WattAge Crazy MAX EP Instructions For Final Assembly

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Specifications:

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Wing Span: 35 inches

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Wing Area: 284 square inches

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Length: 26 inches

● Weight: 12 - 13 ounces Ready to Fly

Kit Product Number 128432

FOR YOUR INFORMATION

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. If there is no hobby shop in your area, we recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to help you locate a flying field near you.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie IN 47302-9252

www.modelaircraft.org

The Wattage Crazy Max EP is distributed exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors 18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92728

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

● Motor: 370 Electric with Gear Box & Propeller

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Functions: Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder & Throttle

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Radio: 4 or More Channel Micro System

(800) 435-9262

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Safety Warning..........................................................................................................2

Introduction ...............................................................................................................3

Our Recommendations.............................................................................................. 4

Kit Contents...............................................................................................................5

Replacement Parts.....................................................................................................6

Tools and Supplies Required ....................................................................................7

Metric Conversion Chart...........................................................................................7

Section 1: Fuselage Assembly ..........................................................................8

Section 2: Horizontal Stabilizer......................................................................1 0

Section 3: Vertical Stabilizer...........................................................................13

Section 4: Motor and Gear Box Installation...................................................15

Section 5: Elevator and Rudder Pushrod Installation 17

Section 6: Wing Assembly..............................................................................19

Section 7: Aileron Pushrod Installation..........................................................22

Section 8: Wing Mounting..............................................................................26

Section 9: Final Assembly ..............................................................................27

Section 10: Balancing the Crazy Max EP......................................................30

Section 11: Lateral Balancing ........................................................................31

Section 12: Control Throws ...........................................................................3 1

Section 13: Computer Radio Setup ................................................................31

Section 14: Preflight Check and Safety .........................................................32

Section 15: Flying the Crazy Max EP............................................................34

Product Evaluation Sheet........................................................................................35

SAFETY WARNING

This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. W e suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control system and any other components purchased separately.

OUR GUARANTEE:

W attage guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Wattage's liability exceed

the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Wattage has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final userassembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

INTRODUCTION Thank you for purchasing the new Wattage Crazy Max EP. Before completing the final

assembly of your new airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure success the first time around!

Wattage Crazy Max EP Features:

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Compact, Lightweight Design for Small Field Flying

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Fully Symmetrical Wing for Exciting Flight Characteristics

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Large Control Surfaces for Extreme Aerobatics

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Optional Dual Aileron Servos Allows Mixing Capabilities

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Fiberglass Stabilizer Spar to Prevent Twisting and Flutter

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Powerful 370 Electric Motor with Gear Box and Propeller Included

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Includes Hardware for Dual or Single Aileron Servo Setups

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Colorful Decal Sheet Enhances Appearance

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All Hardware Included

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Quick & Easy Assembly - Over 50 Photos & Drawings Included

This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new airplane in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before beginning assembly.

The Crazy Max EP is constructed of Closed Cell Foam. It is very important that you use no solvents, Cyanoacrylate (C/A) glue, or paint that can damage foam. If any of these chemicals comes in contact with the foam parts, the parts will be destroyed and will not be covered under warranty. Use only epoxy where glue is required. If you decide to paint the foam parts, use an acrylic paint that will not attack foam and always test on a scrap piece first.

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Please read through each step before beginning

assembly. You should find the layout very complete

●

Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put

the small parts in after you open the accessory bags. and straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through assembly without any of the headaches and hassles that you might expect.

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W e're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but take your time. This will ensure you build a straight, strong and great flying airplane.

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There are check boxes next to each step. After you complete a step, check off the box. This will help prevent you from losing your place.

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Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft

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If you come across this symbol ☛, it means that

this is an important point or an assembly hint.

cloth, both to protect the table and to protect the parts.

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 E-mail: service@globalhobby.net

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

Wattage Customer Service

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92728

OUR RECOMMENDA TIONS

This section lists the items you will need to purchase for your new Crazy Max EP. These suggestions are not set in stone, but they will provide you with a good, proven starting point.

IMPORTANT - PLEASE READ

The Wattage Crazy Max EP is a high-performance, aerobatic electric-powered model. When choosing accessories like servos, ESC, and receiver, it's very important to take the weight of these items into consideration. Remember , the lighter the overall weight of the finished airplane, the better the airplane will perform.

Servos

The servos you use should be the lightest available, yet still have an adequate amount of torque. We suggest using servos that weigh no more than 0.19 ounces and have a torque rating of no less than 7.0 ounces per square inch.

Receiver

The receiver should be as light as possible, preferably 1/2oz. or less. Most four channel micro receivers will be a good choice. If you plan on using the Hitec 555 Micro receiver, we suggest removing the case to reduce the receiver's weight. If you do remove the case from your receiver we strongly suggest wrapping the receiver with heat-shrink material to protect the internal components.

Special Note for Receiver:

If you plan on using two separate aileron servos so you can have mixing capabilities, make sure the receiver you choose supports the mixing capabilities of your transmitter. Most 4 channel receivers don't, so you'll have to use a six or more channel receiver. If it has a case, remove it to save weight.

Electronic Speed Control

The ESC you choose should be capable of handling no less than 15 amps continuous current. Again, lighter is better. Your ESC should weigh no more than 1 ounce including the wiring and switch.

Special Note for ESC

Most 15amp ESCs don't support the use of more than three servos. If you use four servos in your Crazy Max you should use a 30amp ESC. The added weight will be minimal.

Flight Battery

For the best flight performance the battery used should be an 8 cell 800Mah 5/4AAA NiMH pack. You can use NiCD batteries but they are heavier and you won't get as long a flight time. NiMH batteries don't give quite as much power, but still plenty for the Crazy Max and, most importantly, they are lighter and give significantly more flight time.

For General Sport Flying We Recommend:

Cirrus MRX-4 Micro Receiver

Hitec Single Conversion RX Crystal P/N 444052 Cirrus CS-10 Micro Servos (3) P/N 128484 Wattage IC-15A ESC P/N 128538 Wattage 8 Cell 800Mah NiMH Flight Battery P/N 130103 Wattage 7-8 Cell 1 amp AC/DC Peak Charger

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

For Aerobatic Flying with Mixing Capability We Recommend:

Hitec 8 Channel Super-Slim Receiver (remove case for lighter weight)

Hitec Dual Conversion RX Crystal P/N 444052 Cirrus CS-10 Micro Servos (4) P/N 128486 Wattage IC-30A ESC P/N 128538 Wattage 8 Cell 800Mah NiMH Flight Battery P/N 130103 Wattage 7-8 Cell 1 amp AC/DC Peak Charger

IMPORTANT

The part numbers listed for the Cirrus servos and Wattage ESCs are compatible with Hitec and JR receivers. These items are also available with connectors that are compatible with Futaba and Airtronics receivers.

When you purchase a Hitec receiver, you must also purchase the Hitec brand crystal compatible with the receiver. The crystal must also be on the same frequency as your transmitter. Note that the Cirrus MRX-4 Micro Receiver uses a single conversion Hitec crystal. A dual conversion crystal will not work with it.

KIT CONTENTS

We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin assembly, group the parts like we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly and it will also help you become familiar with each part. If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact us below:

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 E-mail: service@globalhobby.net

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

❑ {1} Fuselage w/Plywood Motor Mount ❑ {1} Left Wing Panel ❑ {1} Right Wing Panel ❑ {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator ❑ {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder ❑ {2} Sheet-Foam Ailerons

LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY

❑ {1} Prebent Main Gear Wire ❑ {2} Main Gear Wheels ❑ {2} Nylon Wheel Retainers

Wattage Customer Service

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92728

MOTOR ASSEMBLY

❑ {1} 370 Motor w/Gear Box ❑ {1} 7.5 x 5 Propeller ❑ {1} 3mm Flat Washer ❑ {2} 3mm Hex Nuts ❑ {3} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws

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Kit Contents Continued on Next Page

WING MOUNTING ASSEMBLIES

PUSHROD ASSEMBLIES

❑ {1} Molded Plastic Wing Mount ❑ {1} 3mm x 60mm Wood Dowel ❑ {1} 3mm x 70mm Wood Dowel ❑ {1} Wing Reinforcement Board - 2 Parts ❑ {2} 180mm Long Adhesive Strips

❑ {2} 1.5mm x 400mm Threaded Pushrod Wires ❑ {2} 1.5mm x 150mm Threaded Pushrod Wires ❑ {4} Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates ❑ {4} Nylon Clevises ❑ {1} Aileron Servo Mounting Board - 2 Parts

❑ {2} Rubber Bands

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

❑ {1} Fiberglass Reinforcement Spar ❑ {1} Prebent Elevator Joiner Wire ❑ {1} Elevator Reinforcement Board - 2 Parts ❑ {2} 430mm Long Adhesive Strips

❑ {1} 37mm x 50mm Sheet-Foam ❑ {1} Fuselage Reinforcement Board ❑ {1} Decal Sheet ❑ {1} Double-Sided Tape

WARNING We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in

direct sunlight) for any length of time. The extreme heat could cause the foam to melt and possibly damage the fragile components of the radio system, ESC or batteries.

REPLACEMENT P ARTS

W attage stocks a complete line of replacement parts for your Crazy Max EP. Listed below are the replacement parts that are available along with their respective part numbers for easy ordering convenience. We suggest ordering directly from your local dealer. If your dealer does not stock Wattage products, you can order directly from us at the address shown below:

Global Hobby Distributors

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92728

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236

Instruction Manual - 145340 Wing Set - 145341 Fuselage Set - 145342 Stabilizer Set - 145343 Control Linkage Set - 145344 Decal Set - 145345

Motor, Gearbox & Propeller - 145346 Landing Gear Set - 145336 370 Electric Motor - 131350 Gear Box Assembly - 131371 Spur Gear & Pinion Set - 131376

7.5 x 5 Propeller - 131381

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560 ❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers # 237473 ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Adjustable Wrench ❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692801 ❑ Scissors ❑ Electric Drill ❑ Assorted Drill Bits ❑ Ruler

IMPORTANT

The soldering iron and solder listed above are optional. Depending on the ESC and flight battery you have chosen to use, they may not have plugs that are compatible with the plug that comes preinstalled on the motor. If this is the case you will need to solder a compatible plug onto the motor or, better yet, solder the ESC leads directly to the motor.

❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Builder's Triangle ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204 ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205 ❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron # 598120 ❑ Kester Solder # 398505 ❑ Hair Dryer

WARNING

The Crazy Max EP is constructed of Closed Cell Foam. It is very important that you use no solvents, Cyanoacrylate (C/A) glue, or paint that can damage foam. If any of these chemicals comes in contact with the foam parts, the parts will be destroyed and will not be covered under warranty. Use only epoxy where glue is required. If you decide to add painted details to the Crazy Max, use acrylic-based paints and always test the paint on a scrap piece first.

METRIC CONVERSION CHART

To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = mm

1/64" = .4mm 1/32" = .8mm 1/16" = 1.6mm 3/32" = 2.4mm 1/8" = 3.2mm 5/32" = 4.0mm

3/16" = 4.8mm 1/4" = 6.4mm 3/8" = 9.5mm 1/2" = 12.7mm 5/8" = 15.9mm 3/4" = 19.0mm

1" = 25.4mm 2" = 50.8mm 3" = 76.2mm 6" = 152.4mm 12" = 304.8mm 18" = 457.2mm

21" = 533.4mm 24" = 609.6mm 30" = 762.0mm 36" = 914.4mm

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

SECTION 1: FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ {1} Fuselage w/Plywood Motor Mount ❑ {1} 3mm x 60mm Wood Dowel ❑ {1} 3mm x 70mm Wood Dowel

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Scissors ❑ 1/8" Drill Bit ❑ Ruler

Step 1: Installing the Truss Decal

❑ {1} Fuselage Reinforcement Board ❑ {1} Decal Sheet

❑ Pencil ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Using a pair of scissors, cut out the fuselage truss decal

along its outer edges.

Rub the decal down completely to remove any air bubbles or wrinkles, and to make sure that the decal is stuck firmly

☛

in place.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

❑ Carefully apply the decal to the fuselage, making sure that the alignment marks at both the front and the back of the decal line up with the edges of the fuselage.

IMPORTANT

The back edge of the decal should be 2-1/2" in front of the back edge of the fuselage.

Step 2: Installing the Fuselage Reinforcement Board

❑ Using the tip of your modeling knife, carefully remove the die-cut pieces out of both the middle and the outer edges of the fuselage reinforcement board.

❑ Carefully bend each side of the reinforcement board down at a 90º angle along the two scribe lines.

❑ Remove the protective backing from the reinforcement board.

❑ Carefully adhere the reinforcement board to the fuselage. To align it properly, the front edge of the board should be even with the back of the plywood motor mount and the sides of the board should follow the sides of the fuselage.

Step 3: Installing the Wing Hold-Down Dowels

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❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away and remove the foam from within the three cutouts in the reinforcement board.

❑ Using a 1/8" drill bit, drill four holes through the fuselage sides using the die-cut holes in the sides of the reinforcement board for reference.

T o prevent tearing up the foam, don't drill the hole using

☛

an electric drill. It is better to use your fingers to slowly twist the drill bit.

❑ Test fit the two wood dowels into the fuselage. The 3mm x 70mm dowel is installed through the forward holes and the 3mm x 60mm dowel is installed through the rear holes. Adjust both dowels so that they are centered in the fuselage.

❑ Remove both dowels and mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy inside each of the four holes.

❑ Slide the dowels back into place and realign them. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and set the fuselage aside until the epoxy sets up.

SECTION 2: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator ❑ {1} Fiberglass Reinforcement Spar

❑ {1} Elevator Reinforcement Board - 2 Parts ❑ {1} Decal Sheet

❑ {1} Prebent Elevator Joiner Wire

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Scissors ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Masking Tape

Step 1: Installing the Reinforcement Spar

❑ Carefully remove the die-cut horizontal stabilizer and elevator from the foam sheet. ❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully sand the edges of the stabilizer and elevator smooth and

straight.

IMPORTANT

A fiber glass spar is provided to strengthen the horizontal stabilizer . For the strongest joint possible, it's important that t he spar be installed correctly. When installing the spar, two things are very important: the spar should be glued along its entire length (making sure it is pushed firmly against the trailing edge) and the stabilizer must be flat when you glue the spar into place. This will ensure you don't build a warp into the stabilizer.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ Line up the ends of the spar with the ends of the stabilizer

and carefully glue the spar to the trailing edge. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and use small pieces of masking tape to hold the assembly in place until the epoxy sets up.

IMPORTANT

When gluing the assembly into place it's important that the spar be glued securely to the trailing edge and that the stabilizer be perfectly flat during the drying process.

❑ After the epoxy has cured, remove the pieces of masking tape and carefully sand the ends of the spar even with the ends of the stabilizer.

Step 2: Installing the Elevator Joiner Wire

❑ Place the prebent wire on the bottom of the elevator. ❑ Center the wire over the middle of the elevator, making

sure that the front of the wire is even with the leading edge. ❑ When satisfied with the alignment, push the wire down

firmly to make an impression of the wire in the foam.

❑ Remove the wire. ❑ Using a ruler and a modeling knife, carefully cut a very

shallow groove in the elevator using the impression left in the foam as a guide.

❑ Test-fit the joiner wire into place. It should be flush with the bottom of the elevator and fit firmly in the groove. ❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and carefully glue the joiner wire into place. Remove any excess epoxy

before it sets up using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

IMPORTANT

During the drying process, double-check that the leading edge of the elevator stays straight and that the elevator is flat on your work table.

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❑ After the epoxy has cured, carefully apply one piece of elevator reinforcement board over the ends of the joiner wire.

IMPORT ANT

Make sure each piece covers the end of the joiner wire.

Step 3: Hinging the Elevator

❑ Using a ruler and a modeling knife, carefully cut out the clear elevator hinge from the decal sheet.

❑ Hinge the elevator to the horizontal stabilizer using the

clear decal. Apply the hinge to the top of the parts and make sure there is a 1/16" gap between them.

Use the guide marks on the ends of the hinge decal to

☛

help you set the proper hinge gap.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, lightly sand the edges of the stabilizer and the elevator smooth and even with each other.

Step 4: Mounting the Horizontal Stabilizer

❑ Using the tip of your modeling knife, remove the die-cut foam piece from the middle of the stabilizer.

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, draw a centerline across

the top of the horizontal stabilizer. The line should be perpendicular to the hinge line.

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❑ Set the horizontal stabilizer assembly on top of the fuselage.

❑ To align the stabilizer properly, the back edge of the fiberglass spar should be even with the back edge of the fuselage and the centerline you drew on top of the stabilizer should be centered over the middle of the fuselage.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, hold the stabilizer in place and use a pencil to draw two lines on the bottom of the stabilizer (one on each side) where it meets the fuselage sides.

❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to only the bottom of the stabilizer between the two lines you drew.

❑ Set the stabilizer back into place and realign it. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the stabilizer firmly in place until the epoxy sets up.

SECTION 3: VERTICAL STABILIZER

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Scissors ❑ Builder's Triangle ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

Step 1: Hinging the Rudder

❑ Carefully remove the die-cut vertical stabilizer and rudder from the foam sheet.

❑ {1} Decal Sheet

❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

❑ Using the tip of your modeling knife, carefully remove the piece of die-cut foam from the rudder.

❑ Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the right and left rudder decals from the decal sheet. Notice that the left-side decal acts as the rudder hinge, too.

❑ Carefully apply the right-side decal onto the rudder. After the decal is in place, use a pair of scissors to trim the decal flush with the edges of the rudder.

❑ Hinge the rudder to the vertical stabilizer using the left side decal, making sure there is a 1/16" hinge gap between the two parts.

❑ After the decal is in place, use a pair of scissors to trim the decal flush with the edges of the rudder. Once you've trimmed the decal, use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to lightly sand the edges of the stabilizer and the rudder smooth and even.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the decal from over both sides of the die-cut hole in the rudder.

Step 4: Mounting the Vertical Stabilizer

❑ Set the vertical stabilizer assembly on top of the horizontal stabilizer. To align it properly, the tab in the vertical stabilizer should fit into the slot in the horizontal stabilizer and the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer should be even with the leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ While holding the vertical stabilizer in place, use a builder's triangle to check to ensure that it is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, remove the vertical stabilizer. ❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to only the bottom edge of the vertical stabilizer.

❑ Set the stabilizer back into place and realign it, double-

checking that it is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer. ❑ Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and

rubbing alcohol, and hold the stabilizer in place until the epoxy sets up.

SECTION 4: MOTOR AND GEAR BOX INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ {1} Prebent Main Gear Wire ❑ {2} Main Gear Wheels ❑ {2} Nylon Wheel Retainers

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING SUPPLIES:

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Electric Drill

Step 1: Installing the Motor and Gear Box Assembly

❑ Carefully press the landing gear wire into the molded groove in the back of the gear box assembly.

❑ {1} 370 Motor w/Gear Box ❑ {3} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws

❑ 1/16" Drill Bit ❑ Pencil

❑ Slide the motor wires into the precut hole in the front of the fuselage and push the motor assembly up against the

plywood motor mount.

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❑ Align the bottom of the gear box assembly with the bottom of the motor mount.

❑ Use a pencil to mark the locations of the three mounting holes onto the motor mount.

❑ Remove the gear box assembly and set it aside. Using a drill with a 1/16" drill bit, drill pilot holes through the motor mount at each of the three marks you drew.

❑ Set the gear box assembly back into place and realign it. ❑ Install and tighten the three 3mm x 12mm wood screws

to hold the gear box assembly securely to the fuselage.

Don't overtighten the screws or you might strip the

☛

motor mount.

Step 2: Installing the Wheels

❑ Slide one wheel onto one of the axles. ❑ Using needle nose pliers, carefully squeeze one nylon

wheel retainer onto the axle to secure the wheel into place.

Double-check that the wheel spins without binding. If the wheel does bind, carefully pull the retainer just far enough

☛

away from the wheel to prevent the binding. ❑ Repeat the procedure above to install the second wheel and wheel retainer.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

SECTION 5: ELEVATOR & RUDDER PUSHROD INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ {2} 1.5mm x 400mm Threaded Pushrod Wires ❑ {2} Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING SUPPLIES:

❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

Step 1: Installing the Control Horns

❑ Push one control horn through each die-cut hole in the rudder and the elevator. The tip of the elevator control horn should face the top of the elevator and the tip of the rudder control horn should face the side opposite the elevator control horn.

❑ {2} Nylon Clevises

❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16" Drill Bit ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

❑ Making sure that the flat portion of the backplates face

away from the control surfaces, push the backplates over the ends of the control horns until you hear them "click" firmly into place.

Step 2: Installing the Servos

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto each of the servo mounting lugs.

❑ Mount the servos using the servo mounting screws provided with your servos. T o make it easier to install the screws,

use the tip of your modeling knife to make small pilot holes in the reinforcement board.

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❑ Test fit your two micro servos into the rear hole in the fuselage. If necessary, use a modeling knife to enlarge the hole to accommodate your particular servos.

Both of the servos' output shafts should face toward the

☛

front of the fuselage.

Step 3: Installing the Pushrods

❑ Plug the elevator and rudder servo leads into their proper slots in the receiver. Plug the ESC lead into the receiver and the flight battery into the ESC . Turn on the radio system and center both of the servos using the trim levers on the transmitter.

❑ Thread one nylon clevis onto each of the two 1.5mm x 400mm threaded pushrod wires. Thread the clevises on far enough to leave room for adjustments later.

❑ Carefully snap the clevis on one pushrod into the elevator control horn.

❑ Place a "single arm" servo horn onto the elevator servo, making sure that the servo horn is centered and points toward the outside of the fuselage. The arm should have at least three holes in it.

❑ With both the servo horn and the elevator centered, use a pencil to draw a mark on the pushrod wire where it crosses the hole that is 1/4" out from the center of the servo horn.

❑ Using Magnum Z-Bend Pliers, make a Z-Bend in the pushrod wire at the mark you drew. Use wire cutters to remove the excess wire.

❑ Remove the servo horn, attach it to the Z-Bend, then attach the servo horn to the servo, making sure it's centered. Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw, provided with your servo, to secure the servo horn into place.

You will need to enlarge the hole in the servo arm using

☛

a 1/16" drill bit, so that the pushrod wire will fit through.

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SECTION 6: WING ASSEMBLY

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ Install the rudder pushrod wire using the same technique as with the elevator pushrod wire. The Z-Bend should be installed into the hole that is 1/4" out from the center of the servo horn as well.

❑ Double-check that the elevator and rudder are still centered. If they are out of adjustment, remove the clevises and readjust them until you are satisfied with the alignment. Unplug and turn off your radio system.

❑ {1} Left Wing Panel ❑ {1} Right Wing Panel

❑ {1} Wing Reinforcement Board - 2 Parts ❑ {2} 180mm Long Adhesive Strips

❑ {1} Molded Plastic Wing Mount

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape

❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups ❑ Hair Dryer

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

Step 1: Joining the Wing Panels

❑ T est-fit the two wing panels together . There should be no gaps in the center section joint and the top and bottom of the wing panels should be perfectly flat.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, glue the wing panels together using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy before it sets up and hold the wing panels firmly in place until the epoxy dries.

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❑ After the epoxy has cured, apply one piece of adhesive tape on the bottom of the wing, over the center section joint.

❑ Turn the wing over and apply the second piece of adhesive tape on the top of the wing, over the center section joint.

IMPORT ANT

The top piece should overlap both the leading edge and the trailing edge.

❑ With the adhesive tape securely in place, use a hair dryer to shrink the heat-shrink material tight across the entire wing, both top and bottom.

WARNING

Work slowly and use only enough heat to shrink the heatshrink material. Excessive heat could melt the foam wing.

❑ Carefully apply the leading and trailing edge pieces of reinforcement board to the wing making sure they're centered over the centerline. Notice that the pieces are scored to make it easier to bend around the wing.

IMPORTANT

The middle portion of one piece of reinforcement board is thinner than the other piece. The piece with the thinner

center section is for the leading edge.

Step 2: Installing the Plastic Wing Mount

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure and draw a centerline on top of the wing mount, at both the front and the back.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a hole in the wing mount using the factory-made scribe lines as a guide.

This hole will allow the aileron servo lead(s) to pass

☛

through.

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❑ With the plastic wing mount upright on your work table, set the wing on top of the wing mount.

❑ Now align the wing to the wing mount. The centerline

of the wing should be lined up with the centerline marks you drew on the wing mount and the trailing edge of the wing should be 1/4" in front of the back edge of the mount as shown.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, use a couple pieces of masking tape to hold the wing mount securely to the wing.

❑ With the wing mount in place and aligned, turn the wing

over and use a pencil to outline the sides of the wing mount onto the bottom of the wing.

❑ Remove the wing mount from the wing. ❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper, very carefully lightly roughen the gluing surfaces of both the plastic wing mount and the

bottom of the wing. Use the lines you drew on the wing as your guide.

IMPORTANT

Do not sand through the heat-shrink material on the wing. Be very careful. ❑ Mix a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to the gluing surfaces of the plastic wing mount. Use

enough epoxy to ensure a good bond.

❑ Carefully set the wing back onto the wing mount and realign it. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the wing firmly in place until the epoxy sets up.

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SECTION 7: AILERON PUSHROD INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ {2} Sheet-Foam Ailerons ❑ {2} 180mm Long Adhesive Strips ❑ {2} 1.5mm x 150mm Threaded Pushrod Wires

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING SUPPLIES:

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

Step 1: Hinging the Ailerons

❑ {2} Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates ❑ {2} Nylon Clevises ❑ {1} Aileron Servo Mounting Board - 2 Parts

❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16" Drill Bit ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

❑ Hinge each aileron to the wing using the two pieces of

adhesive tape provided. There should be a 3/32" hinge gap to allow adequate control deflection.

The tips of the ailerons should be even with the wing

☛

tips.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the foam from inside the hole you cut previously in the plastic wing mount.

This hole will allow the aileron servo lead(s) to exit the wing.

☛

IMPORTANT

The Crazy Max EP can be set up to use either one aileron servo for both ailerons or separate aileron servos for each aileron. If you plan on using only a four channel radio system and/or you plan on only doing basic aerobatics, we suggest using the one aileron servo option. If you have a mixing-capable computer radio and receiver, and want to do extreme aerobatics, we suggest using two separate aileron servos. Hardware is included for both options.

For Separate Aileron Servo Installation, Follow Steps # 2 and # 3 on the Next Page.

For Single Aileron Servo Installation, Follow Steps # 4 and # 5 on Page # 24.

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Step 2: Installing the Aileron Servos - Separate Servo Setup

❑ Using the tip of your modeling knife, remove the die-cut piece from the middle of one aileron servo mounting board.

❑ Remove the protective backing from the board and stick the board to the bottom of the wing. The inside edge of the board should be 1-1/8" out from the side of the wing mount and the back edge of the board should be 2-3/4" in front of the aileron hinge line.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the foam from within the cutout in the mounting board.

❑ Install one servo into place using the same technique as

with the elevator and rudder servos. Use needle nose pliers to pull the servo lead out of the hole in the wing mount.

IMPORTANT

The servo output shaft should be toward the leading edge of the wing.

❑ Repeat the procedures above to install the second aileron servo into the other half of the wing.

Step 3: Installing the Aileron Pushrods - Separate Servo Setup

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure out 1-1/2" from the inside edge of one aileron and draw a mark. This will be the location of the control horn.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut a thin 1/4" long slot (perpendicular to the hinge line) through the aileron at the mark you drew. Cut the slot about 1/4" behind the front of the aileron so that the pivot point of the control horn will be over the hinge line.

❑ Install one control horn using the same technique as with the elevator and rudder control horns. Make sure the flat side of the backplate is facing away from the aileron.

❑ Plug the aileron servo lead into the proper slot in the receiver. Plug the ESC lead into the receiver and the flight battery into the ESC . Turn on the radio system and center the servo using the trim lever on the transmitter.

❑ Thread one nylon clevis onto one 1.5mm x 150mm threaded pushrod wire. Thread the clevis on far enough to leave room for adjustments later.

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❑ Carefully snap the clevis into the aileron control horn. ❑ Place a "single arm" servo horn onto the aileron servo, making sure that the servo horn is centered and points toward

the wing tip. The arm should have at least three holes in it. ❑ With both the servo horn and the aileron centered, use a pencil to draw a mark on the pushrod wire where it crosses

the hole that is 7/16" out from the center of the servo horn. ❑ Using Magnum Z-Bend Pliers, make a Z-Bend in the pushrod wire at the mark you drew. Use wire cutters to remove

the excess wire.

❑ Remove the servo horn, attach it to the Z-Bend, then attach the servo horn to the servo, making sure it's centered.

❑ Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw, provided with your servo, to secure the servo horn into place.

You will need to enlarge the hole in the servo arm using

☛

a 1/16" drill bit, so that the pushrod wire will fit through.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the aileron linkage on the other half of the wing.

Step 4: Installing the Aileron Servo - Single Servo Setup

❑ Using the tip of your modeling knife, remove the die-cut piece from the middle of one aileron servo mounting board.

❑ Remove the protective backing from the board and stick the board to the top of the wing. The board should be centered over the centerline of the wing and the back edge of the board should be 2-3/4" in front of the trailing edge.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the foam from within the cutout in the mounting board.

❑ Install the servo into place using the same technique as

with the elevator and rudder servos. Make sure to pull the servo lead out of the hole in the wing mount.

IMPORTANT

The servo output shaft should be toward the leading edge of the wing.

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Step 5: Installing the Aileron Pushrods - Single Servo Setup

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure 3/8" out from the inside edge of one aileron and draw a mark. ❑ Using a modeling knife, cut a thin 1/4" long slot through the aileron at the mark you drew. Cut the slot about 1/4"

behind the front of the aileron so that the pivot point of the control horn will be over the hinge line.

IMPORTANT

Cut the slot at a slight angle toward the servo. This will allow the pushrod assembly to line up with the servo arm - see below.

❑ Install one control horn using the same technique as with the elevator and rudder control horns. Make sure the flat side of the backplate is facing away from the aileron.

The tip of the control horn should be toward the top of

☛

the wing.

❑ Repeat the procedure above to install the second control horn on the other aileron. ❑ Plug the aileron servo lead into the proper slot in the receiver. Plug the ESC lead into the receiver and the flight

battery into the ESC . Turn on the radio system and center the servo using the trim lever on the transmitter. ❑ Thread one nylon clevis onto each of the two 1.5mm x 150mm threaded pushrod wires. Thread the clevises on far

enough to leave room for adjustments later.

❑ Carefully snap one clevis into each of the control horns. ❑ Place a "dual arm" servo horn onto the aileron servo, making sure that the servo horn is centered . Both arms should

have at least three holes in them. ❑ With both the servo horn and the ailerons centered, use a pencil to draw a mark on each pushrod wire where it crosses

the hole that is 7/16" out from the center of the servo horn. ❑ Using Magnum Z-Bend Pliers, make a Z-Bend in each pushrod wire at the mark you drew. Use wire cutters to

remove the excess wire.

❑ Remove the servo horn, attach it to the Z-Bends, then attach the servo horn to the servo, making sure it's centered.

❑ Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw , provided with your servo, to secure the servo horn into place.

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Y ou will need to enlar ge the holes in the servo arm using

☛

a 1/16" drill bit, so that the pushrod wires will fit through.

SECTION 8: WING MOUNTING

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ {2} Rubber Bands

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING SUPPLIES:

❑ Scissors ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

Step 1: Trimming the Wing Mount

❑ Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the base of the plastic wing mount leaving about 1/8" of material beyond the radius.

❑ Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut away and remove the plastic from over the two molded pushrod exit slots in the back of the wing mount.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, sand the edges of the plastic wing mount smooth and straight.

Step 2: Mounting the Wing

❑ Set the wing assembly onto the fuselage. To align it properly, the front of the wing mount should be pushed up against the back of the gear box and centered on the fuselage.

IMPORTANT

Depending on the positions of the elevator and rudder pushrods, you may need to enlarge the slots in the back of the wing mount to clear them. You may also need to cut the servo arms shorter so they don't hit the sides of the wing mount.

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SECTION 9: FINAL ASSEMBLY

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, secure the wing in place using two rubber bands.

❑ {1} 7.5 x 5 Propeller ❑ {1} 3mm Flat Washer ❑ {2} 3mm Hex Nuts

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING SUPPLIES:

❑ Adjustable Wrench ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Scissors

Step 1: Installing the Propeller

❑ Thread one 3mm hex nut onto the propeller shaft and tighten it by hand until it will not thread on any further. ❑ Slide the propeller onto the propeller shaft, making sure that the back of the propeller slides firmly over the hex nut.

The back of the propeller is molded to fit over the hex nut.

☛

❑ {1} 37mm x 50mm Sheet-Foam ❑ {1} Decal Sheet ❑ {1} Double-Sided Tape

❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron ❑ Kester Solder

❑ Slide the 3mm flat washer up against the propeller and

thread on the second 3mm hex nut. Tighten the hex nut, using an adjustable wrench, to hold the propeller in place.

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Do not overtighten the nut or you might strip the prop

☛

shaft.

IMPORTANT

The locations of the radio equipment shown in the next few steps is only approximate. This is how our test airplanes were set up. The locations of your radio equipment could differ and should be dependent on where you balance your airplane. Balancing will be done in the next section.

Step 2: Installing the Receiver

❑ Plug the elevator and rudder servo leads into their proper slots in the receiver. ❑ Uncoil the receiver antenna and feed it into the hole in front of the servos, down through the inside of the fuselage and

out the back.

❑ Mount the receiver inside the hole in front of the servos using a couple of pieces of double-sided tape. Depending on the size of the receiver you're using, you may need to enlarge the cutout so that the receiver will fit down into the fuselage.

A Hitec 555 Micro receiver with the case removed is

☛

shown.

IMPORTANT

Depending on the location of your receiver, you may want to use short aileron extensions to make it easier to plug in the aileron servo lead(s) when you install the wing.

Step 3: Installing the Electronic Speed Control

❑ Connect the motor leads on your ESC to the motor leads on the motor. Run the ESC throttle lead through the front hole in the fuselage and plug it into the proper slot in the receiver.

If the motor leads on your ESC do not match the motor leads on the motor, you will need to remove the motor leads

☛

from the motor and replace them with ones that are compatible with your ESC.

❑ Mount the ESC to the fuselage side, right behind the motor mount. Use a small piece of double-sided tape to hold it in place.

To reduce the possibility of radio interference, mount

☛

the ESC as far away from the receiver as possible.

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Step 4: Installing the Flight Battery

❑ The flight battery should be installed directly behind the motor mount to aid in balancing.

T o make it easier to install the battery, use a modeling

☛

knife to cut away and remove a portion of the fuselage between the forward and middle cutouts.

IMPORTANT

We strongly suggest cutting two 1/4" diameter air-intake holes in the front of the plastic wing mount to allow cool air to pass over the flight battery. This will keep the battery from over-heating.

Step 5: Installing the Pilot Figure

❑ Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out each of the two pilot figure decals along their outer edges.

❑ Apply one decal to one side of the 37mm x 50mm piece of sheet-foam.

❑ Using a sharp modeling knife, carefully trim the sheet-foam along the outer edges of the decal. ❑ Apply the second decal to the opposite side of the sheet-foam.

❑ Mount the pilot on top of the fuselage using a narrow

strip of double-sided tape.

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Step 6: Applying the Decals

❑ Working with one decal at a time, use a pair of scissors to carefully cut out the decal along its outer edges. ❑ Remove the protective backing from the decal and apply the decal to the airplane. (Use the box cover photos to

position the decals.) Lightly rub the decal with a soft cloth to remove any trapped air from beneath it.

If any air bubbles form in the decal you can "prick" the bubble with a straight pin to release the air.

☛

❑ Repeat the steps above to apply the remaining decals. Rub each decal down thoroughly to adhere it into place.

SECTION 10: BALANCING THE CRAZY MAX EP

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING SUPPLIES:

❑ Ruler

IMPORTANT

It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly. Improper balance will cause your airplane to lose control and crash!

Center of Gravity Location:

2-7/8" back from the leading edge of the wing, at the sides of the wing mount.

WARNING

This location is recommended for initial test flying. The C.G. can be moved aft up to 1/2", but it is not recommended that the C.G. be located any farther back than 3-3/8".

IMPORTANT

As you move the C.G. further aft, you may find you need to either trim the elevator down slightly or add about 2 degrees of downthrust in the motor to prevent the airplane from climbing.

Balance the Crazy Max EP with the flight battery installed.

☛

❑ Install the wing onto the fuselage.

❑ Pencil

❑ Measure back and draw two marks on the bottom of the wing, 2-7/8" back from the leading edge, at the fuselage sides. ❑ Place your fingers on the marks, and carefully lift the airplane. If the nose of the airplane falls, the airplane is nose

heavy. T o correct this, move the battery pack and/or receiver back far enough to bring the airplane into balance. If the tail of the airplane falls, the airplane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the battery pack and/or receiver forward enough to bring the airplane into balance. When balanced correctly , the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers at the C.G. location.

Once you have flown and become familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, the C.G. can be moved fore

☛

or aft up to 1/4" in each direction to change the flight performance. Moving the C.G. back will cause the airplane to be more responsive, but less stable. Moving the C.G. forward will cause the airplane to be more stable, but less responsive.

Do not fly the airplane beyond the recommended balance range or an uncontrollable crash could result!

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SECTION 11: LATERAL BALANCING

While not absolutely necessary, lateral balancing will make the airplane easier to trim and will make it track straighter

☛

in the air. ❑ Turn the airplane upside down and tie one length of string to the propeller shaft and one length of string to the tail

skid. (You'll have to drill a small hole through the skid.) ❑ Carefully lift the airplane up by the two pieces of string. Watch how the wing reacts. If one side of the wing drops,

that side is heavier than the other. To correct this, stick a small piece of self-adhesive lead to the bottom of the wing tip. ❑ Repeat the procedure a couple of more times to double-check your findings. When done properly the wing should

stay level when you lift the airplane.

SECTION 12: CONTROL THROWS

We recommend setting up the Crazy Max EP using the control throws listed below. These control throws are suggested for initial test-flying because they will allow the airplane to fly smoother and make it easier to control.

TEST-FLYING

Elevator: 1/2" Up 1/2" Down

Ailerons: 3/8" Up 3/8" Down

Rudder: 3/4" Right 3/4" Left

Once you've test-flown the airplane and have become more comfortable with its flight characteristics, you may want to increase the control throws to the Sport Flying recommendations below.

SPORT FLYING

Elevator: 3/4" Up 3/4" Down

Ailerons: 1/2" Up 1/2" Down

Rudder: 1" Right 1" Left

SECTION 13: COMPUTER RADIO SETUP

Although you don't have to use a computer radio to enjoy the flying qualities of the Crazy Max, if you're planning on doing extreme aerobatics or want the use of flaperons for really slow flight, it is recommended. Before making any adjustments, please read and understand your radio's setup manual.

EXPONENTIAL

Expo, as it's more commonly referred to, softens the control feel around neutral. This is especially helpful when flying an airplane that uses a lot of control throw. Softening the neutral point makes the airplane fly more smoothly and makes it more likely that you won't over-control. Obviously you may want to change the expo settings to suit your flying style, but here are some good starting points:

SPORT FLYING AEROBATIC FLYING

Elevator: 30% 6 0 % Ailerons: 35% 50% Rudder: 25% 50%

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FLAPERON AND SPOILERON MIXING:

Since you are setting up the controls for aerobatic flying, you've installed separate aileron servos. Plugging the servos separately into the receiver will allow the use of flaperons (both ailerons down at the same time) and spoilerons (both ailerons up at the same time). These functions can then be mixed with the elevator for extreme pitch changes useful in more extreme aerobatic maneuvers.

Elevator: 1" Up and Spoilerons (up) 1/4" Elevator: 1" Down and Flaperons (down) 1/4"

IMPORTANT

Use of more than 1/4" of flaperons and spoilerons will cause excessive drag, negating any of their useful effects. We do not recommend using flaperon and spoileron to elevator mixing during general sport flying, especially during takeoff and landing.

AEROBATIC FLYING CONTROL SURFACE THROWS

Elevator: 1" Up 1" Down Ailerons: 3/4" Up 3/4" Down Rudder: 1-1/2" Right 1-1/2" Left

The Aerobatic Flying control surface throws are our preferences. The airplane flies very good using them; how-

☛

ever, these recommendations are not set in stone. Feel free to make adjustments to suit your flying style. Have fun experimenting!

FLAPERONS FOR SLOW FLIGHT:

The Crazy Max will fly pretty slowly set up as-is. It'll fly even slower when using flaperons to increase lift. Flaperons should only be used during slow flight. When the flaperons are deployed you will notice the airplane wants to descend rapidly. We suggest programming elevator mixing compensation into your radio to reduce this tendency. When set up properly the airplane should descend slightly nose-down with the flaperons fully deployed.

Flaperons: 7/8" down (both ailerons)

IMPORTANT

With the flaperons fully deployed, aileron control will be substantially reduced.

SECTION 14: PREFLIGHT CHECK & SAFETY

●

Check the operation of the throttle. To do this, do the following:

A) Plug in your flight battery and turn on the radio system.

WARNING

Do not turn the receiver on unless the transmitter is turned on first. Always turn the transmitter on first. Never allow hands or clothing to get in the way of the propeller when the radio is turned on. Sudden unwanted radio signals, or turning the radio on with the throttle stick set at full throttle, can turn the motor on unintentionally. Always make sure that the throttle control stick is set to idle before turning on the transmitter.

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B) When the throttle control stick is at the idle position, the motor should be off. Moving the stick forward should turn on the motor. Gradually moving the stick to the full forward position should result in the motor running at full power.

Some ESCs will give you more proportional control than others. Your ESC may also have a manual control

☛

adjustment screw that must be adjusted prior to using the ESC. (Refer to your ESC's operating guide for further information.)

●

Cycle the flight battery three times. When NiMH batteries are new they need to be used 2-3 times before they will produce their top voltage and duration. To cycle them, simply charge the battery and then run the motor until the motor stops. Allow the battery and motor to cool, then repeat this procedure two more times.

●

Check the condition of the transmitter batteries. They should be fully charged.

●

Check every glue joint in the Crazy Max EP to ensure that everything is tight and well-bonded.

●

Double-check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the flight battery installed.

●

Check the control surfaces. They should move in the correct direction and not bind.

●

Check to ensure that the control surfaces are moving the proper amount.

●

Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage.

●

We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in direct sunlight) for any length of time. The extreme heat could cause the foam to melt and possibly damage the fragile components of the radio system, ESC or batteries.

The following are our general guidelines for your safety and the safety of others. Please read and understand these safety guidelines before going out to the flying field for the first time.

●

Do not test-fly your model for the first time without first having it safety-checked by an experienced modeler.

●

Do not fly your model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without having an observer with you. The observer should tell you about any full-size aircraft in your vicinity and you should always give the right-of-way to full-scale aircraft.

●

When flying at a flying field with established rules, you should abide by those rules. You should not deliberately fly your model in a reckless and/or dangerous manner.

●

While flying, you should not deliberately fly behind the flight line. If your model should inadvertently fly behind the flight line, you should change course immediately.

●

You should complete a successful range check of your radio equipment prior to each new day of flying, or prior to the first flight of a new or repaired model.

●

You should perform your initial turn after take- off away from the flightline and/or spectator area.

●

You should not knowingly operate your R/C radio system within 3 miles of a preexisting model club flying field without a frequency sharing agreement with that club.

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SECTION 15: FLYING THE CRAZY MAX EP

The Crazy Max EP can take off from the ground or be hand-launched. We recommend ground take-offs only from hard smooth surfaces or very short grass.

Taking Off from the Ground

With the airplane pointing into the wind, apply full power and feed in right rudder to keep the airplane tracking straight as it rolls down the runway. Once sufficient airspeed has been reached (which will happen very quickly), gently apply up elevator to lift the airplane off the ground. Climb out straight ahead in a shallow climb to build up speed. Do not make any steep turns right after take off or you may stall the airplane.

Hand Launching

Hand Launching should always be done into the wind. To hand-launch the airplane, gently grasp the fuselage between your thumb and forefingers at the C.G. location. Hold

the airplane above shoulder level and turn on the motor to full power. W ith the motor running at full power, gently toss the airplane straight ahead and level. Do not throw it up at an angle or throw it hard. Let the airplane fly straight and level to pick up airspeed, then climb to your desired altitude. Be careful not to climb too steeply after hand-launching or you could stall the airplane.

In the Air

The Crazy Max is smooth and predictable, yet is capable of doing extreme aerobatics. W ith full power , climb-out is crisp and fast. We strongly suggest using the Test Flying control throws until you are confident flying the airplane. You will find that at full power the Crazy Max is quite fast so you have to be on top of it.

Most all types of aerobatics can be done with the Crazy Max. Most pilots will probably do most of their flying using the Sport Flying control throws. These throws are good for almost all aerobatics. You will find that the Crazy Max performs axial rolls, has good vertical performance, and has excellent overall flying qualities.

With flaperon and spoileron mixing engaged and full elevator control throw, the Crazy Max will react quickly to extreme pitch changes. This is useful for very tight loops, 90 degree angles (like when doing square loops) or any other maneuvers that require pinpoint pitch changes.

The Crazy Max flies equally well at low throttle settings. With the throttle at about 1/4 power, the Crazy Max cruises around like a trainer. Using flaperons will make the airplane fly even slower. It's not uncommon for the airplane to literally hover in a light headwind with the flaperons fully deployed. Since aileron control is diminished with the flaperons deployed, we suggest doing coordinated aileron-rudder turns for the best maneuverability at slow speeds. This will prevent the airplane from stalling.

Landing

Landings should always be done into the wind. Prepare for landing by reducing power and allowing the airplane to slow down and descend. Just before touch-down, turn the motor off and let the airplane settle near the ground. Flair just before touch-down and you will be rewarded with a slow 3-point landing. As always, when landing, be careful not to overcontrol. Over-controlling leads to excessive oscillations which don't make for good landings.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

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Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

WattAge Crazy MAX EP Instructions For Final Assembly

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual