Viper 300+ Installation Manual

Table of Contents

Experienced security installers may skip to Pg. 8, but read

all the italicized sections, as they describe changes and/or new features.

Installation Points to Remember Page 2

Deciding on Component Location 3

Finding the Wires you Need 5

Step-by-step meter instructions!

Making your Wire Connections 7

Primary Harness Diagram 8

Wire Connection Guide 9

Plug in LED and Valet®/Program Switch 11

Four-pin Shock Sensor Harness 11

Bypassing Sensor Inputs 12

Door Lock Wiring Diagrams 12-15

Transmitter/Receiver Learn Routine

™

Two-vehicle Operation with Single Transmitter 17

Operating-Settings Learn Routine

™

New Double Pulse Unlock Feature

Feature Descriptions 20

Nuisance Prevention®Circuitry 21

Valet®Mode 21

Table of Zones 22

Troubleshooting 22

INSTALLATION

GUIDE

Directed Electronics, Inc.

VVIIPPEERR

300

Primary

harness

Two 471T

remote

transmitters

Pre-wired 8618

Starter Kill

Relay

2-pin

mini blue

Valet®/

Program

plug

2-pin

micro

LED

plug

Stinger

™

Double

Guard™ Shock

Sensor

Adjustment

3-pin

2-wire

door

lock

harness

INSTALLATION POINTS TO REMEMBER

514T

Revenger

Soft Chirp

™

siren

Plug-in

Status LED

Plug-in

Valet®/Program

switch

Do not disconnect the battery if the vehicle has an antitheft-coded radio. If equipped with an air bag, avoid disconnecting the battery if possible. IMPORTANT: Many airbag systems will display a diagnostic code through their warning light after they lose power. Disconnecting the battery requires this code to be erased, a procedure that can require a trip to the dealer.

Before beginning the installation:

• Check with the customer on Status LED location.

• Remove the domelight fuse. This prevents accidentally draining the battery.

• Roll down a window to avoid being locked out of the car.

After the install:

• Test all functions. The "Using Your System" section of the Owner's Guide is very helpful when testing.

• When testing, don’t forget that this system is equipped with Nuisance Prevention® Circuitry.

NPC™ can bypass trigger zones, making them appear to stop working. (See page 21)

Step One:

Deciding on Component Locations

Siren

Some things to remember when mounting the siren:

• Keep it away from heat sources. Radiators, exhaust manifolds, turbochargers, and heat shields are all things to avoid.

• Mount it where a thief cannot easily disconnect it, whether the hood is open or shut. Both the siren and its wires should be difficult to find. This usually involves disguising the wire to look like a factory harness.

• We recommend against grounding the siren to its mounting screws. Instead, we recommend running both the red and black wires into the passenger compartment and grounding to one common point for all devices. After all, both wires are the same length and come already bonded together. Whenever possible, conceal your wires in the factory harnesses or in the same style loom as the factory.

• When possible, put the siren on the same side of the vehicle as the control module, where its wires will reach the control module’s wires without extending them. Always run the wires through the center of a grommet, never through bare metal!

• Point the siren down so water does not collect in it.

Control Module

Never put the control module in the engine compartment! The first step in hot-wiring a vehicle is removing the driver's side underdash panel to access the starter and ignition

wires. If the control module is placed just behind the driver's side dash it can easily be disconnected. When locating the control module, try to find a secure location that will not require you to extend the harnesses’ wires

(they are 1.5 meters long). Keep it away from the heater core (or any other heat sources) and any obvious leaks.

The higher the control module is in the vehicle, the better the transmitter range will be. If you put the control module under a seat or inside a metal dashboard, range will suffer, and you may wish to add a 542T Range Extending Antenna (available separately).

Some good control module locations: Above the glove box, inside the center console, above the underdash fuse box, above the radio, etc.

Stinger® Doubleguard® Shock Sensor

How the control module is mounted is the single biggest factor in the performance of the on-board shock sensor. We recommend two mounting methods: using double-sided tape or hook-and-loop fastener to mount to a trim panel or an air duct, or wire-tying to a wire harness.

NOTE: In many vehicles, screwing the control module to metal will result in poor sensitivity, especially on the rear of the vehicle.

If mounting the module where the sensor's adjustment screw cannot be easily reached for adjustment, hook-and-loop fastening tape (such as Velcro) is recommended for ease of removal for future adjustments.

If the sensor must be temporarily bypassed for any reason, please see pg. 12.

Valet® Program Switch

Ensure that the location you pick for the switch has sufficient clearance to the rear. The switch should be well hidden. It should be placed so passengers or stored items (such as in a glove box or center console) cannot accidentally hit it. The switch fits in a 9/32" hole.

This system has Remote Valet®. The user can enter and exit Valet® Mode without having to reach the Valet®/program switch. DEI® introduced this feature so that switch location was less critical in day-to-day use. As long as the Valet®/program switch can be reached to disarm without a transmitter, easy access is not important.

IMPORTANT! When the vehicle is delivered, please show the user where the switches are located and how to disarm the system with it.

Status LED

Things to remember when positioning the Status LED:

• It should be visible from both sides and the rear of the vehicle, if posible.

• It needs at least 1/2" clearance to the rear.

• It is easiest to use a small removable panel, such as a switch blank or

a dash bezel. Remove it before drilling your 9/32" hole.

• Use quick-disconnects near the LED wires if the panel is removable.

This lets mechanics or other installers remove the panel without cutting the wires.

Optional Starter Kill Relay

If Starter Kill Relay or its connections are immediately visible upon removal of the underdash panel, they can easily be bypassed. Always make the relay and its connections difficult to discern from the factory wiring! Exposed yellow butt connectors do not look like factory parts, and will not fool anyone! For this reason, routing the starter kill wires away from the steering column is recommended.

Step 2:

Finding the Wires You Need

Now that you have decided where each component will be located, you’re going to find the wires in the car that the security system will be connected to.

IMPORTANT! Do not use a 12V test light to find these wires! All testing described in this manual is described using a digital multimeter

Obtaining Constant 12V

We recommend two possible sources for 12V constant: The (+) terminal of the battery, or the constant supply to the ignition switch. Always install a fuse within 12 inches of this connection. If the fuse also will be powering other circuits, such as door locks, a power window module, a Nite-Lite® headlight control system, etc.; fuse accordingly.

IMPORTANT! Do not remove the fuse holder on the red wire. It ensures that the control module has its own fuse, of the proper value, regardless of how many accessories are added to the main power feed.

Finding the 12V Switched Ignition Wire

The ignition wire is powered when the key is in the run or start position. This is because the ignition wire powers the ignition system (spark plugs, coil) as well as the fuel delivery system (fuel pump, fuel injection computer). Accessory wires, on the other hand, lose power when the key is in the start position to make more current available to the starter motor.

How to find (+)12V ignition with your multimeter:

1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).

2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.

3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the ignition wire. The steering column harness or ignition switch harness is an excellent place to find this wire.

4. Turn the ignition key switch to the run position. If your meter reads (+)12V, go to the next step. If it doesn’t, probe another wire.

5. Now turn the key to the start position. The meter display should stay steady, not dropping by more than a few tenths of a volt. If it drops close to or all the way to zero, go back to step 3. If it stays steady at (+)12V, you have found an ignition wire.

Finding a (+) Parking Iight Wire

The (+) parking light wire is often found near the switch. Many cars have the switch built into the turn signal lever, and in these cars the parking light wire can be found in the steering column. The same wire is often available in the kick panel or running board.

NOTE: Many Toyotas, as well as many other Asian vehicles, send a (-) signal from the switch to a relay. The relay then sends 12V(+) to the bulbs. Whenever you have difficulty finding a (+) parking light wire near the switch, simply test the wires at any switch or control panel

which is lit by the instrument panel lighting.

Remember, you need a (+) parking light wire that does not vary with dimmer setting.

How to find a (+) parking light flash wire with your multimeter

1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).

2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.

3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the parking light wire. Usually, the area near the headlight/parking light switch is an excellent area to start, as is the kick panel.

4. Turn on the parking lights. If your meter shows (+)12V, turn off the parking lights and make sure it goes back to zero.

5. If it does return to zero, turn the parking lights back on and, using the dash light dimmer control, turn the brightness of the dash lights up and down.

look for another wire.

If it stays relatively close to (+)12V, you have found your parking light wire.

If the meter changes more than a volt when using the dimmer,

Finding the Door Pin Switch Circuit

The best places to find the door switch wire are:

At the pin switch: When testing at the pin switch, check the wire to ensure that it “sees” all the doors. Often, the passenger switch will cover all the doors even if the driver’s switch will not.

At the dome light: This may not be your best choice if the vehicle has delayed domelight supervision, but it will work in many Hondas, or any vehicle with completely diode-isolated pin switches.

Once you have determined the wire color, the easiest place to connect to the wire is often at the kick panel, at the windshield pillar, or in the running board. When an easy location is not available, running a wire to the domelight itself is often the best solution.

How to find a door pin switch trigger wire with your multimeter:

1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).

2. In most Fords, fasten the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground. In most other cars, fasten the (+) probe of your meter to (+)12V constant.

3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the door trigger wire. If the meter reads (+)12V when any door is opened, you have found a trigger wire.

NOTE: Make sure the wire you use “sees” all the doors! Some newer GM vehicles lack standard-type pin switches. The dome light in these vehicles is turned on when the door handle is lifted. These usually have a blue/white or white coming out of the door into the kick panel which will provide a (-) trigger for all doors. Some GM vehicles (some Cavaliers, Grand Ams, etc.) have a yellow wire coming out of the door which provides a (+) door trigger.

How to find the (+)12V starter wire with your multimeter:

1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).

2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.

3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the starter wire. The steering column is an excellent place to find this wire. Remember you do not need to interrupt the starter at the same point you test it. Hiding your starter kill relay and connections is always recommended.

4. Turn the ignition key switch to the start position. Make sure the car is not in gear! If your meter reads (+)12V, go to the next step. If it doesn’t, probe another wire.

5. Cut the wire you suspect of being the starter wire.

6. Attempt to start the car. If the starter engages, reconnect it and go back to step 3. If the starter does not turn over, you have the right wire.

Step 3:

Making Your Wire Connections

Before making your connections, plan how your wires will be routed through the vehicle. For instance, the yellow ignition input, the red 12V constant input, and the orange ground-when-armed output (for the optional starter kill relay) will often be routed together to the ignition switch harness. In order to keep the wiring neat and make it harder to find, you may wish to wrap these wires together in electrical tape or conceal them in tubing similar to what the manufacturer used.

There are two acceptable ways of making a wire connection: Solder connections and crimp connectors. When properly performed, either type of connection is reliable and trouble-free. Regardless of whether you solder your connections or you use mechanical-type crimp-on connections, ensure that all connections are mechanically sound and that they are insulated.

Cheap electrical tape, especially when poorly applied, is not a reliable insulator. It often falls off in hot weather. Use good-quality electrical tape or heat shrink.

Never

twist-and-tape the wires together without soldering.

Never

use “fuse taps,” as they can damage fuse box terminals.

If you use tapping connectors such as 3M T-Taps (not to be confused with Scotch-Locks), avoid using them in highercurrent applications (constant 12V, ground, etc.). Some tapping connectors are inferior in quality and should be avoided.

+ 15 hidden pages

Viper 300+ Installation Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual