Watch our build videos, now on Youtube.
From unboxing to the maiden flight, we have it all on videos for you to
see, learn and follow to ensure you get the most out of the Speedsters.
Search Vortex-RC on Youtube, or follow the link : http://goo.gl/GMhxgG
or scan the QR-code on the right.
The manual has QR codes in each of the sections linking to relevant
videos to help you easily find the videos.
Instructional Manual
REV 3.0
Congratulations on your purchase of the “ Vortex-RC VT-AllRounder” – An airplane
that excels as a 3 channel trainer for first time fliers,
introduces ailerons to intermediate fliers and also
provides a platform for fully aerobatic platform to
perform any pattern maneuver in the book. A
perfect Allrounder.
Please take time to read through this manual in
detail as well as watch our videos that illustrate the
build steps. We recommend that you read several
steps ahead and test fit parts without using glue and
once you double check everything then only use the
adhesive. Our precision laser cutting ensures you will need minimal or no modifications to parts for a
fit, and that all fits are tight and accurate. If you find any part that does not fit properly, please read
the instructions and see pictures again to reorient/align correctly before using any glue.
We have written this manual so that the kit can be built individually as well as by groups of
students/builders. Please follow the build in the order as written below.
Additionally we have given 2 check mark places besides each step.
Check mark the first box when you complete the step. Check mark the second one, after you double
check the step, or when doing group builds have your project coordinator inspect and check it for you.
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Important Measurements/Specifications:
Wingspan: 1450mm
Wing-area: Trainer: 465 sq in. Intermediate: 465 sq in. Expert : 395 sq. inches
Recommended All out Flying weight: Trainer : ~650gms Int/Expert Wing : ~750 gms.
Wing loading: Trainer: ~7 Oz/Sq. ft. Int: ~8Oz/Sq. ft. Expert : ~9 Oz/Sq. ft.
CG Location: 65MM from Leading edge at Root. Spar location.
Aileron Dimensions:
● For Intermediate Wing: 10cm from root. 5 Cm From Tip. Aileron width 4 Cm.
For Expert Wing: 12cm from root. 0Cm from tip ( extends till edge ) Aileron Width : 4cm.
Control Throws:
Rudder: 2.5cm Left and Right
Elevator: 1.5cm Up and Down
Int Wing: 2cm Up / 1.5cm down
Expert Wing: 1cm Up / 1Cm down
*The above are all measurements that any flier should start at. Later they may change to achieve
their desired flight characteristics/performance.
Contents
o What's in the kit. Page 4
o What you need in order to complete the kit. Page 5
o Some basic stuff about materials used, and adhesives Page 6
o Build techniques - Hinging and Glueing. Page 8
o Building the Fuselage Page 10
o Building the Wing Page 22
o Installing the Electronics Page 34
o Appendix A Field packing checklist Page 38
o Appendix B – Preflight Page 38
o Appendix C – Trimming Guide Page 39
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Electronics Package (Optional) includes:
o 9 gm Servos ( 2 Nos. for Trainer, 3 Nos for Intermediate
and 4 Nos for Expert )
o 1 Nos. 18Amp Brushless ESC ( Speed controller )
o 1 Nos 2822 1200KV Brushless Motor
o 3 Pair 3.5mm Bullet connector
o 1 XT60 Male Connector
o 1 Nos Balanced
Propellor 9x4.7
o 15cm Servo Extension wire ( 1 Nos. Trainer. 2 Nos
Intermediate and 4 Nos. Expert )
o 1 Nos Servo Y Cable (Only for Expert Wing)
o 1 Nos Prop Saver with Rubber Bands
o 8 Pcs Heat Shrink Tube Red and Black
What's in the kit.
o 1 Nos. Laser Cut Coro Sheet (A, B, C and D )
o 1 Nos. CNC cut Left Wing Airfoil Foam Panel in its
wing bed
o 1 Nos. CNC cut Right Wing Airfoil Foam Panel in its
wing bed
o 2 Nos CNC cut Foam wing adapters
o 2 Nos. Aluminium round spars ( For Expert Wing, 3 Pcs )
o 1 Nos. CA Adhesive
o 1 Nos. 5 minute Epoxy
o 2 Nos. Lamination sheets
o 1 Nos. Fiberglass adhesive sheet
o Control Horns ( 2 Nos. Trainer. 4 Nos. Intermediate and Expert )
o Clevis ( 4 Nos. Trainer. 8 Nos. Intermediate and Expert )
o Pushrods ( 2 Nos Trainer. 4 Nos. Intermediate and Expert )
o 4 Nos. Rubber Bands
o 3 Nos. Laser Cut Dihedral Brace
(Not included/required in Expert Wing)
o 2 Nos Wooden Spar Joiner Dowels
( Only for Expert Wing )
o 1 Nos Laser Cut Motor mount
o 2 Nos. Aluminium Wing Holding rods
o 1 Nos Battery Strap
o 1 Nos Pin and thread
o 4 Nos Machine Screws
o Velcro Hook and Loop Material
o 1 Nos. 320 Grit Sand Paper
o 1 nos. Hobby Knife
o 2 Nos. Decal Sheets
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Laser cut precision Coroplast parts.
You will get all parts illustrated above but it may be oriented separately due to different sheet sizes available and
packaging constraints.
Laser Cut Plywood parts
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In order to complete the kit you will need the following
( check mark against each once you collect the items ) :
o Screw Driver o Metal Ruler
o Marker Pen o 90 deg Set Square
o Hot Glue gun and glue stick o Clear Packing Tape
You also need a clear and a flat table/surface or floor to work with. This is very important.
Having a flat surface will ensure your build goes straight and true.
You will also need the following to fly :
o 1 Nos 2200mah 3S Lithium Polymer Battery
o 1 Nos Lithium Polymer Battery Charger.
o 4 Channel or above radio set ( Tx and Rx )
About Coroplast
Coroplast, or Coro, which is a name given to
Fluted PolyPropylene sheets, is a lightweight,
sturdy, resilient material. Coroplast sheets has
parallel flutes which make the sheets very light
and strong and crushes, instead of breaking upon
impact. Coro bonds extremely well with
CyanoAcrylate, and epoxy. These characteristics
make it suitable for RC applications.
Some building techniques and styles are unique to building RC planes using Coro and can impart
even greater strength when used properly. Please read below and understand :
● Coro has higher strength perpendicular to the Flutes than Parallel to the flutes. Try it on
a piece of scrap. Its easy to bend the material in the direction of the flutes than in the
other side.
● Coro, when crushed can reduce strength. Be careful to not crush the flutes when
building .
● When cutting coro, parallel to the flutes, always cut in between the flutes using a new,
sharp knife/blade. When cutting perpendicular to the flutes, cut in multiple passes
taking care to not crush the material.
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About EPS Styrofoam
EPS, or Expanded Polystyrene , is commonly known as Thermocol and Styrofoam, is a closed cell
rigid and tough foam. EPS foam is available in various densities and we use a high density EPS
foam for CNC cutting our wing panels.
EPS foam is perfectly suited for hot wire CNC cutting, as it warps minimally and when cut the
material is absorbed in the outer layers of the foam and does not bead, like XPS foam, which is
prone to warping and beading.
EPS foam melts with CA adhesive, but Epoxy adhesives work great with it. Also, EPS foam can
be strengthening by laminating it . The Hot Wire process renders a layer of ‘foam-dust’ over the
panels. You need to gently sand that out before applying the lamination for best adhesion.
Sanding needed is super light and should be done carefully to avoid changing the airfoil shape
of the wing.
We ship the wing panels in their original wing beds. The wing beds not only provide protection
during shipping, but also should be used as jigs, when laminating and sparring to reduce the
chances of wing warping.
Hinging Technique.
Coro can be hinged easily. Just follow the steps below to create strong, clean and a flexible
hinge joint.
● Draw a line where the hinge has to be made, on the under side of the surface.
● Place a metal rule on the line, and adjust slightly so that the straight edge is in between
the flutes and not right over them.
● Using a sharp knife carefully cut only the upper surface of the Coro. Do NOT cut all the
way through. When cut, you should be able to bend the joint.
● Now we need
to clear the
hinge joint by
removing the
plastic material
. Bend the joint
all the way
through, and
tape it in place.
Carefully run a
sharp knife on
the edge and
slice of the
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plastic slivers on the edge.
● Once cleaned, bend the hinge joint completely, and put some packing tape on the hinge,
so that half of the tape is on one side and the other half is on other side as shown
below.
Glueing Technique - CA
Cyanoacrylate is a strong and fast adhesive that can bond Coro very well. However one has to
be extremely careful as once bonded it can be impossible to open the joint and will damage the
parts if attempted to be done. Please read below before using CA glue.
● Safety - CA can bond skin easily and instantly. Also CA fumes can irritate eyes and nose.
Try to build in an open space, and use ventilation.
● Coro flutes can drip CA . Be careful when glueing coro, as excess CA will drip out.
● Use very little CA. Only a drop or so is usually needed. Building light is very important.
Try to use as little glue as possible, yet ensure the joints are tight.
● There are two ways in which you can use CA :
A.Put a drop of CA on one part and then, immediately put the other part on it.
B. Hold the joint together and “flow “ the CA in place.
We prefer to Tack glue using one or two drops , and then flow a few drops through the joint.
Remember: Do NOT use CA on the Wing panels.
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Building the Fuselage
Build Steps:
1. Cut out and label the parts
2. Glue the doublers - Assemble the Battery Tray, skids, battery hatch and fuse bottom
3. Prepare/Hinge the Tail surfaces
4. Assemble the Fuselage
5. Assemble the Wings
6. Install the electronics
7. Apply the decals
8. Measurement checks.
9. Go Fly !
Step 1: Cut out and label the parts. 20 mins
Cut out all of the coro parts from the laser cut sheets using the knife, taking
care not to damage the various notches built in. Use the metal ruler to help in
scoring the straight cuts.As you take out the parts, label them by writing out the
part names each as shown in the plans.
Note: We have intentionally kept the laser cut parts attached to the sheets so that
small parts are not lost when we put together the kits.
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Step 2. Glue the doublers - Assemble the Battery Tray, Battery Hatch, skids, Former-A and the
Fuselage bottom 15 mins
In this step, we will glue the two parts of the battery tray, two parts of
Former-A and the two
parts of two skids
together. The battery
tray has notches and
alignment holes on
one side. Make sure to
align them properly.
Also make sure the cut outs match against
each other before glueing. Glue the battery
tray parts together using CA adhesive .
Make two skids by glueing the skid parts together. We provide 4 skids parts . The two skids are made
by doubling each of the two skid parts. Use CA to glue the
skid doublers. Again ensure the notches align with each
other as accurately as possible. Similarly, align and orient
the two parts of Former-A so that the holes, and the
notches align perfectly. Then glue in place.
Place the Fuselage bottom sheet on the table so that the small alignment hole is on the right
side. Place the Fuse bottom doubler and glue in place, making sure the notches and the cut
outs align properly.
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Step 3. Prepare/Hinge the Tail surfaces. 30 mins
Prepare the Elevator by drawing a line 3cm from the trailing edge. You may
adjust the line so it comes in
between two flutes, which will
enable cutting . Refer to the
hinging technique explained
earlier in the manual. Use the
knife to cut out only one side
the coro material. The idea is to
create a hinge by cutting only one side of coroplast.
Flex the joint to one side, and clear out the protruding coroplast material carefully. Add packing tape
to the joint to reinforce. Test the elevator by moving it to both sides. It should be free to move.
of
Likewise prepare the rudder by scoring a line 3.5 cm
from the aft line. Follow the same technique as with the
elevator to create the Rudder hinge.
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Step 4: Assemble the Fuselage 1 hour
Lay out the two fuselage sides as shown below. THIS IS IMPORTANT, as there
is a different left and a right side. You do NOT want to end up with 2 Left or 2
Right side fuselages. The Left side has the hatch cutout, and the right side has
the servo cutout.
Glue the Elevator Servo Doubler and the fuselage side doublers. The Fuse side doublers
must be aligned precisely with the notches, and the cutouts.There is a different Left and Right
Fuse doubler. The Right Fuse doubler has a hole.
Double check before adding glue. The Servo
doubler needs to be glued accurately too.
Lay out the Formers A,B,C,D and
E as illustrated below. Each former has
a top and a bottom side. Be sure to
align them properly as shown below.
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Using a set square to maintain 90 degrees. Glue in the Formers B,C,D and E to the Right fuse
section. Note : Former A is NOT glued at this stage
bottom sides. Take care to NOT glue the formers upside down and ensure the notches align perfectly.
. Also note that each Former has a different top and
Next, Take the Wing mount plate, and align it correctly.
Test fit it into the notches within the fuse, and the Former B
and C . Take time to fit it as accurately as possible. The Wing
mount plate fits only from one side. So be sure to align
properly. Add CA to secure the plate in position
The Wing Mount plate has to be oriented so the cut out is on the rear side.
Carefully lay the LEFT side of the fuselage over the formers and the wing mount plate.
Take time to accurately fit each of the notches in place, without crushing or damaging the coro.
Once satisfied, flow a few drops of CA in place to ONLY the joints in Former B, C and the Wing
mounting plate.
Doesn't it looks more like a plane now ?
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Place the fuselage over the flat building table to ensure it is straight, and then flow a drop of
CA to the joints of the formers C,D and E.
Put the battery strap through the hole in the battery tray. Make sure you put this in the right way .
Glue the battery tray into the right Fuselage section. Note that the notch goes towards the back.
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Install the Former A in place. Carefully align the notches and fit it in place.
The Alignment hole goes towards the bottom.
Install the fuselage base. Put the fuselage section top down, and align the notches in the fuselage
base with those of the formers and the fuse sides. The FUselage bottom should be installed such that
the FUse doubler is on the inside. Again inspect and carefully fit each joint and ensure the Coro is not
crushed or damaged . Once satisfied, add CA glue to each joint.
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Hinge the Battery hatch and Install the battery hatch and windshield.
Create a hinge on the Battery hatch, by following the hinging technique explained above. The battery
hatch has to be prepared by scoring a line 2cm from the front.
Test fit the battery hatch and windshield.
Note: Glue ONLY the front part of the hatch the rear part is left to open. Glue the windshield piece
securely.
Glue the Laser cut ply motor mount .
Be sure to align the holes accurately and glue in place
.
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Prepare the Fuselage top by glueing in the Servo doubler in place. Place the Fuse top as shown
below and glue in the doubler in place. The Servo cutout is on the LEFT side of the fuselage, but the
doubler is glued to the inside surface, so when you glue in the cutout should be on the right side as
shown below.
Align the Fuselage top with all of the formers and Fuse sides carefully. Be sure the coro is not
crushed or damaged and that each notch fits properly. When satisfied, flow a few drops of CA over
each joint. Hold in place to ensure a good, tight bond is made.
Install the stabilizer . It is very important to glue in the
Horizontal and Vertical stabilizers square and true. Take
your time to align these parts properly before adding glue.
Use the Supplied Pin and thread to ensure that the Stabiliser
is perfectly centered as shown below.
Without using any glue, slide the rudder through the notch
in the stabilizer. and carefully install the stabilizer in place.
The notches help align the parts accurately, and the rudder
goes all the way through the stabilizer down to the base of the fuselage. You also
need to measure the distance from the nose, to the tip of the stabilizer using the pin
and thread to make sure the distances are equal. Adjust till satisfied, and then
without moving anything, add glue and give it a few minutes to bond securely.
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Install the skids as shown below. Flow CA glue through the joints to ensure these are properly
glued in.
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Apply the Fuselage Decals.
From the supplied Decal sheet, cut out the Left and the right Window sets and also the square black
Windshield.
Carefully peel off from the backing and align and glue in
place as shown.
After glueing, carefully cut off the holes in the decals
where the wing mount rods will be installed.
Install the wing mounting rods
Congrats. This completes your fuselage. Hope you have enjoyed the build so far. Take a short coffee
break and we shall then get back to glue the wings together !
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The Trainer, Intermediate and the Expert wings are built similarly. Except the following
differences :
-Intermediate and Expert wing requires cutting,beveling and hinging of Ailerons
- Intermediate wing requires installing the servo in the center, after the wing build is
completed.
- Expert wing requires installing 2 servos and the necessary Control Linkages
- Expert Wing does NOT come with Dihedral braces. Also the Spar needs to be joined
differently as shown later.
The build process below is for all the three wing types. Most of the steps are common, but
pay attention to measurements, and specially the wing joining steps.
Instructions for building the Wing
We shall illustrate the steps for building the Right wing. Follow Step 5 for Left wing also.
Step 5. Laminate the Wing panels. 1 hour
Note : In order to build the wings straight and true. Please follow the
instructions below carefully. The airfoils are high performance and in order to
use them effectively, you need to ensure the wing is not warped or twisted. It
is very easy to warp the wings if the instructions below are not followed.
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NOTE: We have figured out, that it may be better to put in the decals, before the Lamination is
done. This way, the longevity of the decals is increased. So just follow the steps below, but after
sanding, install the decals first, and then laminate.
Build on a Flat table or surface
A Take out the wing cores from their beds carefully. Note that there is a Left wing and a right wing.
How do you identify ? There should be a R and a L written on the wing bed. Also, the root edges of the
Trainer and Intermediate wings are cut at an angle ( to give the necessary dihedral ). Each wing panel
has its own bed. Do NOT mix this up. Label the wings and
beds using a marker pen . You should have
Wing-L , Wing-R, Bed-L and Bed-R at the end of this step.
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B. Take out the wings from the its bed and cut the wing bed from the top to make a top and a
bottom side . Label them again. So you make a Bed-R Top and Bed-R Bottom.
C. Lightly sand the wings before laminating to get a better adhesion. Very gently and
uniformly sand using the supplied sandpaper keeping the wing panel on its bed. . Idea is to just
remove the thin outer brittle layer of foam . After sanding, clean up the wing with a cloth.
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D. Laminate the wing using the supplied sheet of lamination roll. You may need some help
(another pair of hands ) to do this cleanly.
-Place the wing on the Bottom wing bed, and start laminating from the trailing edge.
-Keep about 10mm extra on the trailing edge.
-Peel off the backing and lay down the lamination. Try to avoid forming any wrinkles. and as
you move towards the
leading edge, press the
lamination roll firmly onto
the wing.
When you reach the
leading edge, turn the
wing panel upside down,
and place it over the Top
wing bed. Continue
laminating till you reach
the trailing edge. At this
point you can remove the
Wing panel from the bed,
and trim off the excess material.
E. Install the spar (Only for the Trainer and Intermediate Wings. The Expert Wing Spar is
installed later). Keep the wing panel upside down on its corresponding bed. Ensure the bed is
on a flat surface and the wing sits in snugly.
Carefully and gently install the aluminium round spar. You may need to trim the ends of the
aluminium spar. Once satisfied, Mix some epoxy, and apply evenly across the length of the spar
and gently install in place. Make sure you lay the wing on its bed to avoid warping.
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ONLY FOR INTERMEDIATE /EXPERT WINGS: Cut out the AIlerons .
Aileron Measurements:
For Intermediate Wing: 10cm from root. 5 Cm From Tip. Aileron width 4 Cm
For Expert Wing: 12cm from root. 0Cm from tip ( extends till edge ) Aileron
Width : 4cm
Mark out the ailerons as per the above measurements and cut out using a sharp
knife. You may need to use multiple passes to cut, but be sure to cut cleanly. Also
before cutting double check measurements and also ensure both ailerons are
symmetrical.
The next step is to bevel the ailerons. Mark a 45 degree line from the top of the
aileron on the side as shown. The idea is to bevel the bottom side so that the hinge
line will be created on the top edge. Put the aileron back side up draw a line,
parallel to the length of the aileron about 1
CM behind the leading edge. Carefully cut out
the lamination material from this line. Sand
carefully so that the bevel is created uniformly
across the length of the aileron.
For Hinging, Follow these 4 steps to create a
slop free, tight and reliable hinge joint:
A. Use 3 small pieces of tape to hold the
aileron tightly in place and fully deflected in
Down position. Make sure the top line is
aligned properly
B. WHile keeping the aileron deflected apply a
length of clear tape along the joint.
C. Flip the Aileron the other side, and tape in
place using a small piece.
D. Apply some more packing take along the
joint from the other side.
Build the Ailerons
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For Intermediate/Trainer Wings : use the Laser Cut dihedral brace.
Lightly sand the root sides of the wings to ensure they fit properly. When satisfied, cut the
slots for the dihedral braces, and test fit in place. The two thicker braces go in the front , and
the thin one goes near the trailing edge. One of the thicker braces can go forward of the spar,
and the other can go behind the the spar. Place the left wing on its bed, and prop up the
other wing tip to set the correct dihedral angle (For Trainer Wing: 20Cm. For Intermediate
Wing : 9 Cm) use epoxy to glue the panels and the dihedral in place. Double check this very
carefully before gluing.After glueing, inspect the joint carefully, and apply some packing tape
to the joint to ensure it doesn’t move while the epoxy cures. Be sure to keep one wing panel
propped up.
F. Join the panels
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For Expert Wing:
The following parts are used to make the spar :
1 Nos Aluminium rod 70cm
2 Nos Aluminium rod 35cm
2 Nos wooden dowels.
We shall create a single spar by joining the two smaller aluminum
rods at each end of the longer aluminum rod. So the configuration
would be such :
Small Aluminum Rod --- Long Aluminium Rod -- Small Aluminum Rod.
Be very sure to keep the long aluminium spar in the middle.
The rods would be joined by inserting and epoxying the wooden joiner inside the aluminium
rods.
After the Spar created, test fit the spar in place and make sure the wing roots mate evenly at
the center joint. If not, then lightly sand. Once satisfied liberally, mix up some epoxy , and
coat the entire length of the spar, and also the wing root, and install/glue in place. Leave the
wing aside to cure.
Double check everything. and leave the
wing to cure. Once cured, apply some
clear packing tape over the entire
center joint, and also on the braces.
You can also put the fiberglass tape near
the root joint on the trailing edge as
shown below, The Fiberglass tape
prevents the trailing edge to be crushed
when rubber bands are mounted.:
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Installing the aileron servo For Intermediate Wing :
The Intermediate wing uses a single servo located in the center of the
wing panel on top of the wing. The servo cut out should be created
ahead of the spar and the two pushrods are angled towards each of the
ailerons. You will need to
make sure the Control
horns are installed angled
inwards to line up in a
straight line with the
control rod>
Installing the aileron servo For Expert Wing :
The expert wing requires a servo to be installed on each wing panel on the underside of the
wing. The servo should be installed about 40 cm from the root . Servo extensions should be
used to extend the wires out, and the servo wire can routed in the groove pre-cut for the
spar.
See pictures below and install the Control
horn, and linkages.
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G. Put the decals and Install the wing adapter base.
Cut the supplied decals and put them as shown here.
The last step here is
to glue the foam wing
base adaptors. The
two adaptors should
be glued to the wing
root section as shown
below. The wing
adaptors make a
perfect seat for the
wing, and are cut
precisely to give the
correct dihedral angle
and support to the
wings. Make sure the
thin sides of the
adaptor face towards
each other. You may
need to trim the leading/trailing edges of the adaptors slightly to fit the wing on the fuselage.
Whew ! Congrats your wing is now ready. Just a few more checks and we should be ready to hit
the field !
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Installing Electronics
Step 6 Install the electronics 30 mins
Center the Servos and Install the Servo Arms.
Using the RC Tx/RX, connect the servos to the Elevator/Aileron Channel
and ensure the Trims are set to Neutral. This should center the servo. At this position install the
Servo Arm, so that the arm is perfectly perpendicular to the servo. Unplug the servo from the
receiver and put the screw in place.
Glue the Servos in Place
The servo cutouts are designed to accommodate standard 9gm servos. We have kept the cout
outs a little small to allow for size variation amongst different brands. Adjust the cut out using a
knife for a snug fit.When satisfied thread the servo wires through the holes in the formers and
glue in place using little hot glue.
Tip: Wrap the servos in some packing tape before glueing to make later removal easier.
Install the Control Horns.
Install the Control Horns on the Elevator and the Rudder in the locations as shown below. The
Control horn location should be such that they are in straight line with the servo arm.
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Prepare the Control Rods.
You need to cut the supplied control rods to the correct lengths. Install the clevis on one end of the
control rod using some hot glue. Keeping the servo centered install it in the second outermost hole.
Now cut the rod about 2 Cm short of the control horn, and while keeping the control surface neutral,
glue the other clevis also.
Install the Motor/ESC and the Prop.
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Step 8. Measurement checks. 30 mins
Double check the following and adjust as needed.
1> Stabilizer A=A from Nose. Use the Pin and thread to check this
2> Wing tip B=B from Nose
3> Wing and stab parallel. Eyeball the wing and the stab from behind
the tail to check if the tail stabilizer is parallel with the wing. If not, then
put a couple of layers of paper tape to one side of the wing foam
adaptor. This is very important
4> CG Check. CG should be at the spar position Which is
approximately 65mm from the leading edge of the wing (at root ). This is
very important
5> Lateral balance check
5> Control Surface checks : Check that all surfaces are neutral. All
surfaces move in the correct directions and are not reversed and that
there is adequate throws.
This is very important
The wing is held down by the supplied 4 rubber
bands. Install two rubber bands straight, ie
parallel to the fuse and the two rubber bands
criss-cross, so that they lock down the first two
bands. Make sure your wing trailing edges have
the fiberglass tape, to avoid damage. The battery
should be installed in the front and strapped down tight. Adjust the placement of battery to get
the CG correct. Make sure the battery is securely fastened.
Step 9 . Go out and enjoy !!
But responsibly. Find out a large open field, free from trees, buildings, obstructions and people.
Ensure you comply with local regulation laws.
Before flying your model, it
is recommended you have
an experienced flier from
your region test fly the
model and trim it out for you
. In case you have no such
help, do not despair.
We suggest you go and do
some computer simulation
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practice ( Realflight G4.5 , Phoenix etc ) afterwards this airplane should be easy enough for you
to fly.
Follow all of the Preflight checks mentioned below. Double check the control surfaces. They
should all be neutral and check again for control reversing. Check for wind direction. The
airplane is always launched and landed against the wind. So move to a location in your field
from where you have a clear area ahead against the wind to launch.
To launch the plane, hold it under the wings ( near the CG ), give full power and gently toss it in
a 15 degree upwards angle. The model should go straight out on a climb. If it turns, give gentle
stick commands. Reduce throttle as need to reduce the climb rate.
Always keep the model within sight and within the confines of your flying field.
Appendix A : Field packing checklist
o Fuselage
o Wings
o Fully charged batteries
o Radio
o Neck Strap
o Battery Tester
o Toolbox containing : Screwdriver,
Allen set, Pliers, scissors, knife
o Tapes: Clear tape, FIber Tape, Double
sided, paper tape
o Adhesives: CA and 5 minute epoxy
o Extra props and prop saver rubber
bands
o First Aid kit - Believe me this is important.
Appendix B Preflight checklist
o All servos are secure, and linkages to servo and control surfaces are secure.
o Servo and control horns are secure and not loose.
o Servo linkages are able to move freely and are not binding on anything.
o All servo connections to the receiver, battery pack and ESC are secure and correct.
o The receiver and motor battery pack are securely fixed and cannot move during flight.
o Receiver antenna (aerial) is correctly positioned and not damaged.
o The propeller and its prop adaptor is securely mounted
o The wing, tailplane and the vertical fin are secured properly, as per the instructions
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1. 1) Trim in calm conditions.
2. 2) Make multiple tests before making adjustments.
3. 3) If changes are made, go over previous steps and verify or readjust as necessary.
To Test
For
Test Procedure
Observations
Adjustment
1. Control
neutrals
Fly model straight and
level
Adjust the transmitter
trims for hands off
straight and level flight
Adjust clevises to center
transmitter trims
2. Control
throws
Fly model and apply full
deflection of each control
in turn
Check the response of
each control
*Aileron Hi-rate: 3 rolls in 4
seconds.
*Lo-rate: 3 rolls in 6 seconds.
*Elevator Hi-rate: to give smooth
square corner.
*Lo-rate: to give a loop of
approx. 130' dia..
*Rudder Hi-rate: approx. 30-35
degrees for stall turns.
*Lo-rate to maintain knife edge
flight.
3.
Decalage
Power off vertical dive.
Release controls when
model is vertical (elevator
must be neutral).
A. Does the model
continue straight down?
B. Does the model start to
pull out (nose up) ?
C. Does the model start to
tuck in (nose down)?
A. No adjustment
B. Reduce incidence
C. Increase incidence
o All control surfaces move in the correct sense i.e. moving the rudder stick left moves the
rudder to the left.
o All control surface hinges are secure i.e. you can't pull the control surface away from its
respective flying surface.
o The motor power works correctly, and stops when you want it to.
o Check Motor vibration
o Check CG
o Do a Range Check
o Check battery voltage
o Check for wind direction and conditions.
Appendix 3 Trimming guide.
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4. Center
of gravity
Method 1: Roll model into
near vertically banked
turn.
Method 2: Roll model
inverted.
A. Nose drops
B. Tail drops
C. Lots of down elevator
required to maintain level
flight
D. No down elevator
required to maintain level
flight, or model climbs
A. Add weight to tail
B. Add weight to nose
C. Add weight to tail
D. Add weight to nose
5. Tip
Weight
(course
adjustme
nt)
Fly model straight and
level upright. Check that
aileron trim maintains
wings level. Roll model
inverted, wings level.
Release aileron stick
A. Model does not drop a
wing
B. Left wing drops
C. Right wing drops
A. No adjustment required
B. Add weight to right tip
C. Add weight to left tip
6. Side
Thrust
Fly model away from you
into any wind. Pull it into a
vertical climb (watch for
deviations as it slows
down).
A. Model continues
straight up
B. Model veers left
C. Model veers right
A. No adjustment needed
B. Add right thrust
C. Reduce right thrust (move
thrust line left)
7.
Up/Down
Thrust
Fly model on a normal
path into any wind.
Parallel to strip, at a
distance of around 100m
from you (elevator trim
should be neutral as per
test No.3). Pull into a
vertical climb & neutralize
elevator.
A. Model continues
straight up
B. Model pitches up (goes
towards top of model)
C. Model pitches down
(goes towards bottom of
model)
A. No adjustment needed
B. Add down thrust
C. Reduce down thrust
8. Tip
Weight
(fine
adjustme
nt)
Method 1: Fly model as
per test No.6 and pull it
into a reasonably small
dia. inside loop (1 loop
only).
Method 2: Fly the model
as per test No.6 and push
it down into an outside
loop (1 loop only & fairly
tight).
A. Model comes out with
wings level
B. Model comes out right
wing low
C. Model comes out left
wing low
A. No adjustment needed
B. Add weight to left tip
C. Add weight to right tip
9.(a)
Aileron
Fly the model towards
you, before it reaches you,
A. No heading changes
A. Differential OK
B. Increase differential
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Differenti
al
Method
1:
pull it up into a vertical
climb. Neutralize controls,
then half roll the model
B. Heading change
opposite to direction of
roll commands (ie.
heading veers to models
& your left after right roll).
C. Heading changes in
direction of roll command
C. Reduce differential
9.(b)
Aileron
Differenti
al
Method
2:
Fly the model on a normal
pass and do 3 or more
rolls
A. Roll axis on model
center line
B. Roll axis off to same
side as roll command (ie.
right roll, roll axis off right
wing tip)
C. Roll axis off to opposite
side of model as roll
command
A. Differential OK
B. Increase differential
C. Reduce differential
10.
Dihedral
Fly model on normal pass
and roll into knife-edge
flight, maintain altitude
with top rudder (do this
test in both left & right
knife-edge flight)
A. Model has no tendency
to roll out of knife-edge
flight
B. Model rolls in direction
of applied rudder
C. Model rolls in opposite
direction in both tests
A. Dihedral OK
B. Reduce dihedral
C. Increase dihedral
11.
Elevator
alignment
(for
models
with
independ
ent
elevator
halves)
Fly model as in test #6 and
pull it up into an inside
loop. Roll inverted and
repeat the above by
pushing it up into an
outside loop
A. No rolling tendency
when elevator applied
B. Model rolls in same
direction in both tests
C. Model rolls in opposite
direction in both tests
A. Elevators are in correct
alignment
B. Elevator halves misaligned.
Either raise one half or lower the
other half
C. One elevator half has more
throw than the other (model rolls
to the side with the most throw).
Reduce throw on one side or
increase throw on the other
12.
Pitching
in
knife-edg
e flight
Fly model as per test no.
10
A. There is no pitching up
or down
B. The nose pitches up
(the model climbs
laterally)
C. Nose pitches down
(model dives laterally)
A. No adjustment needed
B. Alternate cures:
1. Move the CG aft
2. Increase wing incidence
3. Add down trim to ailerons
C. Reverse the above
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