Vifa 302-910, 302-914, 302-912 Assembly Instructions Manual

Loudspeaker Kit
Assembly Instructions
Vifa PL Bookself Speaker Kit
302-910, 302-912, 302-914
Manual # 999-241 © January 2004 Parts Express ®
Introduction
A simple crossover design with a minimum of components inline with the drivers ensures that the great natural performance of the woofer and tweeter shine through.
Parts Inventory
Before beginning the assembly process, please inspect and confirm that you have all necessary components. If you appear to be missing any components, please contact Parts Express customer service immediately.
Part# Qty Description
302-710(712,714) 2 .38 cu. ft. two way cabinet 999-231 2 Custom baffles 999-221 2 Crossover boards w/wires 999-241 1 Instruction Manual 091-1245 2 Gold binding post pair 260-388 2 1-3/8" Adjustable port tube 260-516 2 1-1/2" x 24" x 18" Acoustic foam 081-435 20 #6 x 3/4" Phillips pan head screws 264-527 2 Vifa PL27TG35-06 Tweeter 297-322 2 Vifa PL14WJ09-08 Midbass 255-242 2 Jantzen .80 mH 18 ga inductor (L1) 255-266 2 Jantzen 2.00 mH 18 ga inductor (L2) 027-420 2 Dayton 3.3 uF capacitor (C1) 027-423 2 Dayton 5.1 uF capacitor (C2) 027-427 2 Dayton 6.2 uF capacitor (C3) 004-6 2 Dayton 6 ohm Non-Inductive resistor (R1) 004-16 2 Dayton 16 ohm Non-Inductive resistor (R2) 080-817 10 Cable ties 341-882 1 Silicone adhesive 269-300 1 Speaker sealing caulk
Loudspeaker Kit Assembly Instructions
By following these instructions and assembling the speakers in a conscientious manner, you will ensure that you will be able to enjoy the speakers for many years to come. If there are any questions during the assembly process, please feel free and contact our Technical Support staff at 1-800-338-0531.
Gather the Necessary Tools
The assembly of your speaker kit requires several basic tools and supplies, though more advanced tools can be used if desired. The following list represents the most basic list of tools that are required:
Hammer #2 Phillips head screwdriver or power driver Small wrench or pliers Soldering gun & solder Silicone adhesive or hot-melt glue gun Electronics cutters Scissors or utility knife (for cutting foam)
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Workspace Considerations
As with doing any type of kit assembly, it is best to have a large, clean work area with adequate lighting. Taking a few minutes to establish a good work area will save time by eliminating lost parts and preventing assembly errors. A heat-resistant work surface is recommended for the crossover assembly portion. When working with the cabinets, it is important to cover the work surface with a cloth or foam layer to protect the speaker finish. The foam wrap that is around the speaker cabinets will work well for this, making sure it is free from dust or other debris.
Getting Organized
To prepare for the kit assembly, you need to do some basic unpacking and organizing first. Open the large speaker cabinet box(es) and remove the speakers from the packaging. You will need to unwrap the cabinets themselves, saving the wrap to protect your work surface. Remove the baffles from the cabinet, and place the baffle screws someplace safe. Proceed to unpack binding posts and other packaged items.
Assembly
1. Install Port Tubes
The port tubes that are included with your kit need to be installed into the cabinet. In this particular kit, the required port dimensions are 1-3/8" in diameter by 4-1/2" in length. This allows us to use only the main section of the 1-3/8" adjustable port tube, which is the portion with the mounting flange on it. The secondary adjustable portion of the tube may be discarded. The main section can be mounted into the cabinet per the instructions below.
Screw-mount port tubes- The port can simply be set into place and carefully secured with the included #6-3/4" screws. Be careful not to over-torque the screws, which may result in cracking of the plastic.
2. Install Binding Posts
The posts will need to be “knocked” into place with a hammer and secured from the inside of the cabinet. Start by placing the cabinets face-down onto the work surface, being sure that the cabinet is firmly supported.
Remove the binding posts from their package, and unscrew all washers and nuts from the shaft. Next, remove the main nut that is used to hold the speaker wire onto the terminals- this will prevent them from getting dam­aged while the posts are being inserted.
Insert one of the post shafts into the hole and align it making sure the wire through-hole is running vertically. Gently tap into place until the shoulder is snug with the rear of the cabinet. Excessive hammering is not necessary and may cause damage to the finish of the cabinet around posts. Proceed through the same process with the second post.
Once the posts have been knocked into place, you will need to secure them from the inside of the cabinet. A lock washer followed by a nut need to be installed to secure the posts to the cabinet. Next, install the second lock nut, the solder tab, the second nut, and then tighten into place.
Now that the posts are fully secured, we just need to reinstall the colored knobs on the outside of the cabinet. When looking from the rear of the cabinet (terminals should be closer to the “bottom” of the cabinet), the “red” terminal will go on the right side.
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3. Install damping material
The damping material included is intended to line the walls of the cabinet to reduce midrange reflections and help prevent standing waves. The included foam will need to be cut to size and then secured onto the walls of the cabinet. Note: On most kits there will be excess material available, it is not necessary to use all of it. Do not place foam directly on top of or underneath the crossover boards.
For this system, we would like to line one of each set of opposing walls, rather than lining the whole cabinet. Using too much foam (particularly in this small cabinet) can cause an overdamped bass reflex system. This will result in loose or muddled bass response.
Alternating the foam location between walls is recommended. For example, use one piece of foam on the right side wall on the front half of the cabinet. Use a second piece on the left wall behind the brace. For the top and bottom, use one piece of foam on the bottom front half, and one piece on the top rear half above the port. This will reduce direct reflections between parallel walls on all surfaces without overdamping the system. This configu­ration also works well by leaving us plenty of room for installing the crossover boards.
The damping material can be secured to the walls with a spray adhesive or with hot-melt glue. When using spray adhesive, please follow the manufacturer’s instructions. It is best to apply the spray to the foam itself, being sure to spray away from the cabinet to prevent getting adhesive on the cabinet exterior. When using hot-melt glue, simply place a few drops of glue at various locations on the rear of the foam and press into place.
Example of finished foam installation
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