Union Special 39500GB, 39500GC-045 User Manual

®

INDUSTRIAL

SEWING

Fl

NEST 0 UAUTY

STYLES

39500GB 39500GC-

045

L

EWIS

\

--

\_

•

CO

L

UMB

I A

MACHINES

'--

0

CATALOG

No.

103GB

TWO

TOE

CLASS 3.9

HI-STYLED

NEEDLE

DIFFERENTIAL

CLOSING MACHINES

MACHINE

CHICAGO

500

~

HIGH

SPEED

FEED

COMPANY

(Supplement

Catalog

to

No.

Catalog

INSTRUCTIONS

FOR

103

GB

Noo

103

FA)

ADJUSTING

39500

GB

LIST

CLASS

First

AND

OF

Styles

Edition

OPERATING

PARTS

39500

GC-045

Copyright

1967

By

Union

Rights

Special

Reserved

Machine

in

All

MACHINE COMPANY

INDUSTRIAL

P r i n t e d

SEWING

CHICAGO

in

2

MACHINES

U.

S • A •

Coo

Countries

July,

1972

IDENTIFICATION

OF

MAACHINES

Each

the

machine.

numbers

Example:

only

minor

dard

Style

Styles

which

differs

39500".

This junction on

Style

opposite

therewith.

39500

the

description

reference tration. part

Reference

number

This

herein.

Class given of

handwheel

It

39500.

from

Union

Style

have

"Style

changes

number.

of

machines from

catalog

FA

illustration

and

numbers

listed

catalog

can

also

References

the

operator's

is

Special

machine

numbers

one

or

more

39500

are

GB".

made

Example:

similar

the

Style

APPLICATION

is a supplement

Only

are

those

illustrated

will

the

number

only,

and

numbers

in

the

second

applies

be

specifically

applied

to

position

away

from

operator.

is

identified

are

classified

letters

Special

in a standard

"Style

number

parts

39500

in

construction

in

to

Catalog

used

and

be

found a listing

of

pieces

merely

should

never

column.

with

discretion

directions,

while

as

suffixed,

Style

numbers machine,

GBZ".

that

it

OF

on

listed

required.

indicate

be

to

the

such seated

by a Style

standard

but

are

contains

CATALOG

No.

10 3

Styles

at

the

back

of

the

Numbers

the

position

used

in

standard

to

some

as

right,

at

the

number

and

never

contain

11

a

Z"

grouped

no

letters.

FA

and

39500

parts

of

GB

this

with

of

ordering

Styles

Special

left,

machine.

on a name

special.

contain

the

is

suffixed

Standard

the

letter

under a Class

Example:

should

and

be

GC-045,

catalog.

in

the

that

parts.

of

Styles

front,

their

part

first

part

Always

machines

of

back,

Operating

plate

letter

11

Z".

When

to

the

stan-

number

"Class

used

in but

On

the

numbers,

column

in

the

ill

use

as

listed

machines

etc.,

direction

on

Style

"Z".

con-

not

page

are us-

the

in

are

Hi-Styled Three with

39500

Thread

Spring

GB seamless approximately Cam R.

P.M.

39500

GC-045 hosiery imately main

CAUTION!

filled

before

straight

should

be

Machine

sight

gauge

lines

High

Pres

Light

nylon

adjusted

and 3/16

and

differential

beginning

mineral

used.

is

on

front

when

Speed.

Overseam.ing

sed

Lower

to

medium

hosiery.

1/8

and

main

Light

socks.

inch

and

to

medium Seam

from

feeds.

Oil

was

draiued

to

oil

of a Saybolt

filled

machine

with

of

machine.

is

STYLES

Two

Curved

Machines.

Knife,

duty

machine

Seam

5/32

inch

differential

duty

specification

left

needle.

Maximum

from

operate.

viscosity

oil

at

spring

Red

stationary.

OF

MACHINES

Blade

Automatic

Needles,

Differential

Lubricating

for

closing

Feed,

specification 5 21-SSa

from

machine

left

feeds.

521-SSa

Stitch

needle.

Maximum

for

closing

-1.

range

20-100

recommended

OILING

machine

Oil

capacity

cap

tip

of

in

oil

when

90

to

top

level

shipped,

of

Class

125

cover.

indicator

One

Looper,

Trimming

System.

the toe

-1.

Standard

Stitch

range

recommended

the

toe

Standard

per

speed

39 500

seconds

Oil

sections

20-100

sections

seam

inch. 7000

so

reservoir

is

at

100

level

should

One

Spreader,

Mechanism

of

women's

seam

per

speed

of

width

Cam

R.

P.

sia

ounces. Fahrenheit

is

checked

show

widths

inch.

7000

men's

approx-

adjusted

M.

must

be

between

A

at

main

Machine

reservoir

is

automatically

filled.

Check

lubricated.

oil

daily

No

before

3

oiling

the

morning

is

necessary,

start;

other

add

oil

than

as

required.

keeping

The

base. which ically.

oil

drain

It

is a magnetic

may

have

plug

entered

screw

screw the

crank

OILING

is

located

designed

case.

NEEDLES

(Continued)

at

back

to

accumulate

It

should

of

machine

be

removed

near

possible

foreign

and

bottom

materials

cleaned

edge period-

of

Each

notes

the number., in

thousandths

size

number

dles

packaged

Class

needle

for

cription

154

GCS

To sample on

label.

Selection should

pass

Union

kind

stamped

represent

39500

the

and

sizes

Slabbed standard plated

have

needle

needle.,

A

complete

freely

Special

of

shank., point., length., on

of

an

and

sold

machines

available

needle

the

inch.,

the

by

shank.,

needle

midway

complete

Union

use a curved

covered

of

round

length.,

and

is

available

or

of

orders

the

proper

through

type

·order

promptly

and

would

needle

has

both

type groove,

shank.,

denotes

between

symbol

Special.

in

this

the

recommended

Description

point,

double

groove.,

in

sizes and

size

number

read:

size

is

determined

eye

in

and

shank

which

blade

catalog

and

•

046 022,

accurately

should

11

1000

order

size

number.

finish

largest

needle.

is

and

is

given

Type

and

diameter

eye.

The

154

needle.

Sizes

inch

struck

025,

double

groove,

027., 029.,

filled,

be

forwarded.

Needles,

by

size

to

produce a good

The

other

details.

of

Collectively,

on

the

standard GCS.

slab.,

spotted.,

an

empty

Type

of

154

thread

type

number blade., label

of

recommended

Below

is

curved

chromium

032.

package,

Use

description

GCS.,

Size

used.

stitch

formation.

de-

The

size

measured

type

all

the

and

nee-

des-

blade.,

025".

Thread

a

Success

of

needles putation more

than

Release Fig. 1 or ting

direction socket about

wrench

1/4

needle.

To

replace

the

left,

in

this

position., tighten ing

39500

nut.

(AG).

GB

After through (L).,

through

of

thread

in

packaged

for

producing

three-

pressure

lA)

turn.

insert

Return

ONLY

thread

the

back

tension

eyelet.

the

quarters

and

swing

until

No.

Again

needles,

needles

turn

comes

hole

operation

under

our

highest

of a century.

on

presser

needles

21388

AU.,

turn

leave

in

holder

handwheel

presser

from

of

thread

post

slot

of

Union

brand

quality

CHANGING

foot

arm

are

at

their

furnished

handwheel

needle

until

arm

(U)

to

THREAD

cones

eyelet

(K)

of

Special

name.,

needles

NEEDLES

by

turning

(U)

out

lowest with

until

holder they

holder

position;

on

cone

(B),

tension

machines

~

in

of

position.

machine,

needles

at

high

rest

against

is

again

re-lock

STAND

support

then

continues

post

materials

presser point

of

are

position

at

(A.,

(G).,

and

Gan

be

.~

which

foot

Turn

travel.

loosen

at

high

stop

its

low

presser

Fig.

between

down

secured

is

backed

and

workmanship

release

handwheel

Using

needle

position.

and

with

pin.

point

Keeping

of

foot

1)

it

tension

through

only

by a re-

bushing

in

hexagonal

clamp

Withdraw

the

travel;

release

is

brought

disc

front

by

use

for

(AG.,

opera-

nut

flats

to

needles

then

bush-

up

felts

hole

4

THREAD

STAND

(Continued)

39500

GC-045

After through thread

eyeleto

Now ed

through Fig. 1 or The

right through and

third

All

slot

(K)

Only

lA)o

Parts

threading

It

will

quence

dle

of

third.

thread

the

back

..

on

all

the

lA)

needle

the

upper

through

threads

in

tension

parts

are

of

Style

simplify

threading

Complete

ONLY

comes

hole

styles

upper

from

thread hole

the

then

post

involved

placed

39500

of

the

holes

front

back

lower

continue

(G)

in

GB

the

threading

the

upper

the

from

thread

upper (left

to

backo

is

threaded

to

hole

and

in

threading

their

or

full

cones

on

eyelet

looper

and

middle

Then

front

..

back

between

on

through

THREADING

relative

refer

looper

of

to

these

first

threading

cone

(B),

thread

through

second

to

fronto

the

front

are

shown

positions

Figo

machines

..

of

support

then

and

down

the

respectively)

the

lower

the

tension

through

tension

discs

thread

in

threading

for

lA

for

threading

to

the

right

one

needle

before

(A.,

Fig"

through

left

needle

of

tension

holes

thread

the

middle

(J).,

guide

(M).

clarityo

follow

second

proceeding

lA)

it

the

thread

from

guide

hole

through

diagrams

Refer

of

Style

the

recommended

and

to

is

brought

front

is

hole

thread-

guide

back

to

(C)..

front

to

tension

(Fig" 1 and

to

Figo 1 for

39500

the

GC-045o

left

of

(C.,

fronto

first

back

post

se-

nee-

one.

Before

direction

turning

presser

tion.

Be

sure tween posts for

tension

should

the

different

Turn

through

of

upper

front

auxiliary

of

assembly thread the

using

and

tube

threading

hooked

then

CAUTION!

from

tube

beginning

until

needles

foot

the

discs

be

positioned

handwheel

looper

thread

looper

(AA)..

assembly

wire,

end

insert

Be

thread

sure

assembly

to

release

threads..

(J)

threads

until

looper

thread

lead

the

(AA).

supplied

of

tweezers.,

upper

to

thread,

{X)

are

as

and

in

so

as

indicated

TO point

thread

eyelet

pull-off

thread

through

looper

upper

swing

in

high

position.

bushing

they

(AG);

come tension_post the

tension

in

THREAD

of

upper

eyelet

(N)

(P)

from

(AF).

under

This

is

with

also

upper

easily

each

supplied

looper

thread

looper

TO

eyeo

THREAD

cloth

plate

and

from

slot

post

slot

Fig. 1 and

UPPER

looper

from

left

to

After

neck

pulling

of

accomplished

machineo

with

eye

is

under

NEEDLES

open

Release

swing

the

tension

(K)

in will

lAo

LOOPER (W)

is

back

to

righto

top

cover

Pull

each

from

the

..

turn

pressure

presser

thread

tension

be

at

all

the

front

NOTE:

up

upper

casting by

thread

machine.

front

needle

handwheel

on

arm

guide

post

(G).

the

approximate

way

left.

..

then

through

Thread

looper

and

using

the

out

to

back.

threads

in

operating

pr~~sser

(U)

out

(C) The

foot

of

posi-

are

tension

angle

Lead

thread

both

must

pass

thread

down

forked

bottom

Push

when

tube

through

end

of

down

passing

by

be-

eyes

in

tube

of

tube

..

Turn

position.

dle

thread

in

top

in

the

needle

handwheel

Insert

eyelet

cover

right

thread

both

needle

hole

eyeleto

in

(AD).,

thread

and

the

operating

needle

under

left

Thread

threads

neck

eyelet

needle

needles

direction

from

of

top

(AC).

thread

from

right

cover

The

5

until

to

casting right through

the

fronto

needles left.,

needle

the

(X)

through

and

then

thread

left

are

BOTH

down

hole

at

should

of

the

their

eyes

through

be

threaded

top

highest of

nee-

holes

cover

(;]Tension

Nut li]Tension (ITensi

IJTension [!]T

Fe

ension

I::Jspring OT

ension Di

[I

Tension

n Tens ion

f!]

Front

Nut

on

Sprin

g

rrul

~

e

~

/

tv

Spring~~..-~~._,,,

Post~

Shield ....

Post Disc Felt

Thr

-::--~

?;

scs·<

./

Slot.. --...

··.. ·.

ead Guide

~~~~

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~~Tension

IITension

[!]Tension

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Ferrule

~~Tension

IITension

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Sprin

g

~..-.!~~:i.l

Spring Post

Discs Post

Disc

..

_

Slott

·

'liiiii

··;;~~

Felt

·-

~-~~.,...

~~Auxiliary

~Upper

Fig

Loop

. 1

Lo

oper

er

Thread

Eyelet

£.t

Needle~

a Low

/

Upp

Thread

er

Looper

Tube

Ass

Spreader

embly

6

m

Tension

Nut

gTension

OTension

[!lTension ll)spring

n

Tension

(3

Tension

n

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[i

Tension

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Spring

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Post

Shield

Discs · ....

Post

Disc Felt · ..

Thread

Fer~

Slot :

Gu

de

Guide

'"

..--· ...

~m~

Presser

Release

Foot

Bushing

~Upper

m

Presser

Looper

Fig. lA

Arm

Thread

Eyelet

_.....,,..Needle

~::;.J-,Iof"\"

-

~Upper

Top

Upper

Thread

Looper

Cover

Thread

Looper

Tub e

Eyelet

A3sembly

7

The

tension

cure

proper

amount

nuts

(D, stitch

of

tension

Fig. 1 or

formation.

on

1A).

THREAD

the

needle

Tension

TENSION

and

looper

on

threads

should

be

is

regulated

only

by

sufficient

three

to se-

Sufficient presser should decrease nut screw

pressure

adjusting (A). locking

1 I 3 2

screw

be

maintained. amount

(

A~

Fig. 2)

has a right

~

screw

VVith

nut

inch

to

(B).

Feed

eccentrics

loosening

presser

(C)

Set

been selected chine,

It

eccentric 3954 of stitches 395 GC B- 30

eccentrics

will

0 B-

00

GB

machine

differe

be

noted

70. machine

is

ob

nti

1 I 16

cap

to

No.

Minor tain

will

al

foot

Should

of

pressure

and

turn

hand

thread,

decreases

(B) h

so

as been

foot

that

inch (D)

resting

its

from

against

used

produce

approximately

have been

on

the

39500

39540 B-100,

able

will

be

feed

numb

shipped

ers

when

be

shipped with

eccentric

PRESSER FOOT

pressure

it

be

on

adjusting

properly

under

the locking

to

necessary

presser

screw

so

pre

ssur

on

throat

surface

top

feed

tightening

e.

set, tight

surface

nut

FEED ECCENTRICS

in the

395

00

GB

80

selected

GB

while

of

using

machine

the

part

that

to

produce

that

symbol

eccentric. Unless

above

with

No.

39540 B-60

.

PRESSURE

work uniform

to increase

foot~

loosen lock

(B).

Adjusting

increases

VVhen

pressure

en

plate~

is

approximately

of

adjusting

(C).

machine

stitches

approximately

that

the

of

the

differential

indicate

combination

main

ly

or

lock

nut

position

have

per

inch. On

part

number

approximately

feed

the

35

feed

otherwise

of

eccentrics

eccentric

Fig.

39500

stitches

of

the

per

main

eccentric

the

specified, the

.

The

and No.

2

GC ma-

inch

feed

is No.

number

395 39540

.

00

ene

rally

G

of

stitches

gree

and

produced.

direction

Following

6,

7,

8,

9~ 10~

Only

two ordered indicate

Before

guard, chip

ow this

l

VVith center in h

igh

position,

ove the

b Style bo

ve

395

the

11, 12, 13,

eccentrics

separately

number

assembling guard,

suggested

throat

the

front

throat 00

GB

throat the throat plate, sening

clamp

scr

sp

eaking,

differential

Main (left

of

stretch

stitch number

14,

15, 16, 18, 20, 22 , 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 40, 50,

are

supplied

.

To

order, use

of

stitches

A

SSE

MBLING AND AD

and adj

upper

knife

sequenc

SETT

plate

the need

plate the need

pl ate.

move ew (B).

ING

assembled

end

of

le

points

(Fig. 3)

le points should

To

align need

needle

Remove

of

feed

desired.

e:

THE

needle

for

driving

(ri

ght

hand) feed

material

being

eccentrics

with

each mac

No. 3954

Exampl

JUSTING SEVVING

usting

sewing

assembly,

NEEDL

in

slot

should

Style

E

position, needles

. VVhen

be

39500

be

le

or

set

arm

throat

plate.

hand)

ecce

feed

ntric

sewn, or

are

available

hin

e.

0 B

with a minor

e: 1139540 B-1

par

ts,

lower

knife

needles

set 15132

GC-045. For

set

7116 i

the

height

(A,

Fig. 3)

eccentr

is

sel

type

i c

ected

of

under

Additional

11

00

•

PARTS

remove

holder

assembly.

should are

at

inch

a-

nch

a-

above

by loo-

determines

in

relation

operation

No.

3954

eccentrics

number

cloth

pl

ate,

Fig

number

.

0 B-

60,

70

may

s u

ffixed

Then,

. 3

to

~

fab

de-

4,

5

100. be

to

ric

fol

~

-

8

SETTING

At

bar

(C).

set the using spr

looper

eader deflec

Now

THE

this

point,

With

spreader

gauge

assembly

NEEDLE (Continued)

insert

lower

ting

spreader

point

No. 21225

the

differential (front)

1

18

lower

inch

spreader

at

from

G-

needles. Tighten

the

118

left

center

.

Do

feed

(A, F i

end

nut

dog

of

not

(B).

of

.

g.

its

left

have

4) str need

lower

into

oke

le,

,

Fig

between

F i

g.

. 4

the

6

rear

needle

SETTING

Set

rear

high

as

possible either lower deflect needle Screw guard. Make

guard

THE

Now, finish

As

spreader should until

surface another • 002

spreader guard (D)

ting,

guards

needles

Assemble

as

is

used

make

SET

lower

knife

(B) and

LOWER

be

set

SETTING

is

springing

close

to

sure

and

differential

TING THE

needle

spreader

holder, but

is

used

sure there

lower

moves

into

the

spring

front as

possible

adjust

there

THE guard

,

wi

tho

forward • 002

to set

spreader.

SPREADER

spreader

to

needle

forward

to • 004 inch

THE

needle needle

and

is

feed

UPP

ut

or

still

the

is

the

r i

scar

from

FRONT

guard

off

to

set

front

no

dog.

ER

LOOPER

REAR

interf

no

interference

NEED

(A,

Fig

ering

movement

in

position

to • 004

rear

interference

adjustment.

ght, its

fs

(A,

rear

.

NEEDLE

(C,

backguard,

need

les

needle

LE

GUARD

. 5)

as

with

of to

inch

.

nee

dle

poin

t

Fig

. 6)

guard

GUARD

Fig. 5). Whe

set

the

without

guard. Af

touchi

between

Fig. 5

front

ng.

ter

the

n

this

lower

needle

Screw

set

needle

-

Insert

its

holder

upp

er looper

Fig.

upper

and

permits

holder into

7

looper

(A,

Fig

. 7)

it

to

be

pushed

upper

the clamp holds the

pper

u

inch

beyond

When

u

pper

shank

Next,

its travel.

espect

r di

mensions; dis

loop

er throat in

ch

on

loop

er

the

looper holder

slightly

turn

Ch

to

needle

should

plate

Style

in

its

holder.

in

or

out,

er

s h

aft

upper

in

its

holder

upper back

eck

to

39500 GC-045

(Fig.

looper

sh

of

vertical

the handwheel

the dimensions

and

throat

t an

ce

from

be

approximately

point

of

9

Screw

or

turned

(if

not already looper

so

that

7). is

oul

d be

.

until

plate

centerline

looper

machine. (Fig. 8)

hold

the

at

the

set

of

the

5132

should

(B) hol

arou

nd

in

place

er

in the

shank

to position

looper

(Fig. 8)

extends

right

is

upper

of

left

inch

and

be

approximately

ds

upper

its

).

shaft. L

end

at

looper and needle

.

looper

shank

of

the

dis

. I

Screw

1 I

64

its

upp

er looper

left

point with

the

following

to

point

tance from

nsert

(C)

oca

to

1 I 3 2

stroke

end of

15

I 3 2

in

on

t e

,

of

SETTING

THE

UPPER

LOOPER

(Continued)

NOTE: looper but

the set plate by sents

so checked

ing

Feed veled by

pin the the

is

moving

the

Fig.

Assemble

that

surface

surfaces

with

rotating

(D).

back same

For

Style

point

with

ting

of

approximately

the

upper

dimensional

9

and

top

surfaces

by

sighting with a straight

should

the

throat

fe

ed

This

end

of

both

time.

395

00

respect

the

upper

looper

can looper per

of

align

tween

rub

and

end

and

set

of

across

plate

tilting

raises

feed

GB,

to

the

looper

7 I

16

inch.

setting

When

be

checked

is

eye

centers

the

upper

(Fig.

Check

upper

the

back

rotate

of

machine.

in

Figs.

SETTING

the

differential

the

feed

now

be

surfaces

adjusting

or lowers

bars

the

dimensional

center

If

holder

for

Style

the

moving

looper

9). setting

looper

of

a

short

8

surfaces

feed

-

edge.

le-

at

of

point

resetting

(A,

39500

correct

quickly

to

the

on

the

to

and

upper

distance

Reset

and

9.

THE

feed

the

with

Fig.

setting

as right, right

and

avoid

needles

looper,

to

FEED

dog

all

setting

left

respect

is

8).

GC-045.

follows:

right

counterclockwise,

maintain

(A,

lay

of

is

also

to

necessary,

Figure

is obtained,

wh

en

upper

needle,

needle

interference

on

needle

pull

looper

DOGS

Fig.

in

the

upper

5 I 3 2

inch,

the

throat

do

so

8

repre-

it

As

upper

loo-

the

eyes

should

be

down

out

of

dimensions

10)

and

same

plane.

Fig.

stroke.

its

looking

suggested above

main

If

holder

from

feed This

8

needles

slightly

left

dog

(B)

can

be

The

be

set

surface throat tilting

Now, they throat

Set with

top

Replace

with

cutting gonal upper

feeding

level

first plate. adjusting

set

rise

above

plate.

chaining

of

head

knife,

at

appears

Screw

feeding

throat

low

edge

screw

so

surfaces

the

(E)

in

3164

feed

plate

er

knife

flush

which

no

lateral

time

above

locks

place.

surfaces

inch

dog

(C)

when

holder

with

holds

should

feeding

the

feed

so

above

level feed

SETTING

assembly.

throat

lower

adjustment

dog

THE

plate

is

at

LOWER

surface.

knife.

is

10

top

of

Lower

necessary

Fig.

its

travel.

KNIFE

knife

Adjustments

knife

when

(A,

is

width

10

Fig.

spring

are

of

11)

should

made

pressed

trim

with

is

changed

be

set

hexa-

against

.

SETTING

THE

LOWER

KNIFE

(Continu

ed)

Fig.

holding

11

block

(H)

in

place.

Lower

ening

ket.

cloth nut knife

screw Because plate

(C)

holder.

Replace

(D),

Fig.

(F)

in

its

At

bottom should of

extend

lower against the edge.

After

trim,

This

screw

will

knife

(B)

latch

even

when

SETTING

upper

11) most

of

its

knife.

upper

(G)

simplify

may

and

screw

spring,

in

position, clockwise stroke,

not

less

The

knife

knife has

should

resetting

be

locking

(B)

screw

THE

knife

front

than 1/64

chain

and

be

secured

nut

also

serves

it

should

is

not

UPPER

assembly.

setting position

cutting

guard

slightly

been

tightened

when

in

any

(C)

against

as latch pin

always

tightened

KNIFE

Clamp

nut

against

edge

inch

(J)

should

back

set

for

to

upper

position

support

be

against

(E)

to

of

below

from

proper

lock

knife

by

tight brac-

for

locked with

lower

upper

hold

upper

cutting

be

the

set

cutting

knife

clamp

knife.

knife

edge

down

width

upper

is

knife

replaced

-

the

of

.

Length

feed

eccentrics actuates eccentric

In facing Tighten

of

stitch

used.

main

(B)

(rear)

actuates

assembling

each.

nut

Be

(C)

securely.

is

determined Outer feed

the

feed

careful

SETTING

(left) dog; while differential

eccentrics

not

to

THE

by

eccentric

damage

,

STITCH

the

combination

the

inner

(front)

be

sure

shaft

To

change

(A,

LENGTH

Fig.

(right)

feed

hubs

or

eccentrics, remove (C)

and from Turn operating

til

key

is

toward

(F),

supplied

trics be

necessary

slightly

washer

end

of

handwheel

direction

slot

in

front.

as

shown

during

shaft

eccentric

Using

with

and

to

extraction.

of

12)

dog.

are

key.

feed

nut (D)

(E).

in

un

hooked

machine,

withdraw

move

Fig.

eccentric

reach

eccentr

behind

ics.

handwheel back

12

extractor

eccen

It

and forth

-

may

13 (H).

Fig.

from

Then

shaft

continue

13

(E),

it

may

as

originally

be

addition

helpful

suggested.

If

to

remove

11

eccentrics

to

removing

nut

(G)

are

nut

and

unusually

(C)

and

feed

tight

washer

driving

fitting, in

(D)

(Fig.

connection

SETTING

THE

PRESSER

FOOT

Assemble

presser

(

front foot tant presser

shaft collar (G) a

arm

and

must

that

the

foot

(H,

Fig. 14).

screws

nd then

to the left

collar

and

screws and

The

foot

the

collar the presser presser

foot

Adjust

that

presser than nut inch

upper

(D).

free

the presser

me

nt

should

ed

with

nut

assemble

position.

the

into

back)

be

aligned with

bottom

can

(B,

shift

or

rig

lifter lever

(B)

arm

release

lifter

foot

looper

There

motion

foot

be

made

(F).

chip

guard,

presser

sewing

and

flat

position

on

front

of

the

be

realigned

To

move

Fig.

the

ht

clamp

secure

does

foot

as

required.

not

14)

screw.

the

bind

bushing

lever can

will

should

of

begins

with

be

permit:

be

foot

to

stop

lifter

rise.

screw

Re-assemble

turn

handwhe

foot

to

throat

edge

presser

with

the

shaft, loosen

and

clamp

lifter

arm

(A,

shaft.

and

is

screw

raised

then

from

lever

This adjust

(E)

the

presser

and

set

plate.

of

needle

foot

be

throat

screw

lever

shaft

Re-tighten

Fig. 14)

Be

sure

rise

when

unlocked.

(C)

no

higher

lock

1/ 16

to 1/8

before

and

lock

chip

el

guard,

until

arm. With needle

the

presser

The front

hole

flat

plate

slots

on

in

the

edge

throat

by

shifting

so

the

-

upper

fabric

knife

guard

assembly

foot

of

Fig.

in

high

to

needle

plate.

the

14

and

reaches

position,

align

hole

It

foot

cloth

needle

in

is

also

If

necessary,

lifter

plate.

its

swing

holes

presser

impor

lev

highest

-

er

To

Be

sure mac

(either let Op forms material,

FOR

remaining

(N,

era

While

39500

About

Fig

Figs.

te

machine

and

. 1

moves

and

sewing

GC-045 60% 40%

needle thread tacts

stitch

the FOR

needle

The

eye

is

obtained

complete

39500

GB

Usually,

stroke,

thr

eads tend With the the

thread

needles

needle

above

thread

conditions

hine

or

Fig. 1A).

1

or

1A)

slowly,

off the

sew

slowly.

on

of

needle

is drawn on

eyelet

thread let

.

is

adjusted

(AD

with

speed

all

range.

needle

should

to

pull

at

bottom

pull-

.

is

thr

With

about

without tongue freely.

NEEDLE

material,

thr

the

,

Fig.

correctly

the

least

thr

ead

be

just

down

of

off

slightly

stroke,

(AE)

STARTING

eaded

according

thr

ead

hori

zontal and

presser

THRE

check

ead

is

drawn upstroke 1A)

so

amount

is

drawn

tight

enough

if

position

draws the

TO

OPERATE

to

tensions

foot

Swing

AD

CONTROL

needle

thr

from

.

With

that

needle

in

its

front

of

needle

on

needle

to

excessive

needle

proper

diagram ligh

back

in

presser

ead

cones

needle

thread

to

thread

feed

thread

amount

t,

set

in

place,

control

on at

back

down

chain

for

your

upper

its

front

to

make

foot

into

as

follows:

needle

bottom

cam

pull-off (AE) just

position tension

stroke.

off

stitch

is

pulled

eyelet

of

(AD,

needle thread

style

looper

to

back

sure

position,

down

of

stroke,

when

At

tongue.

on the

Fig.

of

thread

location.

that

stroke.

the

sewing

top

of needle

up

1)

to

machine

eye

cha

in

insert

The

position

con-

desired

over

Needle

stroke.

so

that

satisfy

-

12

UPPER

LOOPER

THREAD CONTROL

During

or

Fig.. 1A)

of

looper

as

looper

FOR looper

let break

FOR

per

39500

If

upper thread

is

raised

excessively--even

39500

If

upper

thread

forward,

amount

of

CAUTION! carrying

If

the butted seam

FOR

appearance.

results

39500

Raising causes stroke raised ing

to the

less

and

in

looper

insure

purl

and

is

needle

will

draw

thread

GC-045

looper

eyelet too

GB

looper

eyelet

the

looper

Do

not

high

tensions.

POSITIONING

purl

is

when

GC-045

and

thread

causes

brought

thread

a

flexible

desired.

down

upper

is

drawn~

pull-

off

thread

(N~

high

and

thread

(N~

Fig.

thread

try

to

at

the

If,

however,

opened.

bringing

to

be

the

purl

too

far

breakage.

chain,

stroke~

reaches

forward

looper

upper

thread looper its

has a loose

Fig.

1A)

forward

moved

too

with a minimum

has

loose

1)

forward

will

tend

tension

applied.

obtain a tight

top

THE

edge

PURL

of

the

upper

pulled

from

to

form

forward,

however.,

With a reasonable

the

looper

stroke

through

thread

most

rearward

appearance

and

far

forward~

amount

appearance

slightly.

to

break

looper

TO

OBTAIN A FLAT

garment.,

purl

is

looper

the

cones

more

on

thread

of

looper

the

will

raise

of

in

the

If,

excessively-

thread

the

under

the

thread as

the

top

the

thread

amount

eyelet

thread

tension..

have

almost

position.

in

the

slightly.

the

looper

seam~

however.,

...

appearance

seam

can

edge~

eyelet

looper

of

the

becomes

of

should

pull-off

When

all

seam~

If~

move

however,

thread

tension

move

the

eyelet

even

with a minimum

SEAM

be

opened

a

less

(N~

Fig.

travels

edge.

too

looper

be

adjusted

(AF~

normal

slack

will

the

on

the

flat

1A)

to

the

If

the

tight,

thread

Fig.

amount

taken

the

upper

eye-

tend

up

to

applied.

upper

is

too

seam

loo-

far

by

into a near and

tighter

forward

top

of

its

eyelet

is

result-

tension

to

position

1

FOR

39500

Moving pulled purl

ever, off sure

from

to

the

uniformity,

desired.

FOR

39500

The terial

being

possible

seam

FOR

and

39500

The

insure

uniformity

tension

coming chine.

tained

machine.

form

threads

throat

needle without

low

needle

disc slack All

by

varying

GB

the

needle

the

cones

more

on

become

plate

tongue.

the

THREAD

GC-045

thread

sewn.

In

causing

enough

GB

threads

of

stitch.

felt

(L,

between

controlling

the

thread

as

the

top

needle

TENSIONS

tension

general.,

the

to

prevent

and

Fig.

1)

these

tension

tensions

needles

of

slack

eyelet

the

at

travel

edge.

the

(AD,

top

With a reasonable

thread

eyelet

should

WITH

required

upper

needle

looper

NOTE:

should

tension

settings

Tension

only

at

is a function

looper

threads

thread

be

pads

and

to

the

tension

Fig.

to

the

If

the

eyelet

of

the minimum

be

RESPECT

thread

to

be

breakage.

tensions

applied

enough

the

insure

discs,

1)

back

top

of

their

is

moved

stroke

and

needle

adjusted

TO

of

needle

tension

pulled

too

should

to

the

threads

to

prevent

tension

discs

uniformity

which

causes

stroke

back

the

thread

to

position

STITCH

thread

should

far

over

be

set

the

mounted

of

stitch

are

less

chain

thread

and

too

will

causes

far,

tension

the

and

be

set

as

the

top

at a minimum

at

the

thread

threads

from

on

should

mounted

not

to

purl

the

high

of

the

be

on

to

be

the

how-

feed

in-

as

rna-

as

the

to

stand

be-

ma-

ob-

the

13

14

The

Styles

parts

39500

illustrated

GB

and

on

39500

the

preceding

GC-045,

but

page

not

and

used

described

on

Style

on

39500

this

FA.

page

represent

the

parts

used

on

Parts 39500

Use

shown

GB

Catalog

Reference indicate

Ref.

No.

1 2 3 4 5

6

7 8

9

10

11

12 13 14 15

16 17 18 19

20 21 22 23

24 25

26 27

28 29

30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38

39 40

41 42 43

44 45 46

in

and

39500

No.

numbers

they

are

39552 22596

50-774

154 39563 39563 39592 39592 39592 39592

39520 39520 39530 22738 39597 22768 39530 22738 39530

39530 s

39556 39505 39526 39505

22797 A 39505 39526 39524 39524 39524 39528 39525 39525

29477

51-228 39516-625 39516-626 39516-627

30-92

C067

40-46

258 39541 A 29477 22587 M 22596 39540 39540 39540 39540 22569 D 39563 39563 39501 39501 D 39578 39578 39563 R 39563 39560

phantom

GC-045.

103

FA

that

components

Part

No.

G E

Blk

GCS

p

G AE-1 AE-1 AE-2 E AB AC

p

AB B G

R J

E AC AC

AB AB AB-1/8 AB-5/32 AC AC J H KJ

Blk

E

JN

G B-100 B-60 B-70 B-30

N H DD

TB

u

X B

views

for

are

and

all

parts

inside a bracket

of a complete

Needle

Needle Needle

Needle Needle Looper Looper Pad, Presser Presser

PresserArm-----------------------------------------------

Chaining

Differential

Main

39500 Screw, Main Differential Throat

Throat Throat Throat Needle Needle Crankshaft

Main Main Differential Differential Screw, Needle Needle Cloth Cloth Chip Chip

Top Top Lower

bearing

not

no

reference

illustrated

or

box

part

or

described

on

the

picture

assembly.

numbers

here.

plate

are

common

and

Description

Driving Screw, Stop

Arm-----------------------------------------

for

Pin,

needle

for

needle

driving

arm

------------------------------------

--------- ----

----------------------------------------------------

Thread Thread Tension

Tension

for

Chip

Screw,

Stitch Screw, Hinge Screw, Chain Chain

Feed

tension Foot, Foot,

Pull-off, Cam

Spring,

Spring, Spring,

post for for

Pull-off,

mounting Style Style

for

for for

39500 39500

Style

for

Styles

Style Style

bracket GB GC-045

39500

Style 39500

39500

GB--------------------

39500

GB,

GB

--------------------

GC-045

-----------------------

----------------------------

------------------------

Guard---------------------------------------------

for

chip

guard

-----------------------------------

Tongue,

for

stitch

marked 11EK

tongue

11

and

-

----------------------------

hinge

spring------------------

Spring-------------------------------------------

for

chain Shield, Shield,

Feed

Dog,

shield----------------------------------

for

presser

for

presser

20

teeth

Dog,

22

marked 11AM

per

teeth

foot foot

11

, 22

inch,

per

No. No.

inch,

teeth

39520 39520

for

Style

for

per

GC-045--------------------------------------------for

chaining

Feed

Dog,

Feed Plate, Plate, Plate, Plate,

Guard, Guard,

and

Vent

Plug---------------------------------------------Needle Needle Needle

\Vood Cork

Bearing, Bearing, Bearing,

Plug---------------------------------------------

feed

dog,

for

Style

marked 11AG

Dog,

rubber,

11

,

marked 11AX-1/8 marked 11AX-5/32, marked 11AV marked 11AY

11

,

for

11

,

for

rubber,

for

11

,

Style for for

Style Style

39500

for

Style Style

39500

Style

39500

39500 39500

rear----------------------------------------front-----------------------------------------

Needle

Driving

.0625 .0626 .0627

Arm

Crank

inch

diameter---------------------

inch

diameter---------------------

inch

diameter---------------------

Assembly-----------

\Vasher-----------------------------------------------Nut---------------------------------------------------

Feed

Needle

Screw,

Screw, Feed Feed

for Thread Thread

Plate,

Plate, Guard, Guard,

Cover Cover

Spreader,

Driving

Driving Driving

needle

Needle Needle

Driving

for for

Feed Feed

Eyelet, Eyelet,

for

Style

for

Style

for

Style

for

Style

Eccentric

Arm

needle

needle Eccentric, Eccentric,

Driving Driving

thread

for

for 39500 39500 39500 39500

Thread Thread

for

Styles

Key

Crank

and driving driving

for

for Eccentric, Eccentric,

-------

Style Style

----------------------

Connecting

arm

connecting

arm

crank----------------39500 39500

for

Style

for

Style

eyelet------------------------------

Style

39500

Style

GB---------------------

39500

GC-045-----GB-----------------------------GC

-----------------------------GB-----------------------------GC

------------------------------

Eyelet, Eyelet,

39500

for for GB,

Style Style

GC-045

39500 39500

to

Styles

have

indented

----

---

GC-045 GC-045

-----------

----------------

AC--------------AB---------------

39500

Style

inch,

GC-045

39500

for

Style

GC-045-----------

39500

GB

GB------

------------GB-1/8 GB-5/32

GC-045 GC-060

Rod

Assembly---

rod

-----------

---------

GB-------------GC

--------------

39500

GB--------

39500

GC

--------

-----------

GC-045------GB-----------

----------------

39500

descriptions,

-----

--

---

GC-045-

-------

------

FA,

Amt. Req.

1 1 1 2

1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1

1 1 1 1

1 1 1 1 1 1 1

1 1 1 1 1

1 1 1 1 1 1

1 28 28 28

1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

15

16

THREAD

STAND

AND

MISCELLANEOUS

TOOLS

Ref.

No.

9

10 11 12 13

14 15 16 17 18

19 20

*21

t

1

2

3

4 5

6

7

8

Part

No.

21113

21104

69 s

21130 22650 22650 21104

652 J-24 652

WA9A

651

SC333

39592

660-264 116

39599

660-240

21388 21227

421

21202

28604

39595

F

v

W-3

CB-4 CE-6 AA

J-16 A-16

A

w

A AU BF

D-34

R

Description

For

Style

Thread

For

Styles

Pad, Spool

Cone

Thread Washer------------------------------------Washer-------------------------------------

Lock

Nut Wood

Tension

"S"

Wrench~

Threading Thread Socket

Cam

Treadle Screwdriver,

Container Isolators,

for

Support-------------------------------Screw, Screw,

Washer

----------------------------------------

tableboard---------------------------------

Hook

eccentrics---------------------------------

Extractor

overall------------------------------------

39500

Stand

39500

thread

Pin--------------------------------

Stand

Screw,

Post

for

~

for

Wire

Tweezers

Wrench,

Chain~

of

rubber----------------------------

GC-045

Eyelet

GB

and

cone

for

thread

for

thread

Rod

-----

-------------------------------round

Bracket,

treadle

9/3 2 inch

------

----------------------------

for

---for

presser

3/16

Oil~

inch

16

Only

and

Support

GC-045

-------------------------

stand stand

-------

head

for

chain-------------------

nuts

--

3/8

-----

ounces,

eyelet-----------rod

#9 x 5/8

mounting

---

--------

inch

nuts

---

foot

diameter,

Spec.

Rod----------....

--------------

- -

----

---

-------

inch

long-----

on

--------

------

holding

---lifter

9

---

------feed

---

--------

---------

3/8

inches

83----------

--

....

---

--

Amt.

Req.

3

3 3 1

3 1 1 1 1 1

1 2

1 2 1

1 1

1 1 1

1 1

4

t

22 23 24 25

26 27 28 29

21113 G 22565

39592 39592

51292

Not Not

c

D

109

E

107 108

furnished

shown

F-1

on

For

Style

Thread

Screw,

TensionPost-------------------------------Tension Tension Tension Tension Tension

with

picture

machine.

plate

Stand

Disc Spring Spring

Post

..

39500

for

GB

Only

Eyelet

(inverted)-----------------------

Pad,

-----------------------------Ferrule Nut

and

Support

tension

...

post

felt

---------------------

------------------------

---------------------------

17

Rod

----------

------------------

3 1 3

6 6 3 3 3

Helpful,

ci

ent

types

machine

Promotion

Sales esting, ill obligation

authoritat

sewed

ustrated bulletins that

are

of

equ

artic

Department.

the foll

ive

information

ipm

ent for

le is available

owing:

on

mak

ing virtually

from

Among

Union

the

are available

the

most

Special's

many

without

effi-

any

inter-

HERE

ARE

HELPFUL

No. 240, No. No. N

o.

No .

N

o. No. No. No. 259, No. No.

No. No. No. No. No. No. No.

No. No. No. No. No. 730, "MCS Automatic Dual

No. No.

No.

"Columbia ing

N

o. 1500, "Alterat

"Men's,

249,

"Rainwear"

250,

"Men's

251,

" Service 252, "Me 253, "Overalls, 254, "Men's K 256, "Knit

"Men's 260,

"Work 262

, "

Bags"

263,

"Men's Cloth 264,

"Men's 265,

"Women's 266, "Women

26

7,

"Corsets,

268,

" Ch

269,

"Mattresses,

Upholstery" 271, "Awnings, Canopies, 273, "Curtains & Drapes" 610, "Kiipp-it" 710,

"MCS

Hemmer" 740, "MCS 750,

"Fusing Pre

1100, "Lewis

sti

110

5,

"Button

Machine

Wome

Dress

Shirts

n's

Shorts

nit

Outerwear"

Sports

Gloves "

Cot

ton,

Bur

Women's,

's Wear

Girdles, Br

ild

ren

's Wear"

ForMat

Automat

Blindstitch,

tch,

Machines"

Sewers-Ti

Blindstitch,

s"

ion

n's, Children's

Shirts"

and Pants"

and Pajama

Coveralls,

Underwear

Shirts"

lap,

Jut

ing"

Wear"

And

Slip

Covers,

ion

ic

sses

"

Saddle

Dep

artment

Children's Jackets"

Unit"

Rib-Knit

Footwear"

s"

and

Dungarees"

"

e, a

nd Multiwall

High

Fashion"

assieres"

Furniture

T~nt

s,

Tarp

Underfront

Cuff

Chains

titch,

cket Tackers"

Stitch,

and

Machines

Paper

s"

Shir

Machine

Lock·

Tie

Clos-

"

BULLETINS

TO

HELP

SEWING

t

"

and

YOU

CATALOGS

SOLVE

PROBLEMS

®

BOOST

PRODUCTION WITH WORK UNION

THESE

AIDS

SPECIAL

FROM

PNEUMATIC

conventional scissor-action mechanism

positive

AIR

FAB

signed

remove

to knit

materials

ar

ea.

Style

CHAIN-CUTTER

Class 39500 and 39600 is a

cui.

Style

2899 A-1

RIC

Cla

ss 39500

cur

ls

as

2899 B-1

UNCURLE

from top and

machines,

fabric passes thr

for

that

R-This

bottom

-fo

r use on

makes a

u

..___

unit,

uses air

plies

ough

durab

\ '

sewi

clean

~·

de-

jets

ol

flat

le

ng

PNEUMATIC

operated machines simply

CHAIN

small

for

36200 Flat

foot

allows

by kne

CUTTER

pneumatic

installation

seamers.

FOOT

lifter

the

e-touchi

-

cha

as an

Style

for

use

operato r

ng

an

The

above

in

cutter

accessory

2899A-6

LIFTER

on

to

actuating

photo that

.-

:

~

- The a

Class

raise

shows

is

unit

on

ir-

39500

t

he

foot

switch.

the

available

Class

KNIFE

GRINDER

type knives, nates defective

is

simple

sharpens

and easy

garments

straight

to

caused

opera

by

dull

or

te,

®

u

FIHEST

OUALITY

M A

cHINE

wheel insuring

ELECTRON

to

move

be

tter

IC NEE

DLE

the

needle

control, uniform quality and incre ased

up

or

d

POSJTJONERS

own

...

AMCO

angle

elimi-

knives.

th is all

HEAT

unit (arrow) oil

temperature

quires it.

elimi

nate

ows the

production.

DISPELLER

is

Style

the

necessity

operator

- Union

an

effective means f

where

heavy duty service

2899 E

-1

of

keep

reaching

both

to

Special's

hands

or

f

or

on

auxiliary

reducing

the

hand·

the

work,

re·

WORLD'S

FINEST

QUALITY

*

~'

I~

INDUSTRIAL

SEWING

MACHINES

UNION SPECIAL facilities aid

throughout

you in equipment Special tory promptly tion, serve

ATLANTA, GA. BOSTON, MASS. CHICAGO, DALLAS, LOS

ANGELES, NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA,

representatives

trained

and

there

you

.

ILL.

TEXAS

N.

maintains

the

selection

for

your

and

are

efficiently.

is

a Union

C~eck

with him

CAL.

Y.

PA.

sales

and

the

world. These offices will

of

the

right

particular

and

able

Special

operation.

service men

to

serve

Whatever

Representative

your

today.

MONTREAL, TORONTO, CANADA

BRUSSELS, LEICESTER, LONDON, ENGLAND PARIS, STUTTGART,

FRANCE

service

sewing

Union

are

fac-

needs

loca-

to

CANADA

BELGIUM

ENGLAND

GERMANY

400

Representatives

MACHINE

N.

FRANKLIN

industrial cit

and

ies

ST.,

distributors

throughout

COMPANY

CHICAGO,

in

the

all

important

world

.

ILL.

60610

'

Union Special 39500GB, 39500GC-045 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual