Union Special 39500A, 39500B, 39500P, 39500AF User Manual
®
I
NDUSTRIAL
SE WI N G
OUAUT
•
ST
YLE
S
39
500
39
500
8
39500P
39500AF
Y
~
LEWIS
•
COLUMBIA
MACHINES
CATALOG
No.
10
35
SECOND
EDITION
H
IGH
CL
ASS
39500
STREAMLINED
SPEED
OVERSEAMERS
-
~
.
;,·
.
CHICA
G O
Catalog
INSTRUCTIONS
No.
FOR
103
S
ADJUSTING
The
furnished
39500
39500
parts
at
LIST
CLASS
A
B
listed
list
Second
AND
OF
Styles
in
prices
Edition
OPERATING
PARTS
39500
39500
39
500
this
catalog
for
p
AF
repairs
are
only.
•
"__._
..
_
Union
Rights
MAC
Copyright
Special
Reserved
HINE
INDUSTRIAL
CHI CA
Printed
1957,
by
Machine
in
COMP
SEWING
in
2
1960
All
AN
MACHINES
GO
U.S. A.
Countries
Co
Y
.
March,
1964
FOREWORD
The
streamlin
performance
Class 395
ed s
tyli
00
ng.
are characteristics
machine is
automatic
precision methods insuring
It
is
enable
Specials.
nd
illustrat
a
Union Sp
anxious
our consta
the
cus
The following
e a
ecia
to
cooper ate
nt
aim
tom
er
to
secure
nd describe the
l r epresentativ
with
complete
to
furnish
pages
you
to plan
lubr
of the
all
possible
contain
parts
es
will
Union
ica
int
ca
Special's
tion,
se
machines.
er change
refully
and light
prepared
advantage
valuable operating
for
Style
be found
and
s in
in all
estim ate r equir em
~
latest ove
ability.
s
Cla
ss
m anufa
redger.
running hi
All
part
s a
information
from the use
an
d a
djusti
39500
.
cturing
ents.
MACHI
gh
re
NEC
Ne
s peed
made
that
of
by
will
Union
ng data,
centers,
OMPA
NY
w
3
Engineerin
g Department ·
IDENTIFICATION
OF
MACHINES
Each
plate
Standard
the
letter"
letter
is
suffixed
Styles
number,
This
herein.
Class
back,
Operating
Single
chine.
Knife,
39500
Union
on
the
Style
Z".
"Z" . When
to
of
which
catalog
lt
can
39500.
etc.,
direction
Curved
Differential
Automatic
A
For
fabrics
nation
slips,
seams
seam
main
has
pajamas,
are a primary
widths,
and
39500 B For
fabrics
nation
has
shirts,
Seam
stitch
specification,
range,
39500 P For
fabrics
underwear
seam
width,
differential
39500
AF
Same
seaming
rayon
and
widths,
and
differential
Special
machine.
numbers
Example:
only
the
standard
machines
contains
applies
also
All
references
are
taken
Blade
Lubricating
seaming
of
cotton,
been
3/32
differential
seaming
of
cotton,
been
panties,
8-30
seaming
made
and
from
similar
1/8
feeds.
as
all
types
silk
3/32
and
carries
Style
numbers
have
"Style
minor
Style
similar
no
letters.
APPLICATION
specifically
be
applied
from
of
the
handwheel
STYLES
Needle,
Feed,
silk,
Trimming
light
or
and
designed
nightgowns,
requisite.
and
1/8
feeds.
light
silk,
designed
infants'
and
or
for
and
504-SSa-1;
per
inch;
medium
cotton
garments.
inch;
39500
fabrics.
1/8
and
stitch
P,
weights
Seam
inch;
feeds.
a
Style
one
or
more
39500
changes
number.
in
construction
Example:
to
with
to
discretion
directions,
operator's
is
away
OF
Two
Looper,
System.
medium
similar
especially
or
similar
Seam
inch;
stitch
medium
similar
general
children's
standard
cam
to
heavy
and
wool,
Seam
range,
except
fitted
of
specification,
stitch
range,
number
are
classified
letters
A".
Special
are
made
Example:
OF
CATALOG
the
standard
such
position
from
MACIDNES
Three
Mechanism
weight
weight
for
use
synthetics.
articles
specification,
range,
weight
weight
synthetics.
purpose
knit
seam
adjusted
weight
used
specification,
8-20
per
with
flat,
warp
8-20
which
is
stamped
as sta
ndard
suffixed,
Style
numbers
in a standard
are
"Class
Styles
to
some
as
while
"Style
grouped
right
39500
39500".
of
machines
special
and
seat
ed
operator.
Thread,
with
flat,
Overseaming
Spring Pressed
warp, and
The
on
women's
where
long
504-SSa-1;
8-30
flat,
per
warp,
inch;
The
seaming
wear,
widths,
main
flat,
on
snow
of
and
and
differential
warp,
suits,
similar
3/32
504-SSa-1,
inch;
cam
adjusted
39500 B sewing
and
ribbed
504-SSa-1;
per
inch;
cam
and
but
never
machine,
under
m'}ChineS
left,·
at
the
sewing
and
straight
cam
and
sewing
"T''
shirts,
and
and
sweat
parts.
knit
cotton,
standard
adjusted
in
the
special.
contain
contain
a
AZ".
a
Class
as
listed
front
machine.
Lower
ribbed
combi-
children's
hanging
standard
adjusted
ribbed
combi-
garments.
1/8
feeds.
ribbed
shirts,
standard
main
seam
name
the
11 Z 11
in
and
Ma-
knit
knit
polo
inch;
knit
and
For
wool
main
OILING
CAUTION!
must
be
ounges.
100
Fahrenheit
Ma
at
sight
between
filled
A
chine
gauge
gauge
Oil
before
straight
should
is
filled
on
front
lines.
was
drained
beginning
mineral
be
with
of
machine.
oil
used.
oil
from
to
operate.
of a Saybolt
at
spring
Red
4
machine
Oil
viscosity
cap
in
bulb
on
capacity
top
oil
when
cover.
level
shipped,
of
of
200
Oil
indicator
Class
to
250
level
so
reserv.o
39500
seconds
is
should
1r
is
six
at
checked
show
OILING
(Continued)
Machine
keeping
oil
as
main
required.
Drain
It
is a magnetic
may
have
cally.
Each
denotes
size
Union
the
number,
measured
tively,
the
label
type
of
39500
standard
length,
needle
single groove,
chromium
is
automatically
reservoir
plug
screw
screw
entered
Special
kind
stamped
in
thousandths
and
size
all
needles
A,
39500
for
plated
the
of
these
in
filled.
is
located
designed
crank
needle
shank,
on
point,
the
of
number
packaged
B,
39500 P and
styles
shallow
sizes
022,
lubricated.
Check
at
back
to
accumulate
case.
It
NEEDLES
has
both
length,
needle
an
inch,
shank,
representthe
and
39500
is
Type
spot,
025,
027, 029,
No
oil
daily
of
machine
should
type
and size
groove,
midway
complete
sold
by
AF
154GAS.
long
oiling
is
before
near
possible
be
removed
number.
finish
denotes
largest
between
symbol
Union
Special.
use a curved
It
is a curved
tapered
032,
036,
necessary,
the
morning
bottom
foreign
and
and
other
diameter
shank
and
blade
point,
040,
edge
materials
cleaned
Th
e t
details.
eye.
which
needle.
blade,
struck
044.
other
start;
of
periodi-
ype
number
of
Collec-
is
given
standard
groove,
than
add
base.
which
The
blade,
on
The
To
have
a
sample
scription
Size
036".
needle,
on
Selection
should
pass
tion.
Success
use
of
needles
by a reputation
manship
for
Release
(U,
ating
socket
about
·
draw
Fig.
1)
and
direction
wrench
1/4
turn.
needle.
needle
label.
of
freely
in
the
orders
or
A
proper
through
operation
the
complete
packaged
for
producing
more
than
pressure
swing presser
until
No.
needle
21388
Again
type
needle
under
three
on
presser
AS,
turn
promptly
and
size
order
size
is
determined
needle
of
eye
Union
our
brand
highest
-quarters
CHANGING
foot
arm
(H)
is
at
its
furnished
handwheel
and
accurately
number
would
Special
in
read:
order
machines
name,
quality
of a century.
NEEDLES
by
turning
out
of
position.
lowest
with
until
point
machine,
needle
filled,
should
"1000
by
to
produce a good
size
be
forwarded.
Needles,
of
thread
can
~
needles
presser
in
materials
foot
Turn
of
travel.
loosen
is
at
high
an
empty
Type
used.
stitch
be
secured
which
release
handwheel
Using
needle
position;
package,
Use
de-
154GAS,
Thread
forma-
only
by
is
backed
and
work-
bushin
in
operhexagonal
clamp
nut
with-
g
To
to
the
needle
travel;
foot
release
replace
left,
in
this
then tig
needle,
insert
position,
hten
bushing
leave
needle
turn
nut.
(U).
needle
in
holder
handwheel
Return
holder
until
presser
it
until
arm
at
high
rests
holder
(H)
against
is
to
5
position
again
position;
and,
stop
at
re-lock
its
with
pin.
low
the
flat
Keeping
point
of
presser
THREAD
STAND
Afterthread
throu
is
right
gh
back
thread eyele
threaded thr ough
hand
hol
tension dis cs
Only parts i n
Pa
rt s are
It
threading low
placed
will simplify
er
Before beg
at
ing dir e c
foot
by
of
positio
tion
turning presser
n .
Be sure threads,
tension
dis
cs (AD)
Double end
eye
let (E, Fig.
thread
of
heel
pull-o
frame
of
looper
lower
ff
looper
from left to r ig
are in
left
hand.
com
es from
each
e a
nd
up
(AD),
volved
in
their
threading thi
looper firs
inning
unt
il
needle
to
as
and
of
thread
1)
from rig
(T). Lead
thread gui
(K)
ht.
Left
cone on thread s
throu
throu
t, then
pair
gh slot
of
gh l e
down throu
hol
es
in
ft hand
hol
(AE),
THREADI
in
thread
relative pos
ing are shown
ition
s m a chine to
t,
upper
thread,
loop
er second,
swing cloth pla
(N) i s at high position, re
foot
r el
ease bu
t hey
in
TO
come
diagonal
THREAD
and
lead
ht
to
left. Note:th
thread behind
de
(G).
is
all
the
eye
of
low
s hing (U); a
from
slots
LOWER
it
throu
fabric guard
Turn
way
er
handwheel
to the
loop
the
(AE)
e r
tand
(V,
Fig.
1),
it
is
gh
front thre
ten
sion thread guide
ad
eyelet (W) .
wire (A),
e . Then thread continues
and on
throu
gh
thread
NG
in
thr
eading diagr am (Fig. 1).
s f
or clarity
follow
.
recommend
ed seq
and needle third.
te open
tension
in
, t
lea
nd swi
thread guid
tens
ion
urn handwheel
se pressure
ng p
resser
e, a r e betwe
posts (AC).
LOOPER
gh
both eyes o f
r ea d
must
(F) and
in ope
left; th
can
be
en thr e
thread
low
er
looper
pass
in front of
throu
gh
rating direction
ad
throu
ed eas
ily
brought
Next it
down
between
guide
(B).
uence
in ope
on presser
arm
(H)
thread
looper
both
hole
unt
gh
both eye s
if
tweezers
up
of
r-
out
en
s
il
Turn
thre
ad
throu
through
bo
threadmu
loop
er
thread
and
down throu
ush
tube down, then
p
CAUTIO
pass ing
fr
T ur n ha
highest pos
eedle
n
hol
knurl
to secu
thread eyele
e in
top cov
T
he amou
ed tens
re
handwheel
gh
auxiliary
t h e
yes
of
s t pass
N !
om
ndw
tube
gh
Be
tube
heel
in
front
assembly
thread
sure
assembly
in oper
ition. Inser
t (R) ,
er needle thread
nt
of tensi
ion
nut
s (AA, Fig.
prop
er s
titch
TO
THREAD
until
point
loop
upper loop
of
loop
e r
UPPER
of
upper loop
thread
er
thread
er
thread
(M), lead thread
tube
as s em b
insert
thread
throu
upperlooperthr
to
upper loop
TO
THREAD
ati
ng dir
ecti
t needle thread from
under neck of
eyelet
THRE
on
on needle and
form
ation.
AD
1).
Tension on
LOOPER
er
(L)
is
all the way le
eye
let (D)
eye
let
pull-off
(C)
(T).
from
from
under neck
ly
(M). Pull
gh
upp
ea
d is
er ey
THE NE
on unt
r ig
top
cover cas
(P).
Thread
er
E D
il needle
thread
looper
ey
underlowerlooper
e.
LE
ht
to
left,
tin
ne
edle from
TENSION
looper threads is reg
threads
back
left
Aft
er
of top cov
out bottom
e f
rom front
(N, Fig
throu
g; th
en
should
ft. Lea
to
fron
to right .
pulling up
er cas
of
to
th
r e
adwh
.
1)
is
gh
both eye s of
down
throu
front.
ulated
be
by
only
d
t, then
Not
e:
upp
e r
tin
g
tub
e;
bac
k.
en
at
its
gh
thr
ee
enou
gh
6
~T
e nsion
Nul
rJiT,·nqon
IJ:I
T.,.,, ,
:;; )
Ten.,io
1!1
Thr e a d Gu 1
B U
pp
e r Loope
Posl
on
o!
n Th read
oe
r Thread E)·ele t
--
-
---
Pu
--
ll-
--
a
Thread
Presser Fool
---
....
,..
...
~
r·
"
"'-
Cam Pu
_..;
\
....
....
'
, _
ff
" ,-··
R~lea~~
-------------
--
Bushinl
----
-
--
,.
...
...
ll-off
...
...
____
---
..
,
--
--
-
......
--
-
I!JAuxil
D Loll
IJ F
B
iary
f'
r Looper T
abr
ic Guard Bracke
Fra
me
Lo opPr
Looper Th
hrea
read Eye
d Ey
elet
t
l e
Fi g. 1
7
~ eedle
Lp
pPr
Thread Fyel
l.oo
pn
~
_.,.
J,. \
et
___
.....
PRESSER
FOOT
PRESSURE
Sufficient
maintained.
amount
and
hand
of
turn
thread
decreases
been
resting
under
the
locking
properly
on
surface
top
surface
nut
Feed
mately
12
eccentric
Minor
numbers
obtainable
shipped
with
pressure
Should
pressure
adjusting
so
pressure.
set,
throat
is
of
(C) •
eccentrics
stitches
is
No.
when
using
above
to
feed
it
be
necessary
on
presser
screw
(B).
tightening
When
tighten
plate,
pressure
lock
position
approximately
adjusting
used
per
39540-12
of
the
inch.
part
that
in
while
eccentric.
combination
Generally
determines
eccentric
of
material
work
foot,
loosen
Adjusting
increases
nut
locking
1/32
screw
(B).
FEED
these
machines
It
will
that
symbol
of
eccentrics.
speaking,
number
is
selected
being
uniformly
to
increase
lock
screw
pressure,
adjusting
(A).
With
nut
inch
to
1/16
Set
cap
ECCENTRICS
have
be
noted
of
differential
indicate
Unless
differential
of
stitches
in
relation
sewn,
or
should
or
decrease
nut
(A,
Fig.
has a right
loosening
screw
presser
(C)
so
inch
(D)
been
that
(B)
has
foot
that
from
against
selected
the
feed
eccentric
approximately
otherwise
(right
produced;
to
degree
type
of
operation.
be
2)
its
to
part
number
the
specified,
hand)
main
and
Fig.
produce
of
is
No.
number
machine
feed
(left
direction
2
approxi-
main
feed
39540-10.
of
stitches
will
eccentric
hand)
of
feed
stretch
be
Fig.
With
in
the
front
position,
throat
(A,
Fig.
throat
If
needle
looper
thread
off
screw,
driving
3
throat
end
needle
plate
3)
by
plate.
thread
pull-off
arm.
SETTING
plate
of
needle
point
(Fig.
loosening
thread
pull-off
back.
be
sure
Following
No.
3954022, 24, 26,
supplied
with
separately.
number
11
39540-12
suffixed
ASSEMBLING
Before
guard,
chip
assembly,
THE
in
position,
NEEDLE
slot.
should
3).
Move
clamp
cam
pull-off
(B).
separate
When
to
retightening
take
stitch
4,
5,
6,
28,
30,
each
machine.
To
order
11
to
•
assembling
guard,
then
follow
needle
Whenneedle
be
set
1/2
needle
screw
(A,
Fig.
by
up
end
play
number
7,
8,
32,
an
indicate
AND
sewing
upper
this
should
is
inch
driving
(B).
4)
overlaps
moving
looper
in
feed
9,
10,
34,
36,
Additional
eccentric,
number
ADJUSTING
parts,
knife
suggested
center
at
high
above
arm
Remove
looper
pull-
needle
eccentrics
11,
12,
40.
Only
eccentrics
use
No.
of
stitches
SEWING
remove
assembly,
sequence:
13,
are
available
14,
two
eccentrics
may
39540
desired.
PARTS
cloth
lower
Fig.
under
15,
16,
18,
be
ordered
with a minor
Example:
plate,
knife
fabric
holder
4
20,
are
8
SETTING
THE
NEEDLE
(Continued)
Fi
g. 5
At this
se
rt
low
ig
. 6) i
F
W
ith
low
left e
nd
loop
s et
inch from
needl
l
21225-1/8.
ha
fl
Tighten nut
si
movement
to deflect needle
is used
no interference betw
looper.
e (Fig. 6), using
oo
per
ve
low
e c
tin
N
ow
Set r ea r need
bl
e,
without
poin
t, i
er l
ooper
nto
er
loop
of its s t r oke,
e r
po
center
g a u
Do
e r l
oop
g
needl
.
as
s e m b 1 e differential (fro n
SE
TT
ING
of
to
s et
(A,
bar (B).
er
int 1
ge No.
no
er de -
THE
le gua
int
erfe
low
er
for ward-. 002-
rear
n-
at
/8
of
t
e .
REAR
rd
r ing w
knife
n edle guard.
een rear needle
NEEDLE
(A, F ig . 5)
ith eith
hold
er,
Fi
g . 6
t) feed do
GUARD
as
high
er low
but still
. 00 4 inc
Mak
er loop
in positi
h. Scre
e s u
re ther e i s
guard and lower
as
g .
pos -
er
or
on
w (B)
Now fini
mov
es
scar
f (A, Fig. 7)
ear guard
r
Assembl
loop
e r
uard
g
Screw
After
tween
as
this
needl
SETTING
s h
low
to
the rig
SETTI
is spr inging needle o
clo
(D)
is used
setting mak
ht, its
surface
NG
e f
ront
se
as pos
e g
uards and dif
THE
e r
looper adjustm
point should
until
the
another . 002
THE
FRONT
needle g
sible
to adj us t
e s
ure
Insert upper looper
(B, Fi
it
upper
r e
looper holder in the s h
s o th
(Fig.
to
ady
g.
be
loop
in
at
8).
LOWER
need
le s pr in
NEEDLE
uard
ff
ferential
push
the s h
(C, Fig. 5).
back guard,
to needle
and set
ther
e is
SETTING
8)
holds upp r loop
ed in
er holder
place
ank
LOOPER
ent . As
be se t into the
- .
004
front
no
fe
ed dogs
or
. S
cre
extends 1/16 to
low
gs
forward
inc
h.
GUARD
set
without
needle gua
interfere
THE
(A, Fig. 8) in it s
out o r t ur n
into upper loop
w (
C,
aft.
er
loop
er
needle
fro
m
When
front needle
Fig. 8) on
L ocate upp
touch
nce
.
UPPER
er
low
e r
ing.
r d .
be-
in its h
ed aro
er shaft,
3/ 32 inch beyo
LOOP
und
clam
er loop
E R
old
er , a
its
p holds the up
er
Fi
g. 7
hold
er . Sc
nd permits
shank. Ins
if
it
is not a
in i
ts holder
nd holder
rew
ert
l-
per
Wh
Fi
g . 8
en the upper loop
upper loop
ha
nk
s
back of vertical
er holder shoul
9
er is
d be s
on 395
at the right en
00
d of its str oke ,
et
to position upper
A a nd B (F
ig.
8).
loop
er
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