VAC Phi 220 User Manual

F
220
F
110/110
The VAC
Phi Two Twenty
Monophonic Beam
Power Amplifier
Phi 110/110 Stereo
Beam Power Amplifier
Operation & Maintenance Information
Valve Amplification Company
Manual issued 01/24/2004
Revised 07/02/2004
PLEASE READ CAREFULLY
Your Phi Beam Power amplifier is fitted with a unique output tube monitoring circuit. Rather than directly contacting the audio path, and thus contaminating the pure sound, the temperature of a small cathode resistance is sensed. The four bi-color LED’s on the front panel indicate the tubes’ conditions.
If the idle current of a KT88 output tube drops below nominal limits, the LED corresponding to that tube will light green. This indicates that either the bias setting for that tube should be adjusted, or the tube should be replaced at your convenience, but it is safe to continue operating the amplifier.
The exact idle current of each tube may be tested by means of the meter and the test switches located on the front panel. The associated bias control should be adjusted so that the needle points directly at the dot in the center of the meter. When no test switch is selected, the meter indicates the incoming ac voltage (wall voltage).
Note: These LED’s will also be green when the amplifier is first switched on, and will extinguish when the bias resistors have reached full operating temperature after approximately 30 minutes. The threshold between green and no illumination is not precise; do not be overly concerned if some positions take longer to extinguish. The condition of individual tubes may be checked with the built in meter.
Note: a strong air current could cause the lights to remain green even in normal operation.
In the event that any output tube draw excessive idle current (a “run away” tube or a tube not biased correctly), the high voltage supply in the amplifier will shut down automatically and the LED corresponding to the problematic KT88 tube will indicate red. The red light will stay on until the power switch is turned off. This tube must be replaced. (Note: The LED’s for the other tubes will show green after a few minutes...this should be disregarded.)
To minimize difficulties, always source genuine VAC Tested audio tubes for your Phi.
CAUTION
THE AMPLIFIER AND POWER SUPPLY CONTAIN NO USER SERVICEABLE PARTS. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOTTOM PLATES OR CHASSIS COVERS. LETHAL VOLTAGES ARE PRESENT WITHIN THE CHASSIS. DO NOT OPERATE THE UNITS IF THEY ARE WET.
VACUUM TUBES BECOME HOT ENOUGH TO CAUSE SERIOUS BURNS. NEVER TOUCH A TUBE WHEN THE UNIT IS ON. IT MAY TAKE SEVERAL MINUTES FOR THE TUBES TO COOL DOWN AFTER THE UNIT IS SWITCHED OFF. IT IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED THAT THE TUBE COVERS BE LEFT IN PLACE AT ALL TIMES.
THE TUBE COVERS WILL BECOME HOT IN NORMAL OPERATION. DO NOT SET OR SPRAY ANYTHING ON THEM.
THE AMPLIFIER AND POWER SUPPLY ARE HEAVY. IT IS ADVISABLE TO HAVE ASSISTANCE IN UNPACKING, MOVING, AND SETTING UP. BE SURE TO USE PROPER LIFTING TECHNIQUES TO AVOID BACK STRAIN AND INJURY. BE CERTAIN TO INSTALL IT IN A SECURE LOCATION FROM WHICH IT CAN NOT FALL OR TIP OVER.
INDEX
Introduction Unpacking & Assembly Installation Input connectors Operation Feedback Triode & Ultra-Linear Modes Illuminated Logo Installing New Output Tubes Biasing & Checking Output Tube Condition Replacement of Low Level Tubes Care Of Chassis Tips and Advice
A Word About Tubes in General Output Tubes Low Level Tubes Impedance Matching Grounding
Tuning Your System Specifications Footnotes Warranty & Registration Form
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INTRODUCTION
The Phi Beam Power amplifiers are unique power amplifiers, and the most power and detailed in VAC’s history. Excellent linearity is achieved without resorting to loop negative feedback, for a more natural, dimensional sound.
A total of four KT88 are used in Class A1. Uniquely, each is provided with a separate DC heater supply to ensure that no undesirable couplings occur; only the intended ideal signal path exists.
The input circuitry of the Phi is derivative of the unique Williamson circuit, which provides pure, direct coupled, inherently balanced input amplification and phase splitting. Type 6SN7/5692 octal twin triodes do the honors.
Two superb VAC output transformer, interconnected in a way that allows high power to be delivered with the sonic purity of low power devices, provide superb voltage/current translation, allowing impedances from eight ohms to as low as one ohm to be driven.
The main chassis is machined from thick aluminum. The separate power supply allows e.m.f. fields, switching transients, and mechanical vibration to be isolated from the audio circuits. The high voltage supply utilizes dual choke pi filtering for extremely low noise.
The Phi Beam Power amplifiers are designed not to the latest fad but to substance, for the highest possible sound quality. Time spent familiarizing yourself with this manual will be well rewarded.
2
UNPACKING & ASSEMBLY
The vacuum tubes and glass covers are packed individually to prevent damage, and must be fitted to the amplifier before installation can proceed.
Remove the four screws that secure the aluminum top frame to the chassis pillars using the tool provided. Turn counterclockwise to remove.
Wear the supplied cotton gloves to minimize the chance of fingerprinting the nickel plated chassis. Wipe any oils off immediately.
Take care to prevent the tool from scratching the chassis.
Remove the top frame.
From each of the four columns remove the tape, which prevented the nylon setscrews from coming loose during shipment.
Slide the side and rear glass plates into the pillars’ channels. Note that the rear glass is slightly wider than the side glasses. The glass will not go all the way to the chassis top, but has a gap at the bottom for air flow. Take care not to scratch or break the glass.
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The front glass has the etched VAC logo. Install this between the front pillars. Take great care not to scratch this glass. The front glass fits into a small channel in the front plate.
Tighten the white nylon setscrews that secure the rear glass and side glasses. Turn clockwise to tighten.
There are four setscrews for each glass plate.
Do not tighten the setscrews for the front glass yet.
Install the six aluminum blocks at the top of the rear glass and side glasses. If there is a ‘dimple’ in the block, it should face the outside of the amplifier.
Tighten the metal setscrews that secure each block using the allen key supplied. Turn clockwise to tighten.
Replace the aluminum top frame. Ensure that the front glass fits into the groove in the top frame. Ensure that the top frame sits flush in the pillars.
Replace the four screws that secure the top frame. Turn clockwise to tighten.
(Note: photo does not show the tubes or glass, which should be installed by this time.)
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