This technical manual has been prepared to guide you while adjusting the 54200J-12-16
machine. It may be used in conjunction with Union Special Parts Manual PRT9204 and
Union Special Catalog 102L.
This adjusting manual explains in detail the proper setting for each of the components
related to forming the stitch and completing the functions of the machine. Illustrations are
used to show the adjustments and reference letters are used to point out specific items
discussed.
Careful attention to the instructions for operating and adjusting these machines will enable
you to maintain the superior performance and reliability designed and built into every Union
Special machine.
Adjustments are presented in sequence so that a logical progression is accomplished.
Some adjustments performed out of sequence may have an adverse effect on the function
of other related parts.
This manual has been comprised on the basis of available information. Changes in design
and/or improvements may incorporate a slight modification of configuration in illustrations.
Este manual se ha hecho con la informaciòn basicá disponible.
Cambios eñdiseno y la mejoras puede incorporar una pequeña modificaciòn, de la
configuraciòn en las ilustraciones o numero de partes.
Dieses Handbuch wurde auf Basis vorhandener Information erstellt.
Konstruktionsänderungen und/oder Weiterentwicklungen können eine geringfûgige
VerHäderung der Abbildungen oder der Teilenummern bedingen.
2
SAFETY RULES
CAUTION!
THESE SYMBOLS INDICATE THAT YOUR PERSONAL SAFETY IS INVOLVED
This equipment is designed to operate under specified voltage requirements. The electrical power to the
equipment MUST match the voltage specifications for the equipment.
Before operating the machine check the direction of rotation of the handwheel. Breakage may occur if
the direction of rotation is incorrect.
TO PREVENT PERSONAL INJURY:
Only qualified persons should operate the machine.
Wear safety glasses.
All shields and guards MUST be in position before operating machine.
DO NOT tamper with safety shields, guards, etc., while machine is in operation.
The main equipment power switch MUST be turned-off for the following:
•Threading needle, looper, spreader etc.
•Replacing sewing parts such as needle, presser foot, throat plate, looper, spreader, feed
dog, needle guard, folder, fabric guard etc.
•The workstation is unattended or work has been completed for the day.
•For all maintenance work.
•When making adjustments to the machine.
DO NOT touch moving machine parts while the machines main power switch is turned-on DANGER OF INJURY COULD OCCUR!
The sewing unit should only be used for its intended purpose. All applicable safe guarding MUST
be considered when making any modifications to the machine.
IMPORTANT!
Any work on the equipment should be done by authorized persons and only with the equipment
power switch turned-off and its plug and air supply disconnected.
The above and all adjustments stated in the adjusting instructions should be adhered to for safe
operation of this equipment.
CLASS DESCRIPTION ........................................................................................................................................... 5
NEEDLE HEAD ALIGNMENT................................................................................................................................. 8
SETTING THE NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT .................................................................................................................. 8
SETTING THE LOOPER HOLDER REST .............................................................................................................. 8
SETTING THE LOOPER HOLDER THRUST AND THROW-OUT SPRING TENSION.......................................... 9
SETTING THE LOOPER GAUGE........................................................................................................................... 9
SETTING THE LOOPER GAUGE (CONT.) .......................................................................................................... 10
SETTING THE NEEDLE GUARDS....................................................................................................................... 10
SETTING THE LOOPERS .................................................................................................................................... 10
SETTING THE RET AINERS ................................................................................................................................. 10
SETTING THE RET AINERS (CONT.) ................................................................................................................... 11
SETTING THE FEED DOG ................................................................................................................................... 11
SETTING THE FEED DOG (CONT.)..................................................................................................................... 12
SETTING THE PRESSER FOOT.......................................................................................................................... 12
SETTING THE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE ..................................................................................................... 12
SETTING THE TENSION RELEASE .................................................................................................................... 13
SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH ......................................................................................................................... 13
TIMING THE PULLER .......................................................................................................................................... 13
TIMING THE PULLER (CONT.) ............................................................................................................................ 14
SETTING THE PULLER STITCH LENGTH.......................................................................................................... 14
SETTING THE LOOPER THREAD....................................................................................................................... 14
SETTING THE THREAD EYELETS...................................................................................................................... 15
4
MACHINE IDENTIFICATION
Each Union Special machine is identified by a Style number which, on this machine, is stamped into the Style
plate attached to the right front side.
The Serial number is stamped in the casting at the rear base of the machine.
CLASS DESCRIPTION
High throw machine equipped with a close coupled puller and 3 inch (76mm) wide rubber puller rollers,
upper roller driven. Independent row, with twelve needles spaced every 1/4" (6.4mm). Twelve loopers
travel in-line-of-feed and a throw-out device enables the operator to disengage the loopers f rom the
driving mechanism, thus exposing the heel and eye of each looper f or easy threading. Automatic enclosed type oiling system. Filter type oil return pump, oil pan base plate and head oil siphon assembly.
MACHINE STYLE
54200J-12-16 For decorative stitching operations on men 9 s, women 9 s and
children’s jackets, coats, beachwear and similar operations on medium to heavyweight material. Varied effects can be produced by removing one or more
needles, by using different colored thread in the needles, by attaching rick-rack or
by quilting a portion of the garment using the same color thread in all needles.
• Stitch type 401
• Type 113 GS
• Maximum Speed 4000 R.P.M.
• 16 gauge only
NEEDLES
Each Union Special needle has both a type and size number. The type number denotes the kind of
shank, point, length, groove, finish and other details. The size number, stamped on the needle shank,
denotes the largest diameter of the blade midway between the shank and the eye. Collectively, the type
number and size number represent the complete symbol which is given on the label of all needles
packed and sold by Union Special.
The standard needle for the 542OOi-12-16 is Type 113GS Size 125/049.
EPYTNOITPIRCSEDELBALIAVASEZIS
,tniopdnuor,knahsdnuoR
,evoorgelbuod,trohsartxe
SG311
detalp
Needle orders will be promptly and accurately filled when a sample needle, an empty needle package or the
type and size number of the needle is forwarded. The type and size number is located on the needle package
label. A complete order would read as follows: “1000 needles, type 113GS, size 100/040”.
,evoorgkcurts,evoorglarips
muimorhc,dettops,eyellab
040/001
440/011920/570
940/521230/080
450/041630/090
5
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