Vermont Castings 0016 User Manual

Inner Top Replacement

Installation Instructions

Kit #0016

for the Dutchwest Extra­Large Convection Heaters

General Information

The two-piece inner top kit for the Dutchwest Extra­Large convection Heater fits 1990-93 units (model
2184, with two front doors) and 1993-97 units (model
2460, with a single front door).

The sides, front and inner back of the stove trap the in­ner top. Replacing the original style inner top requires a
complete rebuild of the stove. Once the new style inner
top is in place, if you need to replace the insert you can
do so by removing only the stove top.

Work in a clear, well-lighted area. If possible, work out
doors. If you must work indoors, use a drop cloth and
protect the surrounding area. Wear gloves, a dust mask
and protective eyewear.

Kit Contents:

• Inner top casting insert • Inner top insert

• Refractory insulator • 2 pieces of Interam gasket

• Refer to Figure 7 to identify parts.

Tools Required:

• Rubber mallet, or standard hammer and a block of
wood

• 7/16” open-end wrench

• 3/8” cold chisel, or old screwdriver

• Needle-nose pliers (for later units only)

• Wire brush, hand-held or rotary

• Stove cement and putty knife. The easiest way to ap­ply cement is from a tube in a caulking gun. Other­wise, use a putty knife to apply cement from tube.

• Penetrating oil. Use Marvel Mystery Oil, Liquid
Wrench or similar; WD-40 is not strong enough for
this work.

• Automotive anti-seize compound

• Shop Vac with very good filter. Do not use a regular
household vacuum on soot - it is fine enough to pass
right through most common filters.

• Drop clot or tarp

-

Disassembly Procedure

1. Make sure the stove is completely cool before you
begin. Remove ashes and dispose of them properly.
An empty ashpan is a handy tray for hardware and
small parts.

2. Remove the probe thermometer from the stove
top. Some units have a small chrome sleeve on the
probe shaft; be sure to keep track of this if it is loose.

3. Lift off the front door(s) and the side door. You can
remove the doors by wiggling them back and forth,
and lifting at the same time.

4. Unfasten and remove the top. (Fig. 1) A bolt at each
corner holds the top to the rest of the stove body.
There is a gasketed seal between the stove top and
the rest of the body. Lift off the stove top and set it
aside, upside down. Check the gasket for compres­sion or wear; replace if necessary.

Loosen
all four(4)
Bolts Before
Removal

Loosen, then

ST790

Fig. 1 Remove four (4) bolts to release the stove top.

5. Lift out the decorative front brass bar, the refractory
insulator and the catalyst. (Figs. 2 and 3) Be careful
with the catalyst, as it is fragile. Place the insulator
in a sealed plastic bag pending disposal. Check the
combustor for major cracking or crumbling. Refer to
the stove manual for details on evaluating the cata­lyst.

From this point on, penetrating oil will help to release

hardware. Use automotive anti-seize compound
when you replace hardware, to ease future repairs.

Fig. 2 Remove the refractory insulator.

remove these
bolts

Refractory
Insulator

7001208 8/08 Rev. 3

Remove the anchor bolt and nut joining the damper

to the damper adjuster; open the damper or reach
through the firebox to get at the nut. The rearward
bolt in the base of the adjuster is the adjusting bolt;
leave it in place. (Fig. 3)

C-Clip

Washer

Adjusting

Damp­er Rod

Steel Tab

Anchor
Bolt

Fig. 3 Catalyst, damper and associated parts.

Bolt

Damper Crank

Damper

Damper
Adjuster

Steel Tab
Catalyst

ST792

Remove the two bolts holding the steel tabs which

capture the pivoting ends of the damper, and remove
the damper. (Fig. 3)

Rotate the damper crank forward and flip the damp

­er adjuster upside down. Slide the adjuster to the left
end of the crank. (Figs. 4 and 5)

Check the steel damper rod where it passes through

the left side of the stove. Early style rods have
threads where they pass through the left inner side
of the stove. Later units have a retaining clip in a
groove on the rod, just inside the left outer side. (Fig.

5)

For early units: use the stove door handle to turn the

damper rod and crank counterclockwise (as you
face the left end of the stove), till the rod unthreads
from its threaded hole. As you turn the rod and crank
through the high point of the arc, you will need to
maneuver the adjuster to clear the back plate of the
stove. When the threads on the rod clear the thread­ed hole, remove the rod and lift out the damper and
adjuster. Note that the illustrations show the later
style of handle, with a permanently-mounted base.
(Fig. 4 and 5)

Damper Crank

Damper
Adjuster

ST793

Fig. 4 For early units, unthread the damper rod from the
damper crank and the inner top’s inner wall.

ST794

Fig. 5 On later units, remove C-clip from damper rod.

For later units: remove the retaining clip from the steel

rod. Pull the rod out of the stove, then remove the
damper crank and the damper adjuster (Fig. 5)

5. Unfasten the stove front. There are nuts and wash

­ers on threaded studs on the insides of the front/
sides joints; sometimes these are above the inner
top /front joints. Sometimes they are below this joint
(inside the firebox). There are two studs on each
side.

6. Break the cement seal around the stove front. From
inside the stove, tap outward along the seams
between the front and the stove sides, and between
the front and the inner top. Use either a rubber mal­let or a hammer and a wooden block to cushion the
impact. Have a helper hold the top edge of the stove
front to keep it from falling when the cement seal
is completely broken. With the seal broken, lift the
front panel off the stove, and set it down flat, with
its outer side down; do not set it on its bottom edge,
as this can damage the ash door hinges. On stoves
with a single front door there is an air channel and
primary air valve fastened to the inside of the stove’s
front panel. Leave these in place on the stove front,
and be careful to avoid any impact on the air valve
handle.

7. Remove the right-hand side of the stove (as you
face the stove). Inside the firebox, use a wooden
prop to support the inner top. There is a nut and
washer on a threaded stud where the right side
meets the stove back; remove the nut and washer
and leave the stud in place. Tap outward, from inside
the firebox, to break the cement seal. With the seal
broken, pull the side away from the rest of the fire­box, and set it down with its inner side up.

8. Now all that holds the inner top in place is the
wooden prop, and cement along its left and rear
edges. Grasp the inner top and wiggle it back and
forth while pulling toward yourself at the same time.
Watch that the supporting prop doesn’t fall out of
place. When the inner top comes loose, set it down
on a protected spot on the floor.

9. Remove the inner top channel cap by unbolting it
(from the underside of the inner top). You may need

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