Vermont Casting WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System User Manual

WinterWarm
Fireplace Insert or System
Homeowner’s Installation and Operating Manual
For Use in North America
SAFETY NOTICE: IF THIS APPLIANCE IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED, OPERATED AND MAIN­TAINED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT. TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE, FOLLOW THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY OR EVEN DEATH. CONTACT LOCAL BUILDING OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA.
Do Not Discard This Manual: Retain for Future Use
2000941 1/06 Rev. 15
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
Introduction
Thank you for purchasing a Vermont Castings’ WinterWarm, an efficient fireplace carefully engineered to bring you the latest in wood combustion principles and modern foundry technology.
The WinterWarm masonry Fireplace Insert turns a traditional masonry fireplace into a powerful heater; the Winter­Warm Fireplace System combines an insulated metal cabinet with the Fireplace Insert so that it may be installed in close-clearance situations where no masonry fireplace and chimney exists.
Whichever you have purchased, you can count on years of comfortable heating and pleasureable fire viewing if you treat it properly and operate it according to the directions in this owner’s guide.
The WinterWarm Fireplace Insert, and the WinterWarm Fireplace System that utilizes the WinterWarm Fireplace Insert, are listed by Underwriter’s Laboratories of Canada, and are in compliance with the standards set forth by the Federal Environmental Protection Agency, 40 CFR Part 60.532(b), as stated on the permanent label attached to each appliance.
This manual describes the installation and operation of the WinterWarm catalytic-equipped wood heater. This heater meets the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s emission limits for wood heaters sold after July 1, 1990. Under specific test conditions this heater has been shown to deliver heat at a rate ranging from 10,300 to 30,000 Btu’s/hr.
For more complete details on WinterWarm performance and specifications, please refer to page 3.
The WinterWarm is designed, tested and listed for burning wood. Do not burn other fuels.
We recommend that you hire a professional installer certified by Wood Energy Technical Training (WETT) to install your WinterWarm, or to advise you on the installation should you attempt to install it yourself.
Please read the appropriate sections of this manual before you install and use your WinterWarm. For information on the installation of a WinterWarm into a masonry fireplace, read Sections III and V. To learn how to install the Winter­Warm and its Cabinet that make up the fireplace system, read Sections IV and V. For information on Operation and Maintenance of the WinterWarm, read Sections I and II.
Failure to follow instructions may result in property damage, bodily injury or even death.
Save These Instructions For Future Reference
Table of Contents
Introduction ....................................................2
Specifications ................................................
Operation .......................................................
Maintenance ..................................................
Preparing a Masonry Chimney ....................
Installing the Fireplace System Cabinet ......
Appendices ..................................................
16
21
38
Before you begin, here’s a timesaving tip on using this manual.
3
4
9
To learn how to operate and maintain the Winter-
Warm, read Sections I and II.
To install a WinterWarm Fireplace Insert into a
masonry fireplace, read Sections III and V.
To install a WinterWarm Fireplace System, read
Sections IV and V.
Proposition 65 Warning: Fuels used in gas, wood­burning or oil fired appliances, and the products of combustion of such fuels, contain chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth de­fects and other reproductive harm. California Health & Safety Code Sec. 25249.6
2
2000941
WinterWarm
37"
(959 mm)
26"
(676 mm)
8" (203 mm)
12
"
(327 mm)
12
"
(327 mm)
15"
(394 mm)
4"
(121 mm)
21
"
(553 mm)
6"
(172 mm)
7"
(200 mm)
36"
(914 mm)
7" (191 mm)
29
"
(759 mm)
25"
(648 mm)
41"
(1041 mm)
13"
(349 mm)
7"
(200 mm)
15"
(403 mm)
23"
(603 mm)
18" (470 mm)
33” (838 mm)
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
Specifications
Range of heat output* ............. 10,300 - 30,000 BTU/hr
Maximum heat output** ..........................50,000 BTU/hr
Area heated*** ................ Up to 1500 sq. ft. (140sq. m)
Size of wood splits ....................... 20-24” (508-610 mm)
Fuel Capacity .......................................... 40lbs. (18 kg)
Loading ..................................................................Front
Flue size .................................................... 8” (203 mm)
Fireplace Insert weight ........................ 475lbs. (216 kg)
Fireplace System weight ..................... 840lbs. (380 kg)
Primary Air Control ........................Manual/thermostatic
Secondary Air Control ............................Self-regulating
Glass panel ......................... High-temperature ceramic
Flue exit position ..................................................... Top
Blower rating ...............................106cfm. (115V, 60Hz)
*Under specific test conditions used during EPA emis
-
sions standard testing. **This value can vary depending on how the unit is
operated, and the type and moisture content of the fuel used. Figure shown is based on maximum fuel con­sumption obtained under laboratory conditions and on average efficiencies.
***These values are based on operation in building­code conforming homes under typical winter climate conditions in New England. If your home is of nonstan­dard construction (e.g. unusually well insulated, not in­sulated, built under ground, etc.) or if you live in a more severe or more temperate climate, these figures may not apply. Since so many variables affect performance, consult your Vermont Castings’ Authorized Dealer to determine realistic expectations for your home.
Fig. 1 WinterWarm dimensions.
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Top View / System Cabinet
3
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
Section I Operation
Your WinterWarm’s Controls
and What They Do
Three controls regulate the performance of your Win­terWarm: A primary air control supplies oxygen for the fire, a damper directs air flow within the fireplace, and a variable-speed fan control, or rheostat, regulates the warm air flow into the room. (Fig. 2)
Primary Air Control
A single air control regulates the amount of heat the fire will produce and how long it will burn.
The primary air control is located above the upper left corner of the door. It is the top-most of the two brass­capped controls located there (the brass knob on the bottom regulates the fan), and is the primary source of air for starting, maintaining, and reviving the fire.
Generally, more air entering the stove makes the fire burn hotter and faster, while less air prolongs the burn.
The WinterWarm’s air supply is open to the maximum when the control lever is moved to the left, and closed when moved to the far right. It may be set anywhere between the two extremes, however, depending on the amount of heat desired.
To complement the manual setting of the air control, the WinterWarm has an internal automatic thermostat that ensures an even delivery of heat at the manual setting you select.
Primary Air Control (Top Lever)
Fan Speed Control (Rheostat) (Bottom Lever)
Optional Outside
FP1070
Fig. 2 All WinterWarm controls are located conveniently on the front.
Air Control
Damper Control
Door Handle
Damper Open
The Damper
The damper directs air flow within the fireplace.
The damper is operated by moving the lever located above the upper right corner of the door. It has two positions: Open, to start or revive the fire (Fig. 3); and closed (Fig. 4), for normal operation. The damper is open when the lever is to the far left, and closed when to the far right. There are no intermediate settings for damper position.
When the damper is closed, the front door automatically locks to prevent the door being inadvertently opened when the fireplace is in its catalytic mode. This could cause smoke to spill into the room.
To open the damper, lift up on the lever and move it to the far left. The lock will disengage, allowing you to open the front door.
To close the damper, move the lever to the right, continuing past the resistance to lock the damper in position. (The door handle must be positioned vertically before the lock mechanism will engage.)
4
FP1071
Fig. 3 The damper is open; Smoke is vented directly to the chimney.
Damper Closed
Catalytic Combustor
FP1072
Fig. 4 Damper is closed: Smoke is channelled through the catalytic combustor where much of it can be burned.
2000941
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
The Fans
Two fans deliver a steady stream of warm air.
Heated air from your WinterWarm is forced into the room by two internal fans. The control for the fans is below the brass primary air control knob, just above the upper left corner of the door. (Fig. 5)
“Off” is to the far left. “High” is just to the right of “Off.” “Low” is to the far right.
Variable adjustment of the fans is possible with any set­ting between “high” and “low.”
For best results, coordinate fan speed with the setting of your thermostat. For example, when the thermostat lever is set at “low,” also set the fans at “low.” With the thermostat set for maximum heat, set the fans at “high.”
Air Control Lever,
Medium
High Air Setting
Fan Control Lever (Fan Off)
Fig. 5 Variable settings for both the fans and the air control are possible between the two extreme settings.
Low Air Setting
Fan On
FP1073
Burn Only High-Quality Wood
The WinterWarm is designed to burn natural wood only; do not burn fuels other than that for which it was designed.
You’ll enjoy the best results when burning wood that has been adequately air-dried. Avoid burning “green” wood that has not been properly seasoned.
The best hardwood fuels include oak, maple, beech, ash, and hickory that has been split, stacked, and air­dried outside under cover for at least one year.
For areas that do not have a supply of hardwood, com­monly burned softwoods include tamarack, yellow pine, white pine, Eastern red cedar, fir, and redwood. These too should be properly dried. Your WinterWarm will accept wood up to 24” (610mm). Longer wood pieces work better than short ones.
Wood should be stored under cover to maintain dry
­ness, and should be dried at least six months for optimum heating and fire-viewing performance. Even for short-term storage, however, keep wood a safe distance from the heater and keep it out of the areas around the heater used for refueling and ash removal.
Use the Air Control Settings
that Work Best for You
No single air control setting will fit every situation. Each installation will differ depending on the quality of the fuel, the amount of heat desired, and how long you wish the fire to burn.
The control setting also depends on your particular installation’s “draft,” or the force that moves air from the stove up through the chimney. Draft is affected by such things as the length, type, and location of the chimney, local geography, nearby obstructions, and other factors.
Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in the WinterWarm, and could even damage the com­bustor. On the other hand, too little draft can cause backpuffing into the room and/or the “plugging” of the chimney or combustor.
How do you know if your draft is excessively high or low? Symptoms of too much draft include an uncon­trollable burn or a glowing-red part of the WinterWarm front. A sign of inadequate draft is smoke leaking into the room through the stove or chimney connector joints, low heat, and dirty glass.
In some newer homes that are well-insulated and weather-tight, poor draft may result from insufficient air in the house. In such instances, an open window near the stove on the windward side of the house will provide the fresh air needed.
Another option for getting more combustion air to the stove is to duct air directly from the outside to the stove. In fact, in some areas provisions for outside combustion air are required in all new construction.
Your WinterWarm is designed so that it is possible to incorporate outside air for combustion. Directions for installing the optional outside air duct may be found beginning with Step 4 on Page 31.
When first using the stove, keep track of the settings of the air controls. You will quickly find that a specific setting will give you a fixed amount of heat. It may take a week or two to determine the amount of heat and the length of burn you should expect from various settings.
Most installations do not require a large amount of combustion air, especially if adequate draft is available.
Do not for any reason attempt to increase the firing of your heater by altering the air control adjustment range outlined in these directions.
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WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
Use the following air control settings as a starting point to help determine the best settings for your installation. Each is described as a fraction of the total distance the lever may be moved from right to left.
WinterWarm Control Settings
Burn Rate Primary Air Control
Low From far right to 1/3 the distance to left Medium From 1/3 to 2/3 the distance to left High From 2/3 the distance to left to far left
How To Build a Wood Fire and
Keep It Going
A WinterWarm leaves the factory with the combustor installed.
In the United States, it is against the law to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual, or if the catalytic combustor is deactivated or removed.
High-Efficiency Wood Burning
with Catalytic Combustion
The components of the catalytic combustion system in your WinterWarm work together to produce optimum conditions for secondary combustion.
When the damper is closed, smoke is directed through the catalytic element, which causes ignition of smoke at temperatures of 500-600°F (260-315°C), half the temperature normally required for unaided secondary combustion.
The catalytic element is a ceramic “honeycomb” coated with the catalytic material. The element is located in the secondary combustion chamber, molded from a special high-temperature insulating refractory mate­rial. The design of the chamber provides the correct environment necessary for secondary combustion of the fuel (smoke).
Catalytic combustion is activated by closing the damp­er, thereby exposing the smoke to the combustor.
Closing the stove damper may also reduce the draft, so to avoid putting out the fire or deactivating the combus­tor, close the damper only when a fire is well-estab­lished. When starting a fire, wait until the fire is well established and there is an ember bed of at least 3-4” (76 - 102mm) before closing the damper.
Never kindle a fire with colored paper or paper that has colored ink or a glossy surface, and never burn treated wood, garbage, solvents, or trash. All of these may poison the catalyst and prevent it from operating properly. Never burn cardboard or loose paper except
for kindling purposes. Never burn coal; doing so can produce soot or large flakes of char or fly ash that can coat the combustor and cause smoke to spill into the room. Coal smoke also can poison the catalyst so that it won’t operate properly.
In general, the fire must be sufficiently well-established to ensure that catalytic activity is initiated. When first starting a fire, a medium- to high- firing rate must be maintained for at least twenty minutes. This ensures that the stove, catalyst, and fuel are all stabilized at the proper operating temperatures.
Even though it is possible for the fire to get quite hot within a few minutes after a fire is started, the combus tor may stop working or the fire may go out if the fire is allowed to die down immediately as a result of the damper being closed. Once the combustor starts work­ing, heat generated by burning the smoke will keep it working.
To determine whether the combustor is operating, ob serve the amount of smoke leaving the chimney when the damper is activated and when it is not. This proce­dure is described on Page 12.
-
-
Starting and Maintaining a Wood Fire
Burn solid wood fuel only in the WinterWarm, and burn it directly on the grate. Do not elevate the fuel. Do not burn coal or other fuels.
Cast iron is a superior material for solid fuel stoves but it must be treated with respect. It is extremely strong, but can be broken with a sharp blow from a hammer or from the thermal shock of rapid and extreme tempera­ture changes.
The cast plates expand and contract with changes in temperature. Minimize thermal stress by allowing the plates to adjust gradually during an initial break-in fire by following Steps 1-3 below.
Always be certain that the damper is open when start­ing a fire or when refueling. This rule is easy to re­member, as the WinterWarm’s integrated door/damper interlock design does not permit opening the door unless the damper is already open. To open the damper, lift up
on the lever and move it to the left. (Fig. 6)
WARNING: Operate your WinterWarm only with the door fully closed and either the glass panel or spark screen in place. If the door is left partially open, gas and flame may be drawn out of the fireplace opening, creating risks of both fire and smoke.
6
2000941
Open
Fig. 10 When the damper is closed, the front door automati-
cally locks to prevent opening while a fire is burning.
Closed
Damper Control Lever
FP1074
1. Open the stove damper, and open the primary air control fully.
2. Lay some crumpled newspapers on the bottom grate. Place on the paper six or eight pieces of dry, finely-split kindling. On the kindling lay two or three larger sticks of split dry wood approximately 1-2” (25-51mm).
Do not use chemicals or fluids to start the fire. Do not burn garbage or flammable fluids such as gaso­line, naptha, or engine oil.
Also, never use gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids to start or “fresh­en up” a fire in this heater. Keep all such liquids well away from the heater while it is in use.
3. Light the newspaper and close the door. Gradually build up the fire by adding a few 3-5” (76 - 127mm) diameter splits.
If this is your initial break-in fire, let the fire burn brightly, but not to excess. Control the fire’s intensity by adjust­ing the air control lever. After an hour or so stop adding wood so that the fire dies out gradually.
For ongoing operation after the initial break-in, continue to add a few sticks at a time of a progressively larger size. Be sure to keep the fuel load behind the front grate bar at all times. Continue until you have a live ember bed at least 3-4” (76 - 102mm) deep. This may take an hour or longer, particularly when the Winter­Warm is vented to an exterior masonry chimney or when you are just starting a fire.
You’ll soon find out that the WinterWarm is HOT WHILE
IN OPERATION! KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING, AND FURNITURE AWAY. CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS.
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
NOTE: Some chimneys need to be “primed,” or warmed up, before they will draw sufficiently to start a fire. To correct this situation, roll up a couple pieces of newspaper, place them on top of the kindling and toward the back of the stove, light them, and close the doors. This should heat the chimney enough to initiate a draft.
Once the draft is established, open the front door and light the rest of the fuel from the bottom. Do not light the main bed of fuel until the chimney begins drawing, and repeat the procedure as often as necessary if the initial attempt is unsuccessful.
4. Once a good ember bed of at least 3-4” (76 ­102mm) has formed, close the damper to activate the combustor. To ensure continued operation of the combustor, let the fire burn hot for an additional ten to fifteen minutes after the damper is closed.
5. Close the primary air control to a medium-low set
­ting, or about 1/3 the distance from right to left in its travel range as described on Page 4. The fire volume will diminish immediately, but the Winter­Warm will continue to heat up. Maintain control of the fire using the primary air control, and remember: reduce the setting for less heat, increase the setting for more heat. Refer back to the air control settings chart on Page 4 for recommended settings at differ­ent burn rates.
DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overfiring may cause a house fire, or can result in permanent damage to the stove and to the catalytic combustor. If an exte­rior part of the WinterWarm glows, you are overfiring.
Reloading and Reviving a Wood Fire
Open the stove damper, set the air control on “High,” and wait at least fifteen seconds for the draft to in­crease. Open the door slowly.
Check the ash level, and empty the ash pan if neces­sary. Replace the pan.
Add the fuel, smaller pieces first. If it is necessary to use wood smaller than the 24” (610mm) optimum size, be sure to fill the firebox as completely as possible by loading the wood pieces alternately on the left and right. Split wood will fill the firebox more completely and reduce the frequency of reloading.
If you have an ember bed of at least 3 - 4” (76 ­102mm), leave the damper open and the thermostat set on “high” for 10-15 minutes, then close the damper. If the ember bed is less than 3 - 4” (76 - 102mm), you may have to let it burn longer.
Finally, adjust the air control and fan speed for your desired heat level.
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WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
NOTE: If the charcoal bed is relatively thick and your fuel is well-seasoned, it is possible to add fresh fuel (smaller pieces first), close the door and damper, and reset the air control within five minutes.
Special Tactics for Cold-Climate Heating
The WinterWarm is capable of producing up to 50,000 Btu’s/hour and heating an area of up to 1,500 ft.2 (140 m2) However, many factors affect heating performance and can influence the extent to which the WinterWarm can heat a given area.
A well-insulated home, located in a moderate climate and with the WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or Fireplace System located centrally in an open floor plan, will be easier to heat than a drafty home in the far north in which a WinterWarm is installed on an exterior wall at the end of a long house.
In Fireplace Insert installations, over-sized chimneys can produce less effective results than those that are properly sized, and interior chimneys usually perform better than those located outside the house.
Different results may be experienced even in the same installation if you switch from burning good, dry wood to wood that is partially rotted or inadequately seasoned.
To compensate for these factors in cold climates, it may be necessary to operate the WinterWarm for longer periods of time than described above before closing the damper, or to leave the air control set to a higher level more of the time.
Open-Fire Viewing
with the Screen Cassette
The cassette screen that was included with your Win­terWarm is interchangeable with the glass cassette, en­abling you to convert from closed-door wood burning to protected open-fire viewing. Always leave the damper open when operating the WinterWarm with the screen in the open-fire mode.
To change cassettes, use this procedure:
Let the WinterWarm cool completely
Examine the gasket that seals the cassette to the
perimeter of the door frame. Contact your local dealer if you need a replacement gasket.
Check the bottom channel of the door frame for
debris, and clean if necessary.
Insert the new cassette, bottom edge first, then
the top edge.
IMPORTANT: The glass used in your WinterWarm is coated with a special material on one side that reflects heat back into the fire chamber. Before replacing a glass cassette that has been removed, examine the metal frame. One side has smooth, mitered corner joints; the other side has rough weld marks.
To install the glass correctly, the smooth mitered corners must be facing the gasket and the rough weld marks must be positioned toward the fire chamber.
Replace the two retainer clips, applying just
enough pressure to secure the cassette evenly against the gasket.
Remove and Store Ash Safely
Check the ash pan before reloading the stove, and empty if necessary using the following procedure:
Open the damper
Open the load door (Fig. 7)
Pull open the ash chamber door with the hooked
end of the fall-away handle.
If the ash level is nearing the top, place the
removable cover over the pan and make sure it is completely engaged. Ash may contain hot coals and must be treated with extreme care.
Take the pan outdoors and empty the ash into
your ash container.
Open the door
Loosen the two short retainer clips, one at each
top corner of the cassette frame, and turn them to clear the frame.
Tilt the top edge of the cassette away from the
door frame.
Carefully remove the cassette, being especially
careful with the glass cassette. Store the unused cassette for future use.
8
FP1075
Fig. 7 Carefully remove ash pan.
2000941
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
Before replacing the ash pan, clear away any ash
that has spilled over the sides and back of the pan.
Replace the ash pan and close the ash door and
front door.
Empty the ash pan regularly, typically every one to three days. The frequency will vary depending on how you operate your WinterWarm: You burn more wood at higher heat output settings, and ash will accumulate faster.
Ash should be removed frequently and placed outdoors in a metal container with a tight-fitting lid. The closed container of ash should be placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground, well away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ash is disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, it should be retained in the closed container until all cin­ders have thoroughly cooled. -Wood ash may be used as a garden fertilizer.
CAUTION: Never use your household or shop vacuum cleaner to remove ash from the fireplace; always re­move and dispose of the ash properly.
Section II Maintenance
Keep your WinterWarm Looking New and Working Its Best
Care of the Cast Iron Surface
An occasional dusting with a dry rag will keep the painted cast iron of your WinterWarm looking new.
If the paint needs retouching, first allow the surface to cool completely. Wire-brush areas needing to be painted. Touch-up with high temperature stove paint available from your local dealer. Apply the paint spar ingly. Two light coats are better than one heavy one.
Care of the Porcelain Enamel Surface
Use a soft brush as necessary. Do not use water or other liquids on your WinterWarm. Fingerprints usually can be buffed off porcelain enamel with a dry, soft cloth. If marks remain, allow the WinterWarm to cool com­pletely, then buff with a slightly damp, soft cloth. Dry completely before starting a fire to avoid streaking.
Never use abrasives or harsh chemical cleaners on the porcelain enamel finish. The enamel may scratch and expose the cast iron, which can then stain or rust. If you must remove spills or stains from porcelain sur­faces, make sure that the fire is out and that the Win­terWarm has cooled completely before cleaning. Use a kitchen appliance cleaner and polish especially formu­lated for enamel surfaces. Apply the cleaner sparingly with a soft cloth, and buff away all traces.
-
Cleaning the Glass
The WinterWarm glass system requires a minimum amount of cleaning. Most carbon deposits that accumu­late will burn off during hot fires.
Ash residue that accumulates on the glass should be removed periodically to prevent etching. To clean the glass, follow this procedure:
Be sure the glass is completely cool.
Cleaning with water will work in most cases. Use
a glass cleaner especially made for this purpose only if deposits are especially heavy. (If heavy deposits are a frequent occurrence, however, evaluate your operating techniques.)
Rinse the glass thoroughly.
Dry the glass completely.
NOTE: The WinterWarm glass is coated with a special material on one side that helps reflect heat back into the fire chamber. Do not attempt to re­move this coating.
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WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
Adjust the Door Latch Periodically
The front door of the WinterWarm should close securely to prevent accidental opening and should close tightly to prevent air from leaking into the fire chamber. The door handle will be positioned vertically when the door is closed.
Over a period of time, the gasket around the door will compress and the latch may need adjustment. To adjust the handle, follow this procedure (Fig. 8):
1. Loosen the small lock nut with a wrench.
2. Extend the striker screw one turn by turning it with an Allen wrench.
3. Re-tighten the lock nut, while at the same time hold ing the striker screw with the Allen wrench to prevent its turning.
Test the door seal. Close the door on a dollar bill and attempt to pull it free. If the bill is freed with little resis­tance, the gasket isn’t snug enough at that spot. Contin-
Pawl
Small Locking Nut
Striker Screw
-
How to Replace Gaskets
Your WinterWarm uses rope-type fiberglass gaskets to make a tight seal between some parts. With use, par­ticularly on those parts that move, gaskets can become brittle and compressed and can begin to lose their ef­fectiveness. These will need periodic replacement.
All of the gaskets used are made of fiberglass. The three sizes of replaceable gasket are listed below,
along with their application.
Replaceable WinterWarm Fiberglass Gaskets
Gasket Size... ...And The Parts It Seals
1/2” The door to the front (#1)
1/2” The door to the front edge of the grate (#2)
3/16” The cassette glass seal to the door (#3)
3/8” The damper to the upper fireback (#4)
Short Re­tainer Clips
Large Locking Nut
Set Screw
Handle Stub
Fig. 8 An adjustable latch lets you restore a tight seal to the WinterWarm’s door.
ST531
ue to make small adjustments until the setting is right.
If additional adjusting of the latch does not enable the door to seal sufficiently in one area, try “adjusting” the gasket in that area. Pack more cement or a smaller diameter gasket into the channel beneath the gasket so the main gasket is raised and makes contact with the door frame. This procedure should solve the problem. If it doesn’t, replace the gasket following the directions below.
10
Welded Corner Toward Firebox
Long Retainer
#3 Gasket
#2 Gasket
#1 Gasket
Fig. 9 Front door components allow replacement of the glass, gaskets or both.
Clips
FP1076
Should you need to change a replaceable gasket, wait until the fire is out and the stove has cooled. Be sure to follow the standard safety procedure for working with dusty materials: Wear safety goggles and a dust mask. The procedure for replacing gaskets is the same, regardless of the gasket location. Four easily-accom­plished steps are involved:
1. Remove the existing fiberglass gasket by grasping an end and pulling firmly.
2. Use a wire brush or the tip of a screwdriver to clean the channel of any remaining cement or bits of gas­ket.
3. Apply a thin bead of stove cement to the newly­cleaned groove.
4. Pack a new gasket into the groove. Wait until you have placed all but a couple inches from the end before you trim the end to an exact fit.
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WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
Replacing the Door Gaskets
Remove the door by lifting it straight up off its hinge pins. Lay it face down on a padded surface.
Follow steps 1-4 as described above.
#3 Gasket
#1 Gasket
Fig. 10 Location of door gaskets.
#2 Gasket
FP1077
Replacing the Damper Gasket
Remove the front grate, bottom grate, ash pan, and ash pan frame.
Follow steps 1-4 as described above.
#4 Gasket
3/8” (10mm) Tail
Fig. 11 Location of damper gaskets.
Other gaskets form seals between non-moving parts, but these are not subject to the same wear and dete­rioration as gaskets on moving parts. It is unlikely that you will ever need to replace these gaskets unless the involved parts are disassembled and then put back together. In any event, this is a job that should be done only by qualified service personnel.
FP1078
Permanent WinterWarm Gaskets
Gasket size... ...And The Parts It Seals
1/2” The underside of the top plate to the top edge of the air manifold
5/16” The flue collar to the top plate
5/16” The right end of the air manifold to the right side plate
5/16” The left end of the firechamber to the left end of the air manifold
5/16” The bottom edge of the lower firebackto the bottom plate
5/16” and 3/8” The ends of the upper fireback to the lower fireback and to the ribs of the right and left side plates
Replace Damaged Door Glass Immediately
Do not operate the WinterWarm with a damaged glass (or screen) cassette. Use the following procedure for cassette replacement.
NOTE: Replace glass only with CFM Corporation high temperature ceramic glass, available from your Ver­mont Castings’ Authorized Dealer.
Open the door and loosen the two retaining clips, one
at each upper corner, which hold the cassette to the door frame. Swing the clips out of the way. Tilt the cas­sette away from the door frame and lift up. Use caution when handling a cassette that contains broken glass.
Examine the gasket that seals the cassette to the
door frame. Replace if necessary with gasket obtained from your local Vermont Castings’ Authorized Dealer. See the directions for gasket replacement on page 9.
Check the channel at the bottom of the door frame,
and clear away debris if necessary. IMPORTANT: The glass used in your WinterWarm is coated with a special material on one side that reflects heat back into the fire chamber. Before replacing a glass cassette that has been removed, examine the metal frame. One side has smooth, mitered corner joints; the other side has rough weld marks.
To install the glass correctly, the smooth mitered corners must be facing the gasket and the rough weld marks must be positioned toward the fire chamber.
Secure the clips, being careful not to over-tighten. Be
sure the cassette is firmly seated against the gasket. Close the door gently to confirm that the clips have been properly positioned. It is possible for the glass to be damaged if the clips have been installed incorrectly and the door is closed with force.
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11
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
Adjust the Damper as Needed
Examine your WinterWarm’s damper after the first 50 hours of use and adjust it if necessary. Thereafter, check the damper at least once a year and adjust as needed.
Both fine and coarse adjustments to the damper are possible. Begin with the fine adjustment, which modifies the pressure on the damper plate directly; it will take care of most sealing problems. Proceed to the coarse adjustment, which adjusts the pressure at the damper latch, only if you cannot achieve a satisfactory seal with the fine adjustment.
To inspect how well the damper seals, first make sure that the fire is out and that the WinterWarm is cool. Open the front door, and close and lock the damper. Visually inspect the seal between the damper plate and the damper frame; there should be no gaps. Now, push gently on the damper — there should be some give, but no rattle. If there is a gap in the seal or a rattle, adjust the damper.
Damper Adjustment Screw
Lock Nut
Damper
3. With the damper open, loosen the latch retaining screw.
4. Move the latch approximately 1/8” (3mm) to the right, and retighten the retaining screw.
5. Close and lock the damper, and check for gap and rattle. Adjust the set screw as described under “Fine Adjustment.”
Repeat the coarse adjustment if necessary. For further assistnce, contact your Vermont Castings’
Dealer.
Damper Latch
Latch Retaining Screw
Damper Control Rod
Shroud
FP1081
Left Throat Half
Throat Retainer Clip
Fig. 12 A view of the damper as seen through the front door.
Right Throat Half
FP1080
Try the Fine Adjustment First
1. Open the door.
2. Close and lock the damper.
3. Locate the damper adjustment set-screw in the cen ter of the damper plate, and loosen its lock nut.
4. Turn the set-screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn clockwise.
5. Check the damper seal for gap or rattle.
6. When the set screw position provides a good seal, tighten the lock nut. Be careful not to overtighten the set screw.
Use the Coarse Adjustment Only If Necessary
Follow Steps 1-3 of the fine adjustment procedure, then;
1. Turn the set screw counter-clockwise several full turns.
2. Lift off the mantel piece to expose the damper latch.
12
Fig. 13 With the mantel removed, the damper latch is ex­posed for adjustment.
Care of the Catalytic Combustor
This wood heater contains a catalytic combustor, which needs regular inspection and periodic replacement for proper operation. It is against the law in the United States to operate this wood heater in a manner incon­sistent with operating instructions in this manual, or if the catalytic element is deactivated or removed.
Under normal operating conditions, the catalytic com­bustor should remain active for two to six years (de­pending on the amount of wood burned). However, it is important to monitor the combustor periodically to ensure that it is functioning properly, as well as to de-
-
termine when it needs to be replaced. A non-functioning combustor will result in a loss of heating efficiency, and an increase in creosote and emissions.
The combustor should be visually inspected “in place” for fly ash accumulation and physical damage three times per year. Actual removal of the combustor is not recommended unless a more detailed inspection is war­ranted because of diminished performance as outlined below.
The refractory package that houses the catalytic com­bustor should be inspected annually for a build-up of fly ash and cleaned if necessary. This may be done during examination of the catalytic combustor.
The catalytic combustion system includes an air supply for secondary combustion. The probe which controls the supply should also be inspected annually.
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WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
When to Suspect a Combustor Problem
The best way to evaluate the performance of your WinterWarm’s combustor is to observe the amount of smoke leaving the chimney — both when the combus­tor has achieved “light-off” and when it has not. Follow this simple two-step procedure:
With a fire going and the combustor properly acti-
vated with the damper closed to route smoke through it as described in the Operation Section, go outside and observe the smoke leaving the chimney.
Then, open the stove damper and once again ob-
serve the smoke leaving the chimney.
Significantly more smoke should be observed after the second step when the stove damper is open and exhaust is not routed through the combustor. Be careful not to confuse smoke with steam from wet wood.
If this test indicates a problem, consider other possible factors as well, such as the time of year or a change in the quality of your fuel. In spring and fall, draft is weaker than it is in colder winter weather, and fires can burn sluggishly. Small, hot fires are a good solution under these conditions.
Burning “green” (insufficiently seasoned) wood will re­sult in poorer performance than when burning properly seasoned fuel. You may have to run your stove hotter (more air) to achieve good performance if you are burn­ing green or wet wood.
Also, consider any changes in your operating routine as well.
Once you have ruled out any other possible causes for a decline in performance, you may proceed with an inspection of the combustor.
4. Tip the lower fireback forward, and remove it by lift­ing it up and toward you.
5. Carefully remove the access panel. (Fig. 15) It is extremely delicate and should be handled as little as possible.
6. Slide the catalytic element out. (Fig. 16) Handle it carefully, as the element is fragile.
Grate
Front Grate Bar
Throat Pieces
Fig. 14 To reach the catalytic combustor, remove front grate bar, grate, throat pieces and lower fireback.
Retainer
Ash Door
Lower Fireback
FP1079
Inspection and Removal of the Combustor
Before you begin, observe the basic safety precautions for working with dusty materials: always wear safety glasses, a recommended dust mask, and gloves. To expose the combustor, first remove the throat pieces by tapping upward at the far left and right corners with a soft-faced hammer. Leave the bolt in the retainer loose, and leave the retainer in place.
Examine the top surface of the catalytic element, which will be visible. A small mirror and flashlight may provide a better view. Unless the element shows a heavy fly ash accumulation or major damage, do not remove it.
If combustor removal is necessary for cleaning or closer inspection, follow these steps (Fig. 14):
1. Remove the front grate bar.
2. Remove the grate.
3. Remove the throat pieces as described above
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Access Panel
Fig. 15 Remove the access panel.
Fig. 16 Removing the catalytic element.
FP1082
FP1083
13
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
1"
Check the combustor and the bottom of the refractory
chamber for a build-up of fly ash, and remove any ash by taking the combustor outside and gently blowing air through the element. Do not brush the surface, as this could damage the element. Carefully vacuum ash from the refractory chamber.
Refer to the “Catalytic Combustor Appendix” on Page
37 for information on what kinds of damage or deterio­ration to look for. Although small hairline cracks will not affect performance, the combustor should be essen­tially intact. If the combustor is broken in pieces or has sections missing, it should be replaced. Call your local Vermont Castings’ dealer for a replacement combustor, item #30001152. Consult the warranty section at the back of this manual for further information on catalytic combustor replacement.
While the catalytic element is removed, check the
condition of the secondary air probe. Use an inspec­tion mirror to locate the probe within the combustion chamber. (Fig. 17) The probe should extend 1 to 1¹⁄₂" (25 - 38mm) into the chamber and show no signs of deterioration, (warping, short length). Refer to the next illustration. A damaged secondary air probe could affect catalytic performance. If the probe needs to be re­placed, call your local dealer.
5. Reinstall the throat pieces, center edges first, then outer edges. Tap the throat pieces downward firmly to seat the lower fireback.
6. Replace the grate.
7. Replace the front grate bar. With the horizontal bars pointing down and away from you, angle the bar inside the firebox to seat the right end. Then, bring the left end forward and lower it into position.
Watch for Better Results
Finish up by cleaning the chimney and chimney con­nector. Then, use your WinterWarm in a typical man­ner for two weeks and observe its performance, taking particular note of the smoke observation test described on Page 11.
If a problem persists, contact your local dealer for fur­ther advice about your particular situation.
The Chimney System
A Clean Chimney System is
Safer and Works Better
Although the catalytic combustion system in your Win­terWarm can reduce creosote formation dramatically, it is not a substitute for regular inspection and cleaning of the chimney and chimney connector.
ST559
Fig. 17 Use an inspection mirror to check the secondary probe.
If the combustor is in good condition and clean, re-in­stall it following this procedure:
1. Slide the element carefully back into the refractory chamber, seating it securely. The element must be fully to the rear of the support slot.
2. Install the access panel, making sure that it is flush with the outer surface of the main refractory pack­age.
3. Check the slot in the rear bottom plate for debris, and clean if necessary.
4. Reinstall the lower fireback by inserting the base of the fireback in the slot. Tip the fireback up into place.
Learn to Recognize —
and Avoid — Creosote
Your WinterWarm has been designed to reduce creo­sote build-up significantly. However, regular chimney inspection and maintenance must still be performed. For safety, good stove performance, and to protect your chimney and chimney connector, inspect your chimney and chimney connector on a regular schedule. Clean the system if necessary. Failure to keep the chimney and connector system clean can result in a serious chimney fire.
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar, organic vapors and moisture which combine to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot fire within the flue system that can damage the chimney and overheat adjacent combustible material. If a significant layer of creosote has accumulated —1/8” (3mm) or more — it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
If you do experience a chimney fire, act promptly to:
Close the damper and thermostat lever.
Get everyone out of the house.
Call the Fire Department.
14
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WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
You should inspect the system every two weeks during the heating season as part of a regular maintenance schedule. To inspect the chimney, let the WinterWarm cool completely. Then, using a strong light, sight up through the flue collar into the chimney flue. If it is not possible to inspect the flue system in this fashion, the firechamber must be removed to provide better viewing access.
If it is necessary to remove the firechamber to inspect or clean the chimney, this is how to do it:
Let the WinterWarm cool.
Disconnect the fan power cord.
Remove the load door, grate bar, grate and ash
door.
Retract all four levelling screws until they bear no
weight.
If you installed the CFM Corporation Flex Connector
System, bend the four retaining tabs on the Starter Piece until they are straight. Push the Starter Piece upward until it is clear of the shroud.
Slide the firechamber forward until you have access
to the fireplace opening.
Remove any sealing plates and the chimney con-
nector from the fireplace damper frame area.
You can now inspect the smoke shelf area and the chimney. Before replacing the WinterWarm, this area should be inspected for signs of deterioration and cleaned thoroughly with a chimney brush.
Clean the chimney using a specially designed brush the same size and shape as the flue liner. Flexible fiber­glass rods are used to run the brush up and down the liner, causing any deposits to fall to the bottom of the chimney where they can be removed through the clean­out door.
The chimney connector should be cleaned by discon­necting the sections, taking them outside, and removing any deposits with a stiff wire brush. Reinstall the con­nector sections after cleaning, being sure to secure the individual sections with sheet metal screws.
If you can’t do the chimney inspection yourself, con­tact your local Vermont Castings’ Authorized Dealer, or engage a professional chimney sweep to perform the inspection and cleaning of the chimney.
If you are the owner of a WinterWarm Fireplace Sys­tem, the prefabricated chimney used with your fireplace should be cleaned from above using an 8” round brush and the appropriate number of extension rods for com­plete access.
The chimney cap first must be removed following the procedure recommended by the manufacturer. After thoroughly cleaning the chimney, reinstall the chimney cap according to the manufacturer’s directions.
WinterWarm Maintenance Schedule
Fireplace: Daily:
Ash should be removed before the level reaches the
top of the pan. Check each time you re-load, or at least once a day.
Keep the area around the fireplace clear of any com-
bustible material.
Yearly Spring Cleaning:
Remove ash from the fire box and replace with a
moisture-absorbing material (such as Kitty Litter) to keep the interior of the fireplace dry.
Touch up painted surfaces with black paint.
Flex Connector:
Two Weeks:
Inspect the chimney and flex connector. Clean the
system if necessary.
YEARLY SPRING CLEANING:
Disassemble the flex connector and take it outdoors
for inspection and cleaning. Replace weak sections of connector.
Inspect the chimney for signs of deterioration.
Repairs to a masonry chimney should be made by a professional mason. Replace damaged sections of prefabricated chimney. Your local Vermont Cast­ings’ dealer or a chimney sweep can help determine when replacement is necessary.
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15
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
2 4 1 3
2 1
LEFT FAN
11
6
8
3 1 4 2
1 2
RIGHT
FAN
24
9
SH2
SH4
SH4 SH2
On Body Assembly
Field Cover
Wireway
13
21
17
17
21
8
13
2 4 1 3
2 1
PH2 PH4
RHEOSTAT
N
G I
H
N
H
15
Left Receptacle
B A
1
10
5
7
12
20
16
3 1 4 2
1 2
PH4 P H2
N
G I
H
N
H
Right Receptacle
19
23
14
22
18
On Front Assembly
Legend
Black Wire (Hot)
White Wire (Neutral)
Green Wire (Ground)
Female Terminal
Loop Terminal
Wirenut
Wire Number
Ground Screw (Green)
SH Socket Housing
PH Pin Housing
S Socket
P Pin
Large WinterWarm Wiring Diagram
16
2000941
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
2' Min.
2' Min.
3'
Min.
0 To 10'
3'
Min.
0 To 10'
Section III: Preparing a Masonry Chimney
Installing the WinterWarm into a masonry fireplace is an effective way to add an efficient heater to your home.
Requirements for the
Existing Masonry Fireplace
The WinterWarm Fireplace Insert is listed only for installation within a properly built masonry or heat circulating, masonry-type fireplace that is constructed in accordance with the requirements of recognized build­ing codes. A heat-circulating masonry-type fireplace must conform to building code standards for masonry fireplaces, and must consist of a factory-built metal firebox with air circulation pathways that are surrounded by masonry materials.
NOTE: The WinterWarm is not listed for use in “zero-clearance” prefabricated fireplaces, except when used as part of the Vermont Castings’ Winter Warm Fireplace system, including the WinterWarm Fireplace Energy Cabinet, item #2110 (referred to on the WinterWarm safety label as Fireplace Cabinet Model 1283).
The fireplace and chimney must be clean and structur­ally sound. Have it inspected by a qualified professional chimney sweep, a mason, or your Vermont Castings’ Authorized Dealer before the WinterWarm is installed. Any deterioration (cracks, loose mortar or loose bricks) must be repaired.
The fireplace should not be modified to install the Win­terWarm without first checking with your local building inspector or fire marshal. Do not remove bricks or mor­tar that may jeopardize the compliance of the fireplace with local building codes.
Requirements of your
Existing Masonry Chimney
Your fireplace chimney must be well-constructed and must meet minimum code requirements. The chimney flue should have a code-approved liner made of mason­ry or pre-cast refractory tiles, straight or flexible stain­less steel pipe, or a poured-in-place liner. An unlined chimney must be relined professionally. Chimney height should be no less than 15’ (4.6m) above the hearth and no more than 35’ (10.7m).
The chimney must have a nominal flue size of 8” x 8” (203 x 203mm) or larger, with a maximum size of 12” x 12” (305 x 305mm). Some chimneys originally de­signed for fireplace use may perform differently when used to vent an air-controlled appliance such as your WinterWarm. A chimney on an outside wall with a large
2000941
flue, for example, may not heat up enough to sustain an adequate draft. Such a flue can often be improved if it is relined to reduce its size and/or insulated to keep it warmer.
The chimney should extend at least 3’ (914mm) above the highest point where it passes through a roof, and at least 2’ (610mm) higher than any portion of a building within 10’ (3m). (Fig. 18)
-
Reference Point
Fig. 18 The 2’3’10’ rule for chimneys.
AC617
Existing masonry fireplace chimneys, especially older ones, may have one or more openings used at an earlier time to connect stoves in different rooms to the fireplace chimney. These openings must be sealed with masonry to the thickness of the chimney wall. Unused openings sealed with pie plates or wallpaper are a haz­ard. In the event of a chimney fire, flames and smoke may be forced out of these unused openings.
Do not connect your WinterWarm fireplace insert to a chimney flue serving another appliance.
Minimum Fireplace Dimensions
The WinterWarm Fireplace Insert will fit most masonry fireplaces. To confirm that it will fit yours, measure the lintel depth, plus the height, width, and depth of your fireplace and your hearth. Compare them to the mea­surements in the accompanying chart. If you choose to install a new hearth over an existing fireplace hearth, be sure to take its thickness into consideration when measuring both front and back height of the fireplace.
17
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
A,I
B
C
D,J
E
D,J
H
F,
G
C
E
X
C
A
B
Fireplace Minimums
A. Width at Face 34” (864 mm) B. Width at
¹⁄₂” depth 22” (559 mm)
18 C. Depth1 19” (483 mm) D. Height at Face 24” (610 mm) E. Height at 19¹⁄₂” depth 16” (406 mm) F. Damper Width G. Damper Length2 14” (356 mm)
2
5” (127 mm)
Fireplace Maximums
H. Lintel depth 6³⁄₄” (172 mm)
FP1084
I. Width3 51” (1295 mm) J. Height3 36” (914 mm)
1. The minimum depth must be maintained from the floor of the fireplace to a height of 16” (416 mm).
2. These are the minimum damper dimensions required for use of the Vermotn Castings Flex Connector System.
3. Though the WinterWarm Fireplace Insert will fit into larger fire­places, the decorative surround panels will not completely cover the fireplace opening if these dimensions are exceeded. Custom made trim may be used.
Fig. 19 Use thes measurements to confirm that the Winter­Warm will fit into your masonry fireplace.
Clearance Requirements
After confirming that your fireplace is the right size, check the clearances to combustibles. First mark with tape the exact center of your fireplace opening on the hearth. Measure the side clearance from this point. Measure the top trim and/or mantel clearances from the finished hearth surface. Measure the front clearance (to furnishings, etc.) from the fireplace face.
NOTE: The clearance between the WinterWarm Fire­place Insert and the mantel, top trim and side trim can­not be reduced by installing shields.
Another clearance requirement to consider is that for movable items such as tables, bookcases, rugs, furnishings, and your woodbox. All combustible materi­als of this type should be a minimum of 48” (1219 mm) from the front surface of the WinterWarm. Be sure that family members are aware of this requirement as well, so they too will keep objects a safe distance from the WinterWarm.
18
Measure side trim clearance from here
FP1085
Fireplace Clearances
Masonry Fireplace System Fireplace Cabinet A. Mantel* 38¹⁄₂” (978 mm) 43” (1092 mm) B. Top Trim* 38¹⁄₂” (978 mm) 43” (1092 mm) C. Side Trim** 24” (610 mm) 24” (610 mm)
*The mantel and/or top trim must be 9” (229 mm) in depth or less. For the WinterWarm System, measure from the supplied trim panel forward. **Where side trim extends more than 2” (52mm) from the fireplace facing, the side clearance must be no less than 42” (1067 mm). Measure the side clearance (C) from the exact center of your fire place opening on the hearth (X). Measure the top trim (B) and/or mantel clearances (A) from the finished hearth surface. Measure the front clearance (to furnishings, etc.) from the fireplace face.
Fig. 20 Observe these clearances to combustible trim.
-
Hearth Requirements
In some fireplaces, the hearth in front of the fireplace opening is brick, stone, slate, or some other non-com­bustible material that is in direct contact with concrete poured over earth. These are the only hearths that are considered noncombustible.
In other fireplaces, the brick or concrete hearth in front of the fireplace opening is supported by heavy wooden framing. Because neither brick nor concrete has good insulating properties, heat radiated by the fire will pass downward through the hearth to the wooden framing. Such hearths are considered combustible.
Unless the fireplace and hearth are constructed over a completely noncombustible surface (such as unpainted concrete over dirt), a floor protector must be used in WinterWarm Fireplace Insert installations in front of and to the sides of the door as protection against spilled coals and embers.
Floor protectors must extend at least 8” (203 mm) from the side of the door opening, making the protector 40” (1016 mm) wide. In addition, the floor protector must extend from the front door opening a minimum of 16” (410 mm) in the United States and 18”(457 mm) in Canada.
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K of new material (per inch)
K of listed material (per inch)
thickness of listed material
= x
IWF291 MBUF 6/19/96
(K factor of alternate material)
(0.84)
X (7/16" [11mm]) =
(Required thickness of
alternate material)
(5.0)
(0.84)
X (7/16" [11mm]) = 2.6" (65mm)
A
B
B
C
Flue Collar
United States Canada
A. 16“ (410 mm) 18” (457 mm) B. 8” (203 mm) 8” (203 mm) C. 40” (1016 mm) 40” (1016 mm)
NOTE: Measuring from the door opening of the insert to the fire­place opening adds 3¹⁄₂” (90mm) to the total depth of the hearth protector.
Fig. 21 Unless your fireplace and hearth are constructed over a dirt floor (or unpainted concrete over dirt), you must use a floor protector that satisfies the above requirements.
The approved construction of a floor protector calls for 24 gauge galvanized sheet metal covered with a listed floor protector material that is at least 7/16” (11 mm) thick (such as Wonderboard® or Durock®). The floor protector may be covered with a noncombustible deco­rative material if desired. (Fig. 21)
Custom-made floor protectors may be used if they offer the same protection as the approved floor protector described in the preceding paragraph, which in testing was found to have a standard K value of 0.84. Custom­built floor protectors must have a K value equal to, or less than, 0.84, meaning that heat will transfer at the same rate or more slowly than the tested standard.
To calculate the thickness required for an alternate material to result in a K value of 0.84, first determine the alternate material’s K factor. This information should be available from your local building supply yard. Then, calculate the following formula:
Let’s use brick as an example, since it is a commonly used hearth material. Its K factor is 5.0.
Glass Door
FP1086
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
That is, when using brick for the hearth extension, the brick must be a minimum of 2.6” (65 mm) thick.
Once you know the K factor of a given material, you can use this same formula to calculate its required thickness for approved hearth protection.
NOTE: Any floor protector thicker than 9/16” (14mm) will require elevating the firechamber on a solid, ap­proved floor protector to provide enough clearance for the door to open. This in turn will require a higher fire­place opening to permit installation of the fire chamber.
The Chimney Connector
Connect your WinterWarm Fireplace Insert to the chimney flue with a “positive flue connection.” Such a connection provides a direct passageway for smoke and exhaust gases leading from the flue collar of the WinterWarm to the first chimney lining tile. Positive flue connections are required in many areas before an installation can be approved.
The chimney connector itself should have a minimum cross-sectional area of 50 square inches (320 square centimeters), equivalent to an 8” (203 mm) diameter
opening, and must be 24 gauge or heavier.
Sealing Requirements
It is important to seal off the flue completely from the room air for proper operation of your WinterWarm. There are three ways to accomplish this:
1. Install a CFM Corporation Flex Connector system;
2. Install a customized seal at the damper level;
3. Have your chimney professionally re-lined and con­nect the liner directly to the WinterWarm.
Of these three choices, the Flex Connector not only provides an effective seal but usually is the easiest to install.
The Flex Connector System
The Flex Connector bends the chimney connector through angled smoke chambers and narrow damper frames, and its Block-off plate makes a tight seal at the damper frame. (Fig. 22)
To determine the suitability of the Flex Connector for your fireplace, carefully examine the fireplace damper area. The damper opening must be unobstructed and must measure at least 5” x 14” (127 x 356 mm) to accommodate the Flex Connector and the Block-off Plates. An undersized opening, or an opening obstruct­ed by heat exchanger tubes or damper components, may prevent the Flex Connector from extending up to the flue or may be possible only after special work has been done.
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19
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
1/4” (6mm) Bolt
1/4” (6mm) Nut
Pipe Support
Block-Off Plate
1/4” (6mm) Screw
1/4” (6mm) Washer
1/4” (6mm)
Wing Nut
Fig. 22 Components of the Flex Connector System.
Flex Connector
1/4” (6mm) Nut
Pipe Support
Starter Piece (Optional)
FP1087
Consult a Vermont Castings’ Authorized Dealer for in­stallation suggestions. It may be possible to enlarge the opening by removing or modifying the damper frame, but do this only if it won’t weaken the fireplace. Check with your local building inspector to be sure modifica­tions comply with local codes.
Although the Flex Connector is designed to be installed by any mechanically competent person, wide variations in fireplace and damper construction can complicate the installation. You may wish to have the job done by a professional installer. Complete detailed installa­tion instructions are included with the Flex Connector components.
A Relined Chimney
There are a number of fittings available from your Ver­mont Castings’ Authorized Dealer that are designed to form the connection between your WinterWarm and an 8” (203mm) diameter chimney liner. Your dealer as well as your local chimney sweep can advise you on the types of lining systems currently available.
Preliminary Steps for Installing the
WinterWarm into a Masonry Fireplace
1. Remove the Masonry Fireplace Damper
The existing damper plate within your fireplace must be removed or, if that is not possible, must be fastened securely in a fully-open position. Many dampers can be removed simply by removing a cotter pin and/or set screw.
2. Install the Flex Connector
Following the installation instructions that are packed with the Flex Connector, unfold the template that came with the WinterWarm. (Fig. 23) Carefully glue the tem­plate onto a large piece of sturdy cardboard or plywood, making sure that the fold lines have been flattened. Cut along the edges of the template and use it to place the Flex Connector components correctly in your fireplace.
Custom Fabrication:
Be sure any chimney connector or adapter is properly installed and secured in place. There should be a slip joint near the WinterWarm so that the connection can be easily disengaged for removal and cleaning of the unit.
A Custom Damper Seal
If the design of your fireplace damper prohibits the use of the CFM Corporation Sealing Package, an alterna­tive is to fabricate a custom sealing plate at or below the fireplace damper frame. The plate can be fastened securely to the lintel (the structural piece spanning the fireplace opening) and to the surrounding masonry, or be securely fastened to the damper frame. A section of chimney connector, attached to the WinterWarm flue collar, must make a positive flue connection where required by code.
20
Template
FP1088
Fig. 23 Using the template that came with the WinterWarm will help you position Flex Connector.
2000941
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
51¹⁄₂" (1308mm)
43⁷⁄₈" (1114mm)
35⁹⁄₁₆"
(903mm)
31³⁄₄"
(806mm)
3. Reverse the Flue Collar (If Necessary)
The flue collar of the WinterWarm is reversible to allow for installation into fireplaces with different lintel depths and different damper orientations. It is shipped in the rear-most position (the deep lintel position), which ac­commodates lintel depths up to 6³⁄₄” (172 mm). The fore-most flue collar position will accomodate lintels as shallow as 4³⁄₄” (121 mm) in depth.
Taking into account the location of the damper frame, choose the flue collar position that enables the chimney connector to be installed using the most gradual bend possible.
To reverse the flue collar, remove the flue collar in
­sert panel located on top of the shroud by removing the sheetmetal screws around the panel’s perimeter. Remove the two fasteners that attach the flue collar to the insert panel, then remove the panel. You then have access to the top plate and to the flue collar.
Remove the four fasteners that attach the flue collar to the top plate of the WinterWarm. Lift the flue col­lar away from the top plate. Position the flue collar in the desired orientation, and reinstall the four fasteners. Make sure the flue collar is seated firmly against the gasket material.
Replace the flue collar insert panel. Fasten the flue collar to the panel, and re-install the sheet metal screws around the panel’s perimeter.
4. Install the Floor Protector
Make sure the floor protector satisfies the requirements discussed on Pages 17 and 18.
5. Assemble the Optional Surround Panel and Lean it against the Front of the Fireplace
If your installation will include the optional surround panels, assemble them according to the instructions packed with the panels. Lean the finished assembly against the chase front.
The CFM Specialist Home Products modular Surround Panels cover gaps up to 4⁵⁄₈" (116 mm) using a single panel, and up to 9¹⁄₄" (231 mm) using double panels. Surround Panel kit #3014 has outside measurements of 31³⁄₄" tall by 43⁷⁄₈" wide (806mm tall x 1114 mm wide); by combining Kit #3014 with extension kit #3015, the resulting surround is 35⁹⁄₁₆" tall by 51¹⁄₂" wide (903 mm tall by 1308 mm wide).
Custom-made surround panels may be made from any noncombustible material, with the following restrictions: The maximum suggested thickness of the surround material is determined by both flue collar position and lintel depth. For installations using the front flue collar position, the maximum suggested surround thickness is 4" (102 mm) minus the lintel depth. For example, a 3" (75 mm) lintel would result in a maximum surround thickness of 1" (25 mm) .
There is no need to attach the surround panels to the insert or to the fireplace. The modular surrounds are sized to stand without additional support or attachment; they are simply trapped between the fireplace insert's cast-iron front, and the face of the fireplace.
For rear exit flue positions, the suggested position would allow a surround thickness of 3¹⁄₂" (88 mm).
With these preliminary steps completed, you can now proceed to install the WinterWarm firechamber and front. That information is located in Section V, “Com­pleting the WinterWarm Installation,” and begins on Page 29.
Kit #3014
Kit #3015
Fig. 24 CFM Corporation #3014 and #3015 Optional Sur­round Trim Kits.
FP1089
2000941
21
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
28¹⁄₂"
(724mm)
39¹⁄₂" (1003mm)
Trim 48" (1219mm)
Section IV: Installing the Fireplace System Cabinet
The insulated metal cabinet included with the Win­terWarm Fireplace System enables the WinterWarm Fireplace Insert to be installed in minimum-clearance situations and where no masonry fireplace or chimney exists, such as in new home construction or in renova­tion.
Use only CFM Corporation WinterWarm firecham ber Model #2100 in this fireplace cabinet. Do not use other products not specified for use with this fireplace. The two (2) vent ducts supplied with the energy cabinet must be installed as described in this manual. Never install the energy cabinet with­out installing the vent ducts.
-
Carefully Observe Local Building Codes
Meeting the requirements of your local building codes is an important part of planning your WinterWarm instal­lation. Because the final approval for an installation is always granted by local officials, and because codes vary in different areas, involving your local officials in the planning stage can help facilitate the approval process. Review your plans with them before beginning the installation.
Ask your Vermont Castings’ Authorized Dealer for help in providing the necessary information to local officials.
In the pages that follow you’ll find information on plan ning, construction, and clearance for almost all instal­lations. If you need further assistance, refer to the Na­tional Fire Protection Association ANSI/NFPA 211-1988 Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents and Solid Fuel Burning Appliances, or, in Canada, CSA B365. Your local Vermont Castings’ Authorized Dealer or your local building official may have a copy.
-
Selecting a Location for Your Fireplace
Centrally located installations circulate the heat most effectively and take full advantage of the WinterWarm’s powerful heating capability. (Fig. 25)
An interior chimney is preferred, as it stays warmer and provides a more reliable draft than a chimney on the outside of the building. Locating the chase on an exterior wall has the advantage of reducing the existing floor space required by the installation, however, and an exterior chimney can be enclosed in a chase built to resemble a traditional fireplace and insulated to keep it warmer.
LU584-1a
Fig. 25 The WinterWarm Fireplace System offers a variety of siting options.
Structural Considerations
of the Installation
Chase Dimensions
The WinterWarm Fireplace System installs in an open­ing just 28¹⁄₂" (724 mm) deep, 39¹⁄₂" (1003 mm) wide, and as little as 89" (226 cm) high. (Fig. 26) The enclos­ing chase will be wider by the thickness of studding and drywall, or other wall finish material. The basic trim package requires an overall enclosure width of at least 48" (1219 mm), plus the width of any edge molding to be applied. The chase must be at least 89" (226 cm) high.
FP1090
Fig. 26 Minimum dimensions for framing the WinterWarm Fireplace System when the chase is oriented perpendicular to wall.
22
2000941
66" (1683mm)
66" (1683mm)
27"
(686mm)
27"
(686mm)
39¹⁄₂"
(1003mm)
93¹⁄₂" (237cm)
FP1091
I
B
D
E
C
B
A
C
E
G
F F
I
B
D
E
F G
H
C
B
A
C
Fig. 22 Minimum dimensions required for framing a corner installation of the chase.
2” x 4” or Smaller
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
Chase Front
A 39¹⁄₂” (1003 mm) E 12” (305 mm)
B 62” (1575 mm) F 9³⁄₄” (248 mm) C 89” (2260 mm) G 12¹⁄₈” (308 mm) D 28” (711 mm) I 28
Fig. 29 Suggested framing and dimensions for venting the air ducts through the chase front.
Chase Side
¹⁄₂” (724 mm)
FP1093
Chase Front
Chase Side
A 39¹⁄₂” (1003 mm) F 9³⁄₄” (248 mm)
B 62” (1575 mm) G 12¹⁄₈” (308 mm) C 89” (2260 mm) H 9³⁄₄” (248 mm) D 28” (711 mm) I 28
¹⁄₂” (724 mm)
E 12” (305 mm)
Fig. 28 Suggested dimensions and framing for side-venting the air ducts of the chase.
Duct and Vent Placement
The WinterWarm offers great flexibility in positioning the hot air ducts. The ducts can vent through the side of the chase, through its front, or one each through both the side and the front. Either or both ducts also may be vented into a room behind, beside or above the room in which the WinterWarm is installed. Both ducts must
be installed in order to properly vent the hot air in­side the energy cabinet. Failure to connect the vent ducts could result in overheating of the cabinet and surrounding construction. The ducts must be installed at least 12” (305 mm) from the ceiling and no lower than the cabinet top.
2000941
FP1092
Figures 28 and 29 show construction dimensions for some of the common duct placements.
Chimney Requirements
For proper draft and best performance, the chimney should extend at least 15’ (4.6 m), and not more than 35’ (10.6 m), above the hearth surface. If the chimney above the roof line is enclosed in a chase, the chimney must extend at least 3’ (914 mm) above the top of the chase. The chimney must be supported either from the roof or from the floor joists above the WinterWarm. The cabinet is not intended to be the sole support of the chimney. Support systems are available from the chimney manufacturer.
An installation with a straight, vertical chimney will have the best draft and is the easiest to clean.
If structural components such as floor joists or roof raf ters are obstacles to the chosen location, however, up to four 30° elbows may be connected directly to each other. Used in pairs, the elbows will return the chimney pipe to vertical after it has passed the obstacle. (In some instances floor joists can be cut and boxed in for reinfor
cement, but engineered roof trusses should never be cut.) The first offset must be at least 8’ (2.5 m) above the hearth. Elbows may not be used within the chase.
The WinterWarm Fireplace System is listed for use in the United States with seven 8” (203 mm) diameter chimney systems that have been listed to High Temper­ature (H.T.) Chimney Standard UL-103-1985 (2100°F).
-
23
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
89"
(2260mm)
A
B
B
C
Chimney Cap
Flashing
Firestops
Chimney Section
Anchor Plate
Front
Cabinet
Storm Collar
Roof Support Package
Wall Band
Offset
Firestop
cut-out panel on the WinterWarm shroud, and it should terminate at an outside air source. It may not terminate in a garage or basement, nor near another fuel-fed ap­pliance. The air inlet must be covered by a wire mesh screen (not included) with openings not larger than 1/4” x 1/4” (6 x 6 mm) to prevent rodents from entering from the outside. The optional duct kit includes a valve to close off incoming air when the WinterWarm is not in use.
Hearth Requirements
Unless the Fireplace System Cabinet will be installed on a completely noncombustible surface such as unpainted concrete over earth, a floor protector must be used in the installation for protection against radi­ated heat as well as protection against spilled coals and embers.
Floor protectors must extend at least 8” (203 mm) from the side of the door opening, making a total width of 40” (1016 mm). In addition, the floor protector must extend from the front door opening a minimum of 16” (410 mm) in the United States and 18”(460 mm) in Canada. (Fig. 31)
FP1094
Fig. 30 Typical chimney components used in the installation of a WinterWarm Fireplace System.
The listed chimneys and their manufacturers are: American Metal Products Ameri-Tec Model HS
Condensation Engineering Corp. Model HS
GSW Building Product Co. Model SC Metal Fab, Inc. Model TG Security Chimneys Ltd. Model ASHT Selkirk Metalbestos Model SSII Simpson Dura-Vent Model SDP
In the United States, do not use any other chimney system with the WinterWarm Fireplace System.
In Canada, the WinterWarm Fireplace System is listed for use with any 200 mm diameter prefabricated chim­ney tested and listed to the High Temperature (650°C) Chimney Standard, ULC S-629.
Guidelines for an Outside Air Supply
Outside air may be introduced to the WinterWarm at either of two available ports: at the lower left corner of the back of the cabinet (as viewed from the front), or at the lower left corner of the left side panel.
An outside air duct must be 3” (75 mm) in diameter, must be no longer than 20’ (6 m), and must not have more than three elbows. No part of the outside air duct (including the outside air inlet) may be higher than the
Flue Collar
Glass Door
FP1086
United States Canada
A. 16“ (406 mm) 18” (457 mm) B. 8” (203 mm) 8” (203 mm) C. 40” (1016 mm) 40” (1016 mm)
NOTE: Measuring from the door opening of the insert to the fire­place opening adds 3¹⁄₂” (90mm) to the total depth of the hearth protector.
Fig. 31 A floor protector must satisfy these requirements.
The approved construction of a floor protector calls for 24 gauge galvanized sheet metal covered with a listed floor protector material that is at least 7/16” (11 mm) thick (such as Wonderboard® or Durock®). The floor protector may be covered with a noncombustible deco­rative material if desired.
24
2000941
Custom-made floor protectors may be used if they offer the same protection as the approved floor protector described in the preceding paragraph, which in testing was found to have a standard K value of 0.84. Custom­built floor protectors must have a K value equal to, or less than, 0.84, meaning that heat will transfer at the same rate or more slowly than the tested standard.
To calculate the thickness required for an alternate ma­terial to result in a K value of 0.84, first determine the alternate material’s K factor. This information should be available from your local building supply yard. Then, calculate the following formula:
(K factor of alternate material)
(K factor of Wonderboard)
(Thickness of Wonderboard
X =
required)
(Required thickness of alternate material)
Let’s use brick as an example, since it is a commonly used hearth material. Its K factor is 5.0.
(5.0)
(0.84)
X (7/16” [11 mm]) = 2.6” (65 mm)
That is, when using brick for the hearth extension, the brick must be a minimum of 2.6” (65 mm) thick.
Once you know the K factor of a given material, you can use this same formula to calculate its required thickness for approved hearth protection.
Flush with the Floor or Laid Over It?
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
Over-laid Floor Protector
24ga. Galva­nized Sheet Metal
Finished Floor
Sub-floor
Plywood Shim
Fig. 32 The components of a raised hearth. The floor protec­tor is placed over the finished floor and extends completely under the ventilated plinth.
Inlaid Floor
Protector
24ga. Galva­nized Sheet Metal
Finished Floor
Ventilated Plinth
Spark Protector Strip
Cabinet Base
FP1109
Ventilated Plinth
Spark Protector Strip
Cabinet Base
Generally, it is easier to lay floor protectors over the fin­ished floor in existing homes. In new construction, flush installations are a popular alternative.
When placed over a finished floor, the floor protector extends completely under the ventilated plinth. (Fig.
32) The cabinet is elevated by an amount equal to the thickness of the floor protector so that the plinth and cabinet are at the same level. This is necessary for a proper fit between the WinterWarm front and the plinth. If you raise the cabinet more than 1” (25 mm), a corre­sponding increase in the height of the framed chase is required to retain adequate clearance.
When the floor protector is installed flush, the Winter­Warm cabinet rests on plywood shimming that brings it level with the finished floor. (Fig. 33)
Whichever method you choose, the floor protector must satisfy the requirements outlined above, and the 3” x 38” (76 x 965 mm) sheet metal spark protector strip (included) must be laid under the junction of the cabinet and the ventilated plinth.
Sub-floor
Plywood Shim
Fig. 33 The components of a flush hearth. The floor protector is inlaid flush with the finished floor.
FP1110
Important Reminders:
1. INSTALL ONLY AS ILLUSTRATED.
2. Elevating the cabinet requires a corresponding in
crease in the height of the chase to retain adequate clearances. Refer to the chase specifications on Page 20 and double-check that all clearances will be satisfied.
3. The air inlet through the ventilated plinth must not be
blocked.
4. A 3” x 38” (76 mm x 965 mm) strip of sheet metal
(included in your Fireplace System) must be placed as a spark protector painted-side up underneath the joint between the front of the cabinet and the venti­lated plinth.
-
2000941
25
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
37³⁄₈"
(949mm)
40³⁄₈" (1025mm)
29"
(737mm)
33" (845mm)
33"
(845mm)
35" (895mm)
Electrical Requirements
The WinterWarm Cabinet has a removable junction box located on the bottom front corner of the left side. This enables the wiring to be completed before the cabinet is installed if desired.
The junction box houses two receptacles, one for the WinterWarm column fans and the other for the optional cabinet blower. The cabinet blower is especially recom­mended when the WinterWarm will be installed in a confined area that requires additional heat circulation. A 115V, 15 or 20A electric service line is required. If in­stalling the optional cabinet blower, decide on the loca­tion for the blower control switch and mount a standard single-switch box to the chase framing.
Customizing the Finished Appearance
The Trim Panels supplied with the WinterWarm System fasten the cabinet to the chase framing and give a fin­ished appearance to the gap between the WinterWarm and the cabinet. They also provide a noncombustible transition surface to join with the combustible wall finish material, which must not extend inside the combustible limits.
The trim panels may be used without additional facing material, or with a surface to complement a specific decor.
Many attractive, noncombustible finish materials can be applied over the trim panels, including veneer brick, tile, stone and plaster. The limitations are:
The materials must be noncombustible.
Their maximum thickness, including noncombustible
backing and adhesive, should not exceed 13/16” (20 mm).
Combustible edge molding must not protrude into
the room more than 2” (51 mm) from the panel sur­face.
To allow insertion of the fire box, the opening must
be at least 33¹⁄₄" (845 mm) wide, and 29" (737 mm) high. To ensure coverage of the trim inner edges by the installed WinterWarm fire chamber, the opening must be not more than 35¹⁄₄" (895 mm) wide, and 33¹⁄₄" (845 mm) high. Figure 25 demonstrates these
dimensions.
Combustible Limits
Notch for Power Cord
FP1111
Fig. 34 Keep combustible wall finish materials outside these limits.
FP1112
Fig. 25 The fireplace opening must conceal the inner edges of the trim as well as accomodate the insert.
Plaster. A finish skim coat of plaster may be applied
over tile backer board or Wonderboard®, or over expanded metal lath and a scratch coat.
Stone. Marble, granite, soapstone, slate, or other
cut stone may be used. (Fig. 38) Stone may be ce-
WinterWarm
Trim Piece
“J” Bead
Cabinet
Choosing a Facing Material
A variety of alternative facing materials can be used to enhance the fireplace. Bear in mind, however, that the total maximum thickness of any trim material, including backing materials and adhesive is 13/16”. Here are a few possibilities: (Refer to Figures 34-39 for detail.)
Basic. The trim pieces, painted as desired, but other-
wise unadorned.
26
FP1113
Fig. 36 Top view of basic metal trim.
2000941
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
Finish Coat
Backer Board or Metal Lath
Fig. 37 Top view of plaster flush-finished trim.
mented directly to the trim panels, or over noncom­bustible backing to shim it out relative to the finished wall surface. Be sure the height of the side pieces is between 29” (740 mm) and 33¹⁄₄" (845 mm), and that the thickness of backing, adhesive, and stone combined is not more than 13/16" (20 mm).
Tile. There are many tile options from which to
choose. Here is one method of determining a satis­factory arrangement:
Total thickness less than 13/16” (20mm)
Observe Combustible Limits
FP1114
it is entirely permissible to extend noncombustible facing materials beyond those limits to achieve a particular decorative effect.
5. Despite the most careful planning and the latitude provided by the maximum and minimum opening dimensions, it still may be necessary to cut some tiles to achieve a balanced appearance. Your tile supplier or local tool rental outlet should be able to supply the necessary equipment and explain how to use it properly.
Consult your Vermont Castings dealer for advice and suggestions for this process.
Observe combustible limits 2” (51mm) maximum
Fig. 39 Top view of tile and wooden (combustible) trim in­stalled over backer board.
Tile
Backer Board
FP1117
FP1115
Fig. 38 Top view of stone facing material and wooden (com­bustible) trim cemented directly to a noncombustible backing. The trim must protrude no more than 2” (51mm).
1. Draw the maximum and minimum fireplace open­ing dimensions on a large sheet of cardboard.
2. Place it on the floor and experiment with laying the tiles around the opening, varying within the limits to determine the best arrangement.
3. Trace and cut out a silhouette of the insert. Lay it over the tiles to show how the insert will cover the tiles when it is installed.
4. On another large piece of cardboard, cut an opening to represent the limits for combustible material, and position that on top of the tile lay­out. Keep in mind that while combustible material must not be brought inside the combustible limits,
Use the Right Adhesives
The adhesive must be suitable to the chosen mate­rial and have a temperature rating of at least 400°F (204°C). High temperature silicone is an example.
Maintain a Safe Clearance to the Mantel
The clearance to the mantel and/or top trim must be at least 43” (1090mm), measured from the finished hearth surface. This clearance cannot be reduced by adding shields.
2000941
27
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
2" (50mm)
Prepare and Install WinterWarm Cabinet
1. Unpack the carton.
2. Install the flex connector. Install the flex connector
and attached flue flange to the underside of the cabinet top using eight #10-1/2” hex head sheet metal screws. The connector should point forward with the long axis of the oval running from side to side. (Fig. 40)
Anchor Plate
Flexible Chimney Connector
20° Offset Piece
Flue Collar
FP1118
Fig. 40 Proper position of the chimney connector, offset slip piece and anchor plate.
3. Mark and drill the anchor plate. Fit the chimney system anchor plate appropriate to your chosen pre­fabricated chimney over the flue outlet at the top of the cabinet and mark the attaching hole centers; remove the anchor plate and drill the fastener holes. (Fig. 41) Do not install the plate at this time.
Convection Air Outlets
4. Install the spark protector strip. To install the 3” x 38” (76mm x 965mm) spark protector strip, first draw a line on the hearth parallel and 2” (51mm) in front of the chase opening. Center the spark protector strip in the chase opening, with the outside edge on the line. Nail or screw the strip down, painted side up, so that the fastener heads are flush with the surface of the spark protector strip. (Fig. 42)
Chase
FP1120
Fig. 42 Install spark protector.
Spark Protector
5. Attach the trim pieces to the cabinet. (Fig. 43) The parts supplied for this procedure include 16 sheet metal screws and one each of the following: an up­per trim panel, a left trim panel and a right trim panel. You will also need an electric drill equipped with a 1/8” (3mm) bit and a 5/16” (8mm) head driver, and a felt tip pen for marking.
a. Align the 5 holes in the left trim panel with the cor-
responding holes in the left edge of the fireplace opening on the cabinet. The notch in the flange should align with the notch in the cabinet front, ap­proximately 4” (102mm) from the bottom.
b. With the electric drill and the hex head driver, secure
the trim panel using 5 of the hex head sheet metal screws provided.
c. Repeat this procedure to install the right panel.
d. Position the upper trim panel on top of the side pan-
els and centered on the face of the cabinet.
e. With the felt tip pen, mark through the 3 holes on
each flange of the upper trim panel on the cabinet, and drill 1/8” (3mm) holes. Secure the panel to the cabinet with 6 sheet metal screws.
Flue Opening
FP1119
Fig. 41 The anchor plate mounts on top of the cabinet and secures the chimney to the chimney connector.
Front
Anchor Plate
28
2000941
37³⁄₈"
(950mm)
40³⁄₈" (1026mm)
Cabinet
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
In addition, combustible edge molding must not pro­trude into the room more than 2” (51mm) from the panel surface.
Combustible Limits
Notch
Base
Fig. 43 The trim panels fasten the cabinet to the chase fram­ing and give the installation a finished appearance.
FP1121
6. Move the cabinet into the chase and fasten the trim panels to the chase framing.
NOTE: The chase floor must be the same height as the
hearth and must provide uninterrupted support. Push the cabinet carefully into the chase opening until the ends of the upper trim panel and the outer edges of the side panels rest against the studs forming the front of the chase. IMPORTANT: If the cabinet does not slide easily into position, DO NOT force it; doing so could damage the “standoffs” that ensure adequate clearance from combustibles. Instead, double-check your framed chase dimensions before proceeding to make sure you have allowed enough clearance.
WARNING: DO NOT PACK REQUIRED AIR SPACES WITH INSULATION OR OTHER MATERIALS.
a. Attach the upper trim panel. Refer to the combustible
limits illustration and the required dimensions, and locate one hole through each end of the upper panel into the studding behind. Make sure the holes are located outside the combustible limits where they will be hidden by wall covering or additional facing material. Drill the holes, check carefully for square one last time, and secure the panels with drywall screws driven home to make flush with surface.
b. Attach the side panels. Drill 2 holes in each side
panel, also outside the combustible limit, and secure the panels to the studding with additional drywall screws.
NOTE: Drywall or other combustible wall covering ap­plied to overlap the outer edge of the trim panels MUST NOT extend inside the combustible limits. These limits also apply to any combustible edge molding used to trim the raw edge of the drywall.
Notch for Power Cord
FP1122
Fig. 44 Make sure you secure the ends of the upper trim panels to studding located outside the combustible limits.
c. After the cabinet has been installed to its proper
depth, check all standoffs once again for proper clearance. Screw the cabinet to the floor through the eight drilled holes with eight of the #10 Phillips pan head sheet metal screws provided.
d. Connect the electric service cable to the cabinet’s
junction box if the wiring has not previously been completed. (NOTE: Since the cabinet’s junction box is removable, the wiring can be done outside the cabinet either before the cabinet arrives or after it has been installed.)
Remove the cover plate from the junction box in the cabinet. Pull the electric service cable (and the switch cable if installing the optional Cabinet Convection Blower Kit) into the cabinet junction box and wire the junction box as shown in the illustration below.
Figure 45 shows the required wiring for an installation using the optional cabinet convection blower kit. If your installation does not use the optional blower, ONLY the upper receptacle will be live.
Secure and tighten the strain relief.
e. Install the required chimney anchor plate to the top of the cabinet. Use a 1/8” (4mm) bead of gasket cement to seal the flange to the cabinet. Install the chimney according to the manufacturer’s instructions; follow the instructions exactly.
7. Install the air ducts.
Before installing the air duct boxes, you may wish to paint the inner surfaces with high temperature stove paint (or other high temperature paint) to reduce the glare from reflected light.
2000941
29
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
12" (300mm)
Min.
To switch for optional cabi­net blower
Ground
Service Cable
Duct Box
Duct Box
Ducting
Duct work may not be routed below cabinet level
Cabinet
Lower receptacle for cabinet blower power cord only
Electrical bridge removed
Fig. 45 Wiring for an installation using the optional cabinet convection blower kit. When the kit is not used, only the upper receptacle is live.
Upper Recep­tacle for Insert Firebox Fan
Electrical Bridge
FP1123/24
Install the two air duct boxes in their framed openings. (Fig. 46)
If desired, paint the inner surface of each air duct tube for about 6” (152mm) to eliminate reflected glare; attach this end to the air duct box flange.
Cut and fit the air duct tubing between the air duct boxes and the top of the cabinet. NOTE: The duct­ing used to connect the duct outlets on the enclosure cabinet to the remote duct boxes is Class O/Class I. Use no other class of ducting for this application. In certain areas, local building codes may prohibit the use of flexible ducting in enclosed spaces. In such cases it is acceptable to use solid cutting that meets local code requirements.
Cut the tubing a few inches too long with a serrated kitchen knife - it can be compressed during installation. The duct tubing must fit onto both the duct box and the cabinet flanges the full length of the flanges 2” (51mm)­all the way around.
Secure each end of the ducting to the appropriate flange with three of the sheet metal screws provided.
30
FP1125
Fig. 46 In addition to installation on the front, duct boxes may be mounted on the sides of the chase or vented into adjacent rooms, but in no case below the top of the cabinet.
Base
Trim Panel
Holes for the screws must be drilled first around the perimeter through both the duct tubing and the flange with a 1/8” (3mm) drill bit. Space the holes as evenly as possible around the flange.
8. Install the elevated base. Slide the base into the cabinet until it contacts the rear wall.
9. Install the optional cabinet convection blower kit. The blower kit is an integrated unit housed in a metal shell. ON the front side there is a flange perpendicular to the housing. When properly installed, this flange rests on the elevated platform and is fastened to it with screws.
The back side of the blower housing has a flange that rises parallel to the back side panel. This flange is fas­tened with screws to the rear panel of the cabinet.
The power cord is routed to the left where it can be con nected to the lower receptacle of the cabinet junction box.
10. Finish the wall surface surrounding the chase.
Cover the room’s wall area surrounding the chase with a material of your choice, but carefully observe the noncombustible limits as described in Step 6b - drywall or other combustible wall covering applied to overlap the outer edge of the trim panels must not extend inside the combustible limits. These limits also apply to any combustible edge molding used to trim the raw edge of the drywall.
In addition, combustible edge molding must not pro­trude into the room more than 2” (51mm) from the panel surface.
2000941
-
Optional Blower
Elevated Base
Junction Box
Fig. 47 Slide the elevated base platform into the cabinet until it contacts the back panel.
FP1126
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
Use drywall screws to fasten the wall covering to the metal standoff and drywall stops at the cabinet. Drill pilot holes through the wall covering material and one thickness of the sheet metal with a #40 (.098”) drill bit. Tape and fill holes and/or seams and decorate your chase wall at this time.
11. Install the vent grilles.
the duct box openings, and mark for the four screw holes in each. Using a 5/32” (4mm) bit, drill through the drywall and duct box flanges, and install the grilles with the slot head black oxide screws.
Once the vent grilles have been installed, you are ready to complete the installation by installing the fire cham ber and the front.
Position the cast grilles over
-
Flange attaches to cabinet rear wall
Flange attaches to base
Convectiion Blower Power Cord
Elevated Base
Fig. 48 The cabinet convection blower in place behind the base.
Cabinet Convection Blower Housing
FP1127
2000941
31
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
Section V: Completing the WinterWarm Installation
Prepare and Install the
WinterWarm Firechamber
1. Uncrate the WinterWarm Fire Chamber. Uncrate
the WinterWarm Firechamber and place it mounted on its shipping pallet about 24” (610mm) in front of its final destination — a masonry fireplace if you’re installing the Fireplace Insert, or the cabinet if you’re installing it as a part of the Fireplace System. (If the pallet height does not place the Fire Chamber slightly above the level of the cabinet’s elevated platform in a Fireplace System installation, the pallet itself must be raised.)
The WinterWarm firechamber is shipped with the reversible flue collar in the rearmost position. The flue collar MUST be in this position for use in the Fireplace System.
DO NOT REVERSE THE FLUE COLLAR ON THE FIRE CHAMBER IF YOU ARE INSTALLING IT INTO THE CABINET OF THE WINTERWARM FIREPLACE SYSTEM.
Locate the damper control handle in the parts bag on top of the firechamber — it’s the biggest of the three rods at 3/8” (9mm) — and screw it into place (refer to Page 3, Fig. 27). Lift up on the handle and move it to the left to open the damper. Open the fuel loading door. NOTE: The door will not open unless the damper is open.
Expose the levelling bolts (and lighten the Fire Cham­ber for easier handling) by removing the load door, the front grate bars, the ash grate, the ash pan, and the ash door. (Fig. 49)
Front Grate Bar
Ash Grate
Ash Pan
Ash Door
2. Install the Levelling Bolts. Remove the two 5/16” (8mm) lag bolts that secure the WinterWarm to the pal let. Slide the WinterWarm forward on the pallet until the front levelling screw holes are accessible; screw in the missing front levelling screws (located in the finish bag). All four levelling screws should be positioned so they do not protrude below the plane of the shroud bottom.
3. Install an Optional Probe Thermometer. The WinterWarm is designed to accept a catalytic probe that monitors the temperature in the secondary combustion chamber. Your dealer can provide details on the probes that are available.
If you have purchased a probe, install it at this time. Remove the twelve hex head sheet metal screws that secure the WinterWarm shroud to its bottom panel and the two 1/4-20 hex head cap screws on the flue collar.
Remove the probe plug from the upper center of the cast WinterWarm back. Select a drill bit correspond­ing to the size of the probe you have purchased; spin the drill bit gently by hand through the exposed refrac­tory material. Insert the probe carefully into the hole all the way to the probe’s end. Route the probe lead right or left, but on top of the rib cast into the WinterWarm side, until the lead protrudes out the front. Replace and refasten the shroud and the flue collar.
4. Install the Air Box of the Outside Air Kit. The Outside Air Kit may be used with either the WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or the WinterWarm Fireplace System, and introduces outside air to the fire chamber for com­bustion. Outside air for combustion is especially desir­able in some modern, super-insulated homes that have little air infiltration.
The kit consists of an air box, a 3” x 24” (76 x 610mm) air tube for Fireplace System installations, and a flange for connecting the pipe to the cabinet. The air box mounts on the left side of the fire chamber, and may be vented either from the rear or from the side.
IMPORTANT: When using the Outside Air Kit in a ma­sonry fireplace installation, modifications to the fireplace may be necessary. Be sure to meet with your local building code inspector before beginning the installation to determine whether your plans meet code require­ments. Contact your local Vermont Castings’ Authorized Dealer for advice.
Adhere to the following guidelines when installing the outside air kit:
-
Door
Fig. 49 Expose the levelling bolts by removing these parts.
32
FP1128
Do not terminate the duct in a garage, attic, base-
ment, or near another fuel-fed appliance.
No portion of the outside air duct may be higher than
the primary air inlet of the firechamber.
2000941
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
The outside air duct’s inlet must be lower than the
primary air inlet of the firebox, to prevent air infiltration.
The air inlet must be covered by a wire mesh screen
with openings not larger than 1/4” x 1/4” (6 x 6mm) to prevent rodents entering from the outside. a. With the WinterWarm fire chamber on its shipping pallet in front of either the fireplace or the installed Fireplace System Cabinet, remove the four (4) screws holding the outside air cover plate to the left side of the WinterWarm shroud. You may discard the cover plate, but save the four screws.
b. (Fireplace System only) Remove from the cabinet the cover plates over the air supply port you will be us­ing; leave the other port sealed.
There is an inner and an outer plate for each port, each held in place by four sheet metal screws. The rear port is located on the lower left section of the cabinet’s rear panel, while the side port is on the left panel of the cabi­net. Cut the insulation out of the uncovered hole with a sharp utility knife. You may discard the plates, but save the screws.
c. The outside air duct is shipped with a cover plate over its access port for side venting. If your installation will be side venting, remove the cover plate from the side of the air duct and re-fasten it over the rear-venting access port. (Fig. 50)
e. Loosely fasten the air duct to the shroud with two screws (one upper front and one lower rear). Place a level on the Outside Air Duct and level it before tighten­ing these two screws.
f. Mark on the shroud the locations where you will drill the four remaining holes to fasten the Outside Air Duct (two upper and two lower holes). Remove the duct from the shroud and drill holes in the shroud with a 1/8” (3 mm) drill bit. Install the Outside Air Duct on the shroud using a total of eight screws. Check the level of the Duct once more before tightening the screws.
5. Move the Fire Chamber all but a few inches into its installed position.
FIREPLACE SYSTEM ONLY: Push the Fire Chamber into the cabinet, leaving about 2”-3” (51 - 76mm) between the upper shroud flange and the front face of the cabinet. Remove the pallet.
6. Connect the Outside Air Duct to the Air Box.
FIREPLACE SYSTEM ONLY:
After final installation of the WinterWarm into the cabi­net, slide the outside air duct into the 4” (102mm) diam­eter access port either in the rear or on the side of the cabinet (depending on your preferred location for the outside air delivery system), orienting the duct parallel to the floor. (Fig. 51) Continue to insert the duct until its crimped end plugs into the corresponding port in either the rear or the side of the air box. Attach the air duct flange to either the rear or the side of the cabinet with the four remaining screws.
Complete the outside air adapter installation by secur­ing the flange to the pipe. Drill 1/8” (3mm) holes in the pipe through at least two of the four flange holes and secure with sheet metal screws.
Air Box
Flange
3” (75mm) Air Tube
Fig. 50 The outside air duct box may be vented to the rear, as shown here, or from the side.
Side-vent Cover Plate
KT227
d. Position the Outside Air Duct against the left side of the shroud so that its control rod extends to the front. The rod must be passed throught the latticework panel when you install the front. (Refer to Page 32, Step 7)
2000941
Flue Collar
Shroud
Air Box
Air Tube
KT228
Fig. 51 The final connection of the outside air duct to the air box is made once the fire chamber is in its final position.
Flange
33
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
1
2
3
4
5
Prepare and Install the WinterWarm Front
Do not remove the WinterWarm Front from its ship­ping container until the directions indicate to do so. The installation of the front is much easier if you partially assemble some of the components before removing it from the container.
Refer to the Figure 52 for the location in the shipping container of the various parts. Also clear a “grab-space” nearby where you can keep handy the tools you’ll be using (Phillips-head screwdriver, 11/32” (9mm) wrench, 7/16” (11mm) wrench, 9/16” (14mm) wrench and utility knife) as well as the various parts you’ll be removing.
Top Grille
Spandrel
Steel­band Packing Strap
Fig. 52 The WinterWarm front and its related parts are shown here after three separate boxes containing the mantel and latticework panels have been removed. For easiest assembly and installation, follow the sequence of the directions exactly.
Winter­Warm Front
1. Open the Shipping Container.
securing the shipping container and then remove its top. Among the parts you’ll see in the box is the WinterWarm front (lying face down) a bubble-pack of parts, and boxes containing the mantel and latticework panels. To orient yourself for the following directions, stand so that the bubble pack is nearest your feet and the solid top cross-piece of the front (the “spandrel”) is farthest away.
2. Unpack the Mantel, Latticework Panels, and Air Dividers. Remove the large box on top containing the
mantel, and the two boxes beneath it containing the latticework panels, and set them aside. Also remove the two air dividers that are packed in the edge of the
carton next to the top of the front.
Air Dividers (Do not overlook them!)
Mantel End Cap
Electric Cable
Hardware Pack
Mantel End Cap
FP1130
Remove the straps
3. Loosen the Bolts in the Spandrel and the Top Grille. The solid top cross-piece of the front (the “span-
drel”) is attached to the column sides with four bolts, two per side. Also, the top grille of the front is secured to the spandrel with two bolts. These fasteners should be loosened (not removed) while installing the front so that it will be easier to align the sides. These bolts must be re-tightened once the sides are in their permanent position.
4. Remove the Packing Straps and Discard Them. These flat steel bars are secured by one bolt on each side to the base of the column. Once you have re­moved the bolts, lift the top of the WinterWarm front and drag it slightly forward until it rests on the edge of the shipping carton. This will create enough room in the carton to slide the packing straps off the bottom of the front column. The packing straps will not be used again and may be discarded.
5. Unpack the Remaining Parts.
Slice open the bubble pack with your utility knife and remove the electric cord, the hardware package, and the two mantel end caps.
Open the boxes containing the mantel and latticework panels and remove the contents. Set all of these items aside.
6. Empty the Contents of the Hardware Package onto your Grab Space.
7. Attach the Front to the Fire Chamber.
With assistance, lift the front into position against the Fire Chamber, starting with the left side. Move it behind the protruding load door hinge halves. Swing the right side into position.
It may be necessary to adjust one of the levelling screws to align the clevis of the front to the fire cham­ber.
Control Rod
Correct slot is 5th from bottom
KT226
Fig. 53 To find the correct space in the latticework panel for the outside air control rod, locate the second vertical row of “diamonds” from the left and count five spaces up from the bottom.
Latticework Panel
34
2000941
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
If you have installed the optional outside air kit, pass the control rod through the latticework at this time. (Fig.
53)
Seat the front against the Fire Chamber assembly, and attach with the six 1/4-20 X 3/4” (19mm) hex head cap screws and washers that are provided. There are two for each side and two for the top.
Make sure the front seats properly before tightening the cap screws; the edge of the front should be almost even with the side and top plates, protruding no more than 1/16” (2mm).
Tighten the left and right sides before tightening the top screws. Tighten the cap screws that attach the upper grille. NOTE: If the front has been installed too far for­ward, the door gasket may not make the required seal and the fire may be difficult to control.
Step 8. Attach the Rheostat Rod Linkages
Untape the rheostat linkage rod from the left side of the firechamber. Remove the nut from the threaded end. Insert the rod end into the drilled hole in the rheostat le­ver. The rheostat box is located on the inside of the left front column. Thread the rod nut back on and tighten. NOTE: The rheostat lever must be tilted towards the outside of the left column in order to attach the nut. After connecting the linkage, the lever must be tilted towards the inside of the column before installing the left column air divider. It remains in this inside position during operation. (Fig. 54)
9. Connect the Wiring.
The two-pronged cable for column fans and the four­pronged wireway cable connect to the metal wire boxes on each side of the front with snap connector plugs, two on each side. The power cord must be plugged in as well.
First expose the receptacle for the power cord by re­moving the metal plate on the wire box. It is secured by two Phillips pan head machine screws. Also remove the nylon cord set clamp from the top of the spacer on the left wire box, and lay it aside for completing this step.
NOTE: The power cord always connects to the wire box on the left side in Fireplace System installations. For Fireplace Insert installations, it may connect to the wire box on either the right side or the left.
Next, plug the power cord into the wire box receptacle. Secure the cord by slipping the nylon cord set-clamp over the cord and fastening it to the top of the spacer with a 1/2” (13mm) Phillips pan head machine screw. For Fireplace Insert installations that have the power cord connected to the right side, mount the nylon cord clamp and spacer on the right wire box rather than the left.
Connect the two-pronged column fans plug and the four-pronged wireway plug to the wire boxes on both the right and left sides. (Fig. 55)
2-Prong Fan Plug
Rheostat Rod Linkage
Rheostat Lever
Rheostat Rod Nut
Rheostat Box Shaft
Power Cord
4-Prong “Wireway” Plug
2-Prong Column Fan Plug
Spacer
FP1131
Fig. 54 The rheostat lever must be tilted first toward the out­side of the left column to attach the nut, and then tilted toward the inside of the column before installing the left column air divider.
Nylon Clamp
2000941
4-Prong Wire­way Plug
Fig. 55 The snap connectors only fit their respective sockets.
FP1132
Plug the power cord into its electric service receptacle, either a wall outlet in Fireplace Insert installations, or into the cabinet junction box in Fireplace System instal­lations. FIREPLACE SYSTEM NOTE: Remember, connect the power cord to the UPPER receptacle in the cabinet junction box. The lower receptacle will not be live unless you are using the optional Cabinet Convec­tion Blower Kit.
If you are unsure of how to make any of these connec­tions contact your local Vermont Castings’ Authorized Dealer.
35
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
10. Install and Adjust the Controls.
The rods that operate the WinterWarm’s primary air, fan, and damper should be installed before mounting the column capitals and mantel. Two of the rods are 1/4” (6mm) and are controls for the fan and the primary air. The third rod is 3/8” (9mm) and controls the damper. Install the rods by following this procedure: (Fig. 56)
Blind-Tapped Hole
Control Lever
Brass Knob
1/2” (13mm)
Through-Tapped Hole
L-Bracket
Fig. 56 Adjsut the controls so the primary air control rod, on the top, overhangs the fan control rod by 1/2” (13mm)
FP1133
Tighten the two hex nuts against the levers. The pri-
mary air and fan controls will be offset 1/2” (13mm) to allow for smooth adjustment.
11. Install the Air Divider.
Install the two vertical sheet metal air dividers which guide the incoming and outgoing convection air. (Fig. 57) They are not interchangeable: the curved flange goes downward and faces the firebox. The two punchouts go toward the front.
Angle the front edge into position in the notch at the top of the column, while guiding the curved flange at the bottom so that it slides in on top of the curved horizon­tal flange that is cast into the firebox side.
The top edge of the air
Fig. 57 Seat the entire length of the air divider in the notch between the bosses shown here as a dotted line.
Air Divider
FP1134
Check for proper position of the hex nuts on the
threaded rods. The larger hex nut on the 3/8” (9mm) diameter rod should be positioned all the way to the end of the thread on the longer of the two threaded ends. The two smaller hex nuts on the 1/4” (6mm) rods should be positioned as follows: One should be positioned as far up the thread as possible; the other should stop approximately 1/2” (13mm) from the end.
Install the fan control rod by inserting the 1/4” (6
mm) diameter rod with the nut all the way at the end of the thread into the bottom control lever on the WinterWarm’s left side. Install the rod all the way up to the nut.
Tighten the hex nut against the lever.
Thread the two remaining control rods into the re-
maining two control levers. The lever above the fan control accepts the remaining 1/4” (6mm) rod; this is the primary air control. The lever on the right side of the WinterWarm accepts the 3/8” (9mm) rod; this is
the damper control. When installing the damper rod, look from above at the damper linkage. Note that the linkage should be flexed towards the rear. Make sure the linkage is in this orien­tation. The damper will not operated properly with the linkage flexed to the front.
Cast Winter­Warm Flange
3. Push in Air Divider Flange
2. Adjust Bottom Here
Boss
Fig. 58 1. Seat entire length of air divider in notch. 2. Adjust the seated air divider so its bottom flange is just above cast flange of WinterWarm. 3. Push the opposite side of the air divider so it snaps into place.
Here
1. Seat Here
Notch
FP1135
divider must be flush with the top of the boss in the cast column, as shown in the circled area in Figure 58.
Push the rear edge in until the air divider is perpendicu­lar to the column.
Thread each rod into the lever until it reaches the nut.
36
2000941
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
12. Move the Entire Unit the final few inches into the Cabinet.
Move the WinterWarm the final few inches into the cabinet, making sure the surround panels are properly aligned. If you are using the CFM Corporation Flex Connector System, reach up into the flue collar area to grasp the Starter Piece and pull it down into the flue collar. Bend the retaining tabs 90° against the bottom of the flue collar.
13. Install the Latticework Panels.
The two panels are not interchangeable. Each is la­beled with a designating letter cast into the iron next to the tab — “L” for left and “R” for right. The corner cut­outs must be positioned on the back edge. The panels are anchored at the bottom by a single tab that is bolted on. (Fig. 59) At the top, the panels are retained by the overhang of the mantel.
Latticework Panel
15. (Fireplace Systems only) Install the Plinth.
The plinth assembly consists of a pre-assembled plinth center and front, two plinth end caps, two plinth connec­tors, and six hex head screws (1/4-20 x 1/2” (13mm).
Invert the plinth center and front assembly on a flat surface. Unpack the two end caps and invert them also, placing one at each end. Make sure the decorative fronts of the end caps are in line with the front of the plinth. (Fig. 60)
Place the stem end of the plinth connector on the plinth
Preassembled Plinth Center/ Front
Preassembled Plinth Center/ Rear
Plinth Connector
Hex Head Screws
Plinth End Cap
Corner Cut-out
Bolted-on Tab
Fig. 59 A single tab at the bottom anchors the latticework panel, while the top of the panel is held in place by the mantel overhang.
FP1136
Lower the panel and seat it on the base so the anchor tab locks behind the rib cast in the base plate. Secure it in place temporarily by holding it or with tape until the mantel is installed.
14. Install the Mantel.
Place the mantel flat side down on the floor. Lift the mantel slightly and slip the drilled and tapped ends of the column capitals under each end of the mantel. Align the two tapped holes in each capital with the two holes in each end of the mantel, and thread in two 3/4” (19mm) hex head cap screws and two washers. Do not tighten these cap screws with a wrench; leave them finger tight. Use care during this assembly process, especially with enamelled parts. Forcing the mantel or capitals into position may cause chipping or cracking.
Install the mantel and capital assembly by raising it into position and tilting it to the rear against the upper shroud flange, with the flange on the shroud in front of the back rib on the mantel. Push against the flange slightly before lowering the front edge of the assembly onto the upper trim piece.
FP1137
Fig. 60 Before attaching the end caps, make sure their decorative fronts line up with the front of the plinth.
with the connector hole centered over the tapped hole in the plinth. The other two holes in the plinth connec­tor should line up with the two tapped holes in the end caps. (If they do not line up, remove the plinth connec­tor and flip it over.)
Repeat this process for the other side. Attach the plinth connectors with the six (6) hex head cap screws pro­vided.
Set the assembled plinth in the upright position, in front of and centered on the WinterWarm. Adjust the levelling bolts on the bottom front of the fire chamber so that the plinth will fit, slide the plinth into its final position, and center it. Adjust the levelling bolts downward to lower the WinterWarm onto the plinth.
Step 16. Replace the Ashpan and Ash Door, Front Grate Bars, Bottom Grate and Load Door.
2000941
37
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
119
119
124
119
120
50
49
46
45
47
47
46
57
66
31
40
30
7
34
127
39
17
32
33
32
18
17
27
22
26
28
25
128
24
29
140
11
41
8
23
19a
21
19
104
57
96
98
97
102
99
88
13
88
56
99
101
81
103
105 36
90
92
94
93
89
94
67
68
69
65
140
125
59
6
3
59
12
5
54
36
12
1
111
113
112
75
105
14
106
54
7
34
34
15
40
57
2
76
2
73
85
66
2
62
2
63
72
71
34
34
79
135
33
133
60
61
60
37
55
35
38
126
38
53
52
52
53
51
57a 54
58
59
84
134
135
52
83
56
117
118
129
109
108
107
121 Assembled (120 + 117 + 124)
123
4
115
114
110
7
54
54
86
131
13
64
54
2
10
9
141
CFM Corporation reserves the right to make changes in design, materials, specifications, prices and discontinue colors and products at any time, without notice.
WinterWarm Large Insert
Model 2100
38
0941
2000941
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
WinterWarm Large Insert
Model 2100 (continued)
Item Description Part Number
1. Bottom Only 1301150
2. 5/16 Fiberglass Medium Density (sold by the foot) 1203588
3. 3/8-16 x 2” Hex Head Leveller Bolt 1201742
4. 1/4-20 x 5/8” Phillips Flat Head Screw 1200865
5. Left Fan Heat Shield 1301151
6. Right Fan Heat Shield 1301152
7. 1/4-20 x 1/2” Hex Head Cap Screw 1201338
8. 1/4-20 x 1/2” Phillips Round Head Screw 1200894
9. Ash Grate 1301256
10. Bar Grate 1301275
11. Left Side Firebox 1301280
12. Half Hinge, Body Upper 1604281
13. 1/4-20 x 1/2” Hex Head Leveller Bolt 1201347
14. Right Side Firebox 1301264
15. Damper Door Interlock 1301299
16. Interlock Door/Damper Wire 1601568
17. 1/4-20 x 1³⁄₄” Phillips Flat Head Screw Black 1200830 Primary Air Box Assembly (Includes Item #’s 7,8, and 18 thru 34) 5000343
18. Primary Air Box 1301281
19. Thermostat Assembly 5005470 19a. Friction Spring 1201846
20. Jump Ring 1201985
21. Thermostat Disc 1301269
22. 1/4-20 x 5/8” Phillips Round Head Screw 1200896
23. Washer, Flat 1/4 #304 SS .294 id x .63 od x .047 Thick 1202471
24. Ball Chain Fitting 1201972
25. #6 Nickel Ball Chain, 21 Balls, Attach Chain @ 19 Balls (sold by the foot) 1201960
26. Thermostat Valve 1301268
27. Thermostat Flap 1301265
28. 7/16 x 5/8” Cotter Pin 1203027
29. Thermostat Flat Wire 1604503
30. Thermostat Acutator 1301258
31. 1/4-20 x 1/4” Socket Set Screw 1200417
32. Bell Crank 1301263
33. Crank Pin 1600524
34. Damper Tab 1601488
35. Thermostat Control Arm 1301284
36. 1/4-20 Plain Hex Nut 1203210
37. 3/8-16 Threaded Should Bolt, 1/2 x 1¹⁄₄” Body 1201319
38. Washer, Flat 1/2 SAE 1202491
39. Lower Thermostat Wire Link 1604501
40. #8-32 Hex Top Lock Nut 1203275
41. Upper Thermostat Wire Link 1604502
42. 5/16” Hole Plug 1201899
43. Firebox Back 1301251
2000941
Item Description Part Number
44. Secondary Thermostat 1601489
45. 10-24 x 1/4” Phillips Pan Head Screw 1200980
46. Secondary Air Flap 1601490
47. Shim Ring, 18 Ga Nickel 1201986
48. Secondary Air Link 1601486
49. Secondary Air Coverplate 1604505
50. 1/4-20 x 3/8” Phillips Pan Head Screw 1200993
51. Firebox top 1301253
52. Control Shim 1604338
53. Control Spacer 1201781
54. Washer, Standard Flat 1/4 - Z .313 od x .742 od x .06 Thick 1202474
55. 1/4-20 x 1” Hex Head Cap Screw 1201326
56. Gasket, 1/2” Low Density Black (sold by the foot) 1203564
57. Tie Rod Set (includes 4 of 1601640 Tie Rods & 4 of 1203210 Plain Hex Nuts) 5007499
57a. 1/4-20 Top Lock Hex Nut 1203213
58. Flue Collar 1301276
59. 1/4-20 x 3/4” Hex Head Cap Screw 1201374
60. Refractory Assembly (Includes #1602511 Access Panel) 1602510
61. Catalyst (Old PN 1602505 in a carton) 30001152
62. Lower Fireback 1301252
63. Upper Fireback 1301260 Upper Fireback & Damper Assy (Includes Items #7, 34, 36, 63, 65, 69 to 72, 79 to 82) 5000044
64. 1/4-20 x 1” Hex Head Cap Screw - Black 1201376
65. 1/4-20 x 1¹⁄₂” Hex Head Cap Screw 1201386
66. 1/4-20 Nut Plate 1203105
67. Left Throat 1301296
68. Right Throat 1301297
69. Throat Clamp 1301298
70. 1/4-20 Square Nut 1203329
71. Damper 1301259
72. Gasket, 3/6” Low Density 6ND (sold by the foot) 1203589
73. Damper Operating Rod 1604522
74. Washer, Thick Flat .52 id x .875 od x .085 Thick 1202492
75. Damper Swing Arm 1301282
76. 3/16 x 1” Stainless Steel Damper Rod Pin 1201839
78. Washer, Flat 3/8 - Z .442 id x 1 od x .074 Thick 1202488
79. Damper Swing Arm Retainer 1301270
80. Washer, Narrow Flat 1/4 .275 id x .5 od x .063 Thick 1202475
81. 1/4-20 x 3/4” Socket Head Cap Screw 1200461
82. 1/4-20 x 1
83. Damper Actuator Link Stop 1604507
84. Damper Actuator Link 1301283
85. Damper Rod Retainer 1301271
86. Door Air Manifold 1301274 Door Assembly (Includes Item #’s 13, 56, 87 to 92, 94 to 99, 101, 102, 103, 105) 5006079
¹⁄₄” Socket Set Screw 1200446
39
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
WinterWarm Large Insert
Model 2100 (continued)
Item Description Part Number
87. Door 1301257
88. Half Hinge, Door (No pin) Upper 1604280
89. Glass Cassette (Approx. 22” x 13”) 5002617
90. Gasket, 3/16 Fiberglass 4ND Black 1203556
91. Glass Retainer, Lower 1601403
92. Glass Retainer, Upper (2 required) 1601409
94. 10-24 x 3/8” Phillips Pan Head Screw 1200985
95. Brass Trim, Top 1402504
96. Brass Trim, Left 1402505
97. Brass Trim, Upper Right 1402507
98. Brass Trim, Lower Right 1402508
99. 8-32 x 1/2” Phillips Flat Head Screw 1202041
101. 8-32 x 1 (Upper Brass Trim -Center Screw) 1202045
102. Handle Stub Assembly w/Shaft, Gold 5004273
103. Pawl Assembly Short Adjustment 30002362
104. 1/4-20 x 3/16” Socket Set Screw 1200415
105. 3/8-16 Top Lock Hex Jam Nut 1203290
106. Striker Plate 1301273
107. Ash Pan Assembly (Includes Item #’s 108, 109) 5005746
108. Ash Pan Only 1601025
109. Ash Pan Cover with Handle 1601027
110. Ash Pan Bracket 1601039
111. Ash Pan Swing Pin, 3/8” od 1600523
112. 3/8-16 Hex Jam Nut 1203157
113. Washer, Narrow Flat 3/8 1202560
¹⁄₄” Phillips Flat Had Screw
Item Description Part Number
114. Ash Pan Door Clamp 1301272
115. Decorative Ash Door 1301277
116. 1/4-20 x 5/8” Hex Head Cap Screw 1201372
117. Shroud Top 1402445
118. Shroud Flue Connector Plate 1403363
119. #10 x 1/2 Phillips Pan Head Sheet Metal Screw - Black 1202058
120. Shroud Sides and Back Assembly 1402450
121. Shroud Assembly (Includes Item #’s 117, 120, 124, 119) 5000043
123. Shroud Bottom 1402448
124. Outside Air Cover 1402453
125. Wireway Assembly 5002779
126. Rheostat Contol 1301255
127. Lower Rheostat Wire Link 1604511
128. Upper Rheostat Wire Link 1604512
129. Spark Screen (Inserted in Door after removing glass cassette) 1206343
131. Listing Label, UL, ULC, EPA, Safety N/A
133. Wire Handle 1/4” Diameter (Fans & Thermostat) 1604504
134. Wire Handle 3/8” Diameter (Damper) 1604514
135. Gold Ball for Wire Handles 1602470
140. Fan Assembly 5002771 Fan Mounting Bracket 1601244 Silicone Suspension Tubes
for Mounting Fans 1601245 Washer, Flat #10 SAE 1202423 8-32 Hex Nut 1203273 8-32 x 2” Round Head Slotted Screw - Z 1201243
141. Handle Package Fallaway 0004349
Shell Enamel Parts - WinterWarm Large Insert
Model 2100 Part Name Classic Sand Midnight Mantel 1301278 1321278 1341278
Left Cap 1301289 1321289 1341289 Right Cap 1301290 1321290 1341290 Outer Trim 1301303 1321303 1341303 Spandrell II 30001401 30001403 30001405 Column II 30001402 30001404 30001406
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2000941
WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
Appendix:Approved Chimney Components
Security Chimneys,
Ltd.
American Metal Products
Ameri-Tec Model HS
Condensation Engineering
Corp.
Vitroliner HS-2100
GSW Building Product Co.
Model SC
Metal Fab, Inc.
Model TG
Model ASHT
Selkirk Metalbestos
Model SSII
Simpson Dura-vent
Dura-Plus
Anchor/base plate
Starter
Chimney sections
Elbows
Firestops/shields
Storm collar
Caps
Wall band
Flashings
Supports
8HS-AP
NA
8HS-6
8HS-12
8HS-18
8HS-24
8HS-36
8HS-015
8HS-030
8HS-AIS
8HS-FSA
8SC
8HS-RES
8HS-SBA
8F
8FT
8HS-CSA
8HS-RSA
8H-SP
NA
8H-SCS36
8H-SCS24
8H-SCS18
8H-SCS12
8H-SCS6
8H-SEL15
8H-SEL30
8H-AJS
8H-RJS
8H-FJS
8H-WS
8H-CSC
8H-CRCA
8H-CGR
8H-CFF
8H-CFLC
8H-CFM
8H-CFH
8H-CFS
8H-SSL9
8H-SRL9
JSC 8 AP
NA
JSC 8 SA3
JSC 8 SA2
JSC 8 SA1
JSC 8 SE
JSC 8 AIS
JSC 8 FRS
JSC 8 FAIS
JSC 8 ASC
JSC 8 DRC
JSC 8 RC
JSC 8 WB
JSC 8 ATC
JSC 8 AAF
JSC 8 AF2
JSC 8 AF3
JSC 8 DCS
8TG AP
NA
8TG 36
8TG 24
8TG 18
8TG 12
8TG 6
8TG A15
8TG A30
8TG IS
8TG RSH
8TG FSA
8TG SC
8TG C
8TG RC
8TG WB
8TG F
8TG 15
8TG F24
8TG FT
8TG RS
8TG SB
8 SP
NA
8 L3
8 L2
8 L18
8 L1
8 L8
8 E15
8 E30
8 RSA
8 FC
8 CPR
8 CC
8 CPE
8BM
8F
8FPA
8FPB
8FA
8FB
8FBB
8ST
8S
8T-AP
NA
8T-36
8T-18
8T- 9
8T- 6
8T- 3
8T-EL15
8T-EL30
8T-AIS
8T-JS
8T-WS
8T-TCS
8T-SC
8T-CT
8T-WB
8T-TF
8T-AF6
8T-AF12
8T-AF24
8T-AF36
8T-RSP
8T-FSP
9201
9216
9206
9219
9214
9221/9221SS
9217/9217SS
9264
9266
9244
9946
9980A
9980B
9980C
9959
9284
9268/9268SS
9251
9249
9250
9281
9252
9262*
9260*
*Can only accept chimney above it, not below.
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WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
Appendix: Catalytic Combustor
In any chemical reaction, including the combustion process, there are certain conditions which must be met before the reaction can take place. For example, a reaction may require a certain temperature, or a certain concentration of the reactants (the combustion gases and oxygen), or a certain amount of time. Catalysts, though not changed themselves during the reaction, have the ability to act at a molecular level to change these requirements. In the secondary combustion chamber of the WinterWarm, the catalyst reduces the temperature at which secondary combustion can start from the 1000 - 1200°F (540 - 650°C) range to the 500
- 600°F (260 - 315°C) range, increasing efficiency, and reducing creosote and emissions.
The catalytic reaction, though advantageous, does have some limitations of its own. Primary among these is that the reactants (the gases) come into close physi­cal contact with the catalyst itself.
To ensure the necessary contact, the catalytic element in your WinterWarm is composed of a ceramic base in the shape of a honeycomb. On each of the honey­comb’s many surfaces a coating of the catalyst (usually a noble metal such as platinum or palladium) is applied. The large surface area exposed in this configuration ensures the combustion gases have the greatest oppor­tunity to come in contact with the catalyst.
Loss of catalytic activity will be apparent in several ways. First you may notice an increase in fuel con­sumption. Second, there will be a visible increase in the rate at which creosote builds up in your chim­ney connector system. You may also notice a heavy discharge of smoke from the chimney. There are a number of catalytic problems which can cause loss of activity:
Blockage
While the honeycomb pattern ensures good contact, it also increases the resistance to flow of the combustion gases, and, because of the many surfaces, provides more places for creosote and fly ash to deposit. It is important to follow the operating instructions in order to minimize these deposits, and to periodically inspect your catalyst for signs of blockage.
Masking and Poisoning
While the catalyst itself does not enter into the combus­tion process, it is possible for certain elements, such as lead and sulfur, to attach to the active sites on the surface of the honeycomb. Though the catalyst is still there, it is covered, or masked, by the contaminant, and cannot function. To avoid this situation, it is im­portant not to burn anything in your WinterWarm that is a source of these contaminants. Particularly avoid painted or treated wood, coal, household trash, col­ored papers, metal foils, or plastics. Chemical chimney cleaners may also contain harmful elements. The safest approach is to burn only untreated, natural wood.
Flame Impingement
The catalytic element is not designed for exposure to direct flame. If you continually overfire your Winter­Warm, the chemistry of the catalyst coating may be altered, inhibiting the combustion process.
Thermal degradation of the ceramic base may also oc­cur, causing the element to disintegrate. Stay within the
recommended guidelines of the Operation section.
Mechanical Damage
If the element is mishandled, damage may occur. Always treat the element carefully. Remember the cata­lyst is made of a ceramic material; treat it as you would fine china. Hairline cracks will not affect the perfor­mance of the catalyst, as long as the steel sleeve holds the element in the proper position.
Peeling
Peeling of the surface coat may occur if the catalytic element is frequently subjected to excessive tempera­tures. Follow the operating instructions carefully to avoid this type of damage.
Every Vermont Castings’ product is equipped with either a Corning “Long-Life”® or a Technical Glass Products “Honeycomb”®. The products are equivalent. If for any reason you must ship your catalytic element, remem­ber its fragile nature. Place the element in a plastic bag, and package it with a generous amount of shock absorbing material.
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2000941
Warranty
Limited 3 Year Warranty
CFM Corporation warrants that this woodburning stove will be free of defects in material and workmanship for a period of three years from the date you receive it, except that the catalyst, thermostat assembly, handles, glass door panels, cement, and gasketing shall be warranted as described below.
Products will repair or replace, at its option, any part found to be defective upon inspection by a CFM Corporation Authorized Dealer. The customer must return the defective part or the stove, with shipping prepaid, to the Authorized Deal er or pay for any Authorized Dealer in-home travel fees or ser­vice charges for in-home repair work. It is the dealer’s option whether the repair work will be done in the customer’s home or in the dealer’s shop. If, upon inspection, the damage is found to be the fault of the manufacturer, repairs will be authorized at no charge to the customer for parts and/or labor.
Any woodburning stove or part thereof that is repaired or replaced during the limited warranty period will be warranted under the terms of the limited warranty for a period not to exceed the remaining term of the original limited warranty or six (6) months, whichever is longer.
Limited 1 Year Warranty
The following parts of the woodburning stove are warranted to be free of defects in material and workmanship for a period of one year from the date you receive it: The thermostat assem bly, handles, glass door panels, cement, and gasketing. Any of these items found to be defective will be repaired or replaced at no charge, upon the return of the part with postage prepaid to a CFM Corporation Authorized Dealer.
Any part repaired or replaced during the limited warranty period will be warranted under the terms of the limited warranty for a period not to exceed the remaining term of the original limited warranty or six (6) months, whichever is longer.
Exclusions & Limitations
1. This warranty is transferable; however, proof of original
retail purchase is required.
2. This warranty does not cover misuse of the this stove. Misuse includes overfiring which will result if the stove is used in such a manner as to cause one or more of the plates to glow red. Overfiring can be identified later by warped plates and areas where the paint pigment has burned off. Overfiring in enamel fireplaces is identified by bubbling, cracking, chipping and discoloration of the porcelain enamel finish. CFM Corpora­tion offers no warranty on chipping of enamel surfaces. Inspect your woodburning stove prior to accepting it for any damage to the enamel.
3. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove as de­scribed in the Owner’s Guide, nor does it cover any stove which has been modified unless authorized by a CFM Corporation representative in writing. This warranty does not cover damage to the stove caused by burning salt saturated wood, chemically treated wood, or any fuel not recommended in the Owner’s Guide.
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WinterWarm Fireplace Insert or System
4. This warranty does not cover a stove repaired by some
one other than a CFM Corporation Authorized Dealer.
5. Damage to the unit while in transit is not covered by this warranty but is subject to a claim against the common carrier. Contact CFM Corporation Authorized Dealer from whom you purchased your stove or CFM Corporation if the purchase was direct. (Do not operate the stove as this may negate the ability to process the claim with the carrier.)
6. Claims are not valid where the installation does not con­form to local building and fire codes or, in their absence, to the recommendations in our Owner’s Guide.
7. The salt air environment of coastal areas, or a high-hu midity environment, can be corrosive to the porcelain enamel finish. These conditions can cause rusting of the cast iron beneath the porcelain enamel finish, which will cause the por­celain enamel finish to flake off. This warranty does not cover damage caused by a salt air or high-humidity environment.
8. CFM Corporation shall have no obligation to enhance or update any unit once manufactured.
IN NO EVENT SHALL CFM CORPORATION BE LIABLE FOR INCIDENTAL AND CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES. ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WAR RANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS, ARE LIM ITED TO THE DURATION OF THIS WRITTEN WARRANTY. THIS WARRANTY SUPERCEDES ALL OTHER ORAL OR WRITTEN WARRANTIES.
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitations of incidential and consequential damages or limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts, so the above limitations may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific rights and you may have other rights which vary from state to state.
How to Obtain Service
If a defect is noted within the warranty period, the customer should contact a CFM Corporation Authorized Dealer or CFM Corporation if the purchase was direct with the following infor­mation:
1. Name, address, and telephone number of the pur-
chaser.
2. Date of purchase.
3. Serial number from the label on the back.
4. Nature of the defect or damage.
5. Any relevant information or circumstances, e.g., instal­lation, mode of operation when defect was noted. A warranty claim will then start in process. CFM Corporation reserves the right to withhold final approval of a warranty claim pending a visual inspection of the defect by authorized repre­sentatives.
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2000941
43
CFM Corporation
2695 Meadowvale Blvd. • Mississauga, Ontario, Canada L5N 8A3
800-668-5323 • www.cfmcorp.com
© CFM Corporation
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