VEXILAR LC-507C, EDGE 3 LC-507C Owner's Manual
1
Edge
3
Color LCD
Depth Sounder
Model LC-507C
Owner’s Manual
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CONTENTS INTRODUCTION
The Concept
The whole idea of the Edge3 is the
ability to see the same thing using two
different types of sonar. The Edge3 is
actually two depth sounders built into
one unit. Each sounder has it’s own
advantages. The goal is to give you
the best of both worlds so that you can
know more about what’s underneath your boat.
TRUE Dual Frequency / Dual Beam Operation
The Edge3 is not your run-of-the-mill dual frequency depth
sounder. You truly have two separate sounders with two
separate transducers with separate controls.
107 kHz Depth Sounder
The first of the two sounders uses a 107 kHz frequency with
a 38° cone angle. This low frequency gives you a lot of power
throughout the very wide cone. Low frequencies have an
edge over higher frequencies by being able to cover a lot of
area and reach into deep water much more efficiently. Lower
frequencies also tend to filter out targets of very small size.
400 kHz Depth Sounder
The other half of the Edge3 uses a 400 kHz frequency offering
a 10° cone angle. This high frequency gives a very tight cone
for amazing precision. Higher frequencies have an advantage over lower frequencies for these reasons. Higher frequencies will also see small targets the low frequencies miss.
Introduction 2
Specs & Features 3
Installation 4
Connecting to Power 4
Transom Transducer Installation 4
Electric Trolling Motor Transducer Installation 5
In-Hull Transducer Installation 6
Temperature Probe Installation 6
Unit Operation 7
Understanding the Display 7
Control Panel Keys 9
Menu Functions 10
Accessories & Replacement Parts 15
Trouble Shooting 16
Service 16
Vexilar reserves the right to modify the features
and specification described within this manual
at any time and without notice.
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Separate Controls to Fine-Tune Each View
Because the two sounders act so differently, separate controls allow
you to make each show you what you want to see. For example,
you would generally keep the gain much lower on the 107 than
the 400 in the same depth of water. Also, you may be very interested in bottom content, yet at the same time want to see the entire
water column with the best view. With separate controls, you can
set the range on the 107 to best show bottom content and multiple
echoes while keeping the 400 set to show from the bottom up.
Ease of Use
The biggest problem with most high-end sounders these days
is the complexity of the controls and menus. The Edge3 reduces
this problem significantly by giving you front panel controls for
the most important functions, plus Modes that let you set up the
system for different situations. These Modes save your front panel
and menu settings. When you hit the Mode button to change to a
new Mode, your setting for the last Mode are saved. A common
practice is to set up your modes the way you want, and from then
on, simply turn the unit on and switch between your Modes.
SPECS & FEATURES
Display: 16-Color 320 x 240 TFT (4-3/4” x 3-3/4”)
Frequency: 107 kHz & 400 kHz
Cone Angle: 38° (107 kHz) & 10° (400 kHz)
Resolution: 2” Minimum
Power: 1600 Watts of Peak-to-Peak Power
Speed: 40 Pixel/Second Max
Voltage Requirement: 11 - 35 Vdc
Current Draw: 1.25 Amps Max
Size: 9-1/4” W x 8-1/2” H x 3-3/8” D
Weight: 3-3/4 Lbs
Features
• 4 User Modes
• “Favorite Feature” Key
• “Instant High-Speed” Key
• “Previous View” Memory
• Front Panel Auto/Manual Range
• Front Panel Auto/Manual Gain
• Front Panel Clean Line Control
• 107 & 400 Composite Feature
• 4 Optional Background Colors
• 6 Optional Signal Color Schemes
• x2, x4, or x8 Split Screen Zoom
• Auto or Selectable Zoom Zone
• Bottom Hardness Graph
• Selectable Pulse Length
• Selectable STC
• Multiple Echo Control
• Auto-Gain Level Control
• Fish Alarm
• Hard Bottom Alarm
• Temperature Probe
• Voltage Indication
• Clean Line
• Temp Zone Alarm
• Super-Bright Backlight
• 2-Year Warranty
Depth Ranges
2’, 3’, 5’, 7’, 10’, 15’, 20’,
25’, 30’, 35’, 40’, 50’, 60’,
70’, 80’, 100’, 120’, 150’,
and 200’
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INSTALLATION
You will need to find a place to mount the unit that will make it
easy to view and reach. You must provide the unit with power
and mount the transducer and temp sensor in an effective location.
Mounting the Unit
Find a convenient place to mount
the unit. Make sure that there is
plenty of room for the unit to tilt
freely without the cables binding or
stretching behind the unit. Once you
have found the spot, remove the unit
from the gimbal bracket and securely
attach the bracket to the mounting surface. The screws provided
are for wood/carpet or dash mounting applications. If you want
to use an optional removable swivel bracket, be sure it’s able to
support the weight of this unit.
A Decorative Wire Cover has been included to help make your
rigging job look good. Use this to cover up the large hole you’ll
need to drill to fit the transducer, temperature probe, and power
connectors through.
Connecting the Power
Plug the 2 pin connector into the back of
the unit. Find the closest source of 12 volts
and route the cord to it. Keep the cord
away from sharp metal edges and avoid
tight places where the cord may get crushed. Connect the white
wire to positive and the black wire to negative. If the cord provided is not long enough, more can be added. Use 18 gauge wire
minimum. Install a 2 amp in-line fuse, placed in the positive line,
as close to the power source as possible, to protect against shorts
in the wiring.
MOUNTING THE TRANSDUCERS
The transducer mounting method will depend on which version
of the Edge3 you purchased. In either version, it is important to
mount the two transducers as close together as you can. This
will insure your Edge3 gives you the information it was design
to offer.
• LC-507C TM - Transom Mount Transducers
• LC-507C ETM - Trolling Motor Mounted Transducers
• LC-507C IH - In-Hull Mounted Transducers
Transom Mounting
Locate the transducers and bracket
hardware. Each transducer has a
mounting bracket assembly which
includes;
2 Angle Brackets
4 Bracket Screws
4 Washers
4 Nuts
4 Mounting Screws
Attach the bracket to the transducer as shown in Figure 5. The
flanges of the bracket normally point outward, away from the
transducer. If mounting space is tight, you can reverse the angle
brackets and face the flanges inward.
Locate a spot for each transducer similar to the one shown. If your boat hull
has a significant rise (more than 10°),
you should mount the transducer so the
bottoms are parallel to the water line.
If your boat hull is level, or has only a
small rise, you should keep the bottom
of the transducers parallel with the hull
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line. Keep in mind that you need clear water flow across the face
of the transducers to insure a clear reading at all speeds. Stay
away from rivets, ribs, or strakes that would be just in front of
the transducers. They will disturb the water and scramble the
reading. The 107 kHz transducer is more susceptible to this effect
than the 400 kHz transducer, so it is a good idea to place it closer
to the center of the transom where smooth water flow is easier to
maintain.
After you attach each mounting bracket to each transducer, hold
it up to the boat where you are planning to mount it. Mark the
four holes on the transom, or mounting plate, so that when the
bottom of the transducer is flush with the bottom of the boat the
holes are located at the bottom of the bracket slots. This gives
you room to "fine tune" the position of the transducer downward
and optimize your reading after you've put the boat back in
the water. Drill out the holes and install the transducer bracket
assembly. Tighten the screws down securely. Be sure to seal any
holes drilled into the transom with silicone to prevent water from
leaking into the boat.
Route the transducer cord up to the unit taking the same care as
you did when you routed the power cord. Make sure that the
cord is restrained and not allowed to flop around in the wind.
This can cause stress on the wire inside the cable, and possible
breakage. Plug the transducer connector into the back of the unit
and screw the retaining ring down tight. Make sure the frequency
labeled on the transducer cable matches the frequency labeled on
the transducer jack on the unit. If you get the two transducer connections reversed, the until will not operate properly.
After you have put the boat back in the water confirm that you
can maintain a bottom reading at all boat speeds. If not, loosen
the bracket screws and tilt the transducer some more. Keep the
front edge flush with the boat, but drop the back edge down a
little more. If changing this angle several times does not clear up
the reading, loosen the mounting screws and slide the transducer
down slightly. Repeat these adjustments until you get a clear
reading. You’ll most likely be looking for a balance between high
speed performance and the transducers producing a “rooster
tail”. The further you go down below the hull, the better the
transducer will perform at high speed, but the more likely it will
be to result in water spray. Make sure that all mounting screws
are tight when you’re done adjusting.
Trolling Motor Mounting
Install the transducers into the one-piece trolling motor mounting bracket as shown. Use the two included large cable ties to
attach the transducer to the electric trolling motors lower unit.
Using the slots in the transducer bracket, run the ties through
them and around the motors lower unit. Locate the transducers
on the bottom of the lower unit as shown. Locate the 107 kHz
towards the front of the motor. This transducer is more susceptible to turbulence, so keep it further away from the propeller.
Run the cables up the shaft using
smaller cable ties or electrical
tape to hold it them in position.
Make sure that the cables will
not be damaged by the movement of the trolling motor. Plug
the transducer connectors into
the back of the unit and tighten
the retaining rings. Make sure
the frequency label on the
transducer cable matched the
frequency labeled on the transducer jack on the unit. If you get
the two transducer connections
reversed, the until will not operate properly.
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