Loudspeaker Kit
Assembly Instructions
Vifa PL Bookself Speaker Kit
302-910, 302-912, 302-914
Manual # 999-241 © January 2004 Parts Express ®
Introduction
The Vifa Premium Line Bookshelf Kit was designed to offer a very rich and warm sound with clear highs. It
excels at producing jazz and classical music, but works well for any type of music where an “easygoing” presentation is desired. The woofer uses a patented paper cone system with rubber surround and cast frame to produce
excellent bass and midrange clarity. The tweeter offers clear and defined high frequencies that are not overly
harsh.
A simple crossover design with a minimum of components inline with the drivers ensures that the great natural
performance of the woofer and tweeter shine through.
Parts Inventory
Before beginning the assembly process, please inspect and confirm that you have all necessary components.
If you appear to be missing any components, please contact Parts Express customer service immediately.
Part# Qty Description
302-710(712,714) 2 .38 cu. ft. two way cabinet
999-231 2 Custom baffles
999-221 2 Crossover boards w/wires
999-241 1 Instruction Manual
091-1245 2 Gold binding post pair
260-388 2 1-3/8" Adjustable port tube
260-516 2 1-1/2" x 24" x 18" Acoustic foam
081-435 20 #6 x 3/4" Phillips pan head screws
264-527 2 Vifa PL27TG35-06 Tweeter
297-322 2 Vifa PL14WJ09-08 Midbass
255-242 2 Jantzen .80 mH 18 ga inductor (L1)
255-266 2 Jantzen 2.00 mH 18 ga inductor (L2)
027-420 2 Dayton 3.3 uF capacitor (C1)
027-423 2 Dayton 5.1 uF capacitor (C2)
027-427 2 Dayton 6.2 uF capacitor (C3)
004-6 2 Dayton 6 ohm Non-Inductive resistor (R1)
004-16 2 Dayton 16 ohm Non-Inductive resistor (R2)
080-817 10 Cable ties
341-882 1 Silicone adhesive
269-300 1 Speaker sealing caulk
Loudspeaker Kit Assembly Instructions
By following these instructions and assembling the speakers in a conscientious manner, you will ensure that you
will be able to enjoy the speakers for many years to come. If there are any questions during the assembly
process, please feel free and contact our Technical Support staff at 1-800-338-0531.
Gather the Necessary Tools
The assembly of your speaker kit requires several basic tools and supplies, though more advanced tools can be
used if desired. The following list represents the most basic list of tools that are required:
Hammer #2 Phillips head screwdriver or power driver
Small wrench or pliers Soldering gun & solder
Silicone adhesive or hot-melt glue gun Electronics cutters
Scissors or utility knife (for cutting foam)
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Workspace Considerations
As with doing any type of kit assembly, it is best to have a large, clean work area with adequate lighting. Taking a
few minutes to establish a good work area will save time by eliminating lost parts and preventing assembly
errors. A heat-resistant work surface is recommended for the crossover assembly portion. When working with the
cabinets, it is important to cover the work surface with a cloth or foam layer to protect the speaker finish. The
foam wrap that is around the speaker cabinets will work well for this, making sure it is free from dust or other
debris.
Getting Organized
To prepare for the kit assembly, you need to do some basic unpacking and organizing first. Open the large
speaker cabinet box(es) and remove the speakers from the packaging. You will need to unwrap the cabinets
themselves, saving the wrap to protect your work surface. Remove the baffles from the cabinet, and place the
baffle screws someplace safe. Proceed to unpack binding posts and other packaged items.
Assembly
1. Install Port Tubes
The port tubes that are included with your kit need to be installed into the cabinet. In this particular kit, the
required port dimensions are 1-3/8" in diameter by 4-1/2" in length. This allows us to use only the main section of
the 1-3/8" adjustable port tube, which is the portion with the mounting flange on it. The secondary adjustable
portion of the tube may be discarded. The main section can be mounted into the cabinet per the instructions
below.
Screw-mount port tubes- The port can simply be set into place and carefully secured with the included #6-3/4"
screws. Be careful not to over-torque the screws, which may result in cracking of the plastic.
2. Install Binding Posts
The posts will need to be “knocked” into place with a hammer and secured from the inside of the cabinet. Start
by placing the cabinets face-down onto the work surface, being sure that the cabinet is firmly supported.
Remove the binding posts from their package, and unscrew all washers and nuts from the shaft. Next, remove
the main nut that is used to hold the speaker wire onto the terminals- this will prevent them from getting damaged while the posts are being inserted.
Insert one of the post shafts into the hole and align it
making sure the wire through-hole is running vertically.
Gently tap into place until the shoulder is snug with the
rear of the cabinet. Excessive hammering is not
necessary and may cause damage to the finish of the
cabinet around posts. Proceed through the same
process with the second post.
Once the posts have been knocked into place, you will
need to secure them from the inside of the cabinet. A
lock washer followed by a nut need to be installed to
secure the posts to the cabinet. Next, install the
second lock nut, the solder tab, the second nut, and
then tighten into place.
Now that the posts are fully secured, we just need to
reinstall the colored knobs on the outside of the
cabinet. When looking from the rear of the cabinet
(terminals should be closer to the “bottom” of the
cabinet), the “red” terminal will go on the right side.
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3. Install damping material
The damping material included is intended to line the walls of the cabinet to reduce midrange reflections and help
prevent standing waves. The included foam will need to be cut to size and then secured onto the walls of the
cabinet. Note: On most kits there will be excess material available, it is not necessary to use all of it. Do not
place foam directly on top of or underneath the crossover boards.
For this system, we would like to line one of each set of opposing walls, rather than lining the whole cabinet.
Using too much foam (particularly in this small cabinet) can cause an overdamped bass reflex system. This will
result in loose or muddled bass response.
Alternating the foam location between walls is recommended. For example, use one piece of foam on the right
side wall on the front half of the cabinet. Use a second piece on the left wall behind the brace. For the top and
bottom, use one piece of foam on the bottom front half, and one piece on the top rear half above the port. This
will reduce direct reflections between parallel walls on all surfaces without overdamping the system. This configuration also works well by leaving us plenty of room for installing the crossover boards.
The damping material can be secured to the walls with a spray adhesive or with hot-melt glue. When using spray
adhesive, please follow the manufacturer’s instructions. It is best to apply the spray to the foam itself, being sure
to spray away from the cabinet to prevent getting adhesive on the cabinet exterior. When using hot-melt glue,
simply place a few drops of glue at various locations on the rear of the foam and press into place.
Example of finished foam installation
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