Union Special 39500MC User Manual

®

INDUSTRIAL SEWING

FINEST QUALITY

STYLE

39500

MC

LEWIS

•

COLUMBIA

MACHINES

•

CATALOG

No.

CLASS

HI-STYLED

TWO

OR

HEMMER

DIFFERENTIAL

CHICAGO

HIGH

THREE

OR

FEED

39500

SPEED

THREAD

SERGER

MACHINES

(Supplement

Catalog

to

Catalog

INSTRUCTIONS

FOR

No.

103

MC

No.

103

FA)

ADJUSTING

LIST

First

AND

OF

CLASS

Style

39500

OPERATING

PARTS

39500

MC

Edition

Union

Rights

Copyright

By

Special

Reserved

1969

Machine

in

All

Countries

MACHINE COMPANY

INDUSTRIAL

Printed

August,

1969

SEWING

CHICAGO

in

3

MACHINES

U.S.

A.

Co.

IDENTIFICATION

OF

MACHINES

the

Each machine.

Union

numbers Example: only

minor

dard

Style

Styles which 3

95

junction FA

differs

00".

This

are

catalog

therewith.

illustrated illustration and

the

number numbers ference

ber

listed

This in. Class given

of

handwheel

numbers

It

can

39500.

from

only,

catalog

Special

Style

have

"Style

changes

number.

of

machines

from

will

and

in

the

also

References

the

operator's

is

machine

numbers

one

or

more

39500

are

MC".

made

Example:

similar

the

Style

is a

supplement

Only

and

listed

be

found a listing

of

pieces

merely should second

applies be

away

never

column.

specifically

applied

from

is

identified

are

classified

letters

Special

in a standard

"Style in

construction

number

APPLICATION

to

those

parts

at

the

of required. indicate

be

with

to

directions,

position

the

used

discretion

while

operator.

suffixed,

Style

39500

in

that

Catalog

used

back

the

of

parts,

Numbers

position

in

ordering

to

the

such

seated

by a Style

as

standard

but

numbers

machine~

MCZ".

are

grouped

it

contains

OF

CATALOG

No.

103

on

Style

this

39500

catalog.

with

in

of

that

their

the

parts.

standard

to

as

some

right,

at

the

Style

number

and

never

contain

a

"Z"

no

letters.

FA

and

MC,

On

part

first

part

Always

of

Special

left~

machine.

on a name special. contain

the

is

suffixed

the

letter

Standard

"Z".

to

under a Class

Example:

should

but

the

numbers~

column

in

the illustration.

machine

Styles

front~

be

not

page

use

as of

back,

used

on

opposite

are

the

listed

machines

Operatin

plate

Style

letter

"Z".

When

the

stan-

number,

"Class

in

con-

Style

39500

the

description

reference

Re-

part

num-

here-

etc.,

g di

are

rection

on

in

Hi-Styled Thread Trimming

System.

39500

MC

thread

cotton~

505 inch. Maximum

CAUTION!

filled

before straight should

be

Machine

sight

gauge

lines

Machine

main

reservoir

High

and

Two

Mechanism

Light

blind

flat

EFd-1.

Stitch

beginning

mineral

used.

is on when

is

Speed,

Looper

Single

Three

with

to

medium

hemming

and

ribbed

Standard

range 8 to

recommended

Oil

was

drained to

oil

of a Saybolt

filled

front

with

of

machine.

machine

automatically

filled.

Check

STYLE

Curved

Thread

Spring

duty~

or

serging

knit

seam

30

per

speed 7 000

from

operate.

viscosity

oil

at

spring cap

Red

is

stationary.

lubricated.

oil

daily

OF

Blade

Pressed

two

way

small

materials.

width

for

inch.

OILING

machine

Oil

bulb

before

MACHINE

Needle~

Over

seaming

Lower

combination diameter

hemming

Cam

R.

P.M.

capacity

of

2 00

in

on

oil

No

oil

the

One

Knife,

Seam

specifications

1 I 8

adjusted

when

top

shipped~

of

Class

to

250

cover.

level

ing

is

morning

Looper-One

Machine.

Automatic

machine,

light

weight

inch

main

and

39500

seconds

Oil

indicator

necessary,

start;

Differential

for

rayon~

503

and

for

different

so

reservoir

is

si?E,

at

100

level

should

other

add

oil

Spreader

Lubricatin

two

or

s

ilk,

EFc-1~

sergin

ial

must

ounces.

Fahrenheit

is

checked

show

between

than

keepin

as

required.

Two

Feed~

g

three

wool~

or

g 3 I

16

feeds.

be

A

at

g

The

oil

It

is a magnetic

have

entered

drain

the

plug

screw

crank

screw

designed

case.

is

located

It

to

accumulate

should

at

back

be

4

of

machine

possible

removed

foreign

and

near

cleaned

bottom edge

materials

periodically.

of

which

base.

may

NEEDLES

Each denotes number, in

thousandths

size

number

packaged

Class needle

for

available Type 154

sample on

No.

GAS

To

label.

have

needle,

Selection

should

pass

Success

of

needles

reputation

more

than

Union

the

kind

Special

of

stamped

of

represent

and

sold

39500

machines

Style

of

the

recommended

Round struck 025, 027,

needle

or

A

complete

of

proper

freely in

the

packaged

for

producing

three-quarters

shank,

on

the

an

inch,

the

by

Union

39500

shank,

groove,

029,

orders

the

type

order

through

operation

under

needle

has

point,

needle

shank,

midway

complete

Special.

use a curved

MC

is

Type needle.

round

point,

spotted,

032, 036,

promptly

and

size

would

needle

size

needle

of

Union

our

brand

highest

of a century.

both

type

length,

groove,

denotes

between

symbol

blade

154

GAS.

Description

curved

chromium

040, 044, 049,

and

number

read:

is

determined

eye

in

Special

name,

quality

needles

and

largest

shank

which

needle.

Below

blade,

plated

accurately

should

"1

000

Needles,

order

to

machines

~

size

finish

number.

and

other

diameter

and

is

and

eye.

given

The

is

Sizes

Collectively,

on

the

standard

the

description

standard

and

is

available

054. filled,

be

forwarded.

Type

by

size

of

produce a good

can

be

.

in

materials

The

details.

of

blade,

label

length,

an

empty

Use

154

GAS,

thread

stitch

secured

which

and

workmanship

type

number

The

measured

type

of

all

needles

recommended

and

sizes

single

in

groove,

sizes

package, description

Size

used.

027".

Thread

formation.

only

by

is

backed

by

size

and

022,

a

use

a

for

Release Fig. 1 or direction No.

21388AU,

Again

left,

To

insert

turn

replace

position, nut.

Return

(AG).

After

up

through thread thread back, is

threaded

eyelet.

are

and

through to

front.

post

slot

pressure

1A)

and

until

handwheel

needle

turn

presser

thread

the

threaded

then

through

the

middle

All

(K)

swing

needle

is

furnished

needle,

in

handwheel

comes

back

hole

Next,

through

the

hole

threads

in

tension

on

presser

at

its

until

leave

holder

until

arm

from

of

the the

lower

upper

from

then

post

CHANGING

arm

lowest

with

machine,

needle

needle until

holder

(U)

to

cones

thread

upper

the

upper

hole

front

continue

(G)

foot

by

(U)

out

point

is

at

high

holder

it

rests

is

position

THREAD

on

cone

eyelet

looper

hole

hole,

of

to

from

the

back

between

and

on

NEEDLES

turning

of

position.

of

travel.

loosen

position;

at

high

against

again

and

at re-lock

STAND

support

(B),

thread

of

tension

back

tension

and

then

the

through

presser

needle

position

stop

its

low

(A,

then

(505

to

front.

thread

through

tension

eyelets

foot

Turnhandwheel

Using

hexagonal

clamp

withdraw

and,

pin.

point

Keeping

of

presser

Fig.

down

1

through

STITCH

thread

guide

The

guide

(C)

the

discs

in

front

release

nut

needle.

with

travel;

foot

release

or

1A)

the

only)

(C)from

lower

from

lower

(J),

through

thread

bushing

in

socket

about

the needle

then

it

front

and

looper back

hole

operating

wrench

1/4

turn.

flat

to

in

tighten

bushing

is

brought hole

the

needle

front

thread

to

front,

from

back

tension

guide

(AG,

the

this

of

to

(M).

NOTE:

Refer

to

Fig.

1

for

threading

503

stitch

stitch.

5

or

Fig.

1A

for

threading

505

li]

Tension Nut

~~

Tension

II

Tension Spring

[!]

Tension

IIJ

spring

Spring

Post

Shield _

Fer~

---,~/

nlh~l\d:\\

~~

Thread

Eyelet

O Tension

P!.ll

Tension

..

II

Tension

f1J

Front

I:J

Lower

Discs

Post Disc

Thread

Looper

< .

Slot .

••.

Felt

Thread

'......

. ..

--~;:::.:"

·-~"">"

. j

~~~

Presser

Release

0

Foot

Bushing

BJ

D)

Fabric

Presser

Fig.

Guard

1

6

......

Top

Needle

Upper

Thread

Cover

Thread

Looper

Tube

Assembly

Eyelet

li]

Tension Nut

(I

Ten

IJ

Tension

[!]

Tension

IIJ

spring

sio

n Spring

Fer

~

Spring~

Post

Shield

r..-~:=-h'\.1

g Tension

~~Te

II

[i

f1J

~~~

I:J

nsion

Tension

Front

Upper

Lower

Discs

Post Disc

Thread

Looper

-<:

.

Slot ·.

Felt

Guide

Thread

Cone Support

·.

Eyelet

Frame

D

Thread

m

Presser

Looper

Guide

Arm

7

M~:.

Top

Needle

Thread

Upper

Lower

Thread

Upper

Tube

Looper

Cover

Eyelet

Looper

Assembly

Only

Parts

It

are

will quence The

recommended

looper

parts

placed

simplify

of

threading

second

involved

in

their

the

sequence

and

the

in

threading

relative

threading

lower

needle

of

looper

of

threading

third.

THREADING

are

shown

positions

these

first

for

machines

and

the

in

clarity.

the

505

threading

to

follow

needle

stitch

is

diagram

the second lower

(Fig. 1 and

recommended for

the

503

looper

first~

1A).

se-

stitch.

upper

Before

ting

direction

foot

by

position.

Be tween posts for

tension should

the

Double

(M,

Fig. 1 or

let

(R~

thread thread (V)

is

all

eye

of

Double

Fig.

to

the

1A).

left. front, NOTE:

beginning

turning

sure

the

be

different

end

Fig. 1 or pull-off guide

lower

the

{T).

way

looper

end

Turn

Lead

then

through

Thread

until

needle

presser

threads,

discs

(J)

positioned

threads

of

thread

1A).

1A)

(AF).

Turn

to

TO

of

thread

handwheel

thread

must

to

thread, foot

as

and

as

TO

and

Then

lead

from

Lead

handwheel

the

left,

can

be

THREAD

and

through

both

eyes

pass

swing

(X)

is

at

release

they

in

tension

so

the

indicated

THREAD

lead

thread

right

to

thread

then

threaded

THE

lead

until

of

in

front

cloth

high

bushing

come

post

tension

in THE

it

through

left.

behind

in

operating

thread

easily UPPER

it

through

point

auxiliary

upper

of

looper

plate

position.

(AG)

from

the

slots

post

Fig. 1 and

LOWER

the

both

NOTE:

fabric

through

if

tweezers

LOOPER

the

of

upper

looper

thread

open

Now

and

tension

(K)

in

slot

will

1A.

LOOPER

right

eyes thread guard direction

both

left

eyelet

looper

thread

pull-off

and

turn

release

swing

thread

tension

be

at

eyelet

of

lower

must

(S)

and until

eyes

are

(505

of

(W~

eyelet

handwheel

pressure

presser

guide

posts

the

approximate

of

front

looper

pass

through

heel

from

in

left

STITCH

front

Fig.

1A)

eyelet

{N)

from

(AF).

arm

(G).

in

front

of

to

hand.

ONLY)

thread

(P)

in

on

(U)

(C)~

The

thread

of

frame

lower

right.

guide

is

all

from

left

to

opera-

presser

out

are

be-

tension

angle

guide

eye-

looper

Left

(M~

the

way

back

right.

of

to

After

of

top

bottom

looper

Double

(M,

at

its needle in

top

The

nuts

stitch

pulling

cover

of

tube;

from

front

end

Fig. 1 or

highest

thread

cover

needle

amount

(D,

Fig. 1 or

formation.

up

casting

push

to

needle

1A).

position.

eyelet

thread

of

tension

lA).

upper

and

tube

back.

thread

Then

Insert

(AD),

looper

down

through

down

TO

and

turn

needle

under

eyelet

on

the

Tension

thread

tube

thread

and

then

THREAD

lead

it

handwheel

thread

neck

of

(AC).

THREAD

needle

on

and

threads

assembly

tube

insert

THE

NEEDLE

through

in

operating

from

top

cover

Thread

TENSION

looper

should

8

assembly

thread

middle

right

casting;

needle

threads

be

(AA),

throu

eyelet

direction

to

left,

from

is

only

enough

lead

thread

(AA).

gh

of

front

until

through

then

down

front.

regulated

Pull

the

eye

thread guide

needle

both eyes

throu

to

secure

under

thread

of

gh

by

tension

proper

neck

out

upper

(X)

is of

hole

PRESSER

FOOT

PRESSURE

Sufficient should or

loosen Adjusting creases pressure lock position

be

maintained.

decrease

lock

screw

pressure.

adjusting

nut

(A).

locking proximately adjusting

Feed

screw

eccentrics approximately feed

eccentric 39540 of chine

B-8.

stitches

will

obtainable

be

Generally

of

stitches

and

direction

produced;

presser

the

nut

(A.

has a right

With

nut

1 I 32

(B).

14 is

Minor

shipped

speaking,

of

stretch

foot

amount

Fig.

loosening

screw

presser

(C)

inch

to Set

used stitches No.

39540

numbers

when

with

main

pressure

Should

2)

of

and

it

pressure

hand

decreases

(B)

has

foot

so

that

1 I

16

inch

cap

(D)

FEED

in

Style

per

inch.

B-14.

of

the

using

above

differential

(left

hand)

of

material

to

feed

be

necessary

on

turn

adjusting

thread.

so

pressure.

been

properly

resting

its

under

from

the

against

ECCENTRICS

39500

while

that

MC

It

will

that

part

eccentric.

symbol

combination

(right

feed

eccentric

being

work

to

presser

screw

tightening

set.

on

throat

surface

top

locking

machines

be

noted

of

the

of

hand)

sewn.

uniformly

increase

foot~

(B).

in-

When

tighten

plate.

is

ap-

surface

nut

of

(C).

have

that

the

differential

indicate

Unless

eccentrics.

feed

eccentric

is

selected

or

type

of

been

part

selected

number

feed

eccentric

approximately

otherwise

specified.

determines

in

relation

operation.

Fig.

to

of

the

2

produce

the

main

is

number

to

degree

No.

ma-

Following

-6.-7.

-36,-40. may

be

number

-8.

-9.

Only

ordered

suffixed

stitch

-10. -11. two

eccentrics

separately.

to

indicate

number

-12,-13.

feed

eccentrics

-14. -15.

are

supplied

To

order

number

of

ASSEMBLING

Before remove knife ming

cloth

assembly~

guide

quence.

With

should

needle

112 or driving (B).

is

inch

set

Remove

center

the

arm

properly

-16.

-18,-20.

with

an

eccentric.

stitches

assembling

plate.

assembly;

SETTING

throat

in

at

high

above

height

(A,

throat

and

are

available

each

AND

lower

plate

the position.

throat

above

Fig.

clamp

-22. -24.

machine.

use

desired.

ADJUSTING

and

fabric

knife

then

THE

assembled

front

end

needle

plate

(Fig.

throat

3)

by

plate.

screw

under

No.

-26. -28.

39540

-30.

Additional

No.

39540 B with a minor

Example:

"39540

SEWING

adjusting

guard,

holder

follow

this

sewing parts.

chip

guard,

assembly.

suggested

NEEDLE

in

position.

of

3).

plate.

loosening

after

(B)

needle has

needle

point

should

To

mov clamp

has

been

slot.

ali

B-4.

-5.

-32. -34.

eccentrics

B-8".

PAR

TS

upper

hem-

se-

ne

edle

When

be

set

gn ne

e ne

edle edle

screw

been

set

tightened.

At

this

Fi

g. 3

bar

(B).

set

looper using looper

ble

differential

point. With point

looper

gauge

deflecting

9

insert

lower

3 I 32

No.

needle.

(front)

looper

inch

2122 feed

lower

at

from

5-3 I 32.

Tighten

dog.

looper

left

center

nut

(A~

end

of

Do

(C).

Fig.

of

its needle not

have

Now

4)

into

stroke~

(Fig.

4)

lower

assem-

looper

u?til

moves

the

Fig.

needle

4

to

the

springs

right,

forward

its

possible, looper in

position inch. Make needle

point

from

SETTING

Set

rear

or

Screw

sure

guard

Now

finish

should

rear

THE

needle

without

movement

to

deflect

(B)

there

and

SETTING

lower

be

set

guard

surface

REAR

guard

interfering

of

lower

needle

is

used

is

no

lower

THE

looper

into

the

NEEDLE

(A,

Fig.

with knife forward

to

set

rear

interference looper.

LOWER

needle

another

LOOPER

adjustment.

scarf

GUARD

5)

as

high

either

holder,

needle

between

. 002 - • 004

but

• 002 - • 004

As

(A.

Fig.

as

lower

still

guard.

rear

lower

6)

inch.

Assemble looper guard

(D)

is

setting.

guard

Fig.

the

right position end

of

upper

SETTING

is

springing

as

close

used

to

make

and

differential

SETTING

6

end

the

upper

the

upper

looper

or

front

as

possible

adjust

sure

THE

of

its

looper

spreader

THE

FRONT

needle

and

set

there

feed

UPPER

Insert upper (B)

holds

in

its

looper

out.

or

upper

shaft, (C.

Fig.

looper and

allows

justed Preliminary

stroke,

looper

or

guard

off

back

to

needle

front

is

no

dog.

LOOPER

spreader

the

holder.

or

turned

looper

if

not

7)

or

spreader

laterally.

the

or

spreader

holder

NEEDLE

(C.

Fig.

guard.

without

needle

interference

OR

upper

spreader

on

upper

and

around

or

already

clamp

holder

Setting:

upper

shank

(Fig.

looper in

spreader

holder

to

looper

shank

7).

GUARD

5).

When

set

front

touching.

guard.

between

SPREADER

(A.

its

holder. looper permits

to

collar

be

pushed

its

shank.

in

place.

rotated

When

or

slightly

should

or

holder

holds

in

needle

Screw

After

needle

Fig.

Screw

spreader

the

Insert

Screw

the

or

the

upper

spreader

back

extend

lower

this

7)

or

upper

in

or

into

upper shaft,

ad-

of

1 I 32

looper

holder

vertical

to

or

1 I

Fig.

spreader

should

(Fi

16

inch

5

be

g.

above

7).

is

set

at to

Top

the

As

the

Fig.

7

upper

the

point

should

approximately

or

spreader

Turn

at

the upper extend and

also

If

resetting

spreader

of

pass

the

left

end

looper

about

be

holder

15

looper

the

upper

just

behind

• 002

and

the

handwheel

of

its

or

the

5132

inch

I 32

inch

is

necessary.

(A,

or

looper

inch lower

until

travel.

lower

to

the

above

Fig.

spreader

or

the

eye

clearance

looper

the At

point

left

the

do

it

9).

10

the

upper

this

of of

top

by

moves

Vee

of

the

between

(Fig.

looper

position.

the

upper

the

centerline

of

the

moving

from

notch

lower

8).

throat

the

right

of

the

looper.

the

upper

or

spreader

the

point

spreader

of

plate

upper

to

spreader

looper

of

should

the

needle

(Fig.

looper

left. with

is

the

9). or

SETTING

THE

UPPER

LOOPER

OR

SPREADER

(Continued)

Fig.

SETTING Now

feed

chaining

all

1 0) teeth plane.

by

with a straight assemble dogs with rotating

bar.

dog

feed so

the

all

sighting

should

throat

8

THE

assemble

(B,

feed

dogs

top

lie

This

across

throat

now

plate

feed

FEED

main Fig. dog

(C).

(A,

B,

surfaces

in

the

can

be

the

edge.

plate.

be

surface

tilting

Now

ference

spreader

downstroke. upper looper

slightly tance left

end justments, reduce

looper

set

to

and

9.

DOGS

(back)

10)

and

Set

C,

Fig.

of

the

same

checked

teeth

Now

Feed

leveled

by

adjusting

check

between

and

looper

or

and

counterclockwise,

of

the

clearance

or

spreader

maintain

setting

the

If

needle

or

spreader,

spreader

rotate

machine.

in

opposite

dimension

(D).

This

needle

looper a short

and

to

avoid

upper

on

rubs

out

These

between

the

the pull of

looking

movement,

needle.

of

raises

inter-

looper

the

needle

back

the

upper

its

holder

same

the

upper

Figs.

Fig.

or

of

dis-

from

ad-

will Re-

8

10

lowers

the

Fig.

back

9

end

of

feed

The teeth feed and throat

surface

ing

(A, sleeve bracket and manually (D) throat hexagonal Lower

So

trim

tightening

first

tilting

differential

plate,

Replace the

lower

Fig.

(B)

holder

should

plate

knife

no

lateral

is

changed

Lower

feed

dogs

appear

adjusting

and

of

throat

SETTING

lower

knife

11)

so

seats

(C) a free

assembly

pressed

be

set

surface.

head

is

spring

adjustment

knife screw

should

above

feed

chaining

plate.

THE

knife

holder

that

when

against

lateral

is

at

its

with

screw

may

be

(E)

be

set

throat

in

dog

holder

obtained

upper

the

Adjustments

which

pressed

is

secured

against

plate.

place.

teeth

feed

LOWER

assembly.

assembly,

the

face

the

throat

motion

corner.

cutting

necessary

level

Screw

Now

3/64

dog

teeth

KNIFE

of

plate

of

the

when

edge

are

holds

against

in

any

knife

at

the

set

inch

flush

In

tighten

the

lower the Lower

flush

made

lower

upper

when

position

holder

time

(E)

locks

the

main

above

with

replac-

screw

flange

mounting

knife

with

knife.

width

shaft.

the

on

is

the

of

by

Fig.

11

knife

Set

to

the

desired

the

needle~

SETTING

width

lock

of

the

THE

trim

lower

LOWER

by

measuring

knife

holder

KNIFE

from

shaft

(Continued)

the

right

with

screw

edge

(E).

of

the

lower

Replace

ting

nut bottom 1/64

inch

against

After tightened when

upper

Length

feed

eccentrics actuates eccentric

In

assembling feed

ing

each

Tighten

To

(D)

from

direction

Using tries back

hooked

as

and

upperknifeassembly.

(G)

to

of

its

below

the

upper

to

lock

knife

SETTING

of

main

(B)

other.

nut

(C)

change

end

until

shown

forth

hold

stroke~

clamp

front

cutting

knife

upper

is

and

has

knife

replaced.

THE

stitch

(rear)

used.

is

determined Outer feed

actuates

eccentrics,

Be

careful

securely.

feed

eccentrics,

of

shaft

key

(E).

slot

eccentric

and

withdraw

slightly

during

SETTING

(H)

in

cutting

edge

of

slightly been

holding

STITCH

(left)

dog,

the

differential

not

remove

Turn

in

eccentric

extractor

eccentrics. extraction.

THE

Clamp

its

most edge

lower

knife.

back

set

for

block

LENGTH

by

the

eccentric

while

the

(front)

be

sure

to

damage

nut

handwheel

is

toward

(F)~

supplied

UPPER

upperknife

clockwise

of

upper

The

from

proper

(K)

the

width

in

place.

combination

(A,

Fig.

inner

feed

hubs

are

shaft

(C)

in

or

and

operating

the

with

It

may

KNIFE

(F~

Fig.

position

knife

cutting

chain

of

should

guard

edge.

trim~

This

of

12)

(right)

dog •

fac-

key

.

washer

front.

machine~

be

necessary

11)

against

extend

should

screw

will

simplify

Fig.

reach

to

in

position,

upper

not

be

(J)

12

behind

move

set-

knife.

less

set

should

At

than

down

be

resetting

eccen-

handwheel

If

eccentrics

and

washer

connection

clamp

screw

required.

The

foot

sure

the

presser

unlocked.

are

(D)

from

(H).

Then

Fig.

(G)

13

and

Retighten

lifter

arm

unusually shaft

continue

then

collar

lever

arm

does

tight

(E)~

it

as

shift

the

screws

(A,

not

bind

fitting,

may

be

helpful

originally

Assemble With into align throat

needle

sewing position

needle

plate. presser needle that throat

hole

the

plate. realigned foot

lifter

shaft,

and

Fig.

foot

clamp

and

loosen lifter

14) rise

in

addition

to

suggested.

SETTING

the

in

high

holes

The

foot

must

in

throat

bottom

If

with

throat

lever

collar

lever

screw.

and

the

when

to

removing

remove

THE

presser

nut

PRESSER

foot

position,

and

set

(front

front

be

of

the

necessary~

shaft

and

edge

aligned

plate.

presser

plate

(H,

Fig.

It

presser

slots

screws

shaft

collar

presser

to

(B) s

foot

the

ecure

nut

(G)

and

to

swing

the

presser

back)

of

with

is foot

14).

(B~

left

release

(

C~

feed

FOOT

presser

and

needle

front

also

be

flat

foot

by

shifting

To

Fig.

or

the

bushing

Fig.

13)

driving

arm.

arm

foot

to

flat

on

hole

edge

in of

important

on

the

can

be

the

move

shaft.

14)

right

the

and

as

Be

is

12

SETTING

THE

PRESSER

FOOT

(Continued)

NOTE:

1A.

With

and

in

the

Operate

moves

While

of

needle increase 1A)

farther

thread

off

thread

Fig.

Be

middle

machine

tongue

sewing

to

the

14

sure

machine

tensions

of

its

slowly

freely.

NEEDLE

on

material.

required

drawn

rear.

light.

front

for

on

the

presser upper the inch presser

should nut guard turnhandwheel

es

is

threaded

set

lower

to

back

with

location.

presser

THREAD

check

the

stitch

downstroke.

Adjust

lifter

foot

looper

nut

(D).

free

motion

foot

be

made

(F).

Re-assemble

and

cloth

its

highest

STARTING

according

looper

foot

in

CONTROL

needle

should

thread

be

position

lever

can

be

raised

or

spreader

There

begins

of

with

should

foot

to

screw

the

plate.

until

To

upper

position.

TO

OPERATE

to

threading

thread

place;

eyelet

make

(505 STITCH)

control

drawn

needle

on

thread

stop

no

will

be

lifter

rise.

(E)

chip

assemble

knife

diagram

(R)

sure

as

follows:

needle

screw

(C)

higher

permit;

from

lever

This

and

locked

1/16

before

adjustment

guard.

chip

assembly

Fig. 1 or

about

chain

horizontal

forms

About

downstroke.

eyelet

(AD.

so

than

then

to

fabric guard. reach-

that

the

lock

1/8

the

with

and

60%

To

Fig

•

Set

ward

in

Frame inch its

right

stroke.

With

to

rest

thread

Position

upper

To

lower

While needle should slightly stroke.

(AE)

just

needle

lower its

slot.

looper

of

material

on

top

is a little

looper

reduce

looper

sewing thread be

just

if

excessive

position

contacts

thread

LOWER

looper

LOOPER

thread

lower

looper

UPPER

under

of

lowerlooperthread

slack

presser

when

POSITIONING

of

lower

thread

amount

thread

looper

tensions.

of

lower

tension.

NEEDLE

on

material.

is

drawn

tight

on

enough

thread

needle

eyelet

thread

thread.

(AD, Fig. 1)

eyelet

guide

(V)

(T)

heel

LOOPER

upper

thread

THREAD

check needle to

feed

is

pulled

eyelet

THREAD

(R. Fig. 1A)

should

be

eyelet.

THREAD

foot.

set

eyelet

looper

THE

at

the

in

upper (R).

reaches

SQUARE

edge

the

CONTROL

needle

down

chain

To

farther

stroke.

off

on

the

(AD.

Fig.

increase

to

CONTROL

about

set

with

when

lower

CONTROL

looper

and

back

the

EDGE

is

located

stitch.

or

(503 STITCH)

thread

stitch

up

1) so

thread

the

At

top

tongue.

stroke.

rear.

control

that

drawn

(505 STITCH)

horizontal

its

eyelet

looper

and

is

(505 STITCH)

left

thread

far

end

eyelet

enough

of

(505 STITCH)

by

balancing

close

of

the

edge

as

follows:

needle

Stitch With needle

needle

thread

on

downstroke.

all

the

way

approximately

at

the

left

(N.

Fig.

so

upper

its

stroke.

needle and

more.

increa

Usually

stroke.

tends

to

at

cam

thread

pull

bottom

pull-off

position

for-

1/8

end

of

1A)

looper

se

all

down

of

13

LOWER

LOOPER

THREAD

CONTROL

With and left

Frame inch left

Before Moderate

SKIPPING:

1.

2.

3.

material down position.

to

the

end

of

Recheck Recheck

Upper

Check

looper

far

enough

Lower

looper

right

its

proceeding.

change

Looper clearance

or

of

travel.

in

For

occasional

lower

upper

spreader

under

thread

or

presser

so

thread

looper

heel

these

looper -needle

looper

Spreader".

between

thread

guide

eyelet

balance

tensions

SPECIAL

skipping.

or

needle

moves

foot.

is a little

(T)

of

THREAD

both

spreader

far

set eyelet should

looper

tensions

will

setting.

and

enough

lower

slack

(R)

be

(V)

TENSIONS

not

ADJUSTMENTS

check

-

lower

upper

left

looper

when

should

set

with

at

the

to

markedly

and/

or

See

"Setting

looper

past

time

give a normal

adjust

needle.

thread

spreader

be

about

its

eyelet

lower

effect

the

as

the

crossing.

or

spreader.

eyelet

horizontal.

looper

outlined

Needle".

(R,

reaches

approximately

appearing

purl.

See

Fig. its

is

at

below:

"Setting

that

1)

back

extreme

1 I 8

extreme

stitch.

the

upper

Setting 1 and 2 should appearance thread

to

bend

tension CAUTION:

its

extreme

Make

Assemble

by

means guide the

slightly stop support

differences amount removing the Fig.

(D)

right When

to

screw

bracket

Under

of

spring

15).

eyelet

in

looper

as

much

sure

the

of

screw

so

that

feed

slot

the

edge

the

right

(A,

normal

in

the

movement

lock

screw

and

pin,

Replace

that

skip

(R,

Fig. thread as

Looper

left

position,

SETTING

that

lock

hemming

(B.

the

left

in

the

guide

of

Fig.

16)

(E,

Fig.

conditions,

material

and

(B,

located

lock

is

definitely

1)

by pull-off

possible

thread

THE

screw

guide

Fig.

parallel.

15).

side

throat tip

is

located

15).

thickness.

the

Fig.

in

screw

be

made

lowering

(AF).

without

must. or

HEMMING

(A,

of

plate.

in

the

pressure

16)

the

and

as

stitch

Fig.

support

With

its

tip

this

This

towards

edge

and

hinge

tighten

quite

not a needle

before, will

bracket

the

is

position.

adjustment

guide

For

applied adjusting

carefully.

it

slightly

After

distorting

appear

GUIDE

15)

is

knurled

even

the

block

with

front

is

example,

and

securely.

loop and

this

stitch.

be

slightly

tight

SUPPORT

loose,

onto

the

adjusting

and

the

front

can

of

spring

to

the

edge

If

skip.

bringing

change,

slack

on

then

lower

parallel

or

be

the

hinge

loaded

as

in

edge

screw

guide

it

can

be

reposition

eyelet

increase

as

top

side.

BRACKET

proceed

knife

screw

to

leading

made

going

by

block

to

compensate

guide

which

support

over

tip

determined

lower

holes

looper

spreader

as

follows:

support

(C),

set

the

right

edge

positioning

and

edge

seams.

can

presses

bracket

looper

in

close

thread

reaches

bracket

the

side

should

guide

for

be

set

against

by

edge

of

be

the

The

by

(E,

14

SETTING

THE

lock against

HEMIVITNG

If

movement

screw

set

screw

GUIDE

(B.

and

of

Fig.

lock

SUPPORT

the

edge

16),

screw.

screw

guide

set

BRACKET

is

not

screw

Be

sure

is

tightened

required,

and

spring;

set

(Continued)

then

screw

against

is

set

remove replace

tightened

screw.

the

thickness

screw

the

hinge tween tighten and

adjust

so

that

the

center screw

Fig.

(C,

the

screws

the

(F)

15

of

Fig.

block

edge

stop

tip

of

the

and

the

material

16)

(E)

guide

(C)

screw

of

the

edge

tighten

Adjust adjusting folded point

re-tighten

Adjust

(F,

Fig. between edge

and

to

and

guide

holding

obtain

the

(D).

that

overhanging

guide

against

FINAL

the

screw

edge,

yet

the

15)

its

guiding

(D)

to

be

hemmed.

screw

the

proper

overhanging

Remove

is

in

front

guide

vertically.

stop

screw.

ADJUSTMENT

edge

guide

(C)

do

not

screw

so

show

(A,

(D,

that

overhanging so

that

the

edge

and

corresponds

Loosen

(D),

now

distance

guide.

lock

of

lock

is

screw

screw,

located

Replace

OF

Fig.

the

on

Fig.

guide

space

the

with

set

move

be-

Re-

(F)

at

lock

HEMMING

15)

stitches

the

face

15)

securely.

by

of

GUIDE

turning

are

located

the

fabric.

Fig.

the

16

knurled

in

the

At

this

15

16

,:l

~

I

,(..

~)~

.

~

?-

«

16

The

parts

represent

illustrated

the

parts

that

on

are

pages

used

16

on

and

Style

18,

39500

and

described

MC,

but

not

on

used

this

on

page

Style

and

39500

page 19

FA.

Those

to

Use

this

parts

Styles

Catalog

catalog.

39500

Reference

descriptions.

Ref.

No.

1

Part

No.

39592 39592

39592 2 3

4

5 6 7 8

9 10 11

12

39520 39530 22738 22768 39530 39597 22738 39530 39505 39540 B-8

39540 13 14 15 16 17

39560

39508

39505

39526

39526 18 19

20 21 22 23 24 25 26

27 28 29 30 31

39505

39563

39556 22798 39556

605

39501

22657 39501 22513 39532 39582 39582 39582

shown

FA

No.

103

numbers

indicate

AE-4 AE-4 AE-4 AX E

B F B

G

B-14

93 A

A

B

F AY AX H

J

M

L AS

D-12

K D

AR H J

in

phantom

and

FA

that

they

views

MC.

(Style

are

39500

inside a bracket

are

component

Looper Looper Needle

Thread

Presser

Presser Screw, Screw.

Hinge Stitch

Screw.

Chip

Chaining

Differential

Main

Screw,

Upper

Lower

Main

Feed

for

Spreader,

Looper----------------------------------

Feed Differential Differential

Chaining

Needle

Chain

Thread

Cutting

Screw,

Chain

Screw.

Cloth

for

Plate-------------------------------------

Screw.

Cloth Screw. Latch

Side

Cover-------------------------------------

Spring Rivet

and

FA)

bearing

for

parts

all

on

no

reference

parts

the

not

picture

illustrated

of a complete

number

plates

and

part

are

or

described

have

or

assembly.

common

indented

Description

Thread Thread

Foot---------

Spring

Tension Tension

Tension

Foot

for

chain

for

stitch

Tongue,

for

chip

Spring. Spring.

for for

503 505

Spring--------------------

-

-------------------------

Chain

Shield-------------------

shield----------------------

tongue

---------------------

------------------------------marked

guard

"DV"

-----------------

-----------------------

stitch-----stitch------

Guard---------------------------------

Feed

Dog,

Feed

Driving

main

Dog,

Feed Feed

Dog.

Cam

Knife

for

chain

Cutter

chain

for

cloth

Plate

for

Stud

latch

Spring

------------

marked

Driving

"S".

for

Eccentric---------------

Eccentric---------------------

feed

marked

dog

marked

Dog.

Dog,

marked Pull-off

------------------------

"E".

"F" for for

for

503

---------------------

503

stitch

505

stitch--------------

"U",

for

---------------------

----------------------------cutter

Blade

cutting

plate

--knife

blade

---

----------------

-----

-----------------------

---

---------------------------spring----------------------

-------------------------------

-

------------------------

503

stitch

stitch-------

-------------505

stitch----

---

-----

----

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 2

in

Amt.

Req

1 2 1 1 1 1 1

1 1

1

1 1 1

1 1 1 1 1 1 2

1

1 1 2

1 1

1

.

17

42

36

18

~

t!

37

38

THROAT

PLATES6 NEEDLE

LOWER

KNIFE

PARTS

GUARDS,

AND

THROAT

HEMMING

PLATE

GUIDE

SUPPORT

ASSEMBLY

BLOCK,

Ref.

No.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12 13 14 15

16 17 18 19

20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42

Part

No.

22559 39550 39550 39550

H

J K

v

AS22 D 39524 39524 39525 22585 39525

AX AY

E

G

D

90

39580

AG

88 B 22593 29481 L 39589 39589 22513 39503 22729 39589 39589

AH AG

c

L A AJ AB

73 c

HA73 B

39589

AF

222 D

22743

39589

AA

222 D 39589 39568

AL

J 79077 39589 22799 22873

39589

AD

B

c

AC

61303 D

303 39589 39589 39589 39580

AK-1 AKAK-1/2

E

3/4

Adjusting Knife

Spring

Lower

Screw---------------------------------

Pressure

Cover------------------------------------

Knife Screw6 for Throat Throat Needle

Screw, Needle

Plate, Plate,

Guard6 rear

for

Guard,

Screw6 for

Throat

Plate Screw6 for Screw6 for Hemming

Guide Holding Sleeve, Screw,

Edge

Guide Screw, Hemming Hinge

Set

Screw,

Stop

Screw 6 for Hemmer Screw, Screw 6 for Overhanging

Screw6 for

Pin6 for

Spring6 for

Stop

Screw6 for Edge

Guide

Hinge Adjusting Hemming Cup

Washer,

Screw,

Overhanging Overhanging

Overhanging Throat

Plate

Description

Holder

throat

marked marked

Equalizing

-----------------------------

plate

Spring

-------------------------"CD", "CE

for

11

for

6

-----------------------------

locking

side

cover

front-----------------------------

needle

Support

lower

hemming

Spring for

for for

Block

guard--------------------------

Block-----------------------

knife

Assembly

holder

guide

assembly

-----------------------

-------------------------

edge

----

hemming

Guide

guide

-----------------------

--------guide

Stop-------------------------

--------------------------------

for

No.

22729 A ------------------

overhanging

Guide

for

edge

End

Plate hemmer edge

Guide

guide

Hinge

overhanging

guide

edge

tension

guide

edge

tension

Block ---

guide-----------------

tension

guide-------------------

Support-----------------------

Screw,

for

overhanging

Screw 6 for

Attachment

for

screw

edge

guide

edge

Base-------------------

No.

support---------------Guide6 for 1 inch Guide6 for Guide6 for

Support

3/4 1/2

Block

inch inch

Shim------------------

-----------------

505

503

stitch

--------

--------------------

--------------

-------------------stop---------------

guide

hinge

block

-------------------end

plate

spring

-----------

----------

----

--------

------------

----------------

guide

303

hem

hinge

support

-------

--------------

--------------hem-----------hem--------------

-----

-

block

Amt. Req.

1

1 1

-1

1

2 1 1 1

1

--

1

- 1 1 1 1 1 1

- - 1 1 1

1 1

1 1 1 1 1

1 1

1 2 1 1 1 1

1 1

1

2

19

.,.o

..

'

0

WORLD'S

,_alE

FINEST

QUALITY

*

INDUSTRIAL

SEWING

MACHINES

UNION

SPECIAL

maintains sales

and facilities throughout the world. These offices aid

you

in

the selection of the right sewing equipment for your particular operation. Union Special representatives tory trained promptly tion,

there

and

is

a Union Special Representative to

serve you. Check with

ATLANTA, BOSTON, CHICAGO, DALLAS, TEXAS LOS ANGELES, CAL. NEW PHILADELPHIA,

GA.

MASS.

YORK,

ILL.

N.

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efficiently. Whatever your loca-

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MONTREAL, CANADA TORONTO,

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the

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ILL.

60610

Union Special 39500MC User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual