INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
SlYLES
59400K
59400R
C 0 L U M B I
A®
MACHINES
8
TALOG
No.
136M
Second
Edition
CL
ASS 594
ADVANCED
FIFTY
LOOPER
THOUSAND
IN-LINE-OF-FEED
FLAT BED
WITH
··
UNION SPECIAL
PINKING
C HICA
00
HIGH SPEED
SERIES
MACHINES
ATTACHMENT
CORPORATION
GO
C a t a 1 o g N
o.
1 3 6 M
I N S T R U C T I 0 N S
F 0 R
A D J U S T I N G A N D 0 P E R A T I N G
L I S T 0 F P A R T S
F o r S t y 1 e s
5 9 4 0 0 K 5 9 4 0 0 R
S e c o n d E d i t i o n
@ 1 9 7 1
b y
U n i o n S p e c i a 1 C o r p o r a t i o n
R i g h t s R e s e r v e d i n A 1 1 C o u n t r i e s
UNION SPECIAL CORPORATION
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
CH IC A
MACHINES
GO
P r i n t e d i n
U.
S. A.
2
~
-----
----
September,l975
IDENTIFICATION
OF
MACHINES
Each Union
the
machine.
numbers
ample:
minor
Style
which
"Class
herein.
in
given
of
handwheel
Traveling
Trimmings.
Bearing
System,
Belt
have
"Style
changes
number. Example:
Styles
differs
59400".
This
this
Class.
from
Advanced High Speed
Needle
Filtered
Guard. Equipped
Style
one
of
catalog
It
can
the
is
in
Line
Light
Special
numbers
or
more
59400 K".
are
made
machines
from
the
applies
also
be
Reference
operator's
toward
With
Weight
Bar
Drive,
Oil
Return
with
machine
are
letters
Special
in a standard
"Style
similar
style
specifically
applied
to
position
the
operator.
Single
Feed,
Presser
Single
Disc
is
classified
suffixed,
Style
59400 KZ".
in
number,
APPLICATION
with
direction,
STYLES
Needle
Equipped With
Bar and Weight
Reservoir
Pump
for
Type
identified
as
but
numbers
machine,
construction
in
that
OF
CATALOG
to
the
discretion
such
as
while
Thread
seated
OF
MACHINES
Flat
Bed
Pinking
Enclosed
Head and
Tensions.
by a Style
standard
never
contain
a "Z"
it
Standard
right,
Needle
Base,
is
are
grouped
contains
to
some
at
the
Machine,
Attachment,
Positive
Large
number on a name
and
special.
contain
the
suffixed
Styles
Special
left,
machine.
Bar
the
letter
under a Class
no
letter.
front,
Low
Throw, With Looper
Driving
Automatic
Handwheel and Improved
Standard
letter
"Z".
to
the
of
machines
Styles
back,
Operating
Front
Mechanism,
Example:
Disposal
plate
"Z".
When
Standard
number
as
of
machines
etc.,
direction
Lubricating
on
Style
Ex-
only
listed
are
of
Needle
59400
neously
slips,
where
tion
401-SSa-1.
59400
width
width
width
simultaneously
half
material.
Type 133
width
width
of
59400
of
59400
of
59400
slips,
59400
of
59400
of
K-3/16
pinking
blouses,
back-tacking
K-1/4
pink
K-3/8
pink
K-5/8
pink
R-3/16
Width
GS
R-1/4
pink
R-3/8
pink
Equipped
on women's
robes
Type 133
Same
and
with
Same
and
with
Same
and
with
Equipped
pinking
blouses,
of
needle.
Same
and
with
Same
and
with
and
is
required.
as
parts
as
parts
as
parts
on women's
robes
pink
Maximum
as
parts
as
parts
with
slacks,
similar
GS
needle.
Style
Style
Style
3/16
Style
Style
59400
furnished
59400
furnished
59400
furnished
with
and
similar
inch
recommended
59400
furnished
59400
furnished
reverse
street
garments
Width
Maximum
K-3/16,
K-3/16,
K-3/16,
upper
slacks,
(4.76
R-3/16
R-3/16
feed
dresses,
made
of
pink
for
5/16
for
1/2
for
3/4
driven
street
garments
mm).
speed
except
for
5/16
except
for
1/2
mechanism,
uniform
of
light
3/16
inch
recommended
except
except
except
close-coupled
5500 R.P.M.
inch
prepared
inch
prepared
inch
inch
Seam
(12.70
prepared
(19.05
dresses,
made
specification
prepared
inch
prepared
(12.70
(7.94
of
(7.94
for
dresses,
to
(4.76
speed
mm)
mm)
mm)
puller,
uniform
light
mm)
mm)
seaming
medium
for
for
for
for
for
weight
mm).
5500 R.P.M.
1/4
width
3/8
width
5/8
width
for
dresses,
to
medium
401-SSa-1.
1/4
width
3/8
width
and
simulta-
slips,
material
Seam
inch
of
inch
of
inch
of
inch
of
inch
of
specifica-
(6.35
pink.
(9.52
pink.
(15.88
pink.
seaming and
weight
(6.35
pink.
(9.52
pink.
half
mm)
mm)
mm)
slips,
mm)
mm)
3
STYLES
OF
MACHINES
(Continued)
59400
width
to
number
The
measured
ively,
the
round
chromium
needle,
A
used.
stitch
of
NOTE:
point
Each Union
size
label
Standard
point,
To
complete
Selection
R-5/8
pink
of
denotes
number,
the
plated
have
or
Thread
formation.
and
Fraction
pinking
the
in
thousandths
type
of
all
needle
short,
needle
the
type
order
of
should
Same
Special
number and
needles
and
would
as
with
stamped
denotes
knife.
kind
for
double
is
orders
and
the
pass
parts
available
read:
proper
Style
needle
of
on
of
packaged
Styles
size
59400
furnished
the
has
shank,
the
needle
an
inch,
the
size
groove,
promptly
number
"1000
needle
freely
R-3/16
width
59400 K and R
in
through
of
NEEDLES
both a type
point,
shank,
midway
number
and
sold
struck
sizes
and
should
Needles,
size
except
for
3/4
pink,
length,
between
is
by
groove,
032,
accurately
be
Type 133
should
the
prepared
inch
measured
number and
groove,
denotes
the
the
complete
Union
is
Type 133
spiral
90/036,
filled,
forwarded.
be
determined
needle
eye
for
5/8
(19.05
Special.
GS,
mm)
width
from
centerline
size
number. The
finish
the
largest
shank
GS.
groove,
100/040, 110/044,
an
Use
Size
in
order
and
and
symbol,
It
empty
description
036".
by
inch
other
diameter
the
which
has a round
ball
package, a sample
the
to
produce
of
eye.
eye,
size
(15.88
pink.
of
details.
of
Collect-
is
spotted,
049,
on
of
needle
type
blade
given
shank,
054.
label.
thread
a good
mm)
on
Success
of
needles
reputation
more
than
in
the
operation
packaged
for
three-quarters
under
producing
of
Union
our
brand
highest
of a century.
name,
quality
Special
~
needles
machines
in
materials
can
,
be
secured
which
and
only
by
is
backed
workmanship
by a
use
for
4
FILL
MAIN
RESERVOIR
HERE
While
marked
"OPERATE".
BRICATION"
THREADING
machine
is
For
and
"RECOMMENDED
AND
in
operation
further
CAUTION!
FILL
ALL
BEFORE
MACHINE
BEFORE
OILING
lubricating
OIL".
OIL
RESERVOIRS
STARTING.
HAS
BEEN
SHIPPING.
DIAGRAM
the
needle
DRAINED
FOR
STYLES
of
the
instructions
59400 K
oil
refer
gauge
FOR
CORRECT
OIL
LEVEL
NEEDLE
SHOULD
OPERATE
AND
R
should
to
paragraph
OF
GAUGE
BE
IN
POSITION
be
in
on "LU-
Fig.
the
1
band
Thread
needle
direction
to
left.
is
inserted
of
Also
machine
in
in
line-of-feed,
note
that
accordance
the
needle
the
the
looper
bar
spot
with
with
or
is
the
threading
the
scarf
to
threaded
5
eye
in a plane
the
from
diagram
left,
back
and
to
above.
at
right
is
threaded
front.
Note
angles
that
to
from
the
the
right
H
~~
. OIL
VAPOR
SPLASH
ACTION
OIL RESERVOIR
FEED
OIL
FROM
CRANKSHAFT
,.,
LEFT
BUSHING
k
I '
, \
\ I
~.I
BoiL
RETURN
SCREW
BY-PASS
6
WITH
OUTLET
M
ADVANCED
FLATBED
LUBRICATION
SYSTEM
Figure
Letter
A.
B.
c.
D.
E.
F.
G.
Bearing
Crankshaft
and
Needle
Head
ings).
Looper
lever
Opposing
end
vents
s
haft
R1ght
Left
tric
or
crankshaft
lever
area
drive
bearings.
of
mainshaft.
oil
bearing.
mainshaft
main
bearings
Machine
drives,
(all
mechanisms
Helical
leakage
shaft
bearing and
located
Area
upper
bearings.
cross
crank,
shaft
grooves
Short
from
bearing.
on
SUPPLY
ball
bearing.
and
looper
in
groove
right
all
eccen-
mainshaft.
straps
bear-
drive
right
pre-
main-
SYSTEM
Method
Oil
ions
rods.
Oil
supplied
Mist
Oil
(56343
connecting
Oil
splash
Supply
shaft.
Oil
andmeteredby
troduced
right
Amount
shaft
in
of
Lubrication
agitation
on
trough
as a result
agitationas a result
E)
drip
in
grooves
supplied
controlled
right
needle
by
splash
on
bottom
rod.
plate
chamber.
from
into
mains
of
lubricant
end
of
as a result
(51282
lever
AE)
in
of
splash
of
which
in
right
hollow
felt
plugs.
center
mainshaft.
haft
with
of
bearing
of
extens-
connecting
which
column
looper
accumulates
end
shaft
in
by-pass
area.
in
column.
ofsplasher
drive
of
main-
mainshaft
Oilis
in
area.
center
hole
is
inthe
of
H.
I.
J.
K.
Figure
Letter
L.
M.
Lower
mainshaft
Looper
rocker
per
rod
Right
joint.
Feed
rocker
Machine
Head
Base
looper
rocker
shaft
ends
eccentrics.
cone,
shaft
bearings,
ball
joint.
bearings.
Area
of
connecting
right
rod
shaft
and
and
needle
and
upper
rods
left
looper
left
bearing
RETURN
of
loo-
feed
SYSTEM
Oil
run-out
supplies.
Supplied
shaft
yarn
Oil
to
lubricating
Self-lubricated
Method
Felt
pump
primed
bearing.
Feltpad
return
and
accumulates
chamber.
from
which
as a metering
supplied
of
Return
pad
in
head
located
by
oil
inbasecollects
pump
primed
from
eccentric
hollow
contains 4 strands
from
plate
bearings.
on
from
located
by
oil
splash
looper
device.
front
(56393
collects
crankshaft
left
on
drip
in
base
K).
oil.
crankshaft
oil.
crankshaft
plate
looper
bearing
rocker
of
felt
Return
and
Second
which
drive
7
INSTRUCTIONS
LUBRICATION
FOR
MECHANICS
CAUTION!
reservoir
before
the
beginning
oil
damage.
Use a
Fahrenheit
No.
175.
check
and
is
to
the
should
zone,
28604
be
marked
R.
CAUTION!
It
extended
directly
bar.
several
ing
Replace
will
minutes
parts.
For
dirt
and
If
dirty,
commended
drained
screw
at
crank
(C,
front
chamber
machine.
Oil
must
be
to
the
various
straight
in
the
Fill
main
oil
level
black
added when
"LOW".
It
is
recommended
period
oil
be
the
head
be
required.
machines
lint
deposits
change
every
2000
from main
Fig.
of
2)
the
machine,
cover,
has
been
filled
to
operate.
to
parts.
mineral
main
reservoir.
reservoir
at
gauge (A).
line,
located
needle
The recommended
is
important
that
lubricated
needle
cover
bar
as
Run
to
distribute
in
operation
at
the
oil.
operating
reservoir
located
or
located
drained
the
proper
Run
machine
Full
RECOMMENDED
oil
of a Saybolt
This
at
plug
Oil
to
the
is
to
that
a new
link
no
machine
machine,
as
follows:
and
further
slowly
oil
to
check
reasonable
An
oil
change
hours.
by removing
below
the
by
removing
at
the
from
speed
screw
is
right
the
black
oil
these
the
hand
the
the
intervals.
Oil
cloth
back
the
level
slowly
operation
OIL
is
equivalent
in
at
maximum
of
line,
is
available
machines
or
Remove
needle
oil-
for
various
oil
is
re-
may
plug
plate
the
lower
of
main
as
indicated
reservoir
for
viscosity
upper
"OPERATE"
located
not
one
that
the
for
be
several
can
then
of
to
Union
crank
safe
operating
zone,
in
16
be
has
head
before
on
oil
gauge (A,
minutes
be
expected
90
to
125
Special
chamber
marked "FULL".
to
the
left
fluid
over
been
cover,
ounce
filled.
out
clean
shipment,
to
distribute
tithout
,.
seconds
specification
cover
level
(B,
when
of
"OPERATE"
cans
of
service
out
I
••
..---
L
---
..J
so
Fig.
at
Fig.
No.
lint
the
2)
100°
2)
needle
Oil
for
and
B
7
G
an
NOTE:
eccentric
assembling
lines
screw
up
is
The machine
lubricated,
drop
of
arm,
upper
looper
throw-out
locking
NOTE:
ment
shaft
to
front
lubricating
receive
be
with
in
oil
and
pin,
All
be
oiled
The
take-up
sure
oil
time
spot.
is
and no
between
lower
pin,
are
required.
moving
twice
and
rear,
both
sides
oil
oil
holes
almost
oiling
the
retainer
drive
thru
holes
in
loop
and
parts
daily.
also
of
and
the
mainshaft,
in
the
mainshaft
entirely
other
than
retainer
arm
looper
of
the
Oil
oil
two
lever
bearings
feed
lift
eccentric
when
automatically
an
occasional
driving
supports,
holder
frame
pinking
knife
oil
lever
holes
so
spot
attach-
and
8
when
the
for
knife
Fig.
2
RECOMMENDED
OIL
(Continued)
haler
voir.
followed:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
shaft.
The
Should
Place
Remove
drain
Make
Remove
Fill
shaft
Loosen
or
right
of
"OPERATE"
Tighten
oil
gauge
an
the
the
oil
sure
lower
main
bushing
lock
until
lock
Major
machine
from
all
reservoir
pinker
is
adjustment
oil
reservoir
the
oil
crank
(D,
nut
(E) on
the
zone,
nut
set
at
upright
reservoir.
is
drained
chamber
to a level
Fig.
gauge
marked
(E) and
oiling
become
2).
calibrating
needle
points
the
factory
necessary,
on a
plug
screw
from
cover,
"LOW".
replace
OIL
level
even
GAUGE
the
located
screw
rests
plug
are
to
table
(C,
main
with
on
screw
marked
show
the
however,
or
bench.
Fig.
2) and
reservoir.
at
the
the
bottom
{F),
and
the
black
(C) and
in
RED
proper
the
back
turn
line,
on
oil
following
tip
machine
of
the
contour
the
located
lower
the
attachment.
level
machine.
of
screw
crank
in
steps
forward
the
knee
to
the
to
the
chamber
the
reser-
should
to
press
left
left
cover.
be
8.
Add
"OPERATE"
of
needle
upper
is
tilted
bed
casting
(Do
not
ance
oil
so
Remove
crank
as
ADJUSTING
Put
Fig.
the
lever
chamber
downwardly and
at
allow
in
Figure
in a new
4A
that
zone,
head
bearing
the
the
THE
(FOR
gauge
marked "FULL".
cover,
back,
oiler
3.
FEED
STYLE
needle
needle
cover
and
oiler
which
that
just
to
rest
MECHANISM
59400 K
of
proper
Place
support
support
check
middle.
mounting
using
segment
THREAD).
shaft
the
the
that
The
gauge
(E) by
gauge
upper
rests
NEEDLE
upper
(A,
lubricates
its
above
on
ONLY)
throat
and
shim
the
Then, remove
of
feed
No.
(B),
Adjust
fits
part
on
LEVER
crank
Fig.
3)
delivery
the
the
needle
WITH A GAUGE
type
throat
on
the
needle
gauge
mechanism
G21227 L (A,
loosen
the
the
regulating
into
of
the
BEARING
chamber
located
the
end
notch
and
size.
plate
plate
bed
enters
these
for
setting
nut
feed
the
the
segment
black
OILER
needle
(C)
of
the
lever).
to
parts
is
set
(C).
crank
screw
hole
line,
cover
inside
contacts
(G,
the
lever
needle
Allow
located
Fig.
arm
stud
the
lever
1/64
~
l~~
£t.'omm)
the
throat
for
the
feed
in
the
Fig.
4).
(CAUTION!
stud
(F)
of
the
of
the
plate
adjusting
mechanism.
assembly
To
NUT
(D)
in
so
that
feed
rocker
rocker
to
the
2).
Check
casting,
(B).
Make
inside
inch
shaft
wall
stop
(.40
c
----
Fig.
3
slot
the
department
adjust
HAS A LEFT
the
(B)
slot
the
shaft,
is
feed
pin
right
position
below
sure
of
collar.
mm)
in
the
looper
rocker
HAND
of
(G)
when
in
its
of
the
it
the
clear-
and
by
main
of
end
9
ADJUSTING
THE
(FOR
FEED
MECHANISM
STYLE
59400 K
WITH A GAUGE
ONLY)
(Continued)
position
of
casting
rocker
until
set
segment
distance
in
SEGMENT
(B)
the
stop
For
After
both
CAUTION!
to
the
needle.
wall,
and
head
ring
the
of
the
gauge (Q) and
this
directions.
(B,
and
press
of
screw
(N)
against
adjustment
rocker
adjustment
ADJUSTING
BE
SURE
Fig.
4)
place
the
(B).
For
THAT
AND
Tighten
distance
sliding
(L)
contacts
lever
of
reverse
Move
set
the
the
correction,
THE
THERE
THE
BED
nut
block
(P).
the
stop
stitch
FEED
(FOR
IS
AT
(C).
Loosen clamp
gauge
stop
feed,
sliding
ring
reset
MECHANISM
STYLE
1/32
THE
(J),
against
(M)
place
(R)
length
stop
59400 K
INCH
LARGEST
"marked V",
the
distance
of
the
distance
block
against
should
with
be
ring
WITHOUT
ONLY)
(.79
mm)
STITCH
screw
gauge.
lever
about 8 1/2
(N).
GAUGE
SPACE
LENGTH.
(H)
located
in
the
segment
gauge
Tighten
gauge (Q) "marked R",
the
knee
(P).
BETWEEN
(J).
screw
press
stitches
THE
to
the
of
Move
against
lever
(H),
per
FEED
right
the
feed
(K)
then
in
the
the
inch
ROCKER
r
p
N
Fig.
must
stud
segment
(C).
(CAUTION!
head
mm)
(Fig.
sure
inch
(.79
stitches
be
(B)
that
10
If a larger
ring
after
ing
stud
segment
and
(N)
All
First
screw
The
(D)
the
Q J
to
the
other
loosening
adjust
(F)
distance
should
is
limited
bed
is
stitch
rear.
stitch
nut
after
be
not
length
(C)
the
feed
loosening
from
9/32
by
less
the
the
length
on
feed
rocker
main
inch
bed,
than
than 8 1/2
changes
crank
nut
shaft
(7.14
make
1/32
R
4
made by
(D).
to
(E,
Fig.
4A).
the
mm).
per
the
NUT
As
free
the
largest
HAS
4A)
the
inch
stitch
LEFT
to
the
movement
space
is
needed,
regulating
movement by
THREAD).
head
of
of
the
between
the
re-adjust
screw
the
regulat-
the
feed
feed
segment
stop
(F)
crank
rocker
(B)
(B)
is
(6.35
ing
block
this
screw
the
stop
the
lower
pin
of
For
adjusting
in
mm)
pin,
(L) and
ring
For
adjusting
5/16
its
end
diameter
and
the
set
the
the
(N)
part
of
inch
ADJUSTING
the
sliding
position
(e.g.
upper
lever
shaft
against
segment
(7.94
the
end
reverse
mm)
(FOR
to
a
drill
of
(K),
(S)
is 4 1/8
lever
(B).
diameter
THE
block
the
the
so
feed
Move
FEED
MECHANISM
STYLE
turn
needle.
of
1/4
segment.
that
the
inches
(P).
place a pin
the
and
59400 K
handwheel
Loosen
inch
When
distance
(104.77
sliding
set
the
WITHOUT
ONLY)
dia.
the
of
block
stop
GAUGE
until
screw
or
6.35
sliding
between
mm).
5/16
inch
with
ring
the
(H),
place a pin
mm
dia.)
block
outer
Tighten
(7.94
the
(R)
(Continued)
top
part
of
between
is
pressed
edges
knee
against
of
screw
mm)
press
diameter
the
the
of
the
the
(H)
against
lever
segment
1/4
inch
slid-
against
head
and
set
in
of
the
(P).
After
in
both
With
tached
looper
its
shank
towards
looper
the
centerline
needle
as
possible.
screw
that
forward,
as
needle
screw
(A,
(E) and
the
close
(E).
Fig.
this
directions.
the
to
the
(C)
in
will
the
operator.
blade
guard
(.003
should
should
point
passes
as
possible
inch
Set
6)
Tighten
adjustment
SETTING
AND
NEEDLE
needle
looper
looper
permit,
be
of
the
be
position
of
the
the
left
or
the
looper
the
For
correction,
THE
LOOPER
GUARD
guard
holder
holder
The
mainshaft
screw
looper
without
.076
(A,
with
right
at
right
as
far
looper
side
mm).
holder
stitch
reset
Fig.
5)
(B),
insert
as
far
down. as
its
point
side
of
angles
and
the
to
the
right
(D).
Loosen
holder
when moving
of
picking
Retighten
so
the
needle
at
frame
so
the
needle
(3.17
of
travel
plished
in
the
looper
as
required
No.
this
so
that
screw
length
at-
the
to
the
mm)
21225-1/8
adjustment.
(F).
should
stop
distance
and
the
when
to
by
loosening
looper
holder
and
it
barely
ring
between
point
the
the
holder
frame
retighten
can
Set
be
about 8 1/2
(N).
of
looper
rear
(Fig.
the
frame
(A)
be
used
the
contacts
stitches
Fig.
the
the
is
hexagon
driving
towards
nut
advantageously
needle
the
5
centerline
looper
at
its
5).
This
nut
the
(B).
guard
needle
of
is
1/8
farthest
can
(B,
arm.
Move
front
Looper
(A,
and
per
the
inch
point
be
accom-
Fig.
the
or
rear
gauge
in
making
Fig.
tighten
inch
6)
5)
Fig.
6
11
SETTING
HEIGHT
OF
NEEDLE
BAR
Insert
left.
the
is
end
quired
have
to
inch
adjustment
scribed
clearance
the
be
plate
by
lower
parallelism
(B).
extension
A
top
surface
sufficient.
of
the
and
NOTE:
been
assure
(.79
above.
Set
teeth
parallel
at
loosening
screws
Loosen
a
new
needle,
preliminary
machine,
retighten
After
set,
mm)
the
on
should
high
the
that
the
above
be
required,
SETTING
(FOR
feed
all
in
both
point
the
(C)
across-the-line-of-feed.
screw
(B)
up
of
the
This
the
needle
point
STYLE
dog (A,
sides
extend
feed
as
(A,
or
setting
throat
can
be
loosen
screw.
looper,
of
the
top
reset
THE
59400
in
the
planes
of
travel.
dog
required
Fig.
down
as
type
and
of
1/4
plate,
accomplished
screw
bar
the
of
FEED
Fig.
the
depth
with
mounting
9) and
required
(A,
retainer
height
looper
the
needle
DOG
K)
8)
so
throat
of a tooth
the
This
to
correct
move
allelism
dog
in-the-line-of-feed.
Retighten
size
as
inch
when
Fig.
and
must
comes
needle's
bar
that
plate.
top
of
can
be
screw
the
Retighten
the
to
correct
to
specified,
(6.35
by
height
(B),
the
mm)
the
needle
removing
7),
move
needle
be
rechecked
in
at
eye.
Should
as
there
is
The
tips
above
the
throat
accomplished
raise
height
screw
feed
bar
the
of
the
throat
screw
with
from
bar
the
needle
guard
1/32
de-
equal
of
and
or
and
tilt
par-
feed
plat•
(A) .
the
is
head
bar
the
point
at
spot
its
cover
(B)
or
of
the
highest
from
up
or
•
Fig.
scarf
needle
the
down
7
to th
to
position
left
as
re-
8
A
e
(
Set
throat
in
both
highest
secures
(G,
Fig.
and
parallelism
screw
adjust
of
feed
tighten
the
plate.
planes
point
the
5)
(D,
screw
dog
screw
feed
as
Fig.
to
Fig.
8
feed
dog (C,
See
that
with
of
required
6).
(B)
throat
(A).
the
travel.
dog
across-the-line-of-feed,
Loosen
as
required
the
top
in
position,
to
plate
Fig.
tips
of
Loosen
attain
screw
to
in-line-of-feed,
6)
so
of
the
screw
adjust
correct
(A,
attain
there
the
teeth
throat
(D)
Fig.
parallelism
SETTING
(FOR
STYLE
is
equal
extend
plate
which
screws
height
retighten
10)
and
re-
12
THE
at
FEED
DOG
59400
clearance
the
R)
depth
Fig
on
all
sides
of a tooth
Fig.
9
10
in
and
the
parallel
TIMING
THE
RETAINER
With
stroke,
line
complished
screws
align
or
lowering
screws
.015
highest
screw
(G)
up
inch
and
the
with
in
the
(D
point
(D).
tighten
the
pinker
timing
the
by
removing
driven
timing
Fig.
the
and
E),
(.254
of
Now
and
mark on
timing
gear
marks
11
retainer
then
to
.381
the
looper.
lower
screw
its
mark on
the
on
the
and
arm
raising
mm)
the
upper
(E).
base
the
face
the
access
vertical
retighten
support
or
clearance
Hold
retainer
DO
NOT
removed and
of
the
vertical
oil
reservoir
plug
screw
shaft,
screws
With
stroke
be
set
needle
the
needle
by
loosening
required
wheel
underside
point
to
(C).
lowering
between
retainer
clamp
of
.381
This
retainer
arm
arm
retainer
the
(C),
rotate
in
driven
the
the
so
that
and
and
in
operating
of
the
mm).
can
the
support
support
needle
drive
top
cover
inserting
vertical
gear
SETTING
needle
retainer
it
1/32
inch
(Fig.
12).
screws
retighten
the
retainer
looper
Adjustment
be
accomplished
arm
underside
(F) down on
arm,
it
bar
at
crank
(B).
screwdriver
drive
securely.
THE
bar
point
is
even
(.79
This
(B),
screws
direction
by
.010
support
of
in
this
should
the
bottom
(A,
Fig.
This
crank
RETAINER
at
the
(A,
Fig.
with
mrn)
to
can
reposition
(B).
to
clears
to
can
be
by
to
obtain
the
retainer
position
top
move
of
11)
can
be
and
by hand
bottom
12)
the
front
the
right
be
accomplished
retainer
Rotate
be
sure
the
highest
.015
inch
made by
first
the
and
of
retainer
freely.
its
must
ac-
loosening
to
of
its
should
of
the
of
as
hand-
that
the
(.254
raising
loosening
.010
to
and
the
tighten
arm
Fig.
12
Set
nut
(A,
gulating
of
the
"S".
toward
(moves
Turning
the
Fig.
stud
cloth
the
stitch
stitch
13)
and
plate,
the
"S")
regulating
1/2
turning
screw
and
to
required
turn
in
the
clockwise
turning
CHANGING
(FOR
(it
has a left
the
stitch
head
it
stud
toward
of
in a counterclockwise
STITCH
STYLE
length.
adjusting
the
shortens
the
59400
This
hand
main
"L").
13
LENGTH
R)
is
accomplished
thread)
screw
shaft
the
stitch
Retighten
(C),
direction
on
(B)
which
(moves
Fig.
13
by
the
end
located
is
stitch
the
locknut
loosening
of
the
under
marked
regulating
lengthens
securely.
stitch
the
with
the
the
left
lock-
"L"
stitch
re-
end
and
stud
To
CHANGING
(FOR
STITCH
STYLE
LENGTH
59400
(Continued)
R)
prevent
the
"U"
The
and
lubricated
(J,
Fig.
When
directly
the
part
sealed
assemble,
grease
up
should
begins
1/8
released
position.
lease
machine
position
screw
bearings
seals
The
a good
be
The
to
inch
lever
(A)
destructive
shaped
needle
13) and remove
packing
from
number 28604
tension
stitch
barely
thread
function
(3.17
when
If
next
the
assuring
key
once a year.
the
start
to
THREAD
mm)
the
adjustment
screw
to
tension
slot
bearings
bearings,
tube
are
tapered
prevent
on
and
sufficient
tension
as
of
presser
(A,
the
that
damage
in
(F &
shaft
to
avoid
P.
Greased
replaced
end
damage.
the
needle
to
avoid
TENSION
release
the
presser
the
end
foot
is
Fig.
presser
disc
separator
there
to
the
the
ferrule
G,
Fig.
This
of
RELEASE
required,
14)
foot
can
(K)
the
parts
contamination.
they
shafts
THREAD
thread
puckering
to
steady
is
of
its
has
located
lifter
is
no
feed
Now,
bearings
should
foot
drive
(E).
13)
be
accomplished
repack
must
first,
TENSIONS
should
the
the
set
correctly
is
travel
reached
loosen
at
lever
as
required.
bind
in
be
are
be
pressed
fabric.
thread.
raised
and
its
the
the
at
any
bearing,
the
feed
bearings.
clean
Tube
located
twisting
only
be
when
to
is
entirely
highest
tension
rear
of
(B) and
Retighten
point.
the
rocker
as
follows.
and
grease
of
grease
at
in
flush
slightly
as
tight
The
tension
it
within
rethe
re-
Key
(F &
with
screw
(H)
Loosen
should
can
G,
when
as
necessary
on
(D) must
should
be
be
supplied
Fig.
the
entering
the
be
checked
allen
applied
13).
casting.
to
looper
engage
screw
under
If
grease
To
the
pull
thread
The
correctly
(B,
Fig.
(1.59
(D,
lever
dog
needle
foot
a
Check
see
mm)
Fig.
is
down
If
bar
down
screwdriver
setting
if
SETTING
height
if
it
14)
is
clearance
?)
and
released
below
adjustment
is
in
on
the
to
by
presser
HEIGHT
of
the
is
possible
fully
the
and
the
throat
is
the
throat
obtain
turning
foot
OF
PRESSER
presser
depressed.
between
bottom
the
presser
plate.
needed,
low
position.
plate
the
handwheel
can
be
bar
to
remove
Also
lower
surface
turn
surface,
1/16
removed
inch
BAR
(C,
Fig.
the
there
surface
of
head
foot
resting
handwheel
Loosen
pry
(1.59
so
that
as
mentioned
14
7)
presser
should
of
the
opening
on
in
screw
up
presser
mm)
needle
is
set
foot
when
be
approximately
presser
in
the
the
throat
operating
(E).
setting
bar
in
Then,
bar
is
previous
the
bar
connection
bed,
plate,
direction
while
connection
and
tighten
in
its
paragraph.
foot
when
high
Fig.
lifter
1/16
and
the
foot
with
until
holding
and
screw
position
14
lever
inch
guide
the
the
presser
guide
(E).
lifter
feed
with
and
PRESSER
Regulate the pre
i ng
screw
only
enough
to
feed
the
tension
the
behind
machine.
the
reverse.
is
knurled
the
pressure,
FOOT
(A,
Fig.
15)
pressure
work
uniformly
placed
screw,
needle
Turning
on
located
bar
it
counterclockwise
PRESSURE
sser
spring
so
that
on
the
presser
when a
the
fabric. This
directly
in
the
clockwise
regulat-
it
head
increases
acts
exerts
foot
slight
is
of
the
the
A
C
~~
~~1~
D
ADJUSTING
Set
(B,
Fig.
needle
upper
the
needle
needle
let
(D)
stroke
let
when
The
function
the
amount
the
stitch,
ing
in
are
available
knife
when
AND
the
15)
bar
thread
surface
bar
thread
as
high
of
the
the
looper
when
of
the
seam.
changing
NEEDLE
THREAD
needle
located
is
has
loop,
as
needle
needle
thread
the
thread
which
Fig.
to
THREAD
EYELETS
thread
adjacent
eyelet
even
completed
or
possible
bar
looper
increases
16
compensate
the
with
raise
bar,
has
take-up
in
each
width
(C)
starts
TAKE-UP
take-up
to
so
the
top
its
it
without
yet
so
completed
eyelet
stitch
its
for
of
WIRE
wire
the
that
its
of
the
downward
for a larger
pulling
all
thread
its
should
its
travel
and
also
elasticity
cures
machine
it
and moving
of
necessary
chine
plates,
spacing
pink.
acquired
hole
stroke.
loop.
thread
is
pulled
upward
be
to
the
increases
and
reduces
Loosen
the
and
to
the
the
pink.
and
feed
in
the
Lower
Set
through
stroke.
set
rear.
base
move
left
to
to
select
between
needle
the
through
so
that
Raising
the
its
PINKER
SETTING
screw
of
pinker
decreases
the
right
For
extreme
remove
from a
dogs,
the
bar
this
needle
the
the
balooned
tendency
WIDTH
(A,
Fig.
the
pinker
the
knives
throat
Fig.
15
thread
setting
thread
tensions
the
tension
take-up
the
ADJUSTMENTS
as
required.
the
increases
variations
pinker
combination
and
eyelet
for a smaller
on
begins
eyelet
appearance
to
cause
OF
PINKER
16)
which
attachment
width
from
spacer
p1ate
frame
the
post
increases
pucker-
se-
Moving
of
pink
the
width
it
may
the
of
which
and
when
eye-
down
eye-
to
of
to
be
ma-
throat
lower
the
NOTE:
point
Set
below
For
this
lower
ion
until
(1.59
Tighten
mm)
The
of
the
the
top
edge
adjustment,
front
the
pencil
screw
width
pinking
upper
of
point
pinker
(D).
pinking
lower
(Fig.
line
of
pink
knife.
knife
make a
16),
arm
is
on
upper
is
SETTING
knife
when
pencil
loosen
at
measured
(B,
pinker
line
screw
its
lowest
knife
THE
Fig.
so
from
UPPER
16)
arm
on
upper
(D)
point
it
coincides
the
KNIFE
so
{C)
and
of
its
knife,
centerline
point
is
at
turn
handwheel
travel.
with
15
its
1/16
top
of
is
1/16
lowest
inch
Now,
edge
the
inch
point
(1.59
in
set
of
needle
(1.59
of
mm)
operating
the
1/16
lower
to
the
mm)
travel.
from
direct-
inch
knife.