Victory RD1 User Manual

User Guide

VICTORY RD1

All Valve 28 Watt Guitar Head

Thank you, and congratulations on acquiring a Victory Amplification RD1. This amp is proudly designed
and built by our committed team of engineers and craftsmen in the UK.
We value simplicity in operation, flexibility in use and absolutely no compromise in tone. Our aim is

simple: to create amplifiers that inspire you ever onwards in your playing and never let you down.

SAFETY FIRST
We want you to enjoy your amplifier to the best of its potential. So please…

Before you go any further, take a moment to read these SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

• Read these guidelines & keep them

• Follow all instructions & guidelines

• Do not use this amplifier near water or any other liquid

• Do not block any openings

• Do not attempt to clean the amplifier with any fluids: use only a dry cloth

•

Do not attempt to modify or service this product yourself

•

Removing covers could mean you are exposed to dangerous voltages that may result in severe injury or
death

• Refer all servicing to qualified service personnel

• Damage Requiring Service: Unplug this product from the wall outlet and refer servicing to qualified

service personnel under the following conditions:
(a) When the power-supply cord or plug is damaged;
(b) If liquid has been spilled, or objects have fallen into the product;
(c) If the product has been exposed to rain or water;
(d) If the product does not operate normally by following the operating instructions. Adjust only those
controls that are covered by the operating instructions. Improper adjustment of other controls may
result in damage and will often require extensive work by a qualified technician to restore the product
to its normal operation;
(e) If the product has been dropped or damaged in any way;
(f) When the product exhibits a distinct change in performance - this indicates a need for service.

•

Replacement Parts: When replacement parts are required, be sure the service technician uses
replacement parts specified by the manufacturer or have the same characteristics as the original part.
Unauthorized substitutions may result in fire, electric shock, or other hazards.

So, what do you get?
Your new Victory RD1 comes with the following:
A mains lead for your country
A heavy duty Gig Bag/Travel Bag
This User Guide
Unlimited technical support via [e-mail]

FRONT PANEL

Input
Plug your guitar in here!

Gain
This adjusts the input sensitivity. Use low settings for maximum clean headroom and higher settings
when you want to introduce more natural valve overdrive to your tone.
Balancing your input Gain level with your Master volume level is crucial in delivering the tone and feel
that works best for you. In addition, careful use of the volume control on the guitar will also provide
tonal variations to the sound.

Bright switch
For switching between two pre-set levels of treble response.

Contour
Controls the bass and midrange frequency response simultaneously: turning clockwise increases bass
and decreases midrange response and anti-clockwise, it does the opposite.

Deep switch
Increases low frequency response of the power amp section and can be used in conjunction with the
Contour control for a sound with extended midrange and low frequency response simultaneously.

Master
The Master Volume control is used to set the stage or overall volume of the RD1. If this is turned to
maximum, then the RD1 becomes a non-master volume amplifier where the Input Gain control in
conjunction with the Volume control on the guitar allows for a wide range of Volumes & Gains to be
achieved. This can be very powerful for tone shaping.

Power switch

HIGH – STANDBY – LOW Switch
The RD1 should always be switched on, (Power switch on front of amplifier), with this front panel toggle
switch in its centre position. The amplifier is now in ‘STANDBY’ mode with just the valve heaters and low
voltages on. This allows the valves to heat up before they get 100s of volts up them, (it’s less of a shock).
After around 60 seconds, the amp can be switch to either HIGH, (around 28 Watts rms) or LOW, (around
2 Watts rms). When switching the amplifier ON or OFF please ensure the Volumes are turned down and
you leave at least 30 seconds before switching from Standby to Off. This will ensure extended valve life
and avoid any power-down noise. This is especially relevant if you’re miked up and running through a
large PA system as any small pop may become amplified to audience death levels, which may limit your
music career.

REAR PANEL

Mains inlet (IEC Socket)
Please only use the correct mains cord for your territory! Ensure the front panel Power toggle switch is in
the up, (OFF) position before inserting the mains lead.

Voltage selector
This selects the correct mains voltage for your territory. Please refer to a qualified technician before
even thinking about moving this switch. If you do find yourself in foreign climes where the mains voltage
is different to home, (and the water tastes funny), it will be necessary to switch this selector. The mains
fuse must always be changed at the same time. Failure to do this will result in either the mains fuse
blowing as soon as the amp is turned on or the amp running with a fuse that is of too higher value to
provide adequate safety protection. Generally, the fuse value will double if the mains voltage is halved,
(i.e. if it’s a 0.5A fuse in the UK @ 230V, it will needs to be a 1A fuse for the USA @ 115V).
Always use the correct rating and type of fuse. Victory amplifiers exclusively use UL-approved 20x5mm
glass ‘T’ or ‘Timed’ fuses. If you have difficulty acquiring the correct fuses, please contact Victory using

[e-mail].

HT fuse
The HT or ‘High Tension’ fuse protects the high voltage for the valve supply. If this fuse blows, the first
step is to replace it with an identical T250mA 20x5mm fuse. The HT fuse may sometimes blow due to

‘flash-over’ inside an output valve. This is where during the manufacturing process, not all of the gas is
removed from the glass envelope and the ‘getter’ inside the valve, usually made from barium or

magnesium oxide, will burn or evaporate these remaining gasses resulting in the common silvered
internal surface of the valve. This process, which is more likely to happen with new equipment, draws
high current momentarily and can blow the HT fuse. It will rarely cause any damage so just replacing the
fuse is sufficient to get the amp running normally again.
However, if the HT fuse blows again, it may indicate a serious valve failure where internal parts of a
valve are shorted and in this case the amplifier needs to be checked by a qualified engineer to assess the
problem.

Speaker outputs
PLEASE NOTE: The lightning flash with arrowhead symbol, within an equilateral triangle, is intended to

alert the user to the presence of uninsulated ‘dangerous voltage’ within the product’s enclosure that
may be of sufficient magnitude to constitute a risk of electric shock. Terminals labelled as “Speaker
Outputs” must be connected to a speaker cabinet of the designated load rating using an un-shielded two

conductor cable for speaker use at all times during operation. Never use a guitar cable to connect the
amplifier to a speaker as this presents the amplifier with a ‘capacitive load’. This can cause instability or
oscillation which may seriously damage valves and/or the expensive output transformer.

The output transformer in the RD1 has 2 separate secondary windings; a 16 Ohm and an 8 Ohm. This
makes it easy to connect different combinations of speakers. There are three speaker output jacks: 2 x 8
Ohms, (wired in parallel) and 1 x 16 ohms.
So here are the possible combinations:

1. For a single 8 Ohm cabinet, use either of the 8 Ohm sockets.

2. For a single 16 Ohm cabinet, use the 16 Ohm socket.

3. For a pair of 16 Ohm cabinets, use both of the 8 Ohm sockets.

It is possible to use a pair of 8 Ohm cabinets with the RD1 but a special series lead needs to be used.

Over the page is a diagram of how this is achieved:

Effects Loop
The RD1 has an effects loop, which is a simple, low impedance, series loop.

The SEND socket is for connection to the input of effects units. On the RD1 it is a lower impedance
version of the signal that appears at the INPUT. Use the send to connect to floor pedals or rack effects
such as Delay, Chorus and Reverb etc. Effects such as Overdrive, Fuzz, Wah Wah and Tuners often give
better results plugged into the Instrument Input on the front panel. The Send socket can also be used on
its own to send a signal to another amplifier.

The FX Loop also incorporates a Mix control which allows you to vary the amount of effects signal that is
returned to the amplifier from any external pedals or effects processors plugged into the FX Loop. This
can be varied between ‘Dry’ (no effects in the signal) and ‘Wet’ (fully effected signal).

The RETURN socket is for connection to the output of effects units. When not used it is internally
connected to the SEND, therefore the EFFECTS LOOP can be ignored if not in use. It can also be used as a
small signal ‘Slave’ input from another amplifier but DO NOT plug an amplifier’s speaker output into the
Return socket or very bad things will happen.

The RETURN socket is also very useful for fault diagnosis. If your RD1 doesn’t produce any sound, (or
makes some weird noises) when played, plug the guitar directly into the RETURN socket and play. This
bypasses the entire pre-amplifier section and sends the guitar signal through just the output stage. If
sound is now heard then the problem is in the pre-amp section and is likely to be a faulty pre-amp valve.

Biasing:

Whenever any output valves are changed, the amplifier will need to be re-biased. This must be done by
a qualified or competent person as there are lethal voltages inside the RD1 and getting killed by a guitar
amplifier is a rubbish way to die. Also take care as valves may still be very hot from use. Use a cloth to
remove valves if possible. Take care when removing any valve as the pins can easily be bent. We
recommend a slow circular motion known a ‘dweezling’ while lifting the valves from their bases as this
will free them with the least amount of effort and stress. Ensure that as you remove them that they are
never more than a few degrees from vertical to avoid bending or breaking pins etc. Please always try to
buy matched pairs of output valves as they will be easier to Bias and give longer service.
Unplug the RD1 from the mains and remove the bottom chassis plate using a No.2 Posidrive screwdriver.
Note that the rubber feet fixings are also used to secure the base plate to the chassis. Remove 4 x M4
screws from the side of the top grill using a No. 2 Posidrive and remove it. Carefully place the RD1 on a
clear and secure surface upside down so all its soft bits are exposed. Ensure that nothing is plugged onto
the input socket and all controls are turned to zero to avoid any signal or circuit noise at all interfering
with the Bias setup.
Plug the amp back into the mains; ensure a speaker or dummy load is connected to the correct speaker
output and switch the amp on from the front panel switch. After 30 seconds, switch the front panel
switch from Standby to High. Do not be tempted to poke fingers anywhere inside the amp; lethal
voltages are present.
The 22K BIAS pre-set resistor is found in the power supply section on the PCB, (yellow circle on photo).
The Bias voltage measurement is performed between the chassis, (use the unpainted corner bush as

seen in the top right of the above photo) and the test point TP10 & TP11, (yellow squares on photo).
Using a multimeter set on the 200mV range, measure these test points and adjust the BIAS preset so the
meter reads approx. 21mV. This translates into 21mA of current per output valve. Check both Test Points
a few times and try to balance the Bias voltage so it is as close as possible between the 2 valves. We
don’t recommend a difference of greater than 4mV between the 2 valves.

Amplifier Dimensions:
SIZE (mm): 263(w) x 170(h) x 195(d) Unboxed. 405(w) x 315(h) x 305(d) Boxed.
Weight: 6Kgs Unboxed. 7.85Kgs Boxed
Output Power
The following measurements were taken at 240V mains input into an 8 Ohm load using a 1 KHz Sine
Wave with the output waveforms set just before clipping:

High Power: 28 Watts
Low Power: 2 Watts

Please be aware that even in low power mode at 2 watts the output power can still be very loud into a
sensitive speaker so be aware of who you may be affecting. Victory takes no responsibility for any
physical abuse that may result from your playing.

Valve Complement, (looking at the RD1 from the front left to right).
Pre-Amp:
V1 ECC83/12AX7 Input Gain stages.
V2 ECC83/12AX7 Provides 2 further Gain stages and drives the Contour Tone control.
V3 ECC83/12AX7 Is the phase splitter to drive the output stage
V4 & V5 EL84s Are the valves which make up the output stage in a Class A/B fixed Bias push-pull
configuration.

Warranty
All Victory products come with a 5 year limited warranty. This covers any defects in manufacturing or
faulty components. Valves and speakers are warrantied for 90 days from the purchase date but
replacement parts will be at our discretion. Please contact your local dealer if you have any issues with
your Victory product.

A note from Team Victory
We’ve built your Victory Amplifier as a professional, no-compromise musical instrument, with a great
deal of pride and an absolute commitment to tone. We encourage you to learn to get to know it by
experimenting with all the controls, in order to discover its vast array of tonal combinations.
Thank you for making your tones with us: we wish you many years of achieving inspiring sounds to push
your playing ever onwards.

Now I’ll shut up; you go play yer guitar.

Contact info: [e-mail]
Web: www.victoryamps.co.uk
www.youtube.com/user/VictoryAmps
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