®
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
FIN
EST
STYLE
39SOOMH
QUALITY
LEWIS
•
COLUMBIA
MACHINES
CLA
SS
HI-STYLED
CATALOG
No.
SINGLE
103MH
ZIPPER
. .
NEEDLE
DIFFERENTIAL
ATTACHING
CHICAGO
3950
HIGH
0
SPEED
THREE
FEED
MACHINES
THREAD
Here
O
il
are
Specifications
for
Union
Sewing
roleum
mended
machines.
roleum
white
mount.
roleum
hi
mitters.
3. Where
used.
UNION
Specification
oil, viscosity
for
Specification
oil,
or with a maximum
1.
For
use
where freedom from
Specification
oil,
viscosity
Specification
gh
quality
It
is
No.
SPECIAL
all
viscosity
grease
similar
3 grease
SPECIFICATION NO.
Viscosity S.S.U . at
Flash
(Min.)
Pour
(Max.)
Color
A.S.T.M.
Neutralization
Viscosity
(D
Compounding
Copper Corrosion (Max.)
*Anline
*Used
Index
& D
Min.)
No.
with
Buna N Rubber
174
100
oiling
175 specifies a high
100
87
300
100
for
use
to
commercial
is
100°F
(Max.)
No.
(Max.)
Special
Machines
specifies a high
seconds
appli
cations
seconds at
A.S.T .M.
oil
specif i
es
seconds
not
at
specifi
es
in ball bearings and trans-
N.L.G
obta
inable,
174 175 87
90-125 90-
350
20 20
3
0.10
85 85 85
None None None
1A 1A 1A
175-225
"0"
Retainers
quality
at
100°F.
on
high speed
quality
100°F.,
color
staining
a high quali
100°F.
a general purpose
.I.,grease
No. 2 may
125
350
1 3
0.10
175-225
Recom-
water
number
is
para-
ty
300-350
350
0.10
175-225
pet-
pet-
pet-
20
of
No.
be
NOTE
meeting above classification is desirable
essenti
These
and
separat
NOTE
shall
1: "
lhe
use
al. These
1.
2.
3.
4.
5. Film strength
additives must
not
e.
2:
not
1. E
2.
3. Lead soap
4.
may
Oxidation
Rust
inhibitors
Lubricity
Anti-oxidant
removable
Oils containing the
be used
Tackiness
Detergents
at
xtr
eme pressure a
of
non-corrosive
include:
inhibitor
additives
any
or
additive
s
s
additive
be
completely solubl
by
wick
time:
dditives-corro
adhesi
ve
s
s
fee
ding
following
addi
tiv
additive
nor
typ
es
s in
oil
but not
e in the oil
shall they
e a
dditiv
sive
®
s
es
(Supplement
Catalog
to
Catalo
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR
No.
103
g
MH
No.
103
FA)
ADJUSTING
Union
Rights
LIST
CLASS
Style
First
Copyright
Special
Reserved
AND
OF
39500
Edition
by
in
OPERATING
PARTS
39500
MH
1972
Machine
All
Countries
Co.
February.
MACHINE
INDUSTRIAL
CHICAGO
Print
1972
COMPANY
SEWING
e d
in
3
MACHINES
U.S.
A.
IDENTIFICATION
OF
MACHINES
Each
the
machine.
numbers
Example:
only
minor
ard
Style
Styles
which
differs
39500".
This
junction
39500
the
ion
FP
illustration
and
the
numbers
Reference
number
This
herein.
Class
given
of
39500.
from
handwheel
Union
Style
have
"Style
changes
number.
of
machines
from
catalog
therewith.
are
illustrated
will
number
only,
numbers
listed
in
catalog
It
can
also
References
the
operator's
is
Special
machine
numbers
one
or
more
39500
are
MH".
made
Example:
similar
the
Style
APPLICATION
is a supplement
Only
those
and
be
found a listing
of
pieces
and
merely
should
the
second
applies
be
specifically
applied
to
position
away
from
operator.
is
identified
are
classified
letters
Special
in a standard
"Style
number
39500
in
construction
in
to
Catalog
parts
listed
at
of
required.
indicate
never
be
column.
with
discretion
directions,
while
as
suffixed,
Style
machine, a "Z"
MHZ".
that
OF
used
the
back
the
parts,
Numbers
the
position
used
to
in
the
such
seated
by a Style
standard
but
numbers
are
it
contains
CATALOG
No.
103
on
Style
of
this
with
in
of
ordering
Standard
to
some
as
right,
at
the
number
and
never
contain
grouped
no
letters.
FA
and
39500
catalog.
their
the
first
that
part
parts.
Style
Special
left,
machine.
on a name
special.
contain
the
is
suffixed
Standard
the
letter
under a Class
Example:
should
MH,
On
part
column
be
but
the
numbers,
are
in
the
Always
of
machine
Styles
front,
of
back,
Operating
plate
letter
"Z".
to
the
stand-
number
"Class
used
not
page
in
on
opposite
descript-
reference
illustration.
use
the
as
listed
machines
etc.,
direction
on
Style
"Z".
When
con-
Style
part
in
are
Hi
-Styled
seaming
Lower
39500
flies
and
3/8
Maximum
CAUTION!
filled
straight
should
Machine
sight
gauge
gauge
Machine
main
reservoir
High
Machine.
Knife,
MH
and
similar
inch.
before
mineral
be
used.
lines
Speed
Automatic
Medium
zipper
operations.
Stitch
recommended
Oil
beginning
oil
is
filled
on
front
when
machine
is
automatically
filled.
Single
Curved
Differential
Lubricating
to
heavy
tapes
range
was
to
6-16
drained
to
operate.
of a Saybolt
with
of
oil
machine.
is
stationary.
Check
STYLE
Blade
Feed,
duty
machine
pants
Seam
speed
fronts;
specification
per
inch.
6500
from
Oil
viscosity
at
spring
Red
lubricated.
oil
daily
OF
Needle,
Trimming
System.
Cam
R.
OILING
machine
capacity
cap
bulb
on
No
before
MACHINE
Two
Mechanism
for
simultaneously
also
attaching
504-SSa-1.
adjusted
P.M.
when
of
of
90
to
125
in
top
oil
level
oiling
is
morning
Looper,
zippers
main
shipped,
Class
39500
seconds
cover.
Oil
indicator
necessary,
start;
Three
with
Thread,
Spring
attaching rig
to
right
Standard
and
differential
so
reservoir
is
at
level
should
other
add
s~
100
oil
seam
Fahrenheit
is
checked
show
than
as
Over-
Pressed
ht
pants
flies
only
width
feed.
must
ounces.
between
keeping
required.
be
A
at
The
oil
It
is a magnetic
have
entered
drain
plug screw
screw
the
crank
is
designed
case.
It
located
to
accumulate
should
at
back
be
removed
4
of
machine
possible
and
near
foreign
cleaned
bottom
edge
materials
periodically.
of
which
base.
may
NEEDLES
Each
denotes
number,
in
thousandths
size
number
packaged
Class
needle
able
Type
154
for
of
No.
GAS
To
sample
on
label.
Selection
should
pass
Success
of
needles
putation
more
than
Union
the
kind
stamped
represent
and
sold
39500
Style
the
recommended
Round
struck
025,
have
needle
needle,
A
complete
of
freely
in
packaged
for
producing
three-quarters
Special
of
shank,
on
of
an
by
machines
39500
shank,
groove,
027,
or
the
proper
through
the
operation
the
needle
inch,
the
Union
MH
029,
orders
type
order
needle
under
highest
needle
point,
has
length,
shank,
midway
complete
Special.
use a curved
is
Type
154
needle.
round
point,
spotted,
032,
036,
promptly
and
size
would
read: "1000
size
needle
our
of
eye
Union
brand
quality
of a century.
both
type
groove,
denotes
between
symbol
shank
which
blade
GAS.
Below
Description
curved
chromium
040,
and
044, 049,
accurately
number
is
determined
in
order
Special
name,
.
~.
needles
and
finish
largest
is
needle.
is
and
blade,
plated
should
Needles,
to
produce a good
machines
in
materials
size
and
diameter
and
eye.
given
The
the
Sizes
standard
and
054,
filled,
be
forwarded.
by
size
number.
other
of
Collectively,
on
the
label
standard
description
length,
is
available
060.
an
Type
can
154
of
thread
be
which
secured
is
and
The
type
details.
blade,
The
measured
type
of
all
recommended
and
sizes
single
in
sizes
empty
Use
GAS,
package,
description
Size
used.
stitch
formation.
only
backed
by
workmanship
number
size
and
needles
avail-
groove,
022,
040".
Thread
by
use
are-
for
a
Release
Fig.
1)
direction
No.
21388
Again
turn
To
left,
insert
position,
nut.
Return
(AG).
After
through
eyelet.
front
that
to
the
through
and
third
tension
front
thread
pressure
and
swing
until
AU,
handwheel
replace
needle
turn
presser
thread
back
Next
it
back
lower
the
upper
through
discs
guide
presser
needle
furnished
needle,
in
handwheel
comes
hole
and
of
is
threaded
then
looper
hole
the
(J),
through
(M).
on
presser
is
at
until
leave
holder
until
arm
from
thread
through
thread
back
lower
CHANGING
arm
its
lowest
with
machine,
needle
needle
until
holder
(U)
to
cones
eyelet
through
the
is
threaded
to
front,
hole
tension
foot
(U)
out
point
is
at
holder
it
rests
is
position
THREAD
on
(B),
the
lower
second
back
to
post
NEEDLES
by
turning
of
position.
of
travel.
~oosen
high
position;
at
against
again
at
andre-lock
STAND
cone
then
upper
holes
support
down
holes
from
through
through
front.
slot
All
(K)
presser
needle
high
its
the
threads
in
Turn
Using
withdraw
position
stop
low
pin.
point
presser
(A,
through
of
tension
back
tension
the
tension
foot
release
handwheel
hexagonal
clamp
and
Keeping
of
foot
Fig.
the
thread
to
front.
thread
middle
then
post
socket
nut
about
needle.
with
travel;
release
1),
it
is
front
hole
guide
It
should
guide
hole
continue
(G)
and
bushing
in
operating
1/4
the
flat
needle
then
brought
of
(C),
front
between
on
(AG,
wrench
turn.
to
in
this
tighten
bushing
thread
(C)
from
be
noted
first
to
back
through
the
up
the
5
li]
Tension
(I
Tension
II
Tension
[!]
Tension
IIJ
spring
O Tension
Nut
Spring
Spring~
Post
Shield
Discs ·-.
Ferrule
..
·
:<:
~
~
....
··
·.
~.-~~
.,...
......
(3
II
[i
fiJ
~U
I3
Tension
Tension
Tension
Front
pper
Lower
Post
Disc
Thr
Looper
Looper
Slot :
Felt · ..
Thread
ead Guide
Thread
Thread
Guide
Eyel
et
Eyelet
Cone Support
,.....,
"1'1~~::.
~
...
..
Presser
Release
~
Cam
II
eedle
~
Top
Needle
Foot
Bushing
Pull-off
rlW
Thread
Cover
Thread
Eyel
et
Eyelet
Frame
D
Thread
m
Press
Looper
Guide
er
Arm
F ig . 1
6
Upper
Thread Tube
Looper
Assembly
THREADING
Only
are
placed in
It
threading
Before
ting
direction
by
turning
position.
Be
tension
Thread
double
Fig.
1)
{AF).
thread
{V)
is
eye
of
Thread
turn
handwheel
through
eyes
of
front
.
assembly
tube
assembly
thread
parts
will
lower
sure
discs
end
of
from
Lead
guide
all
the
lower
auxiliary
upper
of
looper
{AA),
through
involved
their
simplify
looper
beginning
until
presser
threads,
{J)
and
lower
looper
thread
right
to
thread
{T).
Turn
way
to
looper
upper
looper
until
looper
looper
thread
lead
(AA).
upper
in
relative
threading
first.
to
needle
foot
as
in
diagonal
and
lead
left.
behind
handwheel
the
left;
can
be
point
thread
pull-off
thread
Pull
looper
threading
positions
upper
thread,
{X)
is
release
they
come
TO
THREAD
thread
it
Note:
fabric
then
threaded
TO
THREAD
thread
of
thread
eyelet
under
thread
eye
are
this
looper
swing
at
high
bushing
from
slots
through
through
thread
guard
in
thread
easily
through
upper
eyelet
(N)
(AF).
neck
out
from
shown
for
clarity.
machine
second
cloth
position,
{AG)
the
{K)
in
tension
LOWER
right
both
must
{S)
and
operating
through
if
UPPER
left
looper
{P)
from
from
left
After
of
top
bottom
front
to
in
threading
to
follow
and
plate
open,
release
and
tension
LOOPER
eyelet
eyes
pass
of
in
through
direction
both
tweezers
LOOPER
eyelet
{W)
of
is
back
to
right.
pulling
cover
of
casting
tube;
back.
recommended
needle
turn
pressure
swing
thread
posts
of
{G).
front
lower
front
eyelet
until
eyes
are
held
front
all
the
to
front,
Note:
up
upper
push
diagram
third.
handwheel
presser
guide
thread
looper
of
looper
hole
heel
from
in
thread
way
thread
looper
and
down
tube
{Fig.
on
arm
{C),
guide
thread
thread
of
of
left
left
guide
left.
then
through
down.
1).
sequence
in
presser
{U)
are
between
{M).
eyelet
frame
lower
to
right.
hand.
{M).
Lead
through
must
thread
then
Parts
of
opera-
foot
out
of
Then
{R.
pull-off
looper
looper
Left
Then
thread
both
pass
in
tube
thread
insert
CAUTION!
passing
from
Threa9
handwheel
Insert
{AD),
thread
those
The
heading
Para.
Para.
needle
under
eyelet
All
instructions
for
differences,
and
1..
3...
tube
needle
in
operating
neck
{AC).
Style
paragraph
.
the
point
lower
of
Be
sure
assembly
thread
direction
thread
of
from
top
Thread
ASSEMBLING
pertaining
39500
FP
covered
applicable
where
With
front
throat
end
should
At
this
looper
needle (Fig.
upper
to
TO
through
right
cover
needle
only
they
"SETTING
plate
of
be
set
point,
at
left
5),
looper
upper
THREAD
middle
until
to
left,
casting;
from
AND
to
the
in
Catalog
to
Style
can
assembled
needle
15/32
insert
end
using
thread
looper
eye.
THE
eyelet
needle
(X,
through
then
down
front.
ADJUSTING
adjustment
No.
39500
be
found
THE
slot.
inch
lower
of
its
looper
NEEDLE"
When
above
looper
stroke, set
gauge
is
under
NEEDLE
of
front
Fig.
both
through
SEWING
of
Style
103
FA
MH
are
in
Catalog
in
position,
needle
throat
(A,
looper
No.
lower
thread
1)
is
at
eyes
of
hole
PARTS
39500
with
the
described
No.
needle
is
at
high
plate.
Fig.
point
21225-3/32.
looper
guide
its
( M).
highest
needle
in
top
MH
are
following
below.
103
FA.
should
position,
5)
into
3/32
thread
Then
position.
thread
cover
the
same
exceptions.
under
center in
bar
(B).
from
when
turn
eyelet
ne
edle
as
the
needle
With
center
7
33
/
,(
{
..-~-
···
'~/
./1
I
I
I
/
/
/
/
15
21
18
8
7
The
that
parts
are
illustrated
used
on
Style
on
the
39500
preceding
MH,
but
page
not
and
used
described
on
Style
below
39500
represent
FP.
the
parts
Those
common
Use
in
Reference
descriptions,
Ref.
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
Catalog
this
39592
39540
39540
39505
39526
39505
39503
39503
12957
22758
22569
39503
39571
39572
39570
39578
39549
39550
39550
39524
39556
39556
22798
39556
39520
39530
39530
39530
39578
parts
to
catalog.
Part
No.
604
605
87 u
28
shown
Styles
No.
numbers
indicate
AR-4
B-7
B-8
AR
AR
A
D
E
E
c
c
c
A
J
TA
J
p
R
X
M
L
D
X
K
J
s
in
phantom
39500
103
FP
and
FA
(Style
that
are
inside a bracket
they
Upper
Main
Differential
Chaining
Differential
Main
Edge
Screw,
Edge
Washer,
Screw,
Screw,
Edge
Upper
Upper
Upper
Chip
Lower
Lower
Lower
Throat
Screw,
Chain
PresserArm---------------------------------------Presser
Fabric
are
and
Feed
Feed
Guide------------------------------------------
for
Guide
for
for
Guide
Knife
Knife
Knife
Guard------------------------------------------
Knife----------------------------------------Knife
Knife
Plate,
for
Cutting
Chain
Screw-------------------------------------------
Foot---------------------------------------Presser
Hinge
Screw------------------------------------------Edge
Screw-------------------------------------------
Guard----------------------------------------
views
MH.
39500
component
Lower
Driving
Feed
Feed
for
Guide,
Dog,
Feed
Dog,
edge
Swinging
swinging
swinging
mounting
Mounting
Clamp
Holder
-----------------------------------------
Holder
Holder
marked
chain
Knife-----------------------------------
Cutter
Foot
Spring-------------------------------------
and
bearing
FP)
for
all
parts
on
the
picture
parts
Description
Looper
Eccentric--------------------------
Driving
20
teeth
Dog,
marked
guide
cutting
Blade-------------------------------
Bottom-----------------------------
marked
marked
--------------------------------
Arm-----------------------------
arm
arm
bracket
Bracket--------------------------
Stud-------------------------------
Block-----------------------------
Spring---------------------------Locating
"AR"
knife
of a complete
Thread
Eccentric--------------------
per
"FD",
"FC",
-----------------------------
"A"
16
----------------------------
--------------------------
Stud----------------------
---------------------------
-------------------------
-------------------------
no
reference
not
illustrated
plate
Tension
inch-------------------
teeth
Spring---------
16
teeth
per
and
part
per
inch
numbers,
have
or
or
described
assembly.
inch
--------
are
indented
Amt.
Req.
2
1
1
1
--
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
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9
BOOST
PRODUCTION
WITH
WORK
UNION
THESE
AIDS
SPECIAL
FROM
PNEUMATIC
conventional
ssor-act
sci
pos
itive
AIR
FABRIC
signed
to remove
knit materials as fabric passes
area.
Style
CHAIN·CUTTER-for
Class
ion mechanism
cut.
Style
Class
curls
2899
UNCURLER
39500
from
B-1
for
39500
and
2899
A· I
machines, uses
top
and
that
bottom
39600
- This
use
is
a durable
makes a clean
unit,
air
plies
through
sewing
of
on
de-
jets
flat
PNEUMATIC
operated
machines
simply
by
CHAIN
CUTTER-
small
pneumatic
for
installatron as an accesso •y unit
36200
Flatseamers.
FOOT
fool
lifter
allows
the
knee-touching
The
chain
Style
LIFTER-The
for
use on
operator
an
above
cutter
2899A-6
Class
the
shows
on
39500
Class
to raise
actuating swi
photo
that is available
air-
foot
tch.
the
KNIFE
GRINDER
type knives,
nates defective garments caused by
sharpens
is
simple and easy
straight
to
operate,
dull kno
®
u
fiNISIQUALIIY
MACHINE
ELECTRONIC
wheel to move
insuring
better
the
needle up
control, uni
NEEDLE
or
form
POSITIONERS
down
.••
quality
AMCO
or
angle
ves.
allows
HEAT
uml
o
il
quires
eliminate
elimi-
this
and increased pr
DISPELLER-Union
(arrow)
temperature
the
is
it.
Style
the
necessity
operator to keep
oduction.
an effective means
where heavy
2899
E-1
Special's auxiliary
duty
of
reaching f
both
hands
for
reducing
service re-
or
the
on
the
hand-
work,
He
lpful,
c
ient
types
mac
hine
Sales
Promotion
esting,
obligation
illustrated
authoritative
of
equi
sewed
article
Department.
bulletins
are the
following:
information
pment
is available
for
that
on
making virtually
from
Among
the
are available wi
the
most
Union
many inter-
effi
any
Special's
thout
-
HERE
ARE
HELPFUL
No.
240,
"Men's,
No.
249,
"Rainwear"
No.
250,
"Men's
No.
251,
"Service
No.
252,
"Men's
No.
253,
"Overalls, Coveralls, and
No.
254,
"Men's
No.
256,
"Knit
No.
259,
"Men's
No.
260,
"Work
No.
262,
"Cotton,
Bags"
No.
263,
"Men's
No.
264,
"Men's
No.
265,
"Women's
No.
266,
"Women's
No.
26 7, "Corsets, Girdles, Brassieres"
No.
268,
"Children's
No.
269,
"Mattresses,
Upholstery"
No.
271,
"Awnings,
No.
273, "Curtains & Drapes"
No.
610,
"Kiipp-it"
No.
710,
"MCS
No.
730,
"MCS
Hemmer"
No. 740,
No.
No.
No.
"
Columbia
ing Mac
No. 1500,
750,
1100,
1105,
hines"
"MCS
"Fusing
"Lew
stitch,
"Button
Women's,
Dress
Shirts
Shorts
Knit
Outerwear"
Sports
Gloves"
Burlap,
Clothing"
Women's,
ForMation
Automatic
Automat
Presses"
is
Blindstitch,
Machines"
Sewers-
Blindstitch,
"Alteration
Shirts"
and
and Pajamas"
Underwear"
Shirts"
Jute,
Children's
Wear"
Wear
And
Wear"
Slip
Covers,
Canopies, Tents,
Unit"
Dual
ic
Rib-Knit
Saddle
Department
Children's
Pants"
Dungarees"
and
High
Furniture
Underfront
Chainstitch,
Ticket
Tackers"
Stitch
Machines"
Footwear"
Multiwall
Jackets"
Fashion"
Tarps"
Cuff
Machine "
Lock·
, a
nd Tie
Paper
Shirt
Clo
BULLETINS
TO
HELP
SEWING
s-
and
YOU
CATALOGS
SOLVE
PROBLEMS
®
,...o
"'
...
'
0
WORLD'S
,..tlf
FINEST
QUALITY
*
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
MACHINES
UNION
facilities throughout
aid
you
SPECIAL
in
the selection of the right sewing
maintains sales
the
world. These offices
and
equipment for your particular operation. Union
Special representatives
tory trained
promptly
tion,
there
and
and
is
a Union Special Representative to
serve you. Check with
ATLANTA,
BOSTON, MASS.
CHICAGO,
DALLAS,
LOS ANGELES, CAL.
NEW
PHILADELPHIA,
GA.
ILL.
TEXAS
YORK, N.
Y.
PA.
efficiently. Whatever your loca-
are
and
service men
able
to serve your needs
him
today.
MONTREAL, CANADA
TORONTO, CANADA
BRUSSELS, BELGIUM
LEICESTER,
LONDON,
PARIS, FRANCE
sTunG
ART, GERMANY
service
will
are
fac-
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
400
Representatives
MACHINE
N.
FRANKLIN
industrial
and
cities
distributors
throughout
COMPANY
ST.,
CHICAGO,
In
the
all
Important
world.
ILL.
60610
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