Union Special 39500FF, 39500FG, 39500FH, 39500GN, 39500JD User Manual

®

INDUSTRIAL SEWING

FINEST

QUALITY

STYLES

39500FF 39500FG 39500FH 39500GN 39500JD

LEWIS

•

COLUMBIA

MACHINES

.

0

/

CATALOG

No.

CLASS

39500

103FF

Second Edition

BLIND

ST

ITC

HI-STYLED

H

IG

H

HEMMING

CORPORATION

CHICAGO

SPE

ED

MACHINE

Catalog

(Supplement

No.

to

Catalog

INSTRUCTIONS

FOR

103

FF

No.

103

FA)

ADJUSTING

LIST

CLASS

39500

FF

FG

Second

AND

OF

Styles

39500

OPERATING

PARTS

39

50

39500

JD

Edition

0

FH

GN

Union

Rights

Copyri

Special

Reserved

g

ht

1967

By

Corporation

in

All

CORPORATION

INDUSTRIAL

Printed

SEWING

CHICAGO

in

2

MACHINES

U.s.

A.

Countries

January,

1975

IDENTIFICATION

OF

MACHINE

Each

the

machine.

numbers

"Style

39500

changes

number.

Styles

which

differs

39500".

This junction GN

and

of

the

book.

This herein. Class are

39500.

taken

direction

Union

Style numbers

have

one

FF".

are

made

Example:

of

machines from

catalog

therewith.

JD,

and

catalog

It

can

also

References

from

of

handwheel

Sp e

cial

machine

are

or

more

Special

letters

Style

in a standard

"Style

39500

similar

the

Style

number

APPLICATION

is a supplement

Only

not

on

applies

be

the

those

Styles

specifically

applied

to

directions

operator's

is

away

is

identified

classified

suffixed~

numbers

machine,

FFZ".

in

construction

in

that

to

Catalog

parts

39500

which

FA

or

to

with

discretion

..

such

position

from

STYLES

operator.

OF

by a Style

as

standard

but

never

contain

a

"Z"

are

it

contains

OF

CATALOG

No.

103

are

used

FB

..

are

the

standard

to

some

as

right

while

seated

MACHINES

number

and

special.

contain

the

is

suffixed

grouped

FA

on

letter

no

letters.

and

Styles

the

under a Class

illustratedand

Styles

Special

and

left,

at

the

on a name

letter

"Z".

to

When

the

Example:

should

39500

listedat

of

machines Styles front machine.

Standard

11

Z".

only

standard

be

used

FF~

of

machines

and

back

plate

on

Style

Example:

minor

Style

number~

"Class

in

con-

FG

..

FH~

the

back

as

listed

in

..

etc

...

Operating

Hi-Styled Thread,

Pressed 39500

FF light material specification, differential

39500

FG hemming crossing cam R.

P.M.

39500

a

FH

short clearance. justed

39500

GN

spreader,

from adjusted

High

Speed

Overseaming

Lower

weight

Light

used

Knife,

to

rayon,

on

feeds.

Same

as

guide,

seams.

adjusted

Same

main

as

stitch

Seam

main

Same

the

and

thus

top.

main

as

the

Seam

and

Single

Machine.

Automatic

medium

panties,

503-EFc-1;

39500

to

Seam

39500 tongue

specification

differential

39500

threading

differential

Curved

Differential

Lubricating

duty

silk..

machine

cotton,

slips,

stitch

Maximum

FF.,

assure

recommended

except

positive

specification,

and

differential

FF~

except

presser

..

feeds.

FH.,

except

of

specification~

feeds.

Blade

Needle

for

wool

nightgowns

range

equipped

needle

feeds.

fitted

foot

with a long

which

503-EFc-1;

Maximum

fitted

this

machine 503-EFc-1;

Maximum

..

One

Feed,

Trimming

System.

blind

and

nylon

..

tee.,

8-30

per

speed

with

knee

penetration

503-EFc-1;

Maximum

allows

stitch

recommended

with

is

easier

stitch

recommended

Looper~

Mechanism

stitch

athletic

inch;

7000

flat..

welting

warp and

cam

R.

P.

press

of

stitch

recommended

stitch

tongue

maximum

range

an

8-30

upper

because

range

One

Spreader,

or

and

polo

adjusted

M.

operated

garment

range

8-30

throat

spreader

per

inch;

speed

looper

8-30

per

speed

Two

with

Spring

hemming

ribbed

shirts.

knit

Seam

main

retractable

body

speed

per

when inch;

7000

plate

point

cam

7000

R.

P.

and a lower

is

threaded

inch;

7000

R.

cam

P.

on

and

and ad-

M.

39500

JD

a

short

ance.

main

Same

stitch

Seam

and

differential

as

39500

tongue

FF,

presser

specification.

feeds.

except

foot

fitted

which

503-EFc-1;

Maximum

with a long

allows

stitch

range

recommended

3

maximum

stitch

8-30

speed

tongue

spreader

per

inch;

7000

throat

point

cam

R.

plate

adjusted

P.

M.

and

clear-

OILING

CAUTION! filled straight should

before

mineral

be

Machine sight gauge

gauge

lines

Machine main

reservoir

The

It

is a magnetic

have

entered

Each number size sured number of

all

denotes

number,

in

and

needles

Oil

beginning

oil

used.

is

fill

on

front

when

machine

is

automatically

filled.

drain

plug

screw

the

crank

Union

Special

the

stamped

thousandths

size

number

packaged

was

drained

to

operate.

of a Saybolt

ed

with

of

machine.

is

Check

screw

is

designed

case.

needle

kind

of

shank,

on

the

of

an

inch

represent

and

from

viscosity

oil

at

spring

Red

stationary.

lubricated.

oil

daily

located

to

accumulate

It

should

has

point,

needle

midway

sold

by

machine

Oil

capacity

of

cap

bulb

on

No

oiling

before

at

back

be

removed

NEEDLES

both a type

length,

shank,

denotes

between

the

complete

Union

Special.

when

of

90

to

in

top

oil

level

the

morning

of

machine

possible

number

groove,

shank

symbol

shipped,

Class

125

seconds

cover.

indicator

is

necessary,

foreign

and

cleaned

and a size

finish

largest

and

39500

Oil

start;

near

diameter

eye.

which

so

reservoir

is

at

100°

level

should

other

add

oil

bottom

materials

periodically.

number.

and

other

of

Collectively,

is

given

six

ounces.

Fahrenheit

is

checked

show

than

as

required.

edge

which

details. blade,

on

must

between

keeping

of

base.

may

The

type

The

mea-

type

the

label

be

A

at

These FG, FH, groove, 036,

040,

To

sample

label.

A

Selection Thread mation.

Success

of

needles

tion

for

than

three-quarters

Release

Fig. 1 or

ting

direction wrench turn.

Again

machines

GN

and

spotted

044,

have

needle

needle,

complete

of

should

pass

in

packaged

producing

pressure

1A)

and

until

No.

21388

turn

use a curved

JD

is

and

chromium

049,

054

orders

or

type

order

proper

freely

the

operation under

highest

of a century.

on

swing

needle

AU,

handwheel

type

154

and

060.

promptly

and

size

would

needle

through

of

our

brand

quality

CHANGING

presser

is

at

furnished

until

blade

GAS.

plated,

number

read:

size

should

needle

Union

name,~

needles

foot

arm

its

lowest

with

needle

needle.

It

is

available

and

should

"1000

be

eye

Special

in

NEEDLES

by

turning

(U)

out

machine,

is

at

Standard

standard

in

accurately

be

Needles,

determined

in

order

machines

materials

presser

of

position.

point

of

loosen

high

position,

needle

length,

sizes

022,

filled,

forwarded.

Type

154

by

to

produce a good

can

which

and

foot

Turn

travel.

needle

for

Styles

single

an

the

be

is

grooved,

025,

empty

Use

GAS,

size

secured

backed

027,

description

Size

of

workmanship

release

handwheel

Using

hexagonal

clamp

withdraw

needle.

39500

struck

029,

package,

027".

thread

used.

stitch

only

by

by a reputa-

for

more

bushing

in

(AG,

opera-

socket

nut

about

FF,

032,

a

on

for-

use

1/4

To

left,

insert position, nut.

Return

replace

turn

needle,

needle

handwheel

presser

in

arm

leave

holder

until

(U)

needle

until

holder

to

holder

it

rests

is

position

against

again

and

at

high

at

its

re-lock

stop

low

(AG).

4

position

pin. point

presser

and

with

Keeping

of

travel,

foot

the

needle

then

release

flat

in

tighten

bushing

to

the

this

li]

Tension

~~

Tension

II

Tension

[;]

Tension

IIJ

spring

O

Tension

~~

Tension

n

Tension

Nut Spring

Spring

Post

Shield

Discs

Post Disc

Ferrule

~

...

.-:-':

:

~:~---

Slot·:

Felt

!'41~~

:~

''·

.. '

,..

. ' _

·.

·~-:

_..,

.-

f

,

~:;)

Thread

Cl"\\

-

Eyelet

0

r.IJ

m

Lower

(ii

Fabric

Frame

D

(g

Presser

Front

Thread

Looper

Guard

Looper

Guide

Thread

Eyelet

Presser

Release

..

Needle

Thread

Top

Upper

u

...-.

Foot

Bushing

Cover

Thread

Looper

Tube

Assembly

Eyelet

Fig.

1

5

(;]

Tension Nut

(~Te

II

[!] IIJ

O Tension

[I

(I

fiJ

nsion

Tension Spring Tension

spring

Tension Tension

Front

Spring

Post

Shield

Discs Post Disc

Thread

Fer~

~~~

-..:

~

Slot :

Felt ·

..

Guide

~

lli

liJ

IIJ

ID

Auxiliary

Upper

Presser

Fig.

lA

Looper

Ar

Thread

Eyelet

lr.li~:,~!

Top

Needle

.,

Upper

ead

Cover

Thread

Looper

Tube

Assembly

Eyelet

6

CONE

SUPPORT

After through Next. thread

it

guide

continues

Onlypartsinvolv

Parts

It

are

will sequence upper

looper

NOTE:

for

Style

Before

direction

turning

tension

Be

presser

sure discs

thread com

the

back

is

threaded

hole

through

(C). then

between tension

placed

in

their

simplify

of

threadin

on

Style 39500

Use

Fig. 1 for

39500

GN.

beginning

until

the

(J)

needle

foot

release

threads,

and

es

of

e

din

the

g

to

in

the

(X)

from thread

through

cone

the

discs

eyelet,

appropriate

the

(J)

threadingare

relative

threading

lower

GN

looper

first.

threadingStyles

thread,

is

at

swing

high

bushing

as

they

tension

post

on

cone

then

support

down

upper

lower

through

holes

slot

THREADING

shownin

positions

of

these

on

Styles

Then

thread

39500

cloth

position,

(AG)

come

from

slots

and

(K)

(A.

Fig. 1 or

through

holes

from

(K)

and

the

from

back

on

threadingdiagram(Fig.

for

clarity.

ma

chines

plate

release

swing

the

in

39500

FF,

open,

tension

to

the

needle.

FG,

turn

pressure

presser

posts

FF,

thread

1A)

front

to

front.

through

follow

FG,

FH

a~d

handwheel

arm

(U) guide,

(G).

it

is

thread

to

back

Then

thread

the

recommended

FH

and

JD;

use

in

on

presser out

of

are

brought

eyelet

in

tension

thread

guide

1

and

1A).

JD

or

Fig.

operating

foot

position.

between

up

(B).

(M).

the

1A

by

Double

(R,

Fig.

off

(AF). guide the

way looper

Double

Turn

handwheel

through

of

upper

NOTE; looper down

through

down.

Turn highest thread cover

TO

1)

Lead

(T).

Turn

to

the

can

be

auxiliary

looper

thread thread

then

handwheel

position.

eyelet

needle

THREAD

end

of

from

thread

handwheel

left,

threaded

end

of

until

thread

must

tube

thread

insert

(AD)

thread

right

behind

then

TO

thread

point

looper

pass

assembly

tube

thread

in

Insert

under

eyelet

LOWER

and

lead

to

left.

fabric

in

operating

thread

through

easily

THREAD

and

lead

of

upper

thread

eyelet

in

(N)

front

assembly

through

TO

operating

needle

neck

(AC).

LOOPER

it

Note;

guard

if

tweezers

UPPER

it

through

looper

eyelet

from

of

looper

(AA.

lead

upper

THREAD

direction

thread

of

top

Thread

(Styles

through

thread

bracket

direction

both

eyes are

LOOPER

(W

(P)

from

left

thread

(AA).

looper

THE

from

cover

needle

both

must

left

Fig.

to

right

Pull

until

right

casting,

in

39500

eyes

pass

in

(S)

and

until

from

left

heel left hand.

(Style

eyelet

back

1A)

to

of

is

.

pull-off under

thread

eye

from

NEEDLE

needle

to

left.

from

front.

FF,

of

lower

front

through

of

to

39500

thread

all

the

front,

(AF).

neck

out

bottom

front

(X.

through

then

down

FG,

FH,

looper

of

looper

frame

lower

right.

GN)

guide

way

then

After

of

top to

back.

Fig. 1 or

both

through

JD)

thread

looper

Left

eye

(M,

left.

Lead

through

pulling cover of

tube;

1A)

eyes

eyelet

thread

(V)

of

Fig.

thread

both

up up

casting

push

is

of

needle

hole

pull-

is

all

lower

1A). eyes

par and

tube

at

its

in

top

The

tension

proper

amount

nuts

stitch

of

tension

(D.

Fig. 1 or

formation.

on

lA).

THREAD

needle

Tension

and

TENSION

looper

on

threads

7

threads

should

is

regulated

be

only

by

two

enough

knurled

to

secure

PRESSER

FOOT

PRESSURE

Feed mately 39500

per

of eccentric eccentric

39540

of will

GN

inch.

the

B-7.

stitches

be

Fig.

main

2

eccentrics

14

stitches

the

It

will

is

obtainable

shipped

per

eccentrics

be

noted

feed

Minor

No. No.

with

eccentric

39540

numbers

above

used

inch

that

B-8. B-9

when

Sufficient formly increase loosen Adjusting

creases pressure tighten plate. approximately of

(C).

in

these

have

is

of

using

combinations

should

or

lock

pressure.

lock

position

adjusting

FEED

machine

on

Styles

been

on

Styles

No.

On

Style

while

the

part

that

presser be

maintained.

decrease

nut

(A.

screw

adjusting

selected 39540

that

eccentric.

has a right

nut

(A).

locking

1 I 3 2

inch

screw

ECCENTRICS

have

39500

symbol ,indicate

of

FF.

to

FF.

B-14

GN

of

the

eccentrics.

foot

amount

Fig. loosening

2) hand

screw With

(B).

Unless

presser

nut

(C)

to

1 I 16

Set

been

FG.

produce

FG.

while

the

part

differential

otherwise

pressure

Should

of

pressure

and

turn

decreases

(B)

so

inch

cap

selected

FH

approximately

FH

that

approximately

adjusting

thread.

has

foot

that

its

from

(D)

to

and

JD.

of

the

number

feed

to

feed

it

be

necessary

on

presser

so

tightening

pressure.

been

specified.

properly

resting

under

the

against

produce

JD.

while

the

part differential of

the

eccentric

work

screw

on

throat

surface

top

surface

locking

approxi-

on

9

stitches

number

main

is

the

number

machines

uni-

to

foot.

(B).

in-

When

set.

is

nut

Style

feed

No.

Generally

of

stitches

and

direction

Following

6,

7, 8, Only Additional order number stitches

move knife guide

should needle 17 or driving Remove

two

an

suffixed desired.

ASSEMBLING

Before

cloth

assembly,

assembly;

With

center

is

I 3 2

inch

set

the

arm

throat

speaking.

produced;

of

stretch

stitch

9,

10,

11,

eccentrics

eccentric,

assembling

plate,

lower

then

SETTING

throat

in

at

high

position,

above

throat height (A,

Fig.

plate

main

number

12, 13,

are

may

use

to

indicate

Example:

AND

and

fabric

knife

follow

plate

the

assembled

front

plate

above

3)

after

differential

(left

hand)

of

material

feed

14, 15,

supplied

be

No.

"39540

ADJUSTING

adjusting

guard,

holder

this

THE

end

needle

(Fig.

throat

by

loosening

making

eccentrics

ordered

39540 B

approximate

assembly,

suggested

NEEDLE

of

plate,

first

(right

feed

being

16,

with

B-14".

SEWING

sewing

chip

in

position,

needle

point

3).

To

clamp

hand)

eccentric

sewn.

are

18.

20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30.

each

separately.

machine.

with

guard,

adilustment.

a

number

parts,

hemming

sequence.

slot.

should

align

move

screw

minor

PARTS

upper

needle

When

be needle needle

feed or available

(B).

is

type

To

of

re-

set

eccentric

selected

of

operation.

under

determines

in

relation

No.

39540

32,

Fig.

3

34,

number

to

degree

B-4.

36,

5.

40.

8