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ADJUSTING INSTRUCTIONS
REV. 10/22/98
54200 SERIES
MANUAL NO. INS9203
STYLES
54200J-12-16
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Manual No. INS9203 Adjusting Instructions for the
54200 Series Flat Bed Machines
Style 54200-12-16
First Edition, Copyright 1992
By
Union Special Corporation
Rights Reserved In All Countries
PREFACE
This technical manual has been prepared to guide you while adjusting the 54200J-12-16
machine. It may be used in conjunction with Union Special Parts Manual PRT9204 and
Union Special Catalog 102L.
This adjusting manual explains in detail the proper setting for each of the components
related to forming the stitch and completing the functions of the machine. Illustrations are
used to show the adjustments and reference letters are used to point out specific items
discussed.
Careful attention to the instructions for operating and adjusting these machines will enable
you to maintain the superior performance and reliability designed and built into every Union
Special machine.
Adjustments are presented in sequence so that a logical progression is accomplished.
Some adjustments performed out of sequence may have an adverse effect on the function
of other related parts.
This manual has been comprised on the basis of available information. Changes in design
and/or improvements may incorporate a slight modification of configuration in illustrations.
Este manual se ha hecho con la informaciòn basicá disponible.
Cambios eñdiseno y la mejoras puede incorporar una pequeña modificaciòn, de la
configuraciòn en las ilustraciones o numero de partes.
Dieses Handbuch wurde auf Basis vorhandener Information erstellt.
Konstruktionsänderungen und/oder Weiterentwicklungen können eine geringfûgige
VerHäderung der Abbildungen oder der Teilenummern bedingen.
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SAFETY RULES
CAUTION!
THESE SYMBOLS INDICATE THAT YOUR PERSONAL SAFETY IS INVOLVED
This equipment is designed to operate under specified voltage requirements. The electrical power to the
equipment MUST match the voltage specifications for the equipment.
Before operating the machine check the direction of rotation of the handwheel. Breakage may occur if
the direction of rotation is incorrect.
TO PREVENT PERSONAL INJURY:
Only qualified persons should operate the machine.
Wear safety glasses.
All shields and guards MUST be in position before operating machine.
DO NOT tamper with safety shields, guards, etc., while machine is in operation.
The main equipment power switch MUST be turned-off for the following:
• Threading needle, looper, spreader etc.
• Replacing sewing parts such as needle, presser foot, throat plate, looper, spreader, feed
dog, needle guard, folder, fabric guard etc.
• The workstation is unattended or work has been completed for the day.
• For all maintenance work.
• When making adjustments to the machine.
DO NOT touch moving machine parts while the machines main power switch is turned-on DANGER OF INJURY COULD OCCUR!
The sewing unit should only be used for its intended purpose. All applicable safe guarding MUST
be considered when making any modifications to the machine.
IMPORTANT!
Any work on the equipment should be done by authorized persons and only with the equipment
power switch turned-off and its plug and air supply disconnected.
The above and all adjustments stated in the adjusting instructions should be adhered to for safe
operation of this equipment.
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CONTENTS
MACHINE IDENTIFICA TION .................................................................................................................................. 5
CLASS DESCRIPTION ........................................................................................................................................... 5
MACHINE STYLE ................................................................................................................................................... 5
NEEDLES ............................................................................................................................................................... 5
THREADING ........................................................................................................................................................... 6
OILING.................................................................................................................................................................... 7
TORQUE REQUIREMENTS ................................................................................................................................... 7
NEEDLE HEAD ALIGNMENT................................................................................................................................. 8
SETTING THE NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT .................................................................................................................. 8
SETTING THE LOOPER HOLDER REST .............................................................................................................. 8
SETTING THE LOOPER HOLDER THRUST AND THROW-OUT SPRING TENSION.......................................... 9
SETTING THE LOOPER GAUGE........................................................................................................................... 9
SETTING THE LOOPER GAUGE (CONT.) .......................................................................................................... 10
SETTING THE NEEDLE GUARDS....................................................................................................................... 10
SETTING THE LOOPERS .................................................................................................................................... 10
SETTING THE RET AINERS ................................................................................................................................. 10
SETTING THE RET AINERS (CONT.) ................................................................................................................... 11
SETTING THE FEED DOG ................................................................................................................................... 11
SETTING THE FEED DOG (CONT.)..................................................................................................................... 12
SETTING THE PRESSER FOOT.......................................................................................................................... 12
SETTING THE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE ..................................................................................................... 12
SETTING THE TENSION RELEASE .................................................................................................................... 13
SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH ......................................................................................................................... 13
TIMING THE PULLER .......................................................................................................................................... 13
TIMING THE PULLER (CONT.) ............................................................................................................................ 14
SETTING THE PULLER STITCH LENGTH.......................................................................................................... 14
SETTING THE LOOPER THREAD....................................................................................................................... 14
EYELET ................................................................................................................................................................ 14
SETTING THE THREAD EYELETS...................................................................................................................... 15
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MACHINE IDENTIFICATION
Each Union Special machine is identified by a Style number which, on this machine, is stamped into the Style
plate attached to the right front side.
The Serial number is stamped in the casting at the rear base of the machine.
CLASS DESCRIPTION
High throw machine equipped with a close coupled puller and 3 inch (76mm) wide rubber puller rollers,
upper roller driven. Independent row, with twelve needles spaced every 1/4" (6.4mm). Twelve loopers
travel in-line-of-feed and a throw-out device enables the operator to disengage the loopers f rom the
driving mechanism, thus exposing the heel and eye of each looper f or easy threading. Automatic enclosed type oiling system. Filter type oil return pump, oil pan base plate and head oil siphon assembly.
MACHINE STYLE
54200J-12-16 For decorative stitching operations on men 9 s, women 9 s and
children’s jackets, coats, beachwear and similar operations on medium to heavyweight material. Varied effects can be produced by removing one or more
needles, by using different colored thread in the needles, by attaching rick-rack or
by quilting a portion of the garment using the same color thread in all needles.
• Stitch type 401
• Type 113 GS
• Maximum Speed 4000 R.P.M.
• 16 gauge only
NEEDLES
Each Union Special needle has both a type and size number. The type number denotes the kind of
shank, point, length, groove, finish and other details. The size number, stamped on the needle shank,
denotes the largest diameter of the blade midway between the shank and the eye. Collectively, the type
number and size number represent the complete symbol which is given on the label of all needles
packed and sold by Union Special.
The standard needle for the 542OOi-12-16 is Type 113GS Size 125/049.
EPYTNOITPIRCSEDELBALIAVASEZIS
,tniopdnuor,knahsdnuoR
,evoorgelbuod,trohsartxe
SG311
detalp
Needle orders will be promptly and accurately filled when a sample needle, an empty needle package or the
type and size number of the needle is forwarded. The type and size number is located on the needle package
label. A complete order would read as follows: “1000 needles, type 113GS, size 100/040”.
,evoorgkcurts,evoorglarips
muimorhc,dettops,eyellab
040/001
440/011920/570
940/521230/080
450/041630/090
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THREADING
The above illustration shows the proper way to thread the 54200J-12-16. Each thread on the tension
assembly has a number or letter that must correspond with the same number or letter on the needle head
and looper eyelets. Note that the needles are inserted at a right angle to the needle head with the s carf
facing left. All needles are thread from right to left. All loopers are threaded from back to front.
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OILING
Referring to Figure 1, fill the machine at (A) until the oil level is indicated between the red lines on gauge
(B). Use a straight mineral oil, Saybolt viscosity of 90 to 125 seconds at 1000 fahrenheit. Run the machine
slowly for a few minutes to allow the wicks to carry oil to the bearings. The puller drive shaft bushing
and the puller connecting link must be oiled by hand.
TORQUE REQUIREMENTS
Torque (measured in inch-pounds or newton-meters) is a rotating force (in pounds applied through a
distance by a lever) in inches or meters. This is accomplished by using wrench, screwdriver, etc.
Many of these devices are available, which when set at the proper amount of torque will tighten the
part to the correct amount and no tighter.
All straps and eccentrics should be tightened to 19-21 inch-pounds (2.2Nm-2.4Nm) unless otherwise
noted. All other nuts, bolts, screws, etc. should be tightened by hand as tightly as possible, unless
otherwise noted.
ADJUSTING INSTRUCTIONS
Instructions stating direction or location, such as right, left, front or rear of the machine are given
relative to the operator’s position at the machine unless otherwise noted. The handwheel rotates
counterclockwise in operating direction; as viewed from the right end of the machine.
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NEEDLE HEAD ALIGNMENT
Insert a new set of needles, type and size as
specif ied in the description of the machine.
Needles must be inserted with the spot or
scarf to the left. Turn the handwheel in operating direction to bring needles (A,Fig. 2)
down to ensure that they are aligned in the
needle slots of the throat plate as shown.
Adjustment can be made by loosening clamp
screw (B,Fig. 2 Inset) slightly, allowing needle
bar (A) to be turned as required. Tighten
clamp screw (B).
SETTING THE NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT
The height of the needle bar is correct when the needle points are from
1/21' to 17/32" (12.7mm to 13.5mm) above the top surface of the throat
plate and the needle bar is at the top of its stroke. If adjustment is
necessary loosen needle bar clamp screw (A, Fig. 3) and move needle
bar (B) up or down. Torque screw (A) to 20 in. lbs. (2.3Nm).
CAUTION: Care should be taken not to disturb the alignment of
the needles in the throat plate when moving the
needle bar up or down.
SETTING THE LOOPER HOLDER REST
The looper holder rest must be set so it prevents the loopers, looper
holder and/or the needle guards from striking the looper thread
eyelet when the looper throw-out pin is disengaged.
Turn the handwheel in operating direction until the needles are at
their highest position. Loosen screw (A, Fig. 4) and adjust looper
holder rest (B) front to back so looper holder (C) will stop against rest (B) when the looper throw-out pin is
disengaged. Check the position of the loopers and needle guards to make sure they do not contact looper
thread eyelet (D).
NOTE: To return the looper holder to a sewing position pull out on the looper throw-out plunger knob
and push against the looper holder frame. Release knob.
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SETTING THE LOOPER HOLDER THRUST AND THROW-OUT SPRING TENSION
The looper throw-out tension must
be set so the looper holder will
“snap” to the threading position
when the looper holder throw-out pin
is disengaged.
Turn the handwheel in operating
direction until the needles are at their
highest position and pull looper
throw-out knob (A, Fig. 5) to the left
releasing looper holder (B) to a
threading position. As viewed from
the right end of the machine, loosen
collar screws (C) and rotate collar (D)
in a counterclockwise direction until
spring (E) creates a slight tension
against the back of the looper holder.
Thrust “E” ring (F) and collar (D)
together to remove all right to left
play in looper holder (B). Tighten
collar screws (C).
Note: There must be no shake or
bind when the handwheel is
rotated.
SETTING THE LOOPER GAUGE
Starting from the extreme right with the
looper point facing the operator insert looper
(A, Fig. 6) through the back of needle guard
(B) and as far down as it will go into looper
holder frame (C). Repeat the above with the
looser and needle guard on the extreme left.
Note: Checking the looper gauge on
the right and left side first will
enable you to tell if the needle
bar alignment is correct. If the
looper gauge is not the same
on both sets of loopers and
needles refer to the "NEEDLE
HEAD ALIGNMENT" section.
Recheck the needle bar height
if any of the above adjustments
were altered.
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SETTING THE LOOPER GAUGE (CONT.)
Move the needle guard to the side so the needle will not strike it. Turn the handwheel in operating direction
until the looper holder frame has travelled fully to the rear. At this time the distance between the centerline
of the needles and the points of the loopers should be 1/8" (3.2mm) . If adjustment is necessary loosen
hexagon head clamp screw (D, Fig. 6 Inset) at the right end of looper holder driving arm (E) and move forward
or backward as required. Tighten screw (D) and recheck settings.
SETTING THE NEEDLE GUARDS
The needle guard screws (A, Fig. 7) cannot be accessed
once the loopers are tightened so the needle guards must
be set first. Loosen looper screw (B) and swing the looper
to the side so the needle will not strike it. Do not remove
the looper because the needle guard looper hole must
remain aligned with the hole in the looper holder. Turn the
handwheel in operating direction until needles (C) are at
their lowest point of travel. Position needle guard (D) so it
touches but does not def lect the rear of needle (C). Tighten
needle guard screw (A).
SETTING THE LOOPERS
Turn the handwheel in operating direction. When each
looper (A, Fig. 8) moves forward the point should pass the
left side of needle (B) with a clearance of 0.000" to 0.003"
(O.OOMM to 0.08MM).
SETTING THE RETAINERS
The retainers must be adjusted as close as possible to the
top of the loopers without touching them and also set from
the right to left for proper stitch formation.
Insert retainers (A, Fig. 9) into retainer holder bar (B) with
the notched ends 1/32" (0.8mm) from the needles and the
side of the notches facing the needles and tighten screws
(C).
Loosen screws (D) in the retainer holder bar connection bar (E) and rock bar (B) so the underside of the
retainer is as close as possible to the top of the looper without contacting it. Position the needle bar as
high as possible and pull looper throw-out plunger knob (F) to the left, releasing the looper holder. Make
sure the loopers do not hit the underneath side of the retainers.
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SETTING THE RETAINERS (CONT.)
NOTE: To return the looper
holder to a sewing
position pull the
looper throw-out
plunger knob to the
left and push against
the looper holder
frame. Release knob.
To adjust the retainers from
the right to left turn the
handwheel in operating
direction with the loopers
travelling toward the
operator. Position looper eye
(G, Fig. 9 Inset) directly below
the point of retainer (H).
Loosen screws (D, Fig. 9) and move retainer holder bar (B) right or left so the point on the right side of
the retainer is in the center of the top of the looper blade at the eye. Tighten screws (D) and recheck to
make sure loopers do not hit the underneath side of the retainers.
SETTING THE FEED DOG
The feed dog should be centered in the throat plate from left to right and front to back when the machine is
set at the desired stitch length. The tips of the teeth on the feed dog must be parallel and protrude 1/32"
(0.8mm) above the throat plate at the highest point of travel.
To set the feed dog
parallel to the throat
plate loosen screw
(A,Fig. 10) and turn
screw (B) clockwise to
tilt the front of the
feed dog up or
counterclockwise to
tilt the front of the
feed dog down.
Retighten screw (A)
` To set the feed dog
height rotate the
handwheel in
operating direction until the feed dog is at its highest position. Loosen screw (A, Fig. 11) and remove feed
dog (B). Turn height adjusting screws (C) clockwise to lower or counterclockwise to raise the feed dog. The
feeddog should extend 1/32 “ (0.8mm) above the throat plate surface. Retighten screw (A).
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SETTING THE FEED DOG (CONT.)
To center the feed dog from left to right
rotate the handwheel in operating direction
until the feed dog is at its highest position.
Loosen screws (A and B, Fig. 12) and move
feed rocker (C) right or left on feed rocker
shaft (D) as Retighten screws (A and B).
CAUTION: Check to ensure that feed
crank link subassembly (E)
does not bind when
handwheel is rotated 360°.
To move the feed dog from front to back
loosen screws (B, Fig.12) and move feed
rocker arm (C) as required. Tighten screws
(B). One full tooth should pass beyond the
rear of the presser foot when the feed dog
has travelled fully to the rear.
SETTING THE PRESSER FOOT
Assemble presser foot (A, Fig. 13) to presser bar (B). Make sure
that presser bar is fully inserted into presser foot shank. Line up
the needle slots in the presser foot with the needle slots in the
throat plate. Tighten screw (C).
If the presser foot is not resting flat on the throat plate the material will not feed properly. Loosen screw (D) and lift presser bar
guide (E) up so there is a 1/16" (1.6mm) clearance between the
lifter lever link (F) and the screw in the presser bar guide (G).
SETTING THE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
Located on the top of the machine directly behind the needle bar
is a knurled screw to adjust the pressure of the presser foot.
Adjust the pressure just enough to assure good even feeding of
the fabric. Turn the screw clockwise to increase pressure or
counterclockwise to decrease pressure.
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SETTING THE TENSION RELEASE
SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH
This machine is designed to sew 7 to 14 stitches per inch. The
normal factory setting is 12 stitches per inch. If the current stitch
length has to be changed loosen locknut (A, Fig. 15) at the end of
the mainshaft (it has a left-hand thread). Turn screw (B) clockwise
to shorten the stitch or counter clockwise to lengthen the stitch.
Tighten nut (A) and torque to 55 in. lbs. (6.2Nm).
The tension release is set properly
so it begins to function when the
presser foot has been raised 1/8"
(3.2mm) from the throat plate surface and the tension disc is entirely
released when the presser foot
reaches its highest position.
Loosen screw (A, Fig.14) and adjust tension disc separator (B) up
or down as required so all needle
tension discs (C) will release at the
proper time. Tighten screw (A)
NOTE: If the stitch length is changed the puller stitch length
must be changed also.
TIMING THE PULLER
The puller must be timed so it begins to
feed material to the rear at the same time
the feed dog feeds material to the puller.
Remove the crank chamber cover and
rotate the handwheel in operating direction until the needles are at the top of
their stroke. At this time screw (A, Fig.
16) on puller drive eccentric (B) should
be facing the 3 o’clock position (toward
the rear) and screw (C) should be facing
the 6 o’clock position (straight down). If
adjustment is necessary, turn the
handwheel in operating direction until
screw (C) is accessible
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TIMING THE PULLER (CONT.)
and loosen. Continue to rotate the handwheel c A until screw (A)
is accessible and loosen. Hold the eccentric in this position and
rotate the handwheel until the needles reach the top of their
stroke. Push the eccentric against the thrust collar and tighten
screw (A). Rotate handwheel until screw (C) can be seen and
tighten.
SETTING THE PULLER STITCH LENGTH
The puller stitch length must be set so it maintains tension on the
fabric without stretching it. For example, if you desire 9 stitches
per inch (SPI) the feed dog travel should be set to produce 10 SPI
without the puller contacting the material. With the puller contacting the material 9 SPI should be produced. if adjustment is
necessary remove the top right crank chamber oil cover and
loosen ball joint nut (A, Fig. 17). Move ball
joint (B) to the rear of driving shaft segment (C) to produce less SPI (a longer
stitch length) or move the ball joint to the
front to produce more SPI (a shorter stitch
length). Tighten nut (A) after each adjustment and check for final desired stitch
length.
SETTING THE LOOPER THREAD
EYELET
Turn the handwheel in operating direction
until the needles are at their highest position. Loosen screws (A, Fig. 18) and position eyelet notch (B) so it will allow looper
throw-out fork (C) to pass over the notch
when looper throw-out plunger knob (D) is
pulled to the left, releasing the looper holder
for looper threading. When the needles are
at their lowest position looper throw-out
fork (C) should not pass the left side of
eyelet notch (B) if looper throw-out plunger
knob (D) is pulled to the left.
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SETTING THE THREAD EYELETS
Set looper thread take-up eyelet (A, Fig.
19) so take-up pin (B) begins to function
when the loopers start their travel to the
rear. Set frame needle thread eyelet (A,
Fig. 20) as high as possible without
pulling thread through the tensions on
the downward stroke of the needle bar.
Set needle thread take-up wire (B) so the
threads contact it at the same time the
thread loops leave the points of the
loopers.
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