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USA Distributor
Twisted Hobbys
www.twistedhobbys.com
ZORRO
A FLYING WING SUITABLE FOR FPV
MOTOR: 1x 24-26g/1450kV Outrunner
ESC: 1x 10-12 amp
SERVOS: 2x 9-10g
PROP: EP 8040
BATTERY: 450-850mAh
RADIO: 3 ch w/elevon mixing
WINGSPAN: 35-1/2”
LENGTH: 19-5/8”
AUW: 240g/8.46oz (w/850-3s)
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SAFETY NOTES
Before assembling and flying this model, read carefully any instructions and warnings of other
manufacturers for all the products you installed or used on your model, especially radio
equipment and power source.
Check thoroughly before every flight that the airplanes’ components are in good shape and
functioning properly. If you find a fault do not fly the model until you have corrected the
problem.
Radio interference caused by unknown sources can occur at any time without notice. In such a
case, your model will be uncontrollable and completely unpredictable. Make sure to perform a
range check before every flight. If you detect a control problem or interference during a flight,
immediately land the model to prevent a potential accident.
Youngsters should only be allowed to assemble and fly these models under the instruction and
supervision of an experienced adult.
Do not operate this model in a confined area.
Do not stand in line with, or in front of a spinning propeller and never touch it with any object.
IMPORTANT: PRIOR TO ANY ASSEMBLY
Please Note: after removing kit from shipping box, lay each piece flat on a
hard surface, this will allow the airframe to straighten out if lightly bent
from shipping. Do not worry since EPP is very pliable and can be bent back
if out of shape.
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TWISTED HOBBYS
Website: www.twistedhobbys.com – email: sales@twistedhobbys.com
Thank you for your purchasing a Twisted Hobbys‘ model. Please read through the entire manual before beginning to
build this model. If you have any questions please contact us at the above indicated email address.
WARNING INFORMATION
This R/C Aircraft is not a toy! Read and understand the entire manual before assembly. If misused, it c an cause serious bodily harm and
property damage. Fly only in open areas, and AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approve d flying sites. Do not over look the warnings
and instructions enclosed or those provided by other manufactures’ products. If you are not an experienced pilot and airplane modeler you
must use the help of an experienced pilot or an authorized flight instructor for the building and flying of this model aircraft.
These instructions are suggestions only on how to assemble this model. There are other ways and methods to d o so. Twisted Hobbys has
no c ontrol over the final assembly, the materials and accessories used when assembling this kit, or the m anner in which the assembled
model, installed radio gear and electronic p arts are used and maintained. Thus, no liability is assumed or accepted for any d amage
resulting from the use of th e assemb led model aircraft or from this instruction manual including but not limited to direct, indirect,
incidental, special, and consequential damages. By the act of using this user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. In
no event shall Twisted Hobbys’ liability exceed the original purchase price of the kit.
SHIPPING DAMAGE
Twisted Hobbys checks each plane before shipping to ensure that each kit is in fine condition. We have no bearing on the condition of any
component parts damaged by use, modification, or assembly of the mod el. Inspect the components of this kit upon receipt. If you find any
parts damaged or missing, contact Twis ted Hobbys immediately. We will not accept the return or replacement of parts on which assembly
work has already begun. Twis ted Hobbys reserves the right to change this warranty at anytime without notice.
OUR MISSION
To provide the best products and service to our customers at the lowest prices pos sible. We take great pride in
our company, our commitment to customer service and in the products we sell. Our online store is designed
to provide you with a safe and secure environment to browse our product catalog.
Thank you for shopping with Twisted Hobbys!
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kit contents
HARDWARE KIT DETAIL
Double check that you have all the
above pictured items. There are two
extra snap links included and the use
of the shrink tubing is optional. If any
of the airframe or hardware items are
missing, contact Twisted Hobbys
before starting your build
MAIN AIRFRAME COMPONENTS AND KITS
Double check that you have all the
above pictured items. The Carbon
Bundle includes tail push rods and
wing spars. Also pictured above is
the bag with all the small hardware
items, see the detail to the right for
items in should contain.
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TOOL AND ADHESIVES NEEDED
Tools shown and listed are suggestions only.
Depending on your building technique you may not
need everything indicated – and/or – you may find that
other tools available to yourself may be of benefit to
your Build.
It is also recommended that you have a flat building
surface, one that will accept stick pins and push pins.
An Acrostic Ceiling panel from your local hardware
store fits this bill nicely, and will lay flat on your work
table. Over size / long push pins are available at your
local craft store. These two items are by no means
required, but will aid in the building process, and can
be used for future projects
Lighter
Small Drill Bits
Tape Measure and Ruler
Black Sewing Thread
Welders Glue
Hobby Knife w/new Blade
Needle Nose Pliers
Wire Cutters
Low Temp Hot Glue Gun
Course Sand Paper
Scissors
Small Phillips Screw Driver
Thin and Medium CA
CA Applicator Tips
Activator
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the build
CONSTRUCTION METHODS:
Building surface should be at least 2ft x 4ft and at. Weights or some small heavy objects will be handy for holding things in place
during the time glue is setting.
Welders glue is used for FOAM TO FOAM joints. Thin and Medium CA are used on the PLASTIC TO FOAM and CARBON TO FOAM
joints. When using the Welders glue for a butt joint, apply a thin lm to each surface, allow to sit for approx ve minutes and
then assemble. Note that this method will create a nearly instant bond, so locate carefully when bringing the two pieces together. If
alignment is necessary or a slip joint, do not allow the glue to tack up, simple apply and join immediately, you will have several
minutes to locate the two parts before the glue sets up. In most cases the parts being glued can be handled with care in 30 minutes,
full cure is approx 24 hours.
You will need the electronics as listed on the cover page.
Now is a good time to test everything. Create a Model Prole
on your radio, hook everything up and test for proper
operation of all items. See the Twisted Hobbys’ website for
pre-packaged power combos.
Carefully fold back the two control surfaces and weigh them
down as shown. If they seem stiff, just go slowly and work it
a little back and forth until you can double them back like
pictured. Let them sit for about an hour, this will loosen up
the hinge and result in less stress on the servos.
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With the bottom surface faceing up,
test t how the two halves meet up, it
will be important during the gluing
process that the trailing edge part of
the wing be ush with the table.
The above picture shows that with a
little pressure the trailing edge sits
ush on the work surface.
While applying a little pressure as
previously described continue test
tting and observe how all the areas
come together.
Let the glue tack up for about 5
minutes.
... Beacon Foam-Tac also works very
well and can be used as an alternative.
Once you are happy with the test tting
apply a medium skim coat to the
mating surfaces of each wing half.
Welders will be used through out this
manaul but....
flush
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Once the glue has tacked up, the halves
can be joined. Some weights will be
used to ensure the trailing edges
remain ush with the work surface
during the mating process.
Carefully and Slowly slide the two
pieces together while paying close
attention to line up the features of each
half.
Once contact has been made, apply
some pressure to so that the surfaces
come into complete contact with one
another.
Once the glue has tacked up the two
pieces can be joined. Make sure the
bottom of the wing is facing up and that
the trailing edge if ush with the work
surface.
Let the glue tack up for approx 5
minutes.
Next the rear center section will be
added, again with the trailing edges
ush to the work table. Apply a
medium skim coat to the mating
surfaces.
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Center triangle piece with the notches
cut into the trailing edge.
With a long straight edge, prepare to
cut a 1/8” deep slit for the bottom main
spar. The slit should be approx 1/8” in
front of the notches for the Fins.
With a sharp blade cut the slit, make
sure and hold the knife perpendicular
to the straight edge, only go 1/8” deep,
and long enough to receive the long
(main) spar.
Secure the spar with thin CA...Press the full length of the spar into the
slit, but just deep enough so that the
spar is ush to just below ush, as
pictured above.
Wipe the spar down with alochol to
remove any mfg residue, then work it
into the slit that was just cut.
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... and hit with kicker. Flip the wing over and repeat the
process for the top main spar, also 1/8”
in front of the holes for the Fins.
As with the bottom, cut a 1/8” deep slit
to accept the spar.
BEFORE gluing ip the wing over and
check that it is still at along the
trailing edges, if not tweak it slightly so
that it is.
Make sure it is ush to below ush like
was done on the bottom spar.
Clean the spar with aolchol and press
into the slot using your hands and
ngers to push against and not the
work surface. This prevents the wing
from getting distorted.
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Once satised that the trailing edges
are ush with the work surface,
carefully ip back to the top surface
and apply CA.
Once CA has been applied the full
length of the spar, hit it with kicker.
The short front bottom spar is next,
clean with alcohol, cut a 1/8” deep slit
long enough for the spar and at approx
4-1/2” in front of the main spar.
... and cure with kicker.Apply thin CA the full length of the
spar...
Press the spar into the slot, and again
just deep enough to be ush to slightly
below ush.
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Flip the wing over and locate the top
front spar in the same manner;
centered and approx 4-1/2” in front of
the top main spar.
Wipe the spar with alcohol and press
into the slot with your nger tips so
that it is ush to just below ush.
Apply thin CA the full length of the
spar...
Once the program is created, and again
if not having done so yet, test all the
electronics. This is important to do
BEFORE anything is installed.
If you have not already done so, create
a model in your transmitter. Aircraft
type as shown above is the one to use
for the DX9.
... and cure with kicker.
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With the servo electronically centered,
attach the horn as shown. Do the same
with the other servo, just make it an
opposite hand conguration.
If using the recommended size servos,
the cut out should be close to the right
size, slits for the servo ears will need to
be added though.
Adjust the size of the cut out if
necessary and create two slits in the
correct location to receive the servo
ears.
Using a straight edge, cut a slit just
deep enough to accept the servo wires.
The slit you cut should run directly
from the servo to the receiver bay as
shown.
Repeat for the other side.
Tuck the servo into the hole. Note - no
glue at this time. That will be done in a
later step.
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Repeat for the other side. Now with some Low Temp hot glue, add
a small bead of glue around the
perimeter of the servo where it meets
the cutout in the foam. Do this for both
servos.
Locate the control surface horns and
separate them from each other.
Once you are happy with the t, remove
the horn, and with the nozzle of the
Welder’s tube, force some glue into the
slit.
Test t the horn into the slit. Note that
edge of the horn should be ush with
the under side of the control surface
and the hole in the horn should be
directly above the hinge line.
Locate the slit in the control surface for
the horn by using a straight edge and
small builders square. The slit should
be in line with the servo horn and
perpendicular to the main spar.
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Also apply a skim coat of glue to the
area of the horn that will be embedded.
Install the horn as per the t up you
just did, wipe away any extra glue and
repeat the whole process for the other
side.
Next we build the control rods. Locate
the rods and the brass threaded ends.
Repeat the process for the other control
rod.
Apply a drop of thin CA at the opening
of the threaded rod and allow it wick
inside the opening. Hit with kicker.
Make sure the threaded end slides over
the control rod and fully engages.
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Locate two of the plastic clevis ends. Screw the clevis onto the brass
threaded end... leave about 1/8” of the
threads exposed.
Next, determine how much to cut off by
measuring from the hole of the servo to
the hole in the horn. Make sure both
are centered. Your Build may be
slightly longer or shorter
Using one of the small brass pins,
attach the rigid clevis end of the control
rod to the control surface. Install from
the side with the larger hole and fully
seat the pin with needle nose pliers.
After trimming the rod, double check
the length and then secure the clevis to
the rod with medium CA or Epoxy.
Repeat the process for the second
control rod.
In this case, it will be necessary to
remove about 1/8” from the length.
Ideally the rod extends into the hole of
the clevis to the end of the solid
portion.
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Before hooking up the other end of the
rod to the servo arm, lay the trailing
edge at on the bench and adjust the
clevis on the brass end to match with
the outer most hole in the servo arm.
Once the clevis is adjusted, install the
small brass pin, and like with the other
end, the pin installs from the side of the
clevis with the larger hole. Seat the pin
with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Repeat for the other side.
Apply a matching medium skim coat to
the narrower of the motor mount tabs.
Let both pieces tack up for about 5
minutes.
Apply a medium skim coat of Welders
to the mating area, located directly in
the center of the trailing edge. There is
notch in the foam to help with location.
Locate the wooden motor mount as
shown. Note that it may be laser
engraved on one side, but it does not
matter which way it installs.
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Once the Welders it tacked up, attach
the motor mount as shown.
Next is the small fuselage pieces. Split
them at the thin area.
Then trim away any of the extra
material so that the backs are ush as
shown.
.... and let the glue tack up for about 5
minutes.
Once happy with the t up, apply a
skim coat of Welders to the mating
surfaces....
Test t the bottom piece to make sure it
ts ush to the motor mount.
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Once the glue is tack up, and starting
from the motor mount surface, press
the black piece against the motor
mount....
.... and then working towards the nose,
join the rest of it to the wing keeping it
all centered as shown.
There will be a little extra, that can now
be trimmed away.
As with the lower piece, make sure and
get the upper piece installed right down
the center as shown above.
Once the Welders has tacked up. Join
the two pieces together.
Flip the wing over and test t the
smaller upper black piece to the motor
mount as was done with the lower piece
and apply a skim coat of Welders to the
mating surfaces.
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Next, locate the motor, ESC and motor
mounting hardware. Decide where you
want to locate the ESC, ie, top, bottom,
left or right. In this build bottom left
will be the location.
Mount the motor and attach the ESC
with some low temp hot glue or velcro.
This is also a good time to plug in the
servo wires and mount the receiver.
Test the t of the latch plate and note
that the top and bottom surfaces
should be ush with the upper and
lower wing surfaces, but still allow
access to the area with the cut out.
Battery compartment latch and cover is
next. Locate the items pictured above.
Tuck all the wires away into the
provided foam pocket.
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Once happy with t up, apply some
Welders to the mating surfaces and
install the piece while the glue is still
wet.
Check for alignment and position. As
shown above, surfaces should be ush
and access to the slot should not be
blocked.
Put a skim coat of glue on the plastic
nut, and a little glue on the sides of the
hex cutout where you can reach with
the nozzle. Note... just a small amount
of glue is all it needs.
There is more of a curve to the shape of
the cut on the top side as comparted to
the bottom side. These cuts are to
match the prole of the wing core at the
position they are installed.
Fins are next. Note that the inner ns
are not symmetrical from top to bottom.
Press the nut so that it is just ush
with the wing surface and wipe away
any extra glue.
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Test t the inner n so that you can see
how it engages the notched areas of the
wing, then remove and add a small
bead of welders to the area of the wing
were the n contacts.
While the glue is wet, spread the n
and engage the tab and slot areas.
Press everything together a couple
times to make sure there is a good
bond.
Make sure the ne is straight and
perpendicular as shown above.
.... and a matching medium skim coat
to the mating area of the n. Make sure
you do a left and right.
Tack up method will be used for the
side ns. Apply a medium skim coat of
Welders to the end of the Wing...
Repeat the process for the other n.
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Once the Welders has tacked up, attach
the ns to the wing tips by lining up the
bottom edges as shown.
Check the CG. Twisted Hobbys’ CG
machine shown here, but you can also
use your nger tips. CG is 6.50” from
the tip of the nose or 2.70” from the
motor mount forward.
Charge some batteries, balance some
props, double check radio program and
make sure that all the control surfaces
are going the right direction.
FPV FLIGHT CONFIGURATION
3s/600mAh Battery
Gives Good CG with light weight FPV
gear and great for FPV Action.
MOBIUS FLIGHT CONFIGURATION
3s/450mAh Battery
Gives good CG, average ight duration
and HD Video footage.
BASIC FLIGHT CONFIGURATION
3s/850mAh Battery
Gives good CG and great duration for
everyday ying.
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center of
gravity
control
throws
C.G. - 6.50” from nose of aircraft
Locate all the electronics to achieve
indicated CG point. For best
performance, balance for level ight
upright at 3/4 throttle and about 10%
to 15% elevator push when inverted.
Power off down line should be such that
it will slowly pull into level ight. This is
because the Flying Wings need some
“reex” (up elevator) for stable ight.
Extreme Flying
Ailerons - approx +/- 30 deg
Elevator - approx +/- 30 deg
Expo to suit
Beginner
Ailerons - approx +/- 10 deg
Elevator - approx +/- 10 deg
Expo to suit
FPV & Sport
Ailerons - approx +/- 15 deg
Elevator - approx +/- 15 deg
Expo to suit
In order to achieve the control throws as
described for “Extreme”, it is imperative
that the control surfaces, linkages, rod
ends, etc, all move freely over the entire
range, including range end points. Set
Absolute Travel if your radio has it.
Failure to do these things could result in
damage to either the servos or
mechanical components.
CG = 6.50”
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pre-flight & testing
Motor: Should run smoothly at all stick positions, and transition
smoothly from low to high RPM. If the motor is turning
backwards, reverse two of the three wires between the motor
and ESC. Check that the screws holding the motor to the
airframe are tight and secure.
Flight Controls: Set all to neutral or level positions with sticks
in the neutral positions. Ensure that all controls and linkages
move freely. Double check that all hinged areas are free from
rips or tears. Verify proper control surface directions. Right Roll
is – right aileron up, left aileron down, Left Roll is left aileron up
and right aileron down.
Batteries: Should be fully charged prior to each flight. Watch
tra n smi t ter b a tte r y lev el and f ollo w manu fact ures
recommendations. Motor battery should not be drained any
further than recommended by the manufacture, use a timer to
prevent an over discharged condition.
Radio: All trims should be set to neutral and throttle in the low
position. Check that rate switches and mixes are set properly.
Range Check: With and without the motor running per radio
manufactures instructions. If there is insufficient range or
significant reduction with the motor running, resolve and re-test
before flying.
The fi rst flights should be done with the CG at the
recommended position, and reduced control rates until
comfortable with your handling of the aircraft. As your
experience with the aircraft grows experiment with different CG
points and control rates. After all flights, check the aircraft over
for damage and/or other items that may adversely affect flight
performance.
This Extreme Flying Wing is a full performance aircraft and will
provide hours of entertainment, including the occasional crash.
If, as the result of a crash, the foam tears, simply glue with
Welders or CA. Many pilots prefer Welders because it remains
flexible after drying. CA however, is more suited for the “quick”
repair.
This aircraft can be flown indoors or outdoors. It is however
designed specifically outdoor flying and will be right at home in
the local park or school yard or similar sized venue.
Storage
This EPP plane should be stored upright resting on it's inboard
fins, or stored hanging from it’s prop. Storing in other fashions
that put stress on the airframe could cause the airframe to
distort. Storage in a hot car could also cause damage.
Preght Checks Flight Testing
Be safe and enjoy, thank you again for purchasing a Twisted Hobbys’ Product!
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notes and s/u Sheet
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TIPS AND TRICKS
A good building surface is drop ceiling panel from a local hardware store on a nice flat board
Use parchment paper between the areas being glued and your work surface
Heavy flat objects (like books, batteries, etc.) could be used to hold everything flat
When resetting your radio, start with all the ATV‘s or throw volumes at 100%.
Make sure you have set the direction of the servos correctly before attempting t o trim for zero position.
If possible try the servo horns in different locations to determine which position will require the least amount of
sub trim.
Installing the servo horns in thei r final location and attaching quick links to the servos may make servo
installation much easier later.
On the Orange Rx, the negative pin is the one closest to the flat side of the circuit board.
Keep a good supply of sharp knife blades handy when building a foamie airplane.
Use low temp hot glue for gluing electronics, this will allow for easy removal later if necessary. The low temp hot
glue can be “released” by painting” the glue bead wit h an alcohol soaked cotton swab a couple times.
A business card with the corners clipped off can be used as a small square.
Allowing the Welders glue to set for five minutes before assembly will shorten the tack up time, just be sure if
doing it this way that you get the parts into posit ion quickly, as the glue will start to bond on contact. Any joints
that you feel are going to require adjustment , it is best to assembly the pieces while the glue is wet. The Green
(high tack) masking tape works the best when used to clamp things together on an EPP foam airplane.
When gluing the rudder to the fuselage, stick pins could be used to ho ld in position if wanting to handle the
airframe before it is completely dry
A rotary tool with a cutting wheel could be used to produce grooves in fiber glass parts instead of coarse sand
paper. Use a hatch pattern. This creates more bonding area for the glue.
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