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Installation
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United States Stove Company
P.O. Box 151
South Pittsburg, TN 37380
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INTRODUCTION
Thank You for your purchase of a U.S. Stove Wood/Coal
Burning External Furnace. Your decision to buy our Clayton Furnace was undoubtedly reached after much careful thought and consideration. We are very proud you
chose this furnace and trust you will receive the comfort
and economy that others realize when heating with a U.S.
Stove product.
Your dealer is important in your experience with the furnace not only with the purchase, but for recommendations for professional installation for your home. The
qualied professional installer has been expertly trained
in solid-fuel furnace installation to assure the safety and
comfort for your family while saving you money. Trust your
experienced installer. They are specialist in this eld.
IMPORTANT
Before installing and using your furnace, please read the
following pages thoroughly and carefully. If you follow the
instructions, your furnace will give you safe and more dependable service for years to come.
• Check your local codes. This installation must
comply with their rulings.
• This is an outdoor hot air furnace and must NOT
be installed inside the home or a building.
• This furnace must be connected to a 110 volt
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) outlet suitable for outdoor use.
• A back-up generator, 2,000 watts minimum, is
recommended in case of a power failure.
• Always have a properly functioning smoke or
ionization detector and a CO detector installed
in your home.
• To prevent injury or damage, do not allow anyone who is unfamiliar with the furnace to operate
it.
• Spend adequate time with your furnace to become well acquainted with the different settings
and how each will affect its burning patterns. It
is impossible to state just how each setting will
affect your furnace because of the variations in
each installation.
DISCLAIMER NOTICE
The BTU ranges and heating capacity specications are
provided as a guide and in no way guarantee the output
or capacity of this unit. The actual BTU output depends
on the type of fuel being burned and its conditions, the
thermostat setting, the draft adjustment and the chimney
to which the unit is attached. The actual area that this
unit will heat depends on factors such as the conditions
of the building, heat loss, type of construction, amount of
insulation, type of air movement, the location of the unit
and more importantly the duct work and return air facility.
Warning:
Do not alter this appliance in any way other than specied in these instructions. Doing so may void your warranty.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Your 1600EF furnace comes ready for installation. No assembly required. Unpack your furnace and insure that
there is no shipping damage. If damage exist, please
contact your dealer immediately. Review the items included with your furnace located inside the rebox.
1 - 10” Starter Collar
1 - 12” Starter Collar for Cold Air Return
8 - #10 x 3/4 Screws w/ Sealing Washer
1 - Literature Package
This furnace may be installed as a Stand-Alone Central
Furnace or as a Supplementary Furnace. If installed as a
Central Furnace, this unit will have it’s own central ducting
system and will essentially be your primary heat source.
If installed as a Supplementary Furnace, the 1600EF will
assist an Electric, Gas or Oil Fired Furnace in heating your
home by utilizing the existing furnace’s duct work system.
The 1600EF must not be wired in conjunction with the exist-
ing furnace. The outdoor furnace may be operated with
the supplied wall thermostat or a 24 volt thermostat that
you supply yourself.
The furnace should be placed outdoors on a level noncombustible base, preferably a 4’ x 8’ concrete pad, as
close to the home as clearances to combustibles will allow. If locating the furnace more than 10 feet away from
the home, a minimum of 6 feet of Class “A” HT 2100 All
Fuel 6 inch chimney pipe is required - Do not place the furnace more than 40 feet away from the home. Maintain
all clearances stated in this manual.
Class “A” HT 2100 All Fuel 6” Chimney Pipe is recommended for optimum performance and can be purchased
from your local dealer. A Chimney Base Plate should
be installed over the ue outlet and sealed to maintain
weather resistance. A 2” clearance to combustibles must
be maintained from the pipe. We suggest using either
Simpson Dura-Vent or Metal Fab chimney products for
your installation.
If you choose to use single wall stainless, the ue temperatures will be reduced which promotes the formation of
creosote, possibly creating a re hazard. If you use single
wall stainless pipe, the minimum clearance to combustibles is 20”.
Attach the appropriate chimney pipe lengths to the chosen chimney base plate and nish with a rain cap. Secure
the chimney with guy wires to each of the four anchors
point on the furnace. Your furnace requires it’s own chimney system and can not share a ue with another appliance.
Once you have selected a location for the furnace and
connected your furnace to a chimney and a 110 volt GFCI
outlet, you will need to commence an initial ring. DO NOT connect the furnace to your duct work at this time. Your
new furnace has a protective coating of oil and paint on
the surface which could produce smoke or odors during
the initial ring and will burn off. Build a small re - DO NOT ll the rebox to it’s full capacity for the initial burn. This
initial ring allows the metals and castings to cure.
After completing the ring and allowing it to cool, you are
ready to nish the installation. Refer to the remainder of
this manual for detailed instructions.
5USSC
WOOD SUPPLYFLUE PIPE INSTALLATION
Some important rules for preparing good rewood are: Cut,
split and stack the wood in the early spring and let it stand
in the sun and wind all summer.
Whether you purchase your wood or cut it yourself, spring
is the best time to buy or cut your wood to insure it is good
and dry come winter. If you live in a damper climate, it will
take longer for the wood to season.
By far the most important characteristic of any rewood
is its moisture content. Firewood with a moisture content
higher than twenty percent will burn, but it will be hard to
light and keep burning, will make a lot of smoke and will
produce less efcient res with lower sustained BTU output.
Plus much of its energy content will be wasted right up the
chimney. Firewood should be between 15 and 25 percent
moisture to burn properly and to get that dry it must be split
and stacked in the open for at least a full summer.
All wood burns, but wood that’s cut green (between 50
and more than 100 percent moisture content) burns with
more difculty, because the water in the wood must be
boiled off before the actual wood ber can burn. Air-dried
(“seasoned”) wood is generally between 20-30 percent.
Kiln-dried rewood generally contains less than 20 percent
moisture.
Green wood can produce more creosote--a black sooty
liquid which deposits and hardens on the inside of your
chimney and can ignite, causing a chimney re.
When you stack your wood, you should stack it in an open
location where the summer sun can warm it and breezes
can help remove moisture. Be sure to cover the top of the
wood pile to keep the rain out. It is important that you do
not stack unseasoned wood in an unventilated area for
it will not dry properly. You shouldn’t allow your rewood
to lay on the ground for more than a couple days before
stacking , or it will start to mold and rot quickly.
Once your wood is seasoned, store it in a dry location
before burning.
CLEARANCES
Clearances to combustible materials will vary with the type
of ue connection used. Be sure to maintain the specied
clearances for your type of installation.
TYPE OF FLUE REQUIRED
CONNECTION CLEARANCE
Class A 103HT All-Fuel or Equivalent .....2”
Double Wall, Stainless Steel or ...............6”
Double Wall, Black Pipe w/
Stainless Steel Inner wall
24 Gauge or Heavier .............................20”
Single Wall Stainless Steel
or Black Pipe
The above clearances to combustibles must be
maintained.
CHIMNEY REQUIREMENTS
A Class “A” HT 2100 All Fuel 6” Chimney Pipe and Base Plate
should be used for the installation. See Illustration. Place
the Base Plate over the ue outlet of the furnace and drill
eight(8) pilot holes into the Cabinet Top. Apply a generous
amount of high temperature sealant to the bottom of the
base plate, and around the ue outlet. Position the base
plate over the ue and secure with the eight(8) screws
provided. Then attach the ue pipe sections.
A minimum chimney height of 6 feet is required not including
the rain cap. In order to determine proper chimney height
above the roof, measure from the side of the chimney horizontally. As you move up the chimney, the length increases.
Once this measurement reaches 10 feet, this is the base
height of the chimney. The chimney must be 2 feet taller
than the base height. If the chimney is closer than 10 feet
from the peak of the roof, the chimney must be 2 feet taller
than the peak of the roof. The 2 feet measurement does
not include the rain cap.
Once correct chimney height is achieved, check the
chimney draft. It should not exceed 0.06 inches of water
column. Then secure with three screws at each joint and
attach guy wires down to the rings located around the top
of the furnace cabinet.
See illustration.
COMBUSTIBLE WALL
20”
22”
FLUE
COMBUSTIBLE WALL
12”
15”
(TOP VIEW)
MINIMUM CLEARANCES
TO A COMBUSTIBLE
WALL
CAUTION:
DO NOT store
combustible or
flammable materials or
liquids near the
furnace.
Sides of furnace, 12”; Rear of furnace, 15” (allow approximately 20” for the return box); Front of furnace, 36”; Heat
Duct, 2” for the rst 9 feet then 1” thereafter.
6USSC
CONNECTING HOT AIR DUCT
TO FURNACE
We strongly recommend that the hot air duct work be
installed by a home heating specialist. If doing the installation yourself, before you decide which installation will
best suit your needs, consult a qualied heating technician
and follow his recommendations as to the safest and most
efcient method of installation.
The warm-air supply-duct system shall be constructed of
metal in accordance with NFPA 90B, 2-1.1. The plenums
installed to the furnace be constructed of metal in accordance with NFPA 90B, 2-1.3.
Outside the house you must use 10 inch galvanized pipe,
wrapped with weather proof, UV resistant insulation. The
12 inch return may be galvanized pipe and attached to
the home so as to not pressurize the home.
NEVER reduce the 10” hot air or the 12” return air as this
will result in restricted air ow and cause the furnace to not
operate properly.
NEVER draw cold outside air into the blower housing. By
doing so, the furnace’s heat chamber will not reach the
necessary temperature to heat the home.
The duct work should be designed so the external static
pressure does not exceed 0.2 inches water column while
TYPES OF INSTALLATION
NO DUCT WORK INSTALLATION
developing air velocities of 600 to 1,000 feet per minute
in the main trunk duct and 400 to 600 feet per minute at
the registers. The heat outlet should never be less than ten
inches (10”) round or 79 square inches.
This furnace must be installed with a cold air return system.
The system must be a minimum of twelve inches (12”) to
readily transfer the cold air from the home back to the
furnace. If desired, a cold air lter box may be constructed
with a minimum opening of 225 square inches.
The warm-air supply outlet of the outdoor furnace must
not be connected to the cold-air-return inlet of an existing
central furnace because the possibility exist of components
of the existing furnace overheating and may cause the
central furnace to operate other than intended.
Cold air return must be installed in all installations, even those without an air duct system. If you do not, the furnace will
not be able to heat the home. A lter should be installed in the cold air return. Furnace lters should be checked and
cleaned/replaced regularly.
When there is no duct system to connect the furnace to, keep the following in mind:
1. You must separate the hot air duct from the cold air
return. Ideally, locate each at opposite ends of the
home. This method will work well in homes that are built
on concrete slabs and should create a good air ow. If
you do not, air will not ow evenly through the home.
2. In homes with a basement, you may run the hot air
duct to the basement and pull the cold air return from
the main oor. This will create the perfect air ow since
hot air rises.
7USSC
TYPES OF INSTALLATION continued...
CENTRAL DUCT CONNECTION
When connecting to a central duct system, avoid 90 degree elbows as this will reduce air ow delivery. A duct run
in excess of 40 feet is NOT RECOMMENDED. The air ow
and heat output will be greatly decreased.
Run 10” insulated hot air duct from the outdoor furnace
through a wall or window of the structure. Then attach a
exible hot air duct to the existing duct work. Connect the
duct with a 45 degree elbow or at an angle so the hot air
from the outdoor furnace is delivered downstream. This
will insure proper air ow into the system.
Avoid delivering hot air through an air conditioning coil as
this will cause an obstruction reducing heat output.
The following illustrations may be used as examples for
your installation.
INSTALLATION EXAMPLES
INSTALLATION #1
With this installation, a back draft damper (optional) is inserted into the heat run before the plenum of the existing
furnace to prevent air from the existing furnace to blow
back into the furnace when it is not in use. When a back
damper is employed, it should be located as close to the
existing furnace plenum as practical.
INSTALLATION #2
The bafe on this system should be made the full width of
the furnace plenum in order to properly direct the air into
the distribution ducts.
INSTALLATION #3
Extending the hot air duct from the furnace into the existing
plenum will help direct the ow of air from the furnace as
well as the ow in the existing furnace. Ducting entering
the existing plenum at an angle (approximately 45 degrees)
will facilitate air ow from the furnace while diverting air
from the existing furnace.
8USSC
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