Inlet Filter125Pipe Plug126Outlet Connection127Relief Valve128Gauge, Low Pressure129Gauge, High Pressure130Decal, Bonnet Gas I.D.131Decal, Rear Body Gas Info.1
24A
Items most commonly required for regulator repair and recommended for stock.
Cap (Vented)0614-00160614-00160614-0016------------
Spring Button
Adjusting Screw1401-00071401-00081401-0008
Cap Nut1403-00241403-00241403-0024
27A
27B
27C
27D
27E
27F
27G
27H
27I
27J
27K
- 3 -
SERVICE & REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ESS2 and ESS4 Single Stage Edge™ Series Regulators
WARNING!
Apparatus improperly operated, maintained or repaired can be dangerous!
Service and repair of
technician. Improper service or repair, or modification of the product, could result in
damage to the product or injury to the operator.
Protect your investment! Some parts and accessories manufactured by others may fit
VICTOR apparatus, but not conform to VICTOR’s exacting standards for quality, fit and
function. For your own protection and the protection of your investment, specify and
use only
level of performance, safety and reliability that you expect from
VICTOR genuine parts and accessories. It’s the only way to guarantee the
GLOSSARY – COMMONLY USED TERMS
OUTLET PRESSURE: The pressure measured at the Regulator’s outlet port.
VICTOR apparatus should only be performed by a qualified
VICTOR.
INLET PRESSURE: The pressure measured immediately at the Regulator’s entry.
DROP: A change in outlet pressure from a no-flow to flowing condition while the inlet
pressure remains constant.
RISE: An increase in outlet pressure as the inlet pressure decreases.
CREEP: A gradual increase in outlet pressure.
RECOMMENDED TOOLS & SUPPLIES FOR REPAIR PROCEDURES
• Inlet Swivel Assembly Plug
1
•
/2”, 5/8”, 9/16”, 11/16” and 3/4” Sockets
• Socket Wrench
• Torque Wrench
7
/16”, 3/4” and 13/16” Open End Wrenches
•
1
/8”, 9/64”, 3/16” and 1/4” Hex Keys
•
• Bench Vise
• Repair Tool RT-180 (8” Leverage Bar with 1/4-18 NPT [M] End)
• Oxygen-compatible Teflon® Tape
• Loctite® #222 Threadlocker
• CHRISTO-LUBE® #129 Lubricant.
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURES
Refer to the exploded view for reference numbers [Shown in brackets]
1. Mount the Inlet Swivel Assembly Plug in the Bench Vise and firmly attach the Regulator.
2. Remove the Knob Decal [6], and remove the #10-32 Screw [7] and Washer [8] located
inside the Knob [9]. The Knob can now be removed.
- 4 -
3. Remove the 5 (for ESS2) or 6 (for ESS4) Socket Head Cap Screws [10]. The Bonnet [2]
can now be removed.
TIP: Be careful when removing the Bonnet, as the Diaphragm Assembly can
sometimes stick to it when disassembling.
4. Remove the Drive Screw [12], Guid e Bushing [13], and Thrust Washer [11]. The Guide
Bushing can be separated from the Drive Screw by removing the #10-32 Screw [7] and
Washer [14] installed in the bottom of the Drive Screw.
TIP: Make sure you’ve got the Thrust Washer. If it’s not sitting on top of the Drive
Screw, it may still be up inside the Bonnet.
5. Remove the Adjusting Spring [15], Diaphragm Assembly [4], and Back-Up Ring [4A] (if
so equipped), and then remove the Nozzle [16] from the Body.
6. Remove the Seat Assembly [18], Valve Spring [19], Gland [20], Friction Damper [21]
and Bottom Guide [22] from the Body.
7. Remove the Relief Valve or Pipe Plug [27], Outlet Connection [26] and Pipe Plug [25] (if
necessary) from the Body.
8. Screw the Leverage Bar Tool RT-180 into the outlet port of the Body (lightly hand tight),
and use the bar to unscrew the Body off the Inlet Swivel [24].
TIP: Watch the Inlet Swivel while trying to turn the Body. If the Swivel is turning with
the Body, then you need to tighten the Inlet Nut tighter on the Inlet Swivel Assembly
Plug.
9. Holding the Body by hand, or lightly in the Bench Vise (with the top surface of the body
protected from damage), remove the Gauge Guard [3] (held on by two screws [5]) and
then remove the Gauges [28, 29].
TIP:Step 9 can be done before Step 8 if desired, but it’s usually easier to remove the
Gauge Guard and Gauges with the Inlet Swivel Assembly Plug out of the way.
NOTE ON ESS4 MODELS: The lower Gauge Guard Screw cannot be accessed until
the Relief Valve has been removed (if so equipped). Subsequently, the Gauge Guard
(and Gauges) must be installed into the Body prior to installing the Relief Valve.
10. If necessary, disassemble the Relief Valve as shown in DETAIL A.
CAUTION! Discard the used Nozzle O-Ring, Inlet Filter, Diaphragm Assembly,
Seat Assembly and Friction Damper. Replace them with new parts each time you
assemble a Regulator.
All of these recommended components are available together in convenient repair kits for
your ESS2 or ESS4 model Regulator:
Repair Kit Part No. Description
RK-ESS2-HP 0790-0162 ESS2 Repair Kit for Oxygen, Inert Gases, Air, CO
RK-ESS2-F 0790-0165 ESS2 Repair Kit for Acetylene, LP Gas.
RK-ESS4-F 0790-0166 ESS4 Repair Kit for Acetylene, LP Gas.
- 5 -
,
2
CLEANING PARTS
It is recommended to clean all metal parts for oxygen service, regardless of Regulator Model
being repaired. There are several ways to clean components for oxygen service; the
following standards are recommended reading for more detailed information on methods and
processes:
• CGA G-4.1 “Cleaning Equipment for Oxygen Service”
• ASTM G-93 “Standard Practice for Cleaning Methods and Cleanliness Levels for
Material and Equipment Used in Oxygen-Enriched Environments”
• ASTM G-127 “Standard Guide for the Selection of Cleaning Agents for Oxygen
Systems”
DO NOT allow non-metal parts to come in contact with cleaning solvents. Cleaning solvents
can cause non-metal parts to swell and/or crack. To clean these parts, use a mild soap
solution, followed by a thorough rinsing in water. Dry parts completely prior to reassembling.
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURES
Refer to the exploded view for reference numbers [Shown in brackets]
IMPORTANT NOTES ABOUT SEALING PIPE THREADS:
• When using Teflon® tape where noted: Apply two to three layers around the
threads, leaving the first thread clean. Insure your Teflon® tape is oxygencompatible.
• When using Loctite® #222 Threadlocker where noted: Apply two to three drops
to the second and third thread, leaving the first thread clean.
1. Wrap the Low and High Pressure Gauges [28, 29] with Teflon® tape.
2. Holding the Body [1] by hand, or lightly in the Bench Vise (with the top surface of the
Body protected from damage), install the Gauges into the Body and torque each to 10 ftlbs minimum. Then install the Gauge Guard [3] using the two mounting Screws [5],
tightening them until snug (the Gauge Guard firmly held in position).
TIP: If you cannot get a torque wrench on the Gauges, some simple rules will help
insure adequate tightness: When the Gauges are tight, nearly all of the
1
/8-27 NPT
Gauge threads will disappear into the Body. You should only see one to two turns of
complete thread remaining. Additionally, when the Gauge Guard is in position, the
face of each Gauge should be at least
Guard. If the Gauges are closer to the Gauge Guard than that, tighten the Gauges
tighter as needed (one full revolution of the
Gauge closer to the Body by approximately
1
/32” away from the underside of the Gauge
1
/8-27 NPT Gauge thread will move the
1
/32”). Be sure to note the orientation of
the Gauge face – always go tighter to line up Gauge dial artwork.
3. Install the new Filter [24A] into the Inlet Swivel [24], and apply either Teflon® tape or
Loctite® #222 to the Inlet Swivel threads.
4. If not already in place, mount the Inlet Swivel Assembly Plug back in the Bench Vise.
Firmly attach the Inlet Swivel and Inlet Nut [23] onto the Inlet Swivel Assembly Plug.
5. Screw the Body onto the Inlet Swivel, screw the Leverage Bar Tool RT-180 into the outlet
port of the Body (light hand tight), and then use the Leverage Bar to tighten the Body
onto the Inlet Connection. At this point, tighten enough so that the body cannot be turned
by hand without the assistance of the Leverage Bar. Final torque for the Inlet Connection
will occur in upcoming STEP 10.
- 6 -
6. Apply either Teflon® tape or Loctite® #222 to the Pipe Plug [25] threads. Install the Pipe
Plug into the rear Body high pressure port, and torque to 15 ft-lbs.
7. Preassemble the Relief Valve (if so equipped): Assemble (or reassemble) the Relief
Valve [27] as shown in DETAIL A. Use no lubricants or sealants. If your Regulator
model has a Pipe Plug instead of a Relief Valve, or if your Relief Valve is already
assembled and tested, you can skip to STEP 10.
8. To ensure proper Relief Valve performance, perform the following test procedures before assembling the Relief Valve in the Regulator.
a. Attach the Relief Valve to a 450 PSIG source of oil-free air or dry nitrogen.
b. Slowly pressurize the Relief Valve, increasing to the recommended blow-off pressure
listed below. Note that
pressure, in case you’re unsure which Relief Valve you have.
Non-Vented Relief Valves:
If the Relief Valve vents before the minimum blow-off pressure is reached, then a
second Disc [27E] may be added.
If it still vents, then the Spring [27F] must be replaced.
Vented Relief Valves:
If the Vented Relief Valve fails to vent within the recommended blow-off pressure,
reset the Adjusting Screw [27J] as necessary and perform this step again. Make
sure you fully bleed off all pressure each time you test for blow-off pressure.
VICTOR Relief Valves are stamped with their nominal set
Regulator Max.
Delivery Pressure
15 PSIG 30 PSIG 27 to 33 PSIG
40 PSIG 60 PSIG 55 to 66 PSIG
125 PSIG 200 PSIG 180 to 220 PSIG
200 PSIG 400 PSIG 360 to 440 PSIG
9. When all testing is completed, bleed pressure off the Relief Valve. Install the Cap Nut
[27K] on the Vented Relief Valve.
10. Apply either Teflon® tape or Loctite® #222 to the Relief Valve (or Pipe Plug) [27]
threads. Install the Relief Valve (or Pipe Plug) into the Body and torque to 15 ft-lbs.
11. Apply only Loctite® #222 threadlocker to the Outlet Connection [26] threads. Install the
Outlet Connection into the Body and torque to 15 ft-lbs.
12. At this point, thoroughly blow out the Body assembly with pressurized oil-free air or dry
nitrogen to insure it is completely free of chips and debris.
13. Install the Bottom Guide [22] into the Body – it should slip in freely. Note its orientation
when installing – the cupped end with the hex on it should face up.
14. Preassemble the seat components: Push the Friction Damper [21] into the Gland [20],
and then slip the Valve Spring [19], Gland and Friction Damper onto the shaft of the Seat
Assembly [18].
TIP: The Friction Damper should have enough tension to hold the Gland and the
Valve Spring in position on the shaft of the Seat Assembly. If there appears to be no
tension (if the parts just seem to want to fall off), then there may be a problem with
your Friction Damper, or the Friction Damper may not be firmly pushed up in place
inside the Gland.
Then install the preassembled seat components into the Regulator Body – with the
Friction Damper and Gland fitting down into the cup shape of the Bottom Guide.
Mating Relief
Valve (Nominal)
Recommended
Blow-off Pressure
- 7 -
15. Install the new O-Ring [17] onto the Nozzle [16], taking care to guide it carefully over the
Nozzle threads to avoid nicks or tears. DO NOT use lubricant on the O-Ring. Install the
Nozzle/O-Ring into the Regulator Body and torque to 15 ft-lbs. Note that 15 ft-lbs is the
same recommended torque for the Inlet Connection Swivel, so as you torque down the
Nozzle, you’re also finish-tightening the Inlet Swivel to the correct torque value.
TIP: Watch the Inlet Swivel while you torque down the Nozzle. If the Swivel is turning
with the Body, then you need to tighten the Inlet Nut tighter on the Inlet Swivel
Assembly Plug. You want to be sure that the 15 ft-lbs torque is being applied to both
the Nozzle threads and the Inlet Swivel threads.
16. Preassemble the Adjusting Mechanism: Apply CHRISTO-LUBE® #129 Lubricant to
the entire length of the threads of the Drive Screw [12], and screw the Guide Bushing
[13] onto the Drive Screw (by hand) all the way up until it stops (do not over tighten!).
Note that this is a left hand thread. Next, apply only Loctite® #222 to the threads of the
#10-32 Screw [7], and install the Screw and Washer [14]into the Drive Screw –
tightening until snug.
TIP: Make sure you’ve got the Drive Screw oriented correctly – the Screw and
Washer you just installed should be in the end that’s opposite the square flats.
17. Install the Diaphragm Assembly [4], Adjusting Spring [15], preassembled Adjusting
Mechanism and Thrust Washer [11] onto the Regulator Body. Note that the Diaphragm
centers itself in a recessed pocket in the top of the Body. Don’t forget the Thrust Washer! Regulator function will be impaired without it.
18. Install the Bonnet [2] on to the Body. Take care while slipping the Bonnet down over the
internal components – the ribs inside the Bonnet must slide into the scallops of the Guide
Bushing.
TIP: If your Bonnet still has the Gas I.D. decal on it, make sure you get the Bonnet
oriented correctly with the Gas I.D. decal facing front.
19. Install the five (for ESS2) or six (for ESS4) Socket Head Cap Screws [10] into the
Bonnet. Tighten all bolts until snug, then torque each to 12-15 ft-lbs in the sequence
shown in FIGURE 1.
FIGURE 1 - Torque Sequence for Bonnet Screws
- 8 -
20. Apply a small amount of CHRISTO-LUBE® #129 to the top surface of the Bonnet (the
surface around the square of the Drive Screw), then slip the Knob [9] into position – with
the square hole inside the knob mating to the square shaft of the Drive Screw.
21. Apply only Loctite® #222 to the #10-32 Screw [7] and install the Screw and Washer [8]
to hold the Knob on. Torque this Screw 16-18 in-lb. Note that if the mating surfaces of
the Bonnet and Knob are not in factory new condition, this torque may result in the Knob
becoming too tight and difficult to turn. If this occurs, simply loosen the Screw slightly
until the desire rotation tension is achieved.
22. Apply new Knob or Gas I.D. decals [6, 30, 31] as needed to insure the Regulator
maintains clear visual identification.
TIP: If you’re replacing the rear Body Gas I.D. decal, make sure you don’t cover up
the model number stamped on the Body. The Gas I.D. decal should be positioned
right next to the stamping, with the arrow on the decal pointing to the stamped model
number.
23. Disconnect the Regulator from the Inlet Swivel Assembly Plug. The Regulator is now
ready to test.
RECOMMENDED TOOLS AND SUPPLIES FOR TEST PROCEDURES
• Test Gun (quick opening on/off valve) with #52 (.0635”) restricting orifice
• Source of oil-free air or dry nitrogen
TEST PROCEDURES
WARNING!
For your safety, and the safety of others:
• Always test with oil-free air or dry nitrogen only.
• Always wear eye protection while testing a Regulator.
• Always perform all of the following test procedures after reassembling a Regulator.
1. Adjust the Test Manifold to the proper pressure shown in TABLE 4.
Gas Service Manifold Pressure for Testing
Acetylene & LP Gas 250±20 PSIG
CO2 & N2O 100±100 PSIG
Air, Argon, Hydrogen, Helium, Nitrogen,
Oxygen
TABLE 4 – Edge™ Regulator Test Pressures
2. Attach the Regulator to the Manifold connection or test adapter. Start the nut by hand
(do not force), and tighten securely with a wrench to create a seal.
3. Turn the Regulator Adjusting Knob clockwise two or three times until you feel slight
tension being applied to the Adjusting Spring.
4. Slowly open and close the Manifold Valve two or three times to remove contamination
that may cause malfunctions. Leave the Manifold Valve closed.
a. If no flow comes through the Regulator, determine the cause – refer to the
TROUBLESHOOTING CHART at the end of this section.
5. Turn the Adjusting Knob counterclockwise until it stops, and attach the Test Gun (with a
#52 restricting orifice) to the outlet of the Regulator.
2000±100 PSIG
- 9 -
6. Open the Test Manifold Valve and close the Test Gun.
a. Manifold working pressure will appear on the High Pressure Gauge.
b. If the Low Pressure Gauge begins to show pressure building, turn the Test Manifold
off and refer to the TROUBLESHOOTING CHART.
7. Use the values in the following TABLE 5 for all subsequent tests:
Edge™ Model
ESS2-15-
ESS4-15ESS2-40-
ESS4-40ESS2-125-
ESS4-125ESS2-200-
ESS4-200-
A
Pressure Set
for Leak Test
15 PSIG 5 PSIG 3 PSIG 1 PSIG
40 PSIG 10 PSIG 3 PSIG 1 PSIG
125 PSIG 20 PSIG 4 PSIG 1 PSIG
200 PSIG 50 PSIG 5 PSIG 1 PSIG
Pressure Set for
Creep/Drop Test
B
C
Drop
Allowance
D
Initial Shut-off
Allowance
TABLE 5 – Edge™ Regulator Test Values
8. LEAK TEST
a. With the Test Gun closed and the Manifold Valve open, adjust the Regulator to
deliver A PSIG.
b. Close the Manifold Valve and turn the Adjusting Knob one turn counterclockwise.
c. Observe the Low Pressure and High Pressure Gauges for five (5) minutes:
1. If the High Pressure Gauge reading drops, there is a leak in the Cylinder Valve,
Inlet Connection, High Pressure Gauge or the rear plugged high pressure port.
2. If the Low Pressure Gauge reading drops, there is a leak in the downstream
equipment, Low Pressure Gauge, Outlet Connection or Relief Valve port.
3. If the High Pressure Gauge reading drops at the same time the Low Pressure
Gauge reading increases, there is a leak in the Regulator Seat.
d. If any leaks are found, isolate if possible using a liquid leak detector, disassemble and
repair or replace parts as needed, and start the test over again. Refer to
TROUBLESHOOTING CHART for more detailed cause and possible corrective
action information.
9. DROP TEST
a. With the Test Gun closed and the Manifold Valve open, adjust the Regulator to
deliver B PSIG.
b. Open the Test Gun and note the new indicated delivery pressure. Drop (indicated
pressure static minus indicated pressure flowing) must not exceed C PSIG.
10. CREEP TEST / SLOW SHUT-OFF TEST
a. With the Test Gun closed and the Manifold Valve open, adjust the Regulator to
deliver B PSIG.
b. Open and close the Test Gun several times to stabilize the Regulator. Leave the test
gun closed.
c. Observe the Low Pressure Gauge for five (5) minutes:
1. During the first minute, an initial shut-off increase of D PSIG is permissible.
2. During the next 4 minutes, no further increase (creep) is allowed.
- 10 -
11. Close the Manifold Valve and release all pressure from the Regulator by opening the
Test Gun. Turn the Adjusting Knob counterclockwise until it stops.
12. Remove the Test Gun from the Regulator.
13. Remove the Regulator from the Test Manifold. The Regulator is now ready to use.
TROUBLESHOOTING
CAUSES POSSIBLE CORRECTIVE ACTIONS
1. No gas flows through the Regulator and the High Pressure Gauge does not
indicate pressure.
a. Inlet or Inlet Filter is plugged. Blow 40-45 PSIG of air through the Filter in
reverse direction of the normal gas flow.
b. Empty Supply Cylinder. Replace the Cylinder.
2. No gas flows through the Regulator and the High Pressure Gauge does indicate
pressure.
a. Damaged Adjusting Mechanism or
missing components.
b. Adjusting Knob not installed
correctly.
c. Outlet Connection plugged. Inspect and clear the Outlet Connection of
d. Broken Adjusting Spring. Replace the Adjusting Spring.
e. Broken Seat Stem. Replace the Seat Assembly.
Check the Drive Screw, Guide Bushing and
Thrust Washer – insure they are installed
correctly and moving freely in the Bonnet.
Make sure the square of the Drive Screw is
properly mated into the square in the
Adjusting Knob.
any debris.
3. Gauges do not indicate pressure but gas flows through the Regulator.
a. Defective Gauge(s). Replace Gauge(s).
4.Regulator does not deliver in its designed delivery pressure range.
a. Incorrect Adjusting Spring used
during repair.
b. Damaged Adjusting Mechanism or
missing components.
5. Regulator hums or clatters while flowing.
a. Missing Friction Damper. Install a Friction Damper.
b. Missing Bottom Guide. Install the Bottom Guide.
c. Flow exceeds Regulator capacity. Reduce flow to below the maximum rating of
d. Restriction upstream of the
Regulator.
Replace with correct Adjusting Spring.
Check the Drive Screw, Guide Bushing and
Thrust Washer – insure they are installed
correctly and moving freely in the Bonnet.
the Regulator.
Inspect system and remove restriction.
- 11 -
CAUSES POSSIBLE CORRECTIVE ACTIONS
6. Regulator experiences excessive drop.
a. Friction Damper too tight. Replace the Friction Damper and/or Gland.
b. Wrong size orifice in Test Gun. Insure the correct orifice is installed in the
Test Gun - size #52 (.0635”).
c. Partially plugged Inlet Filter. Clean or replace the Inlet Filter.
d. Incorrect Adjusting Spring used
during repair.
e. Low Cylinder pressure or Manifold
test pressure.
f. Flow exceeds Regulator capacity. Reduce flow to below the maximum rating of
7. Increase in the low pressure gauge reading (creep).
a. Loose Nozzle. Tighten Nozzle to 20 ft-lbs torque.
b. Missing or damaged Nozzle O-Ring. Inspect and install or replace O-Ring as
c. Accumulation of foreign particles on
Seat Assembly or seating surfaces.
Replace with correct Adjusting Spring.
Check Cylinder and Manifold pressure and
adjust/replace as needed.
the Regulator.
necessary.
Clean seating surfaces and/or replace Seat
Assembly.
8. With the cylinder valve closed, the High Pressure Gauge indicator drops, and
there is no immediate increase in pressure indicated on the Low Pressure
Gauge.
a. Loose connection – Regulator to
Test Manifold.
b. Loose connection – Inlet Swivel to
Regulator Body.
c. Loose connection – High Pressure
Gauge to Regulator Body.
d. Loose connection – Rear Pipe
Plug.
e. Leaking Gauge. Replace the Gauge.
9. Low Pressure Gauge indicator slowly drops, and there is no decrease in
pressure on the High Pressure gauge when the Manifold Valve is closed.
a. Test Gun is not attached securely. Tighten the Test Gun.
b. Loose connections at the
Regulator Body – Outlet
Connection, L.P. Gauge or Relief
Valve/Plug
c. Loose connection – Bonnet to
Body.
d. Damaged Diaphragm. Replace Diaphragm Assembly.
Insure Regulator is securely tightened to the
Manifold.
Tighten the Swivel using 20 ft-lbs torque.
Tighten the High Pressure Gauge using 10 ftlbs torque minimum (See STEP 2 of the
Assembly Procedure).
Tighten Pipe Plug using 15 ft-lbs torque
minimum.
Tighten connections using 15 ft-lbs torque
minimum.
Tighten Bonnet Screws using 12-15 ft-lbs.
Follow the sequence shown in STEP 19 FIGURE 1 of the Assembly Procedure.
- 12 -
8
/
/
CAUSES POSSIBLE CORRECTIVE ACTIONS
10. Rapid pressure drop on both High and Low Pressure Gauges.
a. Loose connection – Bonnet to
Body.
b. Loose connection – Regulator to
Test Manifold.
c. Cracked Body. Replace the Regulator Body.
11. Rapid increase in Low Pressure Gauge reading.
a. Damaged or loose Nozzle. Replace and/or tighten the Nozzle to 20 ft-lbs
b. Heavy accumulation of foreign
particles on Seat Assembly or
seating surfaces.
c. Internal crack on the high pressure
side of the Body.
d. Missing or damaged Nozzle O-
Ring.
e. Improper Adjusting Spring (spring
too long).
Tighten Bonnet Screws using 12-15 ft-lbs.
Follow the sequence shown in STEP 19 FIGURE 1 of the Assembly Procedure.
Insure Regulator is securely tightened to the
Manifold.