Page 1
®
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
FINE
ST
S
39
500AR
QUALITY
TYLE
LEWIS
•
COLUMBIA
MACHINES
CLASS
39500
CATALOG
No.
103AR
HIGH
STREAMLINED
SPEED
CHICAGO
OVERSEAMERS
Page 2
INDUSTRIAL
...
for
Every
Purpose!
SEWING
MACHINES
Job requirements
variety
of
specially designed sewing machines.
why Union
vary-
that's why Union Special builds a wide
It
is also the reason
Special field representatives make a careful study
requirements before giving you detailed recommendations
of
kind
equipment to install. Plants equipped with modern, high
speed Union Specials have an important advantage. Union
machines are built to
they stay on the job with minimum time
do
the job faster
...
better .
out
for
..
cheaper, and
repairs.
ahead when you use Union Special.
50000
The
thousands
SERIES machines are finding these ultra-modern, streamlined
models
boosting production
many machines in the improved 50000 SERIES
to
to
do
a specific job effic1ently, quickly, and economically!
of
be invaluable aids in cutting costs
THE
Never before has a general purpose Lockstitch machine been so
thoroughly engineered for handling modern industrial sewing
!
requirements
Union Special
or
heavy weight work
tacking
And
SIXTY-ONE-FOUR-
and
back stitching
SERIES
manufacturers using
of
a wide variety
61400
never has a machine offered more than the new
...
for
...
MACHINES
Union
Special's new 50000
of
operations
of
products. Each
is
specially desig
of
LOCKSTITCH
a superior machine for
short
runs
as
well
as
long
for curved seams and straight runs.
light
...
on
Special
You
and
the
ned
for
of
the
're
NEEDLE
Latest improvements in engineering, manufacturing methods,
materials have been combined in Union Special Class 61800
Class
62200
with smooth, streamlined, light-running machines that reduce
fatigue and strain. It's no wonder
throughout
these ultra-modern machines!
THE
This new development antiquates every machine presently on
market for use where a curved needle machine
From its handsome, dynamically functional, modern design to its
innermost mechanism, the THIRTY-NINE-FIVE has been
duced to accelerate quicker . . .
smoothly
greater
today.
and
profit
35700-35800
Union Special's popular feed-off-the-arm felling machines are light
running, smooth operating machines
sewing head
eliminates
lightest touch. Faster felling
35700-35800 feed-off-the-arm machines.
FEED
needle feed Lockstitch machines providing operators
the
country are praising
NEW
quietly
than
of
the latest type, new presser bar which practically
feed marking,
LOCKSTITCH
that
the
CLASS
...
any other like equipment available to users
39500
run
with less maintenance
FEED-OFF-THE-ARM
that
ana
presser foot which will lift at
is
certain with Union Special Clas s
MACHINES
manufacturers
superior performance
in
plants
OVEREDGER
is
recommended.
faster . . . operate more
...
and yield a
MACHIN
offer great advantages:
and
and
of
the
pro-
ES
the
Page 3
Catalog
(Supplement
INSTRUCTIONS
No.
to
Catalog
FOR
103
No.
AR
103 S)
ADJUSTING
The
furnished
parts
at
LIST
CLASS
listed
list
First
AND
OF
Style
39500
prices
OPERATING
PARTS
39500
AR
in
this
Edition
for
catalog
repairs
are
only.
Union
Rights
Copyright
by
Special
Reserved
1963
Machine
in
All
MACHINE COMPANY
INDUSTRIAL
Printed
SEWING
CHICAGO
in
MACHINES
U.S.A.
Co.
Countries
Page 4
IDENTIFICATION
OF
MACillNE
Each
the
name
Standard
letter
"Z".
to
the
"Z".
When
standard
Styles
which
diff
This
therewith.
39500
P~
This
It
can
also
Reference
operator's
is
away
Union Speci
plate
on
the
Style numbers
Example:
only min
Style
of
machines
ers from
catalog
Only
the
is a
those
are illustrated
catalog
be
to
app
applied
direction,
position
from
the
op
al
machine
machine.
have
"Style
or
changes are
number.
is
Style
one
39500
Example:
similar
style
number~
APPLICATION
supplement
parts
and lis
lies
specifically
which
ted
with discretion
such
while
as
seated
rator.
STYLE
identified
numbers
or
more letters
AR".
ma
in
construction
in
that
to
Catalog
are
at
the
to
the
to
some
right~
at
the
OF
by a Style
are
Special
de
in a standard
"Style 39500
number
classified
suffixed~
Style
numbers
machine,
ARZ".
are grouped
it
contains
OF
CATALOG
No.
10 3 S
used
back
on
of
Standard
Special
left~
front~
no le
and
Style
the
book.
Style
Styles
back~
tt
should
39500
of
machine
of
etc.~
machine. Operating
MACHINE
which
as
standard
but
never
contain
a "
under a cla
rs.
Example:
be
used
AR~
and
as
machines
are
direction
is
stamp
and
contain
Z"
is suffixed
ss
in
conjunction
not
listed
in
this
given
of
handwheel
ed
special.
the
letter
number
"39
on
herein.
class.
from
into
the
11
500
Style
the
•
Single
Two
Curved
Thread~
Blade
High
Mechanism With
39500
AR
For break
garments
without
material,
wi
the
a f
hingedopen
per
CAUTIO
filled bef
straight
should
be
Machine
gauge
on front
inch;
mineral
cam
N!
ore beg
used.
is
filled
of
lines.
Machine is
main
r e
servo
automatically
ir f
Needle~
Throw~
Spring
open
Two
Overseaming
Pressed
seaming
th either a two
standard
abric
to
make
adjusted
Oil
was drain
inning
oil
with
machine.
of a
trimming
guide
LSa-1;
main
to
operate.
Saybolt
oil
at spring
Red
lubricated.
illed.
Check
Looper-Three
Lower
and
or
three
knives.
is
included.
standard
and
differential feeds.
OILING
ed
from
machi
Oil
viscosity
cap
bulb
on
oil
daily
before the
Thread
Machine.
Knife~
attaching elastic
thread
stitch.
F or
tho
Seam
seam
ne
width
when
capacity
oil
of 200
in
top
lev
No
cover.
el
indicator
oiling
to
morning
Or
One
Looper-One
Differential
Automatic
to
girdles
Machine
se who
do
specification,
1/4
inch;
shipped~
of
Class
250
39500
seconds at
Oil level
should
is
nee
ssary,
start;
Feed~
Lubricating
and
can
be
not wish
503
or
stitch
so res
range~
ervoir
is
sia
100
is
checked
show
between
other than
add
oil
as required.
Spreader-
Trimming
System.
foundation
used
with
to
trim
505-SSa-1~
must
ounces.
8
to
or
the
30
be
A
Fahrenheit
at
sight
gauge
keeping
Drain
magnetic
a
entered
plug
screw
screw designed
the
crank
case.
is
located
to
accumulate
It
should
at
back
be
removed
of
machine
po
ssi
ble
and
near
foreign
clean
4
bottom edge
materials
ed pe
riodically.
of bas
which
e.
may
It
is
have
Page 5
IDENTIFYING
PARTS
Where
some
identification
appear.
OF
forwarded
directed.
number
The
blade
Collectively,
of
the
Part
IMPORTANT!
MACHINE
Prices
Each
numbers
A
Union
denotes
size
number,
measured
construction
smaller
letter
represent
ON
are
f.
o.
charge
FOR
the
WHICH
net
b.
shipping
Special
the
stamped
in
type
cash
thousandths
parts,
is
ALL
is
made
kind
permits,
stamped
ORDERS,
PART
and
point.
needle
of
on
number
and
the
subject
Parcel
to
cover
has
shank,
the
of
and
each
on
in
same
IS
both a type
part
those
to
distinguish
p3.rt,
PLEASE
ORDERED.
TERMS
to
change
Post
postage
NEEDLES
point,
needle
an
inch,
the
length,
size
is
stamped
where
regardless
INCLUDE
without
shipments
and
number
shank,
midway
number
with
construction
the
part
of
PART
notice.
are
insured
insurance.
and a size
groove,
denotes
between
finish
the
is
its
does
from
catalog
NAME
largest
the
the
part
number.
not
similar
in
AND
All
shipments
unless
number.
and
other
diameter
shank
complete
and
permit,
ones
which
STYLE
otherwise
The
details.
the
symbol.
On
an
.
they
are
type
of
eye.
Style
is
Type
single
027, 029, 032, 036,
To
sample
on
label.
Selection
Thread
formation.
Success
Union
Company,
to
the
Maximum
Genuine
parts
guarantee
39500
154
groove,
have
needle,
A
should
Special
its
most
efficiency
are
stamped
of
AR
GHS.
ball
needle
or
complete
of
the
pass
USE
in
the
Needles
subsidiaries
approved
needles
the
highest
uses a curved
It
has a round
point,
040.
orders
the
proper
freely
operation
and
are
with
struck
promptly
type
and
order
GENUINE
and
scientific
packaged with
would
needle
through
Repair
and
durability
the
quality
blade
shank,
groove,
size
read:
size
NEEDLES
of
these
Parts
authorized
principles,
are assured.
Union
Special
in
materials
needle.
round
and
number
"1000
should
needle
machines
as
distributors.
labels
The
point,
spotted,
accurately
should
Needles,
be
determined
eye
in
order
AND
furnished
marked
trade mark.
and
and
REPAIR
can
are
wo r
standard
curved
chromium
filled,
be
forwarded.
Type
to
PARTS
be
secured
by
the
They
made
~
Each
kmanship.
needle
blade,
plated,
an
empty
154
by
size
produce
Union
are
designed
with
trade
for this
standard
in
sizes 025,
packag
Use
description
GHS,
only with genuine
Special
utmost
•
of
a g
Ge
mark
thread
nui
Size
precision.
Style
length,
e, a
032".
used.
ood
stitch
Machine
according
ne
repair
is
your
5
Page 6
~Tensi
l'l]Tension
..W:.Tension
~
S
lot
on
N
ut
(]Thread
0Lower
IJ
Fabric
m
Presser
Gu
ide
Looper
Guard
Arm
Thre
Bracket
ad Ey
el
Needle
Presser
Thread
...
'
...
:.~·,
..
...
Cam
.:
~
Foot
Release
-----------·
---
-
--
( ::
....
.,...
__
...
_
Pull-o
ff
__
.:..,
.........
--
__
Bush
--
....
---
---
ing
--
Fig.
F
or
Type
1
503
Stitch
6
Page 7
r:JThread Eyelet
ttJTension
IJ!I
Tension
ft':IITension
~Slot
Nut
Post
Presser
Cone
Foot
---
Support
Release
---------·
---
Bush
ing
~]Thread
Bupper
I!JAuxiliary
DLower
DFabric
CJPresser
Gui<ie·----
Looper
Looper
Looper
Guard
Arm
Thread
Thread
Bracket
Thread
Needle
Thread
..
~
:.
.....
" • ' I '
..
-·' '
' ·
..,L
~
....
_
Cam
..:.
,
·'
...
Top
Needle
Pull-off
----
Needle
Cover
----
---
---
---
---
Thread Eyelet
Thread Eye
let
For
Fig.
Type
lA
505
Stitch
7
Upp r Looper
Page 8
CHANGING
NEEDLES,
ETC.
(Pages 5 and
6)
All instructions
are
the
same
following
lined
below
Fig.
tension
(Fig.
Use
lA)
posts
threading
as
those
exceptions.
with
page
3
(AC).
for
Type
with
regards
for
The
numbers
Only
diagrams
positions
It
sequence
and
needle
Before
wheel
release
bushing
Be
are
between
diagram
505
stitch.
to
Style
differences,
where
parts
(Fig. 1 and
for
clarity.
will
simplify thr
of
threading
third.
beginning
in
operating
pressure
(U);
and
sure
threads,
tension
(Fig.
1)
Changing
Needles,
39500 P covered
applicable
each
is
found
THREADING
involved
in
Fig.
1A).
eading
threading
this
lower
to
thread,
direction
on
presser
swing
for
Type
presser
as
they
discs
until
foot
come
(AD)
503
Thread
by
only
to
in
(Page
Parts
machine
looper
swing
by
arm
and
stitch,
Stand,
Catalog
Style
Catalog
39500
No.
6)
are
areplacedintheir
to
follow
first,
cloth
needle
turning
(H)
from
and
(N)
out
the
in
diagonal
use
upper
plate
presser
of
tension
Threading, etc.
No.
103 S with the
AR,
are
103
S.
shown
in
threading
recommended
looper
is
open,
at
high
turn
position,
foot
position.
thread
slots
threading
under-
relative
second,
hand-
release
guide,
(AE)
diagram
,
in
Double
(C,
Fig. 1 and
thread
looper
looper
Left
pull-o
thread
(K)
eye
Turn
left.
back
(E)
thread
Lead
to front,
from
pull-off ( T).
assembly
down
tube;
through
push
from front
CAUTION!
thread
wh
end
ff
is
all
of
TO
hand
thread
left
(M),
tube
to
en
ASSE
of
thread
Fig.
(T).
guide
the
lower
THREAD
wheel
then
to rig
lead
thread
dow
back.
Be s
pa
ssi
MB
TO
1A)
from
Lead
(G).
way
looper
until poi
through
through
ht.
Note:
After
thread
tube
n,
then
ure
upper
ng f
rom
LING
THREAD
and
lead
right
thread
Turn
to
the
can
UPPER
nt
auxiliary
both
LOWER
it
through
to lef
behind fabric guard
handwheel
left;
then, thread through
be
thread
LOOP
of
upper loop
loop
eyes
of lower l
thread must pa
pulling
under
assembly
insert
up upper looper thread
neck
(M).
thread
looper thre
tube assembly to
AND
ADJUS
LOOPER
both
t.
Note: thread
in
operating
ed e
asily
E R
(Pa
ge
(Page
eyes
if
6)
er ( L) is
er
thread eyel
ooper
ss in f
of
top cover
Pull
thr e
thr ough
ad
is under
upp
thread eye
ront
ad
out
upp
er
lower loop
er loop
TING SEWING P
6)
of
(F)
upper
must
and
looper
pass
through
direction
both
eyes
tweezers
all
the
way
et (D)
from
let
of
looper
tube
casting and
bottom
looper
of
ey
er
er
eye
ARTS (P
until
from
ar e
e
.
age
thread
in front
hole of
heel
left
in
F ig. 10
8)
of
of
to
left
eyelet
looper
frame
lower
right.
hand.
All
instructions perta
those for
The
dif
ferences,
with page
Style 39500 P covered
applicable only
numbers where each
ining to
is
the ad
by Catal
to
Style 395
found
justme
og N
nt of
o.
103 S with th
00
AR, are underli
in Catalog N
8
Sty
o.
le
103
39500
e f
S.
AR
are the sam e as
ollowi
ned on f
ng exceptions .
ollowin
g p
age
Page 9
SETTING
THE
NEEDLE
(Page
S)
With
When
plate
(Fig.
Remove
NOTE:
should
by
turning
from
by
left
pulling
shaft.
to
turn
the
condition
When
quickly
when
upper
throat
needle
is
3).
throat
SETTING
For
be
as
in
upper
end
of
upper
After
these
upper
shown
the
correct
as
follows:
looper
plate
at
high
Move
plate.
THE
St
le
Fig.
10.
looper
machine;
loop
changes
looper
in
As
eye
in
position,
position,
needle
UPPER
39500
Dimension
holder
dimension
er
holder
around
Fig.
setting
upper
centers
the
"Setting
Type
driving
LOOPER
AR
are
made,
its
9.
is
looper
upper
NOTE:
503
needle
needle
arm
should
point
(A,
(Page
the
dimensional
15 32
inch
counterclockwise
9/64
left,
shank
obtained,
is
on
the
loop
inch
out
of
it
may
slightly
it
moving
needle,
er
and
can
"Settin
the
Upper
Looper • when
stitch.
center
should
Fig.
3)
in
be
by
10) 4
sett
is
increased
lookin
is
increased
upper
be
to
needle
looper
necessary
to
maintain
be
checked
the
right,
the
eyes
should
the S reade
the
front
set
15/32
loosening
~
in
g
of
align
r "
will
making
end
of
needle-slot.
inch
above
clamp s rew
Fig.
exactly
be used
SA
(Fi
in
adjustments
throat
(B).
g.
11).
lace
of
or
Preliminary
holder
vertical
extend
Next,
its
travel·
extends
Fig.
9A
Setting:
should
(F
be
i • 8A).
set
about 5 64 inch
turn
handwheel unt
check settin so
about
5 32 i
to
To
above
nch
Insert
(B,
Fig.
spreader
Screw
shaft,
When
spreader
8A)
to
(C.
Fig.
and
allows
spreader
position spread
end
of s reader shank
holder (Fig.
il
spread
low
er oi
to left of n
SETTING
holds
be
pushed
8A)
is
er
is
eedle
spread
on
hold
er
at the r i
er sh
8A).
at left
nt
of s read
(F
(A.
in
collar
to
ank
ig.
THE
Fig.
er in
or
out
be
ght
about
should
end of
lOA).
SPREADER
SA)
in its
its
or
turned
holds
rotated
end
spreader
or
of
er
holder.
holder,
around
adjusted
its
stroke,
Fig.
an
d permits
its
holder
laterally.
spreader
lOA
Screw
shank.
in
the
9
I
Page 10
10
Page 11
The
parts
parts
that
illustrat
are used
ed
on
on
the
Style
preceding
39500
AR,
page
but
and
are
described
not
used
on
on
this
Style
page
39500
represent
P.
th
e
Those
to
parts
Styles
39500
Use Catalog
Ref.
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
39578
51292
51292
51292
39505
39540-18
39540-20
22894
39560
39526
39505
39556
39556
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
39501
39520
22738
39530
22768
39530
39597
39571
39572
39524
39580
22585
39582
39582
39582
39503
shown
AR
No.
Part
No.
BB
F-8
F-1
F-2
y
A
AA
p
E
K
90
AR
H
B
AR
c
A
AR-1/4.:
AA
G
GG
H
J
H
in
phantom
and
103 S
views
39500
for
P.
all
parts
Chip
Guard
Lower
Needle
Upper
Looper
Thread
Looper
Chaining
Differential
Main
Feed
Screw -Upper
Spreader
Differential
Main
Presser
Chain
Feed
Arm
Cutting
Screw -Chain
Cloth
Presser
Plate
Foot
Screw -Presser
Presser
Screw -Stitch
Presser
Presser
Upper
Upper
Throat
Throat
Latch
Side
Knife
Knife
Plate,
Plate
Screw
Cover--------------------------------------
Spring
Rivet
Front
Fabric
and
bearing
not
illustrated
no
reference
or
described
Description
-------------------------------------
Feed
Feed
Driving
Thread
Tension
Thread
Dog-------------------------------
Looper
Tension
Tension
Driving
Eccentric
or
Spring--------------
Spring
--------------------
Spring--------------
Eccentric
---------------
---------------------
Spreader----------------
--------------------------------------Feed
Dog,
Dog,
marked
-----------------------------------
Knife,
Cutting
marked
"J
marked
Knife
"AA"
11
----------------------
11 J11
------------------
----------------------
-------------------------------------
----------------------------------F
oot
Chain
Foot
Foot
Foot Sti
Clamp
Cha
in
Shield
Ton
gue
and
Hin
ge
Spring--------------------
tch
Tongu
Stud--------------------------
Hold r Block ------------------------
mark
and
- S "de
ed 11BC-1/4
Lower
Cov
Knife
er
------------------------
Shield-------------
--------------------
Spring
e,
marked 11EN
11
------------------
Support
--------------------------------------
-------
-
----------------------------
Guide------------------------------
numbers
here.
--------------
--------------
11
Brack
are
------
t------
common
Amt.
Req.
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1 .
1
1
1
1
-
--
2
1
11
Page 12
,..o
..
..
'
Cl
WORLD'S
,..tlf
FIIEST
QUALITY
*
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
MACHINES
UNION
SPECIAL
maintains sales
facilities throughout the world. These offices
aid
you
in
the selection of the right sewing
equipment for your particular operation. Union
and
Special representatives
tory trained
promptly
tion, there
and
is
serve you. Check with
ATLANTA, GA.
BOSTON, MASS.
CHICAGO,
DALLAS, TEXAS
LOS ANGELES,
NEW
PHILADELPHIA, PA.
YORK,
ILL.
N.
CAL.
Y.
and
are
efficiently. Whatever your loca-
a Union Special Representative to
service men
able
to serve your needs
him
today.
MONTREAL,
BRUSSELS, BELGIUM
LEICESTER,
LONDON,
PARIS, FRANCE
STUnGART,
and
service
are
QUEBEC
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
GERMANY
will
fac-
4 0 4
Representatives
industrial
MACHINE
N. F RANK
and
cities
L I N
distributors
throughout
COMPANY
ST.,
CHIC
In
the
all
Important
world.
A G 0 1
0,
1L L •
. .
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