplane yaws to the left in both inside
and outside loops
D) Airplane yaws to the right in inside
loops and yaws to the left in outside
loops
E) Airplane yaws to the left in inside loops
and yaws to the right in outside loops
levers are centered
If A) Adjust linkages to reduce control
throws
If B) Adjust linkages to increase control
throws
If A) Motor thrust angle is correct
If B) Decrease Motor down thrust
If C) Increase Motor down thrust
If A) Center of gravity is correct
If B) Add nose weight
If C) Remove nose weight or add tail weight
If A) Trim settings are correct
If B) Add left rudder trim
If C) Add right rudder trim
If D) Add left aileron trim
If E) Add right aileron trim
Lateral Balance**Into the wind, perform tight inside
Aileron Control SystemWith the wing level, pull to a
*Motor thrust angle and center of gravity interact. Check both.
**Yaw and lateral balance produce similar symptoms. Note that the fin may be crooked. Make certain both elevator halves are even with each other and
that they both produce the same amount of control deflection throughout the complete deflection range. Right and left references are as if you were in
the cockpit.
28
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loops using only elevator
vertical climb and neutralize
the controls
A) Wing is level and airplane falls to
either side
B) Airplane falls off to the left. Worsens
as loops tighten
C) Airplane falls off to the right. Worsens
as loops tighten
A) Climb continues along the same path
B) Nose tends to go toward an inside loop
C) Nose tends to go toward an outside loop
If A) Lateral balance is correct
If B) Add weight to right wing tip
If C) Add weight to left wing tip
If A) Trim settings are correct
If B) Raise both ailerons very slightly
If C) Lower both ailerons very slightly
SECTION 19: REPLACEMENT PARTS
Wattage stocks a complete line of replacement parts for your Ultimate Bipe EP. Listed below are the replacement parts
that are available along with their respective part numbers for easy ordering convenience. We suggest ordering directly
from your local dealer. If your dealer does not stock Wattage products, you can order directly from us at the address
shown below:
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley CA 92708
Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236
http://globalservices.globalhobby.com
On the Web
Wattage Ultimate Bipe EP - Complete .............. 128401
Wattage Super Cobalt 400 Motor ....................... 131480
APC 7 x 4 Propeller ............................................ 608140
Motor Brushes & Springs Set for Cobalt 400 ..... 131475
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1)Kit: Wattage Ultimate Bipe EP # 128401
2)Where did you learn about this kit?
❑Magazine Ads❑Friend
❑Hobby Shop❑Other
❑Internet
3)What influenced you the most to buy this kit?
❑Magazine Ads❑Price
❑Type of Model❑Box Art
❑Recommendation❑Other
❑Internet
4)Did you have any trouble understanding the written
instructions? If yes, please explain.