Veritas Elastica II User guide

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Elastica ll overlock machine
EN
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DEAR CUSTOMER
We congratulate you on your purchase of your sewing machine. You have bought a quality product which has been made with great care and, if serviced right, will serve you well for many years.
Before using it for the first time, we ask you to read the manual at hand carefully, paying special attention to the safety instructions. Persons who are not familiar with this manual must not use the appliance.
In this manual, you will find everything there is to know about possible applications of your sewing machine. Should any questions remain unanswered, we kindly ask you to turn to your dealer.
We wish you much pleasure and great sewing successes!
Questions concerning machine, service and customer care
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EN
INTENDED USE
Danger! Electric shock due to humidity
-
The sewing machine must only be stored and used in dry rooms.
-
Humidity and dampness may cause an electric shock.
Danger! Eye injuries due to a broken needle
-
Only soft, flexible textiles may be sewn.
-
The machine is not designed for sewing materials such as thick, hard or
inflexible leather, tarpaulins, canvas, etc.; the needle may break.
-
The needle can break if the material is not transported by the motor and is
instead pushed or held back by the user.
Danger! Needle-prick injuries if operated accidentally
-
The machine may only be used by careful adults.
-
Children and persons with restricted abilities may only use the machine after
thorough instruction and under constant supervision.
-
Never leave an operational machine in areas to which children have access.
-
The main switch must be turned off for all preparation or configuration tasks.
Danger! Risk of injury due to defects or modifications.
-
The machine must not be modified.
-
Repairs must be carried out by the technical service.
-
Damage, modifications, or the use of non-original accessories can lead to injuries.
-
Defective machines must no longer be used.
Danger! Unsuitable installation sites (workplaces) can result in accidents.
-
The machine must only be operated when on a stable surface.
-
Shaky, unstable or untidy workplaces can cause the machine to fall down or cause needle-prick injuries.
Danger! Persons without knowledge of these operating instructions may injure themselves or damage the sewing machine.
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Only use this sewing machine if you have a basic knowledge of how to use sewing machines.
Danger! Needle-prick injuries may occur if you do not pay attention.
-
Take time, ensure the workplace is tidy and guide the material calmly through the machine without using force.
Caution! This machine is designed for use in a private home.
The machine is not approved for professional or commercial use.
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
CAUTION–
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following. Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.
DANGER--To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1.
Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used
by or near children.
2.
This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons with reduced
physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved. Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children without supervision.
3.
Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only
attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
4.
Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if
it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination,repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
5.
Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of
the sewing machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
6.
Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
7.
Do not use outdoors.
8.
Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
9.
To disconnect, turn switch to the off (”O”) position, then remove plug from outlet.
10.
Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
11.
Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine
needle.
12.
Never sew with a damag ed needle plate as this can cause needle to break.
13.
Do not use bent needles.
14.
Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
15.
Switch the sewing machine off (”O”) when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as
threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc.
16.
Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
17.
Attention the following to avoid injury:
--switch off or unplug the appliance when leaving it unattended;
--unplug the appliance before carrying out maintenance.
This appliance complies with EMC Directive 2014/30/EU covering the electromagnetic compatibility.
Moving parts-To reduce risk of injury, switch off before servicing. Close cover before operating machine.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This product is for household use, or equivalent.
Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National legislation relating to electrical/ electronic products. If in doubt please contact your retailer for guidance.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
MODEL
Number of threads
2, 3 or 4 threads
Overedge stitch width (Max.)
7mm(left needle)
Needle
HA1×SP, HA ×1(130/705H)
Stitch length
1-5mm
Stitching speed
Up to 1100 stitches per minute
Dimensions
320 mm(W) ×280mm(D)×320mm(H)
Weight
9Kgs
1.
KNOWING YOUR MACHINE
Identification chart ..................................................................................................... 2
Accessories ........................................................................................................... 3
Setting up your machine .......................................................................................... 4
Preparation for threading ..................................................................................... 5-6
Lint tray, Cutting width gauge ..................................................................................... 7
Thread cutter, Changing presser feet .......................................................................... 7
Changing needle, Needle thread and fabric chart ........................................................ 8
2.
STARTING TO SEW
Threading your machine ..................................................................................... 9-11
Helpful hints ............................................................................................................ 12
Cutting needle thread ...............................................................................................
12
Testing stitch overlock stitches .............................................................................. 13
Setting chart ............................................................................................................ 14
Three-thread overlock with one needle ...................................................................... 15
Converting to two-thread use ...................................................................................... 15
Narrow and rolled hem, picot stitch ........................................................................... 16
Adjusting thread tensions ...................................................................................... 17
Adjusting stitch length, Adjusting overedge cutting width, Stitch finger(B) ................. 18
Differential feed .................................................................................................. 19-20
Foot pressure regulator ........................................................................................ 20
Sewing with extra heavyweight fabric or multiple layers of fabric ................................ 20
Basic techniques
Turning outside corners without cutting threads ........................................... 21
Turning curved edges, Removing stitches from sewn fabric............................. 21
Corded overlock ....................................................................................... 22
Decorative effects ........................................................................................ 23
Differential feed applications ..................................................................... 24
3.
CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE
Replacing moving cutter, Disengaging moving cutter ................................................. 25
Cleaning and oiling .................................................................................................. 26
4.
CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS ........................................................ 27
SPECIFICATION OF MACHINE
ELASTICA ll
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26
27
19 20
30
29
22
23
24
25
28
21
18
17
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
31
1. KNOWING YOUR MACHINE
IDENTIFICATION CHART
1.
Foot pressure regulator
2.
Thread cutter
3.
Presser foot lever
4.
LED lamp
5.
Needle plate
6.
Presser foot
7.
Overedge cutting width dial
8.
Working table
9.
Thread guide pole
10.
Left needle thread tension control
11.
Right needle thread tension control
12.
Upper Looper thread tension control
13.
Lower looper thread tension control
14.
Needle thread guides
15.
Two thread convertor instruction
2
16.
Threading chart
17.
Lint tray
18.
Foot control
19.
Release lever
20.
Foot release lever
21.
Spool disc
22.
Differential feed control dial
23.
Stitch length dial
24.
Hand wheel
25.
Plug connector socket
26.
Light and power switch
27.
Front cover
28.
Moving cutter
29.
Lower looper
30.
Upper looper
31.
Cord guide
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ACCESSORIES
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
5 4
6 3
2 1
1.
Two-thread convertor
2.
Stitch finger (B)
3.
Needle set(option)
4.
Brush(option)
5.
Screwdriver (small)
6.
Machine cover
7.
Screwdriver (large)
8.
Moving cutter
9.
Tweezers
10.
Spanner
11.
Thread net
12.
Spool disc
13.
Spool holder
14.
Accessory bag
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SETTING UP YOUR
Working table
Release lever
Front cover
Connector socket
Power/light switch
MACHINE
1.
Wipe off excess oil in the needle
plate and bed areas.
2.
FOOT CONTROL Push foot control plug into connector socket, and connect the power line plug into power supply outlet.
3.
POWER/LIGHT SWITCH Your machine will not operate unless the power/light switch is turned on. This same switch controls both machine power and sewing light. When leaving the machine unattended, or servicing the machine, remove the power line plug from supply outlet.
4
4.
OPENING FRONT COVER To open front cover, pull it to the right and down towards you.
5.
OPENING WORKING TABLE To open working table, pull the release lever towards you with your right hand, and lift the front of presser foot up with your left hand.
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PREPARATION FOR THREADING
Thread guide pole
Thread guide
THREAD GUIDE POLE
Pull up thread guide pole to the highest point until you hear it click. Place thread spools on pins and draw thread through thread guides on the pole from rear to front.
Thread guide of pole can hold hread spools on the spool stand by pulling down the pole as illustrated.
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SPOOL CAPS FOR DOMESTIC TYPE
Spool
Spool
Turn up
Net
Net
Thread comes off the top
Spool disc
Spool holder
Cone type thread
Spool cap
Domestic cotton reel
SPOOLS
SPOOL DISC AND SPOOL HOLDERS FOR CONE SPOOLS
For large cone spools use the rubber spool holders with the wide end at the top, and for small ones, use the same rubber spool holders but with the narrow end at the top.
6
SPOOL NETS
Polyester or bulky nylon threads become loose while unwinding. To keep consistent feeding of such threads, utilize spool net sleeving over the spool.
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LINT TRAY
Foot release lever
D
With the lint tray located in this position it will collect all your waste materials. After completion of work, remove the lint tray.
CUTTING WIDTH GAUGE
When using cutting width gauge, the fabric is cut down and sewn at same distance from the edge of fabric. Within the distance of the width adjusted.
THREAD CUTTER
Thread cutter is built in face cover. Draw materials to the rear and cut off excess thread with the thread cutter located on the bottom of face cover as shown.
CHANGING PRESSER FEET
Be sure needle is in the up position. Raise presser foot lever.
1.
Push foot release lever to remove the foot.
2.
Place the desired foot on the needle plate aligning needle holes.
3.
Lower the presser foot lever and push foot release lever so that the foot holder snaps on the foot.
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CHANGING NEEDLE
FABRIC
THREAD
NEEDLE
COTTON LINEN
Light weight: Organdy, Lawn, Gingham
Cotton No.100
Heavy weight: Oxford, Denim, Cotton Gabardine
Polyester No.60-50 Cotton No.60
Light weight: Tropical, Wool, Poplin
Polyester No.80 Cotton No.60
WOOL
Serge, Gabardine, Flannel
Polyester No.80-60 Cotton No.60
90(14)
for general sewing
Heavy weight: Velours, Camelhair, Astrakhan
Polyester No.60-50 Cotton No.60
SYNTHETIC FIBRE
Light weight: Georgette Crape, Voile, Satin
Polyester No.100-80 Cotton No.120-80
75(11)
for light weight fabrics
Heavy weight: Taffeta, Twills, Denim
Polyester No.60 Cotton No.60
Tricot
Polyester No.80-60 CottonNo.80-60
KNIT
Jersey
Polyester No.60-50 Cotton No.60
Wool
Polyester No.60-50 Bulk Nylon
Needle clamp screw
Flat side away from you
Raise needle bar to its highest point by turning hand wheel towards you, but leave pr esser foot down. Loosen needle clamp screw to remove the needle, and place new needle with Flat Side Away From you, into the needle bar as far as it will go, and tighten screw.
NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART
Use HA ×1 SP, HA ×1 (130/705H) Needles.
* Synthetic threads are recommended for ordinary overlocking. Polyester thread, for example, is very useful
for different types of fabric.
NOTE: Keep in mind that the lower and upper loopers will use about twice the amount of thread as the needles.
When purchasing thread for sewing, therefore, especially if it is an unusual colour, you should buy sufficient for your requirements.
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1
2
4
3
A
2. STARTING TO SEW
THREADING YOUR MACHINE
Wrong threading may cause skipped stitches, breaking threads, or other problems. Try to master the correct threading before moving on to test sewing. Threading must be carried out in the sequence of Lower Looper – Upper Looper – Needle. Open the front cover and the working table Raise needle to its highest point by turning hand wheel towards you, and raise the presser foot. Before re-threading lower looper, remove thread from needle eye first, then re-thread the lower looper. This will prevent tangling.
STEP 1 THREADING LOWER LOOPER
1.
Feed the thread through the thread guide as illustrated.
2.
Pull the lower thread through tension slot. Holding the thread with your left hand, pull down with right hand firmly.
3.
Draw the thread through thread guide as illustrated.
4.
Pass the thread through lower looper eye, and hook it around part A as indicated by the arrow. Leave about 4” (10cm) extra thread.
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1
2
4
3
STEP 2 THREADING UPPER LOOPER
1.
Feed the thread through the thread guide as illustrated.
2.
Pull the upper thread through the slot, holding the thread with your left hand.
3.
Draw the thread through the thread guide as illustrated.
4.
Pass the thread through wire thread guide and looper eye, leaving an excess length of about 4”(10 cm).
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1
2
3
4
STEP 3and4 THREADING NEEDLES
1.
Feed the thread through the thread guide as illustrated.
2.
Draw the needle threads through left-hand tension slot. Holding the thread with your left hand, pull down with right hand firmly.
3.
Draw the thread through the thread guide as illustrated.
4.
Thread the needles from front to back throug needle eye and pull the threads towards the back
passing along the right side of presser foot, leaving an extra length of about 4”(10cm).
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HELPFUL HINTS
3
2 1
REPLACING THREAD SPOOLS
When replacing thread spools, the following steps may be helpful for quick changeover.
1.
Cut off existing threads near the
spools. Tie the cut ends thread from new spools as illustrated (seamen's knot).
2.
Raise presser foot.
3.
Lower needle bar to its lowest
position by turning hand wheel away from you. Carefully pull the existing threads until the connecting knots pass through needle eye and looper eyes.
CUTTING NEEDLE THREAD
Frayed thread may make needle threading difficult.
Draw the thread passing under the thread cutter and turn hand wheel towards you to obtain clear cut end as illustrated.
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Fig.1
Fig.2
Fig.3
TESTING STITCH OVERLOCK STITCHES
After threading is completed, use a scrap of fabric that you plan to sew and test to sew in the following order.
1.
Gently pulling all the threads to the
left, lower the presser foot. Rotate the hand wheel towards you a few times to see if the lock stitches are properly formed.
2.
Start the machine at low speed and
feed in test fabric under the presser foot by slightly pushing it forward. (This can be done with the presser foot down on most fabrics except
bulky materials.) Guide the fabric gently as machine automatically feeds the material.
3.
Check thread tensions by test sewing
on spare fabric. (See page 17.)
4.
At fabric end, carry on running machine at low speed, gently pulling the fabric towards the back, until about 5 to 6 cm of extra lock stitches are produced without fabric.
5.
Cut thread by thread cutter in face
cover, or with scissors.
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SETTING CHART
14
Number of thread
4
3
3
2
Overedge cutting width dial
-6-
6
4-
- 5-
4
4-6
6
-6-
4-6
Needle to use
Left&Righ
Left
Right
Left
Right
Right
Left&Righ
Left
Right
Stitch finger
0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0
Two thread convertor
0 0 0 0
Left needle thread
-4- -4-
0-
-4-
0-
-4-
Tension! Right
needle thread
-4-
-4-
0-
-4- -4- -4- -4-
-5
control
Upper looper thread
-4- -4- -4-
-4 -4
-4- -4- -4-
Lower looper thread
-4- -4- -4-
7- 7-
0-
-4- -4-
0-
-4-
0-
1-
Stitch length control
2.5-3.5 2.5-3.5
3-5
2-2.5
*-R-
*-P-
2.5-3.5
2.5-3.5
2-3.5
1-2
Ref. NO.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
11
12
Flat seam
Narrow hem
Rolled hem
Picot stitch
Super stretch
Rolled hem
Reference page
17
23
16
15
1 5, 17
1
5,16,23 1
I
*
If the stitch length control of your machine does not have R or P, please set the tension control o
lower looper thread at 7-9 and stitch length dial at 1-2 (for roll hem) or 3-4 (for picot stitch)
Note:
The above settings of tension and overedge cutting width dial are for general guidance. A little
fine tuning will improve your stitching in many cases. Following advice helps you.
1.
Turn overedge cutting width dial (See page 18)
2.
Adjust needle tensions when you sew thin or thick material.
.
3.
Reduce the tension when you use thick thread.
4.
Incorrect tension setting causes stitch skipping. Adjust the tension setting.
5.
Tension setting will have problem when needle setting is incorrect.
Try test-sewing with a piece of fabric you are going to use and find the best settings.
Page 19
2
1
Fig.1
Fig. 4
THREE-THREAD OVERLOCK WITH ONE NEEDLE
Two-thread overlock convertor
2
Upper looser
1
Fig. 3
Fig. 2
By threading the LEFT needle only a width of 6 mm will be produced and by threading the RIGHT needle only a width of 3.8 mm will be produced.
CONVERTING TO TWO-THREAD USE
To convert to two thread use, first open the front cover and working table and raise needle to its highest point by turning hand wheel towards you. Remove the right needle and use the left needle.
Please keep the unused needle on the needle pad.
Pull out the convertor as shown in Fig.1.
Attach the two-thread convertor onto the upper looper as shown in Fig. 2, Fig.3. When
not using convertor, insert it deep and keep as illustrated in Fig.4.
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Fig.1
Cross section
2
1
Stitch finger(A)
NARROW AND ROLLED HEM, PICOT STITCH
Narrow overlock edge
Rolled edge
With Three Threads
With Three Threads
With Two Threads
Thread for needle
Polyester, Nylon, Silk No.50-100
Nylon No.100
Upper looper
Polyester, Nylon, Silk No.50-100
Bulk nylon (less stretchable)
Lower looper
Bulk nylon (less strechable)
Narrow and rolled edge is ideal for use on thin materials such as georgette crepe, crepe de chine, silk etc. Also, picot stitch can be produced particularly when sewing on fine 'scarflike' materials. In view of the nature of these hems, they are unsuitable for use on 'hard' or 'heavy' materials.
1.
Raise the presser foot.
2.
Open the front cover and working table.
3.
Remove the stitch finger from the needle plate by screw driver and keep it in the front cover as
illustrated (Model 320 only) or in the accessory bag.
4.
Set the machine according to page 14.
NOTE: 1. Please use following recommended thread for making ideal seams.
2. After finishing , reset the stitch finger in its place. Please ensure inserting it deep as illustrated in Fig 1.
RECOMMENDED THREAD
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Lower looper thread
Needle
Top side
thread
Under side
Fig.1
Just right
Decrease needle tension
Needle thread
Under side
Lower looper thread
Top side
Fig.2
Lower looper thread pulled to under side
Lower looper thread
Needle
Top side
thread
Under side
Increase needle thread tension
Fig.3
Needle thread pulled to top side
Under side
Left needle thread
Top side
Lower looper thread
Right needle thread
Upper looper thread
Fig.1
Just right
Increase Upper looper thread tension and/or decrease lower looper tension
Under side
Left needle thread
Top side
Lower looper thread
Fig.2
Upper looper thread pulled to top side
Upper looper thread
Right needle thread
Increase lower looper thread tension and/or decrease upper looper tension
Under side
Left needle thread
Top side
Lower looper thread
Upper looper thread
Right needle thread
Fig.3
Lower looper thread pulled to top side
Increase left needle thread tension and/or decrease either or both looper threads.
Under side
Top side
Left needle thread
Lower looper thread
Fig.4
Left needle thread loose and visible on under side of fabric.
Upper looper thread
Right needle thread
Increase right needle thread tension.
Under side
Top side
Left needle thread
Lower looper thread
Upper looper thread
Right needle thread
Fig.5
Right needle thread loose and visible on under side of fabric.
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS
Increase tension
Decrease tension
Turning tension dial to a higher number gives a tighter thread tension. Turning tension dial to a lower number gives a looser thread tension. The higher the number, the tighter the tension.
Test each thread tension on a scrap of the fabric you plan to use.
TWO-THREAD USE
FOUR-THREAD USE
17
Page 22
Cross section
2
1
Stitch finger(B)
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH
Fig.3
Fig.4
Fig.1 Fig.2
Overedge cutting width dial
Stitch length dial
Turn the stitch length dial until the required length is indicated. The higher the number, the longer the stitch. This dial can adjust the stitch length from 1 to 5 mm.
ADJUSTING OVEREDGE CUTTING WIDTH
Overedge cutting width can be adjusted from 4 to 7 mm by simply turning overedge cutting width dial according to the kind of fabric. It is set at standard width of 6 mm when delivered from the factory.
Turn it towards “5” if fabric edge curls while sewing.(
Fig.1)
Turn it toward “7” if loops hang off the edge. (Fig.2)
Stitch finger (B)
Loops may hang off the edge, when you sew with lightweight fabric using 3 threads (right needle only), and setting cutting width dial at 4-5(Fig.3). In such a case change the stitch finger(A) to (B) to get neat stitching(Fig.4)
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DIFFERENTIAL FEED
B
A
Differential feed dogs
Positive differential feed
Negative differential feed
The differential feed has two independent feed dogs, one front (A) and one rear (B). Each feed dog has an individual feed mechanism which enables the feeding of material at a different ratio.
POSITIVE DIFFERENTIAL FEED
When set for postitve differential Feed, the front feed dog (A) makes a longer stroke than the rear feed dog (B). This has the effect of accumulating material under the presser foot to offset the wavering on the fabric.
NEGATITVE DIFFEREN TIAL FEED
When set for negative differential Feed, the front feed dog (A) makes a shorter stroke than the rear feed dog (B). This has the effect of stretching material under the presser foot to offset the puckering on the fabric.
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EFFECT AND
APPLICATION
TYPE OF
FEEDING
SETTING
FEED RATIO
REAR: FRONT
Waver-free
seams,
Gathering
Positive
differential
feed
1-2
No differential
feed
Neutral feed
1
Pucker-free
seams
Negative
differential
feed
0.7-1
Differential feed
control dial
SETTING DIFFERENTIAL FEED
Loosen
screw
Tighten
Increase
Decrease
Set by simply turning the differential feed control dial in the direction desired referring to the chart below.
The adjustment can be made between 0.7 (negative effect) and 2 (Positive effect). These settings give the best ratio of feeding. For normal sewing, the dial should be set at 1. The dial can be reset even while sewing.
FOOT PRESSURE REGULATOR
Presser foot pressure has been correctly set at the factory, so you do not need to adjust it for most of ordinary sewing. If adjustment is necessary, turn the foot pressure regulator to higher number to increase or to lower number to decrease pressure.
SEWING WITH EXTRA HEAVYWEIGHT FABRIC OR MULTIPLE LAYERS OF FABRIC
A wide ranger of fabric can be overlocked on this machine, but it is recommended to tighten screw as illustrated, when sewing with extra heavyweight fabrics or mulitiple layers of fabric. Open working table for adjustment.
Loosen the screw when sewing with light to normal weight fabric or turning overedge cutting width dial, or otherwise fabric may not be well cut. The machine is set for normal weight fabrics from the factory.
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BASIC TECHNIQUES
Fig.1
Cut !
Fig.2
A
A
B
B
Fig.3
Fig.4
TURNING OUTSIDE CORNERS WITHOUT CUTTING THREADS
1.
When you reach the fabric edge, stop stitching
with the needle above the fabric.
2.
Raise the presser foot and gently pull on the
thread chain just enough to clear the stitch finger.
3.
Turn the fabric, lower the presser foot and
begin stitching in the new direction. Fig. 1.
NOTE: When overlocking and trimming at the
same time, cut the fabric along the new stitching line for about 3 cm, before turning the fabric. Fig. 2.
TURNING CURVED EDGES
For inside curves, guide fabric gently with trimming line of the fabric under the right front of the presser foot (or a little to the left), applying pressure at point A in the direction of the arrow with your left hand, and at the same time applying a little opposite pressure at point B with your right hand. Fig.3.
For outside curves place under the presser foot in a similar manner but applying the pressure in the opposite directions. Fig. 4.
REMOVING STITCHES FROM SEWN FABRIC
To remove stitches already sewn, snip off needle thread (s) at intervals and pull out looper threads.
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CORDED OVERLOCK
Fig.4
Fig.3
Fig.2
Fig.1
3
2
1
Corded overlock can be used to strengthen shoulder, sleeve or side seams when joining or making up knitted garments. As a decorative feature you can use knitting yarn of contrasting colours to further enhance your garment. Your machine is equipped with a presser foot which has been designed to feed your cord or yarn to the left of the safety stitch or to the right. Follow instructions as follows:
1.
Place a “filler” cord, such as a crochet cotton, gimp, wool, knitting yarn, or shirring elastic at the rear of the machine spool pin. Pass the cord through the cord guides (1) and (2) and then through the left needle thread guide (3). See Fig. 1.
2.
Insert the cord through either the front or rear hole (according to the operation, see diagrams Figures 2 and 3), in the presser foot and pass it under and to the rear of the foot.
3.
Place the material to be sewn as normal. Start at slow speed observing if cord is feeding correctly and increase speed as needed.
FOR JOINING SHOULDERS OR SLEEVES, pass the cord through the front hole, ensuring that it is fixed between the left and right needle threads as it is guided through the front hole. (Fig.2).
FOR JOINING SIDE SEAMS , pass the cord through the rear hole, ensuring it is positioned to the right needle thread. (Fig.3)
FOR DECORATIVE EFFECTS, you may pass contrasting colours either through the front or rear hole or if you desire, pass cord or yarn through each hole.
FOR MAKING WAVED HEM WITH GUT (Fig.4), pass the gut through the rear hole and start ROLLED HEM (See page 16).
This is used for the hem of skirt, etc.
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DECORATIVE EFFECTS
Fig.A
Fig.B
In addition to normal overlocking which is fully described in this instruction book, your machine can also be used for a number of decorative applications such as decorative top-stitching, butted seams ,pin-tucking or making lengths of decorative braid. See below.
Decorative top-stitching-using only two threads or using three threads (flat seam) Fold fabric
along the line to be top-stitched and sew over the folded edge, making sure not to cut into the fold. Fig. A. Unfold the fabric, pull the ends of the threads to the underside and press flat. The final appearance can be enhanced by using buttonhole twist or embroidery thread on the lower looper.
Butted seams-using only two threads or using three threads (flat seam)
Place two pieces of fabric wrong sides together and overlock along the edge. Unfold and press. By using different coloured fabrics and thread a pleasing 'patchwork' effect can be achieved.
Pin-tucking-using three threads
Fold fabric along a line to be pin-tucked and overlock sew along the folded edge, making sure hot to cut into the folded edge of the fabric. (See page 25). Pull ends of threads to underside and press.
Making decorative braid-using three threads
Overlock over a cord braid, holding it carefully with both hands, making sure not to cut the edge. (See page 25).
NOTE: *If you use blind hem foot(option),
decorative stitch is made easily.
**Reduce the upper looper ten sion when
you use thick thread.
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DIFFERENTIAL FEED APPLICATIONS
Pucker or waver-free seams
Puckering
Wavering
Gathering
Please refer to pages 19,0 DIFFERENTIAL FEED, Differential feed is designed to minimie puckering and wavering. It is also very effective for gathering.
1.
Puckering
Puckering tends to occur on woven or sheer fabrics. To obtain pucker-free seams, set the differential feed control dial at less than 1.
2.
Wavering
Wavering tends to occur on knitted or stretchable fabrics. To obtain waver-free seams, set the differential feed control dial at more than 1.
3.
Gathering
Differential feed makes gathering easier on lightweight fabric. Use it on waistlines, sleeve heads, sleeve bottoms and ruffles, etc. Set the differential feed control dial between 1.5 and 2 to obtain the best gathering effect for your use.
24
IMPORTANT
The exact adjustment depends on the thickness and elasticity of fabric. Even the stitch length can influence the setting. The longer the stitches, the more the fabric is contracted. Always do a test run with a piece of actual fabrics you use and find the best settings.
Page 29
3. CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE
Cutter release knob
Moving cutter
Screw
0.m5m
REPLACING MOVING CUTTER
Replace a moving cutter if it becomes blunt as follows. A spare cutter will be found in your accessories. NOTE: You should not need to replace fixed cutter, which is made of special hard alloy material. FIRST REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE SUPPLY SOCKET-OUTLET.
1.
Loosen screw and take out moving cutter.
2.
Close the working table. Lower cutter driving
arm to its lowest position by turning the hand
wheel towards you by hand. In this position,
set replacement cutter in position and secure
it with screw, ENSURING THAT THE EDGE
OF THE MOVING CUTTER IS
APPROXIMATELY 0.5 MM BELOW THE
SURFACE OF THE FIXED CUTTER.
DISENGAGING MOVING CUTTER
If you want to sew without cutting, open the working table and disengage the moving cutter by pushing the cutter release knob to the left and turning it towards you as illustrated. Ensure that fabric edge is not wider than overedge width selected or upper looper and needle can be damaged.
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Page 30
Brushing
Oil
CLEANING AND OILING
To keep the machine running smoothly, keep it clean and lubricated at all times. FIRST DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER SUPPLY BY REMOVING PLUG FROM SOCKET­OUTLET.
1.
Open the front cover and working table. Using the brush provided, remove dust and lint that have
2.
Apply a few drops of oil to the points indicated by arrows. ALWAYS USE A GOOD QUALITY SEWING MACHINE OIL.
accumulated.
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Page 31
4. CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS
PROBLEM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTION
Irregular Stitches
1.
Incorrect Thread Tension(s).
2.
Incorrect size Needle.
3.
Improper Threading.
4.
Pulling fabric.
5.
Loose Presser Foot.
1.
Reset thread tension (s).
2.
Choose correct size Needle for Thread and Fabric.
3.
Re-thread machine.
4.
Do not pull Fabric; guide it gently.
5.
Reset Presser Foot.
Breaking Needle
1.
Pulling fabric.
2.
Incorrect size Needle.
3.
Incorrect setting of Needle.
4.
Loose Presser Foot.
1.
Do not pull Fabric; guide it gently.
2.
Choose correct size Needle for Thread and Fabric.
3.
Reset Needle.
4.
Reset Presser Foot.
Puckering
1.
Incorrect Thread Tension (s).
2.
Bent or blunt Needle.
3.
Differential feed is set Incorrectly.
1.
Reset Thread Tension (s).
2.
Insert new Needle.
3.
Set it at less than 1.
Wavering
Differential feed is set Incorrectly.
Set it at 1 or at more than 1. For knitted fabrics.
Skipping Stitches
1.
Improper Threading.
2.
Incorrect size Needle.
3.
Bent or blunt Needle.
4.
Incorrect setting of Needle.
1.
Reset thread machine.
2.
Choose correct size Needle
for Thread and Fabric.
3.
Insert new Needle.
4.
Reset Needle.
Breaking Threads
1.
Improper Threading.
2.
Bent needle.
3.
Thread Tension (s) too tight.
4.
Incorrect setting of Needle.
5.
Thread Spool tangled.
6.
Thread Guide Pole not extended.
1.
Re-thread machine.
2.
Insert new Needle.
3.
Reset thread tension (s).
4.
Reset needle.
5.
Reset spool properly.
6.
Fully extend Guide Pole.
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Page 32
EN
Do not dispose of electrical appliances as unsorted municipal waste, use separate collection facilities. Contact your local government for information regarding the collection systems available.If electrical appliances are disposed of in landfills or dumps, hazardous substances can leak into the groundwater and get into the food chain, damaging your health and well- being.
ELECTRICAL CHARACTERISTIC DATA 220~240V 50Hz 111W
(Protection class II)
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