Union Special N150-1, N150-2, N150-5 User Manual

CATALOG NO.

Adjusting instructions and

N194-5

Flr•t E dltlon

STYLES

N150-1 N150-2

N150-5

illustrated parts list

CLASS N 1

Finest Quality

50

- B

lin

dstitch

m

achines

CATALOG

NO.

Nl94-5

ADJUSTING

INSTRUCTIONS

AND

ILLUSTRATED

CLASS

STYLES

Nl50-l Nl50-2 Nl50-5

First

Copyright

By

Union

Special Corporation

PART

Nl50

Edition

1986

LIST

Rights

Reserved

Printed in

July,

in

1986

2

All

Countries

U.S.A.

IDENTIFICATION

OF

t4ACHINES

into is

stamped

1

is

ted back, unless

Each

the

This

etc.,

otherwise noted.

Single

UNION

style

in

catalog

herein.

are

SPECIAL

plate

the

boss

All

taken from

Thread, Needle Travels from Line-of-Feed.

Adjustment Stitch Former.

Lengths.

Maximum

Nl50-l 1

light,

medium

materials.

1~150-2

skip similar

stitch

garments.

Calibrated

of

the

Knee

Work

to

and heavy weight

Seam

specifications

Equipped with quick change

for

henuning

located

applies

references

Single

Left

Stitch

Lifter

Space

1

ratio

Seam

specifications

LEWIS

to

Penetration

machine

on

the

on

the

APPLICATIOI

specifically

to

direction,

the

operator's

DESCRIPTION

front

top

·J

carries

of

right

OF

CATALOG

to

the

position

OF

MACHINES

Curved Needle, Chain

Right and

Penetrates

Adjustment,

a

style

the

machine arm.

rear

of

standard

such as

while

Stitch,

Push

machine arm.

right

at

an

Button,

Length and a Large Easy-to-Read

for

to

Right

non-skip

103 EFl-1

medium

Inserting

of

Needle 7

stitch

materials,

weight

103 EFl-1

and

1/2

machine

and

or

103

selector

dresses,

Removing

inches (177.8mm).

for

also

EFm-1

felling

(modified).

dial

for

skirts,

or

103

EFm-1

number

styles

and 1

seated

Blind

Angle

Indicator

Work,

henuning

edge

non-skip

blouses,

(modified).

which

The

at

serial

of

machines

eft,

the

is

front

Stitch

90

degrees

for

Quick Easy

Marked

Oscillating

on

dresses

tape,

and

or

curtains

stamped

number

as

and

machine,

Machine.

to

with

Ridge

of

knit

2

to

1

and

weight

TO

PREVENT

- All adjusting

-

Wear

- All

-DO

NOT

Nl50-5 trousers,

THIS

PERSONAL

power

sources or

safety

shields

tamper with

Same

as

slacks

SAFETY

SYI~BOL

INJURY:

to

the

replacing glasses. and guards

safety

Style

and

machine

parts.

MUST

Nl50-l

similar

INDICATES

MUST

be

in

shields,

except

garments.

SAFETY RUl,.ES

CAUTION!

position

guards,

YOUR

be

TURNED

for

Seam

PERSONAL

before etc.,

hemi

ng

cuffs

specification

SAFETY

OFF

before

operating

while machine

and

cuffl

103 EFl-1.

IS

INVOLVED

threading,

machine.

is

in

ess

medium

oiling,

operation.

3

starts.

125

seconds

marked

The

machine

Use a good

at

in red.

should

be

grade of

100

degrees Fahrenheit.

However,

reference to the

oiled

straight

OILING

twice

daily,

before the

morning

and

mineral oil with a Saybolt viscosity of

Most

of

oiling

the

oiling

diagram will

points

be

OILING

on

the

machine

beneficial.

SPEED

afternoon

90

to

are

Maximum

direction

of the

Selection

material used.

good

stitch

sample label.

as

far

needle

To

When

which

formation.

have

needle,

A complete order

changing the needle,

as

it

result.

recommended

handwheel

of

proper needle size

Thread

should pass freely through needle

speed for these machines

is

away

29

BM-075/029

29

BM-090/036

needle orders promptly or

the type

will

may

go

have a hooked

and

would

tighten

number

or blunt point, as improper needle penetration will

from

the operator.

NEEDLES

NEEDLE

29

BL-065/025

29

BL-075/029

29

BL-090/036

29

BL-100/040

29

BL-11

is

determined

and

should

CHANGING

make

sure

clamp

is

3000

R.P.M., operating

TYPE

0/044 (ball point) (ball point)

by

accurately

be

forwarded.

needles,

size

filled,

Type

eye

Use

29

BL-90/036

of thread

and

weight

in order to produce a

an

empty

the description

11

package, a

•

NEEDLES

that

it

is

inserted in the needle

carrier

screw securely. Immediately discard

of

on

any

4

To

thread the machine, turn

carrier

is

in

its

highest position.

Refer to the threading diagram (Fig.l ).

Additional thread control

pull-off

eye 1 et

(A,

thread, as required.

Fig

.1

) to the

THREADING

handwheel

Fig. 1

can

be

obtained

right

for

ADJUSTING

in operating direction

by

repositioning needle thread

more

thread or to the 1

until

eft

the needle

for 1 ess

A

view

of

the foot

Below

is

labeling as A-Needle

guide

ADJUSTING

of the presser foot (Fig.2)

which

the

shown

are referred to in

key

to

the

in Fig.2

PRESSER

FOOT

is

this

and

H

TO

NEEDLE

shown

to

illustrate

subsequent adjustments.

B-Cloth opening C-Needle

D-Looper E-Radius run-out F-Cloth G-Set H-Needle J-Cloth K-Eccentric

track opening

retainer

screw

groove

retainer

edge

bushing

L-Chaining finger

Insert a new of proper type far

as

it

will

and

the presser foot to the needle

(A,Fig.2)

when

needle

size

as Fig. 2

go

into the needle

traveling

from

carrier

so

left

and

securely tighten the

the needle point contacts the needle guide

to

right

and

so

that contact with the needle guide until the point of the needle the center of the cloth opening needle continues to the needle guide

move

until

to the

the needle reaches the needle track (C).

(~)

and

right,

the

right

side

of

play should develop

the various

clamp

screw. Set

the needle remains in

lies

in the

span

the cloth opening.

between

the needle

parts

between

As

the and

5

ADJUSTING

If

(A,Fig.3) heads on retighten foot at a time,

(B)

top

do

the

side

up.

have been

screws

PRESSER

adjustment

on

top

not

contact of

screws

Adjust

to

obtain

tightened,

(A)

should

of

each

(B) the

FOOT

is

presser

the

bracket,

just

top

the

above

no

be

attempted.

TO

NEEDLE

required,

foot

brackets.

move

enough

screws

(A)

settings.

further

(Continued)

loosen

brackets,

Loosen screws

presser

to

hold

equally, adjustment

so

that

foot

the

a 1 i

After

screws

the

(B)

up,

presser

ttl

screws

of

the

e

Fig. 3

manner. Turn with

the

right

the

handwheel

side

Fig. 4

of

the

Turn

the

needle

should be

(D,Fig.2). should be this have

in

cloth

is

operating

opening

the

handwheel

point

flush

to

not

to

rubber screw hole).

direction extreme cover

(A, punch marks viewed stud the recheck relation Loosen

and setting. front flush wall

may

advance desired

with

The

needle

the

case,

be

direction

(B,Fig.2)

plug ( A,Fi

in

and

Fig.5)

in

is

located

top.

the

needle

rotate

to

at

the

be

results.

SETTING

is

at

the 1 eft

point,

top

of

the

adjusted

unti 1 the

in

needle

Turn

until

right

turn

(Fig.5).

to

The

back

.003

necessary

the

end

the

So

that

in

Retighten

position

the

carrier

needle

so

inch

right

above

NEEDLE

in

operating

the

left

at

radius

travel

the

g.4).

crank

handwheel

the

needle

of

needle

its

the

ball

The

in

the

left

the

(.076

side

to

STROKE

direction

end

of

side

(accessible

of side

as

carrier

side

adjustments

of

1 ooper opening

right

run-out

in

needle

presser

travel.

slot

needle

head,

the

clamp screw

required

of

slightly

end

of

the

Loosen

carrier

eccentric

is

stud

eccentric

at

clamp screw and

needle

of

looper

should be

of

the

mm)

presser

stroke.

of

edge

needle

following

eye

foot.

the

through

in

operating

is

Remove

ball

vertical

are

down,

the

rear

(C,Fig.3)

for

needle

from

foot. retard to

until

stroke,

(E).

will

is

flush

Remove

clamp

the

at

its head stud

and

as ball near

point

opening.

vertical

in

above

set

is

or

obtain

It

If

It

Fig. 5

CAUTION: ball

against

that

flat clearance 1 ooper

6

stud,

the

LOOPER

Insert

the

flat

in

carrier

carrier.

When

make

needle

between

adjusting

sure

shaft

TIMING

the

looper

on

its

and

looper

the

that

crank.

AND

ADJUSTMENT

into

shank

allow

1/64

shoulder

needle

it

its

corresponds

eccentric

is

carrier

inch

and end

seated

so

with

(.4mm)

of

LOOPER

(A,Fig.6)

crank direction

mai

(A,Fig.7)

position

lines groove

(B)

Turn

nshaft

up

in

TIMING

the

In

is

a

is a timing

the

until

is

at

in

the

crank

with

the

mainshaft

AND

ADJUSTMENT

left

nyu

the

end

of

groove and

mark.

handwheel

the

bottom. Loosen

nyu

looper

so

that

right

(see

edge

(Continued) the

mainshaft

on

the

in

operating

groove

two crank the

Fig.6).

(B) and timing of

looper

in

screws

the

mark

nyu

Fig. 6

Again direction center looper

(D),

(using just looper securely. the

(A,Fig.8)

eye.

(2.4mm),

yoke clamp screw

on

clears

carrier

distance

The

Fig. 7

rotate

unti 1 the

line

the

of

spot

looper

on

distance

as

carrier

flat)

the

Tighten yoke clamp screw

shown

until

spot

shaft

from

the

in

the

1 ong prong

or

scarf (C,Fig.6)

shaft.

the

on

scarf

from moving and

the

right

looper

should be

(Fig.8).

to

drive

crank side

inside (103.2nm). See

approximate

handwheel

of

the 1 ooper

of

needle. and

Roll

long

of

side

the

approximately

prong

the

of

left

the

needle.

tighten securely.

securely.

of

in

loosen

looper

of

the

1 ong prong

end

Hold

eccentric

The

of

operating

Loosen

the

of

3/32

crank

approximate

the

front

link

setting.

is

over

lock

shaft

looper

Hold

lock

Check

needle

inch

the nut

and

ball

Fig.6.

(B,Fig.7)

tighten

distance

to

the

should

This

against

screws

near

be 4

in 1 ooper

from

edge

l/16

is

merely an

needle

the

of

inches

back

the

If

adjustment

Fig.

9

screw machine and

(B,Fig.8)

screw. direction short

presser 1/32

(A,Fig.9)

prong

foot.

inch

(.8mm)

move

left

Rotate and check

of

7

is

as

viewed from 1 ooper

or

right, handwheel

the

looper There

clearance.

and

should

Fig.

required,

eccentric

then

distance

chaining

be

8

loosen

left

tighten

in

between

approximately

clamp

end

sleeve

clamp

operating

finger

of

the

on

LOOPER

TIMING

AND

ADJUSTMENT

(Continued)

Fig. 10

Fig.

11

---

and not

Rotate

make

strike

handwheel

sure the short

looper opening in presser foot,

in operating

prong

of

(see Fig.lO).

If

adjustment

screw (A,Fig.9)

to

(B,Fig.8) required, tighten

operating

Fi

does

g.

needle

(see

If

until

clamp

direction

11

adjustment

the

this

screw. Rotate the

not

) •

screw (A,Fig.7)

as required

Rotate

until

handwheel

to ensure needle

distance

Fig.ll).

clamp

between

If

adjustment

screw (A,Fig.9)

is

required, loosen

and

strike

and

this

move

left

condition

and

check to ensure the

looper sleeve

the

LEAST

is

the crotch of looper

is

required, 1

turn crank

condition

in operating

enters

approximately equal

the prongs of looper (see

is

required, loosen

and

carefully looper eccentric sleeve (B,Fig.8) condition move

eccentric sleeve 1 clamp AND

ADJUSTMENT" settings driving crank Different materials may

require a

If

necessary, only needle and

nut carrier retighten nut

is

obtai ned, being careful not to

eft

or

screw securely.

has

NOTE:

been

a coordination

basicly involving looper

slightly

(D)

to

achieve desired conditions •••

and

and slight

permitting

looper eccentric sleeve.

or

different

variation

roll

by

loosening screw (C,Fig.6)

the looper to the

rotation

screw.

right.

"LOOPER

direction

1 ooper does

clamp

AMOUNT obtained handwheel

oosen

(B)

slightly

is

obtained.

direction

rotate

until

this

Tighten

TIMING

carrier,

threads

of

used

settings.

of looper

and

in

set

of

SETTING

Pressure

regulated

by

nuts (A,Fig.l2). Turning

counterclockwise increases the tension

A

Fig.

12

turning vi

e\~ed

screw inside uniformly

them

clockwise

in (Fig. 12). Set spring pressure

is

approximately 1 /16 inch

edge

8

of

when

nut.

knee

FEED

on

The

shaft

PLATES

the feed

acts

feed

the reverse, as

plates

is

depressed.

plates

(1

•

6mm) must

is

them

and

so from drop

If

and

move

clearance

adjustment

depressing

between .

1/3?"

(.Bmm)

feed

is

required,

plates

SETTING

plate

and

FEED

loosen

shaft

depressing

PLATES

(B)

Fig.

set

so

screw there shaft.

13

(Continued)

(A,Fig.l3)

is

approximately

Tighten

set

•

in

front

screw

A

1/32

securely.

of

inch

cylinder

(.8mm)

If

adjustment scre\'1 (B) which release

by Adjust

required shaft

Tighten pressure turning

(B)

tension

turning

pivot

cradle

set nut

is

flush

nut

bearing

to

remove

screw

on

(A,Fig.l6)

with

Fig.

14

locks on

(A,Fig.l6)

(C,Fig.l7)

(B,Fig.l5)

cradle

screwdriver

is

required,

pivot

cradle

(C,Fig.l5)

shake,

spring

clockwise

selector position, as former the shake

loosen

bearing

spring

counterclockwise.

(B,Fig.l7)

but

ridge

MUST

securely.

(A,Fig.l7)

slots

(C) and

(A,Fig.l7)

former

NOT

until

in

nut.

BIND.

Apply

screw

On

follows

disc

cloth

(left

set

as

by

SETTING

Style

(A,Fig.l4)

as

opening

or

Nl50-2,

shown

for

all

(A,Fig.l5)

right).

RIDGE

in

Fig.

machine

of

presser

FORMER

set

the

14.

must be

Fig.

15

skip

Then

Styles.

centered

foot

stitch stitch

proceed

Ridge

with

in

no

9

in

cloth screw (B,Fig.l4) in screw (C,Fig.l4) in ridge former allowing ridge former

moved

as required. in

position,

former

(B,Fig.l4) securely. Temporarily

screw

Fig.

16

Ridge controls the maximum

penetration

former regulator (A,Fig.l8)

amount

of

needle penetration

(9

on

the

dial).

at

The needle should graze the ridge former disc enough needle guide of presser foot. is turn adjusting as required. Replace screw (B). right so its of needle

to note the needle

required.

Remove

screw

The

needle

should

that

farthest

be

timed with the ridge former

when

the ridge former

travel

is

over the center of the width

lifting

off

If

adjustment

locking screw

(located beneath

and

tighten locking

movi

ny

from 1 eft

has

to

the

rear,

of the

(B)

and

same)

to

reached

the point

of

the ridge former.

SETTING

If

RIDGE

ridge former disc

opening

laterally

While

thrust

shaft

(C)

cradle

in ridge former

(A6

v-i..ewed

FORMER

of

collar shaft

(Continued)

is

presser

(E,Fig.l7) to

not centered

foot,

loosen

(D,Fig.l7)

shaft

lever,

and

be

to position ridge former disc

holding ridge former disc

collar

(C)

(D)

and

against ridge

tighten screw

tighten

shaft

6Jtom

Fig.

lever.

bot:tom

17

o6

mac.IU.ne.J

Fig. 18

loosen

screw

(C,Fig.l4)

and

set

ridge former disc the required

distance past needle as

(Fig.l9).

this

position

tightening

Hold

and

screw

rid~e

to

the

(B)

securely.

viewed

in

former disc in

right

while

At

1/16 inch

former rotate

handwheel

this

(1.6mm)

disc.

time, the needle should

If

in operating

the point of needle

width

of

ridge former

from

the

adjustment

is

over the

disc.

Fig.

front

direction

center

19

of

the ridge

is

required

be

until

of the

10

SETTING

As

the needle

left,

plates right Feed

the feed

when

point of needle

side of cloth opening behind needle.

dog

should depress feed approximately the depth of The

feed

dog

is screws (A,Fig.20) head.

be

The

vertical

slot

when

in eccentric stud

towards the operator the

end

of the

To

(A,Fig.21)

retighten

to

rotate

slot

position stud, loosen

and

position stud as required,

clamp

the

screw.

punch

FEED

DOG

travels

dog

adjusted

should contact feed

by

on

the

right

the feed bar

and

the

in stud should

It

may

marks

from

is

flush with

one

full tooth.

means

side

(B)

is

all

punch

clamp

be

slightly,

right

plates

of

two

of

the

should

the

way

marks

be

up.

screw

necessary

(in

to

at

stud) to obtain a full tooth depth for

shorter

numbers

of

stitches.

Fig. 20

CAUTION: chaining finger slot

whi

in presser foot.

1 e operating direction until finger

Feed

dog

must

or

the

STITCH

not graze looper,

back

of the feed

LENGTH

Press plunger (A,Fig.22)

ho

1 ding p 1 unger

in,

turn

stitch

is

felt

to

drop

into the

in

firmly,

handwhee

regulating

slot

of feed

dog

1 in

regulator. Continuing to hold the plunger

in,

turn increase the direction Observe handwheel guard

correct

handwheel

stitch

to

in

length or in opposite

decrease the

the white timing

with the

and

stitch

graduation

numbers

length then release

operating direction

on

plate

stitch

mark

the upper

to obtain the

length.

on

belt

knob.

to

the

Fig.

21

A

22

11

CLOTH

RETAINER

Cloth

as

close

loosening

retainer

as

possible to the needle. Right to

set

screw

(A,Fig.23) should

(B), repositioning bushing (C), as required screw. Front to rear adjustment turn eccentric pin

When

sewing ridge former disc be

applied to the cloth

bushing

former disc

NOTE:

(C)

as required, being careful to

and

Recheck

(E)

as required

on

material,

••• otherwise

retighten

cloth

retainer

skip-stitching

retainer

set

screw. setting

the cloth

be

centered over ridge former disc

left

can

be

accomplished

and

retighten

retainer

may

by

loosening

keep

to needle.

ILLUSTRATIONS

This catalog has simplify ordering views

are

their

page a

number,

of various sections of the

shown

actual position in the machine.

opposite the i

listing

description

required in the

adjustment

by

set

screw.

must

hold material firmly against

occur.

set

screw

cloth

retainer

ORDERING

can

loosening

More

or

(B,Fig.23)

centered over ridge

REPAIR

been

repair

so

that

the parts

11

us

tra

ti

of the parts with

and

the

particular

view

be

accomplished

and

retighten

set

screw

less

pressure can

and

PARTS

arranged to

parts.

may

be

on

wi

11

their

number

being

and

set

by

set

(D),

rotate

Exploded

mechanism

seen in

On

the

be

found

part

of pieces

shown.

Fig.

the position of used

indicated

in ordering

Component

by

parts

23

that

part

parts.

of

indenting

in the

Always

illustration.

use the

sub-assemblies

their

descriptions under the description of the

reference

part

wnich

Numbers

numbers

Reference

number

can

in the

listed

be

first

only

and

numbers

in the second

column

are merely indicate should never

be

column.

furnished for repairs are

main

sub-assembly.

At

the

in

this

only the

back

book.

part

of the

This will

number

is

book

will

facilitate

known.

be

found locating the

a numerical index of

illustration

all

the

and

description

parts

shown

when

TERMS

Prices are net cash

and

subject to

change

without notice.

All

shipments are

forwarded F.O.B. shipping point. Parcel Post shipments are insured unless otherwise

directed.

~charge

is

made

to cover postage

and

insurance.

12