WATT AGE Live Wire Assembly Instructions

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Page 1

INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY

Specifications:

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Wing Span: 35 Inches

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The Wattage Live Wire EP is distributed exclusively by

Global Hobby Distributors 18480 Bandilier Circle,

Fountain Valley, CA 92708

Distributors Version V1.0 December 2002

Wing Area: 318 Square Inches

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Length: 32.5 Inches

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Weight RTF: 15 - 17 Ounces

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Functions: Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder and Throttle

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Power: 370 Motor w/B.B. Gear Box & Nylon Propeller

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Radio: 4 Channel Micro w/4 Servos & 30 AMP ESC

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Battery: 8 Cell 800Mah 5/4AAA NiMH

Kit Product Number 128435

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Safety Warning ...................................................................................... 2

Introduction ............................................................................................ 3

Section 1: Our Recommendations.......................................... 4

Section 2: Tools and Supplies Required ................................ 5

Section 3: Kit Contents ........................................................... 6

Section 4: Replacement Parts ................................................ 7

Section 5: Metric Conversion Chart ........................................ 7

Section 6: Wing Assembly and Mounting ............................... 8

Section 7: Stabilizer Assembly and Installation ..................... 11

Section 8: Rudder and Tail Wheel Installation ..................... 15

Section 9: Main Landing Gear Installation ........................... 17

Section 10: Motor/Gear Box Installation ............................... 18

Section 11: Control Systems Installation .............................. 20

Section 12: Final Assembly................................................... 24

Section 13: Balancing the Live Wire EP............................... 27

Section 14: Lateral Balancing the Live Wire EP .................. 28

Section 15: Control Throws................................................... 28

Section 16: Computer Radio Setup ...................................... 29

Section 17: Preflight Check & Safety ................................... 30

Section 18: Flying the Live Wire EP ..................................... 31

Section 19: Trim Chart .......................................................... 32

Product Evaluation Sheet ...................................................................35

SAFETY WARNING

This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control system and any other components purchased separately.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. If there is no hobby shop in your area, we recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to help you locate a flying field near you.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie IN 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262

www.modelaircraft.org

OUR GUARANTEE

Wattage guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Wattage's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Wattage has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

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INTRODUCTION

Thank you for purchasing the new Wattage Live Wire EP. Before completing the final assembly of your new airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure your success the first time around!

Wattage Live Wire EP Features:

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370 Size Motor w/Ball Bearing Gear Box and Nylon Propeller

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Great Flight Characteristics - Oversized Control Surfaces for Extreme Aerobatics

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Molded Plastic Cowling, Fuselage Top Deck and Clear Canopy

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High-Strength Foam Wing w/Fiberglass-Reinforced Stabilizer & Full-Flying Rudder

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Can Take Off from the Ground or Can Be Hand-Launched

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Complete Hardware Package and Custom Decal Set Included

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Fast and Easy Assembly - 50 High Resolution Digital Photos Guide You

This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new airplane in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before beginning assembly.

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Please read through each step before beginning assembly. You should find the layout very complete and straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through assembly without any of the headaches and hassles that you might expect.

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Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the

small parts in after you open the accessory bags.

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We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but take your time. This will ensure you build a straight, strong and great flying airplane.

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There are check boxes next to each step. After you complete a step, check off the box. This will help prevent you from losing your place.

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Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth,

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If you come across this symbol ☞, it means that

this is an important point or an assembly hint.

both to protect the table and to protect the parts.

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly,

please contact us at the address below:

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 Email: [email protected]

Visit our website at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

To enable us to better serve your needs, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us. Your email address will be added to our Customer Service Database so you will automatically receive free updates and tech notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if applicable) and other important information about your product as it becomes available.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS

Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,

trade, or rent your personal information to others . Your privacy is important to us.

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

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SECTION 1: OUR RECOMMENDATIONS

This section describes the items you will need to purchase for your new Live Wire EP. These suggestions are not set in stone, but they should provide you with a good starting point.

IMPORTANT When choosing accessories for your Live Wire EP, such as servos, ESC, and receiver, it's very

important to take the weight of these items into consideration. Remember, the lighter the overall weight of the finished airplane, the better the airplane will fly.

What Servos Do I Use?

The servos you use should be the lightest available, yet still have an adequate amount of torque. We suggest using servos that weigh no more than 0.22 ounces and have a torque rating of no less than 7.0 ounces per square inch. Cirrus CS-10 servos or Hitec HS-50 servos would be a perfect choice.

What Receiver Do I Use?

The receiver should be as light as possible, preferably 1/2oz. or less. Most four-channel micro receivers would be a good choice. If you plan on using the Hitec 555 Micro receiver, we suggest removing the case to reduce the receiver's weight. If you do remove the case from your receiver we strongly suggest wrapping the receiver with heat-shrink material to protect the internal components.

Special Note: We don't suggest using short-range receivers like the Hitec Feather or Cirrus MRX-4. The range provided by these

receivers will not be long enough for you to keep control of the airplane.

Since the Live Wire EP uses two aileron servos, you can use aileron/elevator mixing and spoileron and flaperon mixing if your transmitter features these mixing capabilities. If your transmitter does support these mixing capabilities, you must make sure that the receiver you use supports the mixing capabilities of your transmitter. Most 5 channel receivers don't, so you'll have to use a six or more channel receiver. If it has a case, remove it to save weight.

What Electronic Speed Control Do I Use?

The ESC you choose should be capable of handling up to 15 amps continuous current. Again, lighter is better. Your ESC should weigh no more than 1 ounce including the wiring and switch.

Special Note: Most 15 Amp ESCs don't support the use of more than three servos. Since the Live Wire EP uses four servos

you most likely will have to use a 20 - 30 Amp ESC. Check the specifications of the ESC you choose to make sure it will support the use of four servos.

What Flight Battery Do I Use?

To get good flight performance you need to use the right type of flight battery. You need a flight battery that can deliver enough voltage and be light enough to power the airplane through aerobatic maneuvers, yet still be able to handle current draw up to approximately 8 - 10 amps. Through much testing on this power system and airframe combination, we have found the 8 cell 800Mah 5/4AAA NiMH battery pack delivers the best performance in terms of weight, power and duration. You certainly could use NiCD battery packs - they will give you more power, but they are heavier and offer much less duration than NiMH batteries. Depending on how you fly the airplane, the trade-off between higher weight and less duration may not be worth the extra power.

Special Note: At the time of this writing, most 5/4AAA NiMH batteries cannot withstand current draw above 10 amps. If you

use our included 370 size motor, gear box and propeller, current draw will not be a problem; however, if you experiment with larger propellers or different motors and gear boxes, the current draw may be too high for 5/4AAA NiMH batteries. If this is the case, you will need to use NiCD batteries in your airplane. NiMH battery technology is evolving quickly, so in the future they may be compatible with high-draw power systems.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

Page 5

Here's a List of What We Used to Finish Our Live Wire EP:

QTY. 1 759118 Hitec Micro 555 5Ch. Receiver

Hitec Dual Conversion FM RX Crystal

QTY. 4 444052 Cirrus CS-10 Super-Micro Servos

QTY. 1 444728 Cirrus Y-Harness

Note: To minimize current loss, we suggest soldering the motor wires directly to the ESC and replacing the stock Tamiya-style connectors on your battery and ESC with a high-quality Dean's Ultra-Plug.

QTY. 1 128486 Wattage IC-30A Micro ESC

QTY. 1 128538 Wattage 8 Cell 800Mah 5/4AAA NiMH Flight Battery

QTY. 1 130108 Wattage PF-12 AC/DC Park Flyer Charger

QTY. 1 625085 Deans Ultra-Plug Connector

3M 3/4" Wide Clear Plastic Tape - Available at Most Hardware Stores

IMPORTANT

The part numbers listed for the Hitec receiver, Cirrus servos and Cirrus Y-Harness are compatible with Hitec and JR (receiver is compatible with Hitec only) radio control systems. These items are also available with connectors that are compatible with Futaba and Airtronics radio control systems. (Micro 555 receiver is also available for Airtronics, Futaba and JR radio systems.) The Wattage IC-15A ESC is compatible with Futaba, JR, Hitec and Airtronics Z.

When you purchase the Hitec Micro 555 receiver, you must also purchase a Hitec brand crystal compatible with the receiver. The crystal must also be on the same frequency as your transmitter. Note that the Micro 555 receiver uses a dual conversion FM Hitec crystal.

SECTION 2: TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560 ❑ Lightweight Oil or Vaseline ❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers # 237473 ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Adjustable Wrench ❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692801 ❑ Scissors ❑ Electric or Hand Drill ❑ Assorted Drill Bits ❑ Ruler

❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Builder's Triangle ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Push-Pins ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204 ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205 ❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron # 598120 ❑ Heat-Shrink Tubing (Assorted Sizes) ❑ Solder ❑ Hair Dryer or Covering Heat Gun

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

Page 6

SECTION 3: KIT CONTENTS

We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly and it will also help you become familiar with each part. If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact us below:

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 Email: [email protected]

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

❑ (1) Fuselage ❑ (1) Left & Right Wing Panels ❑ (1) Left & Right Ailerons ❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves ❑ (1) Rudder

LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY

❑ (1) Prebent Main Gear Wire ❑ (1) Nylon Main Gear Mounting Plate ❑ (2) Plastic Main Gear Wheels ❑ (2) Plastic Main Gear Wheel Retainers ❑ (1) Tail Wheel Bracket w/Wire ❑ (1) Plastic Tail Wheel ❑ (1) Plastic Tail Wheel Retainer

MISCELLANEOUS STABILIZER PARTS

❑ (2) Fiberglass Dowels ❑ (1) Self-Adhesive White Tape ❑ (1) Self-Adhesive Red Tape ❑ (1) Prebent Elevator Joiner Wire ❑ (1) Elevator Reinforcement Board - 2 Parts

MOTOR ASSEMBLY

On the Web

http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

CONTROL SYSTEM ASSEMBLIES

❑ (2) M1.5 x 150 Threaded Wires ❑ (2) M1.5 x 400 Threaded Wires ❑ (4) M1.5 x 25 Machine Screws ❑ (4) M1.5 x 8 Machine Screws ❑ (4) Nylon Control Horn Front Plates ❑ (4) Nylon Control Horn Back Plates ❑ (4) Nylon Clevises ❑ (4) Nylon Adjustable Control Horns ❑ (2) Nylon Pushrod Supports ❑ (2) Nylon Hinges

MISCELLANEOUS FUSELAGE PARTS

❑ (1) Molded Plastic Cowling ❑ (1) Molded Plastic Fuselage Top Deck ❑ (1) Molded Clear Canopy ❑ (1) Plywood Motor Mounting Plate ❑ (1) Elevator/Rudder Servo Mounting Board - 2 Parts ❑ (1) Aileron Servo Mounting Board - 2 Parts ❑ (4) M2 x 5 Wood Screws ❑ (1) Double-Sided Tape ❑ (1) Velcro ❑ (1) Decal Set

Mounting Material

❑ (1) 370 Size Motor w/Ball Bearing Gear Box ❑ (1) Nylon Propeller ❑ (1) Spinner Assembly - Front & Back ❑ (2) M3 Hex Nuts ❑ (2) M3 Flat Washers ❑ (3) M2.5 x 12 Wood Screws

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = mm

To convert millimeters into inches: Millimeters / 25.4 = in

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SECTION 4: REPLACEMENT PARTS

Wattage stocks a complete line of replacement parts for your Live Wire EP. Listed below are the replacement parts that are available along with their respective part numbers for easy ordering convenience. We suggest ordering directly from your local dealer. If your dealer does not stock Wattage products, you can order directly from us at the address shown below:

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236

http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

On the Web

Wattage Live Wire EP - Complete - 128435

Instruction Manual - 145267

Wing Set - 145268

Fuselage Set - 145269

Stabilizer Set - 145270

Plastic Cowling - 145271

Decal Set - 145272

Clear Canopy - 145273

Plastic Top Deck - 145274

Adjustable Control Horn Set (2) - 152114

SECTION 5: METRIC CONVERSION CHART

To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = mm

To convert millimeters into inches: Millimeters / 25.4 = in

1/64" = .4mm

1/32" = .8mm

1/16" = 1.6mm

3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm

5/32" = 4.0mm

3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm

3/8" = 9.5mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

5/8" = 15.9mm

3/4" = 19.0mm

Gear & Wheel Set w/Mount - 152251

Pushrod Wires - 152110

370 Size Motor - 131350

10" Nylon Propeller - 131384

Ball Bearings for Gear Box - 131368

Gear Box Assembly (4.78:1) - 131369

Gears Only (4.78:1) - 131374

370 Motor w/Gear Box, Prop & Spinner - 131352

Spinner Assembly - 145310

1" = 25.4mm

2" = 50.8mm

3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm

12" = 304.8mm

18" = 457.2mm

21" = 533.4mm

24" = 609.6mm

30" = 762.0mm

36" = 914.4mm

WARNING

The Live Wire EP includes a foam wing, fuselage, stabilizer and rudder. It is very important that you use no solvents, Cyanoacrylate (C/A) glue, or paint that can damage foam. If any of these chemicals comes in contact with the foam parts, the parts will be destroyed and will not be covered under warranty. Use only epoxy on the foam parts where glue is required. If you decide to add painted details to the airplane, use acrylic-based paints and always test the paint on a scrap piece first.

We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in direct sunlight) for any length of time. The extreme heat could cause the clear canopy, plastic fuselage top deck or plastic cowling to buckle, the foam to melt, and could possibly damage the fragile components of the radio system, ESC or batteries.

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

Page 8

SECTION 6: WING ASSEMBLY & MOUNTING

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Fuselage ❑ (1) Left & Right Wing Panels

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

Step 1: Joining the Wing Panels

❑ Test-fit the two wing panels together. There should be

no gaps in the center section joint and the top and bottom of the wing panels should be perfectly flat.

❑ (1) Left & Right Ailerons

❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups ❑ Hair Dryer or Covering Heat Gun

If there are gaps in the center section joint, or if the wing

☞

panels are not perfectly flat with each other, use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to lightly sand the root sections of both wing panels straight and even.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, glue the wing panels together using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy.

Remove any excess epoxy before it sets up using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the wing panels firmly in place until the epoxy sets up.

❑ After the epoxy has cured, apply a strip of clear plastic

tape to the bottom of the wing, over the center section joint.

❑ Turn the wing over and apply a second strip of clear

plastic tape to the top of the wing, over the center section joint.

IMPORTANT The strips of tape should overlap the leading

and trailing edges of the wing.

❑ With the clear plastic tape securely in place, use a hair dryer to carefully shrink the heat-shrink material tight across the

entire wing, both top and bottom. DO NOT REMOVE THE CLEAR HEAT-SHRINK MATERIAL FROM THE WING. THIS

MATERIAL ADDS AN ENORMOUS AMOUNT OF STRENGTH AND INTEGRITY TO THE WING.

WARNING Work slowly and use only enough heat to shrink the heat-shrink material. Excessive heat could melt the foam

wing. If you use a heat gun made for shrinking polyester covering materials, remember that these produce much more heat than a standard hair dryer, so be sure to keep the heat gun farther away from the wing. Too much heat can burn through the clear heat-shrink material and possibly melt the foam wing.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to [email protected]

Page 9

Step 2: Hinging the Ailerons

Step 3: Mounting the Wing

❑ Hinge each aileron to the wing using a strip of clear

plastic tape. Apply the tape to the top of the parts, making sure there is no more than a continuous 1/16" wide gap between the leading edge of the ailerons and the wing.

There must be a 1/16" gap between the ailerons and the

☞

wing so that the ailerons will deflect down completely. Also, the leading edge of the ailerons are beveled. The beveled edge should be toward the bottom of the wing.

❑ Using a sharp modeling knife, very carefully cut away

and remove the belly pan from the fuselage.

Make several shallow cuts through the foam instead of

☞

trying to make just one cut. If you have a fine-toothed razor saw, that would work just as well to make the cuts.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper, very carefully sand the surface

of the wing mount smooth and straight.

WARNING Sand lightly and in small increments so you don't

distort the shape of the wing mount or sand it unevenly.

❑ Place the wing into the fuselage and center it in the wing

mount. When centered, the center section seam at the leading and trailing edges of the wing should be lined up with the fuselage mold seam.

You may find that you will have to enlarge the wing mount

☞

slightly so that the wing will fit into place without distorting the shape of the fuselage.

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

Page 10

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, turn the fuselage over and push the wing into place firmly until there are few or no

gaps between the wing and the fuselage.

You may have to lightly sand the wing mount so that it matches the contour of the wing more precisely.

☞

❑ With the wing held firmly in position, use a ruler to check

and make sure that the top of the fuselage is perfectly flat. This is extremely important. If the top of the fuselage is bowed, the plastic top deck won't fit properly and the motor will not be at the proper angle when they're installed later.

IMPORTANT If the top of the fuselage is bowed, remove

the wing and lightly sand the wing mount until the wing can be installed without distorting the top of the fuselage.

❑ When completely satisfied with the alignment of the wing, remove it and lightly roughen only the gluing surface on the

top of the wing using 220 grit sandpaper.

❑ Glue the wing to the fuselage using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper

towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the wing in alignment until the epoxy sets up.

Step 4: Mounting the Belly Pan

❑ Set the belly pan into place on the bottom of the wing.

When aligned properly it should fit firmly between the front and back of the fuselage and there should be few or no gaps between the bottom of the belly pan and the wing.

IMPORTANT You may have to pull down slightly on the

front of the fuselage to close any gaps between the front and back of the belly pan and the fuselage. If so, double-check with a ruler that the top of the fuselage is straight.

You may find it necessary to lightly sand the mounting surface of the belly pan to better match the contour of the wing.

☞

If so, work slowly and check the fit often, so you don't remove too much material.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, remove the belly pan and lightly roughen only the gluing surface on the bottom of

the wing using 220 grit sandpaper.

❑ Glue the belly pan to the wing and fuselage using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy

using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the belly pan and fuselage in alignment until the epoxy sets up.

IMPORTANT It's important to the overall strength of the fuselage that the front and back of the belly pan be glued to the

fuselage securely.

❑ After the epoxy has completely dried, carefully sand the bottom and sides of the belly pan flush with the fuselage using

220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, being careful not to distort the contours.

❑ Double-check and make sure that the heat-shrink material on the top and bottom of the wing is still tight. It's possible

that after mounting the wing and belly pan that parts of the heat-shrink material have wrinkled. If so, carefully reshrink those areas using a hair dryer or a covering heat gun.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to [email protected]

Page 11

SECTION 7: STABILIZER ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves ❑ (1) Fiberglass Dowel ❑ (1) Self-Adhesive White Tape

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Builder's Triangle

Step 1: Installing the Fiberglass Dowel

A fiberglass dowel is provided to strengthen the horizontal stabilizer. It's very important that the stabilizer be flat when you glue the dowel into place. This will ensure you don't build a warp into the stabilizer.

❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer inside the precut channel in the bottom of the

horizontal stabilizer.

❑ (1) Prebent Elevator Joiner Wire ❑ (1) Elevator Reinforcement Board - 2 Parts

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Push-Pins ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Line up the ends of the dowel with the ends of the stabilizer

and carefully push the dowel into the channel. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the dowel in place until the epoxy sets up.

IMPORTANT When gluing the dowel into place, it's important

that the dowel be glued securely into the channel and that the stabilizer be perfectly flat during the drying process.

❑ Remove the protective backing from the strip of white self-adhesive tape and apply the tape to the bottom of the

stabilizer, over the dowel. Trim the ends of the tape even with the ends of the stabilizer using a modeling knife.

Step 2: Installing the Elevator Joiner Wire

❑ Place the prebent elevator joiner wire onto the bottom of

the elevator halves.

❑ Center the wire over the middle of the elevator halves,

making sure that the front of the wire is even with the beveled leading edge of the elevators.

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, push the wire down

firmly to make an impression of the wire in the foam.

Page 12

❑ Remove the elevator joiner wire and set it aside.

❑ Using a ruler and a modeling knife, carefully cut a very

shallow groove in each elevator half using the impression left in the foam as a guide.

Don't cut too deeply. You don't want to cut through the

☞

top of the elevators.

❑ Test-fit the joiner wire into the elevators. When pushed into place, it should be flush with the bottom of the

elevators and fit firmly in the grooves. The front of the joiner wire should also be even with the bevel in the leading edge of the elevators.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and carefully glue the joiner wire into place.

Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the elevators flat until the epoxy sets up.

IMPORTANT During the drying process, double-check that the elevator halves are both flat on your work table. This will

prevent one elevator from being glued at a different angle than the other elevator.

❑ After the epoxy has set up, carefully apply one piece of

elevator reinforcement board over each end of the elevator joiner wire.

IMPORTANT Make sure each piece covers the entire end

of the joiner wire.

❑ To strengthen the elevator hinge lines, we suggest applying a strip of clear plastic tape over the top of each hinge line,

using the same technique as with the ailerons. This will strengthen the hinge lines, especially over time.

Step 3: Aligning the Horizontal Stabilizer Assembly

❑ Using a ruler and a modeling knife, carefully cut away

and remove the piece of foam between the back of the fuselage and the stabilizer mounting slot.

Save the piece of foam you cut away. It will be glued

☞

back into place after installing the stabilizer assembly.

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure and draw a centerline mark on the top of the stabilizer, at the trailing edge.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to [email protected]

Page 13

❑ Using a builder's triangle and a pencil, draw a centerline

mark on the top of the stabilizer, at the leading edge.

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure out 3/8" from the

centerline mark at the leading edge and draw a mark. Do this on both sides of the centerline mark, as shown.

❑ Slide the stabilizer into the mounting slot in the fuselage as far forward as possible and temporarily align it. Center

the stabilizer at the trailing edge by making sure that the inside edge of each elevator half is equal distance from the sides of the fuselage, then line up the two marks you drew on top of the leading edge with the sides of the fuselage at the front.

A=A-1

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, use a couple of push-

pins to hold only the trailing edge of the stabilizer aligned at this time.

If the stabilizer is hard to slide into place, very lightly sand

☞

the edges of the mounting slot. Be careful not to remove too much material, though. The stabilizer should fit snugly.

❑ Check to make sure that the tips of the stabilizer are equal

distances from the tips of the wing. To do this, use a ruler to measure from one wing tip to the stabilizer tip on the same side. Do this for both sides. Pivot the front of the stabilizer right or left until both of these measurements are the same.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, draw a couple of guide

marks on the stabilizer and use a couple of push-pins to hold the front of the stabilizer in position.

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Page 14

B = B-1

Step 4: Installing the Horizontal Stabilizer Assembly

❑ Now look carefully from the front of the fuselage at both

the wing and the stabilizer. When aligned properly, the stabilizer should be level with the wing. If it is not level, remove the stabilizer and use 220 grit sandpaper to carefully sand down the high side of the mounting slot until the correct alignment is achieved.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, use a pencil to draw

guide marks on both sides of the bottom of the stabilizer, at both the leading and trailing edges.

These marks will be used to realign the stabilizer when

☞

you glue it into place.

❑ Remove the stabilizer and mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy. Apply a generous amount to the gluing surfaces in

the stabilizer mounting slot. Make sure to cover the top and bottom of the slot, and the front of the slot, too.

IMPORTANT Do not apply epoxy to the rear portion of the slot. Apply epoxy only where the stabilizer assembly will be

glued into place.

❑ Slide the stabilizer assembly back into place and realign it. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and

rubbing alcohol, and hold the stabilizer in place using push-pins until the epoxy fully cures.

❑ After the epoxy fully cures, remove the push-pins and

carefully glue the piece of foam you removed previously back into the stabilizer mounting slot, using a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy.

IMPORTANT Do not push the piece of foam up against the

back of the elevator joiner wire. Make sure you leave enough room for the elevator joiner to pivot up and down - about a 1/8" - 3/16 gap.

❑ After the epoxy fully cures, carefully sand the piece of foam flush with the sides and back of the fuselage using 220 grit

sandpaper with a sanding block.

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Page 15

SECTION 8: RUDDER & TAIL WHEEL INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Rudder ❑ (1) Tail Wheel Bracket w/Wire ❑ (1) Plastic Tail Wheel

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ Lightweight Oil or Vaseline ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ 1/16" Drill Bit ❑ Ruler

Step 1: Hinging the Rudder

❑ Carefully epoxy the fiberglass dowel into the side of the rudder using the same techniques as with the stabilizer. After

the epoxy cures, apply the strip of red tape over the dowel and trim the edges flush using a modeling knife.

❑ (1) Plastic Tail Wheel Retainer ❑ (2) Nylon Hinges

❑ Pencil ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully

sand a shallow V-shaped bevel in the leading edge of the rudder.

This will allow right and left movement of the rudder while

☞

keeping the hinge gap to a minimum.

❑ Carefully hand-drill a 1/16" diameter hole into the rudder, for the hinges, 1/2" below the rudder counter-balance and

1/2" above the bottom of the rudder.

Be careful to drill the holes perpendicular to the leading edge and not at an angle. Also be careful that you don't drill

☞

out through the sides of the rudder.

❑ To prevent the epoxy from gluing the hinges solid, apply

a thin layer of lightweight oil or Vaseline to the pivot point of each hinge.

❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and glue the two

hinges into only the rudder. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up.

Push the hinges into the rudder far enough so that

☞

one-half of the pivot point is recessed into the leading edge.

❑ After the epoxy has set up, gently pivot the hinges back and forth several times to loosen the pivot points. ❑ Align the rudder with the back of the fuselage and carefully mark the locations of the two hinges onto the back of the

fuselage. When the rudder is aligned properly, there should be a 1/16" gap between the top of the fuselage and the base of the rudder counter-balance.

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Page 16

❑ Carefully hand-drill a 1/16" diameter hole into the back of the fuselage at each of the two marks you drew. ❑ Apply a thin layer of lightweight oil or Vaseline

❑ After the epoxy has set up, gently pivot the rudder back and forth several times to loosen the hinges' pivot points.

to the pivot point of each hinge.

❑ Hinge the rudder to the fuselage using 5 minute epoxy.

Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up.

When hinged properly, there should be little or no gap

☞

between the rudder hinge line and the fuselage, and there should be a 1/16" gap between the rudder counter-balance and the top of the fuselage.

Step 2: Installing the Tail Wheel Bracket

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a thin slot in the

bottom of the rudder, deep enough for the tail wheel tiller arm to be pushed down into.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, remove the tail wheel assembly and apply a couple of drops of lightweight oil or

Vaseline to only the pivot point of the tiller arm, to prevent epoxy from gluing the tail wheel wire to the plastic bracket.

❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and glue the tail wheel bracket to the bottom of the fuselage and the tiller arm into

the bottom of the rudder. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the assembly in place until the epoxy sets up.

❑ Slide the tail wheel onto the tail wheel wire. Using needle nose pliers, carefully squeeze the plastic tail wheel

retainer onto the wire to secure the tail wheel into place.

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❑ Place the tail wheel bracket onto the bottom of the

fuselage. To align the assembly, the tail wheel tiller arm should fit down into the slot you cut in the rudder, the pivot point of the tiller arm should be even with the rudder hinge line and the bracket should be centered in the middle of the fuselage.

You will need to cut a small notch in the leading edge of

☞

the rudder to clear the tiller arm boss on the tail wheel bracket.

Page 17

SECTION 9: MAIN LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Prebent Main Gear Wire ❑ (1) Nylon Main Gear Mounting Plate

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Pencil ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

Step 1: Installing the Main Gear Mounting Plate

❑ (2) Plastic Main Gear Wheels ❑ (2) Plastic Main Gear Wheel Retainers

❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Test-fit the main gear mounting plate onto the bottom of

the fuselage. To align it properly, the plate should be centered over the bottom of the fuselage and the back edge of the plate should be 1/16" in front of the seam line of the belly pan.

❑ While holding the mounting plate in place, use a pencil to

carefully draw an outline of the plate onto the fuselage.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut out enough foam from within the outline you drew to make a flat base for the

mounting plate to glue to. Don't cut the recess too deep. Only remove enough foam so that the entire bottom surface of the mounting plate sits flush with the fuselage. This will result in a much stronger glue joint.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper, lightly roughen the bottom of the mounting plate so that the epoxy will adhere to it better.

❑ Glue the mounting plate into place using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy using a

paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the mounting plate in place until the epoxy sets up.

Step 2: Installing the Main Gear Wire

❑ Slide one wheel onto each of the two axles. Using needle nose pliers, carefully squeeze one wheel retainer onto each

axle to secure the wheels into place.

❑ Carefully push the prebent loop in the landing gear wire

through the molded slot in the mounting plate.

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If you ever want to remove the landing gear, you can

☞

simply squeeze the prebent loop together and pull the wire from the mounting plate.

Page 18

SECTION 10: MOTOR/GEAR BOX INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) 370 Size Motor w/Ball Bearing Gear Box ❑ (2) M3 Flat Washers ❑ (3) M2.5 x 12 Wood Screws

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Scissors ❑ Electric or Hand Drill ❑ 1/16" & 5/16" Drill Bits

Step 1: Installing the Plastic Fuselage Top Deck

❑ (1) Molded Plastic Fuselage Top Deck ❑ (1) Plywood Motor Mounting Plate

❑ Pencil ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Using a pair of scissors and a modeling knife, carefully

cut out the plastic fuselage top deck along the molded scribe lines, as shown.

Make sure to cut out the two air-intake holes on each

☞

side of the forward area of the top deck, too.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully sand the edges of the top deck smooth and straight.

IMPORTANT The fuselage top deck is held in place using two strips of double-sided tape, which have been

preinstalled on the fuselage sides. It's not difficult to install the top deck, but it's important to take your time so you don't introduce any wrinkles or buckling in the top deck during installation. To align the fuselage top deck properly, the bottom edges of the top deck should be even with the bottom edges of the double-sided tape.

❑ Start installation of the fuselage top deck by first peeling

back about 1" of the protective backing from one strip of double-sided tape.

❑ Set the top deck into place, making sure that the front of

the top deck overlaps, and is firmly pushed against, the front of the fuselage. With the base of the top deck even with the bottom edge of the double-sided tape, adhere the forward section of the top deck into place, as shown.

❑ After adhering the first inch of the top deck into place, carefully pull another inch of protective backing from the double-

sided tape and carefully adhere that section of the top deck into place, making sure that the base of the top deck is even with the bottom of the double-sided tape. Do this until you have one side of the top deck completely adhered into place.

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Page 19

Step 2: Installing the Motor/Gear Box Assembly

❑ After you have adhered one side of the fuselage top deck

into place, use the same technique to adhere the other side into place, making sure that the base of the top deck is even with the bottom of the double-sided tape.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, lightly

sand the front of the fuselage to roughen the front of the plastic fuselage top deck.

❑ Test-fit the plywood motor mounting plate onto the front

of the fuselage. To align it properly, the top edge of the plate should be even with the top of the fuselage top deck and the contour of the motor plate should be centered with the contour of the fuselage.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, glue the motor mounting plate into place using a generous amount of 5 minute

epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the plate in place until the epoxy sets up.

❑ Using a 5/16" diameter drill bit, carefully hand-drill an

angled hole up through the front of the fuselage and into the fuselage deck area. Use the predrilled hole in the motor mounting plate as a guide.

❑ Slide the motor wires into the hole and push the gear box

assembly up against the motor mounting plate.

❑ To align the gear box assembly properly, the gear box

should be centered from side to side on the motor plate and the bottom of the gear box should be even with the bottom of the motor mounting plate.

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❑ When satisfied with the alignment, use a pencil to mark

the locations of the three mounting holes onto the motor plate.

Page 20

❑ Remove the gear box assembly and set it aside.

❑ Using a drill with a 1/16" diameter drill bit, drill pilot holes through the motor mounting plate at each of the three marks

you drew.

❑ Set the gear box assembly back into place and realign it. Install and tighten the three M2.5 x 1 wood screws to hold the

gear box assembly securely in place.

IMPORTANT When installing the gear box, install one M3 flat washer between the gear box and the motor plate

on the top two screws only. This will put about 1º of downthrust in the gear box and is required for the airplane to fly properly.

SECTION 11: CONTROL SYSTEMS INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ (4) Nylon Clevises ❑ (4) Nylon Adjustable Control Horns ❑ (2) Nylon Pushrod Supports ❑ (1) Elevator/Rudder Servo Mounting Board - 2 Parts ❑ (1) Aileron Servo Mounting Board - 2 Parts

❑ 1/16" Drill Bit ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

Step 1: Installing the Servo Mounting Board

❑ Repeat the procedures above to apply the second piece of elevator/rudder servo mounting board to the other side of

the fuselage.

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❑ Using the tip of your modeling knife, remove the die-cut

piece from inside each piece of elevator/rudder servo mounting board.

❑ Remove one piece of servo mounting board from the

protective backing and stick the board to the side of the fuselage, making sure that the cutout in the mounting board is aligned over the servo cutout in the side of the fuselage.

Page 21

❑ Use the same techniques to install the aileron servo

mounting board onto each side of the fuselage.

After installing the aileron servo mounting boards,

☞

carefully trim away the portion of the mounting boards that overlap onto the fuselage top deck, using a modeling knife.

Step 2: Installing the Elevator, Rudder & Aileron Servos

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto the elevator, rudder and aileron servo mounting lugs.

When installing the collets, make sure that the flanges are toward the bottom of the mounting lugs.

☞

❑ Test-fit one servo into each side of the fuselage. If the

servos are too large to fit, use a modeling knife to enlarge the holes to accommodate the servos. A precut hole is provided to run the servo leads into the cockpit area.

Both of the servos' output shafts should face toward the

☞

front of the fuselage.

❑ Mount the servos using the servo mounting screws provided with your servos. To make it easier to install the screws,

use the tip of your modeling knife to make small pilot holes in the servo mounting board.

❑ Install the two aileron servos using the same techniques.

Again, a precut hole is provided to run the servo leads into the cockpit area.

Both of the servos' output shafts should face toward the

☞

front of the fuselage.

Step 3: Installing the Elevator Pushrod Assembly

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure out 3/8" from the side of the fuselage (at the elevator hinge line) and draw a mark

on the bottom of only one elevator half.

This mark is how far out the control horn should be installed on the elevator.

☞

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Page 22

❑ Install one control horn assembly onto the elevator,

aligning the center of the control horn with the mark you drew and making sure that the front of the control horn mounting plates are 1/8" behind the hinge line.

IMPORTANT Install the control horn from the bottom of the

elevator so that the long machine screw comes out on top of the elevator.

Don't overtighten the machine screws. You want to hold the control horn firmly in place, but you don't want to crush

☞

the foam.

❑ Thread one nylon clevis onto one of the M1.5 x 400 threaded pushrod wires. Thread the clevis on far enough to leave

room for adjustments later.

❑ Carefully thread one nylon adjustable control horn onto

the long machine screw until the top of the control horn is even with the top of the screw, then snap the clevis into the control horn.

The notch in the control horn should be up, as shown.

☞

IMPORTANT Hold the machine screw in place using

needle nose pliers while threading the adjustable control horn into place.

❑ Place a "single arm" servo horn onto the elevator servo, making sure that the servo horn is centered and points up

toward the top of the fuselage. The arm should have at least three holes in it.

❑ Plug the elevator servo lead into its proper slot in your receiver. Plug the ESC lead into your receiver and plug the flight

battery into your ESC . Turn on your radio system and center the servo using the elevator trim lever on your transmitter.

WARNING Before continuing, slide one nylon pushrod support over the plain end of the pushrod wire.

❑ With both the servo horn and the elevator centered, use

a pencil to draw a mark on the pushrod wire where it crosses the hole that is 1/2" out from the center of the servo horn.

If you're using Cirrus CS-10 servos this will be the third

☞

hole in the servo arm.

❑ Using Magnum Z-Bend Pliers, make a Z-Bend in the pushrod wire at the mark you drew and use wire cutters to

remove the excess wire.

❑ Remove the servo horn. Using a 1/16" drill bit, enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 1/2" out from the center of the

servo horn.

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Page 23

❑ Attach the servo horn to the Z-Bend, then attach the servo

horn to the servo, making sure it's centered.

❑ Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw, provided

with your servo, to secure the servo horn into place.

❑ Center the nylon pushrod support along the length of the

pushrod wire, cut a shallow slot in the fuselage side using a modeling knife, then glue the support into the slot using 5 minute epoxy.

WARNING Make sure not to get any epoxy between the

pushrod wire and the nylon support.

After installing the nylon support, the pushrod will be

☞

bowed in toward the fuselage side. This is normal and will not cause any problem.

❑ Double-check that the elevator is still centered. If it is out of adjustment, remove the clevis and readjust it until you are

satisfied with the alignment. Reinstall the clevis and unplug and turn off your radio system.

Step 4: Installing the Rudder & Aileron Pushrod Assemblies

❑ The rudder pushrod assembly is installed exactly like the

elevator pushrod assembly.

IMPORTANT The rudder control horn should be installed

1/4" below the base of the rudder counter-balance. Again, make sure that the front of the control horn mounting plates are 1/8" behind the hinge line.

❑ The aileron pushrod assemblies are installed exactly like

the elevator and rudder pushrod assemblies.

IMPORTANT The aileron control horns should be installed

3/8" out from the inside edge of the ailerons and the front of the control horn mounting plates should be 1/8" behind the hinge line.

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Page 24

SECTION 12: FINAL ASSEMBLY

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Nylon Propeller ❑ (1) Spinner Assembly - Front & Back ❑ (2) M3 Hex Nuts ❑ (1) Molded Plastic Cowling ❑ (1) Molded Clear Canopy

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Adjustable Wrench ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

Step 1: Installing the Cowling, Propeller & Spinner Assembly

❑ (4) M2 x 5 Wood Screws ❑ (1) Double-Sided Tape ❑ (1) Velcro ❑ (1) Decal Set

❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron ❑ Heat-Shrink Tubing (Assorted Sizes) ❑ Solder

❑ Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut away and remove

the molded radius from the back edge of the cowling.

Mounting Material

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut out the three air-

intake holes on each side of the cowling, then cut away the molded radius on the front of the cowling to clear the gear box assembly.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully sand the back edge of the cowling smooth and straight.

❑ Slide the cowling over the gear box assembly and onto the fuselage.

❑ Carefully adjust the cowling so that the front of the cowling is 1/16" behind, and centered around, the front of

the gear box.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, install and tighten two

M2 x 5 wood screws (one on each side), threaded through the cowling and into the plastic fuselage top deck, to hold the cowling in place.

Use the tip of your modeling knife to make small pilot

☞

holes in the cowling and top deck.

❑ Thread one M3 hex nut onto the propeller shaft and finger-tighten it until it will not thread on any further.

❑ Slide the propeller onto the propeller shaft, making sure that the back of the propeller slides firmly over the hex nut.

The back of the propeller is molded to fit over the hex nut.

☞

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Page 25

❑ Slide the back half of the spinner assembly onto the

propeller shaft and up against the propeller.

IMPORTANT You will need to enlarge the two cutouts in the

spinner so the edges of the spinner don't touch the propeller.

❑ Install and tighten the second M3 hex nut, using an

adjustable wrench, to hold the propeller and spinner in place.

❑ Firmly press the spinner cone onto the back half of the spinner assembly until it snaps into place.

When necessary, the spinner cone can be removed using a small flat blade screwdriver.

☞

Step 2: Installing the Receiver

The locations of the radio equipment shown in the next few steps is only approximate. This is how our test airplanes were set up. The locations of your radio equipment could differ and should be dependent on what type of equipment you use and where you balance your airplane. Balancing will be done in the next section.

❑ Plug the elevator and rudder servo leads into their proper slots in the receiver.

❑ Plug the two aileron servo leads into a Y-harness, then plug the Y-harness into its proper slot in the receiver.

IMPORTANT If you're using a computer radio with mixing capabilities, and are also using a receiver that supports mixing

functions, we suggest plugging one aileron servo lead into channel number 1 and the second aileron servo lead into channel number 6. This will allow both ailerons to operate normally without using a Y-Harness and also allow you to mix both ailerons together for spoileron, flaperon and elevator/aileron mixing.

❑ Mount the receiver on top of the plastic fuselage top deck

using a small piece of double-sided tape. Any extra amount of servo leads can be pushed up underneath the top deck to clean up the installation.

Mount the receiver on its side so it doesn't interfere with

☞

the canopy when it's installed later. We also installed the receiver more toward one side of the top deck so that the servo leads would not make the side of the canopy bulge out.

❑ Uncoil the receiver antenna and run it down one side of the fuselage. Secure the antenna to the back of the fuselage

using a small piece of clear tape. We don't suggest running the antenna next to the elevator or rudder pushrod wire.

Step 3: Installing the Electronic Speed Control

❑ Carefully solder the motor wires to your ESC, being careful that the polarity is correct.

Make sure to use heat-shrink tubing to insulate the solder joints.

☞

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Page 26

❑ Mount the ESC to the foam area in front of the receiver.

Use a small piece of double-sided tape to hold it in place.

Notice how we cut out a portion of the top deck to allow the

☞

battery wires to exit. This allows you to mount the receiver back more, so it doesn't interfere with battery installation and removal, and it also reduces the stress on the battery wires.

❑ If your ESC has an on/off switch, mount it to the fuselage top deck, next to the ESC. We used a small piece of double-

sided tape to hold our switch in place.

Step 4: Installing the Flight Battery

Step 5: Installing the Canopy

❑ Cut a small piece of Velcro

the bottom end of the flight battery, as shown.

IMPORTANT Install the Velcro

that the wires come out.

❑ Slide the flight battery into place under the plastic top

deck, making sure that the motor wires do not interfere with the battery. You should be able to push the battery forward until it touches the front of the fuselage.

❑ After finding the final location of the flight battery when

balancing the airplane, apply the remaining half of the Velcro piece onto the fuselage to hold the battery in place.

and stick one half of it onto

on the end of the battery

❑ Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the clear canopy along the molded scribe lines.

❑ Use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to sand the edges of the canopy smooth and straight.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut out the air-exit holes in the canopy, using the molded scribe lines as a guide. One

hole is located on each side of the canopy, near the front.

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Page 27

Before installing our canopy, we painted it silver to hide the electronics and make the installation look cleaner.

☞

❑ Set the canopy into place and align it with the molded

ridge in the fuselage top deck.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, install and tighten two

M2 x 5 wood screws, threaded through the canopy and into the side of the top deck, to hold the canopy in place.

Use the tip of your modeling knife to make small pilot

☞

holes in the canopy and top deck.

SECTION 13: BALANCING THE LIVE WIRE EP

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Ruler

❑ Pencil

IMPORTANT It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly. Improper balance will cause your airplane to lose

control and crash!

Center of Gravity Location:

3-1/8" to 3-1/2" back from the leading edge of the wing, measured at the fuselage sides.

WARNING This is the recommended C.G. range. For test-flying we suggest you start with the C.G. in the middle of the

range (3-5/16), then move it farther back as you become familiar with the flying characteristics of the airplane. It is not recommended that the C.G. be located any farther back than 3-1/2".

IMPORTANT As you move the C.G. farther aft, the airplane will become more responsive, especially in pitch. Do not start

to move the C.G. back until you are comfortable with the flight characteristics of the airplane.

Balance the Live Wire EP with the flight battery installed.

☞

❑ Measure and draw two marks on the top of the wing, 3-5/16" back from the leading edge, measured at the

fuselage sides.

❑ Turn the airplane upside down, place your fingers on the marks, and carefully lift the airplane. If the nose of the

airplane falls, the airplane is nose heavy. To correct this, move the flight battery back far enough to bring the airplane into balance. If the tail of the airplane falls, the airplane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the flight battery forward enough to bring the airplane into balance. When balanced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers at the C.G. location.

Once you have flown and become familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, the C.G. can be moved forward

☞

or aft up to 3/16" in each direction to change the flight performance. Moving the C.G. back will cause the airplane to be more responsive, but less stable. Moving the C.G. forward will cause the airplane to be less responsive, but more stable.

Do not fly the airplane beyond the recommended balance range or an uncontrollable crash could result!

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Page 28

SECTION 14: LATERAL BALANCING THE LIVE WIRE EP

Lateral balancing will make the airplane easier to trim and will make it track straighter in the air. It is highly recommended.

❑ Turn the airplane upside down and tie one length of string to the propeller shaft and one length of string to the tail

wheel wire.

❑ Carefully lift the airplane up by the two pieces of string. Watch how the wing reacts. If one side of the wing drops, that

side is heavier than the other. To correct this, push a small brad or nail into the tip of the lighter wing half.

❑ Lift the airplane up by the pieces of string a couple of more times to double-check your findings. When done properly

the wing should stay level consistently when you lift the airplane up by the pieces of string.

SECTION 15: CONTROL THROWS

We recommend setting up the Live Wire EP using the control throws listed below. These control throws are suggested for initial test-flying because they will allow the airplane to fly smoother and make it easier to control.

TEST-FLYING

Ailerons: 3/8" Up 3/8" Down

Elevator: 1/2" Up 1/2" Down

Rudder: 3/4" Right 3/4" Left

When measuring the control throws, measure from the widest point of the control surfaces.

☞

Once you're familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, you might want to increase the control throws to the sportflying settings listed below. These control throws will make the airplane more responsive and allow you to do most aerobatics with ease.

SPORT-FLYING

Ailerons: 1/2" Up 1/2" Down

Elevator: 3/4" Up 3/4" Down

Rudder: 1" Right 1" Left

If you're using a computer radio system and want to set up your

Live Wire EP to use mixing, check out the Computer Radio Setup

section on the next page. We still recommend setting the

control throws to the Test-Flying settings shown above

until after your first few test flights.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to [email protected]

Page 29

SECTION 16: COMPUTER RADIO SETUP

Although you don't have to use a computer radio to enjoy the flying qualities of the Live Wire EP, if you're planning on doing extreme aerobatics, it is recommended. Before making any adjustments, please read and understand your radio's setup manual.

Chances are that if you want to set up your Live Wire EP with a computer radio to take advantage of mixing capabilities, you probably want an extreme flying machine. In that case, use the Aerobatic Flying control throws listed below.

AEROBATIC FLYING CONTROL SURFACE THROWS

Ailerons: 3/4" Up 3/4" Down

Elevator: 1" Up 1" Down

Rudder: 1-1/2" Right 1-1/2" Left

The Aerobatic Flying control surface throws are our preferences. The airplane flies very well using them; however, these

☞

recommendations are not set in stone. Feel free to make adjustments to suit your flying style. Have fun experimenting, but remember, as you continue to increase the control throws, the airplane becomes extremely responsive!

EXPONENTIAL:

Expo, as it's more commonly referred to, softens the control feel around neutral. This is especially helpful when flying an airplane that uses a lot of control throw. Softening the neutral point makes the airplane fly more smoothly and makes it more likely that you won't over-control. Obviously, you may want to change the expo settings to suit your flying style, but here are some good starting points:

SPORT FLYING AEROBATIC FLYING

Elevator: 30% 60%

Ailerons: 35% 50%

Rudder: 25% 50%

FLAPERON AND SPOILERON MIXING:

Plugging the servos separately into the receiver (one into channel 1 and one into channel 6) will allow the use of flaperons (both ailerons down at the same time) and spoilerons (both ailerons up at the same time). These functions can then be mixed with the elevator for extreme pitch changes useful in more extreme aerobatic maneuvers.

Elevator: 1" Up and Spoilerons (up) 1/4"

Elevator: 1" Down and Flaperons (down) 1/4"

IMPORTANT Use of more than 1/4" of flaperons and spoilerons will cause excessive drag, negating any of their useful

effects. We do not recommend using flaperon and spoileron to elevator mixing during general sport flying, especially during takeoff and landing.

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

Page 30

SECTION 17: PREFLIGHT CHECK & SAFETY

●

Check the operation of the throttle. To do this, do the following:

A) Plug the flight battery into the ESC and turn on the radio system.

WARNING Do not turn the receiver on unless the transmitter is turned on first. Always turn the transmitter on first.

Never allow hands or clothing to get in the way of the propeller when the radio is turned on. Sudden unwanted radio signals, or turning the radio on with the throttle stick set at full throttle, can turn the motor on unintentionally. Always make sure that the throttle control stick is set to idle before turning on the transmitter.

B) When the throttle control stick is at the idle position, the motor should be off. Moving the stick forward should turn on the motor. Gradually moving the stick to the full forward position should result in the motor running at full power.

Some ESCs will give you more proportional control than others. Your ESC may also have a manual control

☞

adjustment screw that must be adjusted prior to using the ESC. (Refer to your ESC's operating guide for further information.)

●

Cycle the flight battery three times. When NiMH batteries are new they need to be used 2-3 times before they will produce their top voltage and duration. To cycle them, simply charge the battery and then run the motor (at low speed to prevent damaging it) until the motor stops. Allow the battery and motor to cool, then repeat this procedure two more times.

●

Check the condition of the transmitter batteries. They should be fully charged.

●

Check every bolt and every glue joint in the airplane to ensure that everything is tight and well-bonded.

●

Double-check that all of the control horn screws are tight.

●

Double-check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the flight battery installed.

●

Check the control surfaces. They should all move in the correct direction and not bind.

●

If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches, double-check that they are on the low-rate setting for

your first few flights.

●

Check to ensure that all of the control surfaces are moving the proper amount in both low and high rate settings.

●

Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up.

●

Do not test-fly your model for the first time without first having it safety-checked by an experienced modeler.

●

Do not fly your model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without having an observer

with you. The observer should tell you about any full-size aircraft in your vicinity and you should always give the

right-of-way to full-scale aircraft.

●

When flying at a flying field with established rules, you should abide by those rules. You should not deliberately fly

your model in a reckless and/or dangerous manner.

●

While flying, you should not deliberately fly behind the flight line. If your model should inadvertently fly behind the

flight line, you should change course immediately.

●

You should complete a successful range check of your radio equipment prior to each new day of flying, or prior to

the first flight of a new or repaired model.

●

You should perform your initial turn after take- off away from the flightline and/or spectator area.

●

You should not knowingly operate your R/C radio system within 3 miles of a preexisting model club flying field

without a frequency sharing agreement with that club.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

Page 31

SECTION 18: FLYING THE LIVE WIRE EP

The Live Wire EP can take off from the ground or be hand-launched. We recommend ground take-offs only from hard, smooth surfaces or very short grass.

Taking Off from the Ground

With the airplane pointing into the wind, apply full power and feed in right rudder to keep the airplane tracking straight as it rolls down the runway. Once sufficient airspeed has been reached, gently apply up elevator to lift the airplane off the ground. Climb out straight ahead in a shallow climb to build up speed. Do not make any steep turns right after take-off or you may stall the airplane.

Hand-Launching

Hand-Launching should always be done into the wind.

To hand-launch the airplane, gently grasp the belly pan at the C.G. location using your thumb and forefingers. Hold the airplane above shoulder level and turn on the motor to full power. With the motor running at full power, firmly throw the airplane straight ahead and level. Do not throw it up at an angle or throw it too hard or out of control. Let the airplane fly straight and level to pick up airspeed, then climb to your desired altitude. Be careful not to climb too steeply after handlaunching or you could stall the airplane.

In the Air

In the air the Live Wire EP is smooth and predictable. At full power, the motor and gear box produce enough torque to pull the airplane through just about any maneuver you want. You'll find that the airplane is responsive to control inputs and handles light winds with ease. When trimmed and set up properly, the Live Wire EP goes where you put it and tracks like it's on rails. With the C.G. set toward the back of the range, snap rolls are crisp and very little elevator input is necessary for inverted flight. And because of the generous fuselage side area and highly effective rudder, knife edge flight is very easy. All this results in an airplane that's easier to fly during more difficult maneuvers like 4-point rolls, rolling circles and slow rolls, and more extreme 3D style aerobatics.

Landing

Landings should always be done into the wind.

Prepare for landing by reducing power and making a shallow turn into the wind. With the airplane on final approach it will begin to slow down and descend. With the airplane descending, apply small amounts of up elevator to slow the airplane's speed. Just before touch-down, turn the motor off and let the airplane settle near the ground. Flair just before touch-down and you will be rewarded with a soft landing. As always, when landing, be careful not to over-control. Over-controlling leads to excessive oscillations which don't make for good landings. Because the Live Wire EP is light and aerodynamically clean, its glide ratio will be higher than what you might expect. For the first couple of landing approaches we suggest that you give the airplane a little more room than normal until you get used to the long glide path to touchdown.

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

Page 32

SECTION 19: TRIM CHART

After you have test-flown and done the initial trim changes to the aircraft, use the Trim Chart below to begin trimming your airplane. Following and adhering to this chart will result in the ability to diagnose trim problems and correct those problems using the simple adjustments shown below. Making these observations and related corrections will result in a straighter and truer flying airplane.

TRIM FEATURE MANEUVER OBSERVATION CORRECTION

Control Centering

Control Throws Fly random maneuvers A) Too sensitive, jerky controls

Motor Thrust Angle* From straight and level flight,

Center of Gravity and Longitudinal Balance

Yaw** Into the wind, do inside loops

Fly general circles and random maneuvers

chop the throttle quickly

From level flight, roll to a 45º bank and neutralize the controls

using only elevator. Repeat test doing outside loops from an inverted entry.

Try for hands-off, straight and level flight Readjust control linkages so the

B) Not sufficient control

A) Airplane continues in a level path for a

short distance

B) Airplane pitches nose up

C) Airplane pitches nose down

A) Airplane continues in the bank for a

moderate distance

B) The nose of the airplane pitches up

C) The nose of the airplane drops

A) Wing is level throughout

B) Yaws to right in both inside and outside

loops

C) Yaws to left in both inside and outside

loops

D) Yaws to right in inside loops and yaws

to left in outside loops

E) Yaws to left in inside loops and yaws to

right in outside loops

transmitter trim levers are centered

If A) Adjust linkages to reduce control

throws

If B) Adjust linkages to increase control

throws

If A) Engine thrust angle is correct

If B) Decrease down-thrust

If C) Increase down-thrust

If A) Trim settings are good

If B) Add nose weight

If C) Remove nose weight

If A) Trim settings are good

If B) Add left rudder trim

If C) Add right rudder trim

If D) Add left aileron trim

If E) Add right aileron trim

Lateral Balance Into the wind, do tight inside

Aileron Rigging With the wing level, pull to a

*Motor thrust angle and center of gravity interact. Check both.

**Yaw and lateral balance produce similar symptoms. Make certain both elevator halves are even with each other and that they both produce the same

amount of control deflection throughout the complete deflection range. Right and left references are as if you were in the cockpit.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

loops

vertical climb and neutralize the controls

A) Wing is level and plane falls to either

side

B) Plane falls off to the left in loops.

Worsens as loops tighten

C) Plane falls off to the right in loops.

Worsens as loops tighten

A) Climb continues along the same path

B) Nose tends to go toward an inside loop

C) Nose tends to go toward an outside

loop

If A) Trim settings are good

If B) Add weight to right wing tip

If C) Add weight to left wing tip

If A) Trim settings are good

If B) Raise both ailerons very slightly

If C) Lower both ailerons very slightly

Page 33

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Page 34

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

Page 35

PRODUCT EVALUATION SHEET

Telling us what you like and don't like determines what model kits we make and how we make them. We would appreciate it if you would take a few minutes of your time to answer the following questions about this kit and your modeling interests. Simply fold this form on the dotted lines, seal with tape and mail it to us. Do not use staples and make sure our address faces out.

Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,

trade, or rent your personal information to others. Your privacy is important to us.

1) Kit: Wattage Live Wire EP # 128435

2) Where did you learn about this kit?

❑ Magazine Ads ❑ Friend ❑ Hobby Shop ❑ Other ❑ Internet

3) What influenced you the most to buy this kit?

❑ Magazine Ads ❑ Price ❑ Type of Model ❑ Box Art ❑ Recommendation ❑ Other ❑ Internet

4) Did you have any trouble understanding the written instructions? If yes, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

5) Did you have any trouble understanding any of the photographs? If yes, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

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6) Were any of the kit parts:

❑ Damaged ❑ Wrong Size ❑ Missing ❑ Wrong Shape

If you checked any of the boxes above, did you contact our Customer Service Department to resolve the problem?

❑ Yes ❑ No

7) Was any of the assembly difficult for you? If yes, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

8) What did you like most about this kit?

❑ Assembly Manual ❑ Parts Fit ❑ Hardware Supplied ❑ Price ❑ Other

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

9) What did you like least about this kit?

❑ Assembly Manual ❑ Parts Fit ❑ Hardware Supplied ❑ Price ❑ Other

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

10) Are you satisfied with the finished model? If no, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

11) How does this kit compare to similar kits by other manufacturers?

❑ Better ❑ As Good

What is Your Age Group:

❑ 10 & Under ❑ 11 - 20 ❑ 21 - 30 ❑ 31 - 40 ❑ 41 - 50 ❑ 51 - 60 ❑ 61 - 70 ❑ 71 +

How Many Years Have You Been in the Hobby?

❑ Less than 1 ❑ 2 - 4 ❑ 5 - 7 ❑ 8 - 10 ❑ 11 - 15 ❑ 16 - 20 ❑ 20 or More

How Many Models Have You Purchased In the Last Year?

❑ 0 - 1 ❑ 2 - 4 ❑ 5 - 7 ❑ 8 - 10 ❑ 10 or More

Please List any Other Modeling Interests or any Additional Information about This Product: ______________________

_____________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________

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Page 36

_____________________________ _____________________________ _____________________________

(Return Address Here)

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Global Hobby Distributors

Attn: Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle Fountain Valley CA 92728-8610

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without proper

postage

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net