Union Special 39500FS, 39500FT, 39500FU, 39500GD, 39500GL User Manual
...
®
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
FINE
ST
39
39
395
39S
395
395
ST
QUALITY
YLES
500FS
500FT
00FU
00G
00GL
00GT
D
LEWIS•
COLUMBIA
MACHINES
395
00J
P
395
00MM
CATALOG
No.
103FS
SECOND
EDITION
CLASS
HI-STYLED
HIGH
SPEED
WITH
INTERMITTENT
DIFFERENTIAL
39500
OVERSEAMERS
FEED
CHICAGO
Here
are
Oil
for
Sewing
roleum
mended
machine
ro
leum
whit
1.
For
mount.
roleum
high
mitter
3. Where
used.
UNION
SPECIFICATION
Viscosity S.S.U.
Flash
Pour
Color
Neutralization
Viscosity
(D
Compounding
Copper
*
An
line No. 1 75-225 1 75-225 1 75-
*Used with
Specifications
Union
Special
Machines
Specification
oil,
viscosity
for
all
s.
Specification 175 specifies a high
oil, viscosity
e or wi
th a maximum
use
where freedom from
Specification 87 specifies a high
oil,
viscosi
Specification
quality
grease
s.
It
is
similar
No.
3 grease
SPECIAL
(Min.)
(Max .)
A.S.T.M.
Index
& D
Min
.) 85
Corrosion
Buna N
174
spec
100
oiling
ty
sec
applications
100
seconds at
A.S.T.M . co
300
seconds at
100
specifies a general purpose
for
use
to
in ball bearings and transcommercial
is
not
obtainable,
NO . 174 175
at
100°F
(Max.)
No. (Max.) 0.
(Max
Rubber "O"
90-125 90-
.)
ifie s a high q
ond
s at
100°
on hig h speed
oil
staining is para-
100°F.
N.L.G
350
20 20
10
None
lA
Retainers
350
3
0.
None
100°F
lor
.I.
No. 2 may
125
10
85 85
lA
ualit
y pet-
F. Recom -
quality
quality
pet
., water
number
pet
, grease No.
87
300-350
350
20
1 3
0.10
None
lA
-
of
·
be
225
NOTE
meeting above classification
essential. These
These additives
and
separate.
NOTE
shall
1: The
1.
Oxidation
2.
Rust
3.
Lubricity
4.
Anti-oxidant
Film
5.
not
removable
2:
Oil
not
be
1.
Extreme
2. Tackiness
3. Lead soap
4. Detergents
f!
NUT
OUAUTY
use
of
non-
corrosive additives
may
include
inhibitors
inhibitors
additives
s
strength
s c
used
additives
must
be
completely soluble in
by
wick
onta
ining the
at any
time
pressure additives- corrosi
or
adhesive additives
additives
CORPORATION
is
:
feeding
following
:
desirable
nor
type
in
but
the
shall
additive
ve
®
oil
not
oil
they
..
s
s
Catalog
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR
No.
103
FS
ADJUSTING
39500
39500
39500
39500
FS
FT
LIST
FU
GD
Second
Class
AND
OF
39500
Styles
OPERATING
PARTS
39500
39500
Edition
39500
39500
GL
GT
JP
MM
October,
197
3
Union
Rights
Copyright
By
Special
Reserved
1967
Corporation
in
All
CORPORATION
INDUSTRIAL
Printed
SEWING
CHICAGO
in
3
MACHINES
U.S.
Countries
A.
IDENTIFICATION
OF
MACHINES
Each
the
machine.
numbers
ample:
minor
Style
"Style
changes
number.
Styles
which
differs
39500".
This
herein.
Class
given
of
handwheel
It
39500.
from
Hi-Style
Four
Thread
Mechanism
39500
FS
and
intermittently
dresses.
press
separate
length.
mm).
Maximum
Union
Style
have
one
39500
are
Example:
of
machines
from
catalog
can
also
References
the
operator's
is
away
High
Speed,
Overseaming
with
Single
aprons.
controlled
top
Seam
Stitch
recommended
Special
numbers
or
more
FS".
made
similar
the
Style
applies
be
applied
from
One
Spring
needle
Pressed
three
gathering
lingerie.
tandem
and
bottom
specification
range
8-20
machine
are
is
classified
letters
Special
Style
in a standard
"Style
39500
in
number
APPLICATION
specifically
with
to
directions,
position
operator.
STYLES
or
Two
Machine.
Lower
thread.
or
smocks.
intermittent
plies.
504-SSa-1.
per
inch.
speed
identified
as
suffixed.
numbers
machine.
FSZ".
construction
in
that
it
OF
to
the
discretion
such
while
Curved
seated
OF
MACHINES
Blade
Intermittent
Knife.
medium
shirring
nightgowns
differential
Gathering
Standard
Cam
6000
R.P.M.
by a Style
standard
but
never
contain
a
"Z
are
grouped
contains
CA
TA
LOG
standard
to
some
as
right.
at
the
Needles.
Differential
Automatic
to
heavy
on
woven
ratio
up
adjusted
number
and
contain
the
II
is
suffixed
on a name
special.
the
letter
Standard
letter
"Z".
to
under a Class
no
letters.
Styles
Special
left,
front,
machine.
Two
Example:
of
machines
Styles
Operating
Looper.
of
back.
Feed.
Lubricating
duty
and
knit
and
similar
feed.
Slotted
machine.
System.
materials
garments.
presser
to 3 to 1 depending
width
main
of
and
seam
1/8
differential
plate
"Z".
When
the
standard
number
"Class
as
listed
machines
etc
••
direction
Three
Trimming
for
seaming
such
foot
on
stitch
inch
(3.17
feeds.
on
Style
Ex-
only
in
are
or
as
Knee
to
39500
FT
and
dresses.
press
pressure
on
inch
feeds.
39500
FU
and
dresses,
press
grooved
shirring.
fi
cation
8-2 0
ed
39500
GD
intermittently
ses.
controlled
su
re
stitch
needle
and
Single
needle
intermittently
aprons.
controlled _tandem
stitch
(4.
plate
length
76
att
';-
mm).
Maximum
Single
needle
intermittently
aprons.
controlled
for
1 / 8
Gathering
504-SSa-1.
per
speed
Two
inch.
5500
Cam
R.P.M.
needle
gathering
aprons.
lingerie.
tandem
plate
attachment
length.
17
/ 64
Seam
inch
differential
three
gathering
lingerie.
intermittent
a c
lmient for
Seam
Stitch
specificatT<5il"
range
recommended
three
gathering
lingerie.
tandem
inch
cord.
ratio
Standard
adjusted
four
thread.
or
smocks.
intermittent
for shirring.
specification
(6.
75
mm).
feeds.
Maximum
thread,
or
smocks.
medium
shirring
shirring
nightgowns
--.?
ifferential
.!
504-SSa-1.
8-20
thread.
or
smocks.
intermittent
Independent
up
to 5 to 1 depending
main
shirring
per
speed
medium
shirring
width
and
medium
inch.
6000
nightgowns
differential
swing-out
of seam
differential
to
on
woven
nightgowns
differential
Gath
512-SSa-1.
Stitch
range
recommended
to
heavy
on
woven
Gathering
Cam
R.P.M.
to
heavy
on
woven
3/16
heavy
duty
and
and
similar
feed.
er ing r
atio
Standard
8-20
speed
duty
and
and
feed.
ratio
machine.
knit
similar
Independent
up
Standard
adjusted
duty
and
and
feed.
main
machine.
knit
similar
Presser
pressure
on
stitch
inch
feeds.
length.
(4.
76
Maximum
machine.
knit
materials
garments.
Independent
up
to 3 to
width
per
inch.
6000
for
seaming
materials
garments.
such
Knee
swing-out
to 3 to 1 depending
width
materials
plate
mm).
of
seam
and
differential
for
seaming
garments.
foot
attachment
Seam
Stitch
3/16
such
Knee
bottom
for
speci-
range
recommend-
for
swing-out
1 de
of
seam
Cam
seaming
such
as
Knee
pending
from
adjusted
and
dres
press
pres
left
main
R.P.M.
as
as
-
-
on
4
STYLES
OF
MACHINES
(Continued)
39500
39500
39500
GL
intermittently
ses.
controlled
sure
stitch
needle
and
GT
and
and
press
curler
shirring.
fication
Stitch
mum
JP
adjusted
weights
long
versed
width
inch.
6000
Two
needle
gathering
aprons,
plate
length.
17 / 64
differential
Single
intermittently
silk
fabrics
controlled
stitch
range
recommended
Single
of
straight
or
of
Cam
R.P.M.
lingerie,
tandem
attachment
Seam
inch
needle
tongue.
Gathering
504-EFe-1
10-20
needle
intermittent
flat,
seams
forward
seams
adjusted
four
intermittent
specification
(6.
7 5
feeds.
three
gathering
where
tandem
ratio
inverted.
per
speed
three
differential
warp
3/32
and
are
differential
and
main
thread,
or
smocks,
for
mm).
Maximum
a 3 / 32
intermittent
Independent
inch.
thread.
ribbed
necessary.
1/8
and
medium
shirring
differential
shirring.
Stitch
thread.
or
inch
up
to 3 to 1 depending
Standard
Cam
6000
R.P.M.
feeding.
inch
differential
to
heavy
on
woven
nightgowns
Gathering
512-SSa-1.
range
recommended
medium
shirring
(2. 38
swing-out
adjusted
light
feed
knit
(2.38
on
mm)
differential
width
to
medium
for
cotton,
Thumbscrew
Seam
and
feeds.
duty
and
and
similar
feed.
8-2 0 per
to
all
main
seaming
wool,
Independent
ratio
Standard
speed
heavy
types
turned
feed.
pressure
on
of
and
specification
3.17
Maximum
machine,
knit
materials
up
width
inch.
5500
duty
of
down
Presser
stitch
seam
differential
duty
machine,
and
trimming
rayon
feed
which
mm).
for
seaming
such
garments.
swing-out
to 5 to 1 depending
of
seam
Cam
R.P.M.
machine,
cotton,
hem
plate
length.
3/32
and
504-SSa-1.
Stitch
recommended
adjusted
dacron,
is
desired.
foot
attachment
inch
with
silk
fabrics
allows
range
as
dres
Knee
for
has a short
Seam
(2.
feeds.
all
press
pres
from
seaming
rayon
speci-
38
Maxi-
operator
types
where
either
Standard
8-30
speed
and
-
-
on
left
main
Knee
for
mm).
and
re-
per
39500
fiiled
straight
should
gauge
lines
main
It
have
MM
and
dresses,
press
pressure
on
stitch
inch
feeds.
CAUTION!
before
mineral
be
Machine
on
front
when
Machine
reservoir
The
oil
is a magnetic
entered
Single
intermittent
controlled
(4.
76
Maximum
used.
is
machine
is
drain
the
needle
gathering
aprons,
tandem
plate gtachment fo
length. Seam
mm).
beginning
filled
of
automatically
filled.
screw
Stitch
recommended
Oil
was
oil
of a Saybolt
with
machine.
is
Check
plug
screw
designed
crank
three
lingerie,
drained
to
stationary.
case.
thread,
(in
specification
range
operate.
oil
at
Red
lubricated.
oil
is
It
medium
or
shirring
smocks.
termittent differential
.~ ..
shi!.rin
8-20
speed
from
Oil
viscosity
spring
bulb
on
daily
located
to
accumulate
should
nightgowns
)~
SU
per
inch.
5500
OILING
machine
capacity
cap
in
oil
level
No
before
at
back
be
removed
to
on
woven
Gathering
4-SSa-1.
Cam
R.P.M.
when
of
90
to
top
cover.
indicator
oiling
the
morning
of
machine
possible
of
heavy
and
feed.
Standard
adjusted
shipped.
Class
125
is
necessary,
foreign
and
cleaned
duty
machine,
and
knit
similar
Independent
ratio
seconds
Oillevel
up
39500
should
start;
near
for
materials
garments.
t?
5
to 1 depending
width
main
so
reservoir
at
is
show
other
add
bottom
materials
periodically.
of
and
is
sw
100
checked
between
than
oil
as
edge
seaming
such
swing-out
seam
differential
must
ounces.
Fahrenheit
at
keeping
required.
of
which
as
Knee
3/16
be
sight
gauge
base.
may
A
5
NEEDLES
Each
notes
the
number,
in
thousandths
size
number
dles
packaged
Class
needle
for
standard
description
Type
154
154
sample
on
No.
GAS
GBS
To
label.
have
needle,
Union
kind
of
stamped
represent
and
39500
Styles
needle
and
Round
groove,
in
Round
groove,
in
needle
A
complete
Special
shank,
on
the
of
an
sold
machines
39500
for
Style
sizes
shank,
sizes
shank,
sizes
orders
or
the
needle
point,
needle
inch,
the
by
FS,
39500
available
struck
has
both
length,
shank,
midway
between
complete
Union
Special.
use a curved
FT.,
FU,
GD,
GT
is
of
the
round
point.,
groove,
type
and
groove,
denotes
largest
shank
symbol
GL,
Type
blade
JP
154
which
needle.
and
recommended
Description
curved
spotted,
size
number.
finish
and
diameter
and
eye.
is
given
The
MM
is
GBS.
Below
needles.
and
Sizes
blade,
chromium
The
other
details.
of
blade,
Collectively,
on
the
standard
Type
are
154
the
standard
plated
type
label
recommended
GAS
type
length,
and
022., 025, 027, 029, 032, 036, 040, 044, 049, 054,
round
struck
groove,
027, 029,
promptly
type
and
order
would
point,
spotted,
032.
and
size
number
read: 111000
curved
chromium
accurately
should
Needles,
blade,
filled,
be
standard
plated
an
forwarded.
Type
154
length,
and
empty
Use
GAS,
number
The
siz
measured
type
of
all
nee-
..
while
numbers,
single
is
available
060.
double
is
available
package,
description
Size
027
de-
e
and
the
a
11
•
Selection
should
pass
Success
of
needles
putation
more
than
Release
Fig. 1 and
ting
direction
wrench
turn.
left,
No.
Again
To
replace
insert
position,
nut.
Return
After
through
eyelet.
front
that
through
third
tension
front
back
Next
to
back
the
lower
the
through
discs
thread
of
the
freely
in
the
packaged
for
producing
three-quarters
pressure
lA)
and
until
21388
turn
AU.,
handwheel
needle,
needle
turn
handwheel
presser
thread
comes
hole
it
is
threaded
and
then
looper
upper
the
(J).,
hole
lower
through
guide
proper
through
operation
under
highest
on
swing
presser
needle
furnished
leave
in
holder
until
arm
(U)
of
thread
throu
thread
back
hole
(M).
needle
needle
our
of
Union
brand
size
eye
quality
of a century.
CHANGING
presser
foot
arm
is
at
its
with
until
needle
needle
until
it
holder
to
position;
THREAD
from
cones
eyelet
through
gh
the
lower
is
threaded
to
front.,
back
tension
to
post
is
in
Special
name,
needles
by
(U)
lowest
machine,
"is
holder
rests
is
again
re-lock
STAND
on
cone
(B).,
then
the
upper
holes
through
second
front.
slot
determined
order
to
machinee
~
in
NEEDLES
turning
out
point
presser
of
position.
of
loosen
at
high
position;
at
high
against
at
its
presser
(504
STITCH)
support
down
holes
from
the
throu
All
(K)
gh
threads
in
by
size
of
thread
produce a good
can
be
secured
.,
which
materials
travel.
needle
foot
Turn
Using
and
release
handwheel
clamp
withdraw
position
stop
low
(A.,
through
of
tension
back
tension
the
middle
tension
pin.
point
foot
Fig. 1 ),
the
to
front.
then
post
and,
Keeping
of
travel,
release
front
thread
thread
hole
continue
(G)
used.
stitch
formation.
only
is
backed
workmanship
bushing
in
hexagonal
nut
about
needle.
with
the
flat
needle
then
bushing
it
is
brought
hole
of
guide
It
should
guide
front
(C
to
between
and
on
Thread
by
use
by a re-
(AG,
opera-
socket
1/4
to
in
this
tighten
(AG).
thread
(C)
from
be
noted
),
first
back
and
the
through
for
the
up
6
li]
Tension
II
Tension Spring Fe
II
Tension
[!]
Tension
IIJ
spring
Shield ... .-::::,~
Nut
Spring~
Post
r~
---~~~
l;)
Thread
Eyelet
O Tension
l3
Tension
II Tension
[i
Te
nsion
FIJ
Front
IIJupper
Iii
Auxiliary
(9Lower
Discs
Post
Disc
Thread
Thread
Looper
Looper
Looper
:~.::
··
Slot :
Felt
Guide
Guide
Thread
Thread
Thread
· ..
Eyelet
Eyelet
Eyelet
DFrame
Thread
DJ
Presser
Fig.
Looper
Guide
1
Arm
7
..
..,.,.
m
Top
Needle
Upper
Thread
Lower
Cover
Thread
Looper
Tube
Looper
Eyelet
Assembly
m Tension
[!]
Tension Post
ll)
spring Shield
O Tension Di
(I
Tension
Nut
Post
scs
..
· ..
__
Slot ·.
(;)
Thread Eyelet
---...
i
I
I
I
I
I
\
I
_
I
I
I
n Te
[i
f,I)
(II
nsion
Dis
c Felt
Tension
Front
Uppe r Looper
Thread
Thr
ead Guide
·.
Guid
Thread
t,
Eyelet
Iii
Auxiliary
i9
Lower
(il
Fabric
D
Frame
Thread
m
Presser
Fig.
lA
Looper
Looper
Guard Bra
Looper
Guide
Thread
Arm
Thread
Eyelet
cket
Eyelet
8
..
lllli..
~
m
Top
Upper
Looper
Looper
Cover
Looper
Tube Aa
Needle Thread
Thread
Upper
Lower
Eyelet
sembly
THREAD
STAND
(512
STITCH)
After
are
threaded
through
through
holes
guide
threads
post
third.
the
to
(G)
NOTE:
refer
Only
lA).
quence
Fig.
Parts
It
The
threading
1.
the
thread
the
holes
of
the
(C)
front
continue
and
Refer
to
Fig.
parts
will
of
threading
threading
The
right.
comes
through
center
of
the
front
on
are
simplify
additional
bar.
to
between
through
to
Fig. 1 for
lA
for
involved
placed
of
two
from
the
holes
middle
Next
back
and
front
threading
in
the
threading
lower
in
Fig. 1 and
needle
needle
cones
back
of
the
bar
it
then
the
tension
thread
threading
in
threading
their
looper
threads
bar
of
front
from
is
threaded
through
Styles
relative
of
first,
Fig.
in
Fig.
on
cone
the
bar.
back
discs
guide
Styles
39500
THREADING
are
these
lA
in
Fig.
lA
support
thread
The
to
front
through
the
lower
(J),
through
(M).
39500
GD
shown
positions
machines
upper
are
the
lA
moves
looper
looper
eyelet
and
the
and
in
for
same,
as
compared
the
lower
(A,
Fig.
(B),
under
threads
then
upper
holes
FS,
GL.
threading
clarity.
to
second,
from
tension
FT,
follow
the
looper
lA
),
the
come
through
holes
back
post
FU,
GT,
diagrams
the
and
only
to
one
thread
the
needle
middle
from
the
of
tension
to
slot
(K)
JP
recommended
needle
difference
needle
threads
bar
the
two
front.
in
and
MM,
(Fig. 1 and
or
needles
thread
tension
and
cones,
outside
thread
The
tension
or
se
will
be
in
post
-
Before
direction
turning
tion.
Be
tween
ion
for
let
thread
looper
looper
Left
through
of
of
(AA).
sembly
through
the
posts
the
Double
(R,
eye
Turn
upper
looper
lead
beginning
until
presser
sure
different
Fig. 1 or
pull-off
thread
(V)
auxiliary
(AA).
upper
the
tension
should
end
guide
is
all
of
lower
handwheel
looper
thread
thread
Pull
looper
needle
foot
threads,
discs
be
positioned
threads
of
thread
lA)
·(AF).
the
looper
looper
thread
pull-off
under
thread
to
thread,
(X)
release
(J)
from
Lead
(T).
way
until
thread
eyelet
neck
eye
is
as
and
as
indicated
TO
and
right
thread
Turn
to
the
can
be
TO
point
(N)
(AF).
out
from
swing
in
high
bushing
they
come
in
tension
so
the
tension
THREAD
lead
it
to
left.
behind
handwheel
left;
then
threaded
THREAD
of
upper
eyelet
from
After
of
top
cover
bottom
front
cloth
position,
(AG),
from
post
in
Fig. 1 and
LOWER
through
NOTE:
fabric
in
thread
easily
UPPER
looper
(P)from
left
to
pulling
casting
of
tube;
to
back.
plate
release
and
swing
the
slot
post
slot
LOOPER
both
Thread
guard
operating
through
if
LOOPER
(W)
back
right.
up
upper
push
open,
tension
(K)
eyes
tweezers
NOTE:
and
presser
in
will
lA.
is
to
down
tube
pressure
(S)
all
front,
looper
turn
tension
be
of
must
direction
both
handwheel
arm
thread
at
the
lower
pass
and
through
eyes
are
the
way
then
Thread
thread
through
down,
in
on
presser
(U)
guide
post
approximate
looper
in
until
from
in
left
left.
through
must
then
(C),
(G).
thread
front
hole
heel
left
hand.
Lead
pass
tube
thread
insert
operating
foot
out
of
are
The
of
looper
of
of
to
thread
both
in
assembly
tube
thread
by
posi-
betensangle
eye
frame
lower
right.
eyes
front
as
-
-
CAUTION!
ing
from
tube
Be
sure
assembly
upper
to
upper
looperthread
looper
eye.
9
is
under
lowerlooperthreadwhenpass-
TO
THREAD
THE
NEEDLE
Turn
is
at
its
highest
both
eyes
through
front.
The
(D.
Fig. 1 or
formation.
PRESSER
Sufficient
should
decrease
nut
(A.
has a right
loosening
screw
presser
(C)
so
to
1/16
justing
of
hole
amount
be
Fig.
(B)
foot
that
inch
screw
handwheel
position.
needle
or
FOOT
maintained.
amount
2)
hand
decreases
has
its
(.
thread
holes
of
tension
lA).
Tension
PRESSURE
presser
of
and
turn
thread
been
resting
under
79
to
(B).
Set
in
operating
Insert
eyelet
in
top
foot
Should
pressure
adjusting
so
pressure.
properly
on
throat
surface
1.
59
mm)
cap
needle
(AD).
cover
THREAD
on
needle
on
threads
pressure
it
be
on
screw
tightening
set.
plate.
is
from
(D)
against
direction
under
needle
and
to
necessary
presser
When
tighten
approximately
the
until
thread
neck
thread
TENSION
looper
should
feed
work
foot.
(B).
Adjusting
increases
pressure
lock
position
top
locking
needle
or
threads
of
eyelet
threads
be
only
uniformly
to
increase
loosen
pressure.
nut
(A).
locking
1 / 32
surface
nut
(C).
or
needles
from
top
cover
(AC).
is
enough
or
lock
screw
adjusting
With
nut
inch
of
ad-
right
casting;
Thread
regulated
to
secure
(X.
Fig. 1 or
to
left.
and
by
proper
Fig.
through
then
needle
tension
2
lA)
down
from
nuts
stitch
Feed
approximately
feed
eccentric
39540
of
stitches
will
be
eccentrics
Generally
of
stitches
give
the
Following
5.,
6.
B-4.
shipped
proper
1.
8.,
eccentrics
obtainable
used
produced;
used
14
stitches
is
No.
39540
Minor
9.
numbers
when
with
speaking.
differential
stitch
10. 11. 12. 13.
on
above
the
the
number
other
FEED
in
Style
per
inch.
B-14
of
the
using
the
differential
that
combination
styles
main
or
gathering
feed
14.,
40.
chine.
ately.
a
stitches
ASSEMBLING
ECCENTRICS
39500
while' that
part
of
(right
eccentrics
15.,
Only
minor
FS
It
will
symbol
eccentric.
of
machines
hand)
(left
hand)
action.
16.,
two
Additional
To
order
number
desired.
machines
be
noted
of
the
differential
indicate
Unless
eccentrics.
covered
feed
eccentric
feed
are
available
18.,
20.,
eccentrics
eccentrics
an
eccentric.
suffixed
Example:
AND
ADJUSTING
have
that
approximately
otherwise
Refer
in
eccentric
22. 24.
are
been
the
"39540
selected
part
feed
to
this
catalog.
determines
is
under
26.,
28.,
supplied
may
use
to
indicate
SEWING
number
eccentric
specified.
exploded
selected
No.
30.,
with
be
ordered
No.
39540 B with
B-14".
to
produce
of
is
the
number
machine
views
the
number
so
39540
32.,
34. 36.
each
separ-
number
PARTS
main
No.
for
as
to
B-4.
ma-
of
Fig.
3
Before
remove
knife
follow
assembly.
this
assembling
cloth
suggested
10
plate.,
lower
fabric
sequence.
and
guard.,
knife
adjusting
chip
holder
sewing
guard.,
assembly.
parts.
upper
then
SETTING
THE
NEEDLE
in
needle
At
this
into
stroke,
center
21225-1/8,
MM.
at
(1.
gauge
left
59
bar
of
On
end
mm)
No.
set
Styles
deflecting
differential
Fig.
driving
point,
(B).
With
looper
needle
on
Styles
39500
of
its
from
21225-1/16.
needle.
(front)
4
arm.
insert
lower
point
(Fig.
stroke,
center
Tighten
feed
5),
39500
GD
of
Do
dog.
lower
looper
1/8
using
and
set
left
not
nut
should
needle
1/2
for
inch
align
move
clamp
ly,
laps
looper
looper
looper
inch
FS,
FT,
GL,
looper
needle,
have
(C
With
inch
Styles
(11.
needle
tighten
If
looper
at
left
(3.17
looper
FU,
with
point
lower
).
Now
throat
center
is
at
(12.
91
needle
screw
needle
thread
pull-off
(A,
end
mm)
gauge
GT,
lower
1
using
assemble
in
high
70
39500
mm)
or
driving
(C).
clamp
thread
thread
Fig.
of
from
JP
looper
/16
inch
looper
looper
plate
the
front
position,
mm)
FS,
above
FT,
for
set
the
After
screw
cam
pull-off
pull-off
screw,
5)
its
No.
and
assembled
end
needle
throat
FU,
GT,
Styles
height
arm
39500
above
(B,
needle
and
remove
pull-off
(B),
back.
be
sure
in
position,
of
needle
point
plate
JP
and
GD
the
Fig.
has
been
(A,
separate
When
to
take
Fig.
elot.
should
(A,
MM;
and
throat
3)
by
loosening
set
proper-
throat
Fig.
4)
by
retightening
up
end
5
needle
When
be
set
Fig.
GL.
3)
15/32
To
plate,
plate.
over-
moving
play
Fig.
needle
guard
Tighten
SETTING
Assemble
is
springing
as
close
to
adjust
the
r e
6
nut
THE
as
possible
and
is
surface
(C,
Fig.
FRONT
front
needle
set
no
int
SETTING
Set
out
interfering
knife
holder,
ward
rear
rear
needle
needle
SETTING
Now
lower
should
7)
until
another.
5)
NEEDLE
needle
off
rear
to
needle
front
needle
e r
fer
THE
rear
REAR
needle
but
•
002-.
004
guard.
guard
THE
LOWER
finish
looper
be
the
set
into
needle
002-.
moves
securely.
GUARD
guard
(C,
needle
without
guard.
enc e between
guard
with
still
inch
Make
and
lower
the
springs
004
Fig.
guard,
touching.
After
NEEDLE
(A,
either
in
position
(.
051-.102
sure
lower
LOOPER
looper
to
the
needle
forward
inch
6).
When
set
front
Screw
this
needle
GUARD
Fig.
lower
looper
to
mm).
there
looper.
adjustment.
right,
scarf
from
(.
051-.102
lower
needle
(D)
setting
make
guards
6)
as
deflect
Screw
is
no
its
point
(A,
Fig.
rear
mm).
looper
guard
is
used
sure
and
high
or
as
movement
needle
(B)
interference
As
differential
possible,
of
or
needles
is
used
Fig.
feed
with-
lower
for-
to
set
between
7
dog.
11
SETTING
THE
UPPER
LOOPER
Insert
holds
in
or
out
into
upper
(C
).
on
Locate
1/16
on
to
Styles
NOTE:
1/16
inch(.
When
upper
shank
and
MM
upper
or
upper
looper
turned
looper
looper
clamp
uprer
3 32
39500
On
the
looper
looper
inch
Style
79
to
upper
holder
holds
FS.
1.
approximately
(Fig.
8).
in
its
around
shaft.
the
in
(1.
59
FT.
39500
59
mm)
looper
should
vertical
NOTE:
should
vertical
sure
and
looper
upper
lower
clearance
(A.
holder.
its
if
it
upper
its
holder
to
2.
FU.
GD.
JP
the
beyond
be
on
casting.
shaft
looper
looper
Fig.
shank.
is
38
GL.
shank
is
at
be
set
on
•
On
Styles
set
when
all
styles.
(Fig.
8)
in
and
Insert
not
already
looper
so
mm)
GT
holder.
the
to
Styles
to
the
By
and
point
eye
9).
its
holder.
permits
upper
holder
that
the
beyond
and
MM.
should
right
end
position
39500
39500
position
upper
there
adjusting
by
turning
to
with
Screw
it
to
be
pushed
looper
in
place.
in
the
shank
holder
extend
of
its
extends
(Fig.
1/32
stroke.
upper
FS.
FT.
FU.
GD.
GL
and
upper
looper
looper
is
at
is a clearance
looper
the
looper
cross
•
002
lower
to
•
004
(B).
holder
Screw
shaft.
8)
to
looper
GT
JP
right
holder
looper
inch
the
upper
shank
end
between
in
around
(.
slightly
of
its
or
its
to
the
051
Fig.
looper
stroke.
heel
out
shank.
left
to
•
8
back
of
of
102
holder
of
Be
looper
upper
set
of
the
mm)
travel;
(Fig.
Fig.
10).
Styles
NOTE:
inch
(3.
settings
Fig.
check
1 O).
-
39500
For
97
are
9
dimensions
If
resetting
Figure
FS.
Style
and
12.
1/8
the
head
10
represents
FT.
FU.
39500
30
mm).
inch
As
heel
with
Next.
of
is
necessary.
GT
JP.
(3.17
and
17
ample
is
increased
holder
left
end
inch
upper
upper
are
made.
upper
to
maintain
the
of
the
1/64
turn
upper
upper
looper
looper
upper
to
1/32
handwheel
do
the
dimensional
and
MM.
the
settings
For
Styles
mm)
/32
dimension
to
inch
by
39500
the
(13.49
1/2
turning
counterclockwise
of
machine;
(3.
57
mm)
is
looper
looper
looper
:q.older
shaft.
it
may
around
the
condition
moves
looper
inch
point
it
are
with
by
5/32
GD
left
of
mm).
inch
dimension
increased
to
the
After
be
these
necessaryto
its
shank
should
(.40
until
looper
respectto
moving
setting
and
and
GL.
right
For
(12.
70
upper
looking
by
pulling
left.
changes
slightly
shown
toward
pass
to.
79
the
for
31/64
the
needle
ex-
mm)
looper
from
9 /
64
out
of
turn
in Fig.
the
behind
mm)
is
at
needle
upper
9.
top
of
its
the
lower
clearance.
the
left
and
throat
looper
holder
Fig.
end
10
stroke.
looper
of
its
plate
(A.
Fig.
11
When
quickly
when
upper
upper
the
as
looper
correct
follows:
looper
and
needle
As
eye
12
setting
upper
centers
should
is
obtained.
looper
on
align
the
exactly
is
moving
needle.
it
(Fig.
can
the
be
checked
to
the
eyes of
11 ).
right.
the
SETTING
THE
UPPER
LOOPER
(Continued)
(B)
and
This
.a
straight
should
tating
lowers
The
first
feed
tilting
so
that
throat
higher
set
can
be
now
feed
the
feed
appear
teeth
plate.
if
desired.
both
checked
edge.
be
leveled
tilting
back
dogs
above
adjusting
rise
The
Fig.
feeds
by
Now
end
assemble
with
adjusting
of
both
should
the
pin
about
differential
12
so
the
sighting
throat
pin
feed
be
set
throat
in
place.
3/64
top
across
throat
(C
).
bars
level
plate.
inch
feed
surfaces
plate.
plate
This
at
at
Screw
Now
(1.19mm)
may
the
teeth
Feed
surface
pin
raises
the
same
the
time
(E)
set
feed
be
set
ference
needle
needle
per,
slightly
distance
from
maintain
11.
SETTING
dog
machine.
of
the
by
time.
teeth
locks
dogs
above
slightly
teeth
with
dogs
ro-
or
Check
pull
left
Now
(A,
setting
between
on
needle
rubs
the
looper
and
rotate
counterclockwise,
end
of
dimensions
THE
assemble
Fig.
all
12)
Assemble
lie
to
avoid
upper
downstroke.
back
machine.
FEED
in
of
out
of
looper a short
of
Figs.
DOGS
differential
if
not
main
the
same
inter-
looper
upper
its
holder
looking
Reset
9,
already
feed
plane.
and
If
loo-
to
10,
feed
on
dog
NOTE:
level
of
its
SETTING
(A,
throat
lower
justment
nut
cloth
not
setting
Upper
approximatelyl/64
surface
On
with
the
travel.
THE
Replace
Fig.
(C)
tightened
Replace
plate
knife.
Lower
against
plate
nut
knife
of
13)
is
the
Style
top
lower
should
surface.
Lower
necessary
knife
latch
against
upper
(E )
to
chain
upper
39500
of
throat
LOWER
knife
be
Adjustments
knife
may
be
support
spring,
lower
knife
hold
guard
inch
knife.
JP,
plate
KNIFE
holder
set
with
is
when
secured
bracket.
it
should
SETTING
assembly.
clamp
(G)
(.40
set
assembly.
spring
width
knife
(F )
should
mm)
the
chaining
when
cutting
are
pressed
of
trim
in
any
Because
always
holder.
in
it s
behind
feed
Lower
edge
made
is
position
screw
be
THE
Clamp
most
be
positioned
the
feed
is
at
the
flush
with
against
changed.
locked
UPPER
upp
clockwi
cutting
dog
top
knife
with
hexagonal
upper
by
tightening
(B)
also
with
KNIFE
er
knife
se pos
so
edge
serves
nut
that
head
knife,
(C)
(D, F
ition
the
and
screw
screw
as
even
ig.
again
guarding
in
contact
Fi.g ·
so
(B)
latch
13)
st
13
which
no
lateral
and
pin
when
in
position,
upper kni
section
with
holds
locking
for
screw
the
ad-
the
is
fe.
is
top
13
SETTING
At
the
cutting
tend
below
edge
not
cutting
THE
bottom
less
UPPER
of
upper
than
edge
of
1 /
of
KNIFE
its
knife
64
inch
lower
(Continued)
stroke,
should
(.
knife.
4 0
front
ex
mm)
-
After
proper
be
width
tightened
holding
simplify
replaced.
SETTING
Length
the
used.
14)
dog;
(B)
combination
Outer
actuates
while
actuates
In
be
sure
(C)
and
washer
To
change
frame
from
(M).
stud
upper
of
trim,
to
block
(J)
resetting
THE
STITCH
of
stitch
(left)
differential
the
inner
the
assembling
hubs
are
(0)
feed
Remove
(J).
Link
knife
lock
in
when
of
eccentric
main
feed
facing
and
eccentric,
nut
(K)
has
been
screw
the
upper
place.
upper
LENGTH
is
determined
feed
(front)
(right)
(rear)
each
tighten
(C)
and
set
for
(H)
must
knife
This
will
knife
eccentrics
(A,
Fig.
feed
eccentric
feed
dog.
eccentrics,
other.
Be
securely.
remove
and
washer
eccentric
is
by
(A)
careful
thrust
(D)
from
will
not
finger
now
to
end
slip
Fig.
damage
(L)
from
of
shaft
off.
14
shaft
its
(G).
or
key.
seat
on
Remove
Use
the
nut
nut
main
(H)
by
an
stops
The
position
upper
determines
Fig.
of
15
the
and a lower
the
feed
differential
stop.
The
action.
Using
supplied
(B)
as
be
necessaryto
slightly
allow
the
• 003
thrust
connecting
SETTING
Differential
the
use
Style
3 95 00
screws
and
MM.
control
lever
amount
14
hooked
with
shown
during
inch
finger
rod
THE
of
one
JP
on
Styles
of
lever
eccentric
machine,
and
withdraw
move
reach
handwheel
extraction.
(.
076
mm)
and
the
differential
in
a 3
60°
turn.
DIFFERENTIAL
feed
action
micrometer
and
two
micrometer
(A,
39500
Fig.
FS,
15
and
movement
extractor
behind
eccentric.
back
When
reassembling
clearance
RA
is
obtainable
adjusting
FT,
FU,
15A)
between
eccentric
and
between
feed
TIO
screw
adjusting
GD,
is
governed
these
It
forth
drive
GL,
(E
may
thru
on
GT
two
),
.
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