Union Special PT0202 Parts Book
ADJUSTING INSTRUCTIONS / ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST
05/07/04
Oil - Less
36200 CLASS
MANUAL NO. PT0202
FOR STYLES
36200UAD52 36200UJED60
36200UED52 36200ULD60
36200UED60 36200UMD60
36200UHD52 36200UYD52
36200UJD60 36200UYD60
Manual No. PT0202 llustrated Parts List for 36200 Series Machines
First Edition Copyright 2004
By
Union Special Corporation Rights Reserved In All Countries
Printed in U.S.A. January 2004
PREFACE
This parts manual has been prepared to assist you in locating individual parts or assemblies on 36200 Series machines.
It is the desire of Union Special that each machine run at its optimum performance. Parts listed in this manual are designed
specifically for your machine and are manufactured with utmost precision to assure long lasting service.
This manual has been comprised on the basis of available information. Changes in design and/or improvements may
incorporate a slight modification of configuration in illustrations or part numbers.
On the following pages are illustrations and terminology used in describing the parts used on 36200 Series machines.
TERMS
Prices are net cash and subject to change without notice. All shipments are forwarded F.O.B. shipping point. A charge is made
to cover postage and insurance.
CONTENTS
PREFACE ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 2
TERMS ............................................................................................................................................................................................2
IDENTIFICATION OF MACHINES .................................................................................................................................................. 3
TORQUE REQUIREMENTS .............................................................................................................................................................. 3
DESCRIPTION OF MACHINES ....................................................................................................................................................... 3
STYLE OF MACHINES ....................................................................................................................................................................4
SAFETY RULES:............................................................................................................................................................................... 5
IDENTIFYING PARTS ...................................................................................................................................................................... 6
NEEDLES ........................................................................................................................................................................................6
APPLICATION ............................................................................................................................................................................... 6
Threading .....................................................................................................................................................................................7
Oiling ............................................................................................................................................................................................ 8
ADJUSTING INSTRUCTIONS .......................................................................................................................................................... 9
SETTING THE NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT & ALIGNMENT ....................................................................................................................... 9
SETTING THE NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT & ALIGNMENT (CONT) ....................................................................................................... 10
ALIGNING THE CYLINDER .......................................................................................................................................................... 10
SETTING THE LOOPER TRAVEL .................................................................................................................................................... 10
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING SYNCHRONIZING GAUGE 21277CG ........................................................................................... 11
SETTING THE LOOPER TRAVEL .................................................................................................................................................... 11
TIMING THE NEEDLES TO THE LOOPER ....................................................................................................................................... 11
TIMING THE NEEDLES TO THE LOOPER (CONT.) ........................................................................................................................ 12
LOOPER ADJUSTMENTS .............................................................................................................................................................. 13
LOOPER ADJUSTMENTS (CONT.) ............................................................................................................................................... 14
SETTING THE FRONT NEEDLE GUARD ......................................................................................................................................... 14
SETTING THE FEED DOGS............................................................................................................................................................ 14
SETTING THE REAR NEEDLE GUARD ........................................................................................................................................... 15
2
CONTENTS (CONT.)
SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH ...................................................................................................................................................... 15
DIFFERENTIAL FEED CONTROL ................................................................................................................................................... 15
SETTING THE PRESSER FOOT ....................................................................................................................................................... 15
SETTING THE PRESSER FOOT (CONT.) ........................................................................................................................................ 16
SETTING THE PRESSER FOOT (CONT.) ........................................................................................................................................ 17
SETTING THE KNIFE DRIVE LEVER ................................................................................................................................................ 17
SETTING THE KNIFE DRIVE LEVER (CONT.) ................................................................................................................................. 18
SETTING THE TRIMMING KNIVES FOR LAP SEAMING (ALL STYLES ) ......................................................................................... 18
SETTING THE TRIMMING KNIVES (ALL STYLES) (CONT.) ............................................................................................................ 19
NEEDLE THREAD ADJUSTMENTS ................................................................................................................................................. 19
LOOPER THREAD ADJUSTMENT ..................................................................................................................................................20
COVER THREAD ADJUSTMENT ................................................................................................................................................... 20
TENSION RELEASE .......................................................................................................................................................................20
HUNG FOOT ADJUSTMENT ......................................................................................................................................................... 21
SETTING THE LAP FORMER .......................................................................................................................................................... 21
LAP SEAMING ............................................................................................................................................................................. 21
OIL SIGHT GAUGES, TOP COVERS & MISCELLANEOUS TAKEUP & EYELET PARTS .................................................................... 23
MAIN FRAME, BUSHINGS & MISCELLANEOUS EYELET & COVER PARTS .................................................................................. 25
MAIN SHAFT & MISCELLANEOUS OILING ................................................................................................................................. 27
CRANKSHAFT & NEEDLE LEVER PARTS .......................................................................................................................................29
TENSION PARTS .......................................................................................................................................................................... 31
DETACHABLE HEAD, HEAD COVERS, NEEDLE BAR & NEEDLE BAR HEAD ................................................................................ 33
DETACHABLE HEAD, HEAD COVERS, NEEDLE BAR & NEEDLE BAR HEAD ................................................................................ 35
DIFFERENTIAL & MAIN FEED BARS, FEED DOGS & FEED LIFT ECCENTRIC ASSEMBLY .............................................................. 37
FEED DRIVE ASSEMBLY, FEED ROCKER & LOOPER AVOID PARTS ......................................................................................... 39
KNIFE DRIVING PARTS ................................................................................................................................................................41
LOOPER ROCKER SHAFT & LOOPER ROCKER DRIVE PARTS ..................................................................................................... 43
LAP FORMER, MISCELLANEOUS CYLINDER COVERS, THROAT PLATE, & CHAIN CUTTING KNIFE ........................................... 45
CYLINDER BUSHINGS, DIFFERENTIAL FEED CONTROL ASSEMBLY & MISCELLANEOUS CYLINDER COVERS ........................ 47
PRESSER FOOT FOR 36200UED52, 60......................................................................................................................................... 49
PRESSER FOOT 36200UYD52, 60 ................................................................................................................................................ 51
PRESSER FOOT SHOE CHART ...................................................................................................................................................... 52
PRESSER FOOT SHOE CHART ...................................................................................................................................................... 53
THREAD STAND ........................................................................................................................................................................... 55
MISCELLANEOUS GAUGES & TAPE REEL PARTS ........................................................................................................................ 57
THREAD LUBRICATOR ................................................................................................................................................................. 59
NUMERICAL INDEX OF PARTS .................................................................................................................................................... 60
NUMERICAL INDEX OF PARTS .................................................................................................................................................... 61
IDENTIFICATION OF MACHINES
Each UNION SPECIAL machine is identified by a style number, which is stamped into the style plate affixed to the middle of the
machine under the tension assembly.
The serial number is stamped in the casting at the right rear base of the machine.
TORQUE REQUIREMENTS
Torque (measured in inch-pounds) is a rotating force (in pounds applied through a distance by a lever (in inches or feet). This is
accomplished by a wrench, screwdriver, etc. Many of these devices are available, which when set at the proper amount of torque
will tighten the part to the correct amount and no tighter.
All straps and eccentrics should be tightened to 19-21 inch-pounds (22-24cm/kg) unless otherwise noted.
All other nuts, bolts, screws, etc. should be tightened by hand as tightly as possible, unless otherwise noted.
DESCRIPTION OF MACHINES
Universal style, Feed-off-the-arm, high speed, medium throw, five or six thread machine. There are four needles and one retainer
abreast, one looper and a manually adjusted differential feed control. There is an enclosed automatic lubricating system, filter
type oil return pump, visual sight oil action and supply gauges. The maximum work space in front of the needles is 8 inches
(203.2mm). Recommended maximum speed - 4200 R.P.M. for all Styles. Machines can be used on either table or pedestal mount.
3
STYLE OF MACHINES
36200UAD52 FLATSEAMER: For simultaneously trimming right and left plies and flatseaming knit undergarments, infants
clothing and similar light to medium weight materials where closing elastic is required.
Seam specifications 607-FSa-1. Components produce a .205" (5.2mm) wide seam.
36200UED52
36200UED60
36200UHD60 LAP FLATSEAMER: For simultaneously trimming right and left plies and lap seaming men's briefs shorts, and similar
36200UJD60
36200UJED60
36200ULD60
36200UMD60
LAP FLATSEAMER: For simultaneously trimming right and left plies and lap seaming men's and woman's briefs,
undergarments, sweatpants, sweatshirts, infant sleepers and similar garments. Flat sewing parts with lap seam
presser foot and lapformer. Seam specifications 607LSa-1. Components produce a .205"(5.2mm) wide seam.
LAP FLATSEAMER: Same as 36200UE52 except fitted with components to produce a .236" (6.0mm) wide seam.
garments made of light to medium weight material where crossing elastic and heavy seams, such as leg
bindings is necessary. The right section of the sewing parts are raised .050" (1.27mm) to assure a better lap seam.
Seam specifications 607-LSa-1. Components produce a .205" (5.2mm) wide seam.
FLATSEAMER: Same as 36200UA52 except fitted with components to produce a .236" (6.0mm) wide seam.
FLATSEAMER: For simultaneously trimming right and left plies and flatseaming knit undergarments, infants
clothing and similar light to medium weight materials where closing elastic is required.
Seam specifications 607-FSa-1.
LAP FLATSEAMER: For simultaneously trimming right and left plies and lap seaming men's briefs shorts, and similar
garments made of light to medium weight material where crossing elastic and heavy seams, such as leg
bindings is necessary. Seam specifications 607-LSa-1. (Machine includes sewing parts to sew both FSa-1 Flat
(butt) seam and LSa-1 Lap seam.)
Components produce a .236" (6.0mm) wide seam.
LAP FLATSEAMER:
LAP FLATSEAMER: Same as 36200UHD52 except fitted with components to produce a .236" (6mm) wide seam.
36200UYD52 LAP FLATSEAMER: For simultaneously trimming right and left plies and lap seaming operations on the leg openings
of knitted boxer style briefs using wide knitted callerette material. Flat sewing parts with special lap seam presser
foot and special lap former. Fitted with long feed dogs," T" shaped yielding section with light weight spring, light
presser bar spring and wear plates on presser foot.
Seam specifications 607LSa-1. Components produce a .205(5.2mm) wide seam.
4
SAFETY RULES:
1. Before putting the machines described in this manual into service, carefully read the instructions. The
starting of each machine is only permitted after taking notice of the instructions and by qualified
operators.
IMPORTANT! Before putting the machine into service, also read the safety rules and
instructions from the motor supplier.
2. Observe the national safety rules valid for your country.
3. The sewing machines described in this instruction manual are prohibited from being put into service until
it has been ascertained that the sewing units which these sewing machines will be built into, have
conformed with the EC Council Directives (89/392/EEC, Annex II B).
Each machine is only allowed to be used as foreseen. The foreseen use of the particular machine is
described in paragraph “STYLES OF MACHINES” of this instruction manual. Another use, going beyond
the description, is not as foreseen.
4. All safety devices must be in position when the machine is ready for work or in operation. Operation of
the machine without the appertaining safety devices is prohibited.
5. Wear safety glasses.
6. In case of machine conversions and changes all valid safety rules must be considered. Conversions and
changes are made at your own risk.
7. The warning hints in the instructions are marked with one of these two symbols:
8. When doing the following the machine has to be disconnected from the power supply by turning off the
main switch or by pulling out the main plug:
8.1 When threading needle(s), looper, spreader etc.
8.2 When replacing any parts such as needle(s), presser foot, throat plate, looper, spreader, feed dog,
needle guard, folder, fabric guide etc.
8.3 When leaving the workplace and when the workplace is unattended.
8.4 When doing maintenance work.
8.5 When using clutch motors without actuation lock, wait until the motor is stopped totally.
9. Maintenance, repair and conversion work (see item 8) must be done only by trained technicians or
special skilled personnel under consideration of the instructions.
10. Any work on the electrical equipment must be done by an electrician or under direction and supervision
of special skilled personnel.
11. Work on parts and equipment under electrical power is not permitted. Permissible exceptions are
described in the applicable sections of standard sheet DIN VDE 0105.
12. Before doing maintenance and repair work on the pneumatic equipment, the machine has to be
disconnected from the compressed air supply. In case of existing residual air pressure, after discon-
necting from compressed air supply (i.e. pneumatic equipment with air tank), the pressure has to be
removed by bleeding.
5
36200UYD60 LAP FLATSEAMER: Same as 36200UY52 except fitted with components to produce a .236" (6.0mm) wide seam.
ILLUSTRATIONS
This manual has been arranged to simplify ordering repair parts. Exploded views of various sections of the mechanism are shown
so that the parts may be seen in their actual position in the machine. On the page opposite the illustration will be found a listing
of the parts with their part numbers, description and the number of pieces required in the particular view being shown.
Numbers in the first column are reference numbers only, and merely indicate the position of the part in the illustration. The
reference number should never be used in ordering parts. Always use the part number listed in the second column.
Component parts of sub-assemblies which can be furnished for repairs are indicated by indenting their descriptions under the
description of the main sub-assembly. As an example refer to the following text.
9. 29126 EC Upper Looper Drive Shaft Assembly ................................................................................. 1
10. 22503 F Screw ................................................................................................................................. 1
11. 39543 E Cam Follower Locking Clamp ..................................................................................... 1
It will be noted in the previous example that the cam follower, bushing and cam guide and the upper looper drive shaft are not
listed. The reason is that replacement of these parts individually is not recommended, so the complete upper looper drive shaft
assembly should be ordered.
When a part is common to all machines covered in this manual, no specific usage will be mentioned in the description. However,
when the parts for the various machines are not the same, the specific usage will be mentioned in the description and, if necessary,
the difference will be shown in the illustration.
A numerical index of all the parts shown in this manual is located at the back. This will facilitate locating the illustration and
description when only a part number is known.
IDENTIFYING PARTS
Where the construction permits, each part is stamped with its part number. On some of the smaller parts and on those where
construction does not permit, an identification letter is stamped in to distinguish the part from similar ones.
PLEASE NOTE: Part numbers represent the same part, regardless of which manual they appear. On all orders please include
part number, name and style of machine for which the part was ordered.
NEEDLES
Each needle has both a type and size number. The type number denotes the kind of shank, point, length, groove, finish and other
details. The size number, stamped on the needle shank, denotes the largest diameter of the blade measured between the shank
and the eye. Collectively, the type number and size number represent the complete symbol which is given on the label of all
needles packed and sold by Union Special.
TYPE DESCRIPTION
118GAS Extra short, double groove, struck groove, .060" diameter shank, chromium plated needle.
Sizes available 065/025, 070/027, 075/029, 080/032, 090/036.
118GBS Extra short, single groove, struck groove, spotted .060" diameter shank, chromium plated needle.
Sizes available 075/029, 080/032.
118GHS Same as 118GBS, except with ball point. Sizes available 070/027, 075/029, 080/032.
118GJS Same as 118GHS, except with tapered blade and ball point. Sizes available 065/025, 070/027, 075/029.
118GKS Round shank, round point, extra short, double groove, struck groove, spotted, chromium plated needle.
Sizes available 070/027, 075/029, 080/032.
36211 Retainer needle, no scarf, chromium plated. Sizes available 065/025, 070/027, 075/029.
APPLICATION
When changing the needle, make sure it is fully inserted in the needle driving arm before the clamp screw is tightened.
To have needles promptly and accurately filled, an empty package, a needle sample, or the type and size number should be
forwarded. Use the description on the label. A complete order should read as follows: "100 needles, type 118 GKS, size 075/029".
6
THREADING
7
OILING
Referring to Fig. 1, fill the machine at (A) and (B). Oil capacity of class 36200 is 2.5 ounces in the bottom
reservoir and 2.5 ounces in the top reservoir. Use a straight mineral oil, Saybolt viscosity of 90 to 125 seconds
at 100° Fahrenheit (Union Special Spec 175 part no. 28604R). The oil level is checked at gauges (C) and (D).
Maintain oil level between the red lines of these gauges.
This machine is automatically lubricated by a continuously driven rotary pump. Oil flow can be observed
through windows (A) and (B). When installing a new machine or starting a machine that has been idle for
some time, priming may be necessary. Remove plug screws (E), fill holes with recommended oil and replace
screws
Remove screw 22733B (F, Fig. 1 inset) to drain oil from the top reservoir. To drain oil from bottom reservoir
remove screw 999-196 (G).
Occasionally, it is necessary to oil the linkage of the presser foot, the knife holder shank (36273A), guide
collar (36273K) and the various links and bearings of the presser foot lifting mechanism and thread tension
release.
BEFORE operating. If oil does not flow while machine is running, pump is inoperative.
FIG. 1
8
ADJUSTING INSTRUCTIONS
Instructions stating direction or location, such as right, left, front or rear of the machine are given relative to
the operator's position at the machine unless otherwise noted. The handwheel rotates clockwise in
operating direction.
SETTING THE NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT & ALIGNMENT
Insert the first (left) and fourth needles into the needle head. The
needles for this Class of machine are made with two flats on the front
of the shank. This will enable you to correctly position the needles in
the needle head. Make certain the needle shank is fully inserted and
that the screw is seated firmly on the flat.
To position the needle head square with the throat plate, use the
upper knife or a straight edge to align the needles with the cross
grooves in the throat plate. (See Fig. 2)
Refer to table 1 for the dimension from the fourth (lowest) needle to
the surface of the throat plate and for the number of the needle bar
height gauge.
FIG. 2
Position the needle bar at its highest
MORFNOISNEMID
)TSEWOL(HT4
ELYTS
OTELDEEN
ETALPTAORHT
ECAFRUS
EGUAG25)MM5.31("23/71UB72212135.
EGUAG06)MM7.21("2/1SD72212005.
ELDEEN
RAB
THGIEH
EGUAG
REBMUN
ELDEEN
point of travel. Loosen needle bar
clamp screw (A, FIG.3) & use the speci-
THGIEH
fied needle bar height gauge (B) to
EGUAG
achieve the desired height dimension
PETS
from the fourth (lowest) needle (C) to
DEKRAM
the throat plate surface (D). Tighten
clamp screw (A) and recheck setting.
Care must be taken not to disturb the
needle head alignment while making
the adjustment. Add the two middle
needles and the retainer.
FIG. 3
TABLE 1
CAUTION: If the needle head has been replaced it must be torqued to 17 in. lbs.
(20cm/kg). After tightening, check for expansion of the needle bar by position-
ing it up into the lower bushing hole. If the bar has expanded it will bind in the
bushing. The bar must be replaced or lapped to reduce the bell shape. Align
and set needle bar height as described above.
9
FIG. 4
SETTING THE NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT & ALIGNMENT (CONT)
Correct spacing of the needles in the throat plate stitch tongue is
imperative to proper sewing conditions. Improper relationship of the
needles to the stitch tongue often results in malformed stitches.
When replacing the stitch tongue make sure needles are aligned
properly (see Fig. 4).
If the stitch tongue and throat plate are properly seated and the
needle position is not correct, the cylinder has probably been forced
out of position. If realignment is necessary, refer to the section
"Centering the Cylinder".
When the needles are correctly positioned in the throat plate the
space to the left of the needles in the stitch tongue slot is .006"
(0.15mm) more than the space to the right (see Fig. 4). Actually, the
needle bar is centered to the throat plate and cylinder, however, to
provide clearance on the left side of the needle for the needle loops
passing around the looper during the down stroke of the needles, the
slots in the stitch tongue are made off-center to the left. Accurate
positioning of the needles may be obtained by repositioning the
cylinder.
ALIGNING THE CYLINDER
FIG. 5
Remove the top front cover and gasket from the main frame. Loosen
cylinder holding screw (A, Fig. 5). Turn eccentric screw (B) clock-
wise to move the cylinder so the needles are closer to the right side
of the stitch tongue. Turn the stud counterclockwise to locate the
needles closer to the left. Tighten screw (A) and recheck settings.
NOTE: The cylinder may not move freely when the eccentric is turned
because the joint sealant compound has set. Light tapping with a
wooden block at the joint or midpoint of the arm may be necessary.
SETTING THE LOOPER TRAVEL
Attach looper travel gauge plate (A, Fig. 6) to the rear of the cylinder
arm. Set the bottom of the gauge so it is approximately horizontal
and lock lightly in place with screw (B) directly underneath. Attach
looper travel gauge pointer (C) to the looper using the left needle
guard screw hole. Turn the handwheel in operating direction until the
looper is positioned to the far right. Set pointer (C) at zero degrees
by rotating gauge plate (A) and lock in place. Continue turning the
handwheel until the pointer stops. If the looper travel is correct the
pointer should indicate 55°40'.
FIG. 6
10
SETTING THE LOOPER TRAVEL
To adjust the looper travel remove the top front cover and the end
cover. Loosen left-handed locknut (A, Fig. 7) and turn screw (B)
clockwise to decrease the looper travel or counterclockwise to
increase the looper travel. Tighten locknut (A) and recheck setting.
NOTE: After setting the looper travel the machine must be checked
for synchronization.
FIG. 7
TIMING THE NEEDLES TO THE LOOPER
To visually check the timing of the needles to the looper, turn the handwheel in operating direction until the
needle bar has reached its lowest position and has risen 5/32" (4.0mm). At this time the looper point should
appear at the same relative position to the needles whether rotation of handwheel is clockwise or
counterclockwise.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING
SYNCHRONIZING GAUGE 21277CG
FIG. 8
Turn the handwheel until the needle bar is at its lowest point. Loosen
presser bar regulating screw (A, Fig. 8) and insert needle bar setting
block (B) under the head of the screw (A) with stop screw (C) above
needle bar (D). Tighten screw (A).
The long portion of the looper clamp and height gauge (E, Fig. 8) laid
on its side is the 5/32" (4.0mm) gauge used to set the distance
between stop screw (C) and the top of the needle bar (D) at its lowest
position. Tighten nut (F) to clamp stop screw (C) into place.
11
FIG. 9
TIMING THE NEEDLES TO THE LOOPER (CONT.)
Attach the looper clamp and height gauge (A, Fig. 9) to the
heal of the looper by tightening screw (B). Turn the handwheel
slowly in a clockwise direction until needle bar (C) touches
stop screw (D). Loosen screw (E) and set synchronizing
gauge rod (F) so the flat end is on one of the lines in the
center of the block (G). Tighten screw (E).
Turn the handwheel in the opposite direction until the needle
bar touches stop screw (D, Fig. 9). Synchronizing rod (F)
should come to the same line on block (G). The difference
must not exceed one line.
If the setting cannot be achieved, main shaft coupling (A,
Fig. 10) must be repositioned. Remove the crank chamber
cover and gasket. Loosen the three coupling screws (B). If
synchronizing rod (F, Fig. 9) moves more to the right while the
handwheel is rotated in a clockwise direction, the looper is
too fast and the main shaft should be retarded. If the rod
moves more to the right when the handwheel is rotated in a
counterclockwise direction the looper is too slow and the
mainshaft should be advanced. Tighten screws (B, Fig. 10).
NOTE: If the stationary Knife interferes with the syn-
chronizing rod (F) remove the knife to make
the adjustment.
FIG. 10
12
FIG. 11
FIG. 12
LOOPER ADJUSTMENTS
Looper Avoid
The looper avoid is set at .094" (2.4mm). Using gauge no.
21227BV (A, Fig. 11), position looper shaft (B) fully to the rear
(away from operator) and insert the gauge through the looper
shaft hole in the end of the cylinder until the plunger is fully
extended from the gauge. Tighten clamp screw (C). When the
looper is positioned fully to the front, the end of the plunger
should be flush with the end of the gauge. The motion of the
plunger from the extended position to flush represents .094"
(2.4mm) travel. To adjust the looper avoid remove the cylinder
cover and loosen screw (A, Fig. 12) with TT-85 wrench. Raise the
ball joint to shorten the avoid motion or lower it to lengthen the
avoid motion. Tighten screw (A). Reposition gauge (A, Fig. 11)
and recheck the setting.
FIG. 13
Vertical Adjustment of Looper
A clearance of .018" to .025" (0.46mm to 0.64mm) should be maintained
between the top of the looper and the bottom of the stitch tongue. Loosen
screw (C, Fig. 13) and turn screw (D), directly under the looper, up or down as
required. Make sure the looper is seated and tighten screw (C). Check for
clearance.
13
FIG. 15
LOOPER ADJUSTMENTS (CONT.)
Looper Gauge
Turn the handwheel in operating direction until the looper has trav-
eled fully to the left. Loosen screw (A, Fig. 15) and move the looper
holder to the right or left until the distance from the point of the looper
to the center of the first (left) needle is 3/16" (4.8mm). Clearance
between the looper point and the scarf of the needle must not exceed
.002" (0.05mm). Turn screw (B) until the .002" (0.05mm) dimension is
achieved. Tighten screw (A).
NOTE: Looper gauge may need to be increased or decreased slightly
to obtain a proper stitch.
SETTING THE FRONT NEEDLE GUARD
Install needle guard (A, Fig. 16) and position it to touch but not deflect
the first needle. Slowly turn the handwheel in operating direction and
check the needles to make sure they are not pinched between the
looper and the needle guard.
FIG. 16
FIG. 17
SETTING THE FEED DOGS
Preliminary Setting:
Install the differential feed dog (A, Fig. 17) with screw (B).
Attach rear needle guard (C) to main feed dog (D),
pushing in fully to the rear and tighten screw (E). Install
main feed dog with screw (F).
As a starting point loosen screw (G) and set the slot in feed
bar eccentric stud (H) in a horizontal position. Tighten
screw (G). At the highest point of travel feed dogs (A and
D) should be the depth of one full tooth above throat plate
(J). Loosen screws (B and F) and adjust the height of each
feed dog by moving them up or down in the elongated
slot of the shank. Tighten screws (B and F). Loosen screw
(G) and turn stud (H) until the top of the feed dogs are
parallel to the throat plate. Rotating stud (H) will simulta-
neously level both feed dogs.
NOTE: When setting eccentric stud (H) if turned clock-
wise feeddogs should go up if turned counter-
clockwise feed dogs should go down.
Final Setting:
Both the main and differential feed dogs may be individu-
ally adjusted to height. Main feed dog (D) at its highest
position should rise above the top of the throat plate the
depth of one full tooth when the normal presser spring
pressure is applied. The differential feed (A) may then be
raised to it.
14
FIG. 18
SETTING THE REAR NEEDLE GUARD
Set rear needle guard (A, Fig. 18) so it touches the first (left)
needle (B) but does not deflect. Check the guard position to
the other needles to avoid pinching. Loosen screw (C) and
reposition guard (A) as necessary. Tighten screw (C).
SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH
This machine is designed to sew 10 to 16 stitches per inch. The
normal factory setting is 12 stitches per inch. To change the
stitch length remove the plug screw located directly above
the cylinder side cover. Loosen screw (A, Fig. 19) in lever (B)
and move up to increase the stitch length or down to de-
crease the stitch length. Tighten screw (A) and replace the
plug screw.
CAUTION: If the stitch length is changed the rear needle
guard setting must be checked and readjusted
if necessary. Failure to do so may result in
needle and/or parts breakage.
CAUTION: When making stitch length adjustment do not
exceed maximum recomended stitch length
due to possible part damage.
FIG. 20
DIFFERENTIAL FEED CONTROL
The amount of differential feed is controlled by lever
(C, Fig. 19). The adjusting plate is numbered from 1 to
9. When the lever is set from numbers 1 to 4 reverse
differential or stretching occurs. The numbers from 4
to 5 produce equal feed stitching while numbers 5 to
9 produce a gathering stitch. The two stop screws (D)
can be set to limit the movement of lever (C) or lock
the lever in one position.
FIG. 19
SETTING THE PRESSER FOOT
Remove the presser bar regulating screw and the presser spring.
Raise the needle bar to its highest position and remove the re-
tainer. As the foot is slipped under the needles, swing the upper
knife into the opening on the right side of the foot and slide the
linkage onto the hook driving sleeve. Insert the presser bar
through the linkage and into the presser foot shank. Tighten
presser foot screw. With the presser bar inserted properly into the
presser foot, position the foot left to right so the finger of cover
thread carrier (A, Fig. 20) is between the first and second needles.
Set presser bar guide (B, Fig. 20 Inset) so foot will not move. Set
right presser foot guide (C) and left presser foot guide (D) to
maintain setting. Loosen presser bar guide screw (E Fig. 20 Inset)
and check to see that foot has vertical freedom with no right to left
play, no bind. Put the needle bar is in its lowest position, and set
1/32"(0.8mm) above head of presser bar guide stud. Tighten
presser bar guide screw (E).
15
FIG. 21
SETTING THE PRESSER FOOT (CONT.)
Turn the handwheel in operating direction until link (A,
Fig. 20) has traveled fully to the front. There must be a
1/64" (0.4mm) clearance between link (A) and the back
of needle head (B) when link (A) starts to jackknife.
Loosen screw (C) and rotate driving sleeve (D) to posi-
tion link (A). Tighten screw (C).
Add the cover thread hook(F) and cover thread carrier(E)
if they are not in place. Position carrier so the thread
loop will be carried behind the first two needles. There
should be a minimum 1/64"(0.4mm) clearance between
the hook and the carrier at their closest position.
Replace the presser spring and the presser bar regulating screw.
Loosen screws (A, Fig. 22) in lifter lever link assembly (B) and position
lever (C) so there is 1/32" (0.8mm) clearance between it and presser
bar guide (D) when the feed dogs are below the throat plate.
FIG. 22
FIG. 23
When the hook swings to the left it will pass over the cover thread. On
its return travel, the thread will "pop" into the slot on the underside of
the hook and is carried to the right. This thread forms a triangle for
the third and forth needle threads to pass through. As the cover
thread "pops" into the slot it must cast-off the high point of take-up (A,
Fig. 23) at the same time. Loosen the two screws in the cover thread
take-up and reposition if necessary. If there is difficulty in making
this adjustment, check the thread tension and make sure the hook
point has an extremely high polish and the angle is correct. Due to
clearance requirements bending the hook is not recommended.
16
FIG. 24
SETTING THE PRESSER FOOT (CONT.)
The presser foot lifter stop
plunger must be set so the
cover thread hook will not hit
the bottom of the needle
head as the presser foot is
being lifted. Position the
needle bar to its lowest point
of travel. Loosen nut (A, Fig.
24) and turn plunger (B)
clockwise until it strikes the
crankshaft counterweight.
While applying pressure to
lifter (C) to lift the foot, back
out of the plunger until the
distance between the hook
FIG. 25
To adjust the position and tension of frame chip guard (A, Fig. 26),
slightly loosen screw (B) and turn washer (C) with 21388Y spanner
wrench until spring (D) snaps the guard into the closed position.
Tighten screw (B). A light resistance should be felt when opening the
guard.
and the underside of the
needle head is 1/64" (0.4mm)
(see Fig. 25). Tighten nut (A,
Fig. 24).
FIG. 26
SETTING THE KNIFE DRIVE LEVER
FIG. 27
Position the needle bar at the bot-
tom of its stroke. Measure from the
top of the needle bar to the top of
the casting to obtain dimension "A"
(see Fig. 27).
Position the needle bar at the top
of its stroke. Measure from the top
of the needle bar to the top of the
casting to obtain dimension "B".
Subtract dimension "A" from di-
mension "B" and divide by two. Add
this number to dimension "A" to
obtain "C". Set a caliper to the "C"
dimension and turn the handwheel
in operating direction until the
height of the needle bar is at the
"C" dimension
17
FIG. 28
SETTING THE KNIFE DRIVE LEVER (CONT.)
At this time the knife drive lever should be in the 6 o'clock
position. If adjustment is necessary, loosen screws (A, Fig. 28)
in the needle lever and reposition knife drive lever (B) to the
6 o'clock position. Tighten screws (A). The dimension be-
tween the centerline of right and left knife drive connection
ball joints (C and D) must be 2 27/32" (72.2mm). Loosen left
hand thread nut (E), right hand thread nut (F) and turn con-
necting rod (G) until dimension is achieved. Tighten nuts (E
and F).
SETTING THE TRIMMING KNIVES FOR LAP SEAMING
(ALL STYLES )
To make the adjustments for a lap seam, position lower
knife (A, Fig. 29) in the foot so it extends 1/64" (0.4mm)
past the right side of the left toe (B) (approximately even
with the first needle). Loosen screw (C) and move knife
in or out as required. Tighten screw (C) securely.
FIG. 29
Turn handwheel in operating direction until knife driving
bracket (D) is positioned to the extreme left. At this time
the front edge of both knives should be parallel with
each other and the upper knife cutting edge should
overlap lower knife cutting edge by 1/64" (0.4mm).
18
FIG. 30
SETTING THE TRIMMING KNIVES
(ALL STYLES) (CONT.)
If necessary loosen screw (A,
Fig. 30) and move knife (B) to
the right or left as required.
Tighten screw (A).
If the shear angle between
the knives has to be changed,
raise or lower screw (C, Fig.
30) in knife holder shank (D).
To set spring pressure be-
tween the knives loosen
screw (A, Fig. 31) and raise
knife holder guide collar (B)
1/16" (1.6mm) from knife driv-
FIG. 31
NOTE: More or less spring pressure may be required depend-
ing on the type of material being sewn. Also, both
knives may have to be repositioned after a trial seam
is made so there is an equal margin from the edges of
the two plies to the center rows of stitching.
ing bracket (C). Tighten
screw (A).
NEEDLE THREAD ADJUSTMENTS
Four needle thread strike-off pins (A, Fig. 32) are provided for inde-
pendent needle thread control. Level the take-ups to the height of
the thread in the needle lever eyelet at its lowest position. Raise the
first take-up (nearest the operator) 1/8" (3.2mm) and the second
FIG. 32
FIG. 33
Turn screw (B) up or down so unlocking spring (A) will have 1/8" (3.2mm) drop from the bottom of the thread
holes to the top of screw (B). Loosen screw (C) and turn knurled knob (D) to adjust the spring tension. Tighten
screw (C).
take-up 1/16" (1.6mm). Further adjustment may be necessary to
obtain proper needle loop size so skipped stitches may be avoided.
Set the four frame needle thread eyelets (B, Fig. 32)
eye with the eyelets in holder (C). Adjust as neces-
sary so the needle thread loops around the looper
will remain firm and not seek random positions when
the needle bar descends.
Unlocking spring (A, Fig. 33) provides a propor tional
amount of pull-up of the needle threads when the
machine is reversed for unlocking the stitch so the
loops will not form on the front of the needles and
become caught by the looper.
NOTE: Unlocking spring is only used when starting
and stopping on the material.
Tension of the six threads is individually controlled. The needle tension is seldom uniform; the first needle
thread having more tension than the other three. Use only enough tension to pull up the stitch. A well-
balanced stitch will have the first and fourth needle loops pulled up and the second and third needle loops
small and even.
19
FIG. 34
LOOPER THREAD ADJUSTMENT
Loosen screws (A, Fig. 34) and position looper thread cast-off (B)
flush with the right end of cast-off support plate (C). Tighten screws
(A). Loosen screws (D, Fig. 34 inset) and time take-up (E) so the
thread will cast-off when the needle bar has descended 7/64" (2.8mm)
from its highest position. When thread eyelets (F) are moved further
to the left the amount of thread pull-off will increase.
COVER THREAD ADJUSTMENT
Loosen screw (A, Fig. 35) and set the lower edge of cover thread
take-up eyelet (B) so its 3/32" (2.4mm) above the surface of cast-off
plate (C). Tighten screw (A). As the cover thread hook moves to the
left over the cover thread and the needle bar starts to rise, the cover
thread must "cast-off" from the high point of take-up (D). Loosen
screws (E) and adjust take-up (F) accordingly. make sure that take-
up (F) is centered in cast-off plate slot (C) and take-up eyelet (B) is
centered to take-up (F). Tighten screws (E).
FIG. 35
TENSION RELEASE
The tension releaseshould start to function when the presser foot has
raised approximately 1/32" (0.8mm) above the surface of the throat
plate and be entirely released when the presser foot has reached its
highest position. Insert a large screwdriver into slot on the right end
of shaft (A, Fig. 36), loosen screw (B) in lifter lever (C) and turn the
screwdriver to raise or lower pins (D). Tighten screw (B).
NOTE: Make sure the 1/32" (0.8mm) clearance between the
presser bar lifter lever and presser bar guide has been
maintained. Refer to Fig. 22 if readjustment is neces-
sary.
FIG. 36
20
Loading...