Walthers Cornerstone, 933-2829 Series Manual

MODERN 130' TURNTABLE
HO Scale
Structure Built-up
933-2829
Thanks for purchasing this Cornerstone Series
®
HISTORY OF THE TURNTABLE
Although we associate turntables with steam locos, they’re still used in some engine terminals. Requiring less space than a wye or loop, they’re an econom­ical way to reverse locos or cars. A turntable is basically a large bridge equipped with rails that can revolve in a full circle. Around the turntable, a series of radial tracks (other nicknames were also used) run into roundhouse stalls, open-air storage or service tracks. So that all rails were at the same height, the turntable was con­structed in a large circular opening, called a pit. Early pits were made of earth or stone, while modern designs used concrete.
The basic concept of the turntable evolved before the railroad, when crude examples were used to reverse coal carts in mines. From the earliest days, steam locos (as well as special­ized equipment like snowplows and observation cars) were built to operate in one direction, and had to be turned around for their return trip. By 1842, a device we would recognize as a rail­road turntable was in regular use in England. Over the next century, the turntable became a fixture of railroad­ing around the world.
In America, three basic types devel­oped. The first was the center-balance, with a central pivot point and wheels under each end of the bridge to support the weight, but bigger and heavier locos put too much strain on these early turntables. The next was the Articulated Design, with a central ver­tical hinge, which allowed the table to tip in the direction of the greatest weight. The final type (still seen today and the prototype for this model) was the Continuous Girder, which supports the weight on a center pivot and on
load-
bearing wheels under each end.
Two styles of turntable bridges became common. These included the Deck Style, with most of the bridge below ground level (requiring a deep pit) and the Through Type, where a portion of the bridge was above ground.
In order to swing the table end for end a source of power was needed. In the early days, men pushed the tables, and they came to be called “armstrongs,” as it took strong arms to do the job! In later years steam and gasoline engines were used to drive one set of the load­bearing wheels, but electric motors were found to be the best choice for most applications. Electricity was sup­plied to most tables by an arch over the center, connected to overhead power lines.
In most terminals, the turntable and roundhouse were in constant use. For easier and safer operation, turntables had a small operator’s cabin at one end of the bridge. This housed controls and placed the operator in the best position to align the rails. Many also sported an old engine bell, which was rung to warn that the table was being turned.
As was the case with most engine serv­ice facilities, new turntables were built to accommodate the longest engines in service on a division. For this reason, some large engines were restricted to one or two divisions where turntables and facilities were big enough for them. Railroads also went to extremes to uti­lize existing turntables. Some ordered new steam locos with short wheelbases so they would fit, others extended turntable rails, and some resorted to jacking up the end of the tender!
With the coming of diesels, the need for turntables began to decline. Although F units still had to be turned, the new roadswitchers and Geeps could be run in either direction. Today, the number of
turntables on active duty is declining, but those in use can be found at major shops and engine terminals. A few are also in use at railroad museums.
ON YOUR LAYOUT
This 130' table is typical of units installed by most roads from the 1920s on at division point terminals, where engines were changed and serviced. It will easily accommodate large articulat
ed steam locos and most diesels up to 18" (45cm) long.
As bigger power came into service, big­ger roundhouses were also required. This can easily be modeled with the Modern Roundhouse (933-2900) which includes parts for three complete stalls. It can be expanded up to a full circle with the Modern Roundhouse Add-On Stalls (933-2901) which includes matching roof panels, doors and interior truss work. Your new model will be right at home alongside the Machine Shop (933-2902), Modern Coaling Tower (933-2903), Sanding Tower (933-3182), Steel Water Tank (933-
3043), and Cinder Conveyor and Ash Pit (933-3181) as well.
In many bigger cities, the terminal was part of the railroad’s shop complex, which can be modeled with the Backshop (933-3039) and Car Shop (933-3040).
For more ideas to detail your scene, ask your dealer, visit walthers.com or see the latest Walthers HO Scale Model Railroad Reference Book.
For additional prototype history and information on turntables, see “The Locomotive Merry-Go-Round” by James Alexander Jr. in the July 1995 issue of Trains magazine. Your local library may also have copies of older Railroad Maintenance Cyclopedias, which provided basic information on turntables and other facilities.
©2004 Wm. K. Walthers, Inc. Milwaukee WI, 53218
933-2829 I sheet 12/2/04 10:22AM Page 1
INSTALLATION ON YOUR LAYOUT
Your new turntable has been care­fully assembled and tested to pro­vide years of enjoyable operation. Please take a few minutes to look over the parts, read these instruc
tions
and study the drawings before starting.
Your new turntable drive should be powered from its own power pack, sold separately. Check the output of the transformer with a voltmeter before making any electrical con-
nections. The drive operates best at 15 Volts AC or DC, 500mA; a minimum of 12 Volts is required, but total output must not exceed 19 Vo lts AC (RMS) or DC.
INSTALLING THE PIT
Your new turntable automatically reverses track polarity when turned. As a result, the unit has two electrically insulated areas where the track on the bridge is not pow­ered. These are identified on the underside of the lip by the “NO TRACK” lettering (also shown on the mounting template). Working approach and fan tracks must be installed away from these areas – we suggest placing them at 90° to the approach tracks. You can, how­ever, add an unpowered display track at these points if desired.
The opening in the wall of the pit houses the optical sensor used as the “zero point.”
For the indexing to work properly,
this area, along with the small gear teeth and ring rail molded in the bottom of the pit, must be clean and open at all times. If you plan to paint or weather the pit further, mask off these areas before start­ing.
Befor
e installing the pit, cover the center pivot hole with tape to keep out dust and debris.
For best results your new turntable must be installed on a flat, level surface. Determine the location for your pit; use the enclosed template to cut the mounting hole in your benchwork. Allow at least 2-1/4" (5.7cm) of clearance below the pit. The zero reader is mounted direct­ly below a mounting boss; be sure to provide clearance in your bench-
work for the reader too.
If your pit will be mounted on a wooden surface, drill out the areas for the mounting bosses as shown on the template with a 5/16" (8mm) bit. Secure the pit in place using the eight screws and washers — if the thickness of your wood surface is less than 1/2", use addi­tional washers (not included) for correct spacing — do not over tighten as this could cause the pit to warp.
If you are using foam for the sur­face of your layout, open the areas for the mounting bosses slightly and push the pit into place.
Make sure the pit is level, secure and properly supported before proceeding.
POS: Red LED comes on when the turntable is in a programmed position.
POWER: Red LED stays lit when power is on.
RIGHT/LEFT ARROW: Use to move and stop the bridge.
ZERO: Use to locate the zero point.
SET: Use to program the stopping points.
INSTALLING THE CONTROL BOX
This unit is used to program and operate your turntable. As noted above, we suggest a dedicated power pack be used as a power
supply. Do not attempt to run the turntable at this time.
The control box can be used as-is, or flush-mounted on the surface or side of your layout. Simply remove the four screws from the back to
remove the front panel. Cut a mounting hole with the template, place the front panel in the opening and reattach the back.
Wiring
Connection points are marked on the underside as follows: B1 and B2
= connect to rail power supply; powers bridge rails. U &
V = connect to AC termi­nals on power pack; powers drive mechanism.
All wires are secured using the small screw terminals. Plug in the large gray cable from the indexing unit (located beneath the pit) into the port on the side of the control box.
933-2829 I sheet 12/2/04 10:23AM Page 2
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