Viper Responder LE 5701 Installation Manual

Responder LE Model 5701
Security and Remote Start
Installation Guide
Note: This product is intended for installation by a professional installer
only! Any attempt to install this product by any person other than a trained professional may result in severe damage to a vehicle’s electrical system and components.
© 2008 Directed Electronics, Vista, CA
N5202V 2008-02
Bitwriter®, Code Hopping™, Doubleguard®, ESP™, FailSafe®, Ghost Switch™, Learn Routine™, Nite-Lite®, Nuisance Prevention® Circuitry, Revenger®, Silent Mode™, Soft Chirp®, Stinger®, Valet®, Vehicle Recovery System®, VRS®, and Warn Away® are all Trademarks or Registered Trade­marks of Directed Electronics.
The Bitwriter® (p/n 998U) requires chip version 2.5 or newer to program this unit.
Bitwriters with date code of 6C or older require an IC upgrade (p/n 998M). Bitwriter 2 compatible.
Table of contents
What is included . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Warning! Safety first . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Installation points to remember . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Deciding on component locations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Finding the wires you need . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Making your wiring connections . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Auxiliary harness (H2), 8-pin connector . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Door lock harness, 3-pin connector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector . . . . 22
Remote start input, 5-pin connector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Wire connection guides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Primary harness (H1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Auxiliary harness (H2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Door lock wiring diagrams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Heavy guage, 10-pin connector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Remote start input-5-pin connector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Outputs for optional external remote start relays . . . . . 47
Neutral safety switch interface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Plug-in LED and valet/program switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Programmer interface, 3-pin black plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Optional sensor port - 4 pin connector . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Tach learning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
D2D jumper settings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
Setting the light flash polarity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Remote control learn routine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 56
Remote control configuration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58
System features learn routine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60
Feature menus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63
Feature descriptions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
Nuisance prevention circuitry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Valet mode . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77
Manual transmission remote start . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Timer mode. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79
Long term event history . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
Table of zones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81
Shutdown diagnostics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82
Remote starting diagnostics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Remote start safety check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83
Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85
Quick reference wiring guide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
5
What is included
The control module with Stinger™ DoubleGuard® two-stage shock
sensor
Control center (installed out of sight) with integrated status LED
and Valet Override switch (p/n 6211T)
One five-button/2-way Supercode Responder LE Remote Control,
(p/n 7251V)
One five-button /1-way Supercode Remote (p/n 7152V) Revenger™Soft Chirp™ six-tone programmable siren A shut-down toggle switch
  
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
6
Warning! Safety rst
The following safety warnings must be observed at all times:
Due to the complexity of this system, installation of this product must only
be performed by an authorized Directed Electronics dealer.
When properly installed, this system can start the vehicle via a command
signal from the remote control Therefore, never operate the system in an area
that does not have adequate ventilation. The following precautions are the
sole responsibility of the user; however, authorized Directed Electronics dealers
should make the following recommendations to all users of this system:
Never operate the system in an enclosed or partially enclosed area without ventilation (such as a garage). When parking in an enclosed or partially enclosed area or when having the vehicle serviced, the remote start system must be disabled using the installed toggle switch. It is the user's sole responsibility to properly handle and keep out of reach from children all remote controls to assure that the system does not unin­tentionally remote start the vehicle.
USER MUST INSTALL A CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTOR IN OR ABOUT THE LIVING AREA ADJACENT TO THE VEHICLE. ALL DOORS LEADING FROM ADJACENT LIVING AREAS TO THE ENCLOSED OR PARTIALLY ENCLOSED VEHICLE STORAGE AREA MUST REMAIN CLOSED AT ALL TIMES.
Use of this product in a manner contrary to its intended mode of operation
may result in property damage, personal injury, or death. Except when performing
the Safety Check outlined in this installation guide, (1) Never remotely start the
vehicle with the vehicle in gear, and (2) Never remotely start the vehicle with
the keys in the ignition. The user will be responsible for having the neutral
safety feature of the vehicle periodically checked, wherein the vehicle must not
remotely start while the car is in gear. This testing should be performed by
an authorized Directed Electronics dealer in accordance with the Safety Check
outlined in this product installation guide. If the vehicle starts in gear, cease
remote start operation immediately and consult with the user to fix the problem
immediately.
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© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
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After the remote start module has been installed, test the remote start
module in accordance with the Safety Check outlined in this installation
guide. If the vehicle starts when performing the Neutral Safety Shutdown
Circuit test, the remote start unit has not been properly installed. The remote
start module must be removed or properly reinstalled so that the vehicle
does not start in gear. All installations must be performed by an authorized
Directed Electronics dealer. OPERATION OF THE REMOTE START MODULE IF THE
VEHICLE STARTS IN GEAR IS CONTRARY TO ITS INTENDED MODE OF OPERATION.
OPERATING THE REMOTE START SYSTEM UNDER THESE CONDITIONS MAY RESULT
IN PROPERTY DAMAGE OR PERSONAL INJURY. IMMEDIATELY CEASE THE USE
OF THE UNIT AND REPAIR OR DISCONNECT THE INSTALLED REMOTE START
MODULE. DIRECTED ELECTRONICS, INC. WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE OR
PAY FOR INSTALLATION OR REINSTALLATION COSTS.
Remote starters for manual transmission pose significant risks if not
properly installed and operated. When testing to ensure the installation is
working properly, only remote start the vehicle in neutral gear, on a flat surface
and with a functional, fully engaged parking brake. Do not allow anyone to stand
in front of or behind the vehicle.
This product should NOT be installed in any convertible vehicles, soft or hard
top. Installation in such vehicles may pose certain risk.
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
8
Installation points to remember
This product is designed for fuel-injected, automatic transmission, or vehicles with manual transmissions.
Note: The default option “Manual” is a safety precaution that forces the installer to enable the Manual Transmission Mode (MTS) routine or program the unit to the “Automatic” option before the remote start can be activated for the first time.
The “Automatic” option will need to be programmed On to work with automatic transmissions. When the “Manual” option is selected a specific routine is re­quired before exiting the vehicle to enable the MTS mode.
Before beginning the installation
Please read this entire installation guide before beginning the installation.
The installation of this remote start system requires interfacing with many of the
vehicle’s systems. Many new vehicles use low-voltage or multiplexed systems that
can be damaged by low resistance testing devices, such as test lights and logic
probes (computer safe test lights). Test all circuits with a high quality digital
multi-meter before making connections.
Do not disconnect the battery if the vehicle has an anti-theft-coded radio.
If equipped with an air bag, avoid disconnecting the battery if possible. Many
airbag systems will display a diagnostic code through their warning lights after
they lose power. Disconnecting the battery requires this code to be erased, which
can require a trip to the dealer.
If using an external LED or Valet Switch, check with the customer about where
to locate the switch.
To avoid accidental battery drainage; turn off the interior lights or remove
the dome light fuse.
Roll down a window to avoid being locked out of the car.
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
9
After the installation
Test all functions. The “Using Your System” section of the Owner's Guide is
very helpful when testing.
When testing, don’t forget that this system is equipped with Nuisance
Prevention® Circuitry (NPC). NPC can bypass trigger zones, making them appear
to stop working. See the Nuisance Prevention® Circuitry section.
Review and complete the Safety Check section of this guide prior to the
vehicle reassembly.
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
10
Deciding on component locations
Siren
Some things to remember about mounting the siren:
Keep it away from heat sources, such as radiators, exhaust manifolds, turbo­chargers, and heat shields.
Mount it where a thief cannot easily disconnect it, whether the hood is open or shut. Both the siren and its wires should be difficult to find. This usually in­volves disguising the wire to look like a factory harness.
We do not recommend grounding the siren to its mounting screws. Instead, we recommend running both the red and black wires into the passenger com­partment and grounding to one common point for all devices. Both wires are the same length and come already bonded together to make it easier. Whenever possible, conceal your wires in the factory harnesses or in the same style loom as the factory.
When possible, place the siren on the same side of the vehicle as the control module, where its wires will reach the control module’s wires without extending them. Always run the wires through the center of a grommet, never through bare metal!
Point the siren down so water does not collect in it.
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
11
Control module
Some things to remember about where to mount the control module:
Never put the control module in the engine compartment!
The first step in hot-wiring a vehicle is removing the driver's side under-dash
panel to access the starter and ignition wires. If the control module is placed just behind the driver's side dash it can easily be disconnected.
When mounting the control module, try to find a secure location that will not require you to extend the harnesses’ wires (they are 1.5 meters long). Keep it away from the heater core (or any other heat sources) and any obvious leaks.
Some good control module locations are: Above the glove box, inside the center console, above the under-dash fuse box, or above the radio.
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
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The control center
The control center position should be discussed with the vehicle’s owner prior to installation. The LED and Valet switch is housed on the control center, so you will want to make sure that the customer is satisfied with the location.
Doubleguard shock sensor
Since the shock sensor is built into the main unit, be sure to keep the shock sensor performance in mind when deciding on a location for the main unit.
Note: In many vehicles, fastening the main unit (the brain) to a steering column or screwing it to metal will result in poor sensitivity, especially at the rear of the vehicle.
Valet® program switch
The valet/program switch is built into the control center.
Important! When the vehicle is delivered, please show the user where this switch is located and how to disarm the system with it.
Note: An optional valet switch (p/n #8631) is available if the onboard valet switch is not used for the install.
When installing the external valet switch ensure that the location has sufficient clearance to the rear. The switch should be well hidden. It should be placed so passengers or stored items (such as in a glove box or center console) cannot ac­cidentally hit it. The switch fits into a 9/32-inch hole.
Status LED
The status LED is built into the control center. An optional LED (p/n 8634) is available if the onboard LED will not be used for the install. The LED fits into a 9/32-inch hole.
Valet switch
LED
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
13
Finding the wires you need
Now that you have decided where each component will be located, you are ready to find the wires in the car that the security system connects to.
Important! Do not use a 12V test light or logic probe (computer safe test light) to find these wires! Use a digital multi meter for all testing.
Obtaining constant 12V
We recommend two possible sources for 12V constant: the (+) terminal of the battery, or the constant supply to the ignition switch. Always install a fuse within 12 inches of this connection. The fuse will also be powering other circuits such as door locks and interface modules, so fuse accordingly. Important! Do not remove the fuse holder on the red wire. It ensures that the control module has its own fuse, of the proper value, regardless of how many ac­cessories are added to the main power feed.
12V switched ignition wire
The ignition wire is powered when the key is in the run or start position. This is because the ignition wire powers the ignition system (spark plugs, coil) as well as the fuel delivery system (fuel pump, fuel injection computer). Accessory wires lose power when the key is in the start position to make more current available to the starter motor.
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
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How to find (+)12V ignition with your multi meter:
Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine). Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground. Probe the wire you suspect of being the ignition wire. The steering column harness or ignition switch harness is an excellent place to find this wire. Turn the ignition key switch to the run position. If your meter reads (+)12V, go to the next step. If it doesn’t, probe another wire. Now turn the key to the start position. The meter display should stay steady, not dropping by more than a few tenths of a volt. If it drops close to or all the way to zero, go back to Step 3. If it stays steady at (+)12V, you have found an ignition wire.
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© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
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Starter wire
The starter wire provides 12V directly to the starter or to a relay controlling the starter. In some vehicles, it is necessary to power a cold start circuit. A cold start circuit will test exactly like a starter circuit, but it does not control the starter. Instead, the cold start circuit is used to prime the fuel injection system for start­ing when the vehicle is cold.
How to find the starter wire with your multi meter:
Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine). Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground. Probe the wire you suspect of being the starter wire. The steering column is an excellent place to find this wire. Remember you do not need to interrupt the starter at the same point you are testing. Turn the ignition key switch to the start position. Make sure the car is not in gear! If your meter reads (+)12V, go to the next step. If it doesn’t, probe another wire. Cut the wire you suspect of being the starter wire. Attempt to start the car. If the starter engages, reconnect it and go back to Step 3. If the starter does not turn over, you have the right wire.
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© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
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Accessory wire
An accessory wire shows +12V when the key is in the accessory and run positions. It does not show +12V during the cranking cycle. There are often more than one ac­cessory wire in the ignition harness. The correct accessory wire powers the vehicle's climate control system. Some vehicles may have separate wires for the blower motor and the air conditioning compressor. In such cases, it is necessary to add relay to power the second accessory wire.
Tachometer wire
Note: The system has Virtual Tach which automatically test the engine volt­age in automatic transmission vehicles. The below wire test would be used only if Virtual Tach or Voltage Mode is not working. When install­ing this unit on a manual transmission vehicle, the wire must be used.
To test for a tachometer wire, a multi meter capable of testing AC voltage must be used. The tachometer wire will show between 1V and 6V AC. In multi-coil ignition systems, the system can learn individual coil wires. Individual coil wires in a multi-coil ignition system will register lower amounts of AC voltage. Also, if necessary, the system can use a fuel injector control wire for engine speed sens­ing. Common locations for a tachometer wire are the ignition coil itself, the back of the gauges, engine computers, and automatic transmission computers.
WARNING! Do not test tachometer wires using a test light or logic probe (com­puter safe test light). This will damage the vehicle.
How to find a tachometer wire with your multi meter:
Set to ACV or AC voltage (12V or 20V is fine). Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground. Start and run the vehicle. Probe the wire you suspect of being the tachometer wire with the red probe of the meter. The wire should read between 1v and 6v and will normally change when revving up the engine. If the voltage changes with engine speed, you have the correct wire.
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© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
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Wait-to-start bulb wire for diesels
Note: The system has a programmable onboard timer (See Menu#3 Feature 9), so it is not necessary to connect the wait-to-start wire.
In diesel vehicles you can interface with the wire that turns on the WAIT-TO­START light in the dashboard. This wire illuminates the bulb until the vehicle’s glow plugs are properly heated. When the light goes out the vehicle can be started. This wire is always available at the connector leading to the bulb in the dashboard. It can also be found at the Engine Control Module (ECM) in many vehicles.
To test for polarity of the wait-to-start wire:
Set your multi meter to DCV or DC voltage (12 or 20V is fine). Attach the (+) probe of the meter to (+)12V. Probe the wire that you suspect leads to the bulb with the (-) probe of the meter. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. If the meter indicates 12 volts until the light goes out, you have isolated the correct wire. The wire's polarity is negative (ground while the bulb is on).
If the meter reads zero volts until the light goes out and then reads 12 volts, you have isolated the correct wire and the wire's polarity is positive.
Parking light wire
The parking light (+) or (-) wire is often found near the switch. Many cars have the switch built into the turn signal lever, with the parking light wire found in the steering column. The same wire is often available in the kick panel or run­ning board.
Some newer vehicles have multiplexed circuits that will also need to be interfaced with (check the vehicle information sheet) these cars usually require that the switch be isolated (5 wired), this unit has a white/brown wire on the main har­ness to interface with these circuits without having to add an additional relay.
Note: Remember, you need a parking light wire that does not vary with the dimmer setting.
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© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
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How to find a (+) or (-) parking light wire with your multi meter:
Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine). If you are looking for a positive circuit attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground. If you are looking for a negative circuit, attach (+) probe of your meter to +12V constant. Probe the wire you suspect of being the parking light wire. Usually, the area near the headlight/parking light switch is an excellent area to start, as is the kick panel. Turn on the parking lights. If your meter shows (+)12V, turn off the parking lights and make sure it goes back to zero. If the meter returns to zero, turn the parking lights back on and using the dash light dimmer control, turn the brightness of the dash lights up and
down. If the meter changes more than a volt when using the dimmer, look for another wire. If it stays relatively close to (+)12V, you have found your parking light wire.
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© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
19
Door pin switch circuit
The best places to test for the door switch wire are:
Pin switch When testing at the pin switch, check the wire to ensure that it “sees” all the doors. Often, the passenger switch will cover all the doors even if the driver’s switch will not.
Dome light This may not be your best choice if the vehicle has delayed dome light supervi­sion, but it will work in any vehicle with completely diode-isolated or normally­closed pin switches.
Once you have determined the wire color, the easiest place to connect to the wire is likely the kick panel, at the windshield pillar - or in the running board. When an easy location is not available, running a wire to the dome light is the best alternative.
How to find a door pin switch trigger wire with your multi meter:
Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine). If you are looking for a positive circuit fasten the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground. If you are looking for a negative circuit, fasten the (+) probe of your meter to (+)12V constant. Probe the wire you suspect of being the door trigger wire. If the meter reads (+)12V when any door is opened, you have found a trigger wire.
Note: To ensure the wire “sees” all the doors, open each door and check the meter reading.
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2.
3.
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
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Making your wiring connections
Before making your connections, plan how your wires will be routed through the vehicle. For instance, the red 12V constant input and the remote start ignition wires will often be routed together to the ignition switch harness. In order to keep the wiring neat and make it harder to find, you may wish to wrap these wires together in electrical tape or conceal them in tubing similar to what the manufacturer used.
There are two acceptable ways of making a wire connection - solder connections and crimp connectors. When properly performed, either type of connection is reliable and trouble-free. Regardless of whether you solder your connections or you use mechanical-type crimp-on connections, ensure that all connections are mechanically sound and that they are insulated.
Cheap electrical tape, especially when poorly applied, is not a reliable insulator. It often falls off in hot weather. Use good-quality electrical tape or heat shrink.
Never twist-and-tape the wires together without soldering.
Never use “fuse taps”, as they can damage fuse box terminals.
If you use tapping connectors such as 3M T-Taps (not to be confused with Scotch­Locks), avoid using them in higher-current applications (constant 12V, ground, etc.) Some tapping connectors are inferior in quality and should be avoided.
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
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Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
H1/1
RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
H1/2
RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT
H1/3
BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT
H1/4
WHITE/ BROWN
LIGHT FLASH -ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay
H1/5
BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND
H1/6
VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
H1/7
BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT
H1/8
GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
H1/9
BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
H1/10
WHITE/BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION
INPUT
H1/11
WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT
H1/12
ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT
Auxiliary harness (H2), 8-pin connector
H2/1
LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK
(-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
H2/2
LIGHT GREEN/ WHITE
(-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT
H2/3
WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
H2/4
VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
H2/5
WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
H2/6
LIGHT BLUE (-) 200mA 2ND UNLOCK OUTPUT
H2/7
GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT
H2/8
BROWN/BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
22
Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1
BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT
2
EMPTY NOT USED
3
GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT
There are three harness connections relative to remote start function, including the heavy gauge and input and output harnesses.
Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector
1
PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
2
RED/WHITE (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
3
ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT
4
VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)
5
GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)
6
RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT
7
PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
8
PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
9
RED/BLACK FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
10
N/C N/C
Remote start input, 5-pin connector
1
BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT
2
VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE
3
BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN WIRE
4
GRAY N/O or N/C (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT, ZONE 6
5
BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
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Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin
1
PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT
2
ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3
VIOLET (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
4
PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT
5
BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
Note: Wires 1 - 4 on the remote auxiliary outputs are wired to the (-) triggers for the onboard remote start relays and are not diode isolated. If wiring these wires directly to the vehicle you must place a 1-amp diode in line to prevent feedback from the vehicle.
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
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Wire connection guides
Primary harness (H1)
H1/1 RED/WHITE Aux/Trunk release , 200mA (-) outputt
When the system receives the code controlling trunk release output for longer than 1.5 seconds, the red/white wire will supply an output as long as the trans­mission continues. This is typically used to operate a trunk/hatch release or other relay-driven function.
Important! Never use this wire to drive anything but a relay or a low-current input! The transistorized output can only supply 200mA of current. Connecting directly to a solenoid, motor, or other high-current device will cause it to fail.
H1/2 RED (+)12V Constant power input
Before connecting this wire, remove the supplied fuse. Connect to the battery positive terminal or the constant 12V supply to the ignition switch.
Note: Always use a fuse within 12 inches of the point you obtain (+)12V. Do not use the 15A fuse in the harness for this purpose. This fuse protects the module itself.
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
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H1/3 BROWN (+) Siren output
Connect this to the red wire of the siren. Connect the black wire of the siren to (-) chassis ground, preferably at the same point you connected the control module’s black ground wire.
1/3
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN - Onboard light flash relay
This wire connects to pin 87a of the onboard light flash relay. It is used whenever light switch isolation on the vehicle is necessary. If the vehicle has a multiplex circuit that needs the light switch isolated, you can remove the onboard light flash fuse and replace it with the specified resistor (paying attention to the polarity selection).
xx
Lightswitch
Multiplex
wire in car
White/Brown
White
Cut
Replace fuse with
specied resistor value
Light Flash Fuse
Jumper under door
To control
module in car
Multiplex Lightash Interface
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
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H1/5 BLACK (-) Chassis ground connection
We recommend that you do not use a factory ground. Ground all your components including the siren, to the same point in the vehicle, (preferably the kick panel). Scrape away any paint and use a factory bolt or make your own ground with a self-tapping screw and a star washer.
© 2008 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
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H1/6 VIOLET (+) Door trigger input, zone 3
This wire is used in vehicles that have a positive (+) switched dome light circuit. Connect the violet wire to a wire that shows (+)12V when any door is opened, and ground when the door is closed. This wire will report Zone 3.
H1/7 BLUE (-) Trunk pin /instant trigger input, zone 1
This input will respond to a negative input with an instant trigger. This is ideal for a trunk pin. It can also be used with Directed single-stage sensors and will report on Zone 1.
H1/8 GREEN (-) Door trigger input, zone 3
Most vehicles use negative door trigger circuits. Connect the green wire to a wire which shows ground when any door is opened. In vehicles with factory delays on the dome light circuit, there is usually a wire that is unaffected by the delay circuitry. This wire will report Zone 3.
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