Volvo Penta D2-55, D2-75 Workshop Manual

Page 1
Workshop manual
Group 20-23, 26, 30
A
2(0)
D2-55, D2-75
Page 2
Page 3
Marine engine
Safety Precautions .............................................. 2
General information ............................................ 5
Special tools ....................................................... 9
Design and function ............................................ 10
Location of engine type signs ................................ 10
Engine introduction ............................................... 11
Component description .......................................... 16
Repair instructions .............................................. 23
General ................................................................. 23
Engine fixture, fixing ............................................. 24
Compression test .................................................. 24
Group 21: Short block
Short block, disassembly ...................................... 25
Inspecting the engine block ................................... 29
Upper block plane ................................................. 29
Cylinder bore ......................................................... 29
Cylinder head, overhaul ......................................... 30
Cylinder head, disassembly .................................. 30
Cylinder head, inspection ...................................... 30
Valve seat, replace ............................................... 31
Valves and valve seats, grinding........................... 31
Valve guides, check .............................................. 32
Rocker arm mechanism, overhaul ......................... 33
Cylinder head, assembly ....................................... 33
Crankshaft, inspection .......................................... 34
Main and big-end bearings, inspection .................. 34
Crankshaft bush, front, inspection ......................... 35
Crankshaft bush, front, replace ............................. 35
Crank bearing play, check ..................................... 36
Piston rings, inspection and adjustment ................ 37
Piston and cylinder bore, inspection and
measurement ........................................................ 37
Con rods, inspection ............................................. 38
Con rod bush, replace ........................................... 38
Piston, piston rings and con rods, installation ....... 39
Camshaft, measurement ....................................... 40
Timing gear assembly, inspection ......................... 40
Crankshaft, installation.......................................... 40
Piston, installation in cylinder ................................ 41
Camshaft, installation ........................................... 42
Cylinder head, installation ..................................... 44
Valve lifters, inspection ......................................... 47
Valves, adjustment ............................................... 49
Flywheel, replace ring gear .................................... 49
Crankshaft seal, rear, replace ............................... 50
Crankshaft seal, front, replace .............................. 50
Group 22: Lubrication system
Oil pump ............................................................... 51
Oil channels .......................................................... 54
Oil pump bearing, overhaul ...................................... 55
Group 23: Fuel system
Injection pump ...................................................... 56
Setting injection timing .......................................... 57
Setting the engine speed....................................... 59
Feed pump ............................................................ 60
Venting the fuel system ........................................ 61
Fuel filter, replace ..................................................... 63
Fuel pre-filter, drain and replace .............................. 63
Injectors ................................................................ 64
Group 26: Cooling system
Fresh water system .............................................. 67
Coolant ................................................................. 68
Draining coolant ........................................................ 69
Filling with coolant ................................................ 69
Checking the coolant level .................................... 70
Cleaning heat exchanger ....................................... 71
Circulation pump ................................................... 72
Sea water pump .................................................... 73
Thermostat ........................................................... 73
Group 30: Electrical system
Description ............................................................ 74
Important information concerning
the electrical system ......................................... 76
Fault tracing, glow plugs, charging system............ 78
Alternator .............................................................. 82
Starter motor ......................................................... 86
Electrical components ........................................... 89
Wiring diagrams .................................................... 92
Group 20: Technical data
Technical data ...................................................... 96
Wear tolerances .................................................... 100
Tightening torque .................................................. 101
Contents
Page 4
2
Safety Precautions
Introduction
This Service Manual contains technical data, descrip­tions and repair instructions for the Volvo Penta prod­ucts or product versions noted in the table of con­tents. Check that you have the correct Workshop Manual for your engine.
Read the available safety information, General Infor­mation and Repair Instructions in the Service Manual before you start to do any service work.
Important
In this book and on the product you will find the follow­ing special warning symbols.
WARNING! Possible danger of personal injury, extensive damage to property or serious me­chanical malfunction if the instructions are not followed.
IMPORTANT! Used to draw your attention to something that can cause damage or malfunc­tions on a product or damage to property.
NOTE! Used to draw your attention to important infor­mation that will facilitate the work or operation in progress.
Below is a summary of the risks involved and safety precautions you should always observe or carry out when operating or servicing the engine.
Immobilize the engine by turning off the power supply to the engine at the main switch (es) and
lock it (them) turned off before starting work. Set up a warning notice by the helm station.
As a general rule all service operations must be carried out with the engine stopped. Some work,
such as adjustments, need the engine to be run­ning, however. Approaching an engine which is running is a safety risk. Remember that loose clothing or long hair can fasten in rotating parts and cause serious personal injury. If work is done adjacent to a running engine, a careless movement or a dropped tool can lead, in the worst case, to personal injury. Be careful with hot surfaces (exhaust pipes, turbos, charge air pipes, starting heaters etc.) and hot fluids in pipes and hoses on an engine which is running or which has just stopped. Always refit shields that have been removed for service work before starting the engine.
Check that the warning or information labels on the product are always clearly visible. Replace
labels which have been damaged or painted over.
Never start the engine without installing the air cleaner filter. The rotating compressor turbine in
the turbocharger can cause severe injury. For­eign objects entering the intake ducts can also cause mechanical damage.
Never use start spray or similar products as a starting aid. They may cause an explosion in
the inlet manifold. Danger of personal injury.
Avoid opening the coolant filling cap when the en­gine is hot. Steam or hot coolant can spray out
and the system pressure will be lost. Open the filler cap slowly, and release the pressure in the cooling system if the filling cap or tap has to be opened, or if a plug or coolant hose has to be re­moved when the engine is hot. Steam or hot cool­ant might spray out in an unexpected direction.
Hot oil can cause burns. Avoid skin contact with hot oil. Ensure that the lubrication system is not
under pressure before carrying out any work. Never start or operate the engine with the oil fill­er cap removed, otherwise oil could be ejected.
Stop the engine and close the sea cocks before doing any work on the cooling system.
Only start the engine in a well- ventilated area. When operated in a confined space, exhaust
fumes and crankcase gases must be ventilated from the engine bay or workshop area.
Always use protective glasses or goggles when carrying out work where there is a risk of splin-
ters, grinding sparks, acid splashes or where other chemicals are used. Your eyes are ex­tremely sensitive, injury could cause blindness!
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3
Safety Precautions
Avoid getting oil on your skin! Repeated expo­sure to oil or exposure over a long period can re-
sult in the skin becoming dry. Irritation, dryness and eczema and other skin problems can then occur.
Used oil is more dangerous than fresh oil from a health aspect. Use protective gloves and avoid oil-soaked clothes and rags. Wash regularly, es­pecially before eating. There are special skin creams which counteract drying out of the skin and make it easier to clean off dirt after work is completed.
Most chemicals intended for the product (e.g. engine and transmission oils, glycol, petrol (gas-
oline) and diesel oil) or chemicals for workshop use (e.g. degreasers, paints and solvents) are hazardous. Read the instructions on the product packaging with care! Always follow the safety precautions for the product (for example use of protective mask, glasses, gloves etc.). Make sure that other personnel are not inadvertently exposed to hazardous chemicals, for example in the air. Ensure good ventilation in the work place. Follow the instructions provided when dis­posing of used or leftover chemicals.
Exercise extreme care when leak detecting on the fuel system and testing the fuel injector noz-
zles. Use eye protection. The jet from a fuel nozzle has very high pressure and great pene­tration power. Fuel can force its way deep into body tissue and cause severe injury. Danger of blood poisoning (septicemia).
All fuels, and many chemicals, are flammable. Do not allow naked flame or sparks in the vicini-
ty. Petrol (gasoline), some thinners and hydro­gen gas from batteries are extremely flammable and explosive when mixed with air in the correct ratio. No Smoking! Ensure that the work area is well ventilated and take the necessary safety precautions before starting welding or grinding work. Always ensure that there are fire extin­guishers at hand when work is being carried out.
Make sure that oil and fuel soaked rags, and used fuel and oil filters are stored in a safe
place. Rags soaked in oil can spontaneously ig­nite under certain circumstances. Used fuel and oil filters are polluting waste and must be hand­ed to an approved waste management facility for destruction, together with used lubrication oil, contaminated fuel, paint residue, solvents, de­greasers and wash residue.
Never expose a battery to naked flame or electrical sparks. Never smoke close to the
batteries. The batteries generate hydrogen gas when charged, which forms an explosive gas when mixed with air. This gas is easily ignited and highly volatile. A spark, which can be caused by incorrect battery connection, can cause a single spark which is sufficient to cause an explosion with resulting damage. Do not move the connections when you attempt to start the engine (risk of arcing), and do not stand and lean over one of the batteries.
Always ensure that the Plus (positive) and Mi­nus (negative) battery cables are correctly in-
stalled on the corresponding terminal posts on the batteries. Incorrect installation can result in serious damage to the electrical equipment. Re­fer to the wiring diagram.
Always use protective goggles when charging and handling the batteries. Battery electrolyte
contains sulfuric acid which is highly corrosive. Should the battery electrolyte come into contact with unprotected skin wash off immediately us­ing plenty of water and soap. If you get battery acid in your eyes, flush at once with a generous amount of water, and get medical assistance at once.
Turn the engine off and turn off the power at the main switch(es) before carrying out work on the
electrical system.
Clutch adjustments must be carried out with the engine stopped.
The existing lugs on the engine/reversing gear should be used for lifting the assembly.
Always check that the lifting equipment used is in good condition and has the load capacity to lift the engine (engine weight including gearbox, if fitted, and any extra equipment). Use an adjustable lifting beam or lifting beam specifically for the engine to raise the engine to ensure safe handling and to avoid damaging en­gine parts installed on the top of the engine. All chains and cables should run parallel to each other and as perpendicular as possible in rela­tion to the top of the engine. If other equipment connected to the engine has altered its center of gravity, special lifting devis­es may be needed to obtain the correct balance and safe handling. Never carry out work on an engine suspended on a hoist.
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4
Never work alone when removing heavy engine components, even when using lifting devices
such as locking tackle lifts. When using a lifting device two people are usually required to do the work, one to take care of the lifting device and another to ensure that components are lifted clear and not damaged during the lifting opera­tions. When you work aboard a boat, always make sure that there is enough space for disassembly where you are working, with no risk of personal injury or damage to materials.
Components in the electrical and fuel systems on Volvo Penta products have been designed to
minimize the risks of explosion and fire. The en­gine must not be run in areas where there are explosive materials.
Fuel delivery pipes must not be bent or straight­ened under any circumstances. Damaged pipes
must be replaced.
Remember the following when washing with a power washer: Never aim the water jet at seals,
rubber hoses or electrical components. Never use a power washer for engine cleaning.
Only use the fuels recommended by Volvo Pen­ta. Refer to the Operator’s Manual. Use of fuels
that are of a lower quality can damage the en­gine. On a diesel engine, poor quality fuel can cause the control rod to bind and the engine to over-rev with resulting risk of damage to the en­gine and personal injury. Poor fuel can also lead to higher service costs.
Safety Precautions
© 2006 AB VOLVO PENTA
We reserve the right to make modifications without prior notice.
Printed on environmentally compatible paper.
Page 7
5
General information
About this Service Manual
This Service Manual contains technical data, descrip­tions and repair instructions for the standard version of engine unit D2-55.
The Service Manual can illustrate tasks done on any of the engines noted above. This means that the illustra­tions and photographs which clarify certain details might not correspond with other engines in some cases. Re­pair methods are however in general, identical. If this is not the case, this will be noted and important differenc­es will be shown separately. The engine designation and engine number are given on a type plate (see page 14). The engine designation and number must always be given in all correspondence about an engine.
The Service Manual is produced primarily for the use of Volvo Penta workshops and service technicians. This assumes that people who use the Manual have basic knowledge of marine drive systems and can do the tasks of a mechanical or electrical nature associated with the trade.
Volvo Penta constantly improves its products, so we reserve the right to make modifications without prior notification. All information in this manual is based on product data which was available up to the date on which the manual was printed. Any material changes introduced into the product or service methods after this date are notified by means of Service Bulletins.
Spare parts
Spare parts for electrical and fuel systems are subject to various national safety requirements such as the US Coast Guard Safety Regulations. Volvo Penta Original Spare Parts meet these specifications. No damage whatever, occasioned by use of non-original Volvo Penta spares for the product, will be compen­sated by the warranty offered by Volvo Penta.
Certified engines
When doing service and repair on emission certified engines, it is important to be aware of the following:
Certification means that an engine type has been checked and approved by the relevant authority. The engine manufacturer guarantees that all engines made of the same type are equivalent to the certified engine.
This makes special demands on service and repair work, as follows:
Care and Service intervals recommended by Volvo
Penta must be followed.
Only Volvo Penta original spare parts may be
used.
Service to injection pumps, pump settings and in-
jectors must always be performed by an authorized Volvo Penta workshop.
The engine must not be converted or modified, ex-
cept for the accessories and service kits that Vol­vo Penta has approved for the engine.
No installation changes to the exhaust pipe and
engine air inlet ducts may be made.
Any anti-tamper seals on the engine may not be
broken by unauthorized persons.
The general advice in the instruction book about oper­ation, care and maintenance, applies.
IMPORTANT! Neglected or poorly performed care/service, as well as use of non-original
spare parts, entails that AB Volvo Penta can no longer guarantee that the engine conforms to the certified model.
Damage, injury and/or costs which arise from this will not be compensated by Volvo Penta.
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Repair procedures
The working methods described in the Service Manual apply to work carried out in a workshop. For this rea­son, the engine is lifted out of the boat and mounted on an engine support. Renovation work which does not need the engine to be lifted out can be done in situ, with the same work methods, unless otherwise specified.
Warning symbols used in this Service Manual (for full explanation of the symbols refer to the section;
“Safety Precautions”
)
WARNING!
IMPORTANT!
NOTE!
are not in any way comprehensive since it is impossible to predict every circumstance under which service work or repairs may be carried out. For this reason, all we can do is to point out the risks which we believe could occur due to incorrect work in a well­equipped workshop, using work methods and tools tested by us.
All operations described in the Service Manual for which there are Volvo Penta Special Tools available assume that these tools are used when carrying out the repair. Volvo Penta Special Tools have been specifically developed to ensure the most safe and rational working methods possible. It is therefore the responsibility of anyone using other tools or other working methods than we recommend to determine that there is no risk of personal injury or mechanical damage or malfunction as a result.
In some cases special safety precautions and user instructions may be required in order to use the tools and chemicals mentioned in the Service Manual. These rules must always be observed, so there are no special instructions about this in the Service Manual.
By following these basic recommendations and using common sense it is possible to avoid most of the risks involved in the work. A clean workplace and a clean engine will eliminate many risks of personal injury and engine malfunction.
Above all, when work on fuel systems, lubrication systems, induction systems, turbocharger, bearing caps and seals is done, it is extremely important that no dirt or other kinds of foreign particles are able to get in, since this would otherwise cause malfunctions or shortened repair life.
Our common responsibility
Each engine consists of a large number of collaborating systems and components. Any deviation of a component from its technical specification can dramatically increase the environmental impact of an otherwise good engine. For this reason, it is extremely important that specified wear tolerances are maintained, that systems with adjustment facilities are correctly adjusted and that Volvo Penta Original Spares are used for the engine. The stated service intervals in the Maintenance Schedule must be observed.
Some systems, such as the components in the fuel system, require special expertise and special testing equipment for service and maintenance. Some components are sealed at the factory, for environmental reasons etc. It is only permissible to work on sealed components if you are authorized to do such work.
Remember that most chemical products, incorrectly used, damage the environment. Volvo Penta recommends the use of biodegradable degreasers whenever engine components are de-greased, unless otherwise specified in the Service Manual. When working aboard a boat, be careful to ensure that oils, wash residue etc. are processed for destruction, and are not inadvertently discharged with bilge water into the environment.
Tightening torque
The tightening torque for critical joints that shall be tightened with a torque wrench, are listed in ”Specifications: Tightening torque” and noted in the job descriptions in the book. All torque specifications apply to clean screws, screw heads and mating faces. Torque data stated apply to lightly oiled or dry threads. Where grease, locking or sealing agents are required for screwed joints, this is stated in both the operation description and in “Torque”. Where a particular torque value is not specified for any faste­ner, the general tightening torque in the table below shall apply. The torque specification is a target value and the fastener does not need to be tightened with a torque wrench.
Dimension Tightening torque
Nm lbf.ft
M5 6 4.4 M6 10 7.4 M8 25 18.4 M10 50 36.9 M12 80 59.0 M14 140 103.3
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Repair instructions
Torque-angle tightening
With torque/angle tightening, the fastener is tightened to the specified torque, and tightening then continues through a pre-determined angle. Example: for 90° angle tightening, the fastener is turned a further 1/4 turn in one sequence, after the specified tightening torque has been achieved.
Lock nuts
Disassembled locknuts shall not be re-used, they shall be replaced by new ones, since the locking properties are impaired or lost when the nut is used several times. For locknuts with plastic inserts, i.e. Nylock® the tightening-torque given in the table shall be reduced if the Nylock®-nut has the same nut height as a standard all-metal hex-nut. Reduce the torque by 25% for screw size 8 mm or larger. Where Nylock
®
nuts are higher, i.e. the metallic thread is of the same height as a standard hexagonal nut, the torque given in the table apply.
Strength classes
Screws and nuts are sub-divided into different strength classes. Classification is indicated by markings on the screw head. A marking with higher number indicates stronger material. For example, a screw marked 10-9 is stronger than one marked 8-8. For this reason, when fasteners are removed, it is important that the screws are put back in the correct places when they are re-installed. If a screw must be replaced, check in the spare parts catalogue to make sure the correct screw is used.
Sealant
Several different types of sealant and locking fluids are used on the engine. The properties of the preparations differ, and they are intended for different strengths of fastener, temperature, resistance to oil and other chemicals, and for the different materials and gap thicknesses found in the engine.
To ensure service work is correctly carried out it is important that the correct sealant and locking fluid type is used on the joint where the agents are required.
In this Service Manual, the user will find that each section where these agents are applied in production states which type was used on the engine.
In service work, the same preparations or preparations of corresponding properties, but of other makes, shall be used.
When sealants and locking fluids are used, it is important that the surfaces are free from oil, grease, paint and rust-protection, and that they are dry.
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for use regarding temperature range, curing time and any oth­er instructions for the product.
Two different basic types of agent are used on the engine. These are:
RTV preparations (Room Temperature Vulcanizing). Used for gaskets, sealing gasket joints or coating gaskets. RTV is visible when a part has been disassembled; old RTV must be removed before resealing the joint.
The following RTV preparations are mentioned in the workshop manual: Loctite® 574, Silicone GE RTV1473W, Permatex® No. 3, Volvo Penta 1161099­5, Permatex® No 77. Old sealant can be removed using denatured alcohol in all cases.
Anaerobic agents. These agents cure in the absence of air. These preparations are used when two solid components, such as two cast components, are fitted together without a gasket. Common uses are also to lock and seal plugs, stud threads, taps, oil pressure monitors etc. Hardened anaerobic preparations are glassy and for this reason, the preparations are colored to make them visible. Hardened anaerobic preparations are highly resistant to solvents, and old compound can not be removed. On re-installation, degrease carefully and then apply new sealant.
The following anaerobic preparations are mentioned in the workshop manual: Loctite® 572 (white color).
NOTE: Loctite® is a registered trademark belonging to the Loctite Corporation, Permatex® is a registered trademark belonging to the Permatex Corporation.
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Repair instructions
Safety rules for Fluorocarbon rubber
Fluorocarbon rubber is a common material in seal rings for shafts, and in O-rings, for example.
When fluorocarbon rubber is subjected to high tempe­ratures (above 300°C), hydrofluoric acid can be for­med, which is highly corrosive. Contact with the skin can result in severe chemical burns. Splashes in your eyes can result in severe chemical burns. If you brea­the in the fumes, your lungs can be permanently damaged.
WARNING! Be very careful when working on engines which have been exposed to high temperatures, e.g. overheating during a seizure or fire. Seals must never be cut with a flame torch during disassembly, or burned in uncontrolled circumstances afterwards.
Always use gloves made of chloroprene rubber (gloves for handling chemicals) and protective goggles.
Handle the removed seal in the same way as corrosive acid. All residue, including ash, can be highly corrosive. Never use compressed air to blow anything clean.
Put the remains in a plastic jar which is sealed and provided with a warning label. Wash the gloves under running water before removing them.
The following seals are most probably made from fluorocarbon rubber:
Seal rings for the crankshaft, camshaft and drive shafts.
O-rings, regardless of where they are installed. O­rings for cylinder liner sealing are almost always made of fluorocarbon rubber.
Note that seals which have not been subjected to high temperature can be handled normally.
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Special tools
Wherever feasible, the tool numbers have been punched on the tools.
856 927
885 252
885 820 9812519
999 6662
999 9179
384 9641
885 485
856 927 Plastigauge, for measuring main and big-
end bearing play
884 892 Regulator tester
885 023 Valve spring compressor
885 252 Adapter for testing compression pressure
885 484 Adapter for testing compression pressure
885 485 Engine fixture for overhaul stand
885 820
1)
Puller for pulleys
885 822 Magnetic pen
885 498 Pressure foot (used together with valve
spring compressor 885 023)
981 2519 Multimeter
998 8539 Compression tester
998 9876 Dial indicator
999 5919 Puller, seals
999 6662 Pressure testing equipment
999 9179 Wrench for removing fuel/oil filters
999 9684 Rocker indicator
999 9696 Magnetic stand
999 9772 Injector tester
384 9641 Assembly tool for oil pump shaft
998 6485 or 999 2520 Overhaul stand
1)
This tool is used with one or more of Volvo Penta’s older products
998 8539
885 822
999 9772
998 9876
999 9696
998 6485 or 999 2520
999 9683
884 892
885 484885 023
885 498
999 5919
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10
Design and function
Location of information decals and type plates
There are type plates on the engine and transmission, marked with identification numbers. This information must always be used a reference when spare parts are ordered. The appearance and location of the type plates is shown below. The figures in brackets refer to the location of the identification number on the type plate.
Engine
Product designation (1) .......................................................................................................
Serial number (2) .................................................................................................................
Product number (3) .............................................................................................................
Certification number (4) .......................................................................................................
S-drive / Reverser
Product designation (5) ........................................................................................................
Serial number (6) ..................................................................................................................
Product number (7) ..............................................................................................................
Gear ratio (8) ........................................................................................................................
Propeller designation ............................................................................................................
Engine plate
Engine and transmission decal
XXXXXX (7)
XXX (5)
XXXXXXXXXX (6)
XX (8)
S-drive and reversing gear sign
Page 13
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Design and function
Engine introduction
D2-55 A/B with reverser MS25L
5
3 2
D2-55 A/B with reverser MS25L
13 12
15
6 11
1
14
7
8
10 9
4
D2-55 A/B with reverser HS25A
1
5
7
D2-55 A/B with reverser HS25A
15
14
9 2 3
13
10
6 4 8
11
12
1. Coolant filling
2. Heat exchanger
3. Relay box with fuses
4. Alternator
5. Starter motor
6. Oil cooler, reversing gear
7. Oil dipstick, reverser/S-drive
8. Air filter/Air intake
9. Oil dipstick, engine
10. Oil filler, engine
11. Fuel pump
12. Oil filter
13. Fuel filter
14. Injection pump
15. Sea water pump
Page 14
12
Design and function
1. Coolant filling
2. Heat exchanger
3. Relay box with fuses
4. Alternator
5. Starter motor
7. Oil dipstick, reverser/S-drive
8. Air filter/Air intake
9. Oil dipstick, engine
10. Oil filler, engine
11. Fuel pump
12. Oil filter
13. Fuel filter
14. Injection pump
15. Sea water pump
16. Cooling water inlet, S-drive
17. Sea cock, S-drive
18. Folding propeller
19. Sacrificial anodes
20. Oil drain, S-drive
D2-55 A/B with sail-drive MS25S
D2-55 A/B with sail-drive MS25S
18
16
1 3
5
17
2
4
12
8
10
7
19 20
9
13 14
15
11
Page 15
13
Design and function
18
16
1
3
5
17
2
4
12
8
10
7
19 20
9
13 14
15
11
1. Coolant filling
2. Heat exchanger
3. Relay box with fuses
4. Alternator
5. Starter motor
7. Oil dipstick, reverser/S-drive
8. Air filter/Air intake
9. Oil dipstick, engine
10. Oil filler, engine
11. Fuel pump
12. Oil filter
13. Fuel filter
14. Injection pump
15. Sea water pump
16. Cooling water inlet, S-drive
17. Sea cock, S-drive
18. Folding propeller
19. Sacrificial anodes
20. Oil drain, S-drive
D2-55 C with sail-drive 130S D2-55 C with sail-drive 130S
Page 16
14
Design and function
D2-75 A with reverser HS25A D2-75 A with reverser HS25A
D2-75 A with reverser MS25L
7
23
D2-75 A with reverser MS25L
6
1
8
5
4
15 14
17
13
16
9
10
12 11
7
23
9
1
8
5
4
17
16
11
15
12
6
10
13 14
Page 17
15
Design and function
D2-75 A with sail-drive 150S
20
18
19
14
10
12
9
21 22
11
15
16
17
13
D2-75 A with sail-drive 150S
7
23
1
8
5
4
1. Coolant filling
2. Relay box with fuses
3. Heat exchanger
4. Charge air cooler
5. Turbo
6. Oil cooler, reversing gear
7. Starter motor
8. Alternator
9. Oil dipstick, reverser/S-drive
10. Air filter/Air intake
11. Oil dipstick, engine
12. Oil filler, engine
13. Fuel pump
14. Oil filter
15. Fuel filter
16. Injection pump
17. Sea water pump
18. Cooling water inlet, S-drive
19. Sea cock, S-drive
20. Folding propeller
21. Sacrificial anodes
22. Oil drain, S-drive
Page 18
16
Design and function
Component description
Cylinder head
The cylinder head is made from specially alloyed cast iron. It has replaceable valve seats for inlet and ex­haust valves on D2-55 A/B/C and for exhaust valves on D2-75 A.
Engine block
The cylinder block is cast in one piece from specially alloyed cast iron.
Flywheel
An elastic coupling with a rubber damping element is screwed onto the flywheel. The coupling transfers the
power to the reverser/S-drive.
Timing gear
The timing gears comprise both straight-cut and heli­cal gears.
The camshaft and sea water pump are driven from the crankshaft gear via an idler gear. The engine’s lubrica­tion pump is integral with the idler gear, and is driven by it. Regulator weights are suspended on the front of the camshaft gear.
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17
Design and function
Camshaft
The camshaft is of conventional design with eight lobes that operate the pushrods and valves.
Crankshaft
The crankshaft is suspended in five main bearings. Axial thrust is taken up by separate thrust washers placed on the rear main bearing. The crankshaft is statically and dynamically balanced, and has induc­tion hardened bearing surfaces. The front end of the crankshaft has a Woodruff key and the rear end has a flange upon which the flywheel is mounted.
Main and big-end bearings
The main and big-end bearings comprise steelshells lined with bearing metal. The bearings are precision made and are ready to be installed.
The thrust washers for the crankshaft axial bearings are not available in oversize.
Con rods
The con rods are of I-section. The small end is drilled for gudgeon pin lubrication.
Pistons, piston rings
The pistons are made from aluminum alloy. They are fitted with three piston rings (chrome plated) – two compression rings and an oil ring.
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18
Design and function
Cooling system, general
The engine is fresh water cooled with a closed cooling system. The system is divided into two circuits.
In the inner circuit, the fresh watersystem, coolant is pumped around by a circulation pump, driven via a belt from the crankshaft pulley.
The fresh water system works under pressure, thus reducing the risk of boiling if the temperature becomes high. If the pressure becomes excessive, a pressure valve opens in the filler cap.
The coolant temperature is regulated by a thermostat.
The flow in the sea water system is accomplished by a gear-driven impeller pump.
The heat exchanger transfers heat from the coolant to the sea water.
As extra equipment, the engine can be equipped with a separate expansion tank.
Thermostat
The engine is equipped with a thermostat whose sen­sor body contains wax.
When the engine is cold, the thermostat closes the way to the heat exchanger. Coolant then passes through a by-pass pipe, back directly to the suction side of the pump. As the engine warms up, the vol­ume of the wax increases and the thermostat progres­sively opens the passage to the heat exchanger, at the same time as the by-pass channel is closed.
Please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter for open­ing temperatures.
Sea water pump
The sea water pump is driven by the gears in the tim­ing gear. The impeller (pump wheel) is made from rub­ber and is replaceable.
NOTE! The impeller will be damaged if the pump is run dry.
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19
Design and function
Fuel system, general
The fuel is sucked from the fuel tank by the feed pump, through a water separator/pre-filter (extra equip.) and is pressed through a fine filter to the injec­tion pump.
Return fuel from the injectors is fed through return fuel lines, back to the tank.
Injection pump
The injection pump is an in-line flange mounted pump. The pump is driven by cams on the engine’s cam­shaft, which operates the pump chambers directly.
Centrifugal regulator
The regulator is mechanical and works with speed­sensitive regulator weighs. It is mounted on the front of the camshaft gear, from where it is also driven.
The regulator weights operate the injector pump con­trol rod via the regulation sleeve, a lever and a regula­tor arm. The engine speed is regulated throughout the entire range, from low idle to high idle (all-speed type).
1. Fuel tank 5. Fuel fine filter
2. Primary filter 6. Injection pump
3. Water separator 7. Injectors
4. Feed pump
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20
Design and function
Feed pump
The feed pump is driven by an eccentric on the cam­shaft rear end. The pump on D2-55 A/B is also equipped with a manual hand pump.
Injectors
The engines is provided with pintle - type injectors. Each injector basically consists of a nozzle retainer and a nozzle.
When the fuel pressure increases to the set value (opening pressure), the injector needle which is held pressed against its seat by the compression spring is lifted and atomized fuel is injected into the precom­bustion chamber of the engine.
The opening pressure of the injector is determined by the compression spring which is adjustable with shims.
Fuel filter
The fuel filter is discardable. The filter insert is a pa­per filter.
1. Injector nut 6. Adjustment shims
2. Injectors 7. Injector holder
3. Joining piece 8. Washer
4. Compression screw 9. Nut
5. Spring
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Page 23
21
Design and function
Lubrication system, general
The engine has a pressurized lubrication system with full-flow oil filter.
Oil pump
The lubrication pump is located within the idler gear on the timing gears, from where it is also driven.
The pump is a rotor pump, with an inner rotor and an outer rotor, eccentrically mounted in relation to each other. The inner rotor has one “tooth” less than the outer rotor.
The function of the pump is that the volume of the spaces between the inner and outer gears increases and decreases. During the first section of the rotation of the inner rotor, the volume increases, a partial vac­uum occurs and oil is sucked into the inlet. After about a half rotation, the volume is reduced and a pressure occurs, which forces the oil out through the outlet.
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22
Design and function
Reduction valve
The lubricating oil pressure is limited by a reduction valve. The valve is located in the lubricating system just before the oil filter. The valve opens with high pressure and allows the oil to flow back into the sump.
Crankcase breather
To prevent over-pressure and to separate fuel vapor, water vapor and other gaseous combustion products, the engine is fitted with closed crankcase ventilation.
Oil filter
The filter is a full flow filter, which means that all the oil is filtered before it is forced out into the lubrication system.
The filter element consists of folded filter paper.
There is a bypass valve (A) at the base of the filter, which opens and allows oil to flow past the filter if the filter insert should become blocked.
A
D2-55A/B/C
D2-75A
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23
General
A condition test should be done before each major service activity, if possible, to determine the general condition of the engine and discovery any concurrent fault causes. A condition test requires the engine to be run, so this should be done before the engine or any engine components are disassembled.
Please refer to “Condition test, engine”.
Repair instructions
Measures before overhaul in boat
1 Remove battery power.
2 Clean the outside of the engine.
NOTE! Make sure that wash residue is collected for destruction and does not inadvertently end up in the water. Also refer to the warning text under “Actions after lifting the engine”.
3 Work involving the cooling system: Close the sea
cocks and drain the coolant from the sea water and fresh water systems.
WARNING! Make sure that all sea water inlets are securely closed, so that water cannot find
its way in during disassembly of cooling system sub-components.
Actions before lifting the engine from the boat
1 Lift the boat ashore.
2 Disconnect battery power, remove battery con-
nection on the starter motor.
3 Disconnect the engine-
instrument cable harness connector.
4 Disconnect the sea water connection/keel-cooling
connection.
5 Remove the exhaust system.
6 Close the fuel stopcocks. Remove the fuel con-
nections.
7 Disconnect the throttle and gearshift wires.
8 Disconnect the propshaft from the reverser. Undo
the engine mounting pads from the bed and lift the engine out.
Actions after lifting the engine
1 Clean the engine.
IMPORTANT! Remember the following when washing with a power washer: Be extremely
careful when cleaning, to avoid getting water in­side engine components. When a power washer is used, the water jet must never be aimed at seals, such as shaft seals, joints with gaskets, rubber hoses or electrical components.
2 Drain the engine oil.
3 Remove the reverser (if required).
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24
Repair instructions
Condition test, engine
Compression test
Special tools: 885 484, 885 252 and 998 8539
A compression test is done, which shows the sealing of the cylinders and valves, to assess the condition of the engine in a simple, reliable manner.
• Warm the engine up, then stop it.
• Remove all the injectors and test each of the cylin-
ders in turn.
IMPORTANT! Observe the greatest possible cleanliness, to avoid getting dirt in the fuel sys-
tem. Plug the connections for the disassembled injectors and fuel pipes.
The compression pressure shall be read off at normal starter motor speed, refer to “Technical data”.
Low combustion pressure in all cylinders indicates worn cylinder bores and piston rings. If one cylinder has lower compression pressure than the others, the reason can be poor valve sealing, broken piston rings or a damaged cylinder head gasket.
Insert adapter nos. 885 484 and 885 252 in the injec­tor hole. Install a compression gauge 998 8539 in the adapter, and carry out the compression test.
Engine fixture, fixing
Special tools: 885 485, 998 6485 or 856 927
Use fixture 885 485 to attach the engine to overhaul stand 998 6485 or 856 927.
The fixture is attached to the right side of the engine as illustrated below.
NOTE! It is important that the instructions regarding number of attachment bolts and sizes are followed to ensure secure engine attachment.
Bolts required:
1 pcs M10 x 35 mm
3 pcs M14 x 1.5 x 35 mm
Before the engine fixture can be mounted and the en­gine attached to the overhaul stand, the right front en­gine mounting, oil dipstick tube, oil cooler with oil filter and turbo oil pipe (D2-75), must be removed from the engine.
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25
Group 21 Short block
Short block, disassembly
Special tools: 885 510, 885820, 885822
Empty the oil and water from the engine.
Lift the engine with a suitable lifting device. Installing the engine fixture, please refer to “Engine fixture, fixing”.
1. Remove the exhaust bend (1).
2. Remove the induction silencer (2).
3. Remove the turbo (3) with associated oil return pipe (only D2-75).
4. Remove the electronics box (4) complete with ca­bling.
5. Remove the starter motor (5) and alternator (6) and front left engine mounting.
6. Remove the coolant hoses (7), heat exchanger (8), sea water pump (9) and circulation pump (10).
7. Remove the charge air cooler (11) and oil pipe to the turbo (only D2-75).
6
2
3
1
5
4
9
11
10
8
7
7
7
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26
Group 21 Short block
8. Remove (13) oil pressure monitor and oil pressure pipe (12) to the cylinder head.
9. Remove the fuel lines (14) between the injection pump, fuel filter and feed pump.
WARNING! Observe the greatest possible cleanliness in work on the fuel system. Watch
out for fuel spillage, diesel oil is hazardous on repeated skin contact.
10. Remove the supply pipes (15) between the fuel pump and injectors, use the nut on the return fuel line as a counterhold so as not to bend the pipes. Remove the fuel supply pipes and put them on a clean, dry surface.
11. Remove the return fuel pipe (16) and the injectors.
IMPORTANT! Observe the greatest possible cleanliness, to avoid getting dirt in the fuel sys-
tem. Plug the fuel pump and injector connec­tions with suitable plugs, for example kit number
885510.
12. Remove the fuel filter and bracket (17), feed pump (18) and the nipple to the injection pump.
14
18
17
19
16
15
12
13
13. Remove the injection pump (19). Remove the fix­ing screws and nuts on the pump. Turn the stop lever clockwise and carefully lift the pump, to make the lock clip on the regulator arm accessi­ble.
Remove the lock clip and free the regulator arm.
IMPORTANT! Be careful when disassembling the injection pump, avoid damaging or bending
the lever.
NOTE! Retain any shims from beneath the injection pump flange. Use the same thickness of shims when re-installing, unless the camshaft, engine block or in­jection pump have been changed.
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Group 21 Short block
14. Remove the rocker cover, power rail and glow plugs.
15. Remove the lower part of the rocker cover with in­tegrated rocker arm bridge. Start by unscrewing the two M6 screws at the outer edge, then loosen the rocker arm bridge nuts half a turn at a time, until the rocker arms are no longer under load.
16. Prepare a stand, marked with cylinder numbers. If the rocker arms, valve caps, pushrods and valve lifters are to be re-used, these must be fitted in their original positions.
Lift the push rods and valve caps out and put in them in number sequence in the marked stand.
17. Loosen the bolts in the opposite tightening se­quence (refer to “Installing cylinder head”). Re­move the cylinder head.
18. Remove the valves, if these are to be re-used, they must be fitted in their original positions. Spe­cial tool magnetic pen, part number 885 822.
19. Remove the crankshaft sensor, flywheel casing and vibration damper.
NOTE! To reduce the risk of damage to the crankshaft sensor, this should be removed before the flywheel casing is removed.
20. Mark the position of the flywheel on the crank­shaft. Remove the flywheel.
22. Remove the inner flywheel casing and the rear shaft seal.
23. Remove the pulley, use special tool 885 820 and 3 pcs. M10x40 mm bolts. Remove the timing gear cover. Load the stop arm so that the springs on the inside of the housing do not come out of posi­tion or spring out.
18
17
16
15
14
1312
11
10
98
7
6
54
3
2
1
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28
Group 21 Short block
24. Remove the idler lock ring. Save the sleeve wash­er, spring and shims.
Lift away the idler gear complete with cover and oil pump. Note the thrust washer behind the oil pump.
25. Remove the camshaft and gear. Remove the screws from the locking plate, the screws are ac­cessible through a hole in the camshaft gear.
Lift out the camshaft complete with gear and regu-
lator weights.
NOTE! Take care so that bearings, journals and cam lobes are not damaged.
26. Remove the timing gear plate.
27. Invert the engine and remove the sump together with the external oil pipe. Remove the oil strainer and suction pipe.
28. Scrape away the carbon from the top of the cylin­ders to simplify disassembly. Check that the con­rod caps are marked so that they can be reas­sembled correctly. Remove the con rod caps and push out the pistons.
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Group 21 Short block
Inspecting the engine block
Upper block plane
Check that the upper engine block plane does not have any cracks or other damage. Also check that it is not warped (in the same way as for the cylinder head).
Max warpage, please refer to “Technical Data”. Change the engine block if it is outside the tolerances.
Cylinder bore
Check that the cylinder bores are not scored or dam­aged in other ways.
Measure the cylinder bores at the upper and lower turning positions for the piston rings (app 10 mm and 100 mm below the engine block plane) and also in the middle. Measurement should be done with an internal dial gauge and both along and transverse to the en­gine block (A and B).
Concerning max. permitted cylinder diameter, see un­der “Wear tolerances” in Technical data.
29. Remove the oil pressure valve to allow removal of the crankshaft and simplify flushing of the oil channels.
IMPORTANT! Check that the oil pressure valve on the right side of the block is removed before
removing the crankshaft.
NOTE! Tape the crankshaft gear to protect the bearing surfaces in the block during disassembly.
30. Remove the locking screws holding the main bearing caps. Lift the crankshaft out carefully, complete with caps, backwards.
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Group 21 Short block
Cylinder head, overhaul
Disassembling cylinder head
Special tools: 885 023, 885 498
1. Remove the valves (1) and valve springs (3). Compress the springs with compressor 885 023 together with pressure foot 885 498 and remove the valve cotters (5). Place the valves in order in a marked valve holder, so they can be refitted in their original positions. Remove the valve stem seals (2).
2. Clean all components. Be especially careful with the cylinder head oil and coolant channels.
3. Remove any remaining carbon/deposit from the cylinder head sealing surface.
Note. A wire brush may not be used for cleaning the cylinder head bolt threads or the underside of the bolt heads.
FBE
ACD
Inspecting the cylinder head
Cylinder head warping must not exceed the value giv­en in “Technical data”. The check should be done with a feeler gauge and a straight edge. Measurement is done at six positions (A - F).
If warpage above the permissible level is found, the cylinder head must be changed. If leakage has been found, or if the cylinder head has blow lines, no spe­cial measurement is needed since such a cylinder head will have to be attended to in any case.
Check the valve seats and check that the studs are firmly seated.
Inspect the cylinder head for cracks. Carefully check the areas around the valve seats and the holes for the injector nozzles.
885 023885 498
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Group 21 Short block
Changing the valve seats
NOTE! On D2-75 only the inlet valve seat can be
changed. On D2-55 both the inlet and exhaust valve seats can be changed.
The valve seat should be changed when the distance “A” measured with a new valve exceeds 1.8 mm.
1. Remove the old valve seat by heating it with a gas flame (600-700 oC) diagonally across the seat.
Let the cylinder heat cool for 3-5 min in the air. Then carefully tap the seat out with a mandrel (check that the cylinder head is not damaged).
The valve seat can also be milled out (check that the cylinder head is not damaged).
2. Carefully clean the valve seat bed in the cylinder head. Check the cylinder head for cracks.
3. Cool the new seat with dry ice or similar to minus 60-70 oC and heat the cylinder head to approx. 60-100 oC.
4. Press the seats into the cylinder head. Use a hy­draulic press and a suitable mandrel.
5. Machine the seats to the correct angle and width.
A
Grinding of valve and valve seats
Special tools: 885 023, 885 498
1. Use valve spring compressor 885 023 and pres­sure foot 885 498 to remove the valve cotters. Remove the valve washers, springs and valves. Place the parts in the correct order in a valve holder. Remove the valve stem seals.
2. Clean the components.
3. Check valve stem wear. Measure the diameter with a micrometer at points I, II and III.
Diameter, min. inlet: 6.89 mm
Diameter, min. exhaust: 6.84 mm
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Group 21 Short block
4. Grind the valves in a valve grinding machine.
Grind the sealing surface as little as possible, just enough to “clean” it up. If the edge of the valve head (B) after grinding is less than 0.5 mm, the valve must be scrapped. Equally, any valve with a bent valve stem must be scrapped.
5. Check the wear of the valve guides (refer to “Check of valve guides”) before machining the valve seats.
6. Mill the valve seats. When machined, only re­move enough material to give the valve seat the correct shape and a good mating surface.
Note. Do not grind so much that the valve depth ex­ceeds the permissible value. Please refer to “Chang­ing the valve seats”.
New valve seats shall be milled down so far that the distance between the cylinder head plane and the valve head surface (A) is 0.65-0.95 mm
7. Grind the valves in with grinding paste, and check contact with marker dye.
8. Install the seals, valves, valve springs, spring washers, valve cotters and valve caps. Refer to “Assembly of cylinder head”.
Checking the valve guides*
Special tools: 999 9683, 999 9696
1 Put the cylinder head on the bench, and put
valves in the valve guides.
2 Measure the wear with rocker indicator 999 9683
and magnetic stand 999 9696.
Lift each valve about 2 mm from its seat, put the measurement tip on the edge of the valve head and check the wear.
Permissible clearance between valve and valve guide:
Inlet valve, max clearance 0.20 mm
Exhaust valve, max clearance 0.25mm
* Note. Since the valve guides are machined directly in the
cylinder head, the cylinder head must be changed when the clearance is too great, even when the valve is new.
A
B
45
o
45
o
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Group 21 Short block
Overhauling the rocker arm mechanism
Special tools: 999 6400
1. Remove the screw from the front edge of the rocker arm shaft. Screw an M8 bolt into the rocker arm shaft. Grab the bolt with i.e. a pair of pliers and pull the rocker arm shaft out.
2. Disassemble the rocker arm mechanism. Remove the rocker arms, springs and washers.
3. Clean the components. Be especially careful with the rocker arm shaft oil channels and the oil holes in the rocker arms
4. Check the wear of the rocker arm shaft with a mi­crometer.
5. Check that the rocker arm bearing surface is not worn oval. Check the clearance between rocker arm and shaft.
Check that the spherical section of the adjust­ment screw is not deformed or worn. The threads on the pin and lock nut should be undamaged. The lock nut should be in good condition.
6. Oil the rocker arm shaft and assemble the various parts.
Assembly of cylinder head
Special tools: 885 023, 885 498
1. Press the new valve stem seals onto the valve guides.
Note. The seals for the inlet and exhaust valve guides are different. The inlet valve seal has a silver spring while the exhaust valve seal’s spring is black.
2. The valves must be installed in the correct order. Oil the valve stems and install one valve (1) in it’s guide. Place the valve spring (2) and spring wash­er (3) in place and compress the spring with valve spring compressor 885 023 and pressure foot 885
498. Install the valve cotters (4).
Be careful when mounting the valves and when compressing the springs, so that the valve stem seals are not damaged. Check that the valve cot­ters are properly seated.
3. Install the valve caps (5) once all the valves are fitted.
4. Mount new core plugs if these have been re­moved.
5. Install the glow plugs. Tightening torque, please re­fer to “Technical Data”. Install the power rail.
1
2
3
4
5
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Group 21 Short block
Inspecting the crankshaft
Clean the crankshaft carefully in all channels after dis­assembly and inspect thoroughly to determine if over­haul is really necessary.
1. Check wear and ovality with a micrometer. Mea­sure the diameters “A-A” and “B-B” at points “1” and “2”.
Max. permissible taper and ovality in the main and big-end journals is 0.05 mm*. Grind the crank­shaft to a suitable undersize dimension, if these values are exceeded. Bearing shells are available in two oversizes.
NOTE! Check first which oversize bearing shells are available for the engine type in question.
2. Measure lengthwise crookedness in the crank­shaft (runout). Lay the crankshaft on a pair of V­blocks placed under the front and rear main bear­ing journals. Alternately, the crankshaft can be set up between centers. Measurements shall be done on the center main bearing journal(s).
Max. lengthwise crookedness (runout) refer to “Wear tolerances”. If these values are exceeded, the crankshaft must be straightened or replaced.
3. Check that the crankshaft seal mating surfaces on the crankshaft are not worn or damaged.
* Max. wear, refer to “Technical data”.
Inspection of main and big end bearings
Check the main and big-end bearing shells and the front crankshaft bush. Change worn bearing shells, or any with damaged bearing surfaces.
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35
Group 21 Short block
Inspection of front crankshaft bush
Check the bearing play between the crankshaft journal and the bush. Use both internal and external microme­ters.
1. Measure the bushes inner diameter at points 1 and 2. Measure in two directions (“A” and “B”) at each point.
2. Measure the bearing journal outer diameter and calculate the bearing play (difference between pre­vious measurement and max. diameter of the bearing journal).
Max bearing clearance, please refer to “Technical Data”.
Change the bush if the clearance exceeds the permissible value. If necessary, the crankshaft can be ground to a suitable undersize and the bush replaced with a corresponding oversize.
Check the bearing play again before the crank­shaft is installed, if grinding has been performed.
Replacement of front crankshaft bush
1. Remove the bush from the cylinder block.
2. Check that the bush contact surface in the hous­ing has no burrs or deformities.
3. Mark a line across the hole in the housing and the bush with a marker pen. Oil the outside of the bush and the contact surface in the housing.
4. Place the bush (1) in the cylinder housing.
IMPORTANT! Place the bush so that the oil hole is correctly positioned in the cylinder block. The oil groove (2) in the bush must be furthest in.
Tap the bushing in with a suitable mandrel (3) until it lines up with the cylinder block.
5. Check that the oil channels are open are pressing in. Check also that the inner diameter of the bush is the same as the crankshaft diameter.
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Group 21 Short block
Checking the big end bearing clearance
Special tools: 856 927
The big-end bearing radial play can be checked by us­ing plastigauge 856 927 as follows:
1. Wipe off any oil from the big end bearing and big end journal. Apply a piece of plastigauge the same length as the width of the bearing along the big-end journal. Avoid the oil hole.
2. Mount the con rod and bearing cap (observe the markings) and tighten the conrod bolts.
Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
NOTE! Do not rotate the con rod or crankshaft during measurement, since this spoils the measurement strip.
3. Remove the big end cap and measure the width of the pressed-out measurement putty at the widest point. Use the scale supplied with the plastigauge.
Max permissible big end bearing clearance, please refer to the “Technical Data”.
Change the big-end bearing if the bearing clearance exceeds the permissible value. The big-end journal can be ground to an undersize if required and a corresponding oversize bearing shell fitted. The big-end bearings are available in two oversizes.
NOTE! After grinding the bearing journals, check the bearing clearance again before assembly.
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Group 21 Short block
Piston ring inspection and adjustment
1. Remove the piston rings with piston ring pliers.
2. Remove the gudgeon pin circlips and remove the gudgeon pin carefully, with a suitable mandrel.
3. Check that the rings do not bind in the ring grooves.
4. Check the piston ring gap. Push the ring down be- low the lower turning point with a piston. Change the piston ring if the gap exceeds 1.0 mm.
Check the piston ring gap with new rings. Please refer to the “Technical Data, specifications” chap­ter for measurements.
In general, piston rings should be changed if there is any noticeable wear or out-of-roundness in the cylinders, since the piston rings frequently do not end up in the same positions as they had before disassembly.
Oil consumption is also of decisive importance for the point in time when a piston ring change should be done.
5. Check the clearance in the piston ring grooves. Roll the ring in its groove in the piston, and mea­sure the clearance at several points with a feeler gauge. Please refer to the “Technical Data, speci­fications” chapter for measurements.
Inspection and measurement of piston and cylinder bore
Check the pistons for cracks and worn piston ring grooves. Change the piston if it has deep grooves in the skirt surface. Likewise, if the piston has one or more cracks in the gudgeon pin hole. If any such damage is found, the injection equipment should also be checked.
Measure the piston diameter with a micrometer at right angles to the gudgeon pin hole and 10 mm from the bottom edge of the piston. Then measure the cyl­inder bore and calculate the clearance between the cylinder and piston.
Replace the piston if the clearance exceeds the per­mitted or if the piston diameter is less than permitted value.
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Group 21 Short block
Inspecting the con rod
1. Check the con rods for cracking, straightness and twist before considering changing the gudgeon pin bush.
Discard the connecting rod if it is cracked, bent or twisted.
Check the wear of the little end with a gudgeon pin. If the clearance is correct, an oiled gudgeon pin should slide slowly, due to its own weight, through the bush.
2. Use a new gudgeon pin and measure con rod straightness in a fixture. Max. deviation: 0.15 mm for 100 mm measured length
3. Measure any con rod twist. Max. deviation: 0.20 mm for 100 mm measured length
Replacing con rod bushes
1. Press the old bush out.
2. Press the new bush in.
NOTE! Make sure that the oil hole in the bush lines up with the drilling in the con rod. Draw a line across the hole in the con rod and the bush, with a felt tip pen. Check that the oil duct is open after pressing.
3. Broach the bush and measure the con rod with an internal dial gauge.
4. Check the end float between the con rod and crankshaft. Change the con rod if the end float exceeds 0.035-
0.085 mm.
Also check the con rod bushes. Clearance be­tween the gudgeon pin (A) and con rod bush (B), refer to “Technical data”.
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Group 21 Short block
Assembling the piston, piston rings and con rod
1. Install one of the circlips in the piston.
2. Oil the gudgeon pin and con rod bush.
3. Heat the piston to approx. 100
o
C. Place the piston
and con rod so that the marks align.
The marking on the con rod and the “SHIBAURA” marking inside the piston must face the same way.
Slide the gudgeon pin in.
NOTE! It should be possible to slide the gudgeon pin in easily. It must not be driven in.
4. Install the other circlip.
5. Check that the con rod is not tight on the gudgeon pin bearing.
6. Check the big end bearing clearances. Please re­fer to “Inspecting the crankshaft” and “Inspecting the main and big end bearings”.
7. Check the piston ring gap in the cylinder bore and that the rings do not bind in the piston ring grooves.
8. Install the piston rings on the pistons, using pis­ton ring pliers. Letters or markings on ring surfac­es must always be turned so that the marking fac­es upwards.
Install the oil scraper ring first. Put the expansion spring (1) for the oil scraper ring in the lower pis­ton ring groove, with the location dowel (A) inside both ends of the spring. Check that the ends of the expansion spring do not overlap. Install the oil scraper ring (2) above the expansion spring. Check that the ring gap is displaced 180o from the guide pin.
Install the ring with the tapered surface (3) in the center piston ring pair so that the marking faces the piston crown.
Install the upper ring (4) with the marking up­wards.
Check that the ring gaps are displaced 90o from each other.
1
2
3
4
A
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Group 21 Short block
Measuring the camshaft
Cam height (inlet and exhaust), “A” 33.7 mm
Cam height “B” (for injection pump) 41.8 mm
Cam height “C” (for feed pump) 30.0 mm
Change the camshaft if the wear limits have been ex­ceeded.
Inspection of timing gears
Special tools: 999 9683
Clean the gears and other parts of the timing system and check them carefully. Replace gears that are bad­ly worn or damaged.
Check the backlash with feeler gauges or a dial gauge, special tool 999 9683.
Max. permitted backlash: 0.25 mm. If the backlash exceeds the permitted value, then all gears in the tim­ing system must be replaced.
Installing the crankshaft
Special tools: 998 9876, 999 9696
1. Check the cleanliness of the crankshaft drillings and bearing surfaces, engine block and bearing caps. Check that the bearing shells and their beds do not have any burrs or upsets.
2. Place the main bearing shell in position in the bearingcap. The bearing shells have an oil groove that should be placed in the upper bearing cap.
Check that the lubrication holes in the upper bearing shells are centered on the oil ducts.
3. Oil the bearing and main bearing journal and mount the bearing cap in its correct place. The chamfered edge shall face forwards on all bearing caps.
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Group 21 Short block
4. Place the thrust washers in the rearmost bearing cap (flywheel side) with the oil groove towards the crankshaft.
Torque the bearing caps, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter for tightening torque.
5. Carefully lift the crankshaft into position in the cyl­inder block.
Note. Tape the crankshaft gear before lifting the crankshaft into place, to prevent the gear teeth from damaging the front bearing.
6. Torque the main bearing caps in the engine block. Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
Mounting pistons in cylinders
Note. After replacing the crankshaft, piston or gud-
geon pin, the weight difference between con rods with piston and piston rings shall not exceed 10 g between cylinders.
1. Lubricate the pistons and piston rings with engine oil beside the rings, so that the oil finds its way into the piston ring grooves. Turn the piston rings so that the ring gaps are displaced 90o from each other.
Make sure that no piston ring gap is placed in line with the gudgeon pin.
2. Place the bearing shells in position in the con rods and bearing caps. Oil the bearing journals with engine oil.
7. Check that the end float does not exceed. 0.5 mm by using a special tool, magnetic stand 999 9696 and dial gauge 998 9876.
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Group 21 Short block
3. Check that the markings on the piston crown or inside the piston line up with those on the con rod.
Use a piston ring compressor and install the pis­ton with con rod in its cylinder, starting with cylin­der no. 1 (forwards).
The con rod with the lowest number shall be mounted first (in cyl. no. 1) and the con rod with the highest number closest to the flywheel.
The con rods shall be turned so that the mark (number/colorsplash) is facing “towards the injec­tion pump” (camshaft side).
4. Mount the bearing cap and tighten the con rod bolts. Tightening torque, please refer to the “Tech­nical Data” chapter. Bearing caps must be in­stalled so that the number markings/paint marks on con rod and cap coincide. Undamaged con rod bolts do not need to be changed, they can be put back again.
5. Mount the oil suction pipe and oil strainer. Tight­ening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter. Use a new O-ring.
6. Install the sump with a new gasket. Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
Installing the camshaft
The parts of the camshaft are mounted as illustrated.
1. Woodruff key 5. Gear wheel
2. Camshaft 6. Camshaft gear
3. Bearing 7. Regulator sleeve
4. Spacer
A
B
1. Install the front plate (A) with a new gasket. Tight­ening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
2. Oil the camshaft bearing surfaces and carefully lift the camshaft into place, complete with drive gear and regulator weights.
Note. Be careful to avoid damaging the bearings, bearing tracks and camshaft lobes.
3. Install the camshaft lock washer (B) in the correct position and tighten it. Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
2
6
4
5
3
7
1
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43
Group 21 Short block
Mounting and installation
Gears that are of importance in the timing gear as­sembly are marked as follows: Crankshaft gear (1) and idler gear (2) are marked with a punch mark.
The idler gear (2) and camshaft gear (3) with a punched line in front of a tooth and tooth groove re­spectively.
1. Fit the Woodruff key in place and mount the crankshaft gear.
4. Adjust the oil pump end float to 0.10-0.15 mm. Shims are available in thicknesses 0.10; 0.15;
0.20 and 0.50 mm.
5. Install a new crankshaft seal.
6. Center the cover in front of the oil pump.
Note. Check that the spring pin in the timing gear cover can engage in the hole in the oil pump cover. Turn the cover back and forwards, and center it in the mid position. The stop arm must be turned and held in place while the timing gear cover is positioned.
IMPORTANT! The components must be oiled be­fore installation.
IMPORTANT! Make sure that the gear wheel markings coincide.
2. Install the thrust washer (8) on the idler wheel shaft stub. Install the idler gear so that the marks align.
NOTE! Do not turn the crankshaft before the timing gear cover has been installed.
3. Install the inner rotor and cover to the oil pump. Install shims, spring, spring washer and lock washer.
1. Thrust washer
2. Idler wheel with outer rotor
3. Inner rotor
4. Cover for oil pump
5. Shim.
6. Spring
7. Spring washer
8. Circlip
6
7
3
5
1
2
4
8
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44
Group 21 Short block
7. Place a new gasket on the timing gear cover.
NOTE! If the gasket contains a center part, this must be cut away.
Install the timing gear cover with the new gasket.
Check that the start spring is in position in the timing gear cover and is connected to the regula­tor arm (link arm). Push the regulator arm through the hole in the cylinder block.
Screw the timing gear cover down.
8. Turn the stop arm clockwise and connect to the injection pump. Fit the clip.
NOTE! Be careful to ensure that the shim that was placed underneath the injection pump flange is put back, before the pump is placed in the block (applies when the pump has been removed).
9. Tighten the injection pump, tightening torque refer to “Technical data”.
10. Fit the key into the crankshaft and install the crankshaft pulley. Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
11. Connect the fuel hose to the injection pump.
12. Check the injection timing (crankshaft position) in cases where a new complete camshaft has been installed or if a new cylinder block is used.
ä
1
Installing cylinder head
1. Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block surfac­es. Remove any rust and carbon from bolt holes and from the threads on the cylinder head bolts.
2. Install the valve lifters.
Note Install the valve lifters in their original positions.
3. Insert the cylinder head gasket with the mark (1) upwards.
NOTE! The new gasket must be of the same thick­ness as the old one.
If a piston, con rod, crankshaft or engine block has been changed, new measurement must be done.
The height difference between Gasket pistons and cylinder head thickness
-0.45 to -0.30 mm 0.4 mm
-0.29 till -0.20 mm 0.5 mm
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45
Group 21 Short block
4. Dip them completely (even bolt heads) in rust pre­ventative 116 1346 and let them run off on a net. The bolts should have stopped dripping when they are installed (otherwise oil cold may well up and be regarded as leakage).
IMPORTANT! The bolts are phosphated and must not be cleaned with a steel wire brush. If the cylinder head is painted, the contact surfac­es for the cylinder head bolts must be free from paint. The clamping force in the joint could oth­erwise be very poor.
5. Check that the dowels (guides) are fitted to the block.
6. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in three steps as follows. Refer to tightening diagram.
1st tightening 30 Nm
2nd tightening 70 Nm
Final tightening: 100 ± 2.5 Nm
7. Install the copper injector washers.
Install the injectors. Tightening torque refer to “Technical data”.
8. Install the pushrods, valve caps and rocker arm mechanism with gasket. Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
9. Install the oil pressure pipe between the block and rocker arm mechanism together with the oil pres­sure sensor. Install the oil pressure valve. Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
Turn the crankshaft round a couple of rotations.
10. Adjust the valve clearances. Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
11. Install the valve cover.
12. Install the injection pump hollow bolt and banjo union with new copper washers.
13. Install new copper gaskets and install the return fuel line. Tighten the nuts and connect the return pipe.
14. Install the delivery pipes, tightening torque refer to “Technical data”.
15. Install the glow plugs and power rail.
16. Install the circulation pump, tightening torque refer to “Technical data”.
17. Clean the sealing ring seat in the cylinder block and the contact surface of the plate. Install the rear crankshaft seal.
18
17
16
15
14
1312
11
10
98
7
6
54
3
2
1
Page 48
46
Group 21 Short block
18. Check that the spaces for the seal on the engine block and crankshaft are clean. Apply grease to the sealing edges and fit the seal (1). Apply an even layer of sealant 840 879 around the seal (2) and camshaft (3).
D2-55 A, B
D2-55 C & D2-75
1
3
1
2
3
19. Install the plate, flywheel according to previous markings, the elastic coupling and the flywheel housing, tightening torque refer to “Technical data”.
20. Install the heat exchanger. Mount the hoses on the heat exchanger and coolant pump. Tighten the hose clamps.
Install the oil pipe to the turbo and charge air cool-
er (only D2-75).
Install the turbo (only D2-75).
21. Install the sea water pump.
22. Install the fuel filter bracket and feed pump, tight­ening torque refer to “Technical data”.
Mount hoses and tighten hose clamps.
23. Install the starter motor and alternator together with the front engine mounting.
24. Connect the hose to the sea water pump and tight­en the hose clamp. Install the exhaust pipe.
25. Install the electronics box, install the connectors and other electrical connections.
26. Install the induction silencer.
27. Fill with oil, refer to “Technical data”. Fill with cool­ant, refer to “Technical data”.
28. Connect the battery cables. Open the fuel taps and the sea cock. Start the engine and check carefully that no leakage occurs.
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Group 21 Short block
Camshafts and valve lifters, inspection
Check, using a steel ruler (1), that valve lifter contact surface facing the camshaft is convex or flat. If the surface is concave, change the valve lifter.
If the valve lifter is worn all across the lifting surface, the valve lifter should be scrapped. “The ditch” shows that the lifter has not been turning.
A dark line on the outside of the valve lifter shows that the surface is not worn, on the other hand. The condition of the valve lifters determines whether it is necessary to check for camshaft wear.
Check that the lifting surfaces on the camshaft and the valve lifters do not have large areas of pitting damage. Pitting damage can occur for various rea­sons. The damage is caused when small pieces of metal loosen from the hardened surface. Lifters and camshafts with minor pitting damage can be used. Pitting damage seldom become worse.
Check that the camshaft bearing surfaces and cam curves are not abnormally worn.
Change the camshaft if major damage or wear occurs.
NOTE! When replacing camshaft, all valve lifters should be replaced too.
Guidelines for replacement
In normal conditions, un-evenness may occur on the camshaft lobes in the engine. This does not mean that the camshaft has to be changed. These marks do not have any negative influence on either engine per­formance or durability of the engine and its compo­nents.
The next pages shows examples of acceptable wear and non-acceptable wear.
1
Page 50
48
Group 21 Short block
Acceptable wear.
The camshaft does not need to be changed.
Unacceptable wear.
NOTE! Camshaft with associated rocker arms must
be replaced.
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49
Group 21 Short block
Adjusting valves
NOTE! The clearances shall never be checked while
the engine is running, but on a stationary cold engine.
Valve clearances: Inlet and exhaust: 0.2 mm.
1. Remove the valve cover.
2. Turn the engine in normal direction of rotation until no.1 piston is at TDC after the compression stroke. The valves on cylinder 4 overlap.
3. Check and adjust the valve clearances for cyl. no.
1. Turn the engine in normal direction of rotation a half turn and check the clearances for cyl. no. 3, the valves on cylinder 2 overlap.
Check the clearances for the remaining cylinders in firing order.
4. Replace seal. Clean the valve cover and install it. Test run the engine and check that no oil leakage occurs.
Replace ring gear on flywheel
1. Mark the flywheel position on the crankshaft (sim­plifies installation). Remove the flywheel.
2. Drill a hole or two in a tooth root on the ring gear. Crack the ring gear with a chisel at the drilled holes and remove it.
3. Clean the ring gear contact surface on the fly­wheel with a wire brush.
4. Heat up the new ring gear in an oven (120-150oC) so that the ring gear is heated evenly.
5. Place the heated ring gear on the flywheel and drive into place with a hammer and soft mandrel. The ring gear should then cool naturally.
6. Clean the contact surfaces on the flywheel and crankshaft. Check the rear crankshaft seal. Change as necessary.
7. Install the flywheel according to previously made marks.
Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
Firing order 1 3 4 2
Corresponding cylinder 4 2 1 3 who’s valves “overlap”
Inlet Exhaust
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50
Group 21 Short block
Replacement of rear crankshaft seal
The seal consists of a rubber ring and is accessible once the plate behind the flywheel housing and the elastic coupling, flywheel* and flywheel housing have been removed.
*Note. Mark the flywheel position on the crankshaft (simplifies
installation).
1. Remove the crankshaft rear seal (1). Check that the spaces for the seal on the engine block and crankshaft are clean. Apply grease to the sealing edges and install the seal.
2. Apply an even layer of sealant 840 879 around the seal (2) and camshaft (3).
3. Install the flywheel, the elastic coupling, the adapter plate and the flywheel housing.
Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
Replacement of front crankshaft seal
The seal consists of a rubber ring and can be replaced once the crankshaft pulley has been removed. Use puller 999 5919 to remove the seal.
1. Remove the key and tape over the keyway.
2. Apply grease to the new seal and install it with a suitable socket.
3. Remove the tape. Install the key and crankshaft pulley.
Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter
Page 53
51
Group 22 Lubrication system
Repair Instructions
Checking lubrication oil pressure
The lubrication oil pressure can be checked by con­necting a manometer with a hose to the connection for the oil pressure switch (thread size in cylinder block = 1/8"). For the correct pressure at operating speed and temperature, refer to “Technical data”.
If the oil pressure is too high or too low, first try re­placing the reduction valve and then check the oil pressure again.
Oil pump
Removing oil pump
1. Remove the injection pump (19). Remove the fix­ing screws and nuts on the pump. Turn the stop le­ver clockwise and carefully lift the pump, to make the lock clip on the regulator arm accessible.
Remove the lock clip and free the regulator arm.
IMPORTANT! Be careful when disassembling the injection pump, avoid damaging or bending
the lever.
NOTE! Retain any shims from beneath the injection pump flange. Use the same thickness of shims when re-installing, unless the camshaft, engine block or in­jection pump have been changed.
2. Remove the pulley, use special tool 885 820 and 3 pcs. M10x40 mm bolts. Remove the timing gear cover. Load the stop arm so that the springs on the inside of the housing do not come out of posi­tion or spring out.
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Group 21 Short block
3. Remove the idler lock ring. Save the sleeve wash­er, spring and shims.
Lift away the idler gear complete with cover and oil pump. Note the thrust washer behind the oil pump.
A
Inspection of oil pump
1. Check that the oil pump’s cover and the outer and inner rotors are not worn or damaged.
2. Check the clearance (A) between the inner (1) and outer (2) rotor. Max. permitted clearance 0.25 mm.
3. Check the idler gear bearings and stub axle. If necessary these shall be replaced. Refer to “Oil pump bearing, overhaul”.
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Group 21 Short block
Installing the oil pump
Gears that are of importance in the timing gear as­sembly are marked as follows: Crankshaft gear (1) and idler gear (2) are marked with a punch mark.
The idler gear (2) and camshaft gear (3) with a punched line in front of a tooth and tooth groove re­spectively.
IMPORTANT! The components must be oiled be­fore installation.
IMPORTANT! Make sure that the gear wheel markings coincide.
1. Thrust washer
2. Idler wheel with outer rotor
3. Inner rotor
4. Cover for oil pump
5. Shim.
6. Spring
7. Spring washer
8. Circlip
6
7
3
5
1
2
4
8
1. Install the thrust washer (8) on the idler wheel shaft stub. Install the idler gear so that the marks align.
NOTE! Do not turn the crankshaft before the timing gear cover has been installed.
2. Install the inner rotor and cover on the oil pump. Install shims, spring, spring washer and lock washer.
3. Adjust the oil pump end float to 0.10-0.15 mm. Shims are available in thicknesses 0.10; 0.15;
0.20 and 0.50 mm.
4. Install new crankshaft seal.
5. Center the cover in front of the oil pump.
NOTE! Check that the spring pin in the timing gear cover can engage in the hole in the oil pump cover. Turn the cover back and forwards, and center it in the mid position. The stop arm must be turned and held in place while the timing gear cover is positioned.
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Group 21 Short block
6. Install a new gasket on the timing cover.
NOTE! If the gasket contains a center part, this must be cut away.
Install the timing gear cover with the new gasket.
Check that the start spring is in position in the timing gear cover and is connected to the regula­tor arm (link arm). Push the regulator arm through the hole in the cylinder block.
Screw the timing gear cover down.
Oil channels
Clean and flush the oil channels in the engine with cleaning liquid and then with steam or rinsing oil at a pressure of 300-400 kPa in conjunction with a larger engine overhaul. Clean the oil pressure pipe between the cylinder block and cylinder head.
Clean the drilled oil channels in the cylinder block, crankshaft and con rods with a cleaning brush.
7. Turn the stop arm clockwise and connect to the injection pump. Fit the clip.
NOTE! Be careful to ensure that the shim that was placed underneath the injection pump flange is put back, before the pump is placed in the block (applies when the pump has been removed).
8. Tighten the injection pump, tightening torque refer to “Technical data”.
9. Fit the key into the crankshaft and install the crankshaft pulley. Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter
10. Connect the fuel hose to the injection pump.
11. Check the injection timing (crankshaft position) in cases where a new complete camshaft has been installed or if a new cylinder block is used.
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55
Oil pump bearing, overhaul
Special tools: 384 9641
In order to remove the oil pump, the timing gear and crankshaft must be removed.
2. Use tool 384 9641. First screw the tool’s guide pin (1) into the engine block.
Then put the new oil pump bearing (2) into the tool block (3).
1. Drive out the oil pump bearing section (1) located in the engine block. Tap it out from inside the crankcase.
3. Place the tool block with the bearing in place, us­ing the guide pin.
Tap in the bearing until the tool bottoms on the engine block.
NOTE! It is important that the engine block sur­face towards the tool is clean and even.
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56
Group 23 Fuel system
Repair Instructions
Observe the greatest possible cleanliness in work on the fuel system.
Injection pump
Removing the injection pump
NOTE! Repair work that requires work on the injection
pump and which can change it’s settings shall only be performed by a specially trained mechanic who has the necessary equipment at his/her disposal.
All warranties for the engine are forfeit if the seals are broken by unauthorized personnel.
1. Wash the injection pump, injection pipes and the engine closest to the pump very thoroughly.
2. Close the fuel taps. Remove the delivery pipes complete. Release the fuel hose from the pump.
Fit protective plugs to all connections.
3. Remove the fixing screws and nuts on the pump. Turn the stop lever clockwise and carefully lift the pump, to make the lock clip on the regulator arm accessible.
Remove the lock clip and free the regulator arm.
NOTE! Retain any shims/gaskets from under the in­jection pump’s flange when the pump is lifted from the cylinder block.
4. Send the pump to an authorized diesel workshop for repair if the workshop does not have specially trained personnel with the necessary testing equipment.
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Group 23 Fuel system
Installing the injection pump
Check that the pump is free from faults and if neces­sary has been tested and approved before installation.
Do not remove the protective plugs before the pipes are to be connected.
1. Insert the injection pump into the cylinder block.
NOTE! Make sure that any shims that were placed under the injection pump flange are in replaced as they were, before the pump is installed on the block.
This normally ensures that the pump settings are cor­rect. If the camshaft complete or the cylinder block have been replaced then the injection pump settings need adjusting. Refer to the next paragraph, “Setting injection timing”.
2. Turn the stop arm clockwise and connect the reg­ulator arm to the regulator rod on the pump. Fit the clip. Screw the pump in place.
3. Connect the fuel hose and return fuel line to the pump. Install the delivery pipes.
4. Prime the fuel system and test run the engine.
Setting injection timing
1. Remove the delivery pipes and return line.
If the block or the camshaft have been replaced, a 0.5 mm shim shall be placed under the injection pump flange when installing.
2. Remove the front (1st) pressure valve holder. Re­move the pressure valve and refit the pressure valve holder.
It is recommended to remove the pump and hold it in an upright position when installing the pres­sure valve holder.
NOTE! Be aware of the pump element so as not to damage it.
3. Make a drop pipe from i.e. a scrapped delivery pipe and mount it on the pressure valve holder. Place a fuel container under the pressure valve holder drop pipe.
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Group 23 Fuel system
4. Connect a fuel container with stopcock to the inlet of the injection pump. It should hold about 0.7 li­ter. Use the hose between the fuel filter and the injection pump to connect the fuel container. If ev­erything is correctly arranged, fuel should start to run out of the drop pipe.
5. Turn the crankshaft in normal direction until the piston in cylinder 1 is at TDC, the rocker arms on cylinder 1 should overlap.
Turn the crankshaft another half turn (180°) in the normal direction.
6. Move the actuator arm to maximum position.
7. Turn the crankshaft slowly in the normal direction until the flow is 7 drops/minute, then read off the number of degrees on the crankshaft pulley. If the value read off diverges from the value in technical data, the injection timing must be adjusted.
A 0.1 mm shim alters the injection timing approx. 1°. Thicker shims give later timing and thinner shims give earlier timing.
8. Refit the pressure valve.
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Group 23 Fuel system
Adjust the following as necessary
1. Loosen the stop screw (3) so that it does not limit the movement of the actuator arm (1).
2. Run the engine unloaded at full throttle and adjust to the correct racing speed with adjuster screw (4) (remember to re-seal the screw).
3. Adjust stop screw (3) to give a clearance of 0.1 mm between stop screw (3) and the actuator arm (1) when the throttle control is at the full throttle position.
Setting the engine speed
Check that the accelerator control functions normally, i.e. the actuator arm (1) is pressed against the low idle stop (2) when the accelerator control is at idle, and is pressed against the full throttle screw (3) when the ac­celerator control is at full throttle. Adjust the control if necessary. Also check that the air filter is not blocked, and that the air inlet is not blocked.
IMPORTANT! The engine’s fuel volume and speed are set at the factory to give highest pow­er and least environmental impact. These set­tings must not be disturbed.
NOTE! Seals on injection equipment may only be bro­ken by authorized personnel. Seals which have been broken must be re-sealed.
Low idle
1. Check that the gap (6) is about 3 mm when the accelerator is in the idle position. If necessary: Undo locknut (7) and adjust screw (8) to give the correct gap.
2. Warm up the engine and check the idle speed with a tachometer (refer to Technical data for the correct idle speed).
3. Adjust to the correct idle speed with adjusting screw (2).
4. Check the gap (3) again as in item 1.
Racing speed (high idle)
Warm the engine up and check the racing speed with a workshop tachometer when the engine is unloaded at full throttle (please refer to “Technical data” for cor­rect racing speed).
1. Actuator arm
2. Adjustment screw, low idle
3. Stop screw, full throttle
4. Adjustment screw, racing speed
5. Adjustment screw, max. fuel volume
7. Lock nut
7
6
8
543
2
1
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Group 23 Fuel system
Feed pump
Removal of the feed pump
1. Clean around the pump.
2. Close the fuel taps. Loosen the fuel connections from the pump.
3. Remove the feed pump from the cylinder block. Empty the pump from fuel.
1. Piston
2. Strainer
3. Valve housing
4. Lid
5. Pump housing
6. Pin
7. Diaphragm
ä
ä
2
3
4
1
6
5
7
Disassembly and inspection of the feed pump
1. Check that the piston (1) does not bind in the pump housing.
Note. The feed pump’s hand pump only functions when the piston is depressed.
2. Remove the strainer (2) from the feed pump’s inlet pipe and check that it is not restricted by dirt. Re ­install the strainer by pressing it in until a “click” is heard.
3. Check the function in the valve housing (3) before disassembly as follows:
Suck in the inlet (IN), and blow in the outlet (OUT). The function is normal if they seal in both cases.
4. Mark the position of the cover (4), valve housing and pump housing (5).
5. Remove the screws holding the cover. Remove the cover and valve housing.
6. Turn the membrane and piston until the pin (6) in the piston is in front of the groove in the pump housing.
7. Press in the piston and membrane (7). Press the pin out of the piston and remove the piston, mem­brane and springs from the pump housing.
8. Check that the membrane is undamaged and shows no cracks.
Assembling the feed pump
1. Assemble the piston (1), membrane (7) and springs in the pump housing (5). Press the piston and membrane together and press the pin (6) into the piston.
2. Turn the membrane and piston so that the pin (6) in the piston is not aligned with the groove in the pump housing.
3. Install the valve housing (3) and cover (4) accord­ing to the previously made marks. Tighten the screws.
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Group 23 Fuel system
1
2
D2-55 A, B
Priming the fuel system
The fuel system must be primed after a filter change, if the fuel tank has been run dry and after a long-term stoppage.
D2-55A/B:
1. Open the priming screw (1) on the fuel filter. Avoid fuel spillage. Use i. e. rags on the priming point.
2. Pump fuel up with the hand pump (2) until fuel without air bubbles can be seen. Continue pumping and tighten the priming screw at the same time.
Note. If the pump works poorly, crank the engine so that the mark on the pulley is at “TOP” if it is still poor, crank the engine another revolution to “TOP”.
3. Normally, additional priming is not required. Start
the engine and check that no leakage occurs.
4. If the engine does not start after a short attempt,
loosen the pressure pipes at the injectors a few turns. Hold the injection pump actuator arm in it’s max. position and crank the engine with the start­er motor until fuel leaks from the pressure pipes. Tighten the pressure pipe nuts. Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
The glow plugs are activated at the same time as the starter motor. You can save the batteries if the starter motor is only used for short periods when priming.
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Group 23 Fuel system
D2-55 C, D2-75 A
2
1
3
4
D2-55C and D2-75A:
1. Open the priming screw (1) on the fuel filter. Avoid fuel spillage. Use i. e. rags on the priming point.
2. Pump fuel up with the hand pump (2) until fuel without air bubbles can be seen. Continue pumping and tighten the priming screw at the same time.
The pump’s inlet pipe contains a strainer (3) which normally does not need to be cleaned since the en­gine has a fuel pre-filter. If a pre-filter is not fitted, poor feed flow can be due to a blocked strainer.
Note. If either of the two O-rings (4) are damaged, they must be replaced.
3. Normally, additional priming is not required. Start
the engine and check that no leakage occurs.
4. If the engine does not start after a short attempt,
loosen the pressure pipes at the injectors a few turns. Hold the injection pump actuator arm in it’s max.position and crank the engine with the starter motor until fuel leaks from the pressure pipes. Tighten the pressure pipe nuts. Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
The glow plugs are activated at the same time as the starter motor. You can save the batteries if the starter motor is only used for short periods when priming.
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Group 23 Fuel system
Fuel filter, replace
Clean the filter bracket. To prevent fuel spill, a plastic bag can be pulled over the filter. Unscrew the filter. Wipe a film of oil on the gasket of the new filter. Screw the filter on by hand until it touches the contact surface. Then tighten an extra half turn, no more! Prime the fuel system. Deposit the old filter at a
waste management facility.
Start the engine and check that no leakage occurs.
WARNING! Working with, or going close to a run­ning engine is a safety risk. Watch out for rotat­ing components and hot surfaces.
Fuel pre-filter, draining and replacement of filter insert
Draining
The fuel pre-filter is extra equipment.
Put a suitable vessel underneath the filter. Drain off water and contaminants through the tap/plug in the bottom of the filter bowl.
IMPORTANT! Draining should be performed first a number of hours after stopping.
Replacing filter insert
Close the fuel stop cock on the tank. Put a suitable vessel underneath the filter.
Remove the filter bowl by undoing the screw (1). Emp­ty and clean the filter bowl. Replace the insert and as­semble the bowl. Open the stop cock. Prime the fuel system. Deposit the old filter at a waste manage-
ment facility.
Start the engine and check that no leakage occurs.
WARNING! Working with, or going close to a run­ning engine is a safety risk. Watch out for rotat-
ing components and hot surfaces.
1
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64
Group 23 Fuel system
Injectors
Changing the injectors
1. Wash around the injectors.
2. Undo the delivery pipes at the injection pump and
at the injectors. Lift the fuel delivery pipes away together.
3. Undo the nut at the top of each injector, use the
nuts beneath the return fuel line as a counterhold so that the pipes are not bent. Lift the return fuel pipe away.
4. Unscrew the injectors (1). Use socket, L=80 mm.
Remove the copper washers (2) beneath the injec­tors.
5. Fit a protective plug to the injector’s pipe connec-
tion and over the injector nozzle if it is not to be installed immediately.
6. Install the new injector. Tightening torque, please
refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
7. Install the return fuel pipe, use the nut underneath
the fuel return pipe to avoid kinking the pipe.
8. Install the pressure pipes. Check that they do not
come out of alignment, and tighten the nuts. Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
9. Start the engine and check that no leakage occurs.
2
1
Testing of injectors
Testing is done in an injector tester. During the test, the opening pressure and sealing are the most impor­tant things. The spray pattern is more difficult to eval­uate and does not fully indicate the condition of the nozzle.
WARNING! Be careful when testing injectors, avoid getting the fuel jet from an injector on un­protected parts of your body. The spray has such great penetration power that it can pene­trate the skin and cause blood poisoning.
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Group 23 Fuel system
Opening pressure
With the pressure gauge connected, press the injector tester lever down slowly until the injector opens and releases fuel. Read off the opening pressure at the opening instant.
If the value read does not coincide with the specified value, the setting must be changed. This is done with shims.
Note. The opening pressure increases or decreases by about 1 MPa with a change of shim thickness of
0.1 mm.
Checking injectors
Spray pattern
Special tools: 999 9772
1. Pump with injector tester 999 9772 and check the
spray pattern. The fuel spray should be cone­shaped and aligned with the injector center line. Fuel drops shall not occur in the spray.
2. Check that the fuel spray has a circular cross-
section.
Sealing
When sealing is checked, investigate the fuel leakage which can occur between the injector nozzle seat and the tapered sealing surface in the injector sleeve.
1. Dry the injector nozzle so that it is dry.
2. Pump the pressure up to about 2 MPa below the
opening pressure of the injector (please refer to Technical Data). Keep the pressure constant for about 10 sec. and check that no fuel drips out from the tip of the injector. Damp injectors can be approved.
Fit a protective plug to the injector’s pipe connection and over the injector nozzle if it is not to be installed immediately.
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66
Group 23 Fuel system
Overhauling injectors
1. Clean the injector externally.
2. Fix the injector (holder) in a vise. Unscrew the in-
jector nut and disassemble the injector.
Note. Be careful that the injector nozzle does not fall out during disassembly.
3. Pull the injector nozzle out of the injector sleeve
and put the components in cleaning petrol (gaso­line).
Note. Make sure that the injector needles and injector sleeves which belong with each other, and fit together, are not mixed up if several injectors are cleaned at the same time. To avoid mixing up, the injectors should be put in an injector stand or in different compart­ments.
4. Check the injector nozzle thoroughly with a lamp
magnifier or nozzle microscope. Also check the other components.
5. When installing a new nozzle it is important that
the conserving oil is cleaned off the injector nee­dle and sleeve before the injector is assembled (avoid skin contact with the needle’s sliding sur­face).
Clean the components in chemically pure petrol (gasoline). Check that the needle slides in the sleeve with no tendency to bind.
6. Dip the injector components in pure Diesel or test-
ing oil, and fit the components together. Use the original thickness of adjustment washer(s) to set the opening pressure.
7. Check the opening pressure, jet pattern and seal-
ing in an injector tester.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
1. Injector nut 6. Adjustment shims
2. Injectors 7. Injector holder
3. Joining piece 8. Washer
4. Compression screw 9. Nut
5. Spring
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67
Group 23 Fuel system
Fresh water system
The freshwater system is the engines internal cooling system that ensures that the engine operates at the correct temperature. It is a closed system and must therefore always be filled with a mixture of at least 40 % concentrated coolant and 60 % water, to offer protection from interior corrosion, cavitation and frost bursting.
We recommend that you use “Volvo Penta Coolant, Ready Mixed”, alternatively “Volvo Penta Coolant” (concentrated) mixed with pure water according to spec, see “Coolant. Mixing”. This grade of coolant is the only one that is developed for and approved by Volvo Penta.
The coolant should contain ethylene glycol of a good quality with a suitable chemical consistency that of­fers complete engine protection. Using an anti-corro­sion mixture exclusively is not permitted in Volvo Penta’s engines. Never use water by itself as the coolant.
IMPORTANT! Coolant of a suitable chemical for­mula must be used all year round. This applies even if there is no risk for frost damage, so that the engine always has complete corrosion pro­tection. Future warranty claims on the engine and ancil­laries may be rejected if an unsuitable coolant has been used or if the instructions concerning coolant mixing have not been adhered to.
NOTE! The anti-corrosive agents become less effec­tive after a time, which means that the coolant must be replaced, see “Service schematic”. The cooling system should be flushed when the coolant is changed, please refer to “Cooling system. Cleaning”.
“Volvo Penta Coolant” is a concentrated coolant that is to be mixed with water. It has been prepared to work best with Volvo Penta engines and offers excel­lent protection against frost and cavitation damage, plus frost bursting.
“Volvo Penta Coolant, Ready Mixed” is a ready­mixed coolant, 40 % “Volvo Penta Coolant” and 60 % water. This concentration protects the engine against corrosion, cavitation damage and freezing conditions down to -28 °C.
Group 26 Cooling system
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68
Coolant. Mixing
WARNING! All glycol is dangerous to human
health and ecologically damaging. Shall not be consumed! Glycol is flammable.
IMPORTANT! Ethylene glycol should not be mixed with other types of glycol.
Mix: 40 % “Volvo Penta Coolant” (conc. coolant) 60 % water
This mixture protects against internal corrosion, cavi­tation and frost damage down to -28 °C. (Using 60 % glycol lowers the freezing point to -54 °C.) Never mix more than 60 % concentrate (Volvo Penta Coolant) in the cooling liquid, since this would give reduced cool­ing effect and increase the risk of overheating and frost damage.
IMPORTANT! Coolant shall be mixed with pure water, use distilled - de-ionized water. The wa­ter must fulfill the requirements specified by Vol­vo Penta, see “Water quality”.
IMPORTANT! It is extremely important that the correct concentration of coolant is added to the system. Mix in a separate clean vessel before filling the cooling system. Make sure that the liq­uids mix.
Water quality
ASTM D4985:
Total solid particles ...................................... < 340 ppm
Total hardness ............................................. < 9.5° dH
Chloride ......................................................... < 40 ppm
Sulfate ........................................................... < 100 ppm
pH value ........................................................ 5,5 -9
Silica (acc. to ASTM D859) .......................... < 20 mg SiO2/l
Iron (acc. to ASTM D1068) .......................... < 0.10 ppm
Manganese (acc. to ASTM D858) ............... < 0.05 ppm
Conductivity (acc. to ASTM D1125) ............ < 500 µS/cm
Organic content, CODMn (acc. ISO8467) .... < 15 mg KMnO4/l
Page 71
69
Group 26 Cooling system
Draining coolant
Stop the engine before draining the cooling system.
Freshwater system
WARNING! Do not open the filler cap when the
engine is hot, except in emergencies. Steam or hot fluid may spray out
1. Place a suitable collection vessel beneath the en-
gine block drain plug (1) and at the heat exchang­er drain tap.
2. Open the drain plug (1) and drain tap and drain all
coolant.
NOTE! Deposit the old coolant at a recycling station for destruction.
Draining the seawater system
WARNING! Risk for flooding. Close the sea-
cocks before starting work.
1. Close the sea cock (1) or the valve on the S-
drive. Remove the cover (2) from the seawater pump and let the water run out.
2. Undo the hose (3) from the seawater pump and
seawater filter at the reverser/drive and angle them downwards to let the water out.
3. Check if there are extra taps/plugs at the cooling
and exhaust systems lowest points.
Check carefully that all the water runs out.
4. Tighten the hoses and the cover on the seawater
pump. Bilge-pump the boat
WARNING! Check that there are no leaks in the seawater system.
Filling with coolant
Flush the cooling system clean before new coolant is added.
Close all drain points and fill up with coolant to the correct level.
The engine must be stationary when the cooling system is filled, and must not be started until the system is vented and completely filled. If a heating
unit is connected to the engine cooling system, the heat control valve should be fully opened and the in­stallation vented during filling.
Check the hoses and joints and rectify any leaks.
Fill the system slowly! Filling must not be done so fast that air locks are formed in the system. The air should be allowed to flow out through the filling opening. Check the coolant level after the engine has been run for about an hour. Top up with coolant as necessary.
21
3
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70
Group 26 Cooling system
Checking the coolant level
WARNING! Do not open the filler cap when the
engine is hot, except in emergencies. Steam or hot fluid may spray out.
Turn the filler cap to the first stop and allow any ex­cess pressure to hiss out before removing the cap completely. Top the coolant up as necessary. The level should be between the filler opening and the low­er edge of the level marker (1). Fit the filler cap.
If a separate expansion tank is fitted (extra equip­ment), the coolant level shall be between the MIN and MAX marks.
Coolant temperature too low
Low coolant temperature can be caused by:
Faulty thermostat.
Faulty temperature sensor or instrument.
Engine running with low load.
Coolant temperature too high
High coolant temperature (warning lamp lights up) can be caused by:
Blocked sea water inlet or sea water filter
Defective impeller in the sea water pump.
Coolant level Too low, air in the fresh water sys-
tem.
Slipping or broken drive belt for circulation pump.
Faulty thermostat, temperature sensor or instru-
ment.
Blocked cooling system.
Incorrectly set injection timing on the injection
pump.
Filler cap gasket does not seal.
1
MAX
MIN
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71
Group 26 Cooling system
Coolant losses
There are two types of coolant losses:
Coolant losses during operation.
Coolant losses after stopping a hot engine.
Coolant losses during operation can be due to a leak­ing cooling system or air or combustion gases being forced into the cooling system.
Checking the pressure valve in the filler cap
Special tools: 999 6662
1. Drain some of the coolant and connect the pres-
sure testing device 99 6662 to a nipple or other plugged hole in the cooling system.
2. Extend the drain hose from the filler pipe with a
hose which ends up in a water - filled vessel.
3. Increase the pressure and read the pressure
gauge when the valve opens (water bubbles into the vessel with the drain hose). The valve should open at 0.09 MPa.
4. Remove the test equipment. Install the plug and
fill the engine up with coolant.
Cleaning heat exchanger
Clean the heat exchanger insert at any sign of block­age (slowly increasing coolant temperature).
NOTE! First check/clean the seawater filter. Also checkthe seawater pump impeller wheel and the sea­water intake.
IMPORTANT! Close the sea cocks before work­ing on the cooling system.
1. Drain the water from the seawater and freshwater
systems.
2. Disassemble the exhaust manifold together with
the heat exchanger.
3. Undo the screws and covers at the front and rear
of the heat exchanger. Pull out the insert.
4. Flush and clean the insert, both internally and ex-
ternally. Also clean the housing.
If there are loose deposits in the insert, cleaning can be performed by passing a suitable steel rod through the tubes in the opposite direction to the water flow.
NOTE! Check that the rod does not damage the tubes.
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72
Group 26 Cooling system
5. Install the insert in the heat exchanger.
NOTE! Be careful to install the insert in the correct position.
Make sure the hole in the insert aligns with the hole in the housing and that the venting hole is upwards. The insert is marked with “UP”.
6. Install the covers on the front and rear ends of the
heat exchanger. Connect the hose from the sea­water pump and tighten the clamp.
7. Assemble the exhaust manifold together with the
heat exchanger.
8. Fill the engine with coolant.
9. Open the sea cocks or valve on the S-drive and
start the engine. Check that no leakage occurs.
Replacing the circulation pump
Removal
1. Drain the coolant from the engine (freshwater sys­tem).
2. Undo the alternator and remove the drive belt. Re­move the alternator tensioner.
3. Remove the rubber hoses to and from the pump.
4. Remove the electric connection from the tempera­ture monitor.
5. Remove the pump’s fixing bolts and lift out the pump.
Fitting
1. Clean the contact surfaces on the pump and cyl­inder block.
2. Install the coolant pump with a new gasket.
3. Fit the tensioner to the alternator.
4. Install the rubber hoses to and from the pump. Tighten the hose clamps.
5. Install the drive belts. It should be possible to de­press the belt approx. 10 mm between the pul­leys.
6. Reconnect the temperature monitor.
7. Fill the engine with coolant. Start the engine and check carefully that no leakage occurs.
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73
Group 26 Cooling system
Replacing impeller in seawater pump
Close the sea cock or the valve on the S-drive before working on the cooling system.
1. Remove the end cover of the pump and drain the water from the seawater system.
2. Pull and twist out the impeller with water-pump piers.
3. Clean inside the housing. Grease the pump hous­ing and the inside of the cover with a little water­resistant grease intended for rubber.
4. Push in the new impeller with a twisting motion (clockwise). Install the sealing washer at the outer end of the impeller center.
5. Install the cover with a new gasket.
6. Open the sea cock, or tap on the S-drive. Start the engine and check carefully that no leakage occurs.
Thermostat
Replacing the thermostat
1. Turn the main switch off. Drain the water from the freshwater system.
2. Remove the cover (1), the spacer (2) and lift out the thermostat (3). Remove the rubber ring.
Checking the thermostat
1. Check that the thermostat closes completely.
2. Heat up water in a container to 75 oC .
3. Lower the thermostat into the water. Check that the thermostat is still closed after 3-5 minutes.
4. Raise the temperature to boiling point (100 oC). Check that the thermostat has opened at least 8 mm after 3-5 minutes. Replace the thermostat if it does not fulfill the requirements.
NOTE! If the thermostat does not close completely, the engine will run too cold.
D2-55 C & D2-75
1
3
1
2
3
D2-55 A/B
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74
Group 30 Electrical system
1. Coolant temperature sensor (extra equipment)
2. Coolant temperature monitor
3. Fuses
4. Starter relay
5. Glowplug relay
6. Charge sensing resistor
7. Engine speed sensor
8. Starter motor
9. Alternator
10. Glowplug , 4 pcs.
11. Oil pressure sensor (extra equipment)
12. Oil pressure monitor
1
2
4
5
6
7
8
9
3
10
11
12
General
The engine is fitted with an AC alternator. The system voltage is 12V and the electrical system is single-pole.
The electrical system can include, as extra equip­ment, sensors for monitoring the engine’s coolant temperature and oil pressure.
The electrical system is shown in two ways. The wir­ing diagram shows wire runs, cable cross section and color.
Fuses
The engine is equipped with a fuse block with four fus­es (15A). One fuse safeguards the electrical system and blows if overloaded, the others are spares.
If a fuse blows, the electrical system can be recon­nected by moving the cable to the next fuse/connec­tor. Always first investigate the reason for the over­load.
Relays
The starting and glowplug functions are each con­trolled by a switching relay. These relays are identical and are thus mutually interchangeable.
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75
Group 30 Electrical system
Alternator
Voltage regulator with sensor system
The voltage regulator on the standard alternator (14V/60A) is equipped with a sensor system.
The sensor system compares the charge voltage be­tween the alternator terminals, B+ and B-, with the voltage across the battery positive and negative termi­nals. The voltage regulator then compensates for any voltage drop in the cables between the alternator and the batteries, by increasing the charge voltage sup­plied by the alternator as necessary.
When delivered from Volvo Penta, the sensor system is not activated. The connection has probably been done during engine installation, however.
1. Sensor wire (yellow, 1.5 mm2)
2. Charge splitter (extra equip.)
3. Alternator
4. Fuse panel (extra equip.)
5. Starter motor
6. Main switch
7. Auxiliary batteries (extra equip.)
8. Starting battery (engine)
Charge splitter
As extra equipment, the engine’s standard alternator can be fitted with a charge splitter. Two independent battery circuits can in this way, be charged at the same time. The charge splitter separates the two cir­cuits from each other so that the engine’s starting battery is kept fully charged even if the “accessory batteries” are weak or even totally discharged.
Connecting the sensor system
IMPORTANT! Stop the engine and disconnect
power with the main switch before working on the electrical system.
1. Release the yellow sensor wire from connection B+ on the alternator.
2. Splice the wire (yellow, 1.5 mm2) and run it to the batteries. Connect the wire to the batteries’ posi­tive pole (+).
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
1
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76
Group 30 Electrical system
Important information – electrical system
IMPORTANT! Stop the engine and turn off the
power at the main switch(es) before carrying out work on the electrical system.
Battery main switch
Never break the circuit between the alternator and the battery while the engine is running. The main switch (es) shall, therefore never by switched off before the engine has stopped. If the circuit is disconnected while running, the voltage regulator can be destroyed and the alternator can be seriously damaged.
The charging circuits must never be re-connected with the engine running, for the same reason. For simulta­neous charging of two independent battery circuits, a Volvo Penta charge splitter can be fitted to the stan­dard alternator (accessory).
Batteries
Never mix up the battery’s positive and negative ter­minals when fitting batteries. Incorrect installation can result in serious damage to the electrical equipment. Refer to the wiring diagram. The battery poles shall be kept well cleaned and the cable shoes shall always be tightened and well greased, to avoid power loss.
Fast charging of the batteries should be avoided. If fast charging must be used, the batterycables shall always be disconnected first.
NOTE! Follow the appropriate safety regulations when charging batteries. During charging, unscrew the cell plugs but leave them in the plug holes. Ventilate well, especially if the batteries are charged in an enclosed space. Always switch off the charging current before the charging clips are removed.
WARNING! Never expose the battery area to naked flame or electrical sparks. Never smoke close to the batteries. The batteries generate hydrogen gas when charged, which forms an ex­plosive gas when mixed with air. This gas is easily ignited and highly explosive.
Always use protective goggles when charging and handling the batteries.
Battery electrolyte contains sulfuric acid which is highly corrosive. Should the battery electro­lyte come into contact with unprotected skin wash off immediately using plenty of water and soap. If you get battery acid in your eyes, flush at once with a lot of water, and get medical as­sistance at once.
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Group 30 Electrical system
Electrical wiring
Never make holes in the cables insulation to perform measurements with needles. In a corrosive atmo­sphere such as a boat, it only takes 2 years for a small cable with a needle hole to oxidize off.
If it is absolutely necessary to make a hole in the in­sulation, this must be repaired in a suitable way after testing.
Galvanic corrosion
The S-drive is electrically isolated from the engine and shall never be used as a grounding plane.
The S-drive has insulation (B) placed between the adapter plate and the upper gear housing. An isolation bush (A) shall be installed on one of the lower bolts.
IMPORTANT! The S-drive shall never be used as a grounding plane or be electrically connect­ed with any other equipment, i.e. radio, naviga­tion equipment, rudder, bathing steps, etc.
Connection of extra equipment
All extra equipment shall be connected to a separate connection box and correctly fused. Extra power take­offs directly from the instrument panel should be avoided. The permitted extra take off is however total-
ly max. 5A (applies to all instrument panels together).
Electric welding
Remove the positive and negative cables from the batteries. Then disconnect all cables connected to the alternator.
Always connect the welder earth clamp to the compo­nent to be welded, and as close as possible to the weld site. The clamp must never be connected to the engine or in such a way that current can pass through a bearing.
WARNING! After welding is finished ,the wires to the alternator must be reconnected before the battery cables are reconnected.
B
A
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78
Group 30 Electrical system
Repair Instructions
Fault finding glow plugs
Special tools: 9812519
1. Remove both battery cables.
2. Remove the power rail between the glow plugs.
3. Measure the resistance of each glow plug to the engine block with an ohmmeter. The resistance shall be 1.6 ± 0.16 Ω. If the instrument shows 0 the glow plug is short-circuit and must be re­placed.
Replacing glow plugs
1. Remove both battery cables.
2. Clean around the glow plugs.
3 Undo the connection from the power rail to the glow
plug.
4. Remove the power rail and unscrew the glow plug.
5. Install the new glow plug. Tightening torque, please refer to the “Technical Data” chapter.
6. Reinstall the power rail and connect the glow plug. Install the battery cables.
Fault tracing the charging system
The engines are equipped with a rectified three-phase delta-coupled alternator of 14V/60A (840W).
The alternator’s designation can be found on a plate on the rear of the alternator.
Checking and overhauling
Before disassembly of the alternator is started, fault tracing of the battery circuit should be performed in or­der to eliminate other possible faults. Testing should be performed with the alternator “hot”. Run the engine at 2000 r.pm. for about 3 minutes before measuring.
WARNING! The alternators, voltage regulators and battery circuit connections may not be dis­connected or be disconnected with the engine running. Check carefully that the measuring in­strument is set to voltage measurement (“V”) to avoid short circuiting between the alternators connections.
1. Glow wire 5. Nut
2. Jacket 6. Magnesium oxide
3. Seal 7. Insulation
4. Socket 8. Core
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79
Group 30 Electrical system
WARNING! Be extremely careful so that the measurement cables, clothes or similar come into contact with the drive beltor pulleys on the engine or alternator when the engine is running.
Check the tension of the alternator belt and the belt condition. Replace the belt if it is cracked, worn or oily. Adjust the belt tension as required. It should be possible to depress the belt approx. 10 mm between the pulleys.
Current loss check
1. Wash the battery with lukewarm water and dry off. Remove the battery cables and clean the poles.
2. Reconnect the positive pole (+) again.
3. Turn off the keyswitch or disconnect power to the instrument panel and all other consumers con­nected to the starting battery.
4. Set the multimeter for DC current measurement (+20A). Connect the multimeter between the bat­tery’s negative pole (-) and the negative cable. The current loss may not exceed 0.1 A with the keyswitch or instrument panel disconnected.
If the current loss is greater than 0.1 A:
Check that no short circuits or leakage occurs at any of the connection points. Leakage can occur through dirty or salt-encrusted electrical compo­nents.
Clean and check all connection points.
If the current loss is less than 0.1 A:
Check the charge status of the battery.
Fault tracing the battery circuit
Special tools: 9812519
Note that other instruments may use different sym­bols for the set measurement function.
}
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80
Group 30 Electrical system
Load testing the battery
The battery acid density may not be less than
1.21 g/cm3.
1. Fix a voltmeter across the battery poles
2. Activate the stop function and run the starter mo­tor for about 10 seconds with the glow plugs acti­vated and read off the start voltage. It should not be less than 9.5 V.
3. Check if any of the cells bubble when the starter motor is operated (short-circuit cell).
4. If the voltage is less than 9.5 V or if any of the cells bubble:
Replace the battery and try again.
If the voltage is 9.5 V or higher:
The battery is OK. Check the charging voltage (see next paragraph).
Checking charge status
Check the charge status with an acid densitometer. Measure the acid density of all cells at +25 oC. Mea­surement shall not be done immediately after charging or filling with battery water.
The acid density of a fully charged battery at +25
o
C shall be 1.28 g/cm3. Charge the battery if the acid density is less than 1.24 g/cm3 (approx. 75 % charged). Charge at 5-6A for 10 hr.
WARNING! The battery generates hydrogen gas which is easily ignited and highly explosive. Never expose the battery to naked flame or electrical sparks. Ventilate the battery area well, especially after charging.
Check 2hr. after charging
If the acid density of the cells is uneven, a cell is probably short circuit. Replace the battery if the differ­ence between cells is 0.04 g/cm3 or more (i.e. 1.28-
1.24 g/cm3).
If the acid density between cells is even, then the bat­tery is not fully charged.
Sulfated battery. A minor case of sulfating can be bro­ken down by an additional 10 hours charging. Replace the battery if this does not help.
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81
Group 30 Electrical system
Checking the battery leads
Set the multimeter to voltage test and connect the multimeter between the battery’s positive and nega­tive poles. Run the engine at 2000 r.p.m. Read off and note the voltage across the poles.
The alternator delivers approx.14.0 V:
Perform the test as follows:
1. Connect the multimeter between the alternator connections B+ and B-.
2. Run the engine at 2000 r.p.m. The alternator shall deliver 14.0-14.4 V. The total voltage drop shall not exceed 0.4 V.
Voltage drop less than 0.2 V:
Battery leads OK.
Voltage drop more than 0.3 V:
Perform a check of the battery leads.
The alternator supplies more than 14.4 V:
See sections “Checking and Fault Tracing the Al­ternator”, and “Checking the Regulator”.
Checking the positive (+) battery lead
1. Connect the multimeter between the alternator connection B+ and the battery positive pole.
2. Run the engine at 2000 r.p.m. The voltage drop shall not exceed 0.2 V. If the voltage drop ex­ceeds this, the battery lead/connection must be remedied according to “Actions” below.
Then perform the test for “Check of the negative battery lead”.
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82
Group 30 Electrical system
Checking negative (-) battery lead
1. Connect the multimeter between the alternator connections B- and battery negative pole (-).
2. Run the engine at 2000 r.p.m. The voltage drop shall not exceed 0.2 V. If the voltage drop ex­ceeds this, the battery lead/connection must be remedied according to “Actions”.
Actions
WARNING! Disconnect power and remove both
battery cables before working on the charging circuit.
If the voltage drop in any of the tests above exceeded
0.2 V, the battery leads/connections must be removed
and cleaned from oxide etc. They spray the connec­tions with a moisture dispersent contact oil and tight­en the connections once more.
Treat the connections at the battery, main switch, starter motor, alternator, glow plug relay and glow plugs.
Alternator
Checking and fault tracing the alternator
1. Remove the alternator’s electrical connections. Remove the alternator belt. Remove the alternator.
2. Undo the voltage regulator’s connection at the al­ternator connection B+. Unplug the blade connec­tors at connections B+ and D+. Remove the pro­tective cover from the W connection.
3. Lever the plastic cover fixing ears from side to side off the alternator. Undo the regulator’s con­nection cables to the diode bridge. Use flat pliers or poke the cable shoes out with a screwdriver. Do not pull on the cables!
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Group 30 Electrical system
Replacing alternator brushes
Unscrew the voltage regulator. Unscrew the brush holder. Check the length of the brushes. Replace the brushes if they are 5 mm or shorter. The brush and holder are replaced as a unit. Unsolder the connection cables and solder on the new with acid-free solder.
Checking the regulator
Special tools: 884 892
Before performing the test, check that the regulator tester battery has the correct voltage. Press the “Test” button and check that the green lamp (“Batt.”) lights. Replace batteries (2 pcs alcaline, 9 V) if the lamp does not light. The batteries are in a compart­ment on the underside of the instrument.
Connect the tester’s gray wire to the brush.
Connect the tester’s brown wire to the regulator’s yel­low and brown wires, which are to be held together for the test.
Connect the tester’s black wire to the regulator’s black wire.
Press the “Test” button and and at the same time turn the rheostat from “0” to “1”.
Regulator OK
The red and green lamps shall light from “0” . As the rheostat is turned, the red lamp should go out at “1”.
Faulty regulator
Replace the regulator if the red lamp lights through the whole travel of the rheostat or if it does not light at all.
Note. Point “2” on the tester is not used for this type of regulator.
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84
Group 30 Electrical system
Checking the rotor winding
Once the regulator and brushes have been removed, it is possible to measure the resistance of the rotor windings.
Set the measurement instrument to position Ω.
Make sure the probes have good contact with the slip rings. The rotor resistance should be 3.0-5.0 Ω.
Also check for grounding faults by measuring between the slip rings and ground.
Removing the diode bridge
In order to check the diode bridge and stator windings, the diode bridge should be removed.
Unsolder the three stator windings. Do not use too much heat as this can damage the diodes. Undo the nuts (note how the nuts and washers are fitted).
Checking the diode bridge
Set the multimeter to position “Diode test”. Be very sure that you have good probe contact for all mea­surements.
Checking B+ diodes
1. Connect the multimeters positive probe to one of
the stator winding’s connections (1-2-3). Then connect the instruments negative probe to the di­ode plate B+ connection. Read off the instrument. A normal value should be between 450 and 650 mV which is the voltage drop across the diode. Any other value indicates a faulty diode.
2. Check the other B+ diodes by moving the positive
probe to the other connections (1-2-3).
3. Then check the B+ diodes in the opposite direc-
tion by reversing the positive and negative probes. Perform the same measurements as above. The instrument should show a one “1” with these measurements (furthest to the left). Any other value on the instrument indicates a faulty di­ode.
Page 87
85
Group 30 Electrical system
Checking B- diodes
1. Connect the instruments positive probe to the di­ode plate B- connection and the instruments neg­ative probe to one of the stator windings connec­tions (1-2-3).
2. Read off the instrument as previously. A normal value should be between 450 and 650 mV. Any other value indicates a faulty diode.
3. Then check the B- diodes in the opposite direction by reversing the positive and negative probes. Perform the same measurements as above. The instrument should show a one “1” with these mea­surements (furthest to the left). Any other value on the instrument indicates a faulty diode. If any of the diodes are faulty, the whole diode plate must be replaced.
Checking D+ diodes
The diode plate’s three magnetization diodes are checked in the same way as above.
1. Connect the instrument’s positive probe to each stator winding connection (1-2-3) and the negative probe to D+. The voltage drop for each diode should be between 450 and 650 mV.
2. Then check the D+ diodes in the opposite direc­tion by reversing the positive and negative probes. Perform the same measurements as above. The instrument should show a one “1” with these measurements (furthest to the left). Any other value on the instrument indicates a faulty di­ode. If any of the diodes are faulty, the whole diode plate must be replaced.
Page 88
86
Group 30 Electrical system
Checking the stator windings
Once the diode bridge is removed, the stator windings can be measured by setting the multimeter to “buzzer position”.
Measure the resistance of each winding.
NOTE! First check the internal resistance of the mea­surement wires. When measurement of the stator windings is performed, the internal resistance of the measurement wires (i.e. 0.10Ω) must be subtracted from the value displayed.
Measure between all winding connections (three mea­surements). The resistance be 0.10Ω.
Also measure to the alternator body by connecting the instrument in position Ω. And then measure from each winding to the body. The instrument should show a one “1” with these measurements (which means infinity).
If the instrument shows any other value, the stator winding is faulty. If any of the stator windings are faulty, the complete stator ring must be replaced.
Starter motor
General
The starter motor is a DC series motor. The starter pinion is operated by a control solenoid and can be slid axially on the rotor.
The starter motor is fitted with a reduction gear, which provides a higher torque.
Removing the starter motor
1. Remove both battery cables.
2. Undo the electrical connections from the starter motor.
3. Remove the starter motors fixing bolts and lift off the starter motor.
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87
Group 30 Electrical system
Disassembling the starter motor
1. Clean the starter motor externally.
2. Remove the solenoid.
3. Remove the protective cover from the rear bearing casing. Remove the locking ring and where fitted, the shim(s).
4. Remove the rear bearing casing.
5. Remove the brush plate. Remove the stator hous­ing from the gear housing.
6. Remove the lever arm that is fitted in the gear housing and the rotor.
7. Remove the starter gear that is fitted in the gear housing. First remove the locking ring by striking the contact ring with a suitable sleeve.
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Group 30 Electrical system
Inspecting the starter motor
Fault tracing the starter motor should be left to an au­thorized electrical workshop which has the necessary test equipment.
1. Test the rotor with regard to winding breakdown and open circuits with the appropriate test equip­ment.
2. Check that the brushes’ contact surface on the commutator is even and free from dirt and oil. If the commutator is worn or burnt it can be ground with emery paper no. 500 or 600.
Measure the commutator with a dial gauge. Max. permitted runout is 0.05 mm.
3. Check that the insulation is at least 0.2 mm below the commutator surface. Correct as necessary.
4. Check the straightness of the rotor. Set the rotor up between centers and measure the runout of the rotor frame with a dial gauge. Max. runout 0.08 mm. The runout is half of the indicated value.
5. Check the starter gear teeth. Replace damaged gears. Also check the ring gear if the starter gear is damaged.
Field windings
Check with the test instrument that there is no open circuit in the windings. Faulty field windings must be replaced.
Assembling the stator
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
Connect + and - from a 12 V battery to the terminals on the solenoid and check that the starter gear is thrown forward to the gear stop.
Installing the starter motor
1. Place the starter motor in position on the flywheel housing and tighten it.
2. Connect the electrical wiring to the starter motor. See wiring diagram for starter motor.
3. Connect the battery cables.
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89
Group 30 Electrical system
Electrical components
Relay box with fuses
The engine is equipped with a fuse block with four fus­es (15A). One fuse safeguards the electrical system and blows if overloaded, the others are spares.
If a fuse blows, the electrical system can be recon­nected by moving the cable to the next fuse/connec­tor. Always first investigate the reason for the over­load.
Monitors
Lube oil pressure monitor - alarm
Contact type: Normally open. The contacts close if
the lube oil pressure in the engine drops below
0.3 ± 0.15 bar.
Check of the closing point is done with falling pres­sure.
Coolant temperature monitor - alarm
Contact type: Normally open. The contacts close if
the coolant temperature rises above 95 oC ± 3 oC.
Check of the closing point is done with rising temper- ature.
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90
Group 30 Electrical system
Sensor
Note. Sensors are only supplied together with the “De
Luxe” instrument panel.
Lubrication oil pressure sensor
Resistance checking, measured with falling pressure
and instrument connected. Measured with ohmmeter class 1 at + 20oC.
Pressure
0 bar: 10 + 3 /-5 Ω
2 bar: 52 ± 4 Ω
4 bar: 88 ± 4 Ω
6 bar: 124 ± 5 Ω
Coolant temperature sensor
Resistance checking, measured with sensor im-
mersed in circulating liquid down to the hexagonal screw for 3 minutes with power connected:
Temp. 60 oC: 134,0 ± 13,5 Ω (±4 oC)
90 oC: 51,2 ± 4,3 Ω (±4 oC)
100 oC: 38,5 ± 3,0 Ω (±4 oC)
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Group 30 Electrical system
1. Battery
2. Starter motor
3. Alternator
4. Main switch
5. Glow plugs
6. Oil pressure monitor, engine
7. Oil pressure sensor
8. Coolant temperature monitor
9. Coolant temperature sensor
10. Fuses (4 pcs.), max. 15A (+)
11. Starter relay
12. Glowplug relay
13. Magnetisation resistance
14. Engine speed sensor
Engine
Cable colors
BL = Blue LBL = Light blue BN = Brown LBN = Light brown GN = Green GR = Gray OR = Orange PU = Purple R = Red SB = Black W = White Y = Yellow
Cable cross section in mm2 is given after the color code on the wiring diagram.
Cross section not given = 1.0 mm
2
.
Dotted wires not included from Volvo Penta.
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92
Group 30 Electrical system
1. Instrument illumination
2. Tachometere with built-in running hours timer (extra equip.). Or blanking plug
3. Connector for connecting extra warning display (optional equipment)
4. Electronic unit (alarm)
5. Warning lamp, coolant temperature
6. Warning lamp, oil pressure
7. Charge warning lamp
8. Indication lamp, glow plugs
9. Starter button
10. Press switch. Instrument panel On/Off
11. Connector for connecting extra neutral position switch (optional equipment)
12. Semiconductor diode
13. Alarm
14. Tumbler switch. Glow – Alarm test/Acknowledge
15. 16-pin connector
Cable colors
BL = Blue BN = Brown GN = Green GR = Gray OR = Orange PU = Purple R = Red SB = Black W = White Y = Yellow
Cable cross section in mm2 is given after the color code on the wiring diagram.
Instrument panel, alternative “A” *
* (without starter switch)
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Group 30 Electrical system
Instrument panel, alternative “B” *
* (with starter switch)
Spring biased
Spring biased 1. Instrument illumination
2. Tachometere with built-in running hours timer (extra equip.). Or blanking plug
3. Connector for connecting extra warning display (optional equipment)
4. Electronic unit (alarm)
5. Warning lamp, coolant temperature
6. Warning lamp, oil pressure
7. Charge warning lamp
8. Indication lamp, glow plugs
9. Switch, instrument lighting
10. Switch - Alarm test/Acknowledge
11. Key switch
12. Alarm
13. Connector for connecting neutral position switch (extra equip.)
14. 16-pin connection
Cable colors
BL = Blue BN = Brown GN = Green GR = Gray OR = Orange R = Red SB = Black VO = Violet W = White Y = Yellow
Cable cross section in mm
2
is given after the color
code on the wiring diagram.
Cross section not given = 1.0 mm
2
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Group 30 Electrical system
Instrument panel, alternative “C”
1. Instrument lighting
2. Voltmeter
3. Oil pressure gauge
4. Coolant temperature gauge
5. Connector for connection of extra warning display (extra equip.)
6. Electronic unit (alarm)
7. Warning lamp, coolant temperature
8. Warning lamp, oil pressure
9. Charge warning lamp
10. Indication lamp, glow plugs
11. Switch, instrument lighting
12. Switch - Alarm test/Acknowledge
13. Tachometer with built-in running hours timer (extra equip.). Or blanking plug
14. Key switch
15. Alarm
16. Connector for connecting neutral position switch (extra equip.)
17. 16-pin connector
18. 2-pole connector (for possible additional panel)
Cable cross section in mm2 is given after the color code on the wiring diagram.
Cross section not given = 1.0 mm
2
Spring biased
Spring biased
Cable colors
BL = Blue LBL = Light blue BN = Brown LBN = Light brown GN = Green GR = Gray OR = Orange R = Red SB = Black VO = Violet W = White Y = Yellow
Page 97
95
Group 20 Technical data
General
Engine designation ............................................................ D2-55 A/B/C D2-75 A
No. of cylinders ................................................................. 4 4
Induction system .............................................................. Atmospheric pressure Turbocharger with
charge air cooler
Bore .............................................................................. 84 mm 84 mm
Stroke ........................................................................... 100 mm 100 mm
Cylinder volume, total ................................................... 2.2 liter 2.2 liter
Power output, see sales literature
Idling speed .................................................................. 850 ± 25 rpm 850 ± 25 rpm
High idle ........................................................................ 3185 ±15 rpm 3240 ±15 rpm
Compression ratio ......................................................... 23,3:1 23,3:1
Compression pressure at starter motor speed ............... >27 Bar >27 Bar
Firing sequence (cyl. no. 4 closest to flywheel) .............. 1-3-4-2 1-3-4-2
Direction of rotation (seen from front) ............................ Clockwise Clockwise
Max. permissible rearwards inclination in operation ....... 20
o
20
o
Max. side inclination in operation................................... 30
o
30
o
Valve clearance, stationary cold engine, inlet and exhaust ... 0.20 mm 0.20 mm
Weight, engine less oil and water .................................. 225 kg 250.6 kg
Max. permitted back-pressure in exhaust system ......... 20 kPa 20 kPa
Pistons
Material ......................................................................... Aluminum alloy Aluminum alloy
Height, total .................................................................. 87.66-87.74 mm 87.66-87.74 mm
Height from gudgeon pin center to piston crown ............ 47.66-47.74 mm 47.66-47.74 mm
Piston clearance ........................................................... 0.038-0.072 mm 0.038-0.072 mm
Front marking ................................................................ “SHIBAURA”-mark inside piston shall when mounted
face the fuel pump (D2-55 A/B/C & D2-75).
Piston rings
Compression rings:
Quantity ........................................................................ 2 2
Upper compression ring, height ..................................... 1.97-1.99 mm 1.97-1.99 mm
2nd compression ring, height ........................................ 1.47-1.49 mm 1.47-1.49 mm
Oil ring:
Quantity ........................................................................ 1 1
Height ........................................................................... 3.90-3.98 mm 3.90-3.98 mm
Piston ring gap in cylinder:
Upper compression ring ................................................ 0.20-0.35 mm 0.20-0.35 mm
2nd compression ring .................................................... 0.20-0.40 mm 0.20-0.40 mm
Piston ring clearance in groove,
upper compression ring ................................................. 0.07-0.11 mm 0.07-0.11 mm
2nd compression ring .................................................... 0.04-0.08 mm 0.04-0.08 mm
oil ring ........................................................................... 0.02-0.06 mm 0.02-0.06 mm
Gudgeon pins
Clearance, piston pin – connecting rod bush ................. 0.010-0.027 mm 0.010-0.027 mm
gudgeon pin – gudgeon pin hole .................................... -0.001- +0.011 mm -0.001- +0.011 mm
Gudgeon pin diameter ................................................... 27.996-28.000 mm 27.996-28.000 mm
Conrod bush int. diameter ............................................. 28.010-28.021 mm 28.010-28.021 mm
Gudgeon pin hole diameter in piston ............................. 27.999-28.005 mm 27.999-28.005 mm
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96
Group 20 Technical data
D2-55 A/B/C D2-75 A
Cylinder head
Height ........................................................................... 69.7-70.3 mm 69.7-70.3 mm
Valve seat (inlet and exhaust)
Inlet, diameter ............................................................... 36.35-36.45 mm 36.35-36.45 mm
Exhaust, diameter ......................................................... 32.35-32.45 mm 32.35-32.45 mm
Inlet, width .................................................................... 1.5-2.0 mm 1.5-2.0 mm
Exhaust, width .............................................................. 1.9-2.2 mm 1.9-2.2 mm
Crankshaft with bearings
(Replaceable bearing shells for main and big-end bearings)
Crankshaft, end float ..................................................... 0.1-0.4 mm 0.1-0.4 mm
Main bearings, radial clearance
no. 1, 2, 3 & 4 ................................. 0.044-0.102 mm 0.044-0.102 mm
Main bearing journals
Diameter in mm, bearing journal, standard
no. 1, 2, 3 & 4 ................................. 67,957-67,970 67,957-67,970
Big end journals
Big end, radial clearance ............................................... 0,035-0.085 mm 0,035-0.085 mm
Length of bearing journal ............................................... 17,70-20.60 mm 17,70-20.60 mm
Diameter, standard ........................................................ 51,964 -51.975 mm 51,964-51.975 mm
Big end journal shells
Thickness in mm, standard ........................................... 1,482-1,495 1,482-1,495
Con rods
Fitted with replaceable bearing shells.
Diameter, conrod bush bearing position .......... 30,500-30,516 30,500-30,516
bearing shell bearing position .......... 28,010-28,021 28,010-28,021
gudgeon pin bush ........................... 28,010-28,021 28,010-28,021
End float, con rod – crankshaft ..................................... 0.035-0.085 mm 0.035-0.085 mm
Page 99
97
Group 20 Technical data
D2-55 A/B/C D2-75 A
Camshaft
Drive ............................................................................. Gear wheel Gear wheel
No of bearings ............................................................... 3 3
Valve timing:
inlet valves opens b.t.d.c. .......... 13
o
13
o
closes a.b.d.c. ........ 43
o
43
o
exhaust valves opens b.b.d.c. ......... 43
o
43
o
closes a.t.d.c.......... 13
o
13
o
Valves
Inlet
Valve stem diameter ..................................................... 6.955-6.970 mm 6.955-6.970 mm
Valve head edge ........................................................... 0.925-1.075 mm 0.925-1.075 mm
Clearance, valve stem - valve guide ............................. 0.03-0.06 mm 0.03-0.06 mm
Valve seat angle in cylinder head .................................. 45
o
45
o
Valve clearance, cold engine ......................................... 0.20 mm 0.20 mm
Exhaust
Valve stem diameter ..................................................... 6.94-6.95 mm 6.94-6.95 mm
Valve head edge ........................................................... 0.925-1.075 mm 0.925-1.075 mm
Clearance, valve stem - valve guide ............................. 0.050-0.075 mm 0.050-0.075 mm
Valve seat angle in cylinder head .................................. 45
o
45
o
Valve clearance, cold engine ......................................... 0.20 mm 0.20 mm
Valve springs
Length unloaded ................................................. 35 mm 35 mm
with 79.4 N (8.1 kp) load ......................... 30.4 mm 30.4 mm
Pushrods
Length, total .................................................................. 226 mm 226 mm
Outer diameter .............................................................. 6.35 mm 6.35 mm
Rocker arm mechanism
Rocker arm shaft, diameter ........................................... 14.95-14.97 mm 14.95-14.97 mm
Clearance, rocker arm shaft – rocker arm bush ............. 0.030-0.093 mm 0.030-0.093 mm
Lubrication system
Oil pressure, hot engine at operating speed .................. 150-500 kPa 150-500 kPa
Oil pressure, idle ........................................................... 50-150 kPa 50-150 kPa
Reduction valve, opening pressure ................................ 245-345 kPa 245-345 kPa
Lubrication oil pump:
clearance, inner - outer rotor ................... 0.01-0.15 mm 0.01-0.15 mm
end float, rotor - cover ............................. 0.01-0.15 mm 0.01-0.15 mm
Oil grade ....................................................................... VDS-2, VDS-2,
..................................................................................... ACEA E5, ACEA E5,
..................................................................................... API CH-4 API CH-4
Viscosity at -5 to +50°C* ............................................... SAE 15W/40, SAE 15W/40,
..................................................................................... SAE 20W/50 SAE 20W/50
Max oil volume incl. oil filter, no engine
inclination, approx. ........................................................ 10.6 liter 10.6 liter
Min. oil volume incl. oil filter, no engine
inclination, approx. ........................................................ 8.9 liter 8.9 liter
*Note The temperature values refer to constant ambient temperatures
Page 100
98
Group 20 Technical data
D2-55 A/B/C D2-75 A
Fuel system
Injection sequence ........................................................ 1-3-4-2 1-3-4-2
Feed pump max. suction height .................................... 0.8 m 0.8 m
Feed pressure ............................................................... 15-25 kPa 15-25 kPa
Injection pump
Injection start, crankshaft position ................................ 22.0o ± 1o b.t.d.c. 22.0o ± 1o b.t.d.c.
Pump element diameter ................................................ 6 mm 6 mm
Stroke ........................................................................... 7 mm 7 mm
Injectors
Opening pressure (for checking) .................................... 15.2-16.2 MPa 15.2-16.2 MPa
Opening pressure (when adjusting) ................................ 15.7 MPa 15.7 MPa
Needle valve, diameter.................................................. 4 mm 4 mm
Pin diameter .................................................................. 1 mm 1 mm
Jet angle ....................................................................... 4
o
4
o
Cooling system
Type .............................................................................. Over-pressure, Over-pressure,
closed cooling system closed cooling system
Freshwater system volume, approx. .............................. 9.5 liter 9.8 liter
Thermostat, qty. ............................................................ 1 1
Thermostat starts opening at ........................................ 82o ± 4oC82
o
± 4oC
fully open at .................................................................. 95 oC 95 oC
Thermostat valve lifting height ...................................... 8 mm 8 mm
Electrical system
System voltage ............................................................. 12 V 12 V
Fuses ........................................................................... 15 A 15 A
Battery capacity (starter battery)................................... 88 Ah 88 Ah
Glow plugs:
rated voltage ................................................................. 10.5 V 10.5 V
current .......................................................................... 6.9 A 6.9 A
Alternator
Voltage output at +20 °C with sensor ................ 14.2 ± 0.15 V 14.2 ± 0.15 V
without sensor............ 14.2 ± 0.3 V 14.2 ± 0.3 V
Max current ................................................................... 115 A 115 A
Power, approx. .............................................................. 1630 W 1630 W
Suppression capacitor ................................................... 2.2 μF 2.2 μF
Starter motor
Starter motor, power app. .............................................. 2.0 kW 2.0 kW
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